But first, a few tips:

1. In France, most ATM machine “keys” do not include letters, just numbers. So what to do if you’ve memorized your password as “Rosebud” and not as “9693292”? Get thee quickly to a payphone booth! Here the keys include both numbers and letters. Voilà, Super Man! This little tip saves the day every time. (More advice about ATMs in Europe.)

2. Looking for discounts? Shop during the two annual Big Sale (“Solde”) periods in either January or June. This year’s summer sales launch on Wednesday, June 27, 2012.

3. Got to shop ’til you drop on a Sunday? I recommend hoofing it to either Abbesses or the Marais, where most stores are open seven days a week. Here you’ll also find beaucoup bars, cafés and pâtisseries going full blast!

4. Check out our full list of tips to save big on shopping Paris — everything you need to know for a perfect shopping spree!

Now on to the list:

Hoof it to the Porte de Vanves flea market!

Flea Markets

Bitten by the Flea? Visit the Marché aux puces de la Porte de Vanves (14th arrondissement, Métro Porte de Vanves) or the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (18th arrondissement, Métro: Porte de Clignancourt).

Tip! The 95-bus line connects both “puces.” See this Web site for a handy 2012 listing of Paris Fleas, brocantes and vide-greniers.

Trendy (and affordable) Labels

Looking to shake up your wardrobe with a little Zara, Etam or Naf-Naf? Here’s where I go-go for my Chains of Love: Boulevard Haussmann, rue de Rennes, and rue du Commerce, along with rue de Rivoli and Champs-Elysées.

During the Big Sales, the Zara at 40 rue de Rennes usually serves as one of “last stops” for the chain’s leftover clothing.

Bargain Bins

I often find my bargain bin bliss at the Sympa shops on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart (Métro Abbesses or Anvers). Located at the foot of Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre, the stock is always cha-cha-changing. Expect Best Mountain, Etam, Naf-Naf, Sinéquanone, and Undiz but at a fraction of their original cost.

Don your elbow pads and eat a healthy breakfast. Game on! (Read more about Sympa shops in Paris.)

Vintage Clothing

Throughout in Paris, you’ll find “friperies” (secondhand clothing shops) and “depôts-ventes” (consignment shops). I’d either book it to Abbesses (Métro Abbesses, 18th arrondissement) or the Marais (Métro Saint-Paul, 4th arrondissement).

Both have deep pockets of vintage clothing shops. Le Caverne à Fripes at 25 rue Houdon in Abbesses or FREE’P’STAR at 61 rue de la Verrerie in the Marais are peek-a-boo-worthy! (Read more about vintage clothing shops in Paris.)

Funky designer shops and studios

Rocking a fairy tale vibe, the skinny rue d’Orsel (Métro Abbesses or Anvers) is lined with a row of clothing shops and studios. Their kitschy, candied-colored vitrines always stop me in my tracks. Located in the textile district, the artists here play with the full spectrum of fabrics like there’s no tomorrow.

Check out: Zélia’s Sur la Terre Comme au Ciel, Marie’s Le Boudoir de Marie, and Kitty’s Killy Grind.

Fabric

At the foot of Sacré Coeur in Montmartre (Métro Abbesses or Anvers) is where I hunt for fabric and notions. I’d kick off the quest on Rue d’Orsel (north of Metro Anvers in the 18th). Flaunting four floors of textiles, notions and baubles, both the Marché Saint Pierre on 2 rue Charles Nodier, and the Tissus Reine at 5 Place Saint-Pierre (with its fifty miniature mannequins!) are definitely worth a visit. Yes, you’ve got the notion!

Looking for African Megawax cloth? Trek it to the nearby Barbès neighborhood. Tip! Most of the fabric is precut at six meters (about 18 feet, enough for two shirts or dresses). Look for the €10 piles of cloth!

Kitchenware

WWJCD? (What would Julia Child do?) That joke never gets old! For gastromical sakes, she’d hunt the aisles of kitchen-equipment specialist E. Dehillerin! “Thunderstruck!” was her description of the heated encounter she first had there. Located at 18 Rue Coquillière (Métro: Les Halles), the centuries-old shop’s shine has not dulled the least bit.

Also, check out Julia’s photograph behind the cash register!

Tableware

When it comes to dinner parties, presentation is everything! So channel your inner Martha Stewart, and roll on over to shops along rue de Paradis (south of Métro Poissoniere, 10th arrondissement). There’s also a row of funky tableware shops along rue de Rennes (Métro: Rennes, 6th arrondissement). For the love of whimsy, all three shops are worth a pop-by: La Vaissellerie (85), Culinarion (99), and Plastiques (103). (Read more on buying kitchenware in Paris.)

Vintage Postcards

One of my favorite hunting grounds for “cartes postale ancienne” (known as CPA in the trade) is at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès) in the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt). Stocked with postcards organized by category or genre, if you’re looking for a specific category, don’t be afraid to ask! The Porte de Vanves Flea also carries them, along with vintage magazines.

Books

Also at the Clignancourt Flea, you’ll find one of my favorite bookshops. La librairie de l’Avenue is a large but still intimate bookshop, stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. After hunting at the Porte de Vanves Flea, book it to the book and prints flea market. Located at intersection of Rue Brancion and Rue Fizeau in the 15th arrondissement, the market is open Saturdays and Sundays.

Your favorite shopping spots?

Cheapos, do you have a favorite shopping district in Paris? Do spill!

Also in our guide: If you’re planning your Paris vacation and need suggestions for great affordable hotels, check out our reviews of budget hotels in Paris. All of our picks have been visited, inspected and approved by a EuroCheapo editor. Read more in our Paris guide and grab some helpful tips on where to stay during your visit.

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1. Je ne regrette rien—NOT.

Dear Musée Edith Piaf, You broke my heart. Was it really necessary to slam the door in my face back in November when I arrived at your doorstep without a set rendezvous? I’ve loved you since my first visit back in 1998, and every visit since. So what gives? Do the math. For over a decade, I’ve been sending folks your way. In this easy, breezy social media world, perhaps a new system is needed? Just asking.

Regrette rien at Anna’s music box shop.

If operations get switched up for the better, do let me know. Nothing in this world would give me more pleasure than happily spreading the word about the “little sparrow” and your collection once more. (5 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75011)

Happy alternative plays on

Yearning for a little “La Vie en Rose” to take home with you? Then trek it to Boîtes à Musique Anna Joliet. Located at the northern end of the Jardin du Palais Royal, Anna and her collection of hand-cranked music boxes have held court here for three decades. Prices start at only €8.

Looking for a specific tune? Just ask. Listen for Debussy, Chopin, and Charles Trénet, along with Mozart, Beethoven and Andrew Lloyd Webber. Yes, fellow felines, “Memory” is always in stock.

The Centre Pompidou. All that plumbing… and not one decent toilet.

2. Skip the loo—entirely.

Dear Centre Pompidou, I love you, but it’s time to clean up your act, as my grandmother Helen would quip. I’m no restroom diva, but golly gee wham—I nearly fainted during a recent visit. All that piping on the outside of the building and there’s still a problem? It makes the mind reel! Perhaps it’s time to get Point WC on the horn. After all, their restrooms at the Louvre and Printemps are state of the art and consistently spotless. It’s just a thought.

By the way, the Point WC washrooms are pretty hot. One euro gets you private seating in a water closet lit by rose-colored lights, and stocked with fluorescent toilet paper in blues, pinks, and greens. Just don’t leave your soda pop bottle behind. They will hunt you down, and give you a scolding at sink side! My-O-My, bad.

Alternative pit stop

Cheapos, if you plan to visit the Centre Pompidou, pick your potty spot prior to your arrival. Or run nearby to the grand washrooms at the BHV department store (Bazaar de l’Hotel de Ville), which also boasts one of my pet views of Paris. It’s a straight shot down rue du Renard. Make a left at rue Rivoli. It’s also definitely worth the wait (or trot)!

So what’s red hot? Follow my lead!

Farewell, Sympa.

1. Sympa

Due to a recent fire, two of my favorite Sympa shops have closed. Located at the historic “Bal de l’Elysée Montmartre,” this is where Can Can starlet (and muse of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec) La Goulue got her start before joining the Moulin Rouge.

I nearly cried when I spotted the damage. Confession: I did cry. Its façade is still a beauty, on the outside at least. I’ll keep you posted on any future reconstruction work.

In the meantime, the Sympa bargain bins on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart are still overflowing with tremendous deals.

Wendy at the Starbucks kitty-corner to the Moulin Rouge.

2. Starbucks

Café Royalists, look away because you’re going to hate this tip. During my sister Wen’s recent trip to Paris, the Starbucks at Place Blanche is where she picked up her morning coffee.

Located kitty-corner to the Moulin Rouge, the place was bustling, but by the end of her week-long visit, the amiable staff not only knew her name, but also her standard “Café Latte skim” order. Did they make fun of her French? I don’t think so!

Inside and out, the jaunty joint was packed with locals, not tourists, by the way. Don’t hate me because I’m truthful.

Pumped and ready at Minutit moins 7.

3. Minuit moins 7

And speaking of red hot steals, I recently scored a pair of Christian Louboutin kitten heels at a flea market for just €15. They’re real and they’re spectacular. Except for the soles, the black leather shoes were in perfect condition.

So what to do? I took them to the Minuit moins 7 for a much-needed official red resoling. Located in the historic passage Véro-Dodat, the repair will cost just €20. Also, this is where Monsieur Louboutin takes his very own shoes. Ask about their signature homemade (and affordable) shoe polish.

“Gaz à les étages around 1880” at the Bibliothèque Forney

4. Bibliothèque Forney

While strolling about in the Marais, I stumbled upon the “Gaz à tous les étages” exhibition at the Bibliothèque Forney in the Hotel de Sens (1 rue du Figuier, 75004). It’s definitely worth a pop in. Named as a nod to the little blue enamel signs that can still be spotted on buildings throughout the City of Light (“All floors have gas”—a 19th century boasting), the exhibit recounts the brilliant history of gas in Paris.

Highlights include antique lighting and cooking equipment, gas company uniforms, and a stellar collection of advertising posters along with a 1920s kitchen and hair salon, an Art Nouveau bathroom, and Frédéric Kastner’s weirdly entrancing gas organ. It’s a looker, and one of only two in the world. “Gaz à tous” will stay on through January 28, 2012.

Happy New Year, Cheapos!

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According to my movie producer pal, George, the world boils down to two basic categories: the best and the worst. Anything in between isn’t worth talking about. Mediocrity is a crime, he often quips. As you can well imagine, his dinner parties in Paris are always quite lively, dramatic and informative.

So as a nod to my opinionated crony, I’ve decided to round out 2011 with a list of my favorite Paris-related music, movies and books. By George, this one is for you, Cheapos.

Without further adieu, here’s my Ab Fab, crème de la crème raves. Envelope, please!

Best Music Video
“Someone Like You” by Adele

Adele pont-ificates on Pont Alexandre III. Click to watch the video.

Shot in black and white by director Jake Nava, Adele’s “Someone Like You” video is an epic weepie. Both Adele and the Pont Alexandre III have never looked more gorgeous. Try watching this moody-bluesy breakup song without crying, singing along, and then hitting repeat. I’ve tried but no can do. In the video, your eye will spy the Eiffel Tower, the Grand Palais, Les Invalides and the Place de la Concorde.

Tip: Admire Adele’s trench coat in black with its sassy asymmetrical zipper? I do, too. The military-inspired garb was created for Moschino’s 2010 runway collection. Bittersweet, they’re no longer available. So what to do? In Montmartre, the Sympa bargain bin shops are now pushing funky trench coats for just €5. Rebounding just got easier (and cheaper!).

Charlie Winston dans le Metro. Click to watch the video.

Bonus tracks: I also enjoyed charming Charlie Winston’s terribly infectious “Like a Hobo” video, shot in the Abbesses Métro station. Hello, Charlie, goodbye heart!

Best Song
“I’m Throwing My Arms Around Paris” by Morrissey

Moving on to a more upbeat breakup song (at least musically!), “I’m Throwing My Arms Around Paris” caught my ear earlier this year around St. Valentine’s Day. Penned by Morrissey and Boz Boorer, how did I miss this catchy tune when it was released back in 2009? Your bet is as good as mine. An ode to Oscar Wilde, it has not left my playlist, and probably never will. Yes, I’ve made myself plain. I’ve made myself very plain.

The Importance of Cleaning Earnest: Wilde’s grave is closed for repairs.

Tip: And speaking of dashing Wilde, his grave at Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is temporarily indisposed. Shrouded in blue plastic, the memorial sculpture is undergoing a scrubbing because through the years, incurable romantics have gone wild romancing the stone with lipstick prints, and their chemicals have started to take a toll. Work will take place until spring 2012.

Still, there’s plenty to see here inside the cemetery gates. Visit Chopin, Modigliani and Proust, along with crooners like Edith Piaf and Jim Morrison.

Best Movie
“Midnight in Paris”

Yes, Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris” film was a tad hokey pokey in places, but I fell gladly for it. But that’s how I roll down the cobblestones in Paris, in my new bobbed hairdo, inspired by Marion Cotillard’s flapper character in the flick. Fantasizing about time travel now makes my heart swell. Larger than life, Yves Heck as Cole Porter was simply divine. Why, why do I love Paris? (Because it sizzles anytime of the year.)

Take a spin on the Musee des Arts Forains bicycle carousel.

Bonus tracks: This year, I also enjoyed PBS’s “The Luminous Years” documentary and Nora Ephron’s “Julie and Julia” film from 2010. Both are worth a checkout.

Top Tip: You, too, can ride the amazing bicycle carousel featured in “Midnight in Paris.” Just reserve a tour of the Musée des Arts Forains (the museum of carnival art) by emailing: diane@pavillons-de-bercy.com. The entire museum is one of the most amazing, unsung sites in Paris.

This magical place is located near the Les Pavillons de Bercy at 53 avenue des Terroirs de France (12th arrondissement). Unlike most museums, they allow visitors to play with the items on display. No white gloves needed! If you plan to visit Paris in 2012, don’t miss it. Holy, moly—it’s bucket list-worthy.

Best Books

I have more than a slew of them up my sleeve. As one of the Paris Correspondents at EuroCheapo, I’m always on the hunt for research books about France. Here are my favorite reads from the year. Some are old and some are new. All were fabulous and of great, great use.

“A Moveable Feast: The Restored Edition,” by Ernest Hemingway, Sean Hemingway and Patrick Hemingway (2010)

“Paris Without End: The True Story of Hemingway’s First Wife,” by Gioia Diliberto (2011)

“Paris: The Secret History,” by Andrew Hussey (2008)

“Paris: Journey into the City of Light,” by David Downie and Diane Johnson (2011)

“The Greater Journey: American in Paris,” by David G. McCullough (2011)

“Memoirs of the Court of Marie Antoinette, Queen of France, Complete,” Historic Memoirs of Madam Campan (2010)

“What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution,” by Caroline Weber (2007)

Your movie, book and music picks?

Cheapos, do you have any music, film or book recommendations? Do share! Leave your recommendations in the comments box below. Happy Holidays!

Also in our guide: Heading to Paris anytime soon? Our editors have hunted down the city’s best affordable hotels, all centrally located and clean. We visit, inspect, photograph and choose the best. Read our reviews in our Paris guide. Bon voyage!

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What do you like? Study the billboards!

But first things first, let’s prepare for our voluptuous quest. Looking for discounts? Schedule your trip during either the big January or July sale periods. Also, know your European size numbers. Upon your arrival, start looking for lingerie billboards. It’s an easy, breezy way to figure out what you like and don’t like. Plus, it’s free.

So without further ado, here are six of my favorite hunting grounds for lingerie. From the grand magasins to the bargain bins of Montmartre, all budgets are covered here. Plus, I’ve asked a few of my Parisian friends to drop the names of their pet brands and shops, along with a few tips.

1. Department stores

Shake the jetlag blues away with a little browsing at Galeries Lafayette. Its entire third floor, a.k.a. “Seductive Fashion” is dedicated to lingerie and hosiery, and yes, it’s got the goods to back up its name. With a dazzling slew of French brands, you’ll be able to cover a lot of ground without a great deal of wear’n’tear on your heels. I personally like shopping here because the no-pressure staff gives me space to browse and dream.

More “Seductive Fashion” at Galeries Lafayette.

Every once in a while, I’ll treat myself to an exquisite piece by century–old Aubade and Galeries Lafayette’s very own alluring house brand. Here you’ll also find Erès—my friend Anne’s favorite brand. “Cozy,” is how the discerning book designer succinctly described her decades-old French staple. Erès’ bathing suits also boast all-natural construction. You won’t find any uncomfortable high wire acts here, Cheapos.

2. Old-school lingerie shops

Are you in need of individual attention or a bra fitting? Well then, trek it to one of the independently owned lingerie and hosiery shops. My former beau (and now my husband) purchases special little sweet-nothing gifts at the Corsetry boutique Claverie at 234 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, near Metro Louis-Blanc.

In business since 1860, Josephine Baker and Mistinguett are just a few of the starlets who frequented the former corset showroom. Art Nouveau stained glass and curved staircases abound! These small classic French institutions are slowly becoming extinct, so while the sheer fun of it lasts, take a browse!

Etam at the former La Samaritaine department store

3. Chain, chain, chain

Trendy French chains also stock tantalizing collections. Musician Cat Masson didn’t miss a beat when I quizzed her about her favorite lingerie lines. “I love Etam and Oysho, too! Princesse Tam Tam is really nice—a little pricy but worth it! Here’s my secret. After I wash them in the machine inside a little lingerie bag at 30 to 40 degrees maximum, I hang them until they’re dry. Don’t forget the bag! They’ll last longer.”

4. Like Target?

Well, then you’ll love its French cousin Monoprix. Affordable and hip, the trusty chain also commissions designers to create their collections. My clothes designer friend Ghislaine swears by Monoprix’s house brand of lingerie. “It’s affordable and good quality. And pretty too! Some I have had for ages! So long that the tags have become unreadable.”

Rue de Rennes is a prime Cheapo hunting ground for lingerie. Here the brands to spy for are Monoprix (50), Valege (146) and Darjeeling (152), along with Cat’s picks: Etam (135-139), and Princesse Tam Tam at 53 rue Bonaparte, located just a hop, slip and jump from the Rennes Metro stop.

Dig in at Sympa in Montmartre.

5. Bargain bin bliss

And squeaking of historic buildings, don’t leave Paris without experiencing the bargain bins of Sympa at 62 Boulevard de Rochechouart. A Cheapo haven, it now occupies a part of “le bal de l’Elysée Montmartre,” where the famed Can Can star (and favorite muse of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec) La Goulue made her racy debut!

Here at Sympa, Etam, Petit Bateau, and Unzies sit pretty on the outside, while Chantelle and Huit hold court inside. My book editor friend Annelise recommends Petit Bateau. A century-old institution, she said, “For me, the “touch” of the clothes is pure cotton, simple looks, and a sweet taste of childhood.”

Shhhh. Secrets Pigalle in Pigalle.

6. Pigalle

Located near Sympa you’ll find the shops of Pigalle. Whether you’re in the market for false eyelashes, custom-made corsets, or Nancy Sinatra-worthy go-go latex boots, they’ve got you covered both night and day. I’d kick off my search at either Secrets Pigalle on 62 Boulevard de Clichy or Rebecca Rils at 76 Boulevard de Clichy. Kitty corner to the pair of shops is the Moulin Rouge. There are lots of distractions, so look both ways before crossing!

Cheapos, do you have a favorite lingerie shop in Paris?

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Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché

So fire up your printers, Cheapos! Here’s the agenda for the first day of our shop ’til you drop campaign of Napoleonic proportions!

Tips

Do pack one oversized bag for your goods. While the multiple-shopping bag scene with Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman” is charming and all, you’re just inviting advances from pickpockets. Most grocery store chains sell durable large bags for just a few cents. Franprix’s current model was inspired by Mondrian!

Also, for the love of saving both time and money, purchase your Metro tickets by the “carnet” (10-pack) before you set out.

Galeries Lafayette’s dome

10:00 a.m.: Abbesses
Metro: Abbesses, line 12

After a short run around the Sacré Coeur ’hood to help Wen shake the jet lag blues, we headed to Sympa for some bargain bin shopping. This string of shops runs along rue de Steinkerque, a street once notorious for its brothels and dance halls. (Picasso shopped here!)

On this day we were able to score some slinky black tops by Carling, each costing €2.99 a pop! Confession: I bought twelve, and my sister purchased nine. Heads-up: Etam’s frilly spring 2011 line of lingerie is currently on sale for just a few euros apiece!

11:00 a.m.: 140 bis, rue de Rennes
Metro: Rennes, line 12

We then soared to Zara at the Félix Potin building (an Art Nouveau masterpiece) on the bustling rue de Rennes. It’s a pet Zara hot spot because the location usually serves as one of last stops for the chain’s leftover winter clothing sales.

Commes des Garcons’ exhibit at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile

Here my sister scooped up a classic belted trench coat, along with seven cap-sleeved turtle necks, all costing just €3.99 a piece. By this victorious moment, the woozy feeling of jet lag had completely abandoned the scene. Yes, sometimes fleeting joy CAN be bought!

12 noon: Bon Marché
Metro: Sevres-Babylone, line 12

After grabbing soda pops just outside the Rennes metro stop, we fast-trekked to the Christian Dior exhibition at Bon Marché. Decked out in Dior’s beloved white and grey, the exhibit was made up of iconic “New Look” ensembles, photographs, and super hip multimedia projections on oversized accessories like chairs, mannequins and hat boxes. After a few spins around the gallery, we snagged a few sweets at the Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché, which is just behind the main building.

Wendy’s new coat

Please note: the Dior exhibit closes March 26, 2011, so if you’re in Paris now, hotfoot it there right away. Not in Paris? Fret not, because the department store often coordinates free exhibits. There will be more to come!

1:30 p.m.: Carrousel du Louvre
Metro: Louvre Rivoli, line 1

Feeling the sugar rush, we raced to the “Les années 1900-2000” exhibition at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile. Our favorite showstoppers included Jean Paul Gaultier’s plumes, Junya Watanabe’s unstoppable bustles, and Comme des Garcons’ bulges in all the wrong places.

Afterwards, we had a wonderful, marvelous photo-op at the Arc-de-Triomphe du Carrousel. Film buffs, this is where the iconic balloon scene in “Funny Face” with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire was shot. ‘S Marvelous!

3:30 p.m.: Samaritaine at Pont Neuf
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

Spotting a few dramatic-looking rain clouds heading our way, we made a joint decision to promenade swiftly down rue de Rivoli to Zara’s other “last stop” for sale items, located in the former Samaritaine department store at Chatêlet.

After ogling its spectacular exterior, we nipped into Zara where Wen picked up a few more turtlenecks (Can you ever have enough? I don’t think so!), and I scored a fur-lined vest and a thick green felt dress, both costing just €6.

4:30 p.m.: Pont Neuf and Saint Germain
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

We then made our way to the Pont Neuf to pay homage to King Henri IV (a.k.a. “Le Vert Galant”), and yes, to check out his boots. Green with envy and fatigue, we slowly crept across the bridge, limping toward Saint Germain des Prés.

The dapper monarch’s benediction must have been with us because in no time at all we found ourselves seated in a cozy boutique, surrounded by hundreds of boots, all on sale. The proprietor was extremely personable, helping my sister find the boots of her dreams. The boots? On Sale. The Cendrillon (Cinderella) experience? Priceless.

View from the flat at l’heure bleu

6:00 p.m.: Boulevard Haussmann
Metro: Havre-Caumartin, line 7

Losing both daylight and any remaining feeling in our feet (or “dogs” as my grandmother Wentz would say), we ended our whirlwind day trip by paying a call on those Belle Époque beauties, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on Boulevard Haussmann.

After an ogle and a gaze at GL’s amazing dome, we stopped by its gourmet shop, where we loaded up with bread, Cantal cheese, and a bottle of crisp white Cheverny. Then we slowly hobbled back to Saint-Lazare, where we caught line 12 back to Abbesses, just in time for l’heure bleu (twilight), more sister bonding, and planning for the next day!

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