Claim to fame: Karlovy Vary

The famous Czech spa at Karlovy Vary (often styled as Carlsbad or Karlsbad in older travel literature) traces its origins back to the 14th century, and the curative properties of the thermal springs have underpinned a healthy spa trade ever since. Peter the Great twice came to Karlovy Vary (in 1711 and 1712), and a steady stream of Romanovs and other well-connected Russians followed in his wake. Grand Duchess Elena Pavlovna of Russia visited no less than seven times.

Royal backing

A handful of spa communities claim to predate Karlovy Vary. One of the most interesting is Bardejovské Kúpele which lies in the hills of northern Slovakia. It was by all accounts commended by the Hungarian royals as early as the mid-13th century. Bardejovské Kúpele has pulled its share of titled visitors too, even including a Russian czar. Alexander I visited in 1821, taking time out to consult local doctors over his health. The spa at Bardejov was in the premier league of European spas in the 18th and 19th centuries, regularly attracting clients from the most distinguished families of Poland and Hungary.

The Hotel Ozon at Bardejovské Kúpele where wine is cheaper than water. Photo: © hidden europe

Staying at Bardejovské Kúpele

Today Bardejovské Kúpele has slipped slightly below the horizon, although its merits are still very much recognised among the Slovakian and Russian guests who make time for a cure at Bardejov. It has all the appeal of more celebrated spas (like that at Karlovy Vary), but without the crowds. We spent a weekend last month at Bardejovské Kúpele, and it was an excellent short break.

All traditional spas have an other-worldly quality, and Bardejovské Kúpele captures that to perfection. The classic spa town offers a retreat from the realities and stresses of everyday life, and the location of Bardejovské Kúpele assists in that quest. It is tucked away in a side valley that drains down into the River Kamenec. The city of Bardejov, which boasts a fabulous town square, is just ten minutes away from the spa by regular local bus. But to take the bus from Bardejov up to the spa is to move between two worlds. One trades in modern Slovakia and the pressures of life for a quieter, simpler world: one where the tempo is notably slower.

Treatments and facilities

There is no noise of traffic, but just the church bells and birdsong. There are well-marked walks through the hills, the rhythm of spa life and hushed conversations in long corridors. It is an oasis of peace. Ten different mineral springs are the spa’s key asset and, water therapies aside, a wide range of other treatments are on offer: from peat wraps to phototherapy. And all this comes at a fraction of the prices prevailing at a new generation of posh resorts in western Europe that play the spa card.

The competitive pricing extends across the full range of facilities. We stayed at the Hotel Ozon, where a glass of wine with dinner costs less than one euro. You can splash out and buy a whole bottle for five euros.

In the skanzen at Bardejovské Kúpele. Photo: © hidden europe

A bonus surprise

Bardejovské Kúpele has one thing that you’ll not find in other spas. It has an outdoor museum (locally known as a skanzen) with a very fine collection of buildings from the Carpathian region. It includes churches, farm buildings and houses that together showcase the range of local vernacular architecture. The skanzen buildings are mainly constructed of wood—a material so wholesome, so brimming with virtue, that it just adds to the feel-good factor that surrounds life at Bardejovské Kúpele.

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Related story: Where to go swimming in Berlin

This is perhaps nowhere more true that in Berlin’s hamams, or Turkish-style baths, where the doldrums of winter are sloughed off like so much old skin under silk gloves in the warm, moist air and congenial atmosphere. Berlin offers two such bathhouses to refresh both body and spirit.

Sultan Hamam

For both men and women, Sultan Hamam is the only option. Open from noon to 11 p.m. daily, for men only on Mondays only, women from 9:30 a.m. Tuesday-Saturday, and families (with bathing suits) Sundays.

It is possible to book the traditional kese and sabunlama treatments, as well as massages and cosmetic treatments from facials to pedicures. You can also rent towels and bath shoes for a small additional fee. Located in a warehouse side entrance just a short distance from U2-Bülowstr. Or S1/S2/S25-Yorckstr. Entrance €16 for three hours, €21 for five hours.

Women-only hamam

Women also have the option of visiting Germany’s first Hamam, located in the women’s center Schokoladenfabrik. Open until 11 p.m. from 3 p.m. Mondays, noon Tuesday-Sunday; Thursdays are the only days children are also allowed to visit. Bathing suits not recommended.

Here you will find a similar array of services on offer, including the opportunity to rent or buy any necessary items. Located in the heart of Kreuzberg, a short distance from U1/U8-Kottbuser Tor. Entrance €16 for three hours, €11 between 12-14 Thursdays.

Treatments or massages are only possible in combination with a hamam visit, and booking by telephone in advance is highly recommended. Contact information for each hamam is easily located on their websites (linked above).

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The only thing that lets Menorca down when it comes to being Cheapo-friendly are the flight prices. I was traveling from London and could easily have been swayed to book flights to other more popular Spanish sun-soaked destinations for half the price, but I stuck to my guns and paid £150 on return flights to Menorca’s capital, Mahon.

Where to sleep

When it comes to accommodation, there are a lot of different options across the island, but the north is the least touristy area. I opted for a pretty whitewashed apartment in the small resort of Son Parc. An apartment with two double bedrooms here—complete with terrace—will set you back around £350 per week and sleeps up to four people (just £87 per person per week), with access to a communal pool, fantastic views and the stunning Son Saura beach just a five minute walk away. Alternatively, you can opt for the Son Parc Hotel from around £47 per room per night, based on two sharing.

The one thing worth investing in, especially if you’re staying in the north of the island, is a rental car. I paid £120 for a week between four people with BK Rent a Car.

Explore the cities and beaches of Menorca and you’ll find some picturesque spots like this one.

Eating and drinking

Menorca, in addition to great cheap sleeps, offers tasty local food at low prices—if you know when, where and what to eat. Here are some tips:

Hit the supermarket for breakfast and dinner

If you decide to hire an apartment, you should stock up on tasty breakfasts and barbecue dinners from Mercadona near the airport. The supermarket in Son Parc is useful for the essentials, but you’ll get much better value elsewhere. Then, make like the locals and eat out at lunch, when you can enjoy some delicious Menus del Día (three course menus) for as little as €10 per person. This is definitely the best way to enjoy the local produce for less.

Charming lunches in Ciutadella and Fornells

The city of Ciutadella is not to be missed. Get lost in the rabbit warren of tiny streets, drink some traditional pomada (Menorcan gin with lemon) in a pretty plaza, or lap up the atmosphere (and the fancy yachts) along the waterfront. Most of the restaurants along here serve typical fare with menus at similar prices—a slightly inflated €15 for three courses—but the fantastic view is more than worth the extra few euros.

Fornells, in the north of the island, also makes for a tasty lunch stop. The seafront is lined with restaurants boasting identical menus, all vying for the visitor’s attention and you can get a three-course lunch for €10-€12 along here with no difficulty at all. Sa Rumbada was my personal favorite; the stuffed aubergines and grilled hake were especially good. Walk off lunch with a brisk stroll up to Fornells Tower, where you’ll enjoy fantastic views of the town and the coastline.

The Menorcan dish Arroz Caldoso de Marisco is a perfect—and Cheapo—taste of the island. Help yourself!

Cheapo meal tip

Caldereta de Langosta (Lobster Stew) is Menorca’s most traditional dish, but the prices can be astronomical. Equally tasty is a hearty pot of Arroz Caldoso de Marisco—rice and lashings of seafood cooked slowly in a delicious sauce for a fraction of the price.

Don’t forget about wine!

Menorcan’s are also very proud of their locally produced vinos, so stop by Binifadet Bodega and Restaurant for a really informative tour and the chance to taste a few different wines. The tours run every day until 7 p.m. and they’re completely free— though the wine is so good you may find it hard to leave without buying a bottle or two!

Free spa treatments

Yes, that’s right Cheapos, get down to Cala Cavalleria and take a right when you get to the beach to access the natural mud baths. The kind of clay skin treatment that other destinations charge hefty entrance fees for, is here free to “do it yourself.” You’ll see plenty of other people sunning themselves while caked in the purifying goodness of Menorca’s red clay. Cover your skin evenly and let it dry for around 15 minutes before washing it all off in the sea for incredibly soft skin.

Megalithic Monuments

Menorca is scattered with over 2,000 megalithic monuments, the smaller of which you can often visit for free, while the larger sites don’t charge more than €3.50 per person. Erected in the Bronze Age, these towering stones punctuate the landscape, standing tall and proud on hilltops.

There are several different types of monuments. The Navetes were used as burial chambers, while nobody is 100% sure of the meaning behind The Talaiots, the most impressive of which are the Taules. These enormous T-shaped stone structures leave you gasping in disbelief at how on earth it was possible to position one stone on top of the other. They are normally surrounded by smaller stones believed to have been for deities or offerings but the meaning behind the Taules themselves is still disputed.

With more beaches than Ibiza and Mallorca put together, excellent value food and accommodation, intriguing cities and free or very cheap cultural offerings, Menorca really did turn out to be a Cheapo summer paradise. I can’t recommend it highly enough.

For more information on Menorca, visit the Menorca Tourist Office.  If you have any questions about Menorca or anything else, feel free to post them on the comments board below.

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Although I do have access to a car, I often take day trips by train, and La Garriga, located about a 40-minutes ride north of Barcelona, is one of my “top five” when it comes to a weekend or day trip getaway from the Catalan Capital. Here’s why:

1. The Hot Springs

The main draw for city folk to La Garriga is its natural springs. There are two that offer soaking options and treatments in four- and five-star facilities.

I stayed at the Blancafort and very much recommend it. While I opted for a package deal and stayed two luxurious nights, one can also just pop in for the afternoon. A two-hour soak in their Terma Romana pools costs €32 and includes hot tea in the chill-out area, as well as access to several indoor pools with waterworks and to the outdoor heated and cold pools. The Blancafort also offers up a tempting massage menu, but the rates are steep at €47 for 25 minutes.

Fresh air and hiking in Montseny park. Photo: Stvcr

The other thermal spring spa in town is Termes La Garriga, which is smaller and more classical in style than Blancafort. Both spas are in the center of the village and an effortless walk from the train.

2. The “Modernista” homes

Along La Garriga’s main drag, El Passieg, there are numerous “Modenista” (think Art Noveau) homes that were built as summer residences for the wealthy in the late 19th and early 20th century. Some of these are well-kept and extravagant, while others look like they might be haunted (or at least inhabited by mice and bats).

All of them are interesting, and most have little plaques explaining their histories. Follow “Villa Termal y de Veraneo,” a self-guided tour through town that is marked by said plaques and outlined in detail here.

There are also formal guided tours offered each month, but these may be in Catalan or Spanish, so it’s best to ask ahead of time. Visit La Garriga’s Web site for more tour information.

3. Montseny

The mountains surrounding La Garriga are part of Montseny, a protected park. This means that wherever you look in the village you see green and forest in the distance. (Wherever I look in Barcelona I see concrete, so the views in La Garriga were extra refreshing.)

Many trails into Montseny leave from La Garriga, so those who stay the night or come early in the day could easily fit in some hiking (and then hit the springs!).

4. The Saturday market

You’ll find markets in lots of places around Catalonia, and certainly Barcelona has many of its own Saturday markets. Still, the produce tasted fresher from the market in La Garriga than my normal Barcelona mercado‘s offerings. Maybe it was the clean mountain air that made the difference?

Set in the center of the village, in several squares around the church, the market runs from 7 a.m. until 2 p.m. every Saturday. This is the spot to pick up a jar of local honey, some cheese or sausage from Vic, or even inexpensive clothing items. (I snagged a couple of colorful spring scarves!)

For such a small town, La Garriga has a lot going for it. The village itself is pretty, with a cobblestoned strip filled with boutiques and cafés running through the middle of it. There seemed to be a lack of restaurants in the town, but we did find a couple that were reasonably priced. Of course, both of the hotel/spas also have eateries.

For more information about La Garriga, check out the city’s Web site.

The post Barcelona: 4 reasons to take a day trip to La Garriga appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Hints of Italy

Menton hints of Italy even before you cross the border, with its bilingual street names and Italian-style architecture. Curiously, the town only became French in 1860, having historically been part of Monaco until in 1848 it seceded from the Principality in a spat over taxes on lemon exports. Menton then enjoyed a brief fling as an independent republic before throwing in its lot with the Kingdom of Sardinia and eventually joining France.

Mentonasques are quick to remind visitors even today that Menton is in France merely by choice, and the town’s window shutters in that distinctive Ligurian green are a reminder that this most Italianate of French Riviera towns still has a part of its heart in Italy.

Menton’s health resort history

Climb up to the cemetery high above the Old Town and you will quickly discover how Menton established its credentials in Riviera tourism. A hundred years ago, Menton was one of Europe’s premier health resorts, with thousands of northern Europeans taking their bronchial bacilli to sunny Menton to try and rid their lungs of tuberculosis. The crowded cemetery, full of those who died of consumption, attests to the fact that a few months of indolence in Menton did not always guarantee recuperation. Russians, Germans, English and Irish share the same burial ground, all victims of a disease that indiscriminately struck down poets and philosophers, counts and colonels.

The pulmonary pilgrims of yesterday have been replaced by a new generation of traveler, often anxious to find the quieter side of the Riviera. Menton is always a great stopover on routes from Provence to Genoa —made easy by the frequency of trains along this stretch of coast. Both westbound towards Nice and eastbound into Italy, trains generally run twice hourly.

Exploring the town

But with direct daily TGV services from Paris (and a useful direct overnight train, too), Menton is a place worth visiting in its own right. Our best Menton days have involved nothing more demanding than wandering around the produce stalls in the Moorish market on the waterfront and then drifting from café to café.

Our favorite local curiosity is the “salle de mariage” (wedding hall) in Menton’s City Hall, which is a striking piece of interior design by French artist and film director Jean Cocteau. Further afield, the attractive mountain town of Sospel is reached by direct bus from Menton. And the stunning Giardini Botanici Hanbury (Hanbury Gardens), just over the border in Italy, which we featured last year on EuroCheapo, are only four miles east of the city.

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Each day, more than 350,000 cubic meters of hot water gushes to the surface of Buda and Pest. Thanks to government subsidies, admission fees to the city’s spectacular spas are surprisingly reasonable. The following list includes not necessarily the cheapest baths in town, but, from our own experience, the most picturesque and memorable.

As per local tradition, all baths offer multiple services at various prices. For the sake of clarity, we have listed only standard day-pass prices. Be sure to check bath schedules upon your arrival into Budapest, as most offer half-price days and “happy hours” and some designate entire days as male only or female only. Note that the Budapest Card offers 10 percent discounts to all baths listed below. Also, offering a refund for visits of less than two hours is a standard practice. So, be sure to store your receipt in a dry place before jumping into the deep end.

Lukacs Baths
Location: Frankel Leo út 25-27., II. district, Buda, bus 6, 86
Tel: (+36 1) 326 1695
Open: Mon-Sun, 6:00 a.m.- 8:00 p.m.
Cost:  HUF 2,800 (about $15) on weekdays and HUF 2,900 on weekends

Opened in 1894, the Neo-Classical Lukacs Baths are located north of the castle in Buda, along the Danube. Visitors wade in the two outdoor swimming pools, get knocked around in the powerful Csaszar whirlpool and heat up in the jacuzzi. A marble tablet in the courtyard is etched with praises of visitors from all over the world.

Be sure to bring a swimming hat for the main pool, as they are required and rentals are pricey. A drinking hall, built in 1937, provides sulphurous water (thought to help digestion).

Gellert Baths
Location: Kelenhegyi út 4., XI. district, Buda, trams 47, 49, 18
Tel: (+36 1) 466 61 66
Open: Mon-Sun, 6:00 a.m.-8:00 p.m.
Cost: HUF 3,500 (about $18) on weekdays and HUF 3,600 on weekends

The baths within the Gellert Hotel complex are housed inside and outside of a spectacular building at the foot of Gellert Hill. Non-bathers stop by to meditate on the craftsmanship of the tile-and-glass ceiling.

This maze of single-sex thermal baths and plunge pools opened in 1927. The wave machine is always a crowd-pleaser, and massage and therapy services are available as well. (Don’t get the steam bath confused with the sauna!) There’s even a salon on-site.

Szechenyi Baths
Location: Állatkerti Körút 11., City Park, XIV. district, trolley bus 72
Tel: (+36 1) 363 3210
Open: Mon-Sun, 6:00 a.m.-10 p.m.
Cost: HUF 3,400 (about $17) weekdays and HUF 3,500 on weekends

The Szechenyi Bath, located in City Park near the Budapest Zoo, is one of the largest spa complexes in Europe. Built in 1913, the bright yellow Neo-Baroque building recalls the Habsburg era. Pools and services runneth over inside the Szechenyi complex, and water gushes out into multiple whirlpools from 1,250 meters below ground.

When we last visited, we enjoyed three of the 15 different pools and multiple sauna rooms. We also got a kick out of the power whirlpool, which spins visitors effortlessly around a spraying fountain. Massage treatments and aquatic aerobics classes are available. A bar serves light snacks and locals like to play games on floating chess boards.

Rudas Baths
Location: Döbrentei tér 9., Buda, Erzsébet Bridge, I. district, tram 18, bus 7, 7a
Tel: (+36 1) 356 1322
For men: Mon, Wed, Thur, Fri: 6:00 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat-Sun: 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.
For women: Tue: 6:00 a.m.-8:00 p.m.
Both Sexes (bathing suit is compulsory): Fri: 10.00-4.00, Sat: 6.00-20.00, 22.00-4.00, Sun: 6.00-20.00
Cost: HUF 2,100 (about $11) weekdays and HUF 2,200 on weekends

For a traditional Turkish bath experience, head over to the Rudas Bath in Buda, along the Danube. Sokoli Mustafa Pasha rebuilt this bath in 1566 and the traditional architecture still shines. A marble staircase leads into a dome-topped, octagonal thermal pool. Shafts of sunlight shine through the stained-glass cupola to create a gorgeous spectrum of colors.

Smaller pools surround the main dome, and range in temperature from icy cold to red hot. No swimsuits are allowed at the traditional complex (open to men on most weekdays and to women on Tuesdays). Medicinal waters are available to drink for an extra fee and the second floor houses a physiotherapy department.

Palatinus Strand
Location: Margitsziget, XIII. district, bus 26
Open: May to mid-Aug daily 9:00 a.m.-7:00 p.m. Last entry at 6:00 p.m.
Cost: HUF 1,800 (about $10) to HUF 2,200 with locker (adults), HUF200 (children)

Guests love the family-friendly atmosphere at the Palatinus Strand waterpark on the gorgeous Margaret Island, in between Buda and Pest. The complex is full of thermal springs gestating into three of the park’s 11 pools. A wave pool and a water slide with multiple tubes are favorites with the young at heart. Ping pong tables, pool tables and trampolines add variety and multiple snack bars provide nourishment. The Palatinus Strand is surrounded by playgrounds and parkland.

More information

For more information on the city’s bath scene, check out the Budapest Tourism Office’s article on the city’s baths, with videos and links to special events (including discos and bubble parties!).

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EC: What’s the one thing you simply can’t leave Budapest without doing?

Budapest has a number of must-sees, but you simply cannot go home until you’ve been to Castle Hill and taken a dip in the thermal spas. The best of the spas for mixed groups is the Széchenyi. The others are for men only or women only depending on the day of the week. The Rudas baths are “women only” on Tuesdays and men on all other days.

EC: Where can I get a cheap and delicious meal in Budapest?

The best choice is Koleves Vendeglo (Stone Soup Guest Restaurant at Kazinczy u. 35, District 7). It is run by young Hungarians who have combined the visual appeal of the restaurant with excellent food and at reasonable prices. Another excellent option is the Old Amsterdam at Királyi Pál u. 14 (District 9) where, in spite of the name, the cuisine is definitively Hungarian. Reservations are recommended for both.

Also, for really cheap and good meals, but without any atmosphere, head over to Frici Papa located in District 5 (Király u. 55). Go for an early dinner as they run out of choices by 7 PM.

For more restaurant tips, check out Dr. James’ picks here.

EC: What’s your favorite FREE or cheap thing to do in Budapest?

My favorite free thing to do in Budapest is to roam Margaret Island. The island, “Margit” in Hungarian, is an oasis in the city. It consists mainly of a park with plenty of space for walking, jogging, and biking. On the island, tourists can see the former home of Princess Margit, the remains of a convent where she was sent by her Father King Bela.

EC: What’s your best-kept Budapest secret?

It’s a museum that most tourists never find out about. The Miksa Roth Memorial House has a splendid collection of the stained glass and mosaics by the famous Hungarian artist who has had his work commissioned around the world. He is known for developing the technique of painting on glass. The museum is located at Nefelejc u. 26 (District 7), but it does not open until 2 PM and it’s closed on Mondays.

But, the real local secret – something even many locals are not aware of – are the “Stumble Stones” placed around the city. At various points, you will unexpectedly come across a gold square in the sidewalk. Inscribed within the square is a person’s name, the address where you are standing, the person’s former occupation, and dates.

These “stones” are remembrances poised in front of the last known residence of someone who was taken away and executed during the Holocaust. Only those with no known living relatives qualify for a stone, insuring that they are not forgotten. The dates on the stone are their birth and the date of execution.  Some stones are in front of empty lots where a building once existed, but is no longer. Stones have been placed on Raday u. (District 3) and Dohanyi u. (District 2) so far, but more will be added as donations are made.

About our contributor: Dr. Ryan James is the author of Frommer’s Budapest and the Best of Hungary (7th edition) and runs BudaBaB, a bed and breakfast in Budapest. Doubles at the BudaBaB run from €45-55.

The post Budapest Q&A: “Checking in” with BudaBaB appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

There is accomodation on site, from basic motel-style digs for HUF8500 (€34; $45) for four people per night to luxury wooden cottages, priced around HUF17,000 (€68; $90) per cottage per night. Alternatively, you can find cheap bed and breakfast accomodation in the village itself, where you will be served hearty Hungarian food paired with some good regional wines.

In the village, you can also order a private open carriage ride to explore the surrounding countryside and see an unspoiled rural Hungary—even if the ride is a little bumpy! Check out the spa’s comprehensive Web site.

From Budapest, Kiskunmajsa can be reached by train in two to two and three-quarters hours, depending on train type.

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