UNESCO World Heritage

But think again. For Mallorca, the fourth most populous island in the Med (after Sicily, Sardinia and Cyprus), has a feast of fine mountain country and a remarkable mix of cultural landscapes. So much so that in 2011 UNESCO inscribed the Serra de Tramuntana—the hills that parallel the north-west coast of the island—on the List of World Heritage Sites.

The island of Mallorca with places mentioned in the post. Photo: © hidden europe

Everything the poet might dream of

The UNESCO-designated area takes in old Moorish gardens, ancient agricultural terraces and water management systems, plus some dramatic mountain scenery around Mallorca’s highest summit at Puig Major. Europe’s literati discovered long ago that the Serra de Tramuntana is Mallorca’s trump card. It was 175 years ago this year, from fall 1838 until spring 1839, that George Sand and Frédéric Chopin overwintered in the hills. In her Un hiver à Majorque, Sand recalls that “Everything the poet or painter might dream of has been created here by nature.”

Another side of Mallorca

Drive the tortuous coast road out to the wild headland at Formentor (at the north-east extremity of the island), and you will surely agree with George Sand’s appraisal of Mallorca. For, yes, there is a redemptive Mallorca, a place apart from the tacky beach communities favored by the sun and sangria set. There are hilltop monasteries, fine country houses and excellent local markets—like the one held at Sineu every Wednesday morning.

The island boasts a vibrant wine industry too. Make for Binissalem to taste wines made of grape types that will probably be totally new to you: manto negro, callet or prensal blanc. And from there, head into the hills.

The village of Orient in the shadow of the Serra de Tramuntana. Photo: © hidden europe

Slow down in Orient

Places on main roads, like Sóller, inevitably pull the crowds. So our favorite Mallorca hill community is Orient, in a remote valley on the edge of the mountains. There are apple orchards and olive groves, neat stone walls and elaborate tiers of terraces. The village is dedicated fair and square to tourism. The farmers have gone, so too has the priest, and most of the houses are now holiday homes. But it is a fine spot to slow down, relax, breathe in fresh mountain air and remind yourself that, despite the woeful spreads of dreary concrete beachfront hotels, Mallorca is still very much worth a visit.

The post Cultural landscapes in Mallorca: Beyond the beaches appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Here are a trio of tips for budget travelers who don’t want to book their rail journeys months in advance.

1. Check for local and regional travel passes.

Global pass options (such as those marketed under both InterRail and Eurail schemes) can be a wonderful value if you are really making long hops by rail across Europe. If your geographical horizons are more limited, it is always worth checking for local passes that cover your intended travel area. The target markets for such passes are often budget-conscious locals rather than well-heeled visitors.

Many areas of Europe have such passes. Here are just three examples from among the hundreds of offers available.

Italy: The Mobilcard Alto Adige allows unlimited travel on selected mainline and mountain railways, buses and cable cars in the Südtirol area of northern Italy. There are various options, but the top-of-the-range seven-day pass is just €28.

Britain: The Derbyshire Wayfarer is a rover ticket allowing unlimited travel on trains and buses in much of the scenic Peak District. Its validity extends beyond merely Derbyshire, for it can be used on journeys from Derbyshire to selected points in five adjacent counties. It costs £11.10 for a day.

Germany: The Bayern Ticket is valid on most trains and buses in the German State of Bavaria (as well as on selected cross-border journeys to neighboring German states and into Austria). It costs €22 for one person for a day (with each accompanying traveler paying just €4 extra).

2. Think about return tickets.

If you are buying tickets as you go, rather than using a rail pass or pre-booking discount rail fares, bear in mind that a return may not cost much more than a single. Here are two examples:

Belgium: The regular one-way fare from Brussels to Bruges is €13.50. But a weekend return (valid from 7 p.m. Friday and anytime Saturday and Sunday) costs just a fraction more at €14.40.

Britain: Roll up at Kings Cross station in London at mid-morning on a busy weekday, expecting to travel at once to Scotland, and you will pay mightily for the privilege of traveling so spontaneously. The single fare to Edinburgh will set you back a hefty £125.70. But for just one pound more you can bag a return ticket from London to Edinburgh.

3. Consider stopovers.

On many journeys across Europe by train, it pays to buy a ticket through to the most distant point and then make use of any break-of-journey privileges that might apply to that ticket.

Take the case above, where we showed how on many long-distance journeys in Britain you can often pay just one pound extra for a return rather than a single ticket. The return half of such tickets is generally valid for a month and it is perfectly possible to stop off along the way. So there is no reason why you cannot break your journey from Edinburgh back to London with a night or two in Durham and then again in York. Indeed you can even vary your route: for example speeding north from London direct to Edinburgh via the East Coast route, but returning back to London via the West Coast – breaking your journey, for example, in the Lake District.

Think creatively about how you can map stopovers into your journey. A Berlin to Vienna ticket, for example, will usually allow you to break your journey at no extra cost in both Dresden and Prague. Do get specialist advice, though, when you buy the ticket. The rules on breaks of journey are famously complicated. With some tickets you may need to specify the place and duration of any break of journey at the time of purchase.

Happy traveling in 2013.

The post 3 Rail Tips for 2013: Consider regional passes, return tickets and stopovers appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Here’s what I found…

1. Start with the national rail Web sites.

As we’ve covered in several posts, first check out the Web sites of the national railways. In this case, it means going to SNCF (for France) and Trenitalia (for Italy).

Note: As mentioned elsewhere, you have to continue browsing the SNCF site in French, as clicking on the British flag to switch languages will take you to RailEurope, which may not show the same fares. We have this article on how to book tickets in French for non-French speakers.

The voyages-sncf.com Web site proposes fast trains from Avignon-Lyon-Turin-Florence for €183.

When I checked on SNCF, the proposed train from Avignon to Florence is a high-speed TGV train running to Lyon, then another TGV to Turin, and finally one last train to Florence. Total time: 11 hr 58 min. Cost €183.

This was deemed a bit too expensive, and also struck me as a bit out of the way.

Furthermore, I wanted to experience smaller trains, not necessarily jetting up to Lyon and down to Turin on a TGV. (Read hidden europe’s excellent piece on opting for the slow train.) I also wanted to hug the Mediterranean for as much of the journey as possible.

But how can you find those slower, more direct, and cheaper trains? You could look at a map and plot it out, but what if you don’t know the route?

On the Bahn.de site, uncheck the “prefer fast connections” to see more route options.

2. Find the route on Bahn.de

The German railway, Deutsche Bahn, provides a great service (in English, too!) on their Web site. Do the same search (Avignon – Florence on January 6) and you’ll see that the first result is the same as the SNCF’s, via Lyon. The next results, however, are much more interesting.

Note: In order to see slower and less-direct routes, un-tick the “Prefer fast connections” box before searching.

In the third result, Die Bahn shows a TGV to Nice, then a regional to Ventimiglia (the Italian border town), an Intercity train to Milan and finally a EuroStar Italia train to Florence. Total trains have increased (four), but the time is actually faster (10 hr., 44 min). Only problem, this still heads north to Milan. I want to see Genoa — and trace the Ligurian Sea.

The route for Avignon – Florence, via Nice, Ventimiglia, Genoa and Pisa, shown on the Bahn.de site.

And there it is, the final option: From Ventimiglia I can take a train up to Genoa, and then follow the sea all the way around to Pisa, then Florence.

The only problem: They don’t show fares for these routes and you can’t book them here. Now what?

3. Head back to the national railway sites.

To book this journey, I’ll need to book on two sites: the SNCF and Trenitalia.

Booking the first half of the trip on voyages-sncf.com.

Back on the SNCF, I search for Avignon – Ventimiglia. Et voila! There’s a 9:30 TGV from Avignon to Nice, then a slower TER train to Ventimiglia, arriving at 13:43. Total price: €32, when booked in advance. (Note that the Bahn site shows a 10:11 a.m. TGV from Avignon, but I book a 9:30 a.m. train instead, as it will give me an extra hour in Ventimiglia for a little break.)

Then I head over to Trenitalia, switch to English, and do the Ventimiglia – Florence search. And there’s my train: Ventimiglia (14:58) – Genoa – Pisa – Florence. The total ticket price can be as low as €34.80, booked in advance.

4. Booking issues

Now, at this point I’m feeling pretty smart. I go ahead and book the seats on the SNCF site, never switching from French to English.

The Trenitalia site shows the trains from Ventimiglia to Florence.

But when I go to book the tickets on the Italian site, I get booking errors. Something has gone wrong. I have to create an account, but then it won’t let me pay. We’ve hit a snag.

The site tells me:

“Error code : 998    Dear customer, due to some malfunction of the system transaction is unsuccessful. No charges made. Please try again later.”

Solution

Not to panic, the base fares for the ticket are still pretty low. If I simply wait to buy the same tickets in Ventimiglia during my one-hour transfer, it will still be €43.80, in lieu of the €34.80 discounted price on the site.

I guess some things can still be booked the old-fashioned way, by waiting in a line.

Even with this little snag, I’ll be able to get from Avignon to Florence for €32 + €43.80 = €75.80, a savings of more than €100.

And yes, even though it will require several more stops and transfers, the trip will mostly be spent hugging the Mediterranean. It just took a little research.

The post How to find and book slower trains in Europe appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

That’s changed. Nowadays, travelers view their vacations as investments that need to be properly planned and carefully managed. The notion of just idling through Europe, moving on from place to place as the mood takes you, now seems delightfully quaint. Some even judge it as an absurd luxury that comes with a high price tag.

Savor the local

True, dynamic pricing (where prices are tuned to demand and the best deals need to be booked well in advance) has become the norm for many city-center hotels and mainstream resorts — particularly for hotels that are affiliated to major international chains.

But canny travelers favor local color and skip the chains. For those travelers keen to support independent locally-owned hotels, particularly in smaller communities across Europe, there are still some great bargains there for the taking. And you don’t need to book in advance.

So why not try traveling on a whim? Sketch out the bare bones of your itinerary if you must, and leave the details to be filled in along the way. Enjoy the serendipity of chance discovery and preserve the flexibility that allows you to stop off at that little Italian village or Baltic port upon which you stumble by chance.

Escape the daily routine

We constrain our workaday lives with strictures and schedules. Why not use periods of travel to escape those constraints? This approach takes a little courage. Of course, there will be times when things don’t work out perfectly. But that’s true too of the most meticulously planned journey.

Slow travel

Mastering this very different style of travel — slower and less directed — takes time. But it is infinitely rewarding. Even more so, we think, if you are less enslaved to guidebooks and more willing to engage with the everyday lives of the communities you happen to visit. This is what slow travel is all about.

It is about bucking the trend, not going the way of the crowd. It is about connecting with places on their terms rather than on yours. It is about allowing yourself to be inspired. It is an approach that rewards those who are prepared to gaze, prepared to wander, even prepared to wonder.

Free spirits are all too rare. But why not give it a shot?

The post Wander, Wonder and Whims: A different approach to travel appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

A great weekend bargain in Germany

On the weekends, for example, travelers can roam the length and breadth of Germany by local and regional trains using the Schönes Wochenende Ticket (SWT), which allows unlimited travel for just €37. And the beauty of the SWT is that you can take along up to four other travelers without having to pay an extra cent.

We have friends who last Sunday traveled from Aachen (on the Belgian border) right across Germany to Salzburg using the SWT, effectively paying €7.40 each for a journey of over 500 miles that took in the Rhine gorge and much more fine scenery. The SWT can even be used to selected stations beyond Germany’s borders (i.e. Salzburg in Austria, Schaffhausen in Switzerland, Wissembourg in France and Szczecin in Poland).

Cheap regional tickets in Germany

While the German SWT is a weekend-only deal, regional tickets in Germany give the freedom to roam within a more limited area on any day, but only after 9 a.m. Mondays through Fridays. These tickets are named after the federal states (Länder in German) in which they are principally marketed. These tickets are typically priced at €20 for one person or €28 for a group of up to five people traveling together.

Roaming Germany’s Baltic coast

The Länder tickets are often valid for substantially larger areas than the federal states after which they are named.

You might expect the “Schleswig-Holstein” ticket only to be valid in the state of Schleswig-Holstein. Think again. This ticket also covers the German states of Hamburg and Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, not to mention selected cross-border stretches of railway into Denmark and Poland. This validity area thus covers Germany’s entire Baltic coast and offshore islands (several of which have causeways carrying railways to the mainland). So devotees of branch lines can use the Schleswig-Holstein ticket to travel very cheaply along rural rail routes from Padborg in Danish Jutland to the Polish town of Swinoujscie.

Similarly, the Sachsen ticket is valid far beyond the borders of Saxony. It can be used over a huge area that encompasses part or all of five German states, two cross-border routes into Poland, and one through the Czech Republic.

As with all Länder tickets, and with the Schönes Wochenende Ticket (SWT), just buy the ticket at the ticket machine before hopping on your first train. You can book a ticket online, but there is really no need to do this. The online tickets are no cheaper than those sold at station ticket machines.

Criss-crossing borders

In many border areas of Europe,  special rail passes are available, even to non-residents, to promote mobility in frontier regions. These are superb deals, often covering not merely the immediate border region but substantial areas well beyond the frontier.

The following are particularly good bargains for one-day tickets:

1. The Euregio Bodensee Tageskarte gives unlimited travel around Lake Constance (called the Bodensee in German) including ferries and selected rail routes in Austria, Germany and Switzerland: €28

2. The Euregio Maas-Rhein Tageskarte permits rail and bus travel throughout parts of eastern Belgium, the Limburg area of the Netherlands and over the German border to Aachen and beyond: €15.50

3. The EuroNeisse Ticket covers a large part of northern Bohemia (Czech Republic), part of Silesia (Poland) and eastern Saxony (Germany) and affords unlimited travel on trains, buses and trams: €10

All the passes mentioned in this post give travelers the chance to really explore a region or make longer hops at a bargain price. Local trains with frequent stops along the way often give a sense of engaging with landscape and communities in a way that is less possible on fast express services.

The post Exploring Germany: Rail passes for local train services appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

The essence of Slow Travel

A while back we published our manifesto for Slow Travel which appealed to the interests of a new generation of travelers who increasingly prioritize low impact tourism, engaging with locals and giving something back to the communities they visit. These are folks who are ever aware of their own carbon footprints.

Bradt Travel Guides

A slow travel guide by Laurence Mitchell.

So three cheers for British publisher Bradt Travel Guides, which has launched a new series of guides devoted to Slow Travel, books that focus on the local and highlight how you might secure real insights into a country by exploring a limited area in detail.

Bradt has always been at the innovative end of the guidebook market, venturing to publish authoritative guides to areas of the world that receive only a tiny trickle of tourists. For travelers looking for good English-language guides to Belarus or Kosovo (or even, for that matter, to Eritrea or Kyrgyzstan), then Bradt is absolutely the market leader.

But they also have their own distinctive take on more frequented spots, and we are much impressed by a trio of books published earlier this month on very beautiful parts of England. They are Slow Norfolk and Suffolk by Laurence Mitchell, Slow North Yorkshire by Mike Bagshaw and Slow Devon and Exmoor by Hilary Bradt, who way back in the mid-1970s founded the company that still bears her name.

Slow Travel in England

Slow travel is a state of mind. It is about having the courage to give to places the time they deserve and not being enslaved by the need to travel farther and travel faster. England is of course ideally suited to this mode of travel and the three books that launch the new series dive off the main highways to take in country lanes and small villages.

Bradt say that more books in their Slow series are in the pipeline. US distribution is handled by Globe Pequot Press. The US editions of all three books will be published on July 13, 2010. Amazon is advertising them for about $16 apiece.

The post Slow Down: A new series on Slow Travel from Bradt Travel Guides appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.