shakespeare and co. paris – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 First time in Paris? 8 activities not to miss https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-8-activities-that-should-be-on-your-bucket-list.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-8-activities-that-should-be-on-your-bucket-list.html#comments Wed, 30 May 2012 15:25:08 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=23705 By Theadora Brack in Paris— Rumor has it you’re planning a trip to Paris! So bless your soul and grab my hand. I have a few recommendations for a dreamy Parisian bucket list, big or tall. Here is where I find my inspiration! 1. Book it! While kicking down the cobblestones, why not pick up » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Rumor has it you’re planning a trip to Paris! So bless your soul and grab my hand. I have a few recommendations for a dreamy Parisian bucket list, big or tall. Here is where I find my inspiration!

Hang out at Shakespeare and Company.

1. Book it!

While kicking down the cobblestones, why not pick up a Paris-related book or novella? Check out Shakespeare & Co. at 37 rue Bûcherie (Metro: Saint-Michel). Located near Notre Dame, it is the most enchanting bookshop in the city!

Through the hard times and the good, I also praise the San Francisco Bookshop at 17 Rue Monsieur le Prince (Metro: Odéon). Here is where I recently found a well-loved copy of “A Literate Passion: Letters of Anaïs Nin & Henry Miller”. Talk about the ultimate starry-eyed read!

Henry wrote: “I have not dared until now to say what I think. But I am plunging—you have opened the void for me—there is no holding back. I am in a fever.” Oh, sigh!

(Read more about our favorite bookstores in Paris.)

Get cheesy at the fromagerie.

2. Eat, Drink and be Merry

And speaking of Henry’s valentine, he also penned, “The aim of life is to live, and to live means to be aware: joyously, drunkenly, serenely, divinely aware!”

Here’s the squeal! Paris is made up of beaucoup boulangeries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, and glaciers. Clipping The Left Banke, don’t walk away, Renée—spurge away! Also, ask for tidbit samples and recommendations. Cheapos, they know.

My gastronomical checklist:

Don’t leave the city without trying a crème brûlé, a meringue, and at least one macaron, along with a baguette, a pain au chocolat, and a selection of young fromage (difficult to find outside of France). Let’s not forget the wine and the crêpes! “Je voudrais une crêpe fromage-jambon, s’il vous plaît,” is what I always say!

(Read more about our favorite cafes and bakeries in Paris.)

3. Big City, Bright Lights

I also advocate sipping a round on a café terrace. Winter, spring, summer and fall, you won’t forget it! For pumped-up kicks, give Suze a shot! A gentian-based apéritif, this old-school bar favorite is typically served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice. Challenge your mates to describe its strange and peculiar flavor!

Back in the day, Picasso quipped, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Yes, the iconic bottle played muse to Picasso back in 1912. Hands-down, his super-cube collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze” always sets my rain on fire!

(Read more about drinks to try at any cafe in Paris.)

Hanging out in the Jardin du Luxembourg

4. Parks and Rec

After you’ve picked up your reads and nibbles, head to one of my favorite parks: Jardin du Luxembourg (Metro: Notre-Dame des Champs, Rennes or Vavin), Jardin des Tuileries (Metro: Tuileries, Concorde, Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre, Pyramides) and the Jardin du Palais Royal (Metro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre).

WWHD? (What would Hem do?)

Hemingway would most likely mosey on over to the Square du Vert-Galant (Metro: Pont Neuf, Cité or Saint-Michel), and chill with wine, books, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.”

(Read in detail about our favorite parks in Paris.)

Lovely, moody Pere Lachaise.

Last stop

Cemeteries are also perfect spots for a little peace, love and understanding. I often curl up with Oscar Wilde at the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise. Like a new pair of cat eyeglasses, the calm terrain not only changes perception, but also attitude. The surrounding beauty both soothes and re-energizes my spirits every time.

Here you’ll also find comfort with Chopin, Modigliani, Proust, Edith Piaf and Jim Morrison. It’s free, and the perfect Paris experience, rain or shine. Come with a journal or sketchbook in hand. In the words of the dashing Wilde, “I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train.” Oh, yes.

5. Taxi!

After nightfall, treat yourself to a cab ride in the City of Light. This is when the city truly twinkles. If you’re not already a wee intoxicated, you soon will be. I guarantee it.

To catch a ride, keep your eyes peeled for a cabstand. You could also hoof around the city after sundown. In Paris I always feel safe as houses, even when I roll solo.

6. Eiffel Tower

Like the moon and stars, the Eiffel Tower is a free show from almost anywhere in town, but better yet go there! Add it to your list. Just do it. Looking for a picture-perfect shot? Shoot up from below, center stage. Here the tower’s iron lattice resembles classic French black lace knickers. Oh, la, la!

I also highly recommend scoring an Eiffel Tower key chain at one of the souvenir shops in Montmartre. For the true love of corn, you’ll thank me one day in the near future. I have no doubts and no shortage of miniature replicas in my very own big box of life’s mementos. Just saying.

View from the rooftop.

7. Up on the roof

Right smack dab in the middle of town, I have a pet rooftop haven. Galeries Lafayette has never let me down! Up here, you’ll spy the Opéra Garnier, the Tour Eiffel, and Sacré Coeur. It’s another perfect spot to recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with sunsets and to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture!

(Read more about visiting the rooftop of Galeries Lafayette and tips for visiting the Sacre Coeur.)

8. Quill Power

Go vintage! Buy your postcards at the flea market! In the world of texts and emoticons, a little handwriting will feel good to the hand, spirit, cat sitter or paramour! Start the search for “cartes postale ancienne” at either the Porte de Vanves Flea Market or Clignancourt Flea Market at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès).

(Read our tips for shopping at flea markets in Paris.)

Signing off with yet another passage by Hemingway, Cheapos, “There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.”

Bon Voyage! Carpe diem, Cheapos! Now start planning that trip!

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Paris: The city’s most enchanting bookstores https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-the-citys-most-enchanting-bookstores.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-the-citys-most-enchanting-bookstores.html#comments Mon, 05 Mar 2012 16:12:48 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=22385 By Theadora Brack in Paris— Bookworms, ignite! This week, we’re headed to my new favorite bookshop in Paris. Located in historic Montmartre, the cozy, century-old Librairie Robert Jonard softly glows with vintage reading lamps, books, art and antiques. Truth unfold, the shop’s ambiance and eclectic collection stole my book-collecting heart immediately. For the love of » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Bookworms, ignite! This week, we’re headed to my new favorite bookshop in Paris. Located in historic Montmartre, the cozy, century-old Librairie Robert Jonard softly glows with vintage reading lamps, books, art and antiques. Truth unfold, the shop’s ambiance and eclectic collection stole my book-collecting heart immediately.

For the love of Woody Allen, I’ll give you two other bookshops that also flaunt a jazzy, romantic “Midnight in Paris” vibe. Let’s go!

Paris books of all ages in the Librairie Robert Jonard.

1. Librairie Robert Jonard
80 rue Joseph de Maistre, 18th arrondissement (Metro Abbesses)

Getting there

Meet me at the Cimetière de Montmartre gates (corner of rue Caulaincourt and rue des Abbesses), and then, depending on the weather, we’ll either hoof it or take the “95” bus. Let’s pack a picnic because there’s a park next to the shop. It’s a sublime reading spot.

As we roll down hill to the shop, keep your eyes peeled for Librairie Robert Jonard’s classic French green “Antiquites Livres Anciens” façade and gorgeous vitrine. Chock-full of paintings, photographs and African sculpture, it will stop you in your tracks. Let’s not also forget to mention the large box of discounted books at the door. Cha-ching!

What’s not to frame?

Warm and fuzzy

Inside, the bookshop possesses the vibe of an old-school salon. Outfitted in rugs and antique furniture, it gave me a strong Proustian dose of solidarity with both past and present. It smelled great, too. This intimate bookshop is well stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, records, postcards and antique magazines.

Deciding exactly where to start your quest is the only glitch you’ll encounter here as you make your way through the floor to ceiling bookshelves, stocked with discounted books that have been meticulously organized by favorite categories like art, travel, and cinema, along with gardening, history and Paris.

Annelise at Librairie Robert Jonard

I’ve got my eye on a Paris souvenir booklet, a Steinlen exposition catalog and a 1950 signed copy of “Paris des Reves” by Bidermanas Izis (with quotes by Henry Miller).

Looking for a specific title or subject?

Ask proprietors Annelise Signoret and Robert Jonard. Both are friendly and accessible. They are also computer savvy and speak English. Here’s another tip: Annelise keeps a stash of beverages and snacks, and she is always willing to share while you browse. Just tell her that you’re a Cheapo. She’s one, too!

Here are two more favorite bookshops. Grab a ballpoint pen!

Pass the day at Mona Lisait

2. Librairies Mona Lisait
17 bis rue Pavée, 4th arrondissement (Metro: St. Paul)
Place Joachim du Bellay, 1st arrondissement (Metro: Châtalet)

I’ve been known to spend entire days in the aisles of the Librairies Mona Lisait. Although this funky bookstore chain that specializes in new and used art books has shops scattered all over Paris, its Marais location is closest to my heart. Its creaky wooden floorboards, uneven cobbled flooring, tinny classical music, helpful staff, and free gift-wrapping all add up to real atmosphere.

Another favorite is the one at Place Joachim du Bellay, not far from the Centre Pompidou. Each of the seven locations has its own charm, and definitely worth a visit. (By the way, “Mona lisait” means “Mona was reading.”)

Browse within sight of Notre Dame at Shakespeare and Company

3. Shakespeare and Company
37 Rue Bûcherie, 5th arrondissement (Métro Saint Michel)

Yearning for your own copy of Victor Hugo’s Notre-Dame de Paris? After getting an eyeful of the real thing, cross the river and stop by the English bookshop Shakespeare and Company, located in a former 16th-century monastery in sight of the big cathedral. Both paperback and hardcover copies of the book are always available here.

A favorite Beat Generation haunt, the late, great George Whitman (Walt Whitman’s nephew) opened the rue Bûcherie location in 1951 under the name of “Le Mistral.” He changed its name to Shakespeare and Company as a tribute to his friend Sylvia Beach after she closed up the original shop by the same name, which had been a few blocks away.

Until December 2011, the grand and dapper old man himself held court here, but alas he is with us no more. You are missed, kind sir.

Nevertheless, happy browsing, Cheapos! In the words of Morrissey, “Keats and Yeats are on your side, strange love, while Wilde is on mine.”

Your favorite bookstores?

Have an enchanting bookstore to add to our list? Tell us about it in our comments section!

Also in our guide: If you’re browsing for a hotel in Paris that will enchant you without shattering your budget, check out our suggestions for affordable hotels, all visited, inspected and reviewed by our editors. Read more in our Paris guide.

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Paris: A Notre Dame walking (and reading) tour https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-a-notre-dame-walking-and-reading-tour.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-a-notre-dame-walking-and-reading-tour.html#respond Mon, 27 Jun 2011 15:44:20 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=19185 By Theadora Brack in Paris— Toots, I did it again. I fell head over heels in love with Paris all over de nouveau. Setting the scene, I had just finished inspecting a slew of hotels in the Latin Quarter, and was headed to meet friends at the wine bar 5ème CRU. This Cheapo haven is » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Toots, I did it again. I fell head over heels in love with Paris all over de nouveau.

Setting the scene, I had just finished inspecting a slew of hotels in the Latin Quarter, and was headed to meet friends at the wine bar 5ème CRU. This Cheapo haven is located at 7 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, so I decided to trek it there by way of the River Seine.

And there she was. As I turned the corner at the river, there was no mistaking the Cathédrale Notre Dame, glowing like an over-sized Lucite jewelry box. I got all smitten. Tears were shed, which caught me off guard (because I tend not to find inspiration at touristic hotspots), but on this bewitching night—there was nary a soul in sight. It was summertime and the swooning was easy.

Notre Dame at night

For the love of Quasimodo and Esmeralda, let’s take a sentimental journey, shall we?

Stop one: Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris
6 Place Parvis Notre Dame
5th arrondissement (Métro: Saint Michel)
Web site

Queen of the French cathedrals

This iconic darling has had its share of monumental ups and downs throughout the centuries. Maurice de Sully (that’s “Bishop” to you) set the project in motion back in 1163. It was a very good year, but as time marched on, it took a toll on the cathedral’s interior and exterior. Well, we’ve all been there. Touché!

Thank writer and historic preservation activist Victor Hugo for jump-starting a sensational sightseeing frenzy, along with the much-needed renovation that followed the publication of his very first novel, Notre-Dame de Paris, in 1831 (released in English in 1833 as The Hunchback of Notre Dame much to the author’s dismay). A “vast symphony in stone” is how the eloquent and passionate Hugo described Notre Dame.

Notre DameWord quickly spread, making Hugo a literary superstar, and inspiring beaucoup de visitors to pay homage with copies of the book in hand. However, at the time Notre Dame was pretty much in ruins because of the French Revolution and general lack of routine maintenance. Cheapos, it was high time for an extreme makeover: cathedral edition!

Paved paradise

Enter architect Viollet-le-Duc in 1841. Contributing his own interpretive gothic revival twist, he added a fantastical spire, and gargoyles to keep the evil spirits at bay, along with a good cleaning and various other minor changes.

Shortly (bare)after, 19th-century urban renewalist Baron Haussmann completed the redo by demolishing the medieval houses surrounding the church and creating a public square. Times are always a-changing.

Shakespeare & Company bookshop

Shakespeare & Company

Second stop: Shakespeare and Company
37 Rue Bûcherie
5th arrondissement (Métro Saint Michel)
Web site

To read or not to read, daddy-o

Yearning for your own copy of Notre-Dame de Paris? After getting an eyeful of the real thing, stop by the English bookshop Shakespeare and Company, located across the street in a former 16th-century monastery. Both paperback and hardcopies of the book are available.

A favorite Beat Generation haunt, George Whitman (Walt Whitman’s nephew) opened the rue Bûcherie location in 1951, under the name of “Le Mistral.” He changed its name to Shakespeare and Company as a tribute to his friend Sylvia Beach after she closed up the original shop by the same name, which had been a few blocks away. And yes, film buffs, here on rue Bûcherie is where the opening scene in the film Before Sunset was shot!

Stop Three: 5ème CRU Cave à Vin
7 rue du Cardinal Lemoine
5th arrondissement (Métro Cardinal Lemoine)

Are you ready for a break? Keep walking along Quai de la Tournelle until you reach Cardinal Lemoine, and then make a right. The wine cave and bar is located a few doors up on the left. A perfect place for quiet reflection on our mad, mad world, the wine is inexpensive, and their charcuterie and fromage platters are divine.

Paris Notre Dame

My favorite passage

I’ve decided to end this week’s post with one of my favorite passages from Notre Dame de Paris. Enjoy and keep on ringing the bells, Cheapos!

On that day the air was so fresh and clear that Quasimodo felt his affection for his bells returning. Clapping his hands, he ran to and fro from one rope to another, awakening his six songsters by this voice and his gestures, as a maestro leads his skilled musicians.

“Go on! Go on, Gabrielle!” he said, “Pour all your music into the square. Today’s a feast day. Thibauld, don’t be lazy. You’re slowing down! Go, go on! Are you becoming rusty, loafer? That’s it. Quick! Quick! Don’t let the clapper be seen. Make them all deaf like me. That’s it, bravo! Thibauld! Guillaume! Guillaume! You’re the biggest, but Pasquier’s the smallest, and Pasquier swings better than you! Those who can hear, I’ll wager you, hear him better than you! Well done! Gabrielle! Louder, louder! Hey! You up there, you sparrows! I don’t see you making any noise. What’s the matter with those brazen beaks of yours, that seems to be yawning when they ought to be singing? Come on, work! Sing! There’s beautiful sunshine; we have to have beautiful music!

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