Scotland – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 A budget guide to Glasgow, Scotland https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/a-budget-guide-to-glasgow-scotland.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/a-budget-guide-to-glasgow-scotland.html#comments Thu, 16 Apr 2020 10:48:06 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=42207 While Edinburgh may woo visitors with its genteel charm, and there’s no escaping the sheer beauty of the Scottish countryside, visitors to Scotland too often overlook Glasgow as a destination. Scotland’s largest city has plenty to offer the budget traveler, whether it’s tremendous free museums or the city’s renowned social life. It’s a working city » Read more

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While Edinburgh may woo visitors with its genteel charm, and there’s no escaping the sheer beauty of the Scottish countryside, visitors to Scotland too often overlook Glasgow as a destination.

Scotland’s largest city has plenty to offer the budget traveler, whether it’s tremendous free museums or the city’s renowned social life. It’s a working city full of contrasts, by turns gritty, glamorous and generous – and one well worth getting to know a little better.

Here’s how to enjoy this great city while saving along the way.


Budget Guide to Glasgow

How to get to Glasgow

Air
Glasgow’s International Airport handles most of the flights and is well served by the budget airlines such as easyJet and Ryanair (with a £10.50 shuttle bus into the center of town). If you’re traveling within Europe, check out Ryanair flights from Prestwick Airport too. Slightly farther out, but it’s an easy and inexpensive journey into the city by bus.

Train
Traveling within the UK? Getting to Glasgow by train is probably the most convenient option: Make sure to book your journey well in advance for the best fares, or consider buying a BritRail pass before you go if you’re planning to do a lot of travel. Edinburgh is also just over an hour away by train. There are regular departures and tickets cost around £10-13.

Bus
Getting the bus is by far the cheapest option — although going by bus from London, for example, will take at least double the time than the train. Check out the MegaBus and National Express for prices starting at around £15 going all the way from London to Glasgow (book well in advance) and just £3.50 from Edinburgh.

What to see and do

There are plenty of tours that will help you get your head around the city’s rich history, although many, unfortunately, will leave your budget a little poorer. However, there are some great free downloadable options to be explored here, with self-guided walks covering everything from an “obscure history guide” to a tour celebrating Glasgow’s musical heritage.

Mackintosh, with a great view

The works of architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh are among Glasgow’s main attractions (you can read more about it in our Glasgow Art Nouveau guide), but many of the Mackintosh attractions do charge admission.

A happy exception is the Lighthouse building, which was Mackintosh’s first architectural commission. It now hosts displays and exhibitions, including one about Mackintosh himself. For an added free bonus, climb its spiral staircase to the top of the tower for a fantastic view over the city.

The Kelvingrove Art Museum is one of the most visited museums in the country. Photo: Gordon Chirgwin

The Kelvingrove Art Gallery is one of the most visited museums in the country. Photo: Gordon Chirgwin

Free galleries and museums

There’s an amazing array of free museums and galleries in Glasgow, which often comes in handy in a city not blessed with the sunniest of weather! This is just a taster of what’s on offer:

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is one of most visited museums in the country, with a collection that caters to all tastes, and encompasses everything from Salvador Dali to Spitfire planes, stuffed animals and armor.

The Hunterian, part of the University of Glasgow, is the oldest museum in Scotland. Head here for its archaeological and ethnographical displays.

The People’s Palace offers an excellent overview of the social history of the city, while the Gallery of Modern Art does exactly what it says it does. Take note of the statue of the Duke of Wellington outside and his alternative headwear: It’s actually a proud Glasgow tradition that he wears a traffic cone! 

Parks

Glasgow is blessed with lots of parks, perfect for relaxing. Pollok Country Park in the south of Glasgow is the city’s largest green space. It’s also the site of another excellent free museum, the Burrell Collection. Housed in a distinctive 1970’s-era building, this gallery includes medieval and Gothic art, Chinese ceramics and masterpieces by the likes of Degas, Manet and Rembrandt.

You’ll find the Botanical Gardens in the west end of the city. Established in 1817, it’s home to many rare and valuable plants, as well as being a lovely place to escape the bustle of the city. Don’t miss the magnificent Kibble Palace glasshouse.

Glasgow Cathedral

The building of this impressive cathedral was begun in the late 12th century, making it intrinsically linked to the history of the city. It’s still in use for Christian services today and is open for free visits.

Adjacent is the imposing Victorian Necropolis. More than 50,000 people are buried here, and although you may not have heard of its most famous “residents”, it’s still well worth a look. Take one of the free guided walks to find out more about its fascinating stories.

Horse Shoe Pub

The Horse Shoe is a classic with a gigantic bar and plenty of Scottish ale. Photo: Adam B.

Affordable restaurants and bars

You are spoiled for choice for both eating and drinking in the city. Often you don’t have to decide between the two activities, as many bars and pubs also serve tasty and reasonably priced food. It’s also definitely worth seeking out a traditional fish and chip shop (although whether you want to test out the Scottish habit of deep-frying everything is up to you) — let your nose guide you to the best!

Bread Meats Bread

One for the carnivores. This no-bookings restaurant attracts rave reviews for its burgers. Prices start at £6.50 for a classic Scottish beef burger, but there are many variations on offer. See how Scotland tackles North American classics such as Poutine, hot dogs and pulled pork. Tempting extras include caramelized sweet fries.

Stereo

To atone for all that meat, pay a visit to this vegan restaurant, which — in true Glasgow style — also doubles as a late-night bar, gig and club venue. The food is reasonably priced but especially worth checking out on a Monday when you can indulge in five tapas dishes for £12. Like this? The 13th Note is another vegetarian (and arty!) option to consider.

Saramago

Another late night license bar/veggie restaurant in yet another great free gallery. It’s housed in the Centre for Contemporary Arts, a venue specializing in film, music, literature, and spoken word. A particular bargain is the theater menu, served between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m., where a three-course meal is priced at £12.95. At other times, expect to pay around £10 for a generous main.

The Horse Shoe Bar

More of a traditional pub, this is named for the shape of its bar – all 104 feet and three inches of it! Its dark wood and antique-tiled interior (topped with an ornate ceiling!) gives a taste of what drinking in Glasgow was like in the past. It’s far from being a museum piece however: you’ll be drinking from its great range of Scottish drinks alongside sports on the TV and the pub’s legendary karaoke sessions!

Where to Stay



Booking.com

Like most of the UK, it can be hard to find super cheap accommodations, but Glasgow does offer a few budget gems in good locations.

Sandyford provides a full Scottish breakfast (eggs, meat, mushrooms, beans, the whole deal) and is within easy reach of good shops, museums and galleries.

The family-run Argyll Hotel is close to Kelvingrove Museum and rooms are equipped with private bathrooms and free Wi-Fi.

For more options, search over 900 Glasgow hotels.

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Boo! Spooky places to celebrate Halloween in Europe https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/spooky-places-to-celebrate-halloween-in-europe.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/spooky-places-to-celebrate-halloween-in-europe.html#respond Tue, 31 Oct 2017 12:46:42 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=20336 Happy Halloween! Though costume parties for October 31st are growing increasingly popular across the continent, most countries in Europe still do not celebrate Halloween in quite the same way as the United States does. Trick or treating has just not caught on yet. To get your spooky fix on that next European vacation — whether » Read more

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Happy Halloween!

Though costume parties for October 31st are growing increasingly popular across the continent, most countries in Europe still do not celebrate Halloween in quite the same way as the United States does. Trick or treating has just not caught on yet.

To get your spooky fix on that next European vacation — whether on All Hallows Eve or any other time of year — check out one of these spine-tingling tours and attractions.

More spooky posts on EuroCheapo:

EuroCheapo’s Spookiest Hotel Ghosts (7 photos!)
Five haunted (and free!) spots in New York City
Free haunted walking tours in NYC

Paris: The Catacombs

From the late 1700s to the mid-1800s, the remains of about six million Parisians were dug up from cemeteries around the city and reinterred in a central ossuary, known as the Catacombs of Paris, a site that should be on every traveler’s shortlist of must-see Paris attractions.

Visitors descend 130 steps beneath the Paris streets for a 1.2-mile trek through poorly lit passageways. Whoever designed the Catacombs definitely had a taste for the macabre: An engraving above the entranceway to the ossuary reads, “Stop! For this is the kingdom of Death,” and the bones are artfully arranged in mounds with scores of skulls on top that seem to stretch on indefinitely. Perhaps the creepiest thing about the Catacombs is the pile of bones at the street exit — the artifacts that visitors have tried to take home as souvenirs.

Details: 1, Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy. Admission is €13.

London: Jack the Ripper Tours

We may never know the identity of the UK’s most famous serial killer, but the legend surrounding Jack the Ripper still scares the bejeezus out of us. Tramping through the back streets of East London on a dark October night seems a fitting tribute to this grisly murderer.

Though many groups offer similar excursions, London Discovery Tours claim to have the “original” Jack the Ripper tour. With a published historian at its head, the company certainly promises a thorough background in the murders, the suspects, and neighborhood history. The two-hour circuit winds through cobblestone streets to point out sites where the victims lived and died.

Details: Tours start at the Aldgate East Underground station at 7 pm nightly. Reservations must be made in advance; the cost is £10 per person.

Edinburgh Underground Vaults

Exploring the spooky Underground Vaults in Edinburgh. Photo fw42

Edinburgh: The Underground Vaults

Many cities boast myths of people living underneath the streets, but in Edinburgh the legends are true. In the late 1700s and early 1800s, a veritable underground city of chambers, vaulted rooms, tunnels, and passageways existed below South Bridge. In these darkened, confined spaces thousands of people lived — and some say their spirits never left. Abandoned in the 1830s, the Underground Vaults reopened to the public in 1996.

Your guide into this underground world is Mercat Tours, who will lead you on a 1-hour and 15-minute tour of the haunted vaults.

Details: From October to March, Mercat offers tours daily at 3 and 5 pm. Reservations are £13 for adults.

Budapest: Nighttime Visits at the Labyrinth of Buda Castle (currently closed)

Located underneath Buda Castle, the Labyrinth is eerie enough in the daytime when it’s illuminated by electric lights. After dark, however, with only a lantern as a guide, the stone passageways are downright spooky. Personally, we’d steer clear of the Labyrinth of Love (where couples start at opposite ends of the maze and meet in the middle for a “romantic” rendezvous undisturbed in one of the chambers), but a Dante-themed program makes our skin crawl in a good way. Forty minutes alone in the darkened halls with visions of the Divine Comedy in our heads? Let’s not think about what demons may be lurking just around the corner!

Find your own way out of purgatory by booking your night tour in advance via the Labyrinth of Buda Castle website (hours and days vary by tour; the Dante tour is available Mondays at midnight, Wednesdays at 11 pm, and Saturdays at 5 am). Adult tickets cost 2,000 forints (about $9) and include one regular admission during daytime hours.

Note: the Labyrinth is temporarily closed and is undergoing government inspection — we hope it will be back open sometime soon!

About the author: Liz Webber is an associate editor at ShermansTravel.com, a leading site for hand-picked travel deals and expert destination advice.

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Glasgow and beyond: Art Nouveau in Europe https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/art-nouveau-in-glasgow-and-europe.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/art-nouveau-in-glasgow-and-europe.html#respond Sat, 31 May 2014 17:39:31 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=37715 The news last week of the terrible fire at the Glasgow School of Art surely brought great sadness to all devotees of art nouveau architecture and design. Reports over the last day or two suggest that, while much of the building has been saved, the celebrated Mackintosh Library was largely destroyed in the flames. It » Read more

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The news last week of the terrible fire at the Glasgow School of Art surely brought great sadness to all devotees of art nouveau architecture and design. Reports over the last day or two suggest that, while much of the building has been saved, the celebrated Mackintosh Library was largely destroyed in the flames. It was widely acclaimed as one of the finest pieces of art nouveau design in the world.

The Mackintosh factor

Devotees of Charles Rennie Mackintosh should not however now delete Glasgow from their itineraries. The House for an Art Lover in the city’s Bellahouston Park is a fine piece of Mackintosh art nouveau style—even though construction of the building did not start until more than sixty years after the architect’s death.

It is also worth making an excursion out of Glasgow to visit the Hill House in Helensburgh. It is just 45 minutes from Glasgow by train (with departures twice hourly from the lower level of Glasgow Queen Street station). At the Hill House you’ll see one of Mackintosh’s finest designs. It was completed in 1904, and the real draw is that Mackintosh also handled the interior designs—some visitors find them excessively stylised, but we like the manner in which grace and severity stand in counterpoint to one another.

If you have more appetite for art nouveau design upon returning to the city from Helensburgh, the obvious next stop is the Willow Tea Rooms which nowadays trade at two addresses: 217 Sauchiehall Street and 97 Buchanan Street. Neither has the original Mackintosh furnishings, but there’s still heaps of design flair—and the classic high-backed art nouveau chairs are more comfy than they look.

Art nouveau around Europe

Fans of art nouveau style will find splendid examples of the genre in cities across Europe. There are those whimsical entrances to Parisian métro stations, a feast of facades in Brussels and a too-often-overlooked magnificent art nouveau entrance hall to the main railway station in Prague.

Ultimately, though, art nouveau was a provincial movement, one that found its fullest expression not in capital cities but in secondary cities. So in Germany, look to Darmstadt rather than Berlin. In France, Nancy cuts a dash in art nouveau design.

Other cities where art nouveau architecture makes a good showing are Barcelona, Subotica (mentioned in a previous EuroCheapo post), Liepaja in Latvia, Zakopane in Poland and even Ålesund in Norway. If that last one sounds a tad improbable, there is a simple explanation. The center of the Norwegian coastal town was destroyed in a fire in 1904. It was rebuilt immediately thereafter, and remains to this day a showpiece example of coherent urban design which is full of art nouveau accents.

Glasgow may be mourning, but Ålesund is a reminder that the fire card plays two ways. Were it not for that devastating fire in 1904, Ålesund would not today be a magnet for lovers of art nouveau.

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Island hopping in the summer: 5 memorable Scottish ferry journeys https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/scottish-ferry-journeys.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/scottish-ferry-journeys.html#respond Wed, 14 May 2014 07:52:32 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=37560 The bible tells us that Scotland has 163 islands that are more than 100 acres in size. The bible, in this case, is Hamish Haswell-Smith’s remarkable book The Scottish Islands. Of those 163 islands, about half are populated by humans (and rather more than half are populated by sheep). About four dozen Scottish islands are » Read more

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The bible tells us that Scotland has 163 islands that are more than 100 acres in size. The bible, in this case, is Hamish Haswell-Smith’s remarkable book The Scottish Islands. Of those 163 islands, about half are populated by humans (and rather more than half are populated by sheep). About four dozen Scottish islands are served by regular scheduled ferry routes. So it’s no surprise that ferries are big business in Scotland—a key element of the national transport infrastructure.

Ferry details

To really catch the flavor of Scotland, it’s good to take a boat or two during your travels. The high season sees augmented schedules on many routes, as well as one or two unusual ferry links that only run in the peak season. Here’s the gen on five fine Scottish ferry trips for this summer.

Bicycles are carried for free on all five routes mentioned here. Cyclists should always mention the need for bike space when making a booking. For foot passengers advance booking is possible, but by no means essential on most of the routes mentioned below. The one notable exception is Route 5 (to Jura) where seats must always be booked in advance.

1. A Viking voyage: Shetland to Orkney

We were blessed with good weather when we sailed from Lerwick in the Shetland Islands to Orkney. It is a perfect journey for a mid-summer evening, when you can expect superb views of Fair Isle. It is a route that runs year-round, but during the high season the frequency rises from twice to thrice weekly. Departures this summer are at 5.30 PM on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from Lerwick.

Single fare: £17.10
Crossing time: 5 hrs 30 mins
Cars carried: YES
Operator: NorthLink Ferries

Oban Bay ferry

The Caledonian MacBrayne ferry cruising through Oban Bay. Photo: Ian Britton

2. Island hopping: Kennacraig to Oban

The bus journey from Kennacraig (a small port towards the northern end of the Mull of Kintyre) takes less than three hours and is a very fine ride through stunning Highland scenery. But there is another option. During the high season, there is a twice-weekly ferry from Kennacraig to Oban. It stops at the islands of Islay and Colonsay, affording along the way very fine views of Jura. The service operates until late October.

Single fare: £15.45
Crossing time: 6 hrs 25 mins
Cars carried: YES
Operator: Caledonian MacBrayne

3. Away from Kintyre: Campbeltown to Ardrossan

As last year, Caledonian MacBrayne are running an occasional service from Campeltown (at the southern end of the Mull of Kintyre) to Ardrossan (on the mainland south-west of Glasgow) until late September 2014. The Saturday sailing from Campbeltown is really one for early birds (it leaves at 7am), but in good weather it’s a fine way to see the Firth of Clyde. It skirts the south coast of Arran, making a stop at Brodick.

Single fare: £9.80
Crossing time: 3 hrs 40 mins
Cars carried: YES
Operator: Caledonian MacBrayne

4. Out to the Outer Hebrides: Oban to Castlebay

There are plenty of boats to the Outer Hebrides, with Caledonian MacBrayne offering a good range of services from Oban and Ullapool (both on the mainland) as well as from the port of Uig on the Isle of Skye. But there is one sailing in particular in the current schedules which warrants attention this summer. The Thursday morning sailing from Oban to Castlebay (on the island of Barra) takes an unusual routing via the islands of Coll and Tiree.

Single fare: £14.25
Crossing time: 6 hrs 45 mins
Cars carried: YES
Operator: Caledonian MacBrayne

Jura ferry

The view from the Jura Passenger Ferry. Photo: bazzarrgh

5. The back route to Jura

There was a time when the only way to Jura was via the island of Islay. But nowadays there is a seasonal direct service to Craighouse on Jura from Tayvallich on the mainland. It’s not cheap, but this community-run venture gives fast access from the Scottish mainland to one of the remotest parts of the Inner Hebrides. The service runs twice daily from Mondays to Saturdays except Wednesdays. There is also one run on a Sunday. The route operates until the end of September.

Single fare: £20
Crossing time: 1 hr
Cars carried: NO
Operator: Jura Passenger Ferry

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Aberdeen, Scotland: 5 budget tips for exploring the Granite City region https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/aberdeen-scotland-5-budget-tips.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/aberdeen-scotland-5-budget-tips.html#respond Fri, 14 Mar 2014 15:57:54 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=36829 Aberdeen is an appealing city, sturdy and solid. In part, this observation is architectural. The city’s predominant building material is granite, something that gives central Aberdeen an attractive if austere uniformity. Aberdeen is also the center of Scotland’s oil industry—even the whole continent. The city uses the tagline “Energy capital of Europe.” As you might » Read more

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Aberdeen is an appealing city, sturdy and solid. In part, this observation is architectural. The city’s predominant building material is granite, something that gives central Aberdeen an attractive if austere uniformity.

Aberdeen is also the center of Scotland’s oil industry—even the whole continent. The city uses the tagline “Energy capital of Europe.” As you might expect with a moniker like this one, Aberdeen is well off. And with visitor traffic largely coming from business travelers, it will probably never be one of Europe’s least expensive cities to visit. But it’s a great little city that Cheapos will enjoy, and these penny-stretching tips will be especially welcome to help ease the burden on your pocketbook.

1. Consider a weekend visit to save on hotels

Aberdeen’s hotels can be very expensive. Aberdeen is a business-friendly town full of oil industry players all week long. Hotel rates match the expense accounts of this market. But executives skedaddle on weekends and rates plummet. Some mid-range hotels even offer weekend packages. Shop around on budget hotel sites like EuroCheapo, and you can probably find a good deal.

Marischal College is the home of the Aberdeen City Council and a grand symbol of "Granite City." Photo: Alex Robertson Textor

Marischal College is the home of the Aberdeen City Council and a grand symbol of “Granite City.” Photo: Alex Robertson Textor

2. Visit the city’s excellent and free museums

Entry to the Maritime Museum and the Aberdeen Art Gallery are free of charge. Both are worth a visit. The Maritime Museum (on Shiprow) is great for young kids, with exhibits on shipping, the oil industry and fishing. The Aberdeen Art Gallery (on Schoolhill) has some wonderful galleries devoted to 19th and 20th Century British painting. It will soon close for a two-year redevelopment project. While dates haven’t been confirmed yet, the latest information I was able to tease out of a gallery employee suggests that the museum won’t be closed until early 2015. Another fun place to explore is Marshall College with

Ballater

Ballater is a quaint Victorian village outside of Aberdeen. Photo: Alex Robertson Textor

3. Pick up a bus pass to explore the area

£13.50 gets you a six-zone dayrider bus pass good for exploring Aberdeenshire far and wide. Tickets can be purchased from the bus driver on board. The town of Ballater, about 90 minutes from Aberdeen, is a compelling Victorian village. Located within the Cairngorms National Park, the largest national park in the UK, Ballater is a stone’s throw from Balmoral Castle, the royal summer residence. It is also home to the old Royal Station, previously Balmoral’s royal train station and today the tourist information center and a small museum.

The lovely harbor in Stonehaven, just south of Aberdeen. Photo: Mia

The lovely harbor in Stonehaven, just south of Aberdeen. Photo: Mia

4. Award-winning fish & chips on the coast

Closer to Aberdeen is Stonehaven (zone 3, or a £7.50 dayrider ticket), a charming seaside village located just 15 miles south of the city center. Stonehaven has a picturesque harbor and is perfect for an afternoon or morning visit. For those looking to indulge in one of Scotland’s favorite delicacies, there is an award-winning fish and chips shop called The Bay that should not be missed.

5. Grab an affordable (and delicious) lunch at Food Story Cafe

Just a block away from Union Street, a central artery, Food Story Cafe (15 Thistle Street) is a sweet little delicatessen serving up delicious breakfasts and lunches. The place is always bustling, and the fresh sandwiches and soups are very good. A tasty combination will run you only £6.50.

Thanks to Inverness-based travel writer Simon Varwell and Aberdeen resident (and former New Yorker) Rachel Kelly for their Aberdeen advice and tips.

 

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Edinburgh: Five top cheap and tasty restaurants https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/cheap-eats-in-edinburgh.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/cheap-eats-in-edinburgh.html#respond Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:41:16 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=36536 If you’ve travelled straight up from London, the affordability of eating well in Edinburgh will come as a pleasant surprise. It’s a city of cozy cafes where it’s easy to satisfy your stomach with soup and baked potatoes. Evening options are more wallet-friendly too—though if you really want something super cheap, head to a chippy » Read more

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If you’ve travelled straight up from London, the affordability of eating well in Edinburgh will come as a pleasant surprise. It’s a city of cozy cafes where it’s easy to satisfy your stomach with soup and baked potatoes. Evening options are more wallet-friendly too—though if you really want something super cheap, head to a chippy to sample the city’s famous chips with salt and ‘sauce’ (a brown sauce meets vinegar concoction). For something more classy and artery-friendly, here are five options that are some of Edinburgh’s best cheap eats.

Elephant House pastries

Buying pastries at Elephant house. Photo: Axon Manage

The Elephant House
21 George IV Bridge

The Elephant House is famous for three things. First of all, the elephants that gave the place its name: there’s loads of them dotted around this charming café. Then there’s Harry Potter. J.K. Rowling apparently wrote some of the first Harry Potter sitting in this café’s back room that has what you might call inspirational views over to Edinburgh castle. And, finally, there’s the food. Although it does open in the evening, this is mainly a sandwich and soup, or a coffee and cake kind of place. Attracting academics from the National Library of Scotland opposite as well as Potter tourists and aspiring novelists, the Elephant House is a great place to sit and people watch for an hour or so.

The Mosque Kitchen 
22 Nicolson Street

Another firm student favorite, this eatery—as the name suggests—is related to Edinburgh’s mosque. It originally served the congregation but opened its kitchen to all, much to the delight of curry lovers around the city. You’ll need to queue, and it’s more of a canteen than a restaurant (meals are served on paper plates), but when you can pick up a tasty chicken curry with two sides for less than a fiver, it’s more than worthwhile.

Photo: Gary Denham

North African favorite Nile Valley Cafe. Photo: Gary Denham

Nile Valley Cafe
6 Chapel Street

Situated right by University of Edinburgh, its influence can be felt in the flyers and posters for student events decorating the walls, as well as the cheap prices of this North African eatery. Think flavorful falafel, kebabs and flat breads with great dips and sauces, perfect for adding some color on a cold Edinburgh day. Charmingly scruffy around the edges, you can enjoy a set lunch at £5.99 or evening meal for £15.50, and make the most of their bring your own booze policy.

A Room in the West End & Teuchters Bar
26 William Street

This place is perfect if you want a Scottish experience—it’s basically a highland bar transplanted to the center of Edinburgh. That means football and rugby on the TVs and an extensive range of whiskys behind the bar. There’s a bar menu—a tempting variety of things served in mugs—or head downstairs to the cozy ‘room’ to enjoy a more formal dining experience. Food is suitably Scottish, with an emphasis on seafood, but many a fond word has also been said about their Banoffee pie. Mains are around £13 each, but you can get a good deal on a set lunch. There’s another branch in the Leith area of the city.

The Dogs cottage pie

Cottage pie with braised red cabbage at The Dogs restaurant. Photo: Edinburgh Blog

The Dogs
110 Hanover Street

The Dogs was set up to provide a good value dining experience. It’s a fun, young and informal atmosphere with mismatched plates and crockery, dark wood tables and hearty mains, using locally sourced food where possible. In the day, you can get mains for under £7, while in the evening around £13 will get you delights such as a generous portion of stuffed pork belly. At busier times in the city, such as Hogmanay or the Edinburgh Festival, you’ll probably need to book ahead.

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Exploring Europe: Really Rural Scotland https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/exploring-europe-really-rural-scotland.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/exploring-europe-really-rural-scotland.html#respond Wed, 28 Aug 2013 16:51:59 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=34350 “Yes, we’ve been all over Scotland,” said the couple we met on the fast train from Edinburgh down to London. They told how, during two full weeks in the country, they had been to Loch Lomond, Royal Deeside, Balmoral and elsewhere. They had even ventured west to Glenfinnan (where Bonnie Price Charlie and Harry Potter » Read more

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“Yes, we’ve been all over Scotland,” said the couple we met on the fast train from Edinburgh down to London. They told how, during two full weeks in the country, they had been to Loch Lomond, Royal Deeside, Balmoral and elsewhere. They had even ventured west to Glenfinnan (where Bonnie Price Charlie and Harry Potter compete with each other for a place in the imagination of visitors) and they had spent one night on the Isle of Skye.

Scottish lions

The truth of course is that, like many tourists to Scotland, the couple on the train had barely scratched the surface of the country. Victorian travellers described the “must-see” sights in any region as the “lions” and the standard list of Scottish lions has barely changed in 150 years. The railway viaduct at Glenfinnan, opened only in 1898, is the newcomer to the list.

The "Western Isles" arrives at the Knoydart's remote pier. Photo © hidden europe

The “Western Isles” arrives at the Knoydart’s remote pier. Photo © hidden europe

Over recent decades, great tracts of the Scottish Highlands, which were once so difficult to reach, have become very much more accessible. Distance has been diminished by better roads, improved ferry connections and faster trains. The most frequently visited Scottish island — Skye — is now hardly an island at all. Since 1995, it has been connected by a road bridge to the mainland.

Routes less taken

Move away from Scotland’s principal cities and for many decades the defining characteristic of Scottish rural landscapes was their remoteness. In many cases, there is still a genuine sense of isolation and distance from civilisation. The Shetland capital at Lerwick is still more than twelve hours on the fastest boat from the mainland port of Aberdeen. If, having sailed from Aberdeen to Lerwick, you want to continue on the direct boat from Lerwick to tiny Fair Isle (which runs only on alternate Thursdays), then you are in for another longish voyage — five hours.

Even on the mainland, distances are challenging. The sole daily rail connection from Wick (in the north-east) to Stranraer (in the south-west) takes over twelve hours. Few visitors to Scotland have the appetite for such long hauls. Impatience with travel, lust to be at a destination, means that most visitors focus on easy trips to places that are quick pickings.

Five hidden gems

So you think you know Scotland? Here’s our checklist of five remote spots that well repay the effort of a strenuous journey. None of them are in the canon of accepted tourist “sights.” But each offers a taste of really rural Scotland:

1. The island of North Ronaldsay in the Orkneys, reached by twice weekly ferry from Kirkwall. Travel time 2hrs 40mins to 3hrs 35mins from Kirkwall.

2. The island of Barra in the Outer Hebrides, reached by ferry from Oban. Sailings most day, with a passage time of 5 to 7 hours.

3. The Knoydart Peninsula on the mainland. A half-hour hop on the ferry from Mallaig.

4. Kinloch Hourn — one of the remotest spots on the mainland that can be reached by car. But take time, for access is by a fragile ribbon of tarmac: a single-track road that seems to go on for ever.

5. The summit of Merrick in the Galloway Forest Park. No lofty mountain, but a chance to engage with the hills and forests of Scotland’s oft-overlooked south-west corner.

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From Britain to the Continent: North Sea Ferries https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/from-britain-to-the-continent-north-sea-ferries.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/from-britain-to-the-continent-north-sea-ferries.html#respond Wed, 19 Oct 2011 11:45:26 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=20466 Last week, we looked at ferry services that make the short hop over the Strait of Dover, linking the English ports of Dover and Ramsgate with nearby France and Belgium. These are great options if you are based in southeast England, bound for the near-continent and do not fancy the prospect of a longer ferry » Read more

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Last week, we looked at ferry services that make the short hop over the Strait of Dover, linking the English ports of Dover and Ramsgate with nearby France and Belgium. These are great options if you are based in southeast England, bound for the near-continent and do not fancy the prospect of a longer ferry journey.

But for many journeys by boat to and from Britain there are some credible alternatives which deserve a look. This week we explore shipping routes across the North Sea.

Dutch Flyer

Stena Line offer twice-daily sailings from Harwich to Hoek van Holland (a Dutch port that Brits still colloquially refer to as “The Hook”). One of the two services is by day, the other an overnight crossing. The ferry terminals at either end of this shipping route are well served by trains, so this makes an excellent rail-sea route linking London with Amsterdam, Rotterdam and northern Germany.

A Dutch Flyer ticket from just £39 allows you to travel from London Liverpool Street (or more than 160 other train stations in eastern England) to anywhere in the Netherlands. The fare covers the rail journey to Harwich, the 7- to 8-hour journey on the ship and then the onward train ride from Hoek van Holland to any train station on the Dutch network.

This really can be tremendous value. Rail fares in the Netherlands can be pricey, but with the Dutch Flyer ticket you effectively get onward travel within the Netherlands at no extra cost. Travelers using the overnight ferry option will need to pay a modest supplement for cabin accommodation.

Directly to Denmark

A prime choice for travelers bound for Scandinavia or the Baltic region is the DFDS service from Harwich to Esbjerg. The 18- to 19-hour crossing is a real chance to relax. Fast trains to Harwich from London connect with the late afternoon departure of the ship. From Esbjerg there are convenient same-day train connections on to Copenhagen and Hamburg.

One-way fares for the ship start at £49.

By ship from northern England

If you are based in Scotland or northern England, it is a long haul down to Harwich to catch a boat across the North Sea. But there are three long-established daily shipping routes direct from the North to the continent. All three are overnight services.

They are:

1. With DFDS at 5 p.m. every afternoon from Newcastle (North Shields) to Ijmuiden on the Dutch coast. DFDS lay on a connecting coach service which will speed you from Ijmuiden to the middle of Amsterdam.

2. A 6:30 p.m. P&O Ferries ship from Hull to Zeebrugge in Belgium, perfectly placed for access to Flanders. A bus collects foot-passengers from the ship in Zeebrugge for a shuttle transfer to Bruges railway station.

3. A second P&O Ferries daily departure from Hull, this one at 9 p.m. bound for Europoort in Holland. P&O offer real cruise-ferry luxury on this route. This route offers a choice of onward bus connections from the Dutch port of disembarkation: a direct express coach to Rotterdam and one to Amsterdam.  You can link onto the Dutch rail network in both cities with same-day onward connections to destinations across central Europe.

Our view is that these North Sea shipping routes offer an imaginative way to make journeys from many parts of Britain to the eastern Alps, the Rhine Valley, central European capitals and much of eastern Europe. They are all certainly a lot more fun than shuffling through long lines at airport security.

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Island Flights: Flying around Scotland and Ireland https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/island-flights-flying-around-scotland-and-ireland.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/island-flights-flying-around-scotland-and-ireland.html#comments Wed, 18 May 2011 12:03:34 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=18424 Last week, we looked at multi-sector hops across Arctic Norway and beach landings on Barra in our review of unusual European scheduled flights. Now we follow up with comments on some of the really small aircraft used on regular island flights around Scotland and Ireland. Shetland Several of the smaller islands in the Shetland archipelago » Read more

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Last week, we looked at multi-sector hops across Arctic Norway and beach landings on Barra in our review of unusual European scheduled flights. Now we follow up with comments on some of the really small aircraft used on regular island flights around Scotland and Ireland.

Shetland

Several of the smaller islands in the Shetland archipelago have long relied on lifeline air services that were for four decades operated by Scottish airline Loganair. Nowadays Directflight operates these services with regular links to seven Shetland airports using 8-seater BN2-Islander aircraft. A quick look at Directflight’s 2011 fares and schedules shows fully flexible (and refundable) one-way fares from just £11 (about $18).

Inner Hebrides

BN2-Islanders are also a regular sight at Oban airport on the Scottish mainland where they are used on all the services operated by the airport’s sole scheduled airline: Hebridean Air Services. The company provides flights to four islands in the Inner Hebrides: Islay, Tiree, Coll and Colonsay.

Hebridean Air Services also offer links between selected islands. Pick of the routes for scenery is the afternoon flight from Colonsay to Islay which affords superb views of the Paps of Jura. This flight operates on Tuesdays and Thursdays this summer and tickets cost from £20 one way. The twice-weekly year-round air service augments the summer-only ferry service which operates just once each week.

Orkney

Loganair may have lost the Shetland inter-island contract, but they are still a mainstay of Orkney life where they operate Islanders on short hops serving seven Orkney airports. Some inter-island itineraries may require three or four en route stops and fares start at £15 return.

Loganair claims a world record for the shortest scheduled flight with its link between Westray and the neighboring island of Papa Westray where the sector takes just two minutes.

Aran Islands

Across in western Ireland, ever-versatile Islander aircraft also link the mainland with the three beautiful Aran Islands. Services are operated by Aer Arann Islands and the adult one-way fare for the short hop from Connemara Regional Airport (Aerfort Réigiúnach Chonamara) on the mainland to any of the three island airports is €23.

Plane or boat?

We don’t suggest that the plane to the Arans, or any of the Scottish island communities mentioned in this article, is necessarily better than the corresponding ferry connections. Most times, we would opt for boat over plane.

But some of the communities we mention here are genuinely remote and ill-served by ferries. Between now and the end of September the direct Orkney ferry from Papa Westray to North Ronaldsay runs on just four occasions. The weekly non-stop flight (on a Thursday) is thus a key element of the islands’ transport infrastructure.

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European Ferries: 4 interesting new options for 2011 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/european-ferries-4-interesting-new-options-for-2011.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/european-ferries-4-interesting-new-options-for-2011.html#comments Wed, 09 Mar 2011 12:40:24 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=17176 Europe’s ferry schedules are famously fluid, and it’s often devilishly hard to keep pace with new route developments. Here is our choice of a quartet of interesting ferry options for spring and summer 2011. 1. St. Peter Line to Russia The news last week that over 60 ships were trapped in thick ice in the » Read more

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Europe’s ferry schedules are famously fluid, and it’s often devilishly hard to keep pace with new route developments. Here is our choice of a quartet of interesting ferry options for spring and summer 2011.

1. St. Peter Line to Russia

The news last week that over 60 ships were trapped in thick ice in the Baltic for some days is probably no great incentive to go and book some ferry trips. But Baltic spring ice does melt–eventually–and this year sees some interesting new options for Baltic travel by ship.

Cypriot-owned St. Peter Line last year launched a thrice-weekly service from Helsinki to St. Petersburg and back. And next month the company expands its offering with twice-weekly sailings from Stockholm to St. Petersburg (on Wednesdays and Saturdays) and a weekly departure from Tallinn to St. Petersburg (on Sundays).

2. Brittany Ferries to Bilbao

French operator Brittany Ferries has long been one of the most adventurous operators in the Western Channel with a raft of routes linking England and Ireland with northwest France. Later this month, the company opens a new service from Portsmouth to Bilbao in Spain, so reviving a long established ferry connection that abruptly disappeared when P&O pulled off the route last September.

Last Saturday, Brittany Ferries also reinstated its Poole to Cherbourg service. This is a very useful short link from England’s south coast to Normandy’s Cotentin peninsula. At the moment, Brittany advertise sailings just to October, so the long-term future of the route is still in doubt.

3. Maltese Connections

Virtu Ferries are one of several operators serving the Maltese market. The company had a welcome dose of free publicity in late February as Virtu’s smart white catamarans were featured on many news reports as the vessels evacuating foreign workers from Libyan ports. Virtu operates a year-round fast-ferry link between Pozzallo in Sicily and Malta. This year the company will also offer a Saturday catamaran service from Catania to Malta, starting on May 7, 2011.

Virtu’s latest Australian-built catamaran hit the headlines in September 2010 when it encountered Somali pirates on its delivery voyage to Malta. Virtu prides itself on speed, and reports say that the pirates were easily outpaced.

4. Scotland-Northern Ireland: Kintyre Express

Not for many years has there been any direct ferry link across the North Channel between the Mull of Kintyre (in western Scotland) and Northern Ireland. The last operator to offer a service was the splendidly named Argyll & Antrim Steam Packet Company which turned out to have rather flaky finances, and the service stopped in 2000.

Now Kintyre Express will fill the gap with a new fast passenger ferry from Campbeltown to Ballycastle. Services start on May 27, 2011. The route will be operated by fast RIBs with a heated cabin, so the 90-minute crossing is surely going to be a whole lot more fun than the average ferry journey. We reserve judgment on whether this is an inspired idea by Colin Craig, the man behind Kintyre Express, or whether perhaps it might be the balmiest idea in the history of European ferry transport.

We hope it is a great success, but Kintyre Express really needs to get its act together in terms of publicity and having a functioning online booking system on its website. This new ferry link creates a raft of new travel opportunities allowing visitors to Kintyre and Islay to make an easy hop over to the most beautiful part of the coast of Northern Ireland. The Antrim Glens and the Giant’s Causeway are both within easy reach of the Ballycastle ferry terminal.

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