That was the challenge laid down by one reader when he commented on our blog post last week. So we accept the challenge. Why go to Macedonia?

What’s in a name?

Similar in size to Massachusetts and Wales, Macedonia is a country in the southern Balkans that would dearly like to cut a dash on the international tourist circuit. So far, so good… or perhaps not.

US readers may remember those full page ads in the New York Times a few years ago where the Athens government protested that its northern neighbor used the name Macedonia. So to pacify those ruffled Hellenic feathers, the international community dubs the country (at least when Greeks are in earshot) the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (or “FYROM” for short).

Sveta Sofia church in Ohrid

Cut through the politics surrounding the name, and the Republic of Macedonia is keen to welcome visitors.

Macedonian variety

But why Macedonia rather than Greece or Albania? If you are a dedicated culture-vulture, Macedonia arguably packs more into a small space than any of its neighbors. It is the juxtaposition of a rich Orthodox Christian tradition with a lively Islamic heritage that underpins Macedonia’s appeal.

Then there are other inviting aspects of local culture, such as the Torbeshi and Vlach communities in the hills, and Europe’s largest Roma settlement at Suto Orizari, and dedicated followers of European minorities can enjoy a Macedonian feast. Suto Orizari, for example, could be a good magnet for culturally sensitive travelers.

Throw in great fresh salads, superb wines (especially the hefty reds) and you have many key ingredients to make the Republic of Macedonia a first-class destination.

Byzantine style

True, you’ll find that same engaging cultural combination, particularly the mixed Christian and Islamic heritage, in Albania (though certainly not in Greece). But Macedonia captures that religious variety better than Albania.

The sheer density of fine Byzantine art and architecture in Macedonia is dazzling. Sveta Sofia church in Ohrid (pictured, above right) boasts subtle frescoes that give a beautiful tutorial in 11th-century ecclesiastical politics, when the Great Schism divided the Christian Church into its two principal branches, viz. Latin (or Western) and Greek (or Eastern).

The monastery of Sveti Jovan Bigorski (St. John the Baptist) has a world-class carved iconostasis. And whether it be in the crumbling monastery at Treskavec (so desperately in need of renovation) or at the tiny church perched on the cliffs by Lake Ohrid at Kaneo, Macedonia offers rich insights into the Orthodox tradition.

A rich Islamic tradition

Yet frescoes and icons, no matter how splendid, may not induce you to travel to the Republic of Macedonia. For us, the country’s huge appeal lies in other pilgrim trails which meld Byzantine glory with other aspects of culture. One day, the Macedonian government will wake up to the reality that the country’s mosques and Muslim culture may be a trump card.

Bektashi beliefs

Visitors to Macedonia who take the trouble to visit the country’s Islamic communities will begin to appreciate the various strands of Muslim belief in the country. This is a chance to see something of the Bektashi community, a relatively small sect often regarded as part of the Sufi tradition, which has a number of tekkes or lodges across the country.

The city of Tetovo is a good starting point, where you can see a very fine mosque (pictured, left) and a Bektashi tekke. Curiously, the Bektashis blend elements of Christian religious practice into their own faith, such as venerating the tombs of the dead. There are even examples of shared shrines in Macedonia where Christians and Bektashi converge on the same sacred spaces (though not, perhaps, always for the same reasons).

How to get there

The main airport at Skopje (named after Alexander the Great in a move that does nothing to appease neighboring Greeks who also assert ownership over Alex) has regular flights from Zürich, Budapest, Vienna, Prague, Ljubljana and Belgrade. Wizz Air launches four times weekly connections from London on June 19.

The country’s second airport at Lake Ohrid reopened this week after a period closed for refurbishment. This spring and summer, Ohrid will benefit from direct flights from Ljubljana (Adria), Belgrade (JAT) and Amsterdam (ArkeFly).

The Bradt Guide to Macedonia

There are excellent train connections, with this summer’s schedules showing direct trains to Skopje from eight other countries. However and whenever you visit, take along Thammy Evans’ Bradt Guide to Macedonia. Her handling of the cultural complexity of the country is superb.

The post Why Travel to Macedonia? The Macedonian Question appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

We present you with five of the largest and most interesting “Autres” Dames de Paris, representing the diverse quartiers of the city.

The Basilique Notre Dames des Victoires

Basilique Notre Dame des Victoires

One of two basilicas bearing the name “Our Lady” in Paris, you’ll find the Basilique Notre Dames des Victoires on the Place des Petit Pères in the 2nd Arrondissement. Construction began in 1629, financed by Louis XIII, who also gave the church its name. During the Revolution the Augustinian friars who lived there were expelled and Notre Dame des Victoires was converted into a stock market.

It reopened as a place of worship in 1809, but few congregants returned to the church. The local priest was about to call it quits in 1836 when he received a divine message telling him to reconsecrate the church to the “Immaculate Heart of the Very Saintly Virgin.” Soon, pilgrims were flocking to the site. The inside walls of the building are covered in plaques bearing the prayers of the faithful from around this time. Notre Dame des Victoires became a basilica in 1927.

Visiting: The building is open to the public 7:30 AM to 7:45 PM Monday through Saturday and 8:30 AM to 7:45 PM on Sunday.

Notre Dame des Champs

Notre Dame des Champs

The first divine being to be worshiped at this site was Mercury, the Roman god of commerce. When the first Christians arrived in the Paris region, they rededicated the existing shrine to Mary under the name “Notre Dame des Vignes.” King Robert the Pious (996-1031) decided to rebuild the church, and around the same time the name was changed to “Notre Dame des Champs” because the vines (“vignes”) had been torn down.

The church enjoyed fame under the reign of Louis XIV, but unfortunately the building was destroyed during the Revolution. The first stone of the current church was laid in 1867, in 1876 the building was dedicated, and the archbishop of Paris oversaw the consecration in 1912.

Notre Dame des Champs borders the 6th and 14th Arrondissements at 92 bis Boulevard du Montparnasse. The spacious nave lets in quite a bit of light, even on rainy days. To take a full tour of the church, follow the stations of the cross beginning at the front on the left side, continuing around the back and up the other side.

Visiting: Opening hours are between 9 AM and 12:30 PM and 2 PM and 5:30 PM, except for Sunday when the church closes at 5 PM.

Notre Dame de Lorette

I must admit to being a bit partial to Notre Dame de Lorette because it’s in my neighborhood in the 9th Arrondissement, at 8 bis Rue de Châteaudun. If you stand far enough down the Rue Laffitte, directly across from the front entrance, there’s an amazing view of Notre Dame de Lorette with Sacré Coeur looming in the background (see photo, above).

With its elaborate Corinthian columns and imposing Latin transcription over the door, it’s not hard to see that the church was modeled after Roman basilicas. The neoclassic architect Hippolyte Lebas designed the building, which was constructed between 1823 and 1836. (You’ll find a street bearing the architect’s name not far here, just a ways up the Rue des Martyrs.)

Visiting: Notre Dame de Lorette is open Monday from 11 AM to 7:30 PM; Tuesday to Friday from 7:30 AM to 7:30 PM; Saturday from 9 AM to 12 PM and 2:30 PM to 7:30 PM; and Sunday 9 AM to 12:30 PM and 2:30 PM to 7 PM.

Notre Dame de Clignancourt

Notre Dame de Clignancourt

The first stone of Notre Dame de Clignancourt was laid by the great civic planner Baron Haussmann in 1859, and it opened its doors in 1863. Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III, endowed the church with furniture and objects of worship, much of which was plundered during the Paris Commune in 1870.

The interior of Notre Dame de Clignancourt is a bit dark, but it does have lovely modern stained-glass windows. The pretty chapel behind the altar is definitely worth a look. Located at 2 Place Jules Joffrin in the 18th Arrondissement, the church is directly opposite from the neighborhood’s mairie (town hall building), which is also an architectural gem.

Visiting: Notre Dame de Clignancourt is open from 9 AM to 12:30 PM and 2 PM to 7:30 PM, except on Sundays when it closes at 5:30 PM.

Notre Dame de la Croix

Notre Dame de la Croix

Notre Dame de la Croix is by far the largest church on our list. The steeple is visible from blocks away over the roofs of the surrounding buildings. To fully appreciate the enormity of the structure, start at the far end of Rue Etienne Dolet and walk up to the main entrance at 3 Place de Ménilmontant (in the 20th Arrondissement).

Originally, a small chapel opening in 1847 served the Catholic community in this neighborhood. However, the chapel became too small, and construction began on the current church in 1863. The work was interrupted by the Commune, but was finally finished in 1880.

Notre Dame de la Croix gets its name from a statue owned by the monks of Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie that was hidden in the Ménilmontant neighborhood during the Revolution. The statue was stolen in 1975 and then recovered, but was later stolen again and never returned.

Visiting: The church is open Monday through Saturday from 7 AM to 7:30 PM; on Thursday until 10 PM; and Sunday 7:30 AM to 7 PM.

Discover more Notre Dames

To visit even more of the churches named for the Virgin Mary, you can try looking them up on the websites for each arrondissement, which all follow the same formula (example: the website of the 5th is www.mairie5.paris.fr). Once there, search for “lieux de culte” in the “rechercher” box. Not all the websites list places of worship, but it’s a good starting place.

Do you know of any other intriguing Notre Dame that we might have missed? Tell us about it in the comments section!

The post Paris Free Sights: The other Notre Dames de Paris appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Editor’s Note: This week, the blog will be tagging along with fellow Cheapo Alex Christodoulides as she visits family in Cyprus.

NICOSIA, Cyprus—Nicosia has about a dozen churches of various styles and ages scattered through the walled part of the city, ranging from the Byzantine Chrysaliniotissa Church near the Green Line and the Famagusta Gate to the airy 19th-century Phaneromeni Church. Ayios Ioannis cathedral sounds larger than it is and has been through more change than its simple name suggests. Some, like Stavros tou Missirikou Church, have survived so many masters of Cyprus that their outward appearance would seem to indicate an identity crisis.

Chrysaliniotissa Church

Chrysaliniotissa Church keeps a low profile, literally, with its solid, reliable barrel vaults. Although it’s on a street that bears its name, it’s pretty unobtrusive if you arrive there from a back road – no sky-high bell tower makes it easy to spot miles away.

Inside is a respite from the heat and glare, thanks to thick stone walls. The iconostasis here is unusually wide, making for a shallow but broad seating area. Take a look at the Virgin Mary and Christ icons, where worshippers often leave offerings in silver or wax to symbolize requests or thanks for prayers answered.

Ayios Ioannis cathedral

The oft-reinvented Ayios Ioannis sits inside a complex that includes the Archbishopric and the Byzantine Museum and Art Galleries. So small it seems you could stretch your arms and almost touch both walls, the church was built in 1662 on the site of a 14th-century Benedictine chapel dedicated to St. John the Evangelist which subsequently became a Greek Orthodox church honoring St. John the Theologian.

The single-aisle building’s lavishly painted walls and ceiling depict scenes from the Bible and the major saints of the Orthodox Church, with the throng of faces clearing for a huge Pantokrator above the elaborate iconostasis. Shooting photos and video is not allowed inside the church, and a sign at the door says tour groups get five minutes to take it all in, but on quiet days the caretaker will let you take a seat to admire as long as you like.

Stavros tou Missirikou Church

Stavros tou Missirikou Church was built in the 16th century as a medieval Orthodox house of worship, but was converted into a mosque in 1571 when the Ottomans took over the island. The church has some Byzantine, Gothic and Italian Renaissance architectural elements, and a minaret added to one side of the building documents its time as a mosque, which is a lot to cram into a building that seats maybe 30 people. No longer used for ecclesiastical services, the church often houses exhibits.

Phaneromeni Church

Nearby is Phaneromeni Church, the largest in the walled city. Its tall, unadorned white walls seem to direct the worshippers’ gaze to the massive icons near the entrances and the intricately carved, painted and gilded iconostasis.

Phaneromeni Church is another where the faithful have left a collection of wax items hooked on the iconostasis rail to symbolize prayers made or answered. A constant trickle of worshippers drops by to kiss the icons of favorite saints or offer a quick prayer for an urgent request as a benevolent-looking Pantokrator gazes down on them from on high.

About the author: Alex Christodoulides is one of those push-me-pull-you creatures known as a dual citizen. When not at home in New York City (where she is a freelance writer) or in Cyprus (where she is a freeloader taking advantage of her relatives’ hospitality), she is probably dreaming of a trip to someplace where vaccinations are required and Fodor’s fears to tread.

The post Cyprus Journal: Church visits in Nicosia appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Cheapos clearly like to get under the skin of a city, probing well beyond the regular sights to get a feel for what makes a community tick. Faith is often still part of the fabric of European life, but getting a feel for it as a foreigner isn’t always easy – unless you happen to be a churchgoer.

Churches of all denominations (and mosques and synagogues, too) usually welcome casual visitors to their services, provided that the stranger dresses appropriately, adopts a reverent demeanour, and does not attempt to take photographs during services.

Get thee to Church

York Minster for Evensong is a very different place from the echo-filled space around which tourists wander during the day. The Minster is transformed into something altogether more meaningful. Similarly Vespers in St Mark’s in Venice will leave you in awe of the space for which Monteverdi wrote such evocative music in a way that you’ll simply miss if you shuffle round with the tourist crowds. The interior of the newly restored Frauenkirche in Dresden seems, with its strange mix of pastel shades, like a tribute to poor taste during the day when tourists traipse through the place; attend a service and the space assumes a different meaning and is altogether more pleasing.

Whether it be at a grand cathedral like Chartres or Milan, or in a humble parish church in a small village in the Alps, Mass on a Sunday morning will only take an hour out of your day. This sedentary hour may give some quiet insights into local life. Take in a service at a Methodist chapel in Wales for a good glimpse into Welsh life. What is modern Poland without Catholicism? And in hundreds of communities across Russia, devotional zeal knows no bounds. A visit to an Orthodox service for the Divine Liturgy on a Sunday is a chance to witness some fine liturgical theatre that offers rich insights into life in Russia.

Take in a service and you’ll save on a few admission fees into the bargain. No church has yet had the temerity to charge those who come to pray!

The post hidden europe: Visiting churches in Europe appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.