Based on my experience, here are a few tips on how to experience a guilt-free shopping spree in Paris.

Now, let’s tally forth!

Paris shopping tips for budget travelers

1. Timing is key

Bargain hunter to the core? Try to schedule your trip during one of the citywide sales. The “Soldes d’hiver” launch in January and continue through February, while the “Soldes d’ete” are on tap to woo for six weeks in June and July.

Also, during the sales the prices start to drop and keep on dropping, so it’s a judgment call as to whether to pounce early and get the best selection, or wait it out a little and get the best deals. To be perfectly honest, I do both.

O, my deer! Do consider a basic shopping kit prior to your trip. A scene from a Bon Marché window. Photo: T. Brack

2. Be Prepared

Prior to setting out, consider your basic shopping kit: water bottle, moleskin (for blisters), a snack, Métro tickets, maps with targeted shops circled, and coins for WCs. And don’t forget a sturdy bag for your treasures. Most French grocery stores sell them at checkout for just a few cents. Lightweight and good-looking, they make perfect souvenirs, too.

My sister Wendy suggests also packing a camera for self-portraits, and snaps of celebrities like Lenny Kravitz. “Are you going our way?” we recently cried as he sped past us on his bike, near the Opéra. I don’t think he heard us because, well, he didn’t stop.

Regarding rooftop selfies: #Holdontotheledge

Visualization always helps me narrow my Great Hunt. A scene from a Printemps’ window. Photo: T. Brack

3. Plan of Action

Have a “quest” in mind, since visualization will help narrow your hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your desire.

What’s missing from your closet? Ballet slippers? Trench coat? Both are timeless French classics. Or perhaps you covet a Longchamp tote? Heck, we’ve been there. How about just a nice pair of shoes? Nobody’s going to judge you. It’s Paris, after all. So grab a pen and create a wish list.

Are you going our way? If so, take the bus, Gus! A scene from a Galeries Lafayette window. Photo: T. Brack

4. Getting around

Time is precious. However, it’s possible to visit two fashion-related exhibitions, three monuments, four department stores, and five prime (and affordable) shopping districts—all in one day. Lean in, because it’s true. Mine eyes have seen the glory!

What’s my secret? Get on the bus, Gus. For the price of a Métro ticket, you’ll not only cruise between the shopping districts with the greatest of ease, but also boast about your first scores of the day while the panorama of Paris rolls by en route to the next shopping district. You can use the same ticket for rides on several buses taken within 90 minutes of the first time you get it stamped.

To cite just one example, there are several personal favorite shopping meccas along the “95” bus route: Montmartre-Abbesses, Boulevard Haussmann, the Opéra district rue de Rivoli, and rue de Rennes. Talk about wheeling and dealing!

My sister Wendy documenting the Eiffel Tower and favorite sacred shopping grounds at Place de la Madeleine. Photo: T. Brack

5. Favorite Shopping ’Hoods

I’m no diva, but I do like to shop-hop without a lot of hassle. Focusing not only on the place but also on the journey—i.e., on the experience of the visit itself—I’m always on the prowl for historic shopping zones as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores may carry similar items.

Here are a few more favorite shopping havens. I call it my T-Zone:

• Passage du Havre at Gare St-Lazare
• Magasin Décathlon at Place de la Madeleine
• Le Bon Marché at Métro Sevres-Babylone
• the whole stretch of rue de Rennes, along with Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Champs-Élysées, rue de Rivoli
• BHV at Hôtel de Ville.

Related: Our 10 favorite shopping districts in Paris

You’ll find a pocket of vintage clothing shops in the Marais. Photo: T. Brack

6. Paging Secondhand-Roses

Possess a mad penchant for collecting the garb of yesteryear? I’m with you, step by step. Paris still gives me a strong Proustian dose of solidarity with both past and present. Throughout Paris, you’ll find pockets of “friperies” (second-hand clothing shops) and “depôts-ventes” (consignment shops), but especially in Abbesses and the Marais.

Also, Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV) now boasts a new vintage clothing department. Here you’ll find retro garb, along with gently used bags, scarves, hats, and shoes. During one of my recent sleuthing trips, I spied more than a few big name Catherine Deneuve-worthy trench coats here—but without their usual exorbitant price tags.

Related: Know you secondhand shopping vocabulary in Paris

Getting all Tête-à-Tête at the Porte de Vanves Flea Market. Photo: T. Brack

7. Flea Markets

Don’t leave Paris without at least one trip to the Porte de Vanves Flea Market. I’ve also scored big at the “brocantes” (antique/junk sales) and the vide-greniers (neighborhood-wide attic sales). Down through the years, I’ve found pink Valentino heels, black boots by Charles Jourdan, and a pointy brassiere by Maison Cadolle handmade in the 1940s. And none cost more than 30 euros.

Click here for the 2016 listing of brocantes, vide-greniers and marches aux puces.

Related: Shopping tips for flea market success in Paris

Keep your peepers peeled for pickpockets whist browsing through the bargain bins. Photo: T. Brack

8. Bargain Bins

I often find my bargain bin bliss at the Sympa shops on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart . Located at the foot of Sacré Coeur in Montmartre, the stock is always in rotation. Here you’ll find Kookai, Jennyfer, and Naf-Naf, along with Best Mountain, Etam, and Undiz, but at a fraction of their original cost.

Don your elbow pads, eat a hearty breakfast, and keep your peepers peeled for pickpockets. Game on!

Galeries Lafayette’s Belle Époque rocking dome has never failed to bring me to tears. Photo: T. Brack

9. Grand Magasins

Paris boasts four famous old department stores. Bon Marché, Printemps, and Galeries Lafayette are conveniently located along the Métro 12 line, while Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV) holds court next to the Hôtel de Ville. Winding it back to the Belle Epoque, they’d lure the Cheapos of that day inside with displays of discounted silk remnants (a.k.a. “coupons”—literally “piece cut off,” from couper “o cut”).

Here’s how to get a few coupons of your own.

Don’t discount the tourist discount cards because every little bit counts. Photo: T. Brack

Tourist Discount Cards at BHV and Galeries Lafayette

Both BHV and Galeries Lafayette offer tourist discount cards, which knock off 10% on selected items. To score G.L.’s “Exceptional 10% Discount” card, present your passport at the information desk on the store’s ground floor near the rue Mogador entrance.

You’ll find BHV’s “-10% offer*” discount voucher on their website. Print it before leaving home and then present it at the welcome desk, along with your passport. It’s just that easy!

Department store house brands are often slashed by 20% to 50% during the big sales. A scene from Printemps. Photo: T. Brack

House Brands

Don’t miss the department store house brands. Affordable, well-made, and sporting souvenir-worthy labels, the collections feature bags, scarves, and sweaters. During the two annual sale periods (mentioned above), price tags are slashed by 20-50%.

Plus, Galeries Lafayette and BHV’s house brands are often eligible for the tourist discount. So do request your card. As my grandmother put it, “It all adds up.”

We always feel snappy and happy like room without a roof up on the rooftop at Galeries Lafayette. Photo: T. Brack

Rooftop Views

For years now, I’ve carried on a torrid love affair with the rooftop café at Printemps. Here, the wine is affordable and the panoramic view of the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra Garnier, and Sacré Coeur is free. The roof of Galeries Lafayette also sweetly tempts with its faux green grass and funky red plastic chairs and sofas.

But now, there’s a new roof in town. Not to be outdone in the potted plant department, Le BHV Marais now has its very own rooftop terrace. “Perchoir Marais” is open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, after the store closes. It’s another win-sin.

As Oscar Wilde once quipped, “The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it.”

I completely agree. Happy Hunting!

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1. Je ne regrette rien—NOT.

Dear Musée Edith Piaf, You broke my heart. Was it really necessary to slam the door in my face back in November when I arrived at your doorstep without a set rendezvous? I’ve loved you since my first visit back in 1998, and every visit since. So what gives? Do the math. For over a decade, I’ve been sending folks your way. In this easy, breezy social media world, perhaps a new system is needed? Just asking.

Regrette rien at Anna’s music box shop.

If operations get switched up for the better, do let me know. Nothing in this world would give me more pleasure than happily spreading the word about the “little sparrow” and your collection once more. (5 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75011)

Happy alternative plays on

Yearning for a little “La Vie en Rose” to take home with you? Then trek it to Boîtes à Musique Anna Joliet. Located at the northern end of the Jardin du Palais Royal, Anna and her collection of hand-cranked music boxes have held court here for three decades. Prices start at only €8.

Looking for a specific tune? Just ask. Listen for Debussy, Chopin, and Charles Trénet, along with Mozart, Beethoven and Andrew Lloyd Webber. Yes, fellow felines, “Memory” is always in stock.

The Centre Pompidou. All that plumbing… and not one decent toilet.

2. Skip the loo—entirely.

Dear Centre Pompidou, I love you, but it’s time to clean up your act, as my grandmother Helen would quip. I’m no restroom diva, but golly gee wham—I nearly fainted during a recent visit. All that piping on the outside of the building and there’s still a problem? It makes the mind reel! Perhaps it’s time to get Point WC on the horn. After all, their restrooms at the Louvre and Printemps are state of the art and consistently spotless. It’s just a thought.

By the way, the Point WC washrooms are pretty hot. One euro gets you private seating in a water closet lit by rose-colored lights, and stocked with fluorescent toilet paper in blues, pinks, and greens. Just don’t leave your soda pop bottle behind. They will hunt you down, and give you a scolding at sink side! My-O-My, bad.

Alternative pit stop

Cheapos, if you plan to visit the Centre Pompidou, pick your potty spot prior to your arrival. Or run nearby to the grand washrooms at the BHV department store (Bazaar de l’Hotel de Ville), which also boasts one of my pet views of Paris. It’s a straight shot down rue du Renard. Make a left at rue Rivoli. It’s also definitely worth the wait (or trot)!

So what’s red hot? Follow my lead!

Farewell, Sympa.

1. Sympa

Due to a recent fire, two of my favorite Sympa shops have closed. Located at the historic “Bal de l’Elysée Montmartre,” this is where Can Can starlet (and muse of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec) La Goulue got her start before joining the Moulin Rouge.

I nearly cried when I spotted the damage. Confession: I did cry. Its façade is still a beauty, on the outside at least. I’ll keep you posted on any future reconstruction work.

In the meantime, the Sympa bargain bins on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart are still overflowing with tremendous deals.

Wendy at the Starbucks kitty-corner to the Moulin Rouge.

2. Starbucks

Café Royalists, look away because you’re going to hate this tip. During my sister Wen’s recent trip to Paris, the Starbucks at Place Blanche is where she picked up her morning coffee.

Located kitty-corner to the Moulin Rouge, the place was bustling, but by the end of her week-long visit, the amiable staff not only knew her name, but also her standard “Café Latte skim” order. Did they make fun of her French? I don’t think so!

Inside and out, the jaunty joint was packed with locals, not tourists, by the way. Don’t hate me because I’m truthful.

Pumped and ready at Minutit moins 7.

3. Minuit moins 7

And speaking of red hot steals, I recently scored a pair of Christian Louboutin kitten heels at a flea market for just €15. They’re real and they’re spectacular. Except for the soles, the black leather shoes were in perfect condition.

So what to do? I took them to the Minuit moins 7 for a much-needed official red resoling. Located in the historic passage Véro-Dodat, the repair will cost just €20. Also, this is where Monsieur Louboutin takes his very own shoes. Ask about their signature homemade (and affordable) shoe polish.

“Gaz à les étages around 1880” at the Bibliothèque Forney

4. Bibliothèque Forney

While strolling about in the Marais, I stumbled upon the “Gaz à tous les étages” exhibition at the Bibliothèque Forney in the Hotel de Sens (1 rue du Figuier, 75004). It’s definitely worth a pop in. Named as a nod to the little blue enamel signs that can still be spotted on buildings throughout the City of Light (“All floors have gas”—a 19th century boasting), the exhibit recounts the brilliant history of gas in Paris.

Highlights include antique lighting and cooking equipment, gas company uniforms, and a stellar collection of advertising posters along with a 1920s kitchen and hair salon, an Art Nouveau bathroom, and Frédéric Kastner’s weirdly entrancing gas organ. It’s a looker, and one of only two in the world. “Gaz à tous” will stay on through January 28, 2012.

Happy New Year, Cheapos!

The post Paris: What’s hot (and what’s not) in 2012 appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché

So fire up your printers, Cheapos! Here’s the agenda for the first day of our shop ’til you drop campaign of Napoleonic proportions!

Tips

Do pack one oversized bag for your goods. While the multiple-shopping bag scene with Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman” is charming and all, you’re just inviting advances from pickpockets. Most grocery store chains sell durable large bags for just a few cents. Franprix’s current model was inspired by Mondrian!

Also, for the love of saving both time and money, purchase your Metro tickets by the “carnet” (10-pack) before you set out.

Galeries Lafayette’s dome

10:00 a.m.: Abbesses
Metro: Abbesses, line 12

After a short run around the Sacré Coeur ’hood to help Wen shake the jet lag blues, we headed to Sympa for some bargain bin shopping. This string of shops runs along rue de Steinkerque, a street once notorious for its brothels and dance halls. (Picasso shopped here!)

On this day we were able to score some slinky black tops by Carling, each costing €2.99 a pop! Confession: I bought twelve, and my sister purchased nine. Heads-up: Etam’s frilly spring 2011 line of lingerie is currently on sale for just a few euros apiece!

11:00 a.m.: 140 bis, rue de Rennes
Metro: Rennes, line 12

We then soared to Zara at the Félix Potin building (an Art Nouveau masterpiece) on the bustling rue de Rennes. It’s a pet Zara hot spot because the location usually serves as one of last stops for the chain’s leftover winter clothing sales.

Commes des Garcons’ exhibit at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile

Here my sister scooped up a classic belted trench coat, along with seven cap-sleeved turtle necks, all costing just €3.99 a piece. By this victorious moment, the woozy feeling of jet lag had completely abandoned the scene. Yes, sometimes fleeting joy CAN be bought!

12 noon: Bon Marché
Metro: Sevres-Babylone, line 12

After grabbing soda pops just outside the Rennes metro stop, we fast-trekked to the Christian Dior exhibition at Bon Marché. Decked out in Dior’s beloved white and grey, the exhibit was made up of iconic “New Look” ensembles, photographs, and super hip multimedia projections on oversized accessories like chairs, mannequins and hat boxes. After a few spins around the gallery, we snagged a few sweets at the Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché, which is just behind the main building.

Wendy’s new coat

Please note: the Dior exhibit closes March 26, 2011, so if you’re in Paris now, hotfoot it there right away. Not in Paris? Fret not, because the department store often coordinates free exhibits. There will be more to come!

1:30 p.m.: Carrousel du Louvre
Metro: Louvre Rivoli, line 1

Feeling the sugar rush, we raced to the “Les années 1900-2000” exhibition at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile. Our favorite showstoppers included Jean Paul Gaultier’s plumes, Junya Watanabe’s unstoppable bustles, and Comme des Garcons’ bulges in all the wrong places.

Afterwards, we had a wonderful, marvelous photo-op at the Arc-de-Triomphe du Carrousel. Film buffs, this is where the iconic balloon scene in “Funny Face” with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire was shot. ‘S Marvelous!

3:30 p.m.: Samaritaine at Pont Neuf
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

Spotting a few dramatic-looking rain clouds heading our way, we made a joint decision to promenade swiftly down rue de Rivoli to Zara’s other “last stop” for sale items, located in the former Samaritaine department store at Chatêlet.

After ogling its spectacular exterior, we nipped into Zara where Wen picked up a few more turtlenecks (Can you ever have enough? I don’t think so!), and I scored a fur-lined vest and a thick green felt dress, both costing just €6.

4:30 p.m.: Pont Neuf and Saint Germain
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

We then made our way to the Pont Neuf to pay homage to King Henri IV (a.k.a. “Le Vert Galant”), and yes, to check out his boots. Green with envy and fatigue, we slowly crept across the bridge, limping toward Saint Germain des Prés.

The dapper monarch’s benediction must have been with us because in no time at all we found ourselves seated in a cozy boutique, surrounded by hundreds of boots, all on sale. The proprietor was extremely personable, helping my sister find the boots of her dreams. The boots? On Sale. The Cendrillon (Cinderella) experience? Priceless.

View from the flat at l’heure bleu

6:00 p.m.: Boulevard Haussmann
Metro: Havre-Caumartin, line 7

Losing both daylight and any remaining feeling in our feet (or “dogs” as my grandmother Wentz would say), we ended our whirlwind day trip by paying a call on those Belle Époque beauties, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on Boulevard Haussmann.

After an ogle and a gaze at GL’s amazing dome, we stopped by its gourmet shop, where we loaded up with bread, Cantal cheese, and a bottle of crisp white Cheverny. Then we slowly hobbled back to Saint-Lazare, where we caught line 12 back to Abbesses, just in time for l’heure bleu (twilight), more sister bonding, and planning for the next day!

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When you’re visiting Paris and “hitting the sights,” you shouldn’t spend half of your precious time waiting in lines. If you follow a few simple tips, you could curtail those lines and large groups and spend more time strolling the streets and relaxing in cafés after a day of successful sightseeing.

Here are seven ways to beat the crowds:

1. Sacre Cœur

The Sacre Cœur Basilica atop the Montmartre neighborhood is a gleaming white monument that attracts visitors like moths to a light, especially on weekends and during the summer. But head to the church at night–it’s open until 11 p.m. every day. At night, not only do you get a spectacular view of the city from the highest point in Paris, but you can wander the church without herds of camera-toting tourists behind you. (Speaking of which, there are no photos allowed!)

Oh, Mona! Photo: Stew Dean

2. Mona Lisa and the Louvre

Visiting da Vinci’s famed Mona Lisa at the Louvre is a must, especially for the first-time Parisian experience. But the crush of people in front of this tiny painting can be unbearable, especially on the first Sunday of the month when museums and monuments are free.

Visiting the Louvre first thing in the morning or during one of its nocturnal openings (Wednesday and Friday from 6-10 p.m.) will allow for a much more pleasant (if more expensive) experience, hopefully devoid of the crazy, snapping crowds.

3. Bakery

Getting the best baguettes and pastries in Paris can be difficult if you go during “rush hours.” While there’s rarely a wrong place to grab an éclair or loaf, there is a wrong time. Avoid the bakeries at lunch time and during the evening rush hours. For example, my favorite bakery has a line out the door at 6 p.m. every night, even during the winter. I drop by early in the morning for fresh pastries or later in the afternoon before the rush hour traffic arrives.

4. Department stores

Exploring department stores in Paris can be a rewarding treat. Not only is the merchandise fun to browse, but the stores themselves are works of art. If you show up on the wrong day or time, however, even an hour at the Galeries Lafayette or Printemps stores can leave you exhausted.

During the twice-annual sales, “soldes” in French (during the late summer and early winter), the stores become veritable havens for bargain hunters. No store is safe at these times. During the rest of the year, Saturdays are an agoraphobic shopper’s worst nightmare, as well.

If you need a breather, take the escalators to the top floor. The observation deck atop the Galeries Lafayette is free and offers a unique view of Paris.

5. Metro

While the Metro is never ideal for those inclined to panic attacks, the absolute worst time to ride are during rush hours, around 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. Parisian work days typically start around 10 and end around 6, so to avoid the rush, either get to the Metro station earlier or, well, walk. During the rest of the day, finding a seat shouldn’t be a problem. During the rush hour, however, you might not be able to squeeze into the train at all.

6. The Conciergerie and Sainte Chapelle

The Conciergerie and Sainte Chapelle are two extremely popular tourist attractions, both located on the Ile de la Cité near Notre Dame. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the crowds lined up on the sidewalk, making Marie Antoinette’s prison cell and Louis IX’s stain-glassed chapel feel like Space Mountain at Disney World.

Weekends, again, are bad times to go. Also, if visiting on the “first free Sunday of the month,” remember that the word “free” speaks to everyone. You’ll save some money, but you’ll lose lots of time, so weigh the pros and cons.

7. Eiffel Tower

Ascending the Eiffel Tower is an experience cherished by more than 6 million tourists each year. Unfortunately, most of them will also remember waiting upwards of an hour in line to take the elevator to the top.

There are ways around this, however. The most intrepid and athletic tourists can hike up to the first level by foot and then catch the elevator from there, bypassing the lines at the base of the tower. For those of us with less stamina, remember that the tower is open late into the evening, until 12:45 a.m. during the summer and until 11:45 p.m. the rest of the year. While other tourists are grabbing dinner, take advantage of the shorter lines!

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Oh, the weather in Paris has been frightful, but the city is still delightful. So crank up Tino Rossi’s classic “Petit Papa Nöel” on the gramophone, or pull on your boots and bravely hot step it outside. For your wandering pleasure, I’ve created a personal list of my favorite holiday rituals and fancy rites!

Lights

Inside Galeries Lafayette

I typically kick off my holiday season with a jaunt to the lights and “vitrines de Noël” (holiday windows) on Boulevard Haussmann. This year, Galeries Lafayette’s windows were outfitted by Italian artist (and master of the spectacle) Valerio Festi to celebrate the resonating, magical beauty of musicals like Hairspray, Le Soldat Rose, Les Rockettes and Mamma Mia.

Meanwhile at nearby Printemps (102 Rue de Provence), royals and marionettes romp and frolic in fantastical and giddy “Nöel au Chateau” tableaux by Lanvin’s artistic director, Alber Elbaz. A “B.F.F. of the Cheapos,” we have Monsieur Elbaz to thank for introducing an affordable Lanvin line to H&M this year. Ooh-Ra-Ra!

Also, let’s not forget the smaller shops! Often restaurants, pâtisseries, boutiques, and even pharmacies hire artists to create holiday murals. Shopping districts in every arrondissement are also gussied up with streetlights.

Cookies

During the holidays I carry at least one meringue cookie in my trench coat pocket or bag at all times. Sweet and crunchy, it’s the ultimate instant sugar rush, making the perfect portable snack. Yes, Goldilocks, size does matter, so go with a medium-sized cookie because the smaller ones are sometimes on the dry side, and the larger ones are occasionally too soft.

Clémentines à feuilles at Lafayette Gourmet

Also, while in nibble-mode, sample other types of cookies like jelly-filled powdered lunettes, rich and crispy florentines, and fleshy iconic macarons. Looking for a big cookie? Ask for a sandy and oh-so-buttery “sablé”!

Fruit

During the colder months, clémentines à feuilles (i.e., with green leaves still attached to show how fresh they are) reign at the produce stands in Paris. You’ll also be tempted by big, bright pyramids of citrons (lemons), cédrats (citrons), and pamplemousses (grapefruit), not to mention tangerines, limes, mandarines, and oranges.

Keep your eyes peeled for les figues violette (purple figs), poires (pears), pommes (apples), raisins (grapes) and caramboliers (star fish). Remember, the produce merchant is your friend and advisor, so don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations!

Chopin at the Musée de la Vie Romantique

Museum Houses

Musée de la Vie Romantique
16 Rue Chaptal (Métro Blanche)

In the quiet and quaint “Nouvelle Athènes” area around Métro Saint-George, you’ll find the Musée de la Vie Romantique. Formerly the home of painter Ary Scheffer, it now showcases works from the Romantic Movement in art and literature. Back in the day, this is where George Sand, Chopin, Delaxroix, Lizt, and Rossini would gather! Scheffer’s paintings are displayed the second floor, while his spunky neighbor George Sand’s art, personal artifacts (and her bling, too!) occupy the first floor. Pack a hankie because electric candlelight and piped-in Chopin gently lends it a truly romantic ambiance.

Hooked on houses? Check out still more amazing digs:

Musée du Gustave Moreau on 14 rue de La Rochefoucauld (Métro Trinité)

Jacquemart-Andre Museum on 158 Boulevard Haussmann (Métro Miromesnil)

Maison de Victor Hugo at 6 place des Vosges (Metro: Chemin-Vert or Saint-Paul)

Le Musée de la Poupée at Impasse Berthaud (Métro Rambuteau) The Doll Museum’s exhibition “Le Retour du Père Nöel” closes January 9.

Cinema 28

Movies

The sun sets early in winter, so why not cozy up with an old flick at the cinema? After seeing “Pat Garrett and Billy the Kid,” followed by Audrey Hepburn’s “Love in the Afternoon” one cold and wet New Year’s Day, this became my personal holiday tradition.

My favorite cinema is Studio 28 in Abbesses. Founded in 1928, it became world’s first avant-garde art theater after Salvador Dali and Luis Buñuel premiered one of the first surrealist films there: “L’Age d’Or.” Do look up. Jean Cocteau designed the theater chandeliers!

Also showing oldie-but-goodie American classics (which, by the way, the locals love) are the Action Ecoles at 23 rue des Ecoles (Métro Maubert-Mutualité or Jussieu), the Action Christine on 4 rue Christine (Métro Odéon or Saint-Michel), and the Grand Action at 5 rue des Ecoles (Métro Cardinal-Lemoine or Jussieu)—just to name a few.

Happy Holidays, Cheapos!

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Here are several ways you can catch the Christmas spirit in Paris:

1. Department store window displays

The windows at the department stores are not quite as extravagant as those on Fifth Avenue in New York, but the Galeries Lafayette and Bon Marché stores do their best to compete. And the best part is that you don’t even have to worry about expensive price tags to enjoy the holiday decoration.

Galeries Lafayette: This year a Broadway theme dominates at the Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussmann. Children especially love watching the puppets dancing to the “Mamma Mia!” soundtrack. (38 Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin, 75009, Metro: Chaussée d’Antin-Lafayette)

BHV: Meanwhile, over at the iconic BHV department store on rue de Rivoli, Santa tackles the circus in a series of colorful windows. (52 Rue de Rivoli, 75004, Metro: Hotel de Ville)

Also check out Printemps, next to the Galeries Lafayette (102 Rue de Provence, 75009. Metro: Saint-Lazare) and Le Bon Marché (24 Rue de Sèvres, 75007, Metro: Sèvres-Babylone).

Make sure to take a look inside each store for their elaborate Christmas trees, as well.

2. Christmas markets in Paris

If you are looking to do a little holiday shopping like the Europeans do, check out the holiday markets around town.

A tradition hailing from neighboring Germany, the bustling marchés de Noel can be found throughout Paris. While the merchandise may be kitschy and overpriced, the hot mulled wine is always yummy at just €3 for a cup of cheer.

Here are a few marchés to consider:

Champs Elysées: Tourists flock to the famed Champs Elysées market, a holiday wonderland once the lights twinkle to life at night. If you feel like splurging €8 on a breathtaking view of the city, take a spin on the Ferris Wheel at the end on Place de la Concorde. (Metro: Concorde or Champs Elysées-Clemenceau)

Saint Sulpice: Other markets are much more intimate. At the market outside Saint Sulpice church in the Saint Germain neighborhood you can browse scarves and various cheeses. (Metro: Saint Sulpice)

Montmartre: A stroll (or Metro ride) up Montmartre and you’ll find yourself in the middle of a market at Places des Abbesses in the picturesque neighborhood-with-a-view. (Metro: Abbesses)

La Defense: For a more modern take on the holiday, browse the 350 vendors at the La Défense market, located in the city’s business district. (Metro: La Défense)

Real Parisians know that the best Christmas markets in France are located in Strasbourg, about two hours to the east of Paris. However, any competition fades after a few glasses of hot wine.

For more Christmas market listings, check out About.com’s list.

3. Christmas at Notre Dame

Sure, it may be “on the beaten tourist path,” but the city’s medieval cathedral has an extra magical glow during the holidays. A Christmas tree shimmers with blue lights outside under the massive Gothic bell towers. Inside, the famous nativity scene is on display and visitors are encouraged to leave messages of peace.

On December 20, the church will host its annual Christmas concert–and of course it’s all free! (Metro: Saint-Michel).

4. Holiday feasting

Eating is, of course, essential in France during the holiday season (and most seasons, for that matter). Parisian supermarkets are rife with chocolates and cakes, most importantly the bûche de Noel, a scrumptious chocolate and chestnut cake. Hot wine flows in most cafés as well throughout the holiday season as the temperatures drop and spirits need a little lifting.

Of course all of this holiday cheer doesn’t stop on Christmas day. Look in any bakery or pastry shop for the galette de Rois, or King Cake, that is popular around the time of the Epiphany in the two weeks after Christmas day. A word of caution: Be careful not to swallow the figurine hidden inside. Whoever chomps down upon the the prize is crowned King or Queen–and buys the cake the next year!

The post Paris: Christmas Windows, Holiday Markets, and More Ways to Celebrate the Season appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Le Bon Marché was not only the very first department store in Paris (in fact, one of the world’s first) but it also changed up the rules of retail, set waves of shopping frenzies in motion, and acted as muse to artists and writers of the avant-garde set.

So Cheapos, a tribute we will pay!

A view from the Métro

Getting there

Le Bon Marché
38, rue de Sèvres
Métro: Sèvres-Babylone (lines 12 or 10)

Tip: I recommend staying on track by taking the number 12 Métro, because this line snakes through other popular shopping meccas like Abbesses, Saint-Germain (Métro Rue du Bac), Boulevard Haussmann (Métro Saint-Lazare) and Rue de Rennes.

But watch your step when exiting at Sèvres-Babylone because the mere sight of the “Le Bon Marché” sign atop the old building has never failed to make this Cheapo’s knees begin to buckle.

Back in the day

“The cathedral of modern commerce!” is how Émile Zola neatly described Le Bon Marché (“the good deal”) in his novel Le Bonheur des Dames. The store was the first to launch fixed pricing, welcome stations staffed with English-speaking personal shoppers, and self-service. Soon faire du lèche-vitrine (“window licking”) became all the rage.

Andrée Putman's chic escalators

Though now taken for granted, at the time, its newfangled open-door retail concept meant that even prostitutes could shop here with ease. Both seductive and alluring, Bon Marché’s open aisles of enticing wares were often blamed for bankrupting families and inciting spontaneous shoplifting.

Fine features

Initially designed by Gustave Eiffel and Paul Sédille (who beautified Printemps, too), Bon Marché has maintained her radiant glow by getting a little work done now and then. It’s no secret that Andrée Putman (also credited with the extreme makeover of Guerlain’s flagship on the Champs-Élysées and the swanky interiors of Air France’s late, great Concord jet) recently updated the store’s look with sets of crisscrossing escalators. Surrounded by slender columns, the moving stairs’ geometric patterns smartly echo the skylight’s square glass panes.

Oh, the brands you’ll see

Though no longer considered quite the palace of “good deals” it was back in the time of Picasso and Hemingway (who bought his knock-off suits here), Le Bon Marché is still the place to window-gawk and trend-spot. You’ll find classics like Balenciaga, Lanvin, and Sonia Rykiel, along with funky designs by Comme des Garcons, Paul & Joe and Sandro.

On the ground level, be wooed by “Le Théatre de la Beauté,” which specializes in just-launched, innovative, and difficult-to-find beauty products. So prior to your visit, do a little research and pack a wish list! Make your friends at home green with envy.

Then, fortify yourself

After your high browsing, you do have a few Cheapo options!

1. Eat

In a separate part of Bon Marché, La Grande Epicerie de Paris (the world’s largest international food labyrinth) seems to have everything to satisfy every taste bud, both domestic and foreign. Wine and fromage tastings are often held on Fridays and Saturdays, while the Babylon Garden is just in front of the store, so stock up and prepare to nosh like there’s no tomorrow!

At La Grande Epicerie de Paris

2. Shop

After your picnic, get your bargain garb on at Zara, situated kitty-corner from Bon Marché. Find the trends you’ve just spotted at a fraction of the cost. Your pocketbook and conscience will both thank you.

3. Pray

But if your conscience is still troubled, just behind Bon Marché you’ll find the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal. Here’s a chance to balance out your mortal sins (like lust, gluttony, envy, to name a few) with a visit to Saint Catherine Labouré’s shrine.

The lady Herself is on full view in a glass case at the front of the sanctuary. Among other things, she’s credited with designing one of the most popular of saints’ medals, which are available on-site. The shop also carries a collection of cards.

Snipping from “Bon Marché Weather,” a poem by Gertrude “Lady Dada” Stein:

“There are a very great many things everybody is buying. There are a very great many things you are buying. There are a very great many things they are buying. There are a very great many things I am buying.”

She lived just a few blocks away, so I’m sure she was speaking from experience.

Smooth sailing, Cheapos!

The post Paris: Summer shopping at Le Bon Marché appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

1. Twinkle: Bright lights, dig the city

First, take in the lights with a brisk stroll around town, and then warm up with “un vin chaud” or crack open a toasty crème brûlée out on the terrace of a lively bar or café. Forget about the elements. The glowing overhead braziers, impromptu sing-alongs, and people-watching will keep you warm. For the city’s official street-illumination map, click here.

Taking in the festive scene at a café

2. Tower: Bon Anniversaire, Madame Eiffel!

Continuing to celebrate her 120th birthday in style, la Tour Eiffel is not just sparkling for the usual five minutes on the hour, but she’s also encoring with a 12-minute super-cool LED light show nightly at 8, 9, 10, and 11 PM. My favorite spots for tower-gazing are just below Sacré Coeur at Rue Azaïs and rue Saint-Eleuthère, and beside the Palais de Tokyo.

Breaking News! For the first time ever, advance tickets for Eiffel Tower visits are now available online! Check out their booking site.

3. Window Shopping: Here comes the Hotstepper

Promenade up and down Boulevard Haussmann, while getting an eyeful of the grand magasins’ “vitrines de Noël” (holiday windows). This year, Chanel and Dior outfitted Printemps’ Russian-inspired windows, while rabbits, dollies, and bears (oh, my) cavort next door at Galeries Lafayette in tableaux by designers Gaultier, Kenzo, and Marc Jacobs.

The one-ring Cirque d’hiver Bouglione

Also, let’s not forget the smaller shops! Often restaurants, pâtisseries, boutiques, and even pharmacies hire artists to create whimsical murals. And keep your eyes peeled for neighborhood “concours de décorations de vitrines” (window decorating contests).

4. Holiday Circus: Time flies!

Treat yourself to an old-time spectacle at the one-ring Cirque d’hiver Bouglione (Metro: Oberkampf). Just think—Degas, Seurat, and Toulouse-Lautrec sat on these same red-velvet seats! Celebrating the 150-year anniversary of the flying trapeze, invented in 1859 by dashing acrobat Jules Léotard (thank him for creating the garment too!), this year the Bouglione circus family is paying homage to its roots with a “Festif” show, jammed-packed with traditional acts.

Tip: The seats in the very last row are just €10—but it’s worth every cent to be up close.

5. Ice Skating: Watch that figure!

Prepare for the 2010 Olympic Winter Games by taking a few spins around the ice rinks in front of the Hotel de Ville or Gare Montparnasse. Let Johnny be-Weir! The admission is free. Skate rental is €5, cash only. Know your European shoe size numbers. There’s no charge for sideline watching.

The decadent displays at l’épiceries Fauchon

6. Concert: The bells are ringing!

During the holidays, you’ll find no shortage of Vivaldi, Mozart, Chopin, Lizst, or Bach! Time is going to be your only issue. So pick up a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. In it you’ll find a listing of free concerts and other holiday events. (Read about classical music discounts.)

Why, oh, why is l’église de la Madeleine my choice for classical concerts? Because, Cheapos, the tantalizing window displays of l’épiceries Fauchon are near!

7. Christmas Markets: What’s good for the goose

During the holidays, the winter markets, with their quaint boxes, tents, and chalets, are found in nearly every square. Follow the smell of “chaud les marrons” (chestnuts roasting on an open fire!). This is also the place to grab a quick hearty meal. Try the Alsatian “choucroute garnie” or the Belgian waffles. You’ll also find delectable regional specialties such as foie gras, honey, and champagne.

Tip: After marketing at the Saint-Germain-des-Prés Winter Village, meander over to the Bar du Marché at 75, rue de Seine, and clank a few with locals! Look for the candy-striped awning.

Happy Holidays, Cheapos! (And special thanks to Jessica Hines for the Cirque d’hiver photograph!)

The post 7 tips for spending the Christmas holiday in Paris appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Check out the atrium.

Now sporting a chic modern look that nevertheless manages to pay homage to her expansive Belle Époque days, Printemps’ new three-level atrium is finally open to the public. Window lickers (as the French call window shoppers—”lèche-vitrine”) of the world, unite.

Heads up, Cheapos! A special unveiling of the store’s newly-restored façade, along with its notorious holiday window displays, happens on November 12, 2009. And there are still more wonders are yet to come!

Équipe (“team”) effort

On the case is the Canadian architectural firm Yabu Pushelberg. (Toronto duo George Yabu and Glenn Pushelberg were also responsible for New York City’s Tiffany & Co. Wall Street, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman’s impressive good looks.) No holds were barred, as roughly €70 million have been poured into Printemps’ extensive interior and exterior revamping. The rest of the project’s completion is slated for spring 2010.

A rather large bag.

Like a dream

Meanwhile you’ll be dazzled by the recently installed super-cool (and eco-friendly) LED lighting system that illuminates and opens up the heart of the store: the center atrium. Resembling an oversized Lucite box, this pleasing eye candy is decked out in slick marble, sleek bands of iced chrome, and live trees that sprout multi-colored handbags. Ma joie!

Jutting out between the bustling, zigzagging escalators are towering cubbyholes (three stories high) stuffed with shiny fab accessories, just enough out of reach to tantalize. But one can always dream, can’t one?

Don’t skip the loo, my darlings

Check out “the first luxury public toilets” by Point WC (as touted on their website). One euro buys you private seating in a water closet lit by rose-colored lights, and handsomely stocked with shocking fluorescent toilet tissues in pinks, greens, and blues.

Skip to the loo!

You can’t miss the €1800 price tag for the commode, but happily you don’t have to buy it to experience it! Cosmetics for touch-ups, souvenir rolls of toilet tissue, and even beverages are available at the Point WC welcome desk.

Yes, I know, life is good–and with flattering lighting to boot. So make a beeline! Stopping by the loo has never been more fun or stylish! (BTW, you’ll also find a Point WC at the Carrousel du Louvre.)

The post Paris: A tour of the remodeled Printemps department store appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.