Cuckoo for classic French dishes, pots and pans? Join the club! I, too, possess a mad penchant for collecting kitchenware from yesterday. Fret not, I’m okay! You’re okay!

So where to find the beauties in Paris? I recommend trekking it to the Porte de Vanves flea market. I’ve been shopping here for over a decade because the wares are eclectic and the prices are affordable. Tip! Create a shopping wish list. Visualization will help you narrow your hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your cuisine dreams!

Setting the bar high.

Flashback!

Old French kitchenware has always been souvenir-worthy. In fact, an antique mortar and pestle was one of Julia Child’s first flea market purchases after she moved to Paris.

“The mortar was made of dark-gray marble, and was about the size and weight of a baptismal font,” she wrote. “One look at it, and I knew there was no question: I just had to have that set.” That very mortar and pestle, along with other kitchenware she brought back from France is now on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.

1. Vintage barware

Prepared to be bug-eyed at the market’s groovy mix of ice buckets, ashtrays, glasses, and bottle openers, all sporting logos of old-fashioned French bar favorites like Suze, Ricard, Pastis 51, and Picon.

Un peu de café?

Looking for something specific? I’d kick off the quest with dealers Danielle and Pierre Aurillon. They’re personable, and have been with the market for decades. Their booth is located just across from the soccer field. While browsing through their funky array of barware, don’t overlook the absinthe spoons, the tastevins (wine taster’s cups, recognizable by the bump in the middle) or the glazed wine pitchers.

2. Pots and Pans

Here at the flea market you’ll find a slew of Julia Child’s favorite (and highly coveted) Le Creuset cookware but drastically discounted compared to what it costs outside of France. Made to last forever, it hardly matters if it’s “used.” I’ve been able to find cast iron ovens, au gratin pans and chef skillets, along with enameled-iron sauce and sauté pans—all vintage and well loved.

Copper equipment will also seduce you. Feeling all Proustian, I’ve also picked up madeleine pans with their telltale shell-shaped molds. Is there such a thing as too many? Not in my book, and not in Proust’s either, apparently.

Le Creuset alert!

3. One dish, two dish

As you make your way through the flea market, keep your eyes peeled for classic crème brûlée ramekins, café au lait bowls, soup tureens (with handles) and escargot tongs, along with the little dimpled metal pans you cook the snails in. Quiche and soufflé dishes also rise to the top here. Don’t let minor chips and scratches keep you at bay. I firmly believe that yesteryear’s wear’n’tear adds value. “Everything has a history,” as Julia would say.

Currently I’m on the hunt for historical plates. Royally kitschy, they’re perfect for desert and salad, and they’ve never failed to ignite dinner party conversation. Collecting them like baseball cards, so far I’ve been able to find enough royals for everyone at a table of eight to have their own doppelganger from Versailles. Once I locate the Sun King, the world will be my oyster. Do let me know if you spot him!

Never too many Madeleine pans...

4. Flatware

If obsessively buying dozens of silver-plated knives, forks and spoons is wrong, I don’t want to be right. I’m hooked. Decked out in intricate Art Deco and Art Nouveau patterns, each one typically costs only one or two euros. Do they need to match? Not on my table. If you’re into a little tarnish and exquisite patina, well then, pull up a chair and start sorting. The “keepers” go to the left.

Tip: During your flea market jaunt, also keep your eyes open wide for other classic French table items like linens, breadbaskets cutting boards and cheese molds, not to mention pepper mills, candle stick holders, and wire baskets—the latter were once used for collecting (and rinsing) eggs or slinging salad lettuce dry. Soon you will be just a-swingin’, Cheapos!

Clipping from Julia, “Toujours Bon Appétit!” Happy hunting!

Elsewhere in our guide: If you’re also hunting for a great inexpensive place to stay during your trip to Paris, be sure to stop by our Paris guide. You’ll find more than 100 recommended budget hotels, all visited, inspected and reviewed by our Paris-based correspondents. Read more.

The post Paris: Shopping for vintage kitchenware at the Porte de Vanves flea market appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

But first, let’s look to Oscar Wilde for a little inspiration. After all, our favorite writer and clotheshorse was also the editor of The Woman’s World magazine way back in the original New Romantic 1880s. Wearing a puffy shirt and breeches (he dismissed trousers as “boring tubes”), along with a smoking jacket and one green carnation, he quipped, “It is only the shallow people who do not judge by appearances.”

Touché, Monsieur Wilde! (Who happens to be permanently in residence at Pere Lachaise cemetery, by the way.)

Related: Tips for saving big on a Paris shopping spree

Nadine at Dam, Dim, Dom

1. Abbesses
Metro: Abbesses, 18th arrondissement

Nadine’s Dam Dim Dom at 18 Rue Damrémont is my new favorite vintage shop. Maybe it’s her well-organized collection of clothing, or perhaps it’s the film memorabilia on the walls (watch out for Godard, Anna Karina and Bridget Bardot). Or perhaps, just perhaps, it was her swell words when I asked to try on a black trench coat, “It will look especially lovely on you, because you’re so slim.” Now that’s costumer service!

Looking for something specific? Ask Nadine. She carries affordable labels, along with high-ticket designer brands. At the moment, I’ve got my eye on a Jean-Charles de Castelbajac scarf, and I’ll buy it as soon as my ship comes in—as my grandmother Helen Wentz would say. Castelbajac also designed the current Eiffel Tower uniforms, strikingly stylish in olive green with bright orange piping!

Hooked and need another fix? Make a beeline to Le Caverne à Fripes at 25 rue Houdon. Here the inventory is eclectic and may seem chaotic, but don’t let looks fool you. The collection is quite organized. After a few minutes, you’ll recognize the system: shirts to the left and skirts on the right, while party dresses hang in the back and slacks are stacked in the middle.

At first the shop gives the impression that the owner is nowhere to be found, but look again—almost buried in amongst the clothing and camouflaged in vintage togs himself you’ll find proprietor Patrick Lambert either chatting with neighbors or reading a novel as Broadway music plays on in the background.

If you’re on a quest for a specific treasure, don’t hesitate to ask Monsier Lambert. He once helped me pick out the perfect vinyl green belt (very shiny and studded, circa 1960s) to accessorize a black maxi dress (made in France, circa 1970s). Cost? €15 for the pair. (And later, the envious looks at the party? Priceless.)

2. Marais
Metro: Saint-Paul, 4th arrondissement

My friend Caroline Simonds, founder of “Le Rire Medecin” (a troupe of hospital clowns), introduced me to both Boutique King of Frip at 14 rue Vieille du Temple and Vintage Désir on 32 rue des Rosiers during my quest for a striped shirt for my dad. Described by Papa Hemingway as “very stiff and built for hard wear but softened by washings,” both shops have beaucoup de Breton stripes.

Cheapos, Caroline also highly recommends the smoked turkey or pastrami sandwiches at Florence Finkelstein on nearby 24 rue des Ecouffes!

Martine’s booth at the Porte de Vanves flea market.

3. Porte de Vanves Flea Market
Metro: Porte de Vanves, 14th arrondissement

Gather around, Cheapos! Here’s where I find most of my retro treasures, each typically costing €5 – €20. Throughout the flea market, you’ll find tables, racks and boxes of vintage clothes, along with accessories like costume jewelry, bags and belts, hats, sunglasses and shoes. Looking for old copies of fashion magazines like Elle and Marie Claire? They’re in abundance, too.

Always one to boast, my recent flea market finds included two pairs of Ted Lapidus hexagonal sunglasses for €2 a pop! I’ve also found three pairs of ski pants from the 1960s in vibrant, mouthwatering Pucci-licious colors like yellow, tangerine, and turquoise blue by Fus Europ. All with their original hand-written price tags still hanging from the hip, and none cost more than €1. I know!

Tips: Looking for a specific item? Pop by Martine’s booth. She’s been with the flea market for decades, and vintage clothing is her number one passion. Her booth is located on avenue Georges Lafenestre, across the street Piscine Didot. Keep your eyes peeled for her mannequins. (Read more about Martine and my other favorite dealers at the flea market.)

The flea market opens around 8:00 a.m. and the dealers are packing up to leave before noon. So arrive early, carry cash and bring a sturdy bag for your finds. By the way, just after you leave the Métro station, you’ll find an ATM machine, a patisserie and a café with a WC. (Read more tips for flea market success.)

Good Bill hunting, Cheapos!

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Delightful dealers

A cheapo bonanza!

This week I’ll introduce you to a few of my favorite dealers at the flea market. What makes them so extraordinary? I’ve known them for nearly ten years, and they’ve always been witty, kind and incredibly personable. Also, whenever I’ve been away for a stretch of time, they’ll greet me with un petit cadeau (little gift) or discount. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: the locals value loyalty and repeat business—fidélité—as much as anything.

Besides, their objects of beauty, kitschy goods, and vibrant wares have always been reasonably priced, too. So keep your eyes peeled for these superstar dealers (and your future friends) at the Puces! Most of them have been showing up at the century-old Porte de Vanves for decades. Their location changes depending on the day, so study these photos! Have a question or looking for a specific item? Do ask—and tell ’em you’re a Cheapo!

Getting there

Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves (Porte de Vanves Flea Market)
Metro: Port de Vanves, line 13
Days and hours: Every Saturday and Sunday 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Web site

Catherine and her kitsch

As the flea market opens at 7 a.m., and the dealers start packing up to leave around noon, get your beauty rest, and arrive early! Carry cash and a sturdy bag for your finds. By the way, just beyond the Métro station, you’ll find an ATM machine, a patisserie, and a café with a WC.

I’ll wait for you inside the cozy Le Fournil de Vanves Patisserie. Why do I love this place? Because whenever I’ve spent all my coins over at the flea market, they’ve never, ever complained about breaking a big euro bill—even for a cookie sale!

Okay! Finish the cookie before it crumbles, and let’s shop till we drop!

Looking for kitsch in all the right places?

Catherine has got you covered. Through the years, she’s helped me build a fantastical and oh, so hip vintage sunglass collection! Today I was able to score a glow-in-dark Mary statue for just one euro! I attempted to also buy a few marbles, but she threw them in the bag and whispered the magic word, “cadeau” with a wink! She’s been with Porte de Vanves for nearly 22 years! “I was just a baby,” when I started she said with a big laugh. I like her. And you’ll appreciate her humor and discounts, too!

Looking for fine vintage duds?

The fashionable and super-cute Martine has been with the flea market for a decade. I always make a point of popping by her booth because her prices are so reasonable and I find her family of mannequins so charming! You’ve seen them, Cheapos. I’ve featured them here in previous stories. This time, however, they were fully clothed! And Martine agreed to pose for a stylish family portrait! Oh, la la! Again, if you’re on a quest for something special, ask Martine! Vintage clothing is her life passion.

Dial “M” for magnificent

Golly, I’ve photographed this booth many times because of the colors they use! Besides being photogenic, the objects are quite interesting. More than once I’ve spent a full hour at their table. Danielle and Pierre (pictured, top) have been with the flea market for 25 years.

“We price to sell, not keep,” Danielle told me today. It’s true! All items are reasonably priced. They specialize in vintage perfume bottles, barware, kitchen ceramics, tools, and other objects of curiosity. Need a conversational piece for the office or home? Here’s your stop! Again, laughter and good cheer reign here! It’s contagious.

Serge holds the key(ring)

New obsession

And speaking of big giggles and blushes, my name is Theadora, and I have a new flea market obsession. I’ve seen them for years, but I’ve never been drawn to them. They’ve never screamed my name until last week at Serge’s booth. Cheapos, I’m now head over heels in love with French vintage advertising key chains. I know! Weird, eh? In ten minutes (one hour in flea market time), I went from zero to fifteen!

My absolute favorite is one from a little dress shop called “Fifi’s.” Inside is a miniature 3-d metallic red dress, circa (I’m guessing) the early Sixties. I blame the rather handsome Serge! You see, each one cost one euro, BUT if you purchase seven, well then, the total is just 5 euros. Get the addictive picture? He’ll even give you a basket, a chair, and if it’s cold—he’ll lend you his gloves. Do stop by and say hello to Serge!

While you’re at it, do stop by and say hello to Catherine, Martine, Pierre, and Danielle, too! Stay tuned for more Porte de Vanves profiles! I suppose you can tell that I love this place? Clipping from Holly Golightly, like Tiffany’s, it feels like nothing ever bad could ever happen to you here.

Happy hunting, Cheapos! Got a flea market question? Bring it on!

The post Paris: Dealers to meet at the Porte de Vanves flea market appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Porte de Vanves Flea Market

If you only have time to visit one flea market during your trip to Paris, I’d suggest heading to the The Porte de Vanves Flea Market on Saturday or Sunday morning.  The market stretches for blocks along Avenue Marc Sangnier and around the corner on Avenue Georges Lafenestre on the southern border of Paris.

The Porte de Vanves market isn’t dirt-cheap, but you can bargain, the “coolness quotient” is pretty high, and even just looking is plenty of fun.

The city’s flea markets were started in the late 19th century by the infamous “rag and bone men” (forerunners of today’s “dumpster divers”), and today you’re likely to find anything from trinkets to treasures.

On a typical trip, you’ll probably spot plenty of plastic key chains,   postcards,  religious tokens, and old magazines. But you might also uncover vintage designer clothes, agate cigarette holders, swanky barware, retro bistro tables, ancient archaeological treasures, and perhaps even a genuine Old Masters (even the occasional world-class find—Monet’s, Utrillo’s and Cocteau paintings, have been known to pop up here from time to time!).

Tips for flea market success

Here are a few tips to get the most out of the experience and make the most of your hard-earned euro:

1. Arrive early.

The Porte de Vanves flea market opens at 7 AM on Saturdays and Sundays and the dealers start packing up to leave at noon. An ATM is located near the “Boulevard Brune” exit from the Porte de Vanves Metro, and just around the corner on the way to the market is a patisserie where you can grab a flaky, heart-shaped palmier for breakfast.

2. Carry cash.

If you can, organize a small “till” the night before. I usually carry €30 in coins and small bills.

3. Know some key phrases in French.

Practicing some key phrases like “Combien ça?” (How much is that?) and “Accepteriez-vous une euro?” (Will you take one euro?) will carry you far.

Keep a sense of humor and don’t be afraid to walk away if the dealer won’t budge. Chances are that he’ll counter offer before you get far. It also helps if you learn French numbers prior to your trip. (Of course, this will help outside the flea market, too!)

Related: How to save on a Paris shopping spree

4. Bring along a sturdy bag.

Grocery stores like Champion sell lightweight fiber-cloth bags in bright colors for less than a euro and they last for years.

5. Arrive with a mission.

It’s great to have a “quest” in mind, since visualization helps narrow your hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your desire.

6. Pace yourself.

Don’t buy the first thing you see, since you may spot a cheaper, similar item later on. And don’t dawdle—the market stretches for about eight or ten blocks. When you get to the snack wagon on the corner you’re halfway. You can always go back and snag something if it’s still calling your name on the way back.

7. Look for the bargain tables.

These are usually marked with hand-written signs like, “TOUT À €1 CETTE TABLE.” (Anything on the table for one euro.)

8. Boast about your bargains.

Last week I found a gorgeous hand-painted Venetian tray for €2. Tell me what you find! Bon chance!

Practical Info

Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves (Porte de Vanves Flea Market)
Metro: Port de Vanves, line 13
Days and hours: Every Saturday and Sunday 7 AM—1 PM

Other flea markets

Since the Porte de Vanves market is open only on weekend mornings, hit it before trying the other markets. If this only whets your appetite, hop on the 95 bus near the patisserie and ride it clear across Paris to the Porte de Clignancourt flea market, which stays open till 7 PM. Or visit the Clignancourt or Porte de Montreuil fleas on Monday.

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