Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché

So fire up your printers, Cheapos! Here’s the agenda for the first day of our shop ’til you drop campaign of Napoleonic proportions!

Tips

Do pack one oversized bag for your goods. While the multiple-shopping bag scene with Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman” is charming and all, you’re just inviting advances from pickpockets. Most grocery store chains sell durable large bags for just a few cents. Franprix’s current model was inspired by Mondrian!

Also, for the love of saving both time and money, purchase your Metro tickets by the “carnet” (10-pack) before you set out.

Galeries Lafayette’s dome

10:00 a.m.: Abbesses
Metro: Abbesses, line 12

After a short run around the Sacré Coeur ’hood to help Wen shake the jet lag blues, we headed to Sympa for some bargain bin shopping. This string of shops runs along rue de Steinkerque, a street once notorious for its brothels and dance halls. (Picasso shopped here!)

On this day we were able to score some slinky black tops by Carling, each costing €2.99 a pop! Confession: I bought twelve, and my sister purchased nine. Heads-up: Etam’s frilly spring 2011 line of lingerie is currently on sale for just a few euros apiece!

11:00 a.m.: 140 bis, rue de Rennes
Metro: Rennes, line 12

We then soared to Zara at the Félix Potin building (an Art Nouveau masterpiece) on the bustling rue de Rennes. It’s a pet Zara hot spot because the location usually serves as one of last stops for the chain’s leftover winter clothing sales.

Commes des Garcons’ exhibit at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile

Here my sister scooped up a classic belted trench coat, along with seven cap-sleeved turtle necks, all costing just €3.99 a piece. By this victorious moment, the woozy feeling of jet lag had completely abandoned the scene. Yes, sometimes fleeting joy CAN be bought!

12 noon: Bon Marché
Metro: Sevres-Babylone, line 12

After grabbing soda pops just outside the Rennes metro stop, we fast-trekked to the Christian Dior exhibition at Bon Marché. Decked out in Dior’s beloved white and grey, the exhibit was made up of iconic “New Look” ensembles, photographs, and super hip multimedia projections on oversized accessories like chairs, mannequins and hat boxes. After a few spins around the gallery, we snagged a few sweets at the Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché, which is just behind the main building.

Wendy’s new coat

Please note: the Dior exhibit closes March 26, 2011, so if you’re in Paris now, hotfoot it there right away. Not in Paris? Fret not, because the department store often coordinates free exhibits. There will be more to come!

1:30 p.m.: Carrousel du Louvre
Metro: Louvre Rivoli, line 1

Feeling the sugar rush, we raced to the “Les années 1900-2000” exhibition at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile. Our favorite showstoppers included Jean Paul Gaultier’s plumes, Junya Watanabe’s unstoppable bustles, and Comme des Garcons’ bulges in all the wrong places.

Afterwards, we had a wonderful, marvelous photo-op at the Arc-de-Triomphe du Carrousel. Film buffs, this is where the iconic balloon scene in “Funny Face” with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire was shot. ‘S Marvelous!

3:30 p.m.: Samaritaine at Pont Neuf
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

Spotting a few dramatic-looking rain clouds heading our way, we made a joint decision to promenade swiftly down rue de Rivoli to Zara’s other “last stop” for sale items, located in the former Samaritaine department store at Chatêlet.

After ogling its spectacular exterior, we nipped into Zara where Wen picked up a few more turtlenecks (Can you ever have enough? I don’t think so!), and I scored a fur-lined vest and a thick green felt dress, both costing just €6.

4:30 p.m.: Pont Neuf and Saint Germain
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

We then made our way to the Pont Neuf to pay homage to King Henri IV (a.k.a. “Le Vert Galant”), and yes, to check out his boots. Green with envy and fatigue, we slowly crept across the bridge, limping toward Saint Germain des Prés.

The dapper monarch’s benediction must have been with us because in no time at all we found ourselves seated in a cozy boutique, surrounded by hundreds of boots, all on sale. The proprietor was extremely personable, helping my sister find the boots of her dreams. The boots? On Sale. The Cendrillon (Cinderella) experience? Priceless.

View from the flat at l’heure bleu

6:00 p.m.: Boulevard Haussmann
Metro: Havre-Caumartin, line 7

Losing both daylight and any remaining feeling in our feet (or “dogs” as my grandmother Wentz would say), we ended our whirlwind day trip by paying a call on those Belle Époque beauties, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on Boulevard Haussmann.

After an ogle and a gaze at GL’s amazing dome, we stopped by its gourmet shop, where we loaded up with bread, Cantal cheese, and a bottle of crisp white Cheverny. Then we slowly hobbled back to Saint-Lazare, where we caught line 12 back to Abbesses, just in time for l’heure bleu (twilight), more sister bonding, and planning for the next day!

The post Paris: A fashion fanatic’s (Cheapo-friendly) shopping tour appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Book browsing along the Seine.

Getting there

The Saint-Michel Metro stop will allow for a little bouquiniste browsing as you make your way. Along with a book, pick up a sandwich at a nearby boulangerie or even a compact but oh so filling crêpe fromage! I’m not the first to propose the tip of the Île de la Cité as the perfect spot for a little pic-a-necking, and I certainly won’t be the last.

The bridge: Pont Neuf

Still curvaceous and fabulous at 403-years-old, the “New Bridge” is actually the oldest standing bridge in Paris. Created by Henri IV, it was the first to be built without houses or shops (i.e., “firetraps”) lining it.

As the king of the original urban re-do, Henri also banned timber construction throughout the city, promoted symmetry in its public architecture, connected the Tuileries with the Louvre, and created Paris’s first city square! Thank Henri’s Place des Vosges for getting the party started in the Marais. Even today, this very stylish square is still a prime place to see and be seen.

Henri IV, avec cheval

As you promenade across the bridge, stop and cool your heels in one of its nook-like bastions. Originally these niches were created for the safety of pedestrians seeking to avoid being run over by passing carriages clattering madly by.

Jolly Green Giant: Statue of Henri IV

The bridge cuts across the island connecting the Right and Left Banks of the river. In its very center, you’ll find a huge bronze statue of Henri IV on horseback. Some folks consider the square around it the very center of Western Civilization. I don’t know about that, but I can vouch for it as a great place to make momentous decisions. See, Cheapos, this is where my paramour proposed to me! (I accepted.)

You’ll find the King’s square directly below. Just follow the steps.

Le Square du Vert-Galant

What’s in a name? Le Square du Vert-Galant

For the love of vitality, admiration, and gossip, Parisians gave the little tear-drop-shaped park the flamboyant King’s nickname, “Vert-Galant,” or “Gay Blade,” since he was larger than life, compassionate, and wildly loved. Mad about music, wine and women, Henri would horse around here with his friends, entertainers, and favorite mistress, Gabrielle d’Estrée. As he liked to say, “Great cooking and great wines make a paradise on earth!”

And speaking of big appetites, this is also where Hemingway relaxed with books, wine, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “and often they made excellent catches of the dace-like fish that were called goujon. They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.” For more park ideas, read about our seven favorite parks.

Tip of the Île de la Cité

The tip of the Ile de la Cite

Just beyond the le Square du Vert-Galant, you’ll find the downstream tip of the Île de la Cité. Pick a spot on the stone ledge and then settle yourself down for some smooth bateaux-cruise watching from underneath the weeping willow. I’ve been told that this tree is always the first in Paris to leaf out each spring! Notre-Dame, the Louvre, and the (currently closed) grand magasin Samaritaine pop up like a panoramic all-star photo shoot surrounding you.

Clipping from Hemingway, Cheapos, “There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.”

The post Paris Place: Le Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of the Ile de la Cité appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Regardless, there’s quite a bit to be said for the real bridges (“ponts“) in Paris. Join us, as we stroll from the Ile St. Louis to the Eiffel Tower, crossing over some of the city’s best bridges.

A river runs under it

Bicycle man

We start at the Pont Sully (built 1876), at the very eastern edge of the Ile St. Louis. Down below on the banks, this section of the isle is an ideal location for sunbathers on a clear day. After gazing out to the east of Paris, take a stroll westward through what has become one of the city’s most fashionable addresses.

The Pont St. Louis (completed 1970) is a tiny bridge connecting the Ile St. Louis with the Ile de la Cité. It sits in the shadow of Notre Dame, across the street from one of the many places selling the famous Berthillon ice cream (though not the original, at 31 rue St. Louis en Ile). This bridge is prime real estate for musicians and other street performers. On a recent afternoon, a crazy French clown and his amazing trick bicycle entertained a crowd of a few dozen, while a rock band was only too glad to take over once the clown’s show finished.

Everything old is new again

Continuing west off the Ile de la Cité, the next major bridge is the Pont Neuf. Despite it’s name, it’s actually the oldest bridge in Paris, completed in 1607. Just north of the bridge is the Samaritaine department store, closed since 2005 for safety-related renovations. The tip of the island to the west of the Pont Neuf is popular with picnickers. Although alcohol is officially “interdit,” gendarmes tend to look the other way if you pour your beverage into cups and hide the bottle.

Looking towards the Pont des Arts

No cars allowed

Following the Seine west, the next bridge we encounter is the Pont des Arts (completed 1984), an iconic footbridge anchored by the Louvre on one side and the Institut de France on the other. Taking a cue from the bridge’s name, many artists and craftsmen set up shop here to display their creations.

A little ways down is another pedestrian bridge, today called the Passerelle Léopold Sédar Senghor after the first president of Senegal and the first African to be a part of the Academie française. Completed in its latest incarnation in 1999, this bridge arcs right down to the edge of the Seine.

Bridging the gap

The Paris city hall website calls the Pont Alexandre III “Paris’s most elegant bridge.” It can be a little hard to appreciate the fine sculpture work, however, with all the cars and buses roaring up from the Avenue de Maréchal Galliéni. The bridge was built between 1896 and 1900.

Between the Pont Alexandre III and the Eiffel Tower there is not much to see aside from the Passerelle Debilly, a pedestrian bridge built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Still, a walk along the southern bank of the Seine is quite pleasant, as it’s mostly a tree-lined strip of a park.

La Tour Eiffel

Get over it

We have finally reached the Pont d’Iéna (completed 1814), which was originally conceived to commemorate Napoleon’s 1806 victory in the battle of Jena. The bridge is an excellent spot for taking photos of the Eiffel Tower. Across the river, the steps of the Palais de Chaillot are probably the best place to watch the tower’s evening light show that takes place every hour from sunset to 1 AM (2 AM in summer).

Your favorite bridge?

Do you have a favorite bridge in Paris? How about a favorite spot along the Seine? Tell us in the comments section below.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

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