To avoid hearing me groan when you tell me what you paid for your sandwich, here’s a list of suggested “price ceilings” for some Parisian basics. It’s a good list to keep handy to save a few euros or, you know, if you’re ever a contestant on a French version of “The Price is Right”…

1. Glass of wine

While beer and cocktails can dent the wallet pretty quickly, wine should never be too expensive in a standard café or bar. Avoid the more specialized wine shops and wine bars and opt for a glass of red or white at a more low-key joint. Limit: €4

2. Steak frites

Most cafés and bistrots serve traditional yet affordable French fare. From the well-traveled but enjoyable Chartier to the classic Les Philosophes in the Marais, a cut of meat and frites shouldn’t be a splurge. Limit: €18

3. Walking/bike tour

With multiple free walking tour options, some tourists prefer a private tour to explore the city more intimately. With dozens of choices out there, it’s hard to pick. A walking tour with Oui Paris Tours or a bike tour with Fat Tire is a great, affordable way to get to know the city. Limit: €30

4. Electronics adapter

Many a traveler forgets that outlets and plugs are different in Europe. Souvenir and electronic stores sell adapters to make your chargers fit into the wall outlets, but the cheapest ones can be found at BHV, the all-purpose department store in the Marais. Limit: €10

5. Crepe/Sandwich

Street food can be found everywhere, so prices are competitive. At lunchtime, the choice often comes down to a sandwich or a crepe. For a gooey ham and cheese crepe or a chicken and veggie sandwich, I never worry about having enough money. Limit: €5

6. Clothing

With wintertime approaching, having appropriate socks (ones without holes) seems important. Unprepared visitors often wonder where to get the latest Parisian fashion as they shiver in their tee shirts. Do like the Parisians do and head to the closest H&M or, better yet, to Japanese department store Uniqlo by the Opera Garnier for some good shopping and great site-seeing. Limit: €40 pants, €40 sweater, €3 socks

7. Café

Instead of 7-11 and Dunkin’ Donuts, the French head to the café for a pick-me-up that won’t break the bank. A café (an espresso) may leave some tourists longing for a cup of Joe, but for mere euros you can squat a seat for as long as you’d like. (Tip: Stand at the cafe’s bar for cheaper prices.) Limit: €2

8. Theatre/Opera tickets

If you packed a top hat or a ball gown anticipating a night at the theatre, there is hope. Last minute “rush” tickets for the Opera Garnier and Bastille are extremely affordable if you are patient enough to line up 2-3 hours before the show. Théâtre du Châtelet, which often hosts musicals like Les Misérables and Sweeney Todd, offers rush tickets up until the minute before curtain. Limit: €30

9. Pastry

Unless you’re going to try the trendiest macaron or a French-style cupcake, pastries are a steal in Paris. Bakeries all over the city will serve up the best flaky croissants, lemon tarts, or apple pastries for mere coins. Limit: €3

10. Entrance to a bar/club

If you choose to go to a bar or club on the Champs-Elysées, good luck to you. Personally, I’d never enter a place that made me pay a cover. There are plenty of nightspots on rue de Lappe by the Bastille or in the winding streets of Montmartre that will keep the budget-conscious partier happy.  Limit: €0

What do you think, Cheapos?  What other price limits can you imagine in Paris? Share your own “price ceilings” in our comments section.

Also in our guide: Planning a trip to Paris? Our editors have inspected, reviewed and photographed Paris’ best inexpensive accommodations. We’ve got picks all over town, in the Latin Quarter, near the Louvre, in the Marais and more central neighborhoods.

The post Paris Prices: The maximum we’d pay for everyday items appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

So I did. Pastry chef, blogger, and author David Lebovitz just launched a new iPhone application last week called “Paris Pastry Shops” that includes 300 of his hand-picked favorite places in Paris to indulge in sweets.

Lebovitz, a favorite resource among expats, tourists and locals, took a few minutes to discuss how to find the right pastries at the right price in the City of Light.

If you found a €2 coin and had a sweet craving, where would you go?

I would probably go to a really good bakery and get a croissant such as the ones listed in the app, like Blé Sucré (Square Trousseau 7, rue Antoine Vollon). Generally you can get one for €1.05, and that’s a really good deal.

What’s the worst way to waste money on pastries or chocolate?

I think people shouldn’t necessarily assume price goes with quality. There are a lot of neighborhood bakeries that make very good pastries but that are not famous and are not Ladurée or Pierre Hermé (which are good, but you can do very well in neighborhood bakeries spending a fraction of the money for exceptional quality).

In the app we tried to include things that were not necessarily well known but were places for people who are a little more adventurous and looking for bargains.

Why an app for the iPhone?

I started a guidebook several years ago and I spoke with several of my publishers who said guidebooks are going out of favor. I figured a lot of people come to France for pastries and chocolates and ice cream, so this was a natural fit.

When smart phones became more prolific, it seemed like the perfect format for this sort of application. It can be updated and readers can add their own favorites and share things. The price of the app is also lower. Plus you can include hundreds and hundreds of photos, so even if you’re not going to Paris you can still enjoy the pastries.

Are there any sweets you don’t like?

I don’t like desserts that are heavily sweetened. I like caramel that’s slightly burnt, lemony things, bitter chocolates. I search for things that are more balanced, things that have a sweet edge.

What’s your favorite splurge?

I would go to Fouquet and get a big box of the chocolate covered spice wafers called “croquantes.” They are addictive and exceptional. I’d get a big tin of those and eat them all by myself.

Favorite neighborhood for sweets?

There’s a high concentration of very good places in the 6th because there are lots of tourists and lots of money there. But I think if you explore the 11th there are lots of good places, like Blé Sucré. I think that this part of Paris is a lot more interesting.

Farthest you’ll travel for a sweet?

I won’t take three Metro lines. Generally two is my maximum. If I have to change more than two Metros I won’t bother.

Do you ever get sick of pastries or chocolate?

Not really. I actually like to taste a lot of things. It’s hard for me to eat a whole pastry. It’s more interesting to try bites of different things. I like bite-sized pastries. I kind of graze, so I’ll sit around and eat little bits and bites of things, instead of an entire cake, which is good for my waistline.

For more information on his new app, check out David’s blog at www.davidlebovitz.com

The post Paris: David Lebovitz reviews Paris’ best pastry shops appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

So this week I’ve taken it to the table, by conducting an impromptu taste testing with three of my favorite food snobs. Scientist Jean-François, filmmaker Peter and writer Véronique all agreed to lend a helping hand, while sipping crisp white wine.

But first things first, Cheapos, let’s meet our contestants!

Ladurée
€15 (per half dozen macarons)
Time spent waiting in line: one hour

Since 1862 Ladurée has been donning pastels like no other. Their shops are sprinkled about the city, including Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 2.

Tip: Every year Ladurée rolls out a “flavor of the year,” along with a matching set of gift boxes. More tidbits: Belle Époch poster artist Jules Chéret designed their Saint-Germain tea salon and shop at 21 Rue Bonaparte. Sex and the City fans, Carrie Bradshaw “ate here” during the season six finale. Also, Ladurée’s pastel colors inspired the color schemes in Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette.

Gérard Mulot
€9 (per half dozen macarons)
Time spent waiting in line: 15 minutes

On the flip side, sparky new kid on the block Gérard Mulot has been pouring on the pizazz with a vibrant palette since 1975. From the day-glo-get-go, Mulot’s shops, macaroons, and gift boxes have been bursting with his trademark set of fluorescent colors.

His shops are located in Saint-Germain des Prés and the Marais, but the main bakery and flagship shop are located at 93 Rue Glacière in the 13th arrondissement.

Tip: Tours of the workshop are offered. Just contact the Glacière shop prior to your visit.

The taste testing

Round one: First impressions

The first round was all about looks, see. Tucked away in Véro’s kitchen, I hid the telltale signs of boxes and bags, and quickly quartered six macarons (three from each contestant). Acting as the impartial moderator, I then presented the samples (organized by flavor) on a white dish (pictured, top), and asked the judges for feedback on the macaron colors. Gut reactions were immediate and judgment was swift.

In living color

“So French, more natural and very chic,” said Véro, describing Ladurée’s soft pastel hues. “Classical,” said Jean-François before he continued. “Those bright ones are tacky and look artificial.” Peter concurred with a filmmaker’s snapshot. “While the vibrant macarons are photogenic, they’re too gaudy-looking.”

And just like that (in no more than two minutes), Ladurée won the first round in the looks-alone department. Ring-a-ding-ding!

Round two: Sweet is the lore

Then, with eyes shut, phase two of the testing got underway. My judges blind-taste-tested each sample, starting with the citron.

“I like this one because it reminds me of my mother’s lemon pie,” said Véro, gesturing toward the Mulot product without knowing which one it was. Both guys concurred, giving the Mulots high marks for their “natural zest.” With his eyes closed, Jean-François couldn’t place the taste of the Ladurée citron sample, while Peter found the same pastel morsels “too sweet and artificial tasting.”

So you can’t judge a book by its cover

After they sampled four more macarons, I revealed the results, which were surprisingly consistent and unanimous.

Here the tables turned, Cheapos. The judges found the Mulot macarons “natural tasting,” “authentic,” and “recognizable,” despite their artificial colors, while they found the Ladurée samples “saccharine” and “artificial,” even though visually they seemed more appealing.

After Mulot was declared the winner of round two, post-game contemplation continued throughout the night with more wine. But of course!

My recommendation?

Try both and be your own judge. To make the game even more interesting, add other famous makers like Arnaud Larher or Pierre Hermé to the mix!

Cheapos, who makes your favorite macaron in Paris?

Have a favorite macaron? Tell us about it in the comments section.

A big thank you goes out to Véronique, Peter and Jean-François! Cheapos, I sprung the taste testing on them at a recent dinner party. They took it seriously and elevated it to another level. Merci!

The post Paris Macaron Taste Test: Ladurée vs Gérard Mulot appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Your fan,
Earl, New York, New York

DEAR Earl: As a lover of sweets, I don’t just nibble and tell, Sweet-tooth, I nibble and yell! So this week, let’s chat about JUST desserts. Here’s a Theadelectable list of my favorite pâtisseries and boulangeries in the City of de-Lights, created to set your taste buds and the (late) summer sun on fire!

Bow Wow Wow, Cheapos, who wants candy?

You better shop around

You’ll find pâtisseries on practically every block in the city, so keep your head and be selective. Feeling all Nancy Drew? I recommend starting your gastronomical quest with window shopping (or lèche-vitrine, “window licking”) because sometimes it is possible to judge a place er, window display. The goods are usually clearly marked with descriptions and prices. Have a question? Just ask. Also, keep your eyes peeled for a line snaking out the door. That’s always a good sign!

Try a little tenderness

Let them eat cake at Le Coquelicot

Receive service without a smile? It happens (though rarely), but don’t take it personally. Rude customer service is hardly limited to France. So if you run into it, either make your purchase anyway or just move on to the next shop. Sometimes, Cheapos, they’re not out to get you, they’re just not into you.

More often than not a wink, smile and a “bonjour” will break the ice. And please note: The places listed below have treated me like a queen for years. Kindness always wins my loyalty and hard-earned euros.

It’s no accident that macarons pop up a lot in this list—after all they’ve been a dessert staple in old Parigi ever since Catherine de Medici introduced them from Italy in the 16th century. Long live the queen!

Gérard Mulot
76 rue de la Seine, 5th Arrond. (Métro: Odéon)
Tel.: + 33 (0)1 43 29 92 83
Web site
5 stars on the Theadelectable scale

Don’t miss the macarons, the petits fours and bright orange boxes Mulot packs them in! I have my friend Sandrine to thank for introducing me to this place. (Sandrine, by the way, taught Kirsten Dunst how to play the harp for the title role in Sofia Coppola’s film, “Marie Antoinette.” But I digress, royally …)

Macarons at Ladurée

Pâtisserie Arnaud Larher
53 Rue Caulaincourt, 18th Arrond. (Métro: Lamark-Caulaincourt)
Tel.: +33 (0)1 42 57 68 08
Web site
5 stars on the Theadelectable scale

Get your zoo on here with their fantastic animal-shaped chocolate sculptures (and the striped brown boxes they come in, recalling the bars of menagerie cages).

Ladurée
21 Rue Bonaparte, 6th Arrond. (Métro: St Germain-des-Prés)
Tel.: + 33 (0)1 44 07 64 87
Web site
Encore, 5 stars!

Ladurée’s pastel-colored macarons (in beautifully illustrated boxes, this time) inspired the color scheme of the set in Coppola’s “Marie Antoinette.” These little cookies make cameo appearances throughout the movie.

Le Coquelicot (“The Poppy”)
24 rue des Abbesses, 18th Arrond. (Métro: Abbesses)
Tel.: + 33 (0)1 46 06 18 77
Web site
Simply Theadelectable!

They raise the bar—with their lemon bars and other Antoinette-worthy petit fours! Champagne, anyone?

Léonidas Chocolatier
65 rue de Rennes, 6th Arrond. (Métro: Saint-Sulpice)
Tel.: +33 (0)1 42 22 00 52

18 rue Lepic, 18th Arrond. (Métro Pigalle)
Tel.: + 33 (0)1 53 28 48 31
Web site
Five-o-rama!

More than famous for their sparkling (and tasty) Eiffel Tower sculptures, royal cameo candies and metallic covered chocolate hearts!

The post Paris: 5 pâtisseries to satisfy your sweet tooth appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Visiting one of the finest food capitals of the world, a place chock-full of bountiful “Bon Produits” (specialty shops), all managed by certified gastronomical experts who are more than willing to share their vast wealth of knowledge, is abso-fruga-lute-ly not the time to shop at a chain grocery store in order to save a few centimes.

Splurge on a café.

So take in all those wonderful boulangeries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, glaciers, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés with a clear conscience. And don’t be shy. Ask for recommendations! Ask questions, and in the process you’ll take home more than the receipt.

Here’s my personal sampling of things to not miss while in France. Cheapos, splurge on!

1. Crème brûlée

Before cracking open this classic beauty, lift the ramekin to your ear, and lightly tap on its hard, caramelized topping with your spoon. Breathe in. Savor the moment.

2. Pain au chocolat

The proper way to eat it is to pinch off teeny morsels with your fingertips to make it last as long as possible. However, I usually peel the individual layers off slowly, thoroughly enjoying each melted chocolate nugget I encounter.

3. Fromage

Big wheels do keep on turning. Like skirts, cheese is seasonal, and the variety is endless. So pace yourself! Start off with the “Cantal jeune.” Named after the volcanic peaks of the Cantal mountain range, it’s hard to find this one-month-old taste sensation outside of France. Why, even the Sun King gave it his Good Palace-Keeping seal of approval. Also, don’t hesitate to ask the fromager for a cheese recommendation based on the wine you just bought down the street. They’ll gladly help you out.

Baguettes from Gérard Mulot.

4. Baguette

If it’s still warm from the oven, do as the locals do and rip a chunk off and pop it in your mouth as soon as you step out of the bakery. I’ve noticed that males tend to carry their baguettes like caveman clubs, while women usually cradle their bread.

5. Macarons and meringues

The ultimate instant sugar rush—but what-the-hey? You only live once, right? That’s what she said. Catherine de Medici’s Italian pastry chefs introduced the macaron to France, and Ladurée is credited with its stream-lined modern sandwich-look.

6. Wines

It’s perfectly normal to say, “I’m looking for something around five euros to go with [fill in the blank].” Trust me, everyone else is asking the same question. Tip: Caviste Pascal Fauvel at La Cave de Abbesses at 43 rue des Abbesses clearly marks his recommendations with heart-shaped signs that read, “Coup de coeur maison.” Others follow suit.

7. French onion soup

Yummy escargot

Day or night, it’s a hot and hearty Cheapo happy meal (sans prizes).

8. Escargots

If you end up loving them (and most people do) then you’ve made a culinary discovery, and if not, at least you’ve got a funny story to tell, and everyone will admire your bravery. I usually order my snails bathed in garlic, butter, and herbs in their little spiral shells. Yum!

9. Crêpes

“Je voudrais une banane-chocolat crêpe, s’il vous plaît,” is another one of my tickets to paradise.

Tartes at Les Petits Mitrons.

10. Tarte

Any ole tarte will do as long as it comes from Les Petits Mitrons at 26 rue Lepic in Abbesses, just up the street from the Moulin Rouge, and kitty-corner from the café featured in the film “Amélie.” You can also buy your pie by the slice!

11. A drink in Parisian café

If you visit Paris and miss out on this experience, Cheapos, we are no longer friends. Yes! Your alcoholic or non-alcoholic drinks will cost a little more than in a grocery store, but the upside is that you’ll be given courtside seats to people watching, and you can stay as long as you like.

12. At least one article of clothing

For the simple love of bragging rights, do pick up a scarf, shirt, or slacks. Then, for years to come you’ll be able to say, “Oh, this old thing? I picked it up in Paris years ago!”

Cheapos, do you have a favorite French treat? Do tell!

The post 12 things worth splurging on in Paris appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Here’s our guide to the boulangerie’s “other” baked goods, thinking beyond the baguette…

More “pain,” all gain

First off, there is much more to French bread (“pain”) than the baguette.

I’m a bit partial to the “tradition,” which is much softer than a baguette and tastes a little like sourdough. There are also “boules,” or round breads, and most boulangeries now offer whole-grain options. You’ll be hard-pressed to find any loaf of French bread that costs more than €2.

Similarly, it’s time to branch out from the standard croissant. Go for broke on the calorie-meter with a “pain au chocolat”, often mistakenly called a “chocolate croissant” in the U.S. (The word “croissant” implies a crescent shape, whereas a “pain au chocolat” tends to be somewhat square.)

Though not as extensive as a “patisserie” (a bakery that specializes in pastries), boulangeries offer a full range of “tartes” and other small pastries to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Lunch to go: Baguette sandwiches, quiches, and more

The boulangerie is a great place to pick up a quick lunch to eat on the go or bring to a picnic.

Small baguette sandwiches are reasonably-priced (around €3-4). A “jambon buerre” (ham with butter) is a pretty standard French option, although you’ll also find sandwiches with “thon” (tuna), “poulet” (chicken), “ouef” (egg), and more.  When the shopkeeper asks if you’d like your sandwich “avec salade,” she wants to know if you’d like one with lettuce and tomato or just the meat.

Other lunch options range from quiche to mini pizza to “croque monsieur” (a ham sandwich with cheese baked on the outside), depending on the bakery.

Formule: Make the most of your lunch money

Most boulangeries offer a “formule,” a lunch special that includes a sandwich, a dessert, and a drink. The price depends on the location and sometimes on the type of sandwich you order. Expect to pay between €5-7 for the meal.

As with all shops in France, the majority of boulangeries will be closed on Sundays, except for in highly touristed areas. If you do find a boulangerie you like open on Sunday, odds are it will be closed if you try to return on Monday.

Tell us!

Do you have a favorite boulangerie in Paris? Or a French bread product you just can’t live without? Tell us about it in the comments section.

The post Paris Cheap Eats: Beyond baguettes at the boulangerie appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Here are our steps for procuring and perfecting the Parisian picnic.

When in Paris, stock up like the French do!

Pick up your must-haves in this order. Hit up the corner boulangerie for bread, then visit the fromagerie for cheese. Next stop? A traiteur where quiches, terrines, salads and other prepared foods are the mainstay. And of course the marchand de vin for an inexpensive, but lovely, bottle of wine, and, finally, the patisserie for some fabulous desserts. Even better, hit a weekly neighborhood outdoor food market, where you can actually barter with the sellers and snag everything in one trip. Check for days and hours.

Pick a picnic spot, but not any spot.

We have some favorites. In no particular order…

La Cour Carré at the Louvre (1st arrondissement): This enclosed courtyard at the eastern end of the Louvre is a fabulous spot for a petit repos. At any time of day, large, flat benches free for the taking are bathed in sun, and in the evening the museum’s lighting stunningly showcases the surrounding building’s architecture. Hang out and listen to musicians and performers, who play under the arches and near the fountain at the square’s center. There’s no better antidote to a busy day of sightseeing.

Pont des Arts (1st and 6th arrondissement): Exit the Cour Carré’s south (river) side, and you’ll find yourself facing the Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge that turns into a sunset lovers’ rendez-vous on summer evenings. Views in all directions show off Paris’ sightseeing highlights. Here, you are perfectly poised to enjoy views of most every major Paris monument. Don’t forget the champagne!

Jardin du Palais Royal (1st arrondissement): Central Paris’ hidden gem is the Jardin. Even those who know its location can struggle to find an entrance through the arcades. The easiest way we’ve found is through Place Colette, by the Palais Royal Musée du Louvre metro station. The peaceful gardens, fountains and historic buildings surrounding the square are breathtaking.

The quais on Sunday (1st and 4th arrondissement): On Sundays, Paris’ river quais are closed to traffic and open to strollers, bikers, roller bladers-and, you guessed it: picnickers. One favorite stretch-out site is the grassy, tree-lined spot on the right bank facing Ile Saint-Louis. Sit back, relax and enjoy the sights.

Ile Saint-Louis (4th arrondissement): The banks of Ile Saint-Louis rank as one of Paris’ most romantic spots to set up for an evening apéritif. Join locals sipping champagne and watching the Bateaux Mouches pass as the sun sinks behind the Seine. The most coveted spot is at the western-most tip of the island (with views of Hotel de Ville and Ile de la Cité). To get down to the river bank, take any of the stairways from the street.

Square Jean XXIII behind Notre Dame (1st arrondissement): This lovely garden behind the famous cathedral is much quieter than the touristy square in front, with arguably just as good a view. Shaded benches and impressive rose and flower beds make it a nice pause point before or after an encounter with church-visiting crowds. It’s also convenient to Ile Saint-Louis.

Square Tino Rossi (5th arrondissement): Enter from Quai Saint Bernard where a pedestrian path runs down to the river just after Pont de Sully and you’ll find one of Paris’ prettiest Seine views, facing Ile Saint-Louis and the back spires of Notre Dame. This park has a lively evening outdoor music and dance scene. Watch a tango lesson, or better yet join in!

Rue de Seine, square G. Pierne (6th arrondissement): This is a convenient little stopping point to quickly eat purchases from rue de Seine’s nearby boulangeries and to-go sandwich shops. Don’t miss the whimsical design of the benches in the form of open books.

The post Paris Cheap Eats: 8 great picnic spots appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.