paris shopping – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Paris: A Guide to shopping at the top flea markets https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-guide-best-flea-markets.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-guide-best-flea-markets.html#respond Wed, 13 Apr 2016 14:30:20 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=44982 It’s the only time that anyone in Paris will be excited to hear the word puces — or fleas. The city’s iconic flea markets, often just called les puces, allow tourists to spend hours browsing everything from vintage prints and dusty books to tarnished jewelry and Louis XV furniture. The odds of finding an affordable, one » Read more

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It’s the only time that anyone in Paris will be excited to hear the word puces — or fleas. The city’s iconic flea markets, often just called les puces, allow tourists to spend hours browsing everything from vintage prints and dusty books to tarnished jewelry and Louis XV furniture.

The odds of finding an affordable, one of a kind bobble or trinket may not be in your favor — the real stuff carries real prices — but the chance is always there. Budget shoppers can have a field day here trying to find that one awesome item, as can those with significantly higher budgets.

The city has three markets of note, opened every weekend and easily accessible by the Metro. Go armed with a bit of cash, a few French phrases, a bottle of water, and plenty of patience to enjoy these institutions. Happy hunting!

Related: Tips for shopping at Paris Flea Markets

Saint Ouen Flea Market

Hunting for treasures at Les Puces de Saint Ouen in Paris. Photo parisharing

Saint Ouen Flea Market

Metro: Porte de Clingancourt
When: Saturday 9 am to 6 pm, Sunday 10 am to 6 pm, Monday 11 am to 5 pm

The main marché aux puces that everyone uses as a reference point is the Marché Saint Ouen. Located just beyond the city limits to the north, it’s easily accessible via the line 4 at the station Porte de Clingancourt from Saturday to Monday. Follow the often disappointing stands of cheap souvenirs and off-brand jeans and you’ll eventually find alleys full of army surplus and other odds and ends leading to the real show.

The best bits are found around rue des Rosiers. Here, the tangle of streets houses several independent market, each one specializing in various antiques or home décor. There are even restaurants and cafés among the various stalls, so feel free to stop for a coffee or bite to eat between shopping.

The Marché Biron, with its red carpet and high-end antiques, might be a bit out of your league. But the Marché Dauphine, one of the largest of the markets housed indoors, could be the place to find a special treasure or two. Or get lost in the Marché Paul Bert Serpette to discover stall after stall of random, oftentimes useless objects.

Montreuil Market

Browsing through the vendors set up at Montreuil Flea Market. Photo J Marsh

Montreuil Flea Market

Metro: Porte de Montreuil
When: Saturday to Monday, 7 am to 7:30 pm

To the east, the puces at Montreuil is a Saturday to Monday affair where hundreds of vendors take up a spot around metro station Porte de Montreuil to sell their wares. Unlike Saint Ouen, it does not feature permanent stalls. Instead, vendors may just spread a blanket on the ground selling individual shoes while further down a true antique dealer will hawk near-priceless lamps and works of art.

The fleas are also the place to search for vintage clothes, and the Marché de Montreuil features many secondhand clothes dealers. True treasure seekers may be disappointed, but it’s still worth a walk on Saturday or Sunday morning.

Flea Market at Porte de Vanves

Metro: Porte de Vanves
When: Saturday & Sunday, 7 am to 2 pm

To the south, the puces at Vanves, at metro station Porte de Vanves, occupies avenues March Sanglier and Georges Lafenestre every weekend from 7 am to 2 pm. More akin to a giant yard sale, this is the place to find works of art, religious statues, or other random objects to take home.

Browse the nearly 400 vendors before making your choice — but if you are sure about a purchase, feel free to feign disinterest and see if you can haggle the price down a bit. It’s worth a shot!

Vide Greniers

The weekend puces are open year-round, but they aren’t the only place to stock up on other people’s possessions. The vide greniers — literally “empty the attic” — are periodic yard sales in the streets of Paris. Think of them as pop-up puces.

These events can range from neighborhood-wide markets to just a few tables. The schedule is fairly accurate on this website, so check in to see what’s on nearby during your stay.

Tips for before hitting the markets

No matter which market you end up at, prep your wallet. Most merchants will prefer cash, though some of the bigger vendors will accept credit cards, especially when their chairs and end tables cost hundreds of euros. Just be careful with your money, as you always should be, when browsing the markets. Everyone is a potential victim for pickpockets.

AftRelated: Paris Shopping Tips: How to save on a shopping spree

Otherwise, take your time to wander the enormous collections of products available and cross your fingers that you’ll find something affordable and unique to take home with you.

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Paris: Tips for shopping at the best outdoor food markets for Cheapos https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-guide-citys-best-food-markets.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-guide-citys-best-food-markets.html#comments Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:04:32 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=44719 Grab your canvas bags. It’s market day in Paris! While the supermarkets in Paris provide all the food necessary to survive, the outdoor markets offer more variety of fruits and vegetables, often at lower prices. It’s a weekly ritual for many Parisians, but there’s no reason that the casual tourist can’t stock up on a few snacks » Read more

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Grab your canvas bags. It’s market day in Paris! While the supermarkets in Paris provide all the food necessary to survive, the outdoor markets offer more variety of fruits and vegetables, often at lower prices.

It’s a weekly ritual for many Parisians, but there’s no reason that the casual tourist can’t stock up on a few snacks or picnic supplies as well.

Here’s our guide on how to tackle the often intimidating world of outdoor food markets, along with a few of our favorite picks.

Related: 50 Ways to save time and money in Paris

Where and when

There are dozens of markets all over the city on different days of the week. It’s best to consult the city’s official guide for the nearest one or check out Secrets of Paris which has extensive listings. They usually open early in the morning, by 7 am and begin closing around 1 pm, though it all depends on the market.

Many shoppers want to head to the famous Raspail Market or to one of the fancy organic markets — but the prices usually keep me away. Instead, head to some of the more budget-friendly ones.

The most popular markets are the Marché d’Aligre open daily except Monday. The covered market attached to the outdoor stalls houses a beer stand, cheese shops, and a specialty olive oil store. The market on Richard Lenoir by Bastille, open on Thursday and Sunday, is enormous and full of every imaginable food product. Real Cheapos will head to the Belleville market on Tuesday and Friday to brave other Parisians looking for some of the cheapest produce around. Here’s a guide to our favorite

Preparing for a trip to the market

Come to the market ready, armed with the necessities. First, don’t come too hungry or else you’ll want to buy too much. Be smart about it!

Do come with enough bags to carry everything home. Markets are still using small colored plastic bags for individual items, but it’s best to have a larger canvas bag or basket to put everything in afterwards. Having ten plastic bags cutting into your fingers is not the lasting impression we want at the market.

Related: 10 Tips for shopping at Paris markets

Also come with spare change. While some market vendors do accept credit card, most prefer cash. It’s best to have lots of loose change to get as close as possible to the right amount, because busy sellers don’t have time to do lots of math when the clients are queuing — but they are really, really good at fast math.

Market etiquette

So once you arrive at the market, where do you begin? I like to do a few laps to spot the items I want, to check out prices, and to enjoy the atmosphere before I start buying. Some merchants will be cutting up pieces of fruit to sample while others will beckon you to their stalls. Be friendly, but don’t feel pressured to buy anything you don’t want.

Related: 10 French phrases to help you save

When you approach a stall to purchase, don’t immediately touch anything. Most of the cheaper markets (read: any that I go to), allow you to choose your own tomatoes and lettuce. You take what you want in a plastic bag and they weigh it, then you pay for all of your items.

Some sellers, however — and you’ll know which ones I am talking about — are a bit fussier. At these more pristine stands, food will be a bit more orderly and the seller will choose for you. It’s normal, and if you see them putting a bad apple in the bag, you can speak up about it. They’ll weigh it and you’ll pay. Just be careful if you’re not aware of how heavy a kilo is. It’s better to say you want a few handfuls of spinach than a kilogram, which may not end up fitting into your shopping bag.

Buying produce

When it comes to the food, there are things to remember. The French are into seasonal eating, so strawberries in February will be costly since they are coming from a greenhouse somewhere. In the springtime, the market sellers are practically giving them away. So look for items that match the season, and also those that were grown in France, which haven’t traveled so far and are thus probably relatively seasonal.

Related: Shopping success at outdoor food markets in France

Of course some items are never grown locally — limes, pineapples, or bananas — so don’t go crazy. Buy what you need, and as little or as much as you want. You can just buy five apples if that’s all you want from a stand. That’s five less that the sellers will have to worry about at the end of the day.

Photo: <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/57514575@N05/8353742934">Brice Lamotte</a>

Fresh seafood at a stand at an outdoor market in Paris. Photo: Erica Firment

Other foods

Markets are also full of stalls selling cheese, seafood, eggs, meats, wine, bread, pastries, prepared foods, even pizzas and coffee. Plan on going for lunch and walk away with a baguette, slices of cheese and ham, and a bit of fresh fruit, but bring an extra bag for a few bottles of wine or packages of olives for later.

Again, there’s no reason to buy ten kilograms of cheese. Just get a little slice of two or three cheeses to experience them — the cheese monger will usually indicate how much he or she is going to cut, and you simply say more or less.

Final tip: Shop like a local!

If you are in Paris for a while (or even a few days), try to create a rapport with market vendors you appreciate. My veggie guys always throw in a few extras since I’m a faithful client, and that bit extra helps make the experience that much more enjoyable. Heading to the market is a much better way to engage with Paris than just stopping by Monoprix – and it’ll end up being cheaper! Now let’s get out there and shop. Here are a few of our favorite places…

A guide to the best markets for Cheapos

Marché Bastille
Métro: Bastille or Richard Lenoir
When: Thursday and Sunday, 7 am -2:30 pm

One of the biggest and most popular markets in the city, this is a must-for anyone who wants to stock up on produce with the rest of Paris. Seemingly endless stalls of fruits, vegetables, and cured meats dominate the market, while several stands selling prepared dishes like fresh paella and sandwiches are great lunch options

Marché d’Aligre
Métro: Ledru-Rollin
12th aar
When: Tuesday – Sunday, 9 am -1 pm

A local market that guidebooks made famous, Marché d’Aligre attracts those interested in a more sedate market experience without sacrificing quality — or quantity for that matter. The unique feature is a covered section with specialty products like flowers, olive oil, and craft beer.

Marché de Belleville
Métro: Belleville
When: Tuesday and Friday, 7 am -2:30 pm

In the culturally diverse Belleville, this market is popular among the neighborhood’s many Asian shoppers. Marché de Belleville may not be the most photogenic market, but the cheap prices and plentiful produce make it a solid option for budget seekers.

Marché Barbès
Métro: La Chapelle
When: Wed,  7 am – 1 pm, Saturday,  7 am – 3pm

Marché Barbès has all of the hustle and bustle of a North African souk, so don’t go bother being too polite. Shoppers shove and snake their way through this dense market where you can find random collections of food items — potentially expired butter, for example — but don’t worry, those are just “sell-by” dates. Right?

Marché Maubert-Mutalité
Métro: Maubert-Mutalité,
When: Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday,  7 am – 2:30 pm

The Left Bank has markets, too, and this tiny one, not too far from Notre Dame, is one of the oldest. Go to Marché Maubert-Mutalité for the fresh produce and other random goods hawked here, like scarfs or binoculars. The market’s backdrop is a textbook example of French shopping with a boucherie, charcuterie, poissonnerie, fromagerie, and boulangerie all lined up nice and neatly.

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Paris: 7 popular items that cost more than you think (and simple ways to save on them) https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-these-7-items-are-probably-more-expensive-than-you-expect.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-these-7-items-are-probably-more-expensive-than-you-expect.html#comments Mon, 06 Jul 2015 13:22:29 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=42235 Heading to Paris and love to shop? Many tourists arrive in Paris eager to snag fabulous deals on high-end fashions, accessories and perfume. They think, quite understandably, “hey, it must be cheaper to buy it here because it’s French!” Alas, this is not always the case. Even with a stronger dollar, very few made-in-France goods » Read more

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Heading to Paris and love to shop? Many tourists arrive in Paris eager to snag fabulous deals on high-end fashions, accessories and perfume. They think, quite understandably, “hey, it must be cheaper to buy it here because it’s French!” Alas, this is not always the case.

Even with a stronger dollar, very few made-in-France goods are really “affordable” to begin with. Even Parisians pay an arm and a leg for some of these fashionable and sweet-smelling products so associated with the French capital.

So before you start compiling a list of all the très Français items you wish to stock up on, here’s a sanity check to keep your expectations — and your budget — in line. After all, it might just be cheaper to buy these at home!

1. Luxury bags and accessories

Whether it’s a Chanel clutch or a Louis Vuitton handbag, people come to Paris, the heart of it all, to stock up on these luxury goods. The problem? They’re not really much cheaper here than back at home. It’s just more fun to say, “I got this in Paris.”

Budget option: If you do stock up on some of these fancy items during your trip and you’re not a citizen of the European Union, don’t forget to get a tax refund. That alone can make these items much more affordable. However, note that you must spend a minimum amount during your trip.

2. Fashion

Same goes for the clothes. Yes, designers are a dime a dozen in Paris, but that doesn’t mean their goods are any less expensive. Things might actually be cheaper at home from a department store during a sale. Visit the Gaultier and Givenchy shops, but don’t expect to leave with any steals. Even during the twice-annual sales (“soldes”), their prices aren’t going to budge too much.

Budget options: Try a vintage shop, maybe, and even then you’re still not guaranteed a good price. Also, follow our cheapo-friendly fashion itinerary, buy your lingerie for less here, and if all else fails, pick up high-end designers for less at these big chains.

3. Perfume

The perfume capital of the world, tourists so often think that fragrances for men and women flow freely from Paris, but that’s not the case. Your best bet is to wait until you pass through the duty free shop at the airport (although, to be sure, it is much less elegant!). What you will find in Paris’s perfumeries are some more unique scents that aren’t available in department stores in the US. Very cool, but again, no deals to be had.

Budget option: You could just stop for free samples along the Champs-Elysées or visit the free Perfume Museum.

4. Champagne

Another luxury item, Champagne isn’t starkly cheaper in Paris than back home. Bottles still run €40, €50 and €60 depending on the brand – not much cheaper than what you can find in America. Granted, the selection is far greater, so it’s definitely a different experience.

Budget option: For a much more budget-friendly (and still exquisite) option, consider trying some of the French crémant, any bubbly white wine not issued from Champagne. Some of it is really, really good, and quite affordable. Read more wine-buying tips.

Chez Michel

Prepare to shell out many euros for a classic French meal like this one at Chez Michel. Photo: Kent Wang

5. Quality French fare

This is France! French food should be cheap, right? Not always. If you are looking for a good, quality, authentic French meal, you might have to open your wallet a little wider. Classic bistros, formerly local places with homey, traditional cooking, are becoming rarer as they’re replaced with less authentic options that heat up pre-made meals. Meanwhile, most of the remaining old-fashioned gems have gotten expensive. (Of course if you’re happy for a bit of frozen duck heated in the microwave, you can still find that for cheap.)

Budget option: Try one of these prix-fixe deals from a classic bistro at lunch time or be prepared to splurge a bit for a nice dinner.

6. Flea market finds

Talking about shopping at the “puces” (flea markets) in Paris conjures up images of finding tiny treasures for mere euros. To be fair, there is a lot of cheap stuff at the flea market, but probably the stuff you’d actually want will take some serious digging. Furthermore, it can get quite pricey at the markets, especially since certain halls cater to high-end antiques and oddities that cost thousands of euros.

Budget option: You might want to check out the Marché Vernaison, which tends to have more affordable objects, before wandering too far into the rest of the market. Also, follow these tips for flea market success.

7. High kicking entertainment

The can-can! The cabaret! Paris is just lousy with dance halls dating back to the 19th century where topless women dance and merriment abounds. Yes, that’s all true, but it’s not cheap.

Tourists looking to take in a show at the Moulin Rouge are often surprised by the €90+ price tag. While it’s not insanely expensive (have you seen Broadway ticket prices recently?), it’s just not what many travelers might be expecting. You’ve been warned. A night out can-can ruin your budget!

Your budget surprises?

Have you been surprised by any other prices while visiting Paris? Share with us in our comments section below!

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10 French phrases that will save you money in Paris https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/helpful-french-phrases-for-shopping-and-dining.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/helpful-french-phrases-for-shopping-and-dining.html#comments Wed, 22 Oct 2014 12:45:39 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=40196 So you’re feeling like you’ve mastered the “bonjours” and “mercis”? Maybe it’s time to kick it up a notch. Sometimes in Paris, hand signals don’t always work when you are shopping or dining in a café. We know the feeling when you want to say, “No, stop, please, I didn’t want the €65 box of » Read more

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So you’re feeling like you’ve mastered the “bonjours” and “mercis”? Maybe it’s time to kick it up a notch. Sometimes in Paris, hand signals don’t always work when you are shopping or dining in a café.

We know the feeling when you want to say, “No, stop, please, I didn’t want the €65 box of chocolate,” and sometimes you just can’t find the words.

So here are a few simple phrases to keep in your back pocket when purchasing items or dining out so that you can avoid spending too much. Bon courage!

1. Ça coute combien? – This costs how much?

Use this one when you don’t see a price or if you’re unsure. This one works wonders at the flea market where, once you know the price, you can see how good your haggling skills are. I just hope your numbers are up to snuff

Relate: Shopping tips for flea market success in Paris

2. Tout compris – All included

You may not actually have to say this out loud, but you should know what it means. You’ll see this one on most receipts as in “Toutes taxes comprises” (TTC) or “service tout compris.” What’s that mean for you? No worries about leaving a centime more!

3. …le moins cher? – …the least expensive?

Use this one if, for example, you are at the wine shop and you want the cheapest wine. It’s a good one to throw on the table when there’s any doubt about pricing. It’s not really sophisticated, but if you’re counting pennies, there’s no shame.

4. Carafe de – Pitcher of

This one’s timeless. Wine or water—you don’t want it too fancy. A “carafe d’eau” is tap water that’s free. A “carafe de vin” is house wine that can be as little as a third the price of a bottle. And both are perfectly fine, if not delicious.

5. Une poignée de – A handful

I use this one at the market when I just want a few cherries, apricots or whatever other seasonal produce is available. Often the market merchants will bag your fruit and veggies for you, meaning you can’t pick your own—after all, they know best.

But I don’t want to ask them for ten cherries or twenty green beans, and I am not always good at guessing how many strawberries are in a kilogram. Just a handful, or a “bonne poignée” for a big handful. Just say “un peu plus” if you want a bit more than they bag.

Related: 10 tips for shoppers at Paris markets

6. Ça suffit – That’s enough

You’ll hear parents yelling this at their bickering children, but hopefully you won’t encounter a French scolding. Instead, try it at the market, the cheese shop or any store where someone is serving you and doling out or portioning a good. When my market guy is spooning out olives, I say, “Ça suffit, merci” when he’s got enough. It also works on the cheese monger as they slide their knife over a wheel of cheese indicating the size of the slice you want. But really, can you ever have enough cheese, right?

7. Supplément – Supplemental charge

This is an easy one, and one to avoid—or at least you’ve been warned. You’ll often see it as a “+5” to indicate a supplement of five euros. Often a fixed price menu will have supplements to pay for higher end items, or a taxi will have a supplement to pay for more passengers or baggage. So don’t be too surprised if the price seems a bit higher than you thought.

8. Juste quelques morceaux – Just a few pieces

Tourists aren’t always aware that many shops like Ladurée will sell you just a few pieces of sweets if you’d like, so there’s no need to get the pricey packaging set if you just wanted a bit of sugar. Whip this one out at the chocolate shop if you just want to try a few ganaches instead of taking home a pricey gift box.

It also works at any macaron shop if you only want one or two to taste (“à gouter” is to taste, in case you’re feeling brave). The shopkeeper will probably ask you how many after you say this though, so be prepared to hold up some fingers.

Related: 5 Parisian pâtisseries to satisfy your sweet tooth

9. Gratuit – Free

This one’s a no-brainer. When you see that something is “gratuit” there is a reasonably good chance that the museum/sample/brochure/tour actually is. Be wary of free things that come with strings (like the “free” tours that almost require a tip at the end). But there are plenty of museums and galleries that are indeed free, and we know a few of them!

10. Non merci, c’est trop – No thanks, that’s too much

This one might get you out of a sticky situation, or may open up the conversation towards a bit of negotiating if you’re at the flea markets. Generally, bartering isn’t something we do in Paris, but you never know. Imagine instead that the market merchant just loaded you up with three kilos of tomatoes—use this phrase to let him know that’s not what you needed.

Though if the cheese monger has already packaged your cheese and you balk at the price, it’s a bit rude to say it’s too expensive and walk away. See #1 and use it liberally.

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Paris: Cheapo guide to the Opera district https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-cheapo-guide-opera-district.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-cheapo-guide-opera-district.html#respond Mon, 04 Aug 2014 11:01:39 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=38809 Tucked between the chic rue St-Honoré, the brand-name department stores, and the Place Vendome, the Opera district doesn’t instill much hope for budget travelers. Crowned by the ornate Opéra Garnier, it might seem like this district is best left to the high rollers and Chanel-seekers. But fear not Cheapos, there is plenty to discover on » Read more

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Tucked between the chic rue St-Honoré, the brand-name department stores, and the Place Vendome, the Opera district doesn’t instill much hope for budget travelers. Crowned by the ornate Opéra Garnier, it might seem like this district is best left to the high rollers and Chanel-seekers. But fear not Cheapos, there is plenty to discover on that fabled shoestring even in the Opera district.

Related: Cheap hotels near Opéra Garnier

1. In the steps of the Phantom

The opera house itself is something to marvel, and while you don’t need to get a top hat and ballgown to go see a show, you can still experience it’s 19th century grandeur. Self-guided visits

are available for just €10. It’s no steal, but it’s worth it to see the building that inspired the famous phantom and which hosts world-class performances. The chandeliers and golden decorations in the Grand Foyer are a must-see, echoing the opulence of even Versailles.

Galeries Lafayette View

The beautiful city scene from the the top floor of Galeries Lafayette. Photo: Douglas D

2. Stunning (and free!) aerial view

I love a view of the city, so after a spin in the opera house, walk to the Galeries Lafayette just behind the theater. Skip the shopping but pass by the amazing stained glass cupola in the perfume section. This 19th century department store has great views of Paris from the roof, so take the escalator all the way up and check it out—for free!

Rue Sainte Anne

Affordable Japanese restaurants line the area around rue Saine Anne. Photo: ArkanGL

3. Lunch like a Parisian

When hunger strikes, walk down the Avenue de l’Opéra for a cheap meal under €15 at any of the Japanese restaurants on and around rue Sainte Anne. Some are better than others, but none will be a poor meal. Noodle soups and bento boxes trump the sushi here, but don’t be afraid to try what look good. It may seem weird to eat Japanese in Paris, but you’ll hear plenty of French speakers around you—after all, Paris is a place where sushi delivery boys easily outnumber pizza delivery boys.

Still hungry? Afterwards, a Japanese-inspired French pastry at Aki Bakery (16 rue Sainte Anne) will round off that meal for you.

4. Wander grand old-world shopping malls

You may not be interested in buying anything, but the nearby covered passages are a great way to experience how the Parisian upper set shopped in the 1800s. The Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert are two of the most beautiful but even the Passage Choiseul is worth a visit.

Opera House Garnier

Score cheap tickets at the last minute to a show at the Palais Garnier. Photo: Veronique Mergaux

5. Take in a night at the opera

If the evening hits and you’re feeling lucky, head back to the Opéra Garnier and see if you can score some cheap last minute tickets to a show. Tuxedos are not required, just prepare to queue up with other ticket seekers. Category 6 tickets go on sale at the box office an hour before the performance with prices varying based on the performance, and be sure to check the schedule beforehand online.

Related: Cheap opera and classical music tickets

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Fashioning Paris: Where to shop for fabric https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/19329.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/19329.html#comments Mon, 11 Jul 2011 15:56:41 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=19329 By Theadora Brack in Paris— This week, let’s go fabric shopping in Paris. Whether your place is in need of a supreme makeover, with some classic French upholstery retouches, or you’re on the make for material worthy of a wedding (New Yorkers, I’m talking to you!), Paris has what you need. One of my favorite textile » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

This week, let’s go fabric shopping in Paris. Whether your place is in need of a supreme makeover, with some classic French upholstery retouches, or you’re on the make for material worthy of a wedding (New Yorkers, I’m talking to you!), Paris has what you need.

One of my favorite textile districts is in Montmartre. Here at the foot of Sacré Coeur, you’ll find a whole slew of fabric and notions shops. So, Cheapos, are you ready to bolt?

fabric store in montmartre

Textile bliss in the Sacré Couer’s shadow.

Getting There

Let’s meet outside the entrance of the Abbesses Métro station. After strolling a block downhill (east) on rue des Abbesses, we’ll make a right at rue des Martyrs, and then a quick left at rue d’Orsel.

Ode to Jouy

Skinny rue d’Orsel is lined with a row of funky clothing shops and studios, and it’s here that I find daily inspiration. Their vitrines always make me smile.

Maybe it’s because of the close proximity to the textile district, but the designers here play with the entire spectrum of fabrics in ways you wouldn’t imagine. I recently saw a lingerie line made of rosy toile de Jouy in one shop, while another shop fashioned an evening gown out of a fetching material patterned with cat heads. Hiss-tory in the making!

fabric shop window in paris

A shop window rocks on.

You Got the Notion

As we move our way along rue d’Orsel, fabric and notions shops will start popping up around rue de Steinkerque. This is where I typically lose my heart and my hard-earned euros. I’ve been known to spend hours in these shops, picking up supplies for holiday window decorations and dinner party costumes.

Do you have a button fetish, too? Easily unraveled by the mere sight of countless spools of yarn, ribbon and thread? Let’s not forget patches, pom-poms and tassels, along with bonnets, spangles and furbelows. This shiny sequined land is your land, my friend!

All in Stitches

“Oh, the possibilities are (m)endless,” is what I always say as I enter the doors of grand magasins de la couture. Eyes well up with tears. (Actually, I do recommend packing eye drops. The dust particles are never kind!) Both the Marché Saint-Pierre on 2 Rue Charles Nodier, and the Tissus Reine at 5 Place Saint-Pierre (with its 50 miniature mannequins!) are definitely worth a peek.

Here’s the system: If something catches your eye, flag down a clerk with a ruler. They’ll measure it out for you, and hand you a receipt to give to the cashier. Also check the bins outside the shops, where you’ll often find discounted remnants or “coupons,” pre-cut lengths of fabric. Typically the coupons are about three meters (a little more than three yards).

dress in paris shop window

Dressed up on rue d’Orsel.

Get into the Groove

Ready for a break? For inspiration and homemade quiche, let’s pop by the one of my favorite art museums: Halle Saint Pierre at 2 rue Ronsard. Similar in spirit to Baltimore’s American Visionary Art Museum, this international gem features both contemporary and historic works by self-taught and outsider artists.

Housed in a former 19th-century market, HSP is a bustling cultural hive, boasting a café with a stunning view of Sacré Coeur as well as one of the best (and most fun) art bookshops in the whole city. And speaking of fabric, according to Directrice Martine Lusardy, a textile-themed exhibit entitled “Carnets-Livres” will open in the café’s gallery on July 15, 2011. Admission is free. How spool is that?

Still Waxing Fabrics?

bolts of fabric in paris

Bolting down rue d’Orsel.

Well, then make a beeline to the nearby Barbès neighborhood (located just a hop, skip and a jump from Halle Saint-Pierre) for fantastical African cloth. I’d start the spree at Megawax on the corner of rue Polonceau and rue des Poissonniers.

Then head up Poissonniers a few blocks and walk up and down rue Doudeauville, where you’ll find still more jam-packed cloth shops. Here I always find conversation-provoking patterns. I’ve bought cloth patterned with prints of umbrellas, chickens and eggcups, along with water bottles, mobile phones and factories.

Tip: Most of the fabric is precut at six meters (about six-and-a-half yards). Keep your eyes peeled for the €10 piles of cloth! Each one is enough to make at least two shirts. Now we’re talking cheap-o-ra-ra! Happy Hunting, Cheapos!

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Paris: Walking tour of the Rue de la Paix https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-walking-tour-and-more-of-the-rue-de-la-paix.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-walking-tour-and-more-of-the-rue-de-la-paix.html#comments Mon, 27 Sep 2010 14:17:05 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=12958 Gather ’round my fashion Cheapoupées because this stroll c’est pour vous! Let’s sashay to one of my favorite streets in Paris, the rue de la Paix. Formerly known as rue Napoléon, it was given a new name during the Bourbon Restoration (led by Louis XVIII) of 1814. Connecting the Opéra Garnier to Place Vendôme, this centuries-old » Read more

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Gather ’round my fashion Cheapoupées because this stroll c’est pour vous! Let’s sashay to one of my favorite streets in Paris, the rue de la Paix. Formerly known as rue Napoléon, it was given a new name during the Bourbon Restoration (led by Louis XVIII) of 1814. Connecting the Opéra Garnier to Place Vendôme, this centuries-old pet promenade and shopping district has never failed to woo this Cheapo or its au courant inhabitants and modish visitors!

Step up to the Rue de la Paix

Charles Frederick Worth (the father of haute couture) was the first to open up shop, at 7 rue de la Paix. Others soon followed suit. Jacques Doucet (#21), Jeanne Paquin (#3), and Chanel’s mentor, Caroline Reboux (# 23) also kept in step by moving here. Schiaparelli started her business on the top attic floors of #4, before moving to the ground level and then finally to Place Vendôme. Sadly, by now most of these fashion houses have moved away, though some of their awnings, signs and plaques linger on.

Luckily, in Paris, when one door closes, another usually opens. Today, on the rue, you’ll find a whole new mix of shops. Among my favorites? The Repetto boutique at #22. (Take a peek at their towering cubbyholes stuffed with satin ballet slippers.) Thank Brigitte Bardot for asking founder Madame Rose Repetto to make a street shoe model of the classic ballet flat in 1956 during the filming of “And God Created Woman.” Rose obliged her with a sublime pair in red and the rest is history in the shaking.

And speaking of shaking, Harry’s New York Bar (at 5, Rue Daunou), once a treasured Hemingway haunt, was the birthplace of both the Bloody Mary and the Sidecar! George Gershwin sat here too, but at the piano . . . and composed the musical, “An American in Paris.” Cheapos, our love is here to stay!

Place Vendôme

Rue de la Paix spills into Place Vendôme. Schiaparelli “pitched her tent under the shadow of Napoléon’s column” at 21 Place Vendôme in 1935, opening one of the first prêt-à-porter boutiques! Although Schiaparelli’s shop closed decades ago, its awning still flaps above the sumptuous entryway. Her “Schiap Shop” resembled a giant gilded birdcage made of painted bamboo. A publicity maven, she sometimes launched her collections with circus performances in the middle of the square, complete with prancing elephants and daredevil tightrope walkers!

Pinching from Schiaparelli, “If the wind catches your hat and tantalizingly blows it farther and farther away, you must run quicker than the wind if you want to retrieve it!”

Photos by the author: Fragonard Museum

Fragonard Museum of Perfume in Paris

Getting there and one last sweet smelling thing…

The Métro Opéra main entrance will give you a panoramic view of the Opéra Garnier, and once there, the Fragonard Musée du Parfum is just a hop, skip and pirouette away at 9, rue Scribe. Sing a few praises to the Opéra, and then jeté across the street to the free fragrance museum. Here will you not only get an eyeful of their eclectic collection of vintage bottles, powder boxes and labels, but you’ll also learn how perfume is made in Grasse, the fragrance hubbub of the world. For more info, check out our post on this sweet smelling – and free! – musée.

Tips: Don’t miss the gift shop because it’s here where you’ll find exhibited several more of the museum gems. Look for my favorite: a candle-snuffer-shaped number called “Sleeping,” created by  Elsa Schiaparelli in 1938. Mad about Dada and Surrealism, “Schiap” frequently worked with artists like Jean Cocteau, Dali, and Man Ray. News Splash! The Fragonard shop is also full of affordable perfumes, soaps, and lotions, decked out in gorgeous boxes, all boasting French national monuments. Ooh, la la.

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Paris: 11 famous perfumes to test for free on the Champs-Elysées https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-perfumes-famous-champs-elysees-sephora-free.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-perfumes-famous-champs-elysees-sephora-free.html#comments Mon, 21 Jun 2010 15:46:59 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=10769 One of my favorite spots in Paris to get beautified in a pinch is the Sephora on the Champs-Elysées. Outfitted with a dramatic ramp, a red carpet and black and white columns, it’s one of the largest Sephoras in the world. A cheapo dream-come-true, the shop is stocked with more than 250 discounted brands of » Read more

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One of my favorite spots in Paris to get beautified in a pinch is the Sephora on the Champs-Elysées. Outfitted with a dramatic ramp, a red carpet and black and white columns, it’s one of the largest Sephoras in the world.

A cheapo dream-come-true, the shop is stocked with more than 250 discounted brands of produits de beauté, and staffed with 200 knowledgeable employees dressed in black and poised to help you explore the outer you.

Inside the Sephora

Inside the Champs-Elysées Sephora.

Pump it up

A French superstar since 1969, Sephora is a cross between a gigantic supermarket and a glittering playground, with testers available for every product sold. Music and spontaneous dance sessions led by the staff also stoke its irresistible “backstage on opening night” vibe.

One can easily spend both night and day applying products—which is not a problem at the Champs Elysée location, as its doors are open till ’round midnight.

A tour of hard-to-find fragrances

Cheapos, Sephora is the place to study the French classics or buy a gorgeous (and difficult-to-find) flacon (“vial”) for someone special back home. Interested in a scent? Ask for a free sample. They’ll happily prepare one for you.

With so many choices, where to start? To help make-up your mind, I’ve created a spray-by-spray shopping list of some of the famous (and sometimes difficult to find) fragrances available here.

Here’s a “Cheapo’s dozen”: 11 of my favorite scents, and the stars who loved them. So strike a pose, there’s nothing to it!

Inside the Sephora in Paris

An impromptu dance session.

1. “Ivoire” by Balmain (1979)

A fiery encounter with a woman swathed in ivory on the Opéra steps moved Pierre Balmain to create the fragrance. Greta Garbo and Audrey Hepburn were absolutely cuckoo for it! And speaking of visions in white, he also designed Audrey’s first wedding gown.

2. “Fleur de Rocaille” by Caron (1933)

Ava Gardner wore the original version, inspired by Monet’s water-lily paintings. Ava radiated in “The Sun Also Rises,” based on Hemingway’s novel. And guess who served as Papa’s spy during the shooting of the film? At the time, no one smelled a rat.

3. “Cabochard” by Grés (1959)

Shaped and named by Madame Grés after voyaging to India, “Cabochard” translates to “stubborn” or “headstrong.” Marquise Gloria “Norma Desmond” Swanson was mad about it.

4. “L’Interdit” by Givenchy (1957)

Count Hubert de Givenchy fashioned “L’Interdit,” (“The Forbidden”) for muse Audrey Hepburn, as well as her luscious garments for films like “Sabrina,” “Funny Face,” “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” and “Paris When it Sizzles.”

5. “Jicky” by Guerlain (1889)

Not only were Brigitte Bardot, Colette  and Sarah Bernhardt devotees, but so were Roger Moore, Sean Connery and Peter Sellers. Created the same year the Eiffel Tower was built, “Jicky” was one of the first fragrances to be made with synthetic ingredients.

A Givenchy display in the Paris Sephora.

The Givenchy display.

6. “L’Heure Bleue” by Guerlain (1912)

“L’Heure Bleue” (“Twilight”) softly wooed both Catherine Deneuve and Wallis Simpson (Duchess of Windsor), who smartly paired it with Guerlain’s other classic, “Mitsouko.”

7. “Mitsouko” by Guerlain (1919)

Celebrating the end of WWI, Jean Harlow, Ingrid Bergman, Charlie Chaplin, Anaïs Nin and Serge Diaghilev all took to Mitsouko’s bold intensity. Jean Harlow’s husband, Paul Bern (MGM producer), sprayed himself with her Mitsouko just before committing suicide, only two weeks after their wedding. Talk about lingering power!

8. “Vol de Nuit” by Guerlain (1933)

Created as a tribute to flyer Antoine de Saint-Exupery (author of “The Little Prince”), aviators around the globe, along with Claudette Colbert, Marlene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn, all found the scent of “Night Flight” heads above others. Its bottle evokes an airplane propeller.

A view inside Sephora in Paris

Aisles of cosmetics

9. “Arpège” by Lanvin (1927)

Princess Diana, Rita Hayworth and Jayne Mansfield fell for its full-bodied scent.

10. “Joy” by Jean Patou (1930)

Patou launched it just after the stock market crashed, because he wanted to lift the gloom and give his American clientele something they could still afford to buy. Even so, it was immediately nicknamed “the most expensive perfume in the world” by Patou’s friend and gossip columnist Elsa Maxwell because it took 10,000 jasmine flowers from Grasse and 360 roses from Bulgaria just to make one ounce.

Grace Kelly, Josephine Baker, Vivien Leigh, Sophia Lauren, Marilyn Monroe and Mary Pickford all helped spread a little Joy around.

11. “Femme” by Rochas (1945)

Mae West, Joan Crawford, and Carole Lombard all found the original formula simply diva-licious. Mae West’s curvaceous torso inspired the shape of not just one hourglass-shaped bottle, but two—for Femme by Rochas and for Elsa Schiaparelli’s Shocking!

As Schiaparelli said, “C’est divin! C’est divin!”

Practical information

Address: 70 avenue des Champs-Elysées
Tel: +33 1 53 93 22 50
Hours: Open 10 a.m.-12 a.m. (Sunday-Thursday), 10 a.m.-1 a.m. (Friday and Saturday)

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Favorite Place in Paris: The Rooftop at the Galeries Lafayette https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/favorite-place-in-paris-the-rooftop-at-the-galeries-lafayette.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/favorite-place-in-paris-the-rooftop-at-the-galeries-lafayette.html#comments Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:00:17 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=9031 Everyone in Paris has a favorite nook of paradise. So where do I go for a little escapism? Clipping from the fabulous Petula Clark, I make my way downtown to the Galeries Lafayette Coupole’s rooftop, where the lights are much brighter and the view at the top is always free! Related: 25 Free things to » Read more

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Everyone in Paris has a favorite nook of paradise. So where do I go for a little escapism? Clipping from the fabulous Petula Clark, I make my way downtown to the Galeries Lafayette Coupole’s rooftop, where the lights are much brighter and the view at the top is always free!

Related: 25 Free things to do and see in Paris

Here are a few Theadorable insider tips, surefire to make your tour of my favorite “grand magasin” a breeze. Why, it’s in the bag!

A sweeping view of the "produits de beauté"

A sweeping view of the “produits de beauté”

Access

Make your entrance at the junction of rue Mogador and boulevard Haussmann. For stamina’s sake, pack a candy bar. You’ll find complimentary water and restrooms on every floor. (Tip: You can avoid the crowd by shopping on weekday mornings.)

Level 0—Welcome Area and Accessories

Here you’ll find a welcome desk, stocked with store maps. This is also where you’ll find out about all the special promotions. Don’t be daunted by the throngs of people. Like a Mont Blanc climb, the mob will dissipate with altitude as you head up. Keep both your wits and your bag in grip.

YSL under the dome

YSL under the dome

Stay focused and fast track it to the cosmetics and perfume area, located in the middle of the store. As you make your way, ogle the handbags, scarves, and hats to your heart’s desire, but don’t touch. Once a silk Kenzo scarf makes its soft and silky contact, you’ll never go Cheapo again. Yes, I have been there.

Level 0, Part II—Scents and Sensibility under the dome

Once you’ve reached the intricate maze of “produits de beauté,”  take time to smell the (sometimes synthetic bottled) roses, while gazing up at the stained glass “coupole” (domed ceiling). Installed in 1912, this Belle Epoch beauty with its Byzantine twist has never failed to bring me to tears or goose bumps. But if you’re like me, you’ll soon wipe your tears and then try out the new scents and colors by French classics like Guerlain, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Clarins. Free primping just got easier. (Tip: Watch out for uneven flooring and extension-cord coverings.)

Shoes along the stairs

Shoes along the stairs

Level Minus 1 (basement)—Shoes

Hold on to your hat, Cinderella! Make a detour downstairs to the brand-spanking-new and oh-so-tempting shoe zone, shining with 12,000 designer shoes and LED lighting. It’s the world’s largest shoe selection! Take the marble stairwell nestled in between the Gucci and Prada showrooms at ground level. On your way down, get an eyeful of the shoes exhibited in their little glass boxes. Lose your mind or just your glasses? Lost and found is also located on this level.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's swanky digs

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s swanky digs

Level 1—Designer Fashion

Now, on to the first floor above ground level. Jump off the escalator, and take a quick spin through the fantastic, high-ticketed (but well-worth a window-lick) showroom of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Also lean over the Art Nouveau balconies for a rather spectacular aerial view of the perfume and cosmetic booths below. The logos were installed specifically for this bird’s-eye view. You’ll find plush seating, complimentary water and a €1 coffee machine by the escalator.

Level 2—Contemporary Fashion

Here you find additional seating, more free water, a Coca-Cola Light machine, and Parisian closet staples like Kookai, Naf Naf, and Zara. The view keeps getting better with each floor.

A leg up under the dome

A leg up under the dome

Level 3—Seductive Fashion

Yes, Cheapos, you are in France, so this is what the lingerie and hosiery is officially called, and yes, it possesses the alluring goods to back up the name! Don’t forget to take yet another peek of the action below.

Level 4—Life’s a Beach

Happily, the crowd starts to thin out here on the bathing suit level, so take advantage of the empty seating, more complimentary water, and the photo booth. Did I say photo booth? Yes! Why not? On this level, you’ll finally earn your first view of the exterior peak of the dome.

Level 5—Toy Store

Hello Kitty, goodbye heart! Uh oh. Need I say more?

Level 6—Eiffel Towers, brides, and books—oh, my

Break time under the dome

Break time under the dome

Here you’ll find the city’s largest souvenir shop (who’d-a-thunk-it?), bridal gowns, and one of my favorite bookstores in Paris. Plus: wide designer tables, lanky stools, and red stylish lamps lining the large windows, with views to a kill (apologies to Duran Duran). Kick off your heels, troll the arts section, and grab a book and stool. Your back and feet will thank you!

Level 7—Vogue under the big top

Galeries Lafayette also offers free fashion shows, lit by a disco ball. They’re usually held during the spring and fall seasons. You can reserve a ticket merely by writing welcome@galerieslayfayette.com and asking for one. (Tip: arrive early to get a front row seat worthy of Anna Wintour.)

A view of the Eiffel Tower

A view of the Eiffel Tower

Level 8—Up on the roof

This is my favorite city-gazing hot spot. Arrayed for your panoramic pleasure, you’ll find the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra Garnier, and Sacré Coeur. So commandeer a ledge and recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture, dramatic cloud formations, sunsets, and non-stop people-watching!

Cheapos, repeat after me, “Non, je ne regrette rien!”

 

Want to know about other places to shop? Read about our 10 favorite shopping districts in Paris and tips to save big on shopping in Paris.

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