Neighborhood – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Paris: A Cheapo Day in the 20th Arrondissment https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-a-cheapo-day-in-the-20th-arrondissment.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-a-cheapo-day-in-the-20th-arrondissment.html#comments Mon, 22 Jul 2013 17:03:09 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=30342 For those who have been to Paris and feel like they’ve seen it all, head to the city’s 20th arrondissement for a change of pace. While not necessarily an “it” place to go, it’s just this lack of luster that makes it appeal to locals as a place to live and hang out. To see: » Read more

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For those who have been to Paris and feel like they’ve seen it all, head to the city’s 20th arrondissement for a change of pace. While not necessarily an “it” place to go, it’s just this lack of luster that makes it appeal to locals as a place to live and hang out.

To see:

The one big attraction in the neighborhood is the Père Lachaise cemetery. It’s famous, it’s beautiful, and it’s worth a trek to visit the resting places of Edith Piaf and Oscar Wilde, among others. You’ll see plenty of tourists around, but they don’t stick around for much else in the neighborhood. Plus, Parisians habitually stroll around the tombs as well, and many will come and tend the graves of loved ones, often laying flowers.

Or if you’re feeling a little nostalgic for the music of one of the cemetery’s most famous guests, consider taking a tour of Edith Piaf’s house. Call ahead for a guided visit of the Little Sparrow’s home in the heart of the 20th.

Chez Yu Belleville

Chez Yu offers €3 sandwiches packed with meat and vegetables if you want to eat on the go. Photo: Akuppa

To eat:

While there are plenty of places to eat in the 20th, the cuisine of the ethnically diverse Belleville neighborhood is the best place to go. Parisians pack the little Vietnamese and other Asian restaurants that serve up quick and easy fare and cheap prices. (See our favorites in our guide to cheap eats in Belleville.)

For those looking for something a bit more traditionally or at least un-Asian, head to the Mama Shelter for some jazzed up French cuisine or a fantastic pizza. No matter which you choose, your wallet won’t hate you at the end.

To do/drink:

Check in at the Bellevilloise, the hipster hangout that serves as a great bar, concert hall, and event venue.  Look for vintage flea markets or funk concerts on their schedule of events. Or just head there for late night drinks to rub elbows with Converse-clad young Parisians. (19-21 rue Boyer)

Wander down rue Dénoyez, the graffiti-covered street that also houses many of Belleville’s artists’ studios. Don’t hesitate to knock and enter one of the studios to see what the local painters and sculptors are up to these days. You might even be able to buy a piece of art. Look for the Portes Ouvertes, or open doors, in May when all of the artists in the neighborhood invite you in for a peak.

Spend the afternoon or evening at Aux Folies, the 20th’s other famed hipster hangout, on rue de Belleville. Tables fill the street and alleyway as locals knock back inexpensive wine and beer late into the evening. (8 rue de Belleville)

To stay:

There aren’t many hotels  in the 20th worth suggesting, but these two have our stamp of approval for price and quality.

Mama Shelter is a trendy design hotel that won’t break the bank, even if your room may feel chic. The restaurant downstairs is a happening place for brunch on Sunday.

Hotel les Chasonniers is a funky old-world hotel that is charming and comfortable. It’s just down the street from the cemetery.

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Barcelona: Which neighborhood is right for you? https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/barcelona-which-neighborhood-is-right-for-you.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/barcelona-which-neighborhood-is-right-for-you.html#respond Tue, 23 Aug 2011 14:50:55 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=19506 By Regina W. Bryan in Barcelona— I’ve lived all over Barcelona, from the upper Eixample by the Sagrada Familia, to the ancient heart of the city in the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). I now live near the sea, which suits me best. Which barri is right for your trip or move to Barcelona? That depends » Read more

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By Regina W. Bryan in Barcelona—

I’ve lived all over Barcelona, from the upper Eixample by the Sagrada Familia, to the ancient heart of the city in the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). I now live near the sea, which suits me best.

Which barri is right for your trip or move to Barcelona? That depends on what you’re after in your Barcelona experience… and your budget. Here are some questions to ask yourself when choosing a neighborhood:

Colorful El Raval. Photo: Liliane Callegari

1. Are you after hip, multicultural, central, cool, and inexpensive?

Then your barri is El Raval! Right in the center of the city off Pl. Catalunya, this barri is one of the up-and-coming zones of the city. Some of Barcelona’s trendiest bars and restaurants are found in El Raval, as are the contemporary art museums, the CCCB and MACBA. This is where skaters zip around and students share beers on ample squares. This is also where to come to get a late-night kebab.

Yes, there is crime and prostitution and drug use in El Raval, which may be why the prices are lower for apartments and hotels in this barri. If you’re a chica, consider a Raval spot on a well-lit street in the outer Raval, rather than deep within it.

Perks: Ridiculously cool barri with a lot going on.
Drawbacks: Crime, drugs, etc. Not much in the way of green spaces.

2. Are you after a large apartment with an elevator in a somewhat posh area of the city with lots of cutting-edge restaurants and bars, plus easy public transportation?

Then your barri is “Gay” Eixample! It’s called “Gay” because a lot of gay folks live in this area and hence, there are many gay-friendly clubs, bars and establishments. This Eixmple is much cooler than the other Eixample (there are two), and has a lot more going on.

For those moving to town, apartments in this zone are usually spacious with multiple rooms. Also, they tend to have elevators, unlike many buildings in the Barri Gotic and La Ribera/Born.

Perks: Very central, with excellent bars, stores, movie theaters. Newer buildings.
Drawbacks: Noise. Lots of traffic crosses the Eixample. Pollution.

3. Are you after cobblestone streets, buildings with “character,” bohemian bars and history?

Then your barri is La Ribera/Born or Barri Gotic! Two of my preferred areas of the city because of their charm ratio, they’ve got a lot of it! Living in “old” Barcelona is awesome because of the history that surrounds you. It’s like living in the book Shadow of the Wind. Many of the La Ribera/Born or Barri Gotic streets are quiet and lit up at night by enormous and ornate iron lamps.

Fun bars and innovative restaurants mingle with truly bohemian cafes in this barri, where there’s something for everyone. If you’re moving to Barcelona, many of the apartments in La Ribera/Born or Barri Gotic are large, but they may not have heating/elevators/fixtures from this century.

Perks: Central and exceedingly charming. Fun bars and nightlife. Quiet at night (for the most part).
Drawbacks: Too touristy, lack of supermarkets, petty theft.

4. Are you after an artsy-fartsy barri with a “local”/family vibe to it and over 15 plaças to lounge in?

Then your barri is Gracia! Sure, it’s not that central, but most who live in this fabulous area will tell you that they could care less. Nice apartments on skinny streets lined with super cool bars, boutiques and natural food stores keep Gracia people happy.

Once a village called, uh, Gracia, this area still maintains its small town feel, even though it is very much now part of Barcelona. From Gracia it’s only four Metro stops to get to Pl. Catalunya.

Perks: A barri for the people with markets, shops, cafes, bakeries, etc. Family-friendly.
Drawbacks: Small streets, a bit removed from the center, hard to park (if you have a car).

Additional tips:

I also really dig the barris Poble Sec (central, near nature), Poble Nou (near beach) and Sarria (out of the center). Bonanova and Tres Torres and anything on Diagonal are super posh areas with high rent and nice apartments.

Stay clear of distant barris such as Horta, La Pau and Besos. Vila Olimpica is nice for the beach, but doesn’t have much “community.” Living outside Barcelona in a small village is also an option, but unless you have a car you’ll sepend a lot of time on the train.

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Rome: How to spend the day in Trastevere https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-how-to-spend-the-day-in-trastevere.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-how-to-spend-the-day-in-trastevere.html#comments Fri, 29 Apr 2011 12:14:20 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=18091 Rome wasn’t built in a day… and you certainly can’t uncover all of its treasures in a day, either. But something you can do is uncover the city’s beauties neighborhood by neighborhood, devoting a day to each one. Which better neighborhood to start off with than the charming quartiere of Trastevere! Most locals consider Trastevere, » Read more

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Rome wasn’t built in a day… and you certainly can’t uncover all of its treasures in a day, either. But something you can do is uncover the city’s beauties neighborhood by neighborhood, devoting a day to each one. Which better neighborhood to start off with than the charming quartiere of Trastevere!

Most locals consider Trastevere, which literally means “across the Tiber,” to be the most authentic and charming part of Rome. This despite the neighborhood’s gentrification, due to its increasing popularity with American and international students and tourists.

It’s no wonder that everyone wants a piece of this picturesque part of the city. You’ll find yourself charmed by its winding alleyways and cobblestone streets, many of which are pedestrian only. And you’ll be delighted by its traditional mom-and-pop trattorias and the abundant array of restaurants and cafés from which to choose.

Here’s my guide to spending the perfect day in Trastevere. Get started early!

9 a.m. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Start off your day at the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere by having a cappuccino and cornetto (croissant) at any one of the cafés that surround the square. If you start off early, before the commuter crowd gets off to school and work, you may just have the piazza to yourself.

It’s not hard to guess what makes this piazza so wonderful. By day, you’ll witness locals and tourists alike gazing up at the golden mosaics of the Santa Maria in Trastevere church glimmering in the sun. The Basilica, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is also one of the oldest churches in Rome.

By night, this piazza is a totally different scene. The piazza livens up with its street performers, vendors, diners and a whole lot of people watching!

10:00 a.m. Piazza San Calisto

Next, head on down to Piazza San Callisto where you can witness locals shopping for fresh fruits and vegetables at the mercato. It’d be a good idea to pick up some fruit for yourself here to take with you on your tour.

10:30 a.m. Shopping or church

If it’s a Sunday, you’ll definitely want to hit up Rome’s largest mercato delle pulci (“flea market”) at Porta Portese (Via di Porta Portese). There’s nothing like spending a few hours scouring this street market for deals. Bat those pretty eyelashes of yours and ask the vendor for a “piccolo sconto” (a small discount) and you’re bound to get him to slash his prices by a euro or two. The street market feels miles long, with stalls and stalls of second-hand clothes, accessories, antiques, paintings and furniture. Just be mindful of your wallet and purse, as the later it gets, the more popular it becomes with pick-pockets.

If it’s not Sunday, you’ll want to head over to the Santa Cecilia in Trastevere Church (Piazza Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, 22) for some great frescoes. In particular, pay close attention to the Last Judgment fresco painted by Pietro Cavallini. Another striking thing to marvel is the sculpture of Saint Cecilia, after whom the church is named. The white marble statue shows the saint with her head half-severed and lies just below the main altar.

Noon. Lunch at Da Enzo

Da Enzo (Via dei Vascellari, 29) is a hole-in-the-wall restaurant with only about 10 tables or so. But that’s what makes it so good. A definite must-try for appetizers are the carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes). For pasta, try one of their classics: arrabbiata (spicy tomato), amatriciana (tomato, onion and pancetta) or carbonara (egg and pancetta). Throw in a bottle of their house wine and some tiramisù, and you’ll come out paying roughly €25 per person. Not bad for such a great meal!

3 p.m. Museum of Rome in Trastevere

After lunch, whip back around to the other side of Viale Trastevere to visit the Museum of Rome in Trastevere (Piazza Sant’Egidio). The museum dates back to 1601 and is located in a historic building that was once a convent. In 1970, the building became a place for preserving and showcasing Roman folklore, poetry, dialect and traditions. Later it underwent a facelift and reopened in 2000 as the Musuem of Rome in Trastevere, which today hosts exhibitions (many dedicated to photography), shows and conferences.

6 p.m. Window shopping

Spend an hour strolling and gazing at the boutiques around the Santa Maria in Trastevere area.

7 p.m. Aperitivo

When 7 p.m. rolls around, Romans head for the bars that offer “aperitivo.” Aperitivo is sort of like an American “happy hour” without the 2-for-1 drink specials. Instead, with the purchase of a drink (usually around €7-10), there’s a buffet of finger food for you to feast your appetite on.

My pick for Aperitivo, Freni e Frizioni (“Shocks and Brakes”), located at Via del Politeama, 4, is a mechanic shop-turned trendy aperitivo hangout. Just around the corner is another good spot, Friends (Piazza Trilussa) where hipsters tend to hang out at night in the piazza.

9 p.m. Dinner

My pick for dinner is Dar Poeta, located at Vicolo del Bologna, 45. Some of the best wood-oven pizza can be found here. The amatriciana and fior di zucca pizzas are a must try!

Have extra time?

In case you have more time in the neighborhood, some other places to check out are: Villa Farnesina, Gianicolo Hill, the Church of San Pietro in Montorio and the Church of San Francesco a Ripa.

Your favorite spots in Trastevere?

What did we miss? Have a favorite place to visit in Trastevere? Tell us about it in the comments section.

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Prague: A day and night in the Holesovice neighborhood https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-a-day-and-night-in-the-holesovice-neighborhood.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-a-day-and-night-in-the-holesovice-neighborhood.html#respond Fri, 04 Mar 2011 11:50:38 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=17086 This is the last of a three-post installment giving you a deeper look inside three of Prague’s most interesting neighborhoods. The first took us to the slightly edgy Zizkov neighborhood. The second brought us to a quaint area of this city in the Czech Republic called Vinohrady. This final neighborhood post brings us to Prague’s » Read more

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This is the last of a three-post installment giving you a deeper look inside three of Prague’s most interesting neighborhoods. The first took us to the slightly edgy Zizkov neighborhood. The second brought us to a quaint area of this city in the Czech Republic called Vinohrady.

This final neighborhood post brings us to Prague’s Holesovice district. Located on the other side of the river from Zizkov and Vinohrady, Holesovice is home to two of the city’s best parks (Stromovka and Letna), lots of cafes and tea houses (including one in a tower). Over the past few years it’s been shifting into one of the city’s best art areas, as many of the neighborhood’s old warehouses have been turned into galleries and exhibition spaces.

Here are some specific spots to check out to give you a full day’s worth of activities in Holesovice:

Something to start the day

Ouky Douky Prague

Ouky Douky café and bookshop
Janovského 1118/14, Prague 7, 170 00
Tel: +420 266 711 531

With great coffee and a relaxing vibe, Ouky Douky will start your day on the right foot. Besides good coffee they offer a full menu of breakfast options (as well as lunch and dinner). And after you’re finished, you can slip into the next room to peruse their equally atmospheric bookshop. Offering second-hand books, you’re sure to find a cheapo deal on their decent selection of English-language books. Internet is available, too.

Something to see

National Technical Museum
Kostelní 1320/42, Prague 7, 17078
Tel: +420 220 399 111
Web site

Recently reopened after a four-year renovation, the museum is the Czech Republic’s impressive nod to its proud industrial tradition. The museum includes over 50,000 items in its five permanent exhibitions covering transport, photography, printing, astronomy and architecture.

Something to eat

Fraktal
Smeralova 1, Prague 7, 170 00 Prague 7
Tel: +420 777 794 094
Web site

Fraktal serves great food in a comfortable, laid-back atmosphere. The eclectic menu features a variety of sandwiches, burgers (including veggie), quesadillas, chicken and fish, salads, soups and some interesting smaller dishes. They also have lots of great drinks, as Fraktal is one of the area’s best bars. To top it all of, the prices are cheapo friendly.

Something to buy

Designshop DOX
Dox Centre for Contemporary Art
Poupetova 1, Prague 7, 170 00
Tel: +420 774 145 434
Web site

Okay, maybe it’s not the cheapest option, but you can go home with something truly Czech. This excellent shop – housed inside Dox Centre for Contemporary Art – features items designed by the country’s best artists and artisans, both established and emerging. You’ll find glass, porcelain, jewelry and quirky little objects that show off an excellent sense of Czech humor. The Designshop DOX also carries a great selection of design books.

Something to drink

Cross-club
Plynarni 1096/23, Prague 7, 170 00
Tel: +420 736 535 053
Web site

Although this club is a bit off the beaten path, you can’t miss it. Outside there is an insane (in a good way) huge metal sculpture that looks like a carnival of hubcaps. Inside is just as visually stirring. The club offers music from around the world on two stages, experimental theater, exhibitions and poetry readings. Grab something to eat or drink at the club’s café or grab pizza on the first floor and enjoy it on the outside seating area for a breather before going back inside for more.

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5 tasty (and cheap) eats in London’s East End https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/london-5-tasty-and-cheap-eats-in-the-east-end.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/london-5-tasty-and-cheap-eats-in-the-east-end.html#respond Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:45:24 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=16995 By Lara Kavanagh and Daniel Gill in London— London’s East End is one of the trendiest spots on earth, its once dowdy streets undergoing continual gentrification. This is where to head to see some great alternative art galleries and to shop in everything from high-end boutiques to second-hand emporiums and artisan markets. There’s no end » Read more

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By Lara Kavanagh and Daniel Gill in London—

London’s East End is one of the trendiest spots on earth, its once dowdy streets undergoing continual gentrification. This is where to head to see some great alternative art galleries and to shop in everything from high-end boutiques to second-hand emporiums and artisan markets.

There’s no end of pricey restaurants and cafés offering admittedly great food, but there’s still a handful of places in the east offering tasty meals at affordable prices. Here are five of our favorites:

Tay Do Café
60 Kingsland Road
E2 8DP
Tel: 020 7739 0966
Web site
Hours: Mon-Fri: noon – 3 p.m., 5 p.m. – midnight; Sat noon – 3.30 p.m., 5 p.m. – midnight, Sun noon – 3.30 p.m., 5 p.m. – 11.30 p.m.

Sample price: Pho from £7

The point where Shoreditch High Street becomes Kingsland Road heralds the start of a string of affordable Vietnamese restaurants. Competition between them is fierce, and public opinion diverse; we personally like Tay Do Café, an unpretentious little canteen where there’s rarely a wait for a table and the prices stay reasonable. The pho soup is excellent, and other stand-out items are the grilled lamb chop starter and the Vietnamese spring rolls. The “bring-your-own booze” policy makes this a cheap and tasty option.

Raizes
460 Hackney Road
E2 9EG
Tel: 020 7739 2009
Web site
Hours: Mon to Fri noon – 3.30 p.m., 6 p.m. – 10.30 p.m.; Sat and Sun noon – 11 p.m.

Sample price: Feijoada £9

Venturing east from Shoreditch High Street, a walk up Hackney Road will bring you to Raizes, an authentic, low-key Brazilian restaurant, serving up huge flavorsome dishes and hosting the odd evening dance event and capoeira class. Here you can sample all manner of Brazilian delicacies ranging from polenta frita to feijoada, rounded up with desserts such as the delicious açaí na tigela, made from the acai super-food berry.

E. Pellicci
332 Bethnal Green Road
E2 0AG
Tel: 020 7739 4873
Hours: Mon to Sat 7 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Sample price: Chicken escalope, chips and peas £6.50

An East End institution and community hub, this simple London café feeds a happy, hungry mix of people, ranging from market traders and art students to TV celebrities. Whoever you are, the staff at Pellicci’s offer one of the warmest welcomes in London, alongside enormous portions of English and Italian favorites, such as top-notch traditional breakfasts, lasagne, breaded chicken and a variety of pies with lashings of gravy. You can, and should, get chips with everything.

The Camel/The Florist Arms
Both on Globe Road
E2 0JD

Camel Tel: 020 8983 9888
Hours: Daily noon – 11 p.m.

Florist Tel: 020 8981 1100
Hours: Mon to Sat 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.; Sun noon – 10.30 p.m.

Sample price: Pie and mash £9/Pizza from £6

If you’d like a simple, filling meal washed down with a few drinks in relaxed surrounds, head for one of these two delightful pubs, tucked away on Globe Road near Bethnal Green tube station. Simple pie and mash at the Camel or authentic Italian pizza at the Florist both make good stomach liners for a few rounds in either of these quality East End boozers.

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Prague: Vinohrady neighborhood walking tour https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-vinohrady-neighborhood-walking-tour.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-vinohrady-neighborhood-walking-tour.html#respond Tue, 08 Feb 2011 20:25:23 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=16762 This is the second installment of a three-post series dedicated to an in-depth look at three of Prague’s most noteworthy neighborhoods. In the first post we had a look at an edgy, happening area of the city called Zizkov. This second post will take us to the neighborhood of Vinohrady. I like to think of » Read more

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This is the second installment of a three-post series dedicated to an in-depth look at three of Prague’s most noteworthy neighborhoods. In the first post we had a look at an edgy, happening area of the city called Zizkov.

This second post will take us to the neighborhood of Vinohrady. I like to think of Vinohrady as Zizkov’s slightly older, more sophisticated, yet still hip sister. It’s a great place to walk, as it’s full of shops, restaurants and cafes, one of the city’s best squares and some lovely views.

As I did with Zizkov, here are some top spots to check out to have a full day’s worth of activity in Vinohrady!

Something to start to the day

Prague Cafe Fra

Books and coffee at the Cafe Fra. Photo: Lipar

Café Fra
Safarikova 15
120 00 Prague 2-Vinohrady
Tel: 773 458 073
Web site

Open the door and walk down the stairs into this compact, atmospheric café. It actually feels like you’re sitting inside a good book, and it’s no wonder as the wall to your left on entry is full of books. The venue, after all, combines good coffee with a bookstore and its own publishing company. You can also pick up a Moleskin journal. In the warmer months a few tables are set up outside, so you can sip your kava (coffee) or wine, streetside.

Something to see

The neighborhood

As I mentioned, Vinohrady is a nice place to walk, so I’d recommend just taking a stroll through its quaint streets. Café Fra (above) is actually an excellent place from which to begin your journey. Make a left outside the café’s door and then make either an immediate right onto the street Bruselska, which will take you down some quiet, pleasant streets, or go straight ahead onto Belehradska, which is full of shops (including the Antikvariat Belehradska, below). Follow Belehradska until you hit Rumunska, onto which you’ll make a right.

Just a few paces up, you’ll essentially run right into a big square–home to the lovely neo-Gothic St. Ludmila church–called Namesti Miru (Peace Square). If the weather is good, have a seat on one of its benches and take a rest and people watch along with the locals.

Something to eat

Pizzeria Grosseto
Francouzska 79/2
120 00 Praha 2-Vinohrady
Tel: 224 252 778
Web site

Once again, you’re in luck: The Pizzeria Grosseto, one of the two best pizza places in the city, is located directly across from Namesti Miru. I love pizza, so if I’m craving a good pie, this is where you’ll find me (it most often beats out Kmotra, my other favorite pizzeria, because it’s closer to where I live).

Located on a corner, it’s comprised of one big floor and a balcony area with about five more tables. Besides pizza, the restaurant also offers pasta dishes, salads and soups. In summer, definitely ask to sit in the garden (out back, just around the corner).

FYI: They recently opened another location right on the Vltava river (but it gets crowded fast).

Something to buy

Antikvariat Belehradska
Belehradska 644/96
120 00 Prague 2-Vinohrady, Czech Republic
Tel: 222 521 043
Web site

Back on Belehradska street, head into Antikvariat Belehradska. Antikvariats are scattered around the city. They’re a special kind of antique shop carrying rare books, prints, stamps, maps, postcards and other unique paper items. Be sure to have a look at the bins hanging from the windowsills outside, as they hold discounted items. You will find a small selection of English books inside, but most of the fun is looking through all the treasures.

Something to drink

Vinecko Wine Bar
Londýnská 135/29
120 00 Praha 2
Tel: 222 511 035
Web site

This hopping little wine bar is a refreshing way to begin, or carry out, the evening. With two rooms and two garden seating areas in summer, Vinecko offers yummy wines from the Czech Republic as well as abroad. If you get hungry, they offer some light snacks. Be sure to get there early or make a reservation beforehand, however, as this place gets packed early on.

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Paris: The shops, sights and cheap eats of Belleville https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-the-shops-sights-and-cheap-eats-of-belleville.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-the-shops-sights-and-cheap-eats-of-belleville.html#comments Mon, 31 Jan 2011 18:13:54 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=16632 Paris’ Belleville neighborhood is not exactly on the beaten path, but it’s a great opportunity for travelers to experience a less touristy side of the City of Lights. Of course the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre are must-see sights, but graffiti art and Vietnamese food can offer a different kind of insight (and be a » Read more

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Paris’ Belleville neighborhood is not exactly on the beaten path, but it’s a great opportunity for travelers to experience a less touristy side of the City of Lights. Of course the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre are must-see sights, but graffiti art and Vietnamese food can offer a different kind of insight (and be a reprieve from the tourist crushes).

History first

Belleville was actually a wine-growing town outside of the Paris city limits. Incorporated into the city during a geographic growth spurt in 1860, its working class population rebelled actively against the government, especially during the Paris Commune of 1871.

Parc de Belleville

View from the Parc de Belleville

The generally liberal neighborhood welcomed a slew of immigrants during the last century, notably Armenians, German Jews, Algerians, and Tunisian Jews. A heavy concentration of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants gives the entire area a “Chinatown” vibe, although the multicultural influences remain present in stores, religious establishments, and restaurants.

A cheap place to live for many students and immigrants, Belleville also offers the budget-conscious traveler plenty of ways to enjoy an afternoon in Paris. Head up rue de Belleville from the Belleville metro station, serviced by lines 2 and 11, and let the exploration begin!

Cheap eats

Local eateries in Belleville reflect the various ethnicities of its inhabitants, but the Asian cuisine is one of the biggest draws. Just below the metro station Belleville, on rue Louis Bonnet, several Vietnamese/Chinese restaurants (because one ethnicity is just too limited) offer classic dishes like pho and bo bun for well under €10. Tin Tin (17 Louis Bonnet, 75011) is a personal favorite.

Heading up the rue de Belleville, there are countless Asian places to choose from:

Restaurant Gui Xing (47 rue de Belleville, 75019) offers homemade dumplings, called raviolis. A filling plate of 15 pieces costs just €6 and you can watch them be made by the grandmother in the kitchen.

Chez Yu (40 rue de Belleville, 75020) offers €3 sandwiches packed with meat and vegetables if you want to eat on the go.

Rouleau de Printemps (42 rue de Tourtille, 75020) serves up filling dishes for around €5-7 off the main drag.

The Little Sparrow

One of the most iconic cafés in the neighborhood, Café aux Folies (8 rue de Belleville, 75020), is a happening place on weekends, especially in warmer months when the terrace fills up. France’s most famous singer, Edith Piaf, known as the “Little Sparrow,” once performed here early in her career.

A local celebrity in Belleville, Piaf was allegedly born under a lamppost at 72 rue de Belleville in 1915. Her legend lives on through her music (and in Marion Cotillard’s 2007 Oscar-winning performance in La Vie en Rose) but, sadly, the lamppost is gone.

A Bit of Culture

Soak up a little culture by exploring the bohemian vibe of Belleville. The rue Dénoyez is a legalized haven for graffiti artists with ever-changing murals and installations. The small street is home to several galleries and tucked away cafés as well.

Just up the street is the Cabaret Populaire (103 rue Julien Lacroix, 75020, Web site), a creperie, bar and slam-poetry venue. English speakers are welcome to perform or just kick back and listen with relatively cheap drinks in a friendly environment. Performances range from dance and poetry to acoustic blues and stand-up.

Shopping and Markets

Every Tuesday and Friday the boulevard de Belleville, starting at the Belleville Metro station, becomes a huge outdoor market. Influenced heavily by its Asian and North African residents, the market offers an enormous selection of food from all over the world, but the prices are what attract most market-goers. Incredibly inexpensive fresh produce and fish packs in the crowds, but the pushing and shoving doesn’t seem to bother the locals very much.

Heading up rue de Belleville, the street is lined with stores and bazaars selling everything from cookware and Asian decorations to art supplies and American-style Halloween costumes. If you need something, you’ll probably be able to get it at one of these stores for the best price in town.

At the end of the adventures, if you aren’t too tired from walking up and down the steep rue de Belleville, head to the Parc de Belleville, a tiny patch of green. Take a seat and soak up the city’s rooftop views. It’s a great way to round off the afternoon.

Looking for more neighborhoods? Read our post on best neighborhoods by activity.

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Prague: A day in the Zizkov neighborhood https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-a-day-in-the-zizkov-neighborhood.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-a-day-in-the-zizkov-neighborhood.html#comments Fri, 21 Jan 2011 11:57:13 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=16389 Prague is comprised of 22 administrative districts (referred to as Prague 1—or “Praha 1” in Czech, Prague 2, Prague 3 and on and on). However, when Czechs refer to the area or neighborhood they are in, they use the cadastral area name as opposed to a number. To clarify, look at the street signs (red » Read more

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Prague is comprised of 22 administrative districts (referred to as Prague 1—or “Praha 1” in Czech, Prague 2, Prague 3 and on and on). However, when Czechs refer to the area or neighborhood they are in, they use the cadastral area name as opposed to a number.

To clarify, look at the street signs (red rectangular signs with white lettering, located at the beginning of the street on the side of a building) where you’ll see the name of the street, with the name of the cadastral area below it, followed by “Praha 1” or whichever district number you happen to be in.

For this post, we’re going to the area of Zizkov (located in Prague 3). This will begin a series of three posts dedicated to a particular neighborhood of the city, which I highly recommend venturing into. Each will include a look at several spots to visit to experience the area (essentially a full day’s worth of activity!).

Zizkov at a glance

I’ve heard Zizkov referred to as the “Harlem of Prague.” Not knowing Harlem, I can’t say whether the comparison is true, but I understand that the reference was made to convey Zizkov’s slightly edgy feel (in comparison to areas in the dead center, like Old Town or New Town). I personally recognize Zizkov for its numerous bars, clubs, restaurants and cafes. To me the neighborhood feels like a place where people live as opposed to a place where people did live that got turned into a tourist area.

Here’s where to go:

1. Something to start the day

Café Pavlac
Víta Nejedlého 487/23
130 00 Praha 3
Hours: Mon-Fri, 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat and Sun, noon-11 p.m.

Serving breakfast (as well as lunch and dinner), which of course includes coffee, this well-designed café’s name refers to the art gallery it contains. (“Pavlac” means gallery.) Although the gallery doesn’t seem to change very often, the interior of the space is, in itself, something pretty to look at. Its centerpiece is a steel bar with a swirly design made from tiny points that light shines through. Don’t miss the garden courtyard in summer!

2. Something to see

Vitkov National Memorial
U Pamatniku 1900
Praha 3

After a coffee, get your blood pumping further with a big hike up the hill to Vitkov. Completed in 1932, this robust functionalist building was recently reopened after a two-year renovation (and several years remaining functionless). It contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and a gigantic statue that you can see at various points throughout the city: the Hussite leader Jan Zizka on a horse (it’s said to be the largest equestrian statue in the world).

The memorial is also now home to the museum of modern Czechoslav and Czech history. Its café offers an exceptional view of the city, which you can actually view best via the building’s look-out point (80 Czk). Of course you can opt to skip all that and just grab a bench or a spot on the grass in the park next to the memorial. The views from the park are stellar, as well!

3. Something to eat

Taverna Olympos
9 Kubelikova
130 00 Praha 3
Web site

My pick for lunch doesn’t serve Czech food, but rather some of the city’s best Greek dishes. Think hummus, tzatziki, grilled meats, ouzo and baklava served in an atmospheric courtyard setting. Although the prices are just fare, you can save a bit by making a meal out of hot and cold starters. Getting a good table for lunch at the Taverna Olympos is usually pretty easy, but it wouldn’t hurt to make a reservation (which is a good idea on the weekend and necessary for dinner).

4. Something to buy

Flamingopark
Vlkova 11
130 00 Prague 3

Owned by an Australian and Czech couple, this eclectic shop offers home accessories, clothing, jewelry, bags, toys and various other limited edition gift options. Personally selected by the duo, they write on their website, “We source our products and suppliers personally. No bulk manufacturing, no middleman. We try to find our way to the artisans, designers and skilled workmen to collaborate with them to produce unique products that we can then present to you.”

5. Something to drink and beyond

Palac Akropolis
Kubelíkova 1548/27
130 00, Praha 3
Web site

Comprised of a big hall, a small hall, a theater bar and a café and restaurant, Akropolis is a mainstay of culture in Prague. Featuring acts from all over the world, this music, theater and drinking venue is so many things (sometimes all in one night) that you can’t help but have a great time there. Descend into its labyrinth for the evening and you’ll most likely emerge (chances are, at the crack of dawn) with memories of a night that you’ll hold dear forever.

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Paris: A Cheapo day in the Marais https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-a-cheapo-day-in-the-marais.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-a-cheapo-day-in-the-marais.html#comments Tue, 09 Nov 2010 16:59:57 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=15108 The Marais, one of Paris’ most adorable neighborhoods, is home to chic boutiques, hip restaurants, and royal scenery. The trendy area also boasts rents that rival Manhattan’s Chelsea and West Village (with a gay culture to match!). However, there is plenty for Cheapos to enjoy as they walk through the city’s historical Jewish quarter and » Read more

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The Marais, one of Paris’ most adorable neighborhoods, is home to chic boutiques, hip restaurants, and royal scenery. The trendy area also boasts rents that rival Manhattan’s Chelsea and West Village (with a gay culture to match!). However, there is plenty for Cheapos to enjoy as they walk through the city’s historical Jewish quarter and vestige of medieval Paris.

Here are a few suggestions for spending a fabulous (and Cheapo) day in the Marais:

1. Coffee kick-off

Start your walk out with a coffee at the old-worldly Café Les Philosophes (28, rue Vieille du Temple). The white-apron-clad waiters serve up standard espresso at decent prices. Moreover, the people-watching is amazing.

2. Vintage wears

Next, stroll one block north and turn right onto the rue des Rosiers, a tiny street lined with Kosher eateries, falafel joints, and boutiques.

Stroll past the eateries (for now) until you arrive at the quirky vintage shop called Vintage Désir (32, rue des Rosiers). Men and women can appreciate the many inexpensive vintage clothing options, but be prepared to dig and be elbowed by fashion-forward Frenchies.

Nearby Free ‘P’ Star (8, rue St-Croix de la Bretonnerie) and The King of Frip (33, rue du Roi de Sicile) are some other great alternatives to the pricey boutiques.

3. Falafel break

For cheap eats in the neighborhood, skip the restaurants and indulge in the area’s delicious falafel joints. You might initially scoff at the idea of eating falafel in Paris, but after one bite from famed L’As du Fallafel (34, rue des Rosiers) you’ll agree with Lenny Kravitz (their celebrity patron) that it’s the best in the world. And at only €5, it’s a steal for Paris. When the guy at the counter asks you a question, say, “Oui” – he is asking if you want spicy sauce!

Across the street is Micky’s Deli, a play on the New York deli scene, which offers a burger, fries, and drink for only €8.50.

If you have time for dessert, swing by the legendary Mazet de Montargis (37 Rue des Archives, Marais) for a tasty candy sample. It’s one of our favorite free things to do in Paris.

4. Visiting Victor

For some culture, continue down rue des Rosiers and turn left towards the Place des Vosges, the royal square built under King Henry IV, France’s beloved king. If the quaint park and uniformly beautiful buildings aren’t enough, head over to the Maison de Victor Hugo (6, Place des Vosges). Here the author of the “Hunchback of Notre Dame” and “Les Misérables” lived, and its permanent collection is free to visit. It’s open every day but Monday from 10 a.m.-6 p.m.

5. Time for an aperitif

You must be exhausted — and thirsty! It’s time for an aperitif. Don’t avoid drinking in the Marais simply because you assume that prices will be high. Rather, indulge in the happy hour culture and grab a pint for €3.70 at the Open Café (17, rue des Archives, happy hour from 6-10 p.m.), a gay hotspot that’s also “straight-friendly.”

If you want a more mixed crowd, head over to La Perle (78, rue Vieille du Temple) for an inexpensive glass (or carafe) of wine. The young hipster crowd spills out onto the sidewalk until closing on weekends.

After a cheapo day in the Marais, you’ll be well fed, more cultured, and probably tipsy enough to think that your new vintage hat really does look incredible on you. Hey, it’s the Marais. Anything goes!

Your favorite places in the Marais

Do you have a favorite place to visit in the Marais? Share with us in the comments section!

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Free Art Gallery Tour in Madrid’s Lavapies Neighborhood https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/madrid-free-art-gallery-walking-tour-through-the-lavapies-neighborhood.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/madrid-free-art-gallery-walking-tour-through-the-lavapies-neighborhood.html#comments Tue, 26 Oct 2010 19:10:57 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=14610 Madrid’s Golden Triangle of art museums is world renowned, but there is much more to the city’s art scene than the Prado, Thyssen and Reina Sofia. So when you’re all Prado-ed out hit the streets of Lavapies to experience Madrid’s art and culture in its most eclectic, current and raw form. Lavapies is the city’s » Read more

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Madrid’s Golden Triangle of art museums is world renowned, but there is much more to the city’s art scene than the Prado, Thyssen and Reina Sofia. So when you’re all Prado-ed out hit the streets of Lavapies to experience Madrid’s art and culture in its most eclectic, current and raw form.

Lavapies is the city’s most diverse neighborhood and it serves as inspiration for a whole host of artists, actors, writers and musicians who are all in search of that laid-back bohemian vibe that is so apparent throughout the area. Tucked away amongst the curry houses and tapas bars you will find endless artistic enclaves from cultural centers, dance studios and ceramic workshops to tiny art galleries, inspirational bookshops and art cafes–all begging to be explored.

Art walking tour Madrid

Click for a larger map image.

1. La Fabrica Galeria
C/Alameda 9, 28014
Tuesday-Saturday: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4.30 p.m.-8.30 p.m.
Web site

Start your tour just outside Lavapies at La Fabrica Galeria. This tiny yet very atmospheric space displays temporary exhibitions by national and international contemporary young artists. There is a large emphasis on modern media as a vehicle for producing art and often exhibitions are video or photography based.

2. Galeria Helga de Alvear
C/Doctor Fourquet 12, 28012
Tuesday-Saturday: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.-8:30 p.m.
Web site

Next stop is the must-see Galeria Helga de Alvear. Here you will find conceptual and minimalist exhibitions that use projections and installations to really involve the visitor and create a thought-provoking experience.

3. La Libre
C/Argumosa 39, 28012

Refuel at La Libre. This old Lavapies bookshop has just had a makeover and is now a trendy vintage style bookshop-cafe that serves up cake and coffee as you browse new and second-hand books.

4. La Tabacalera
C/Embajadores 53, 28012
Web site

Crossing over Plaza Lavapies you will find the newest addition to the neighborhood–La Tabacalera. This “self-managed social center” is one of a kind and is housed in an old tobacco factory. The Ministry of Culture snapped up the space with an aim to converting it into a new art gallery. However, lack of funds has delayed the process and the building has been handed over to the local community.

The center is comprised of a network of different groups who use their skills to run various free activities and services. You can take a dance class, learn to sew, visit the library, use the indoor skate park, see an exhibition and even exchange clothes in the free shop.  There is a group for practically anything including sustainable architecture, communications, martial arts and flamenco.

In early 2011 the government will decide if they have the funds to restore the building and open the new art gallery or if the local community will continue running La Tabacalera. Either way, there will certainly be something of artistic interest occupying the space.

5. Espacio Espora
C/Embajadores 35, 28012
Tuesday-Saturday: 5 p.m.-9 p.m.
Web site

Heading up the road be sure to stop off at Espacio Espora. This unusual gallery strives to create a space where street art and urban culture can shine. The focus is on contemporary emerging art projects displayed in the gallery or on the street. There is also a shop where you can buy unique tee-shirts designed by artists.

Madrid’s art scene is constantly evolving and there are always new things to discover, most of which offer free entry just like the galleries listed here–so what are you waiting for? Get out and get exploring!

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