The Isola di San Michele is Venice’s island of the dead. It lies in the lagoon between the Fondamente Nuove and the glassmaking island of Murano. Indeed, the view of the cemetery from the Fondamente Nuove is one of the most celebrated of Venetian waterscapes. The severe red walls of the Isola di San Michele contrast with the lovely off-white stone of the Renaissance façade of the Church of San Michele and the adjacent Cappella Emiliana.

Venice’s first Renaissance church

The cemetery island is worth a visit even if name-checking dead poets isn’t your kind of fun. You’ll get a chance to see Venice’s very first Renaissance church. It is a very fine piece of architecture, dedicated to the Archangel Michael who is often represented in Western art as weighing the good and evil works of the deceased. St Michael and his scales are thus heavily embedded into the Catholic iconography of death and Paradise. So he’s a safe choice as patron of an island of the dead. It was a prescient decision to dedicate the place to St Michael, for this was not always an island of the dead. It was only in the early nineteenth century that the island was converted to a cemetery—part of a clean-up program designed to make the main Venetian islands a little more sanitary.

Visiting the island

Most vaporetti pass by the island without stopping. It is only those on Routes 4.1 and 4.2 which routinely serve Cimitero, and it is certainly worth a stop. This little island is a haven of silence just a short ride from the crowded heart of Venice. Local families often head out to the island on a sunny Sunday in spring or summer, but if you want to witness the Isola di San Michele in its most sombre mood, visit the cemetery on All Souls Day (Giorno dei Morti), celebrated on 2 November each year. Whatever day you visit, the Isola di San Michele is a quiet reminder that Venetians have refined the business of death and burial into a high art.

This is the first of two posts on Venice by Nicky and Susanne. Their second post looks at other islands in the Venetian Lagoon.

For more tips on Venice, check out EuroCheapo’s city guide.

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With so few tourists walking down the city’s quiet calli (small streets), this is the quietest time to savor the city. How lovely it is to see the Rialto Market all lit up day and night. The restaurants propose scrumptious menus, while the hotels decorate themselves in their finest. Thousands of lights reflect onto the canals and create a magical environment. Even without tourists, the city feels alive.

Christmastime also offers holiday markets in the small towns and cities of the Veneto region. These markets, with their lively colors and goods for sale, attract thousands of tourists and locals.

Here are some of my favorite ways to celebrate the season in Venice:

Santo Stefano Christmas Market
Campo Santo Stefano
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
Through December 24
Vaporetto n. 1/82 stop Accademia

From the beginning of December through December 24 in Campo Santo Stefano the city holds a Christmas market that offers a traditional Venetian atmosphere. Visitors will be able to immerse themselves into a magical world of lights, colors and flavors while experiencing the handicrafts of the Veneto Region.

The market offers its visitors the perfect balance of art and folklore. Walking amongst the wooden market stalls (similar to those used in northern Europe) alongside the magnificent Venetian buildings is an unforgettable experience. Check out the typical Christmas offerings, including Christmas ceramics, dolls, candles, decorations, necklaces, masks, handmade soaps and Murano glass balls. Of course, you’ll also be able to taste the city’s seasonal treats.

Murano: Glass Christmas
Vaporetto n. DM Stop: Murano
Through the end of December

Another lovely market, the “Natale di Vetro,” or “Glass Christmas,” takes place in Murano from the December 5 till the end of December. Murano Island is located a couple of vaporetto stops from Venice.

On December 6, the island celebrates Saint Nicholas (San Nicolo), the patron saint of glass makers, with a glass Christmas market. Stalls offer hundreds of glass Christmas decorations, all of which are produced on the island by master glass makers. The market also includes an exhibition of handmade Murano chandeliers, which light up the ancient portico of the San Pietro Martire cloister.

There are all kinds of entertainment offerings, from concerts to glass-blowing demonstrations.

Jesolo Lido: Sand Nativity
From December 8

In Jesolo Lido (the famous seaside resort only an hour away by bus from Venice) you can admire the Jesolo Sand Nativity, one of the finest in the world. The show is open from December 8 onward, from 10 a.m.-noon and 2 p.m.-7 p.m. and takes place in one of the city’s nicest squares. This year one of the sculptures will be dedicated to Nelson Mandela.

Jesolo Lido: Father Christmas Run
Piazza Mazzini, Jesolo
December 19

Another of Jesolo’s events is the “Babbo Natale Run 2010” (the Father Christmas run). Held on December 19 the run starts at the Piazza Mazzini at 2:30 p.m. and features athletes running while dressed as Father Christmas.

The post Venice Holiday Events: Markets, Glass Christmas and more appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Glass pass

A trip to Murano is easy, but here’s a quick primer: First, we recommend wandering the streets of Venice proper. Get lost (it’s easy to do!) and browse the windows of the trendy glass shops. Chances are you’ll fall in love with a delicate lamp, or maybe a colorful ashtray, or just a pretty set of wine glasses.

Then, instead of paying retail, hop on a vaporetto and head to Murano. Take in a free glass blowing demonstration. If you’re not visiting one of the bigger factories, there’s no need to make an appointment. Simply stop in and start watching. Most artisans will let you walk right into their warehouses while they’re working. If you’re really lucky, you’ll meet and talk to one of the traditionally trained glass blowers or artists.

Next, ask for a sample (this really only applies to those smaller shops, not factories). Sometimes, they’ll hand you a remnant of colored glass free of charge. Most often, you can buy their unique glass art at a discounted cost.

Or, if you’ve got €5.50 (€3 reduced) to spare, take a tour of the Museo Vetrario (The Glass House). For information including restoration projects and opening and closing times, go here (click on the subheads on the left).

Fun fact: The most well known glass blowers in town are Pauly & C (Compagnia Veneto). Visit their web site (in Italian only) for information about the artists that work there.

Mura-no-no

Ok, so it’s true that people in glass houses (or factories) shouldn’t throw stones. But, just a quick and diplomatic tourist trap note: We’ve heard tales that the Vecchia Murano Glass Factory can be pricey once you’re through the front door. As usual, we suggest sticking with the Ma and Pop glass shops and those single artisan stores.

For more on visiting Murano, go here.

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