julia child – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Paris: Our 10 favorite shopping districts https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-our-10-favorite-shopping-districts.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-our-10-favorite-shopping-districts.html#respond Mon, 14 May 2012 17:36:41 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=23521 Tripping to Paris? Do you plan to shop? Well then, look and listen! Throughout Paris, there are shopping zones where you can buy anything, as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores carry similar items. Shopping fanatics, unite. Here’s a mini-guide. So dust off the printer! But first, a few tips: 1. In France, » Read more

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Tripping to Paris? Do you plan to shop? Well then, look and listen! Throughout Paris, there are shopping zones where you can buy anything, as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores carry similar items. Shopping fanatics, unite. Here’s a mini-guide. So dust off the printer!

But first, a few tips:

1. In France, most ATM machine “keys” do not include letters, just numbers. So what to do if you’ve memorized your password as “Rosebud” and not as “9693292”? Get thee quickly to a payphone booth! Here the keys include both numbers and letters. Voilà, Super Man! This little tip saves the day every time. (More advice about ATMs in Europe.)

2. Looking for discounts? Shop during the two annual Big Sale (“Solde”) periods in either January or June. This year’s summer sales launch on Wednesday, June 27, 2012.

3. Got to shop ’til you drop on a Sunday? I recommend hoofing it to either Abbesses or the Marais, where most stores are open seven days a week. Here you’ll also find beaucoup bars, cafés and pâtisseries going full blast!

4. Check out our full list of tips to save big on shopping Paris — everything you need to know for a perfect shopping spree!

Now on to the list:

Hoof it to the Porte de Vanves flea market!

Flea Markets

Bitten by the Flea? Visit the Marché aux puces de la Porte de Vanves (14th arrondissement, Métro Porte de Vanves) or the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (18th arrondissement, Métro: Porte de Clignancourt).

Tip! The 95-bus line connects both “puces.” See this Web site for a handy 2012 listing of Paris Fleas, brocantes and vide-greniers.

Trendy (and affordable) Labels

Looking to shake up your wardrobe with a little Zara, Etam or Naf-Naf? Here’s where I go-go for my Chains of Love: Boulevard Haussmann, rue de Rennes, and rue du Commerce, along with rue de Rivoli and Champs-Elysées.

During the Big Sales, the Zara at 40 rue de Rennes usually serves as one of “last stops” for the chain’s leftover clothing.

Bargain Bins

I often find my bargain bin bliss at the Sympa shops on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart (Métro Abbesses or Anvers). Located at the foot of Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre, the stock is always cha-cha-changing. Expect Best Mountain, Etam, Naf-Naf, Sinéquanone, and Undiz but at a fraction of their original cost.

Don your elbow pads and eat a healthy breakfast. Game on! (Read more about Sympa shops in Paris.)

Vintage Clothing

Throughout in Paris, you’ll find “friperies” (secondhand clothing shops) and “depôts-ventes” (consignment shops). I’d either book it to Abbesses (Métro Abbesses, 18th arrondissement) or the Marais (Métro Saint-Paul, 4th arrondissement).

Both have deep pockets of vintage clothing shops. Le Caverne à Fripes at 25 rue Houdon in Abbesses or FREE’P’STAR at 61 rue de la Verrerie in the Marais are peek-a-boo-worthy! (Read more about vintage clothing shops in Paris.)

Funky designer shops and studios

Rocking a fairy tale vibe, the skinny rue d’Orsel (Métro Abbesses or Anvers) is lined with a row of clothing shops and studios. Their kitschy, candied-colored vitrines always stop me in my tracks. Located in the textile district, the artists here play with the full spectrum of fabrics like there’s no tomorrow.

Check out: Zélia’s Sur la Terre Comme au Ciel, Marie’s Le Boudoir de Marie, and Kitty’s Killy Grind.

Fabric

At the foot of Sacré Coeur in Montmartre (Métro Abbesses or Anvers) is where I hunt for fabric and notions. I’d kick off the quest on Rue d’Orsel (north of Metro Anvers in the 18th). Flaunting four floors of textiles, notions and baubles, both the Marché Saint Pierre on 2 rue Charles Nodier, and the Tissus Reine at 5 Place Saint-Pierre (with its fifty miniature mannequins!) are definitely worth a visit. Yes, you’ve got the notion!

Looking for African Megawax cloth? Trek it to the nearby Barbès neighborhood. Tip! Most of the fabric is precut at six meters (about 18 feet, enough for two shirts or dresses). Look for the €10 piles of cloth!

Kitchenware

WWJCD? (What would Julia Child do?) That joke never gets old! For gastromical sakes, she’d hunt the aisles of kitchen-equipment specialist E. Dehillerin! “Thunderstruck!” was her description of the heated encounter she first had there. Located at 18 Rue Coquillière (Métro: Les Halles), the centuries-old shop’s shine has not dulled the least bit.

Also, check out Julia’s photograph behind the cash register!

Tableware

When it comes to dinner parties, presentation is everything! So channel your inner Martha Stewart, and roll on over to shops along rue de Paradis (south of Métro Poissoniere, 10th arrondissement). There’s also a row of funky tableware shops along rue de Rennes (Métro: Rennes, 6th arrondissement). For the love of whimsy, all three shops are worth a pop-by: La Vaissellerie (85), Culinarion (99), and Plastiques (103). (Read more on buying kitchenware in Paris.)

Vintage Postcards

One of my favorite hunting grounds for “cartes postale ancienne” (known as CPA in the trade) is at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès) in the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt). Stocked with postcards organized by category or genre, if you’re looking for a specific category, don’t be afraid to ask! The Porte de Vanves Flea also carries them, along with vintage magazines.

Books

Also at the Clignancourt Flea, you’ll find one of my favorite bookshops. La librairie de l’Avenue is a large but still intimate bookshop, stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. After hunting at the Porte de Vanves Flea, book it to the book and prints flea market. Located at intersection of Rue Brancion and Rue Fizeau in the 15th arrondissement, the market is open Saturdays and Sundays.

Your favorite shopping spots?

Cheapos, do you have a favorite shopping district in Paris? Do spill!

Also in our guide: If you’re planning your Paris vacation and need suggestions for great affordable hotels, check out our reviews of budget hotels in Paris. All of our picks have been visited, inspected and approved by a EuroCheapo editor. Read more in our Paris guide and grab some helpful tips on where to stay during your visit.

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Paris Shopping: Buy French kitchenware with the locals https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-shopping-french-kitchenware.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-shopping-french-kitchenware.html#comments Mon, 18 Jan 2010 16:30:43 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=7605 Like snowflakes, the truly sensational Soldes by Paris (annual winter sale) has recently returned to Paris, so why not outfit your kitchen with a few French classics? Here are my favorite hot spots for picking up kitchenware, guaranteed to make you the toast of the town! So shop to it, Cheapos! 1. Let’s dish at » Read more

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Like snowflakes, the truly sensational Soldes by Paris (annual winter sale) has recently returned to Paris, so why not outfit your kitchen with a few French classics?

Here are my favorite hot spots for picking up kitchenware, guaranteed to make you the toast of the town! So shop to it, Cheapos!

1. Let’s dish at La Vaissellerie

La Vaissellerie is a Cheapo's cup of tea.

La Vaissellerie is a Cheapo’s cup of tea.

Beloved chain La Vaissellerie has five locations peppered throughout the city. For your bargain shopping pleasure, may I suggest starting out at the shop at 85 rue de Rennes (Metro Saint-Sulpice). Here you’ll find baskets of porcelain tableware, wedged in between towering stacks of dinner plates.

Slashed prices are usually hand-written in thick black dry marker across each dish in a Zorro-like fashion. Keep your eyes peeled for iconic French beauties such as ramekins, espresso cups, soufflé dishes, brightly colored café saucers, soup bowls, tarte and quiche pans, all costing just a few euros!

2. Get your kitsch-on at Porte de Vanves flea market

If you, too, believe that minor scratches and dents add value (for love of mana!), the Porte de Vanves flea market is definitely the hunting ground for you. Cheapos, the selection is beyond belief. Several stalls are even dedicated to cookware and table settings gone just to name a few. (Arrive early, though, because this flea market starts to shut down at noon.)

3. What would Julia Child do?

For culinary sakes, she’d haunt the aisles of kitchen-equipment specialist E. Dehillerin! “Thunderstruck!” was her description of the heated encounter. The attraction was instant, mutual, and long lasting.

Located at 18 Rue Coquillière (Metro: Les Halles), the centuries-old shop’s gleam has not dulled the least bit. Though not a Cheapo haven in the price tag sense, you’ll find the shop’s stock possesses all the right ingredients for dreamy window-shopping. So take in its vast collection of cookware in bright copper, cast iron, and glossy enamel, too, while mulling slowly over endless gastronomical possibilities.

Also, check out Julia’s photograph behind the cash register. Julia’s own kitchen, along with the actual culinary tools she purchased at Dehillerin, is now on display at Smithsonian!

Forever pinching from my favorite French Chef, this has been Theadora Brack! Bon appétit, Cheapos!

(And bravo Meryl Streep!!!)

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Paris Tip: The best tarte in town! https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tip-the-best-tarte-in-town.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tip-the-best-tarte-in-town.html#comments Mon, 31 Aug 2009 14:31:27 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=5387 Looking for the best tarte in Paris? For a delectable inside scoop, I asked a baker’s dozen friends to name their favorite boulangerie or pâtisserie. Nearly everyone in Paris is both food critic and advocate. So, while visiting the City of (De)lights, take advantage of the gastronomical convictions of the knowledgeable locals. Hint: Look for » Read more

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Looking for the best tarte in Paris? For a delectable inside scoop, I asked a baker’s dozen friends to name their favorite boulangerie or pâtisserie.

Nearly everyone in Paris is both food critic and advocate. So, while visiting the City of (De)lights, take advantage of the gastronomical convictions of the knowledgeable locals. Hint: Look for lines snaking out of doorways—that’s always a good sign. Ask merchants for personal recommendations. And if you’re invited to a dinner party, brace yourself for at least one heated debate about food, and when it erupts, for the love of Julia Child, don’t take cover—take notes!

Cheapos, let’s take it to the streets (or the table)!

Sandrine’s pick: Gérard Mulot at 76 rue de Seine (Metro Odéon)

“I’m gluttonous!” confesses harpist Sandrine, “so on special occasions, I indulge in their decadent tarte à la orange. It always pleases!” (By the way, Sandrine taught Kirsten Dunst how to play the harp for her title role in film, Marie Antoinette. What if she’d said, “Let them eat tartes?”)

Stéphanie’s pick: Pâtisserie Arnaud Larher at 53 rue Caulaincourt (Metro Lamarck-Caulaincourt)

“He makes extremely good pies and tartes, but he’s more famous for his chocolate and award-winning macarons,” according to media analyst Stéphanie.

Yohan’s pick: Arnaud Delmontel at 57 rue Damrémont (Metro Lamarck-Caulaincourt)

“In France, many bakeries don’t make the pastries themselves, so it is difficult to find really great ones, but this one makes it all on the premises,” says television editor Yohan.

Both Yohan and Stéphanie also mentioned: Les Petits Mitrons at 26 rue Lepic (Metro Blanche)

Ooh la la; More tartes at Le Petits Mitrons

Ooh la la; More tartes at Les Petits Mitrons

“Paris is changing. Most of the good bakeries and patisseries are near La Madeleine or across the Seine, so we’re very lucky to have three so close to our apartment,” Yohan says. Stephanie adds, “I highly recommend Chef Samie Didda’s mouth-watering chocolate tarte.”

Jeff’s pick: Encore! Les Petits Mitrons

Musician and composer Jeff Hallam often takes his band here just before or after rehearsals. “The crust is confection perfection. They caramelize the bottom of the light and flaky crust with butter and sugar. It’s to die for!”

Karine’s pick: Et encore une fois! Les Petits Mitrons

Engineer Karine admits, “But when I was younger I loved tartes aux fruits from Tarte Julie.” (Tarte Julie is a national franchise that’s been around since 1974.)

Swati’s pick: Les Petits Mitrons (must be habit forming!)

It wasn’t the pies in the window that caught clothing designer Swati’s eye during one of her early morning walks. It was the little bags of soft and chewy chocolate chip cookies. “Along with the music of Prince, they soon became my dinner party staple.”

Cat’s pick: Les Petits Mitrons (maybe we’re on to something?)

Gypsy band violinist Cat (a confirmed French Cheapo at heart, down to her Monoprix t-shirts) buys by the slice for just a few euros. “The slices are big. The crust is thin. It’s breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Miam! Miam! And the pink boxes they use are super cute!”

The scene at Legendre. Yummy.

The scene at Legendre. Yummy.

Laurent’s pick: Pâtisserie Legendre at 2 Butte aux Cailles (Metro Place d’Italie)

“To tell the truth, my favorite bakery is always the one closest to my apartment! What can I say, I like to buy local. It makes me feel connected,” says film editor Laurent.

Annelise’s pick: Tarte Julie outlets located all over France.

“When I don’t make my own tartes myself, I buy from Tarte Julie, or the frozen food store Picard. Yes, the frozen tarte is surprisingly nice, but it’s not as good as mine!” boasts book editor Annelise, referring to two popular chains.

Nausicaa’s pick: Pâtisserie Legendre

“Maybe it’s not the cheapest, but the pies are always fresh. Texture is perfect. So I’ll buy one in a pinch. The chocolates are also very, very good, ” she says.

Anne’s pick: Pâtisserie Tholoniat at 47 rue du Chateau d’Eau (Metro Chateau d’Eau).

“This confiserie has existed for seventy years. It was also my father’s favorite shop, when he was a boy,” says book designer Anne, with a nostalgic sigh.

Pierre’s picks: Le Grenier à Pain at 36 rue des Abbesses (Metro Abbesses)

“I know you asked about pies, but can I tell you where the best Christmas log cakes come from? No? Well, they have wonderful pies, too,” according to photographer Pierre.

And my own personal pick? Coquelicot (the poppy) at 24 rue des Abbesses (Metro: Abbesses). It’s dangerously located just below my apartment windows, so I’m able to smell their signature Piccola baguettes bake as I type. I can tell every time they open the oven door!

Do you have a favorite boulangerie or pâtisserie in Paris? Come on, Cheapos! Let’s rumble!

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Paris Tip: Local aperitifs and the locales to match them https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tip-local-aperitifs-and-the-locales-to-match-them.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tip-local-aperitifs-and-the-locales-to-match-them.html#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:04:44 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=4832 Paris is made up of more than just good wine. And locals here know not to ignore the other French cylindrical dandies of the drink world. Give us your liqueurs, your full-bodied bitters, your anisés and wild gentians! The mind reels with all the other possibilities. Drink specials Here’s a short list of apéritifs—along with » Read more

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Paris is made up of more than just good wine. And locals here know not to ignore the other French cylindrical dandies of the drink world. Give us your liqueurs, your full-bodied bitters, your anisés and wild gentians! The mind reels with all the other possibilities.

Drink specials

Here’s a short list of apéritifs—along with a few daytime touring suggestions to go with your drinks— that’ll help you ease into the evening in harmonious style. So, during “l’heure de apéritif” (the gateway to dinner), you can kick back with a journal or sketchpad avec a cold beverage, and look and feel like a vrai local.

Something old in Montmartre

Local Laurent demonstrates the art of the Picon.

Local Laurent demonstrates the art of the Picon.

Hankering for a taste of the past? Order a Picon. Created by Gaétan Picon in 1837, this bittersweet blend of oranges and deep blue gentian flowers is typically served with a demi-pression (small draft beer), into which you pour the Picon-bière. Aromatic and richly colored, the orange-toffee flavored brew combines with the hops to pack a potent punch. Take caution! “Just one,” smartly advised local film editor Laurent, “otherwise you just might tumble down.”

Everything tastes better in context. So, if you’re in Montmartre, work up your thirst with a stroll by Van Gogh’s old digs at 54 rue Lepic, Picasso’s studio at the Bateau Lavoir (13 Rue Ravignan), or the Chat Noir at 84 Blvd. Rouchechouart (where Erik Satie tickled the ivories). If you still aren’t parched, check out the old zinc bar exhibited at the Musée Montmartre.

Something new (er) in St-Germain

After the 1915 ban on Absinthe, folks had to make do with Pastis, which tastes nearly the same but no longer induces appearances of la Fée Verte (the Green Fairy) as the hallucinogenic muse of artists and poets. Opalescent green in color with a distinctive anise taste, it’s usually mixed with water and ice. For a literary twist, add champagne instead of water for a concoction Ernest Hemingway lovingly called, “death in an afternoon.”

Promenading through St-Germain? Look for the former residence of Julia Child at 81 rue de l’Université (she had her own homemade absinthe recipe!), or the Closerie des Lilas, where a plaque embedded in the bar marks Hemingway’s favorite seat. Visit the Musée d’Orsay. Note those cloudy green glasses in the works of Degas, Lautrec or Van Gogh.

What's your pleasure?

Something borrowed in the Marais

In 1885 Fernand Muraux found a recipe in Switzerland and introduced Suze (named for a Swiss river). Another gentian-based apéritif, this old-fashioned bar favorite is normally served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice. Make a conversation piece of it by challenging your drinking companions to describe its strange and peculiar flavor! Picasso once said, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Check out his 1912 collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze.”

While meandering through the Marais, visit the Musée Picasso or Musée Carnavalet (where you’ll spot Steinlen’s original Chat Noir sign!).

Something blue in Montparnasse

Say “Kir” for a classic (and classy) refresher made of crème de cassis (a blackcurrant liqueur) in white wine. Originally called blanc-cassis, it was named for Canon Félix Kir, the Mayor of Dijon who popularized it when the good red Burgundy was confiscated during the German Occupation. As usual, brewmaster Hemingway made his own version with vermouth, called “Chambéry Cassis.”

Afternoon aperitifs near Picasso's old haunt.

Afternoon aperitifs near Picasso’s old haunt.

Take a break from hobnobbing in Montparnasse with a visit to the Musée Montparnasse. Also hit up Hemingway’s house at 70 bis rue Notre Dame des Champs, or see where Gertrude Stein held court at 27 rue de Fleurus (where Papa was a frequent caller). For real café-culture ambience, try Le Select at 99, Boulevard Montparnasse.

Bon Voyage et Santé, Cheapos!

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