East to west across Crete

But distances say little about driving times in Crete. This is truly one of Europe’s great drives, a feast of serpentines and mountain passes. Along the way there are magnificent views. The terrain is so fearsome that you’d be hard pushed to do the drive in a day. And in truth only the most foolish of travelers would even consider trying to rush the journey. The drive across Crete deserves at least a week.

Christopher Somerville’s book The Golden Step.

The Golden Step

Or you could follow Christopher Somerville’s example and walk across Crete. Chris set off from the east coast of Greece at Easter, taking 50 days for the hike to Panagia Chrisoskalitissa, where he arrived just in time for Pentecost. His experience is recalled in a very fine book entitled The Golden Step: A Walk through the Heart of Greece (first published as a hardback by Haus in 2007 and now available as a paperback). The book’s title alludes to the monastery at the western end of the trail: Panagia Chrisoskalitissa, in English the Monastery of Our Lady of the Golden Step.

“Blessed is the man that walketh,” was the phrase that Christopher Somerville had in mind as he set out from the east coast early on the morning of Easter Monday. He may not have felt quite so blessed as, over the following weeks, he hiked through fierce mountain gorges and over arid plateaus. Yet only slow travelers encounter the rural Crete that Christopher discovered on his walk.

Make time for the trail

Crete is—by virtue of its size—well suited to taking time out, Somerville-style. If you are tempted, do as Christopher Somerville did, and leave every distracting piece of technology at home. No GPS, no smart phone. Take a few maps and don’t forget The Golden Step. It is a pocket-sized gem. And don’t live just for the moment of arrival. Slow travelers take life one step at a time, savoring each moment of the journey. And there is a glint of gold in each footfall on the pilgrim trail across Crete.

The post Discovering Crete: Exploring Greece’s largest island on foot appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Getting to Ærø by ferry

Every island has its own special appeal, and for us Ærø ticks all the right boxes. It is sufficiently far from the mainland and other islands to have a genuine sense of isolation. Yet with three year-round ferry routes connecting Ærø to the rest of Denmark, the island is easy to reach. The journey time on each of those three ferry links is much the same: about 70 to 75 minutes. So long enough to communicate a sense of distance, but no time-consuming voyage.

Island pleasures

That’s the thing about islands. It is all a matter of psychology. When God designed Ærø, he clearly had in mind that the islands’ residents should be forever reminded of their offshore status. For the roads twist and turn, run up and down, but it’s never long before you crest another summit to reveal a gorgeous view of the Baltic. The hilly nature of Ærø means that from higher ground you often catch sea views in every direction at once.

But the hills are not so steep as to defy keen cyclists. The island is small enough to cycle from one end to the other (and back) in a single day. The dense network of minor lanes is tailor-made for walkers. And visitors can hike from one village to another and then ride back in the comfort of the local bus. Bus services on Ærø are all completely free (yes, where did you last see that?).

The island boasts a wonderful medley of colorful houses. Photo: © hidden europe

An island with ideas

Small island communities around Europe’s coast have often been wonderful incubators of innovation. And Ærø even more than most. This is an island with a buzz—a very good buzz. A keen maritime history has ensured that Ærø is outward-looking. It keeps in touch with wider trends. The island has been a leader in alternative energy and is now set to cut a dash in the slow food movement.

For after island adventures and recreation, visitors demand Ærø on a plate. A local champion for real local food on Ærø is Louise Badino (who has far more Ærø blood in her than the Italianate surname might imply). Louise describes herself as a “learning-by-doing” entrepreneur. She already has a niche in the Ærø marriage market but has latterly created the island’s first serious store for local produce. With a plum spot on the main square in the island’s ‘capital’ of Ærøskøbing, Louise’s shop is the obvious first stop for visitors wanting a bite of Ærø. “Buy local,” is Louise’s clarion call as she leads visitors to shelves laden with locally-brewed beer (made at Rise brewery on the island), tempting displays of Ærø mustard and honey, organic herbs and local lamb.

“Can we really say we are a community when most people go shopping at the local supermarket,” Louise asks. It’s a point we might all take on board as we travel. Supermarkets are soulless, impersonal places. If we are to breathe new life into our town squares, we need them to bustle with business, with energy and with enthusiasm.

Making a difference & where to stay

We ran across energy and enthusiasm aplenty in Ærø last week. It was there in the voices and faces of men like Erik Kroman who runs the marvellous maritime museum in Marstal. We saw it in the dedication of Maria and Steen Larsen who in 2006 “came from across the sea” (Maria’s nice way of describing their move from urban Denmark to the island of Ærø) to revive an inn called Vindeballe Kro in a great location in the very middle of the island. While Steen demonstrated the wonderful things that can be done with local Ærø beef, Maria told the tale of how the couple had shaped new lives on the island.

We discovered how Ærø’s own peculiar magic has a way of catching hold of incomers. When Susanna Greve moved to the island in 1974, she could barely have imagined that 40 years later she would still be on Ærø. Susanne now runs an extremely comfortable small hotel (called Pension Vestergade 44) in Ærøskøbing.

Island challenges

It is people like Susanna Greve, Louise Badino and Erik Kromann who are the life and soul of Ærø. And the island relies on dozens more like them. Ærø is exceptional—and very well deserving of a visit. And yet there is a sense in which Ærø is not exceptional. For the story of Ærø is replicated in dozens of island communities around Europe. It is the challenge of having loyalty to community, a sense of being rooted in a particular place and being able thrive locally in a global economy. Ærø just seems to have found particularly good solutions to that trinity of challenges.

The post Portrait of a Danish Island: Ærø appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Despite all of the stereotypes, from an historical perspective, Sweden was not a hotbed for Viking activity. During the Viking Age, the majority of the Swedish population stayed home and farmed. Of course, there were still excursions, many heading east towards Russia instead of west towards what are now Ireland and the United Kingdom.

However, remains of the Viking past can still be found throughout certain areas of Sweden, and a few places just outside of Stockholm make for great day trips.

Birka

One of these is the island town of Birka. A two-hour boat trip leaving from Stockholm’s City Hall (Stadshuset) leaves daily during the summer. The boat trip itself is worth taking, as you wind through Lake Mälaren. Along the way, guides—usually dressed in traditional Viking garments—give a historical look at the Viking Age, the areas surrounding Stockholm, and of course Birka.

The island’s history

Birka, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, tends to be described as the first town to be founded in Sweden, around the mid-800’s. It was short-lived, however, being inhabited for only about 15 to 20 years before the Vikings moved on. That means that no one has been living there for well over a millennium, and that very few visible archeological markers (including houses) exist. This is mostly because Birka’s buildings were made of wood, and wood has a hard time withstanding the harsh Swedish winters for 1,200 years.

Though no historical buildings exist, there is now a small museum as well as several models of Viking-style buildings which are fun to wander though. But it is the Viking burial ground that really stands out. The Vikings created large burial mounds for their dead. On Birka, these mounds can still be seen protruding from the ground throughout the island.

Free tours

Free guided tours are offered, usually given by an off-duty archeologist, and are a great way to learn more about the Viking history, as well as the community on Birka. The tour ends on top of the highest hill. The strategic importance of the island becomes obvious as you look out at Lake Mälaren and its islands.

Because of Sweden’s Right to Public Access law, visitors are allowed to wander all around the island. This provides a wonderful opportunity to picnic. If you do decide to wander, be sure to close all gates behind you. There are sheep on the island, and while some wander free, others are kept in large fields.

Admission and transportation

Adults will pay about 295 SEK for the boat ride to and from Birka. That includes admission to the museum and archeological site. Boats leave twice a day from Stockholm and return twice a day from Birka. Make sure to catch that last boat or you might end up stuck on the island. For more information on the activities on the island during the summer check out the Swedish National Heritage Board Web site.

The post Stockholm Day Trips: Viking history at Birka Island appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Book browsing along the Seine.

Getting there

The Saint-Michel Metro stop will allow for a little bouquiniste browsing as you make your way. Along with a book, pick up a sandwich at a nearby boulangerie or even a compact but oh so filling crêpe fromage! I’m not the first to propose the tip of the Île de la Cité as the perfect spot for a little pic-a-necking, and I certainly won’t be the last.

The bridge: Pont Neuf

Still curvaceous and fabulous at 403-years-old, the “New Bridge” is actually the oldest standing bridge in Paris. Created by Henri IV, it was the first to be built without houses or shops (i.e., “firetraps”) lining it.

As the king of the original urban re-do, Henri also banned timber construction throughout the city, promoted symmetry in its public architecture, connected the Tuileries with the Louvre, and created Paris’s first city square! Thank Henri’s Place des Vosges for getting the party started in the Marais. Even today, this very stylish square is still a prime place to see and be seen.

Henri IV, avec cheval

As you promenade across the bridge, stop and cool your heels in one of its nook-like bastions. Originally these niches were created for the safety of pedestrians seeking to avoid being run over by passing carriages clattering madly by.

Jolly Green Giant: Statue of Henri IV

The bridge cuts across the island connecting the Right and Left Banks of the river. In its very center, you’ll find a huge bronze statue of Henri IV on horseback. Some folks consider the square around it the very center of Western Civilization. I don’t know about that, but I can vouch for it as a great place to make momentous decisions. See, Cheapos, this is where my paramour proposed to me! (I accepted.)

You’ll find the King’s square directly below. Just follow the steps.

Le Square du Vert-Galant

What’s in a name? Le Square du Vert-Galant

For the love of vitality, admiration, and gossip, Parisians gave the little tear-drop-shaped park the flamboyant King’s nickname, “Vert-Galant,” or “Gay Blade,” since he was larger than life, compassionate, and wildly loved. Mad about music, wine and women, Henri would horse around here with his friends, entertainers, and favorite mistress, Gabrielle d’Estrée. As he liked to say, “Great cooking and great wines make a paradise on earth!”

And speaking of big appetites, this is also where Hemingway relaxed with books, wine, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “and often they made excellent catches of the dace-like fish that were called goujon. They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.” For more park ideas, read about our seven favorite parks.

Tip of the Île de la Cité

The tip of the Ile de la Cite

Just beyond the le Square du Vert-Galant, you’ll find the downstream tip of the Île de la Cité. Pick a spot on the stone ledge and then settle yourself down for some smooth bateaux-cruise watching from underneath the weeping willow. I’ve been told that this tree is always the first in Paris to leaf out each spring! Notre-Dame, the Louvre, and the (currently closed) grand magasin Samaritaine pop up like a panoramic all-star photo shoot surrounding you.

Clipping from Hemingway, Cheapos, “There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.”

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Luckily, there are plenty of things to do to keep busy, and some that will really appeal to Cheapos.

Daylight on the island of Djurgården

The city of Stockholm is built on a string of islands, which makes for beautiful sightseeing. Start your day by taking advantage of the daylight and wandering around the island of Djurgården. Walk along Strandvägen on your way to the island or take bus 47 from Central Station and get off at Djurgårdsbron.

The island itself is an amazing blend of nature and history. Several museums dot the island from the famous Vasa Museum, one of the most popular museums in Stockholm, to Waldemarsudde, a beautiful art museum, to Skansen, a living outdoor museum. For Cheapos, however, Djurgården can be enjoyed without spending a dime (or krona, in this case).

Walking around Djurgården, it’s easy to forget you are in the biggest city in Sweden. That might be because as you head east on the island you’ll be staring out towards the edge of the Stockholm archipelago. Or it could be the large National Park that runs through Stockholm and Djurgården.

The area of the National Park on the island is known as “Isbladskärret” and is a beautiful place to see the birds of Sweden, most notably the herons, which can be seen flying home to their nests as the sun sets in the spring.

Off to Kulturhuset

As the sun starts to set, (remember, the days are short during the fall and winter here in Stockholm) start heading back to the city and to Kulturhuset, (The Culture House).

Kulturhuset is located right in front of Sergels torg, the large chessboard-like square. Several bus stops in the area as well as one exit from Central Station make it hard to miss Sergels torg. Coming from Djurgården, you can either walk back along Strandvägen, or take bus 47 and get off at the Sergels torg stop.

Kulturhuset is known for its free exhibitions. Keep in mind that most of the exhibitions are closed on Mondays, and on all other days they don’t open until 11 AM. Closing times vary depending on the day of the week, so be sure to check Kulturhuset’s website if you’re unsure.

Once inside, Kulturhuset has a lot to offer. Each of the five floors has something, most of which are free. You’ll always have access to the Library for Comics and Graphic Literature on the 2nd floor, and the Kidzone on the 4th floor. Revolving photo exhibitions, film festivals, musical performances, and even literature workshops can be found on the other floors throughout the year.

After having explored the natural beauty of Stockholm, as well as the cultural offerings, relax with one of the numerous global newspapers available or befriend a local and finish your day with a game of chess. You’ll have experienced Stockholm, and done so on a budget that any Cheapo would love.

The post Stockholm: Ideas for short winter days and empty wallets appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

NEW YORK—For the first 17 years of my life, my panorama of Cyprus was the inside of my relatives’ homes. We would arrive “apo Ameriki” and immediately begin a whirl of lunches and dinners with different relatives, and there’s a “welcome” round of invitations as well as a “farewell” one.

To an extent this is still the case — this visit, my mom drew up a calendar and listed each day’s invitations (and, afterward, what we ate, and then she and I transcribed the recipes we’d requested for the various dishes because we both love cooking) even though much of the socializing was in restaurants, as our relatives lose interest in spending days in the kitchen and hours washing up.

Now that I’m back in the U.S. I find myself wishing I’d brought home more than photos and recipes. My relatives are such charming, smart, interesting people, and trying to recreate dishes we ate at shared meals just makes me wish they were with me more often.

Besides the food, one other thing in Cyprus is inevitable: political discussions. In Cyprus politics isn’t just background, it’s life.

The Cyprus problem, as it’s called, is that since 1974 the island has been divided between the predominantly Greek-Cypriot Republic and the Turkish and Turkish-Cypriot north after Turkish troops invaded in response to a Greek-Cypriot coup (the Museum of the National Struggle in Nicosia explains some of this in greater detail, but makes no claim to objectivity). The Green Line that marks the partition is still patrolled by United Nations troops.

Since then, diplomacy has failed to truly resolve the situation, and just about every time I visit Cyprus there’s another round of talks between the Greek-Cypriot and Turkish-Cypriot leaders. I don’t notice tension between the two sides in everyday life, but talks always get people emotional and this time was no exception.

Just before the Republic of Cyprus joined the European Union in 2003 the Green Line was made a porous border, where at certain checkpoints you can enter the north. A passport is required, and for this reason many of my relatives refuse to visit — they say they shouldn’t have to show a passport to cross a false border (Turkey’s is the only government to recognize the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus) — but I’ve gone to my dad’s village on a previous trip to Cyprus and found the north sort of like a trip back in time. It was a fascinating look at how the two sides live, and interesting to see where I could have grown up.

But politics is only part of life in Cyprus, where there are beaches to lay on, food to enjoy, art to examine, shopping and nightlife to sample, and strong coffee to power us through all of it. It’s a small country with a big appetite to enjoy life.

Speaking of coffee, when my relative read our fortunes (see photo), she predicted for my mom “a social gathering at a table, which will be a very pleasant and joyous event.” Which is just like every visit to Cyprus, for us — followed that’s how long it takes to fit into my clothes again because, unlike New Yorkers, Cypriots don’t walk. We drive even the shortest distances, and would maneuver our cars through the supermarket aisles like a giant drive-thru if we could.

And then, peering into my mom’s coffee cup, she directed my dad to bring us back every year.

About the author: Alex Christodoulides is one of those push-me-pull-you creatures known as a dual citizen. When not at home in New York City (where she is a freelance writer) or in Cyprus (where she is a freeloader taking advantage of her relatives’ hospitality), she is probably dreaming of a trip to someplace where vaccinations are required and Fodor’s fears to tread.

The post Cyprus Journal: Home again appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Editor’s Note: This week, the blog will be tagging along with fellow Cheapo Alex Christodoulides as she visits family in Cyprus.

NICOSIA, Cyprus—Nicosia has about a dozen churches of various styles and ages scattered through the walled part of the city, ranging from the Byzantine Chrysaliniotissa Church near the Green Line and the Famagusta Gate to the airy 19th-century Phaneromeni Church. Ayios Ioannis cathedral sounds larger than it is and has been through more change than its simple name suggests. Some, like Stavros tou Missirikou Church, have survived so many masters of Cyprus that their outward appearance would seem to indicate an identity crisis.

Chrysaliniotissa Church

Chrysaliniotissa Church keeps a low profile, literally, with its solid, reliable barrel vaults. Although it’s on a street that bears its name, it’s pretty unobtrusive if you arrive there from a back road – no sky-high bell tower makes it easy to spot miles away.

Inside is a respite from the heat and glare, thanks to thick stone walls. The iconostasis here is unusually wide, making for a shallow but broad seating area. Take a look at the Virgin Mary and Christ icons, where worshippers often leave offerings in silver or wax to symbolize requests or thanks for prayers answered.

Ayios Ioannis cathedral

The oft-reinvented Ayios Ioannis sits inside a complex that includes the Archbishopric and the Byzantine Museum and Art Galleries. So small it seems you could stretch your arms and almost touch both walls, the church was built in 1662 on the site of a 14th-century Benedictine chapel dedicated to St. John the Evangelist which subsequently became a Greek Orthodox church honoring St. John the Theologian.

The single-aisle building’s lavishly painted walls and ceiling depict scenes from the Bible and the major saints of the Orthodox Church, with the throng of faces clearing for a huge Pantokrator above the elaborate iconostasis. Shooting photos and video is not allowed inside the church, and a sign at the door says tour groups get five minutes to take it all in, but on quiet days the caretaker will let you take a seat to admire as long as you like.

Stavros tou Missirikou Church

Stavros tou Missirikou Church was built in the 16th century as a medieval Orthodox house of worship, but was converted into a mosque in 1571 when the Ottomans took over the island. The church has some Byzantine, Gothic and Italian Renaissance architectural elements, and a minaret added to one side of the building documents its time as a mosque, which is a lot to cram into a building that seats maybe 30 people. No longer used for ecclesiastical services, the church often houses exhibits.

Phaneromeni Church

Nearby is Phaneromeni Church, the largest in the walled city. Its tall, unadorned white walls seem to direct the worshippers’ gaze to the massive icons near the entrances and the intricately carved, painted and gilded iconostasis.

Phaneromeni Church is another where the faithful have left a collection of wax items hooked on the iconostasis rail to symbolize prayers made or answered. A constant trickle of worshippers drops by to kiss the icons of favorite saints or offer a quick prayer for an urgent request as a benevolent-looking Pantokrator gazes down on them from on high.

About the author: Alex Christodoulides is one of those push-me-pull-you creatures known as a dual citizen. When not at home in New York City (where she is a freelance writer) or in Cyprus (where she is a freeloader taking advantage of her relatives’ hospitality), she is probably dreaming of a trip to someplace where vaccinations are required and Fodor’s fears to tread.

The post Cyprus Journal: Church visits in Nicosia appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.