To get out of Dodge (or Barcelona, in this case) and see the wild side of Catalonia, you might assume a rental car is needed. Not true. The train in Spain does not travel only on the plains, it also heads up into the Pyrenees Mountains passing the timberline and reaching a gorgeous alpine valley. Welcome to the Vall de Nuria.

Vall de Nuria Hotel. Photo: Regina W. Bryan

Exploring Vall De Nuria

In the valley there is a lake, a hotel and countless activities for families including pony rides, boats, playgrounds and plenty of winter sports when the snow falls. Apart from all the kiddie stuff, there are also extensive trails that spread out from the hotel into the Pyrenees. This is a hiker’s paradise.

Hiking the trails

You’ve got two options for getting up to the Vall de Nuria: You can take the zipper train (‘cremallera’) or you can hike a trail from Ribes de Freser or Queralbs. When I went to Nuria, I walked. At the trailhead in Queralbs it read three hours, but it took us four. Of course, we stopped often to take photos and rest. The trail cuts up through a trough leading into the valley and hugs a river, crossing it several times and offering up spectacular waterfall views.

If you choose to do the trek, make sure to have sturdy boots and lunch packed. Also, it’s important to look at the weather before you go as this area is much colder than Barcelona and can be stormy. Trust us, you don’t want to be in Nuria during a thunder and lightening storm.

Hiking the trail up to Vall de Nuria.
Photo: Regina W. Bryan

Though it took us four hours to get up to Nuria, it only took us three hours to return to Queralbs, the village where our car was parked. Still, it’s a smart idea to get an early start if you’re not going to spend the night. We drove to Queralbs, but we could have taken the train to Ribes de Freser from Barcelona, which only takes about 2hr 15min.

Going by zipper train

If you’re not up for the slog, then simply take the train from Barcelona, get off at Ribes de Freser, and then get on the cremallera (zipper train), which will take you all the way up the mountainside, and leave you at the door of the hotel in the valley. Also look for specials on the Valldenuria.com website. For example, they’ve got the ‘Pack Cremallera Dinar Al Restaurant de L’Hotel’ for €35.00, that consists of lunch at the hotel’s restaurant plus a round-trip ticket on the zipper train from Ribes de Fresser.

The hike up to the Vall de Nuria is going to be prettier than taking the zipper train, but in the winter, the zipper train is the only way to access the area (cars are not allowed). If you plan to visit Nuria in a day, then set out as soon as the sun is up, estimating four hours there and four hours back to Barcelona by train (maybe a little less). Trying to do the hike and train travel on the same day is probably overdoing it. If you want to hike, treat yourself and stay the night at the hotel.

The cremallera zipper train that you can catch from Ribes de Freser. Photo: Regina W. Bryan.

The Vall de Nuria is gorgeous and will give you the chance to see another, perhaps unexpected, side of Catalonia and Spain.

To learn more about services in and around the Vall de Nuria, check out the website.

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Dartmoor delights

Dartmoor is England’s most extensive area of upland landscape south of the Pennines. It rises to no great heights, yet the moor communicates a remarkable sense of wilderness — especially on dark nights and foggy days. Arthur Conan Doyle clearly appreciated the haunting power of the moor;  he set one of his most celebrated Sherlock Holmes books on Dartmoor. Be assured, though, that you’ll not run into the Hound of the Baskervilles as you wander across Dartmoor.

Dartmoor is a great granite boss, the details of which have been shaped by millions of years of erosion and weathering. The summits (locally called “tors”) are fantastic jumbles of bare rock, shaped by wind and water. Settlements hunker down in the lee of the hills or take refuge in the valleys.

Exmoor landscapes

Dartmoor belongs wholly to Devon. The county’s other national park, Exmoor, which abuts the Bristol Channel on the north coast, is shared with neighboring Somerset. Here the igneous rocks of Dartmoor are replaced by soft sedimentary rock, giving very different landscapes. There are sandstones and limestones, shales and gritstones. Acidic soils support little by way of agriculture at higher levels.

Towards the north coast, the streams and rivers draining the moor have cut deep valleys that drop down steeply towards the sea. These valleys offer some of Devon’s most distinctive landscapes. The stretch of north Devon coast around Lynton styles itself Little Switzerland (trumping its Alpine cousin in being able to boast a coastline).

Britain’s natural heritage

Dartmoor and Exmoor are two of England’s ten national parks. Devon is one of only four English counties that have, within their territory, all or part of more than one national park. Next year, Exmoor will mark 50 years of national park status. It was designated in 1954. Dartmoor secured the coveted designation slightly earlier. That was in 1951, the year in which the United Kingdom kicked off its national parks program by naming its first four parks.

Looking at those early parks from the 1950s, one has a sense of a program that was designed by men and women who had a fine sense of the relationship between rocks and relief. That ensemble of early parks offers a feast of geomorphology, a symphony of fine landscapes. Like other national parks, Devon’s two examples present fine hiking country. In both parks, open expanses of wild moorland offer every opportunity for reviving city spirits.

Travel writers Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner have penned warm words about Devon three times this month here on EuroCheapo. See their comments on a visit to Exeter cathedral (20 November), and ways to explore Devon by bus, train and boat (27 November).

The post Rocking Out in Devon’s National Parks: Dartmoor and Exmoor appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Lately, I’ve been feeling burned out on the metropolis’ din and have spent most of the summer’s weekends hiking. Many hiking trails in Catalonia require a car but not all. A few, like the Vall de Nuria and Montserrat, are easily reached by train.

The Montserrat Abbey is a big tourist destination outside of Barcelona. Around Plaça Catalunya you’ll see numerous signs offering bus tours to the spiritual site, set about an hour from the city. Going on a bus with a package tour is one way to see the museum, basilica, and monastery, but may not allow time for a hike into the mountains behind the abbey.

Montserrat landscape

You’ll need about five hours to do the Sant Jeroni hike, which leaves from behind the monastery and will take you deep into the Dr. Seuss-like peaks that make Montserrat so unique. The landscape is that of a cartoon, with rounded, bulging rocks around every bend. Sant Jeroni sits at 1,236 meters, which means fabulous, 360° views stretching all the way to Barcelona and Penedès.

Montserrat view

Preparing for the hike

When I did the hike I saw quite a few people marching up the mountainside in flip-flops. I don’t know how they did it. The hike is not easy, and requires a lot of up, up, up during the first 2 kms. Wear hiking boots or at least sneakers. Depending on the time of year, you should also have a jacket as the weather can quite cool at 1,200 meters. There is no water on the trail, so bring a couple water bottles and lunch.

Up on top at Sant Jeroni

If you come to Montserrat Abbey unprepared and want to do the trail, you can buy almost everything you’ll need for the hike at their supermarket. A sort of “religious Disneyland,” Montserrat has two ATM machines, a cafe, two restaurants, several gift shops, a hotel, and a small market on site. It’s a bit touristy, but worth it.

Most visitors do not make it up to Sant Jeroni because it takes time, gear, and physical ability. However, I saw a few families with kids (no younger than seven or eight) doing the trek, so it’s not that hard.

If you plan to see the religious buildings at Montserrat and then hike Sant Jeroni, you’ll need to leave Barcelona early in the morning.

Check out this website for more information about trains from Plaça Espana to Montserrat and its funicular.

Happy Trails!

The post Montserrat: A hike from Barcelona that’s accessible by train appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

This is the common response I receive when telling people about my favorite Swiss destination of Gimmelwald. While not many people have heard of it, it’s more because of its remote location than its lack of offerings. Located in the Bernese Oberland, the tiny mountain village sits at an altitude of 4,500 feet and overlooks the UNESCO world heritage listed Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn.

Leaving the adrenaline-pumping Interlaken, I made my way to this car-free and quiet retreat by taking the cable-car from Stechelberg. Drifting higher and higher into the mountains, the buildings on the ground become like Monopoly pieces as you gently glide into the clouds. And when you step foot into Gimmelwald, it’s like heaven.

Gimmelwald isn’t a place you go for nonstop action, world-class restaurants or bustling attractions. Instead, it’s where you go to experience the quieter side of the Swiss Alps. Cozy timber homes and flower-rimmed guesthouses line the streets, which are actually footpaths since there are no vehicles allowed.

Gimmelwald offers easy access some of Switzerland’s most scenic and challenging hiking trails.

Things To Do

Because the village sits high in the mountains, you get the feeling you can fall off the edge if you stray too far. In reality, wandering beyond the wood buildings will lead you to some of Switzerland’s most scenic and challenging hiking trails. There are also easy hikes for beginners and families looking for something more leisurely than heart-pounding. Once you’re in the forest, you’ll see trail signs pointing in the direction of the nearby villages so you don’t have to worry too much about getting lost.

If you like waterfall hikes, head two hours downhill toward the powerful Trummelbach Falls, noted as Europe’s only subterranean waterfall, which sits at the base of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. There’s also the challenging Gimmelwald to Tanzbodeli hike, a steep 90-minute climb commencing in a bird’s-eye vista of the Swiss Alps. And for something leisurely, opt for the Gimmelwald to Chilchbalm trek. With no notably difficult sections, it’s two hours of caves, wild Alpine flowers, rivers, lush greenery and panoramic mountain and village views.

Say hello to Erica, the "Cheese Lady.”

It’s also worthwhile to visit one of the 13 farms in the village, selling eggs, milk, sausage and cheese. During my visit, my friends and I visited Erica “The Cheese Lady.” She brought us into the small wooden building where she ages her cheese and sausage and let us sample some of the varieties. Because there aren’t many restaurants in Gimmelwald – aside for the ones in the guesthouses – it’s a great opportunity to purchase some fresh local foods for a picnic.

The main thing to take advantage of when in Gimmelwald is the ability to relax. Read a book by the fire, play a game of Jenga with new friends, sip local wine while indulging in some Swiss cheese or chocolate or stare off at the white-capped peaks while breathing in fresh mountain air.

Playing Jenga and drinking wine with new friends at the Mountain Hostel in Gimmelwald.

Where to stay in Gimmelwald

If you’re on a budget, Mountain Hostel is a backpacker favorite and costs about $30 per night. There are single-sex dorms as well as one mixed dorm ranging in size from 6 to 16 beds. While there isn’t any nightlife in the area, this is the closest you’ll come, as travelers share bottles of Swiss wine and cheese and play board games until late hours in the cozy common area. It also doubles as a popular restaurant serving everything from pizza to fondue to homemade lasagna.

Esther’s Guesthouse also offers cozy accommodation in the form of two apartments and seven rooms with one to four beds. Each morning an expansive homemade breakfast as well as the chance to socialize is offered for $16, and there’s a community kitchen if you want to buy groceries from nearby Murren for cooking. In the summer, you can barbecue in the garden. Rates start at $59 per night, although you receive an $11 discount when paying in cash for three nights or more.

For those who want something rustic and romantic with breathtaking views from their room, Hotel Mittaghorn provides just that. Hosts Walter and Tim provide a welcoming ambiance, with Tim giving great advice on hikes and Walter whipping up delicious homecooked meals each night with dessert and wine accompaniments, all for $16. There is also a free breakfast of hearty breads, jams, cheese and coffee included in the $90 per night room rate.

Your visit to Gimmelwald

Have you visited Gimmelwald? Tell us about your experience in the tiny village in our comments section below.

Also in our guide: Visiting Switzerland can be hazardous to a Cheapo’s budget. If you’re planning your Swiss trip, swing by our guides to budget hotels in Geneva and Zurich. Yes, Cheapos, it is possible to enjoy this famously pricey country on a budget.

The post Gimmelwald, Switzerland: A visit to the tiny mountain village appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Before the days get too short and while leaves are still on the trees, here are a few of my favorite lookout points in Dublin. Some are for relaxing picnics while others will require a little energy to get there.

1. The Sugar Loaf Mountain
Web site

One of the best views in all of Dublin is found from the peak of the Great Sugar Loaf Mountain. Located about 30 minutes south of city center, this peak is accessible only from a trail off a narrow country road. En route to the top, you will pass ancient stone fences and grazing sheep.

While the climb might look daunting, it’s really more of a hike on an incline than a climb. It is possible to reach the top in an hour or hour and a half, with only a few tricky steps towards the top when you must scramble over a few rocks. Once you pass this test, views are the reward.

The whole geography of Dublin unfolds in front of you. The Bay of Dublin, the piers jetting out into the water (where you can go for a swim if you dare) and the surrounding signature green countryside are all clearly visible from this vantage point.

Bring a picnic with you and stay for a while to take in the views.

2. Bewley’s Grafton Street Café
78/79 Grafton Street
Web site

Grafton Street is the pedestrianized center of Dublin. Very often visitors walk up or down this street en route to some attraction or another throughout the city. Yet how many stop to enjoy the view? Beyond shopping, Grafton Street is known for street performers, or buskers (Rodrigo y Gabriela got their start here).

One of the best places to take in the bustle is on the second floor of Bewley’s Café on Grafton Street. Get a table overlooking the street. The windows will be open on a nice day and while sipping on a cup of tea you can watch the daily theater of Grafton Street unfold beneath you.

3. Hike from Bray to Greystones
Web site

Some of the best coastal views in Dublin can be seen on a hike between the villages of Bray and Greystones. From the city center, hop a commuter DART train heading south to Bray. From the station, wander down towards the beach, and join the trail that winds south along the coastline.

Over the course of a 90-minute hike, you will have the chance to see not only coastal views from every possible angle, but also the DART train barreling through tunnels. Finish with a stroll through a grassy field as you approach Greystones. There are several places to picnic along the route before boarding the train in Greystones to head back north to Dublin.

Your views?

From the center of Dublin to the top of a mountain, this city is full of places with incredible views. If you’re looking for a place with a view to sip on a pint of Guinness, check out my recommendations for scenic summertime bars.

Have a favorite lookout point not listed here? Tell us about it in our comments section.

The post Dublin: The best lookout points around Dublin appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Which is why Umbria–the central Italian region famed for its undulating landscape, historic hilltowns, and rustic cuisine—is the place to be for anyone wanting to visit the Bel Paese without having to compromise on the creme della creme. Here are several ways guaranteed to keep your costs low while visiting Umbria:

Art and Architecture
Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi

Umbria hasn’t yet jumped on the “charging admission for churches” bandwagon—unlike Florence and Venice—so the region’s most iconic architectural monument (and one of the most important fresco cycles in the history of art) is still free.

The imposing 13th-century Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi is a breathtaking example of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture and home to works by Cimabue and, most famously, Giotto. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000 and one of the most visited monuments in Italy, the Basilica is best enjoyed in the relative peace of the early morning or late afternoon, when day trippers and busloads of pilgrims aren’t crowding the chapels.

For opening hours and events, visit http://www.sanfrancescoassisi.org/.

Music and General Merry-Making
Umbria Jazz Festival (July)

Umbria hosts over 20 music festivals each year–an astonishing number given this region’s tiny size and population—and Umbria Jazz is the uncontested king. Held each July in Perugia, this juggernaut of an international event stretches over two weeks and attracts some of the biggest names in jazz (and beyond—I’ve seen R.E.M., Alicia Keys, and Eric Clapton here, as well).

Sure, the headlining concerts may be out of your travel budget, but take a stroll down Perugia’s main Corso to enjoy the irresistable festive vibe and pop in at one of the many free outdoor concerts in the piazze downtown. For a complete schedule: http://www.umbriajazz.com/

History and Culture
Mercato delle Gaite (Bevagna, late June)

There is nothing like an Umbrian town during its annual festival when banners flutter under each window, taverne (temporary outdoor eating areas) sprout overnight in the squares, and street musicians, costumed processions, medieval markets, and crossbow tournaments are center stage.

Almost every town has its own historic festival and a perennial favorite is Bevagna’s Mercato delle Gaite held in late June. Each town district–or gaite—accurately reconstructs functioning artisan workshops using both the techniques and technology of the 1300s to produce items that include silk (from silkworm to cloth), paper, bronze bells, beeswax candles, and religious icons. For a program, see http://www.ilmercatodellegaite.it/ (a €6 ticket buys you a visit the ten workshops)

Wine (and, if you’re lucky, Food)
“Open Cellars” (May)

One of the most anticipated days of the year is the last Sunday in May when wineries across Umbria open their doors to the public for Cantine Aperte (Open Cellars).

Participating vineyards—there were more than 50 this year–organize wine tastings, cellar tours, vineyard walks, live music, and (in some cases) food. At the entrance to the vineyard, each visitor purchases a souvenir glass in a pouch (which you hang from your neck to keep your hands free for the buffet!) for €5, which is good for filling at any participating vineyard all day.

Each winery has its own procedure, but generally their house wines are free (in your official glass), their higher-end wines may be available for tasting for a small charge, and food can be either free or available for a small fee. You can find a list of participating vineyards here.

Nature and the Great Outdoors
Sibilline National Park

There’s a reason Umbria is known as Italy’s “green heart”, and not just because it’s a catchy hook. This region is dotted with natural parks and reserves and offers some dramatic hikes.

One of my favorites is the trail up Mount Vettore in the Sibilline National Park. Climbing from the Piano Grande plateau near the tiny hamlet of Castelluccio, the path leads to Lago di Pilato (Pilate’s Lake) famed for its tiny prehistoric crustacean, and for the legend that Pontius Pilates bones lay in its depths.

Fact or fiction? You can take your time to mull it over while you picnic near its shores, soak in the view, and rest up for the hike back down to the plain–all this for the price of the CAI Monte Sibillini trail map. For more information about this National Park, check out their Web site.

About the author: Rebecca Winke moved to Italy from Chicago in 1993 and shortly thereafter opened an agriturismo in her husband’s renovated family farmhouse at the foot of Mount Subasio near Assisi, Umbria. She spends her time taking care of guests at Brigolante, blogging about the lovely region she now calls home at Rebecca’s Ruminations, and wondering about what strange winds blew an urban vegetarian to a farm in Umbria.

The post Umbria: 5 ways to explore Umbria à la cheapo appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

“Easily the best atlas there is.”

The best investment we ever made was in a handsome atlas, but it’s clearly something for the home library rather than to carry on a journey. We have dipped and delved into many atlases over the years, but the clear winner in our book is The Times Comprehensive Atlas of the World, which travel writer Paul Theroux nicely commended as “the whole world in a single volume,” and Bill Bryson dubbed “easily the best atlas there is.”

Britain and France

Various national mapping agencies in Europe produce first-class maps showing roads, railways, landscape features and more–generally only for their own territories.

Top of the range is the classy cartography of Ordnance Survey (OS), once Britain’s military mapping agency which has transformed itself over the last 30 years into a customer-oriented company serving business and leisure markets. If we had any say in these matters, we would long ago have extended the OS remit to cover the planet, but that’s just a dream so we can only imagine how wonderful an OS Landranger map of the Camargue or the Crimea would be.

France is blessed with great national map coverage at various scales, with IGN and Michelin locked in head-to-head competition. Our preference is for IGN (really the only option if you are looking for large scale maps suitable for hikers), but Michelin offers elegant medium and small scale maps for long road trips.

Reise-Know-How

We are very impressed with many of the mid- and small-scale maps of Freytag & Berndt, a long established company in Austria which has produced maps of most areas of the world. That company’s 1:150,000 road atlas of Croatia and Slovenia is a gem that has served us well over many years.

For sheer quality of cartography, though, the maps of Reise-Know-How are hard to beat, and they come sensibly printed on waterproof tear-resistant paper. This German company specializes in areas overlooked by mainstream mapping agencies, and we have found their maps of lesser known parts of Europe to be a real godsend. As dedicated rail travelers, we much like the fact that Reise-Know-How maps give some prominence to railway lines (which too often on other maps play second fiddle to roads).

Rail Maps

Of course, if you are traveling by train around Europe, it pays to get a dedicated rail map. Pick of the bunch is the Thomas Cook Rail Map of Europe. The 18th edition of this old favorite is published next week. Europe’s rail network is so fluid, with new routes opening and closing every year, that it is really worth having an up-to-date edition.

A new edition of the same company’s Rail Map of Britain and Ireland is also published on 3 February. Publication dates for both maps in the US market are about a month later.

The post hidden europe: Our favorite European map makers appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

If you need a break from the hustle and bustle of Madrid, you’re in luck. Spain’s capital is flanked by mountain ranges including the Sierra de Guadarrama, Sierra del Norte and the Sierra de Gredos, all of which offer city dwellers some well-needed respite from the urban grind.

Day tripping to the mountains

My six-hour hike.

Most trips to Madrid’s mountains are easily doable in a day and are highly enjoyable in any season. Why not go skiing during the winter, savor the crisp mountain air in fall, admire the flora and fauna in spring, or escape the heat of the city at a natural mountain swimming pool in summer?

For the walkers among us there are many different routes for all levels. The most experienced hikers and climbers will be challenged, while those wanting a gentle walk through beautiful surroundings and some wholesome rural food will also be happy.

Do-it-yourself mountain trips

Most Madrileños seem to have an innate knowledge of the different mountain ranges and often disappear off for the weekend to the Sierra. However, for foreigners it can seem like a mysterious world outside the city that is completely inaccessible without a car.

Wrong. Tourists, too can explore la Sierra! Cercedilla, Cotos and Manzanares El Real are all easily reached either by train from Atocha station or by bus from Plaza Castilla. A round-trip ticket costs less than €10.

Ah, nature...

Mountain trips with a group

Alternatively, if you want to reach lesser-known parts of the Sierra you can go with a group led by experienced hikers.

I decided to give this a go and booked with specialist tour company Tierra de Fuego. For just €18 I opted for the beginners level (there are three levels to choose from) and took a six-hour walk through the Dehesa de Somosierra and Horcajo de la Sierra.

I joined my group on a coach in Plaza España and we traveled for about an hour before starting the walk. The group was predominantly Spanish and ages ranged from 20-65, including groups of friends, couples and individuals, all in search of some fresh mountain air.

It was one of those beautiful crisp, blue autumnal days and we were treated to some stunning scenery–vast expanses punctuated by craggy mountains, majestic auburn pine forests and beautifully preserved little villages. As we sat at the highest vantage point eating our packed lunches and gazing out at the view, I couldn’t believe it was possible to find such peace and tranquility just a stone’s throw from Madrid.

However you decide to go, Madrid’s mountains are a very affordable way of taking a mini break and should certainly rank high on any Cheapo’s “to-do” list.

The post Madrid Day Trip: Exploring the Sierra mountain ranges appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Greve in Chianti, today’s featured destination, is situated about 45 minutes from Florence. It is a recent member of the Chianti family since the wine district was officially enlarged in 1932 and is the region’s biggest town. Be sure to visit the town’s main piazza, abundant with restaurants, souvenir shops and of course, plenty of wine. The town also sprouts several walking trails that twist their way through modern-day villas, medieval ruins and spaces of wooded wonderment. Oh yeah, and there are vineyards around too.

How to Get There

First, find the bus. The SITA bus is situated just a few steps from Florence’s train station and will be your chariot for the day (there is no train service to Greve). Buses are frequent and cheap—tickets can be purchased directly from the bus station for under €3. The bus schedule can be downloaded here.

Upon Arriving

I highly recommend visiting Greve in Chianti’s tourist office upon your arrival to get your hands on wine-tasting and walking trail info. The office is located at Via Giovanni da Verrazzano 59 and is open from March to October from 9:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Yours truly recommends the hikes to Passo dei Pecorai (three hours) or Panzano (two hours) which although classified as intermediate are actually quite easy to do. Be sure to also charge your camera before the hike (insert excerpts from awkward argument with partner about dead camera while in the midst of romantic gaiety here) since the scenery is really worthy of Kodak rapidfire. Also, do bring some sort of hiking footwear or post-seventies-era running shoes since there are gravel descents that will require sure footing.

Did you Know?

Mona Lisa, the woman made eternally famous by Leonardo Da Vinci’s masterpiece, is said to have been born in the nearby Vignamaggio Villa just outside of Greve in Chianti.

The post Florence Day Trip: Wine and hiking in Greve in Chianti appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Start in Kotor’s old town and meander through the narrow streets, soaking up the Mediterranean ambiance. There’s a reasonably-priced mini-market in Kotor’s old town where Cheapos can stock up on water and eats for the task ahead. When you’re properly geared up, head towards the entrance sign. Visitors cough up €1 for admission.

Even if you’re in tip-top shape, you’ll want to stop for breaks to catch views of the bay and surrounding mountains from various vantage points. The vertical climb on the cliff is about 4.5 km, and places hikers almost directly above the old town. There’s no need to rush through your climb. Along the way, listen for the clank of bells—mountain goat bells, that is. Herds of mountain goats graze along the path and peacefully share their mountain with you.

When you reach the ruins of the fortress at the top, bask in your achievement with a queen/king-of-the-mountain photo framed by the Montenegrin flag and sweeping views of the Boka Kotorska behind you.

Tip: Cheapos should head to Kotor before high season (June to August) begins. Outside of high season, crowds are few and admittance is free.

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