hemingway – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Best Paris movies, books and music of 2011 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-best-paris-movies-books-and-music-of-2011.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-best-paris-movies-books-and-music-of-2011.html#respond Mon, 26 Dec 2011 14:26:30 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=21436 By Theadora Brack in Paris— According to my movie producer pal, George, the world boils down to two basic categories: the best and the worst. Anything in between isn’t worth talking about. Mediocrity is a crime, he often quips. As you can well imagine, his dinner parties in Paris are always quite lively, dramatic and » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

According to my movie producer pal, George, the world boils down to two basic categories: the best and the worst. Anything in between isn’t worth talking about. Mediocrity is a crime, he often quips. As you can well imagine, his dinner parties in Paris are always quite lively, dramatic and informative.

So as a nod to my opinionated crony, I’ve decided to round out 2011 with a list of my favorite Paris-related music, movies and books. By George, this one is for you, Cheapos.

Without further adieu, here’s my Ab Fab, crème de la crème raves. Envelope, please!

Best Music Video
“Someone Like You” by Adele

Adele pont-ificates on Pont Alexandre III. Click to watch the video.

Shot in black and white by director Jake Nava, Adele’s “Someone Like You” video is an epic weepie. Both Adele and the Pont Alexandre III have never looked more gorgeous. Try watching this moody-bluesy breakup song without crying, singing along, and then hitting repeat. I’ve tried but no can do. In the video, your eye will spy the Eiffel Tower, the Grand Palais, Les Invalides and the Place de la Concorde.

Tip: Admire Adele’s trench coat in black with its sassy asymmetrical zipper? I do, too. The military-inspired garb was created for Moschino’s 2010 runway collection. Bittersweet, they’re no longer available. So what to do? In Montmartre, the Sympa bargain bin shops are now pushing funky trench coats for just €5. Rebounding just got easier (and cheaper!).

Charlie Winston dans le Metro. Click to watch the video.

Bonus tracks: I also enjoyed charming Charlie Winston’s terribly infectious “Like a Hobo” video, shot in the Abbesses Métro station. Hello, Charlie, goodbye heart!

Best Song
“I’m Throwing My Arms Around Paris” by Morrissey

Moving on to a more upbeat breakup song (at least musically!), “I’m Throwing My Arms Around Paris” caught my ear earlier this year around St. Valentine’s Day. Penned by Morrissey and Boz Boorer, how did I miss this catchy tune when it was released back in 2009? Your bet is as good as mine. An ode to Oscar Wilde, it has not left my playlist, and probably never will. Yes, I’ve made myself plain. I’ve made myself very plain.

The Importance of Cleaning Earnest: Wilde’s grave is closed for repairs.

Tip: And speaking of dashing Wilde, his grave at Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is temporarily indisposed. Shrouded in blue plastic, the memorial sculpture is undergoing a scrubbing because through the years, incurable romantics have gone wild romancing the stone with lipstick prints, and their chemicals have started to take a toll. Work will take place until spring 2012.

Still, there’s plenty to see here inside the cemetery gates. Visit Chopin, Modigliani and Proust, along with crooners like Edith Piaf and Jim Morrison.

Best Movie
“Midnight in Paris”

Yes, Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris” film was a tad hokey pokey in places, but I fell gladly for it. But that’s how I roll down the cobblestones in Paris, in my new bobbed hairdo, inspired by Marion Cotillard’s flapper character in the flick. Fantasizing about time travel now makes my heart swell. Larger than life, Yves Heck as Cole Porter was simply divine. Why, why do I love Paris? (Because it sizzles anytime of the year.)

Take a spin on the Musee des Arts Forains bicycle carousel.

Bonus tracks: This year, I also enjoyed PBS’s “The Luminous Years” documentary and Nora Ephron’s “Julie and Julia” film from 2010. Both are worth a checkout.

Top Tip: You, too, can ride the amazing bicycle carousel featured in “Midnight in Paris.” Just reserve a tour of the Musée des Arts Forains (the museum of carnival art) by emailing: diane@pavillons-de-bercy.com. The entire museum is one of the most amazing, unsung sites in Paris.

This magical place is located near the Les Pavillons de Bercy at 53 avenue des Terroirs de France (12th arrondissement). Unlike most museums, they allow visitors to play with the items on display. No white gloves needed! If you plan to visit Paris in 2012, don’t miss it. Holy, moly—it’s bucket list-worthy.

Best Books

I have more than a slew of them up my sleeve. As one of the Paris Correspondents at EuroCheapo, I’m always on the hunt for research books about France. Here are my favorite reads from the year. Some are old and some are new. All were fabulous and of great, great use.

“A Moveable Feast: The Restored Edition,” by Ernest Hemingway, Sean Hemingway and Patrick Hemingway (2010)

“Paris Without End: The True Story of Hemingway’s First Wife,” by Gioia Diliberto (2011)

“Paris: The Secret History,” by Andrew Hussey (2008)

“Paris: Journey into the City of Light,” by David Downie and Diane Johnson (2011)

“The Greater Journey: American in Paris,” by David G. McCullough (2011)

“Memoirs of the Court of Marie Antoinette, Queen of France, Complete,” Historic Memoirs of Madam Campan (2010)

“What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution,” by Caroline Weber (2007)

Your movie, book and music picks?

Cheapos, do you have any music, film or book recommendations? Do share! Leave your recommendations in the comments box below. Happy Holidays!

Also in our guide: Heading to Paris anytime soon? Our editors have hunted down the city’s best affordable hotels, all centrally located and clean. We visit, inspect, photograph and choose the best. Read our reviews in our Paris guide. Bon voyage!

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Paris Place: Le Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of the Ile de la Cité https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-place-le-square-du-vert-galant-at-the-tip-of-the-ile-de-la-cit.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-place-le-square-du-vert-galant-at-the-tip-of-the-ile-de-la-cit.html#comments Mon, 10 May 2010 15:11:25 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=9796 Spring has finally sprung in Paris, so with arms tangled and hair highly mussed, let’s stroll like real Parisians to my favorite centuries-old romantic hot spot, le Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of the Île de la Cité. Created by passionate King Henri IV, its spectacular view of la Seine and currents crashing into its » Read more

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Spring has finally sprung in Paris, so with arms tangled and hair highly mussed, let’s stroll like real Parisians to my favorite centuries-old romantic hot spot, le Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of the Île de la Cité. Created by passionate King Henri IV, its spectacular view of la Seine and currents crashing into its banks still move the rendezvous-ers, so hold on tight while I straighten your trench coat collar.

Book browsing along the Seine.

Getting there

The Saint-Michel Metro stop will allow for a little bouquiniste browsing as you make your way. Along with a book, pick up a sandwich at a nearby boulangerie or even a compact but oh so filling crêpe fromage! I’m not the first to propose the tip of the Île de la Cité as the perfect spot for a little pic-a-necking, and I certainly won’t be the last.

The bridge: Pont Neuf

Still curvaceous and fabulous at 403-years-old, the “New Bridge” is actually the oldest standing bridge in Paris. Created by Henri IV, it was the first to be built without houses or shops (i.e., “firetraps”) lining it.

As the king of the original urban re-do, Henri also banned timber construction throughout the city, promoted symmetry in its public architecture, connected the Tuileries with the Louvre, and created Paris’s first city square! Thank Henri’s Place des Vosges for getting the party started in the Marais. Even today, this very stylish square is still a prime place to see and be seen.

Henri IV, avec cheval

As you promenade across the bridge, stop and cool your heels in one of its nook-like bastions. Originally these niches were created for the safety of pedestrians seeking to avoid being run over by passing carriages clattering madly by.

Jolly Green Giant: Statue of Henri IV

The bridge cuts across the island connecting the Right and Left Banks of the river. In its very center, you’ll find a huge bronze statue of Henri IV on horseback. Some folks consider the square around it the very center of Western Civilization. I don’t know about that, but I can vouch for it as a great place to make momentous decisions. See, Cheapos, this is where my paramour proposed to me! (I accepted.)

You’ll find the King’s square directly below. Just follow the steps.

Le Square du Vert-Galant

What’s in a name? Le Square du Vert-Galant

For the love of vitality, admiration, and gossip, Parisians gave the little tear-drop-shaped park the flamboyant King’s nickname, “Vert-Galant,” or “Gay Blade,” since he was larger than life, compassionate, and wildly loved. Mad about music, wine and women, Henri would horse around here with his friends, entertainers, and favorite mistress, Gabrielle d’Estrée. As he liked to say, “Great cooking and great wines make a paradise on earth!”

And speaking of big appetites, this is also where Hemingway relaxed with books, wine, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “and often they made excellent catches of the dace-like fish that were called goujon. They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.” For more park ideas, read about our seven favorite parks.

Tip of the Île de la Cité

The tip of the Ile de la Cite

Just beyond the le Square du Vert-Galant, you’ll find the downstream tip of the Île de la Cité. Pick a spot on the stone ledge and then settle yourself down for some smooth bateaux-cruise watching from underneath the weeping willow. I’ve been told that this tree is always the first in Paris to leaf out each spring! Notre-Dame, the Louvre, and the (currently closed) grand magasin Samaritaine pop up like a panoramic all-star photo shoot surrounding you.

Clipping from Hemingway, Cheapos, “There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.”

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Paris Tip: Local aperitifs and the locales to match them https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tip-local-aperitifs-and-the-locales-to-match-them.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tip-local-aperitifs-and-the-locales-to-match-them.html#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:04:44 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=4832 Paris is made up of more than just good wine. And locals here know not to ignore the other French cylindrical dandies of the drink world. Give us your liqueurs, your full-bodied bitters, your anisés and wild gentians! The mind reels with all the other possibilities. Drink specials Here’s a short list of apéritifs—along with » Read more

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Paris is made up of more than just good wine. And locals here know not to ignore the other French cylindrical dandies of the drink world. Give us your liqueurs, your full-bodied bitters, your anisés and wild gentians! The mind reels with all the other possibilities.

Drink specials

Here’s a short list of apéritifs—along with a few daytime touring suggestions to go with your drinks— that’ll help you ease into the evening in harmonious style. So, during “l’heure de apéritif” (the gateway to dinner), you can kick back with a journal or sketchpad avec a cold beverage, and look and feel like a vrai local.

Something old in Montmartre

Local Laurent demonstrates the art of the Picon.

Local Laurent demonstrates the art of the Picon.

Hankering for a taste of the past? Order a Picon. Created by Gaétan Picon in 1837, this bittersweet blend of oranges and deep blue gentian flowers is typically served with a demi-pression (small draft beer), into which you pour the Picon-bière. Aromatic and richly colored, the orange-toffee flavored brew combines with the hops to pack a potent punch. Take caution! “Just one,” smartly advised local film editor Laurent, “otherwise you just might tumble down.”

Everything tastes better in context. So, if you’re in Montmartre, work up your thirst with a stroll by Van Gogh’s old digs at 54 rue Lepic, Picasso’s studio at the Bateau Lavoir (13 Rue Ravignan), or the Chat Noir at 84 Blvd. Rouchechouart (where Erik Satie tickled the ivories). If you still aren’t parched, check out the old zinc bar exhibited at the Musée Montmartre.

Something new (er) in St-Germain

After the 1915 ban on Absinthe, folks had to make do with Pastis, which tastes nearly the same but no longer induces appearances of la Fée Verte (the Green Fairy) as the hallucinogenic muse of artists and poets. Opalescent green in color with a distinctive anise taste, it’s usually mixed with water and ice. For a literary twist, add champagne instead of water for a concoction Ernest Hemingway lovingly called, “death in an afternoon.”

Promenading through St-Germain? Look for the former residence of Julia Child at 81 rue de l’Université (she had her own homemade absinthe recipe!), or the Closerie des Lilas, where a plaque embedded in the bar marks Hemingway’s favorite seat. Visit the Musée d’Orsay. Note those cloudy green glasses in the works of Degas, Lautrec or Van Gogh.

What's your pleasure?

Something borrowed in the Marais

In 1885 Fernand Muraux found a recipe in Switzerland and introduced Suze (named for a Swiss river). Another gentian-based apéritif, this old-fashioned bar favorite is normally served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice. Make a conversation piece of it by challenging your drinking companions to describe its strange and peculiar flavor! Picasso once said, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Check out his 1912 collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze.”

While meandering through the Marais, visit the Musée Picasso or Musée Carnavalet (where you’ll spot Steinlen’s original Chat Noir sign!).

Something blue in Montparnasse

Say “Kir” for a classic (and classy) refresher made of crème de cassis (a blackcurrant liqueur) in white wine. Originally called blanc-cassis, it was named for Canon Félix Kir, the Mayor of Dijon who popularized it when the good red Burgundy was confiscated during the German Occupation. As usual, brewmaster Hemingway made his own version with vermouth, called “Chambéry Cassis.”

Afternoon aperitifs near Picasso's old haunt.

Afternoon aperitifs near Picasso’s old haunt.

Take a break from hobnobbing in Montparnasse with a visit to the Musée Montparnasse. Also hit up Hemingway’s house at 70 bis rue Notre Dame des Champs, or see where Gertrude Stein held court at 27 rue de Fleurus (where Papa was a frequent caller). For real café-culture ambience, try Le Select at 99, Boulevard Montparnasse.

Bon Voyage et Santé, Cheapos!

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