Big wheels do keep on turning in Paris! Like skirts, cheese is seasonal, and in France the variety is never-ending. So this week I’m taking it to les rues, and asking my favorite local Big Cheeses for recommendations and helpful tips, too.

Here’s a shopping list to use as a starting point. For the love of la bonne vie, Cheapos, just smile and say “cheese!” (Not to get your goat, this go-’round we’re only milking the cows!)

Something old: Saint-Nectaire

Cat enjoying the cheese aisle

The Maréchal de Sennecterre introduced Saint-Nectaire (get it?), a superstar from near Clermont-Ferrand in Auvergne. Boasting an earthy aroma acquired while curing on straw for eight weeks, the thick, gooey Saint-Nectaire has long had its share of fans. Louis XIV gave this taste sensation his Good Palace-Keeping seal of approval!

My musician friend (and Charlotte Gainsbourg look-alike) Cat is mad about it. “It’s from where I grew up. The cheese is not industrial. Outside, the crust is grey, but inside it’s creamy, nutty, and fruity. Délicieusement fondant, baby! When I eat it I think of home and my parents.”

Keep your eyes peeled for its cousin Pavin, too, dressed in a bright orange rind. Named for Lac Pavin, its strong mushroom flavor will send your taste buds over the moon.

Something new: Saint-Félicien

Arriving on the French fromage scene around 1950, Saint-Félicien is similar to its older cousin Saint-Marcellin. “Saint Félicien’s taste is creamier and softer,” points out clothing designer Ghislaine. “Both are from the Rhône-Alpes, and very smelly! The smellier, the better, I think! Also, it comes in little crocks, which many people use afterwards to serve nuts and olives. You can always know when your friends like this cheese if you see them using those crocks!”

Ghislaine offers a shopping tip. “ The thing is to eat them at the right moment. If you eat them too early, they don’t have the authentic strong taste, but if you wait too long they taste like ammoniac. So ask for help. Let the fromager know exactly when you plan to eat it, and they’ll be able to figure out the ripeness with their fingertips.”

Laurent and Comté

Something borrowed: Soumaintrain

Film editor Laurent discovered Soumaintrain while completing a documentary about the late, great French New Wave filmmaker, Claude Chabrol. “The film story took place in an old house, where some friends of his came to visit him to enjoy a really good lunch, and he served them Soumaintrain.” After days spent editing this mouthwatering scene, Laurent had no choice but to set out on a quest to find it on his own.

“It’s from Bourgogne. It’s creamy and smelly. You can find its cousin Époisses at many cheese sellers, but only a few of them sell Soumaintrain. It’s very difficult to locate because the producers don’t always identify themselves. It’s almost like a secret society. Soumaintrain has a stronger taste and even more pungent smell than Époisses. You definitely have to drink a red wine and eat it with bread—a Burgundy, or a good Bourgueil from the Loire Valley.”

Something blue

How much are those cheeses in the window?

Film editor Yohan and media analyst Stéphanie are self-proclaimed “cheese snobs” and proud of it. “We like Comté, Vacherin Mont d’Or, and Morbier Fermier. They’re all from Yohan’s hometown, Besançon,” said Stéphanie. “We shop at Chez Virginie Fromagerie at 54 rue Damrémont in the 18th arrondissement. She’s a third-generation cheese monger. If you need help, just ask questions. They’re very friendly.”

Speaking of blue, Morbier Fermier is easily identifiable in display cases by the horizontal line of bluish ash cutting through it like a layer of icing in the middle of a cake. This dates back to when farmers would half-fill their cheese molds after the evening milking and then scatter a little ash on the curds to keep nighttime bugs away. In the morning they’d milk the cows again and top up the molds. Amaze your friends with this tall cow tale (but it’s true!).

My guilty pleasure: Cantal

Flummoxed by all these choices? Then I recommend starting off with a satisfyingly buttery number that’s everywhere in Paris but difficult to find outside of France: the “Cantal jeune.” Named for a region filled with volcanic peaks, even the Sun King was a fan!

Also worth a nibble are the rugged (and rarely exported) six-month-old Cantal vieux and its cousin, Salers. Take any one of the varieties and ménage à trois it with a baguette and a bottle of wine, and you’ve got the perfect Cheapo meal—morning, noon and night. Ooh, la la!

Cheapos, got your own favorite fromage? Do spill!

The post Paris: Locals Pick Their Favorite Cheeses appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Breakfast — the Dutch way

Dutch breakfast. Photo: Jula Lulz

The usual Dutch breakfast is made at home and consists of whole grain bread, Dutch farm cheese, a small coffee and freshly-squeezed orange juice. It’s quick, easy and often repeated for lunch.

Working types in a rush to catch a train are usually found in line at the nearest Albert Heijn grocery or “in-n-out” market. These smarty-pants supermarkets have the basics to go, from freshly-squeezed fruit smoothies (€2) to coffee machines (€1.50) and baked goods such as croissants and appleflaps (€1 to €2).

Other grab-and-go options are Bakkerij Bart and the usual train station bakeries.

Bagels are back

Those hole-in-the-middle circles of perfection were bound to catch on somewhere in Europe, and Amsterdam welcomed the classic bagel and cream cheese combo with open arms. Shops like Bagels & Beans, Gary’s Deli and Tony’s NYC Bagels offer various bagels and spreads with classic Dutch sides like fresh juices and mint tea.

The difference lies in the service. Most bagel places in Amsterdam have a sit-down style, which can be a bit confusing to North Americans. Still, it’s a fair option, and it’s the kind of place that encourages patrons to take their time.

Ponder on pancakes

In the end, the safest bet for a classic Dutch-style sit down breakfast is a pancake café. Unlike the classic flapjack, Dutch pancakes are thin like crepes but lay flat with an array of sweet or salty toppings.

Be sure to branch out and try different flavors; the menu will have lots to offer. A pancake with apples and syrup or cinnamon sugar is one thing, but try the shoarma pancake or the Greek salad pancake if you dare.

As a bonus, no matter where a pancake restaurant is located, the concept and the  décor will be as unique as possible. For example, the Pancake Boat (Pannenkoekenboot), pictured above, is actually a pancake restaurant on a boat that cruises around the city a few times daily. The Jordaan’s brick-walled Pancake Bakery is nestled in a cozy pocket along the Prinzengracht, and the Carousel Pancake House is actually designed like a carousel.

If the saying “you are what you eat” were to show any hint of being a farce, it would in the Netherlands, as the tall and lean Dutch provide a strong contrast to round pancakes and bagels. Nevertheless, when in Amsterdam sink your teeth into a Dutch breakfast and enjoy both a traveler’s and local’s most important meal of the day.

The post Amsterdam: Where to have a traditional Dutch breakfast appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Local hot-spot Panificio Firenze, a tasty joint serving as grocery store (alimentari), bakery (panificio) and deli (salumi), has been delighting locals with fresh breads, meats, and cheeses since 1929. At lunch time it’s as busy and chaotic as the trading floor at the stock exchange.

Made to order

Follow these simple steps for Panini perfection:

1) If the place is super busy, pull a ticket from the machine by the front door. Wait for your number to show up on the display overhead.

2) Choose your filling from a range of delicious fresh meats and cheeses on display. Watch as the goods get weighed.

3) Pay a reasonable price for your taste sensation. Enjoy!

Crusty rolls and fresh breads, too!

My personal favorite? The prosciutto and mozzarella on flatbread (focaccia), warmed in the oven for a minute or two… bellissimo! The roasted pork sandwiches served in crusty rolls occasionally make an appearance, and are devilishly tasty, too.

Another great bet is Panificio’s mini pizzas. Just out of the oven, they are divine. Locals like to eat them cut down the middle and folded. The cost for this delight will only set you back €1.50.

A cornucopia of different types of freshly baked bread is always on display. From crusty rolls to sublime focaccia, the panificio (baker) also offers up a good assortment of biscuits and pastries. In addition, Panificio is the perfect place to pop in for picnic provisions like finely sliced Mortadella or Bresola.

It’s easy to walk by…

Know before you go

It can be a little tricky to find, as there isn’t any sign hanging out front. Panificio Firenze is located just off Via Nazionale (Piazza Republica end) at 51-52 Via Firenze, Rome. The closest metro is Republica.

Panificio is open Monday through Friday from 7 AM to 7 PM, on Saturdays until 2 PM, and is closed on Sundays. (Tel: 06-488-5035)

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