Based on my experience, here are a few tips on how to experience a guilt-free shopping spree in Paris.

Now, let’s tally forth!

Paris shopping tips for budget travelers

1. Timing is key

Bargain hunter to the core? Try to schedule your trip during one of the citywide sales. The “Soldes d’hiver” launch in January and continue through February, while the “Soldes d’ete” are on tap to woo for six weeks in June and July.

Also, during the sales the prices start to drop and keep on dropping, so it’s a judgment call as to whether to pounce early and get the best selection, or wait it out a little and get the best deals. To be perfectly honest, I do both.

O, my deer! Do consider a basic shopping kit prior to your trip. A scene from a Bon Marché window. Photo: T. Brack

2. Be Prepared

Prior to setting out, consider your basic shopping kit: water bottle, moleskin (for blisters), a snack, Métro tickets, maps with targeted shops circled, and coins for WCs. And don’t forget a sturdy bag for your treasures. Most French grocery stores sell them at checkout for just a few cents. Lightweight and good-looking, they make perfect souvenirs, too.

My sister Wendy suggests also packing a camera for self-portraits, and snaps of celebrities like Lenny Kravitz. “Are you going our way?” we recently cried as he sped past us on his bike, near the Opéra. I don’t think he heard us because, well, he didn’t stop.

Regarding rooftop selfies: #Holdontotheledge

Visualization always helps me narrow my Great Hunt. A scene from a Printemps’ window. Photo: T. Brack

3. Plan of Action

Have a “quest” in mind, since visualization will help narrow your hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your desire.

What’s missing from your closet? Ballet slippers? Trench coat? Both are timeless French classics. Or perhaps you covet a Longchamp tote? Heck, we’ve been there. How about just a nice pair of shoes? Nobody’s going to judge you. It’s Paris, after all. So grab a pen and create a wish list.

Are you going our way? If so, take the bus, Gus! A scene from a Galeries Lafayette window. Photo: T. Brack

4. Getting around

Time is precious. However, it’s possible to visit two fashion-related exhibitions, three monuments, four department stores, and five prime (and affordable) shopping districts—all in one day. Lean in, because it’s true. Mine eyes have seen the glory!

What’s my secret? Get on the bus, Gus. For the price of a Métro ticket, you’ll not only cruise between the shopping districts with the greatest of ease, but also boast about your first scores of the day while the panorama of Paris rolls by en route to the next shopping district. You can use the same ticket for rides on several buses taken within 90 minutes of the first time you get it stamped.

To cite just one example, there are several personal favorite shopping meccas along the “95” bus route: Montmartre-Abbesses, Boulevard Haussmann, the Opéra district rue de Rivoli, and rue de Rennes. Talk about wheeling and dealing!

My sister Wendy documenting the Eiffel Tower and favorite sacred shopping grounds at Place de la Madeleine. Photo: T. Brack

5. Favorite Shopping ’Hoods

I’m no diva, but I do like to shop-hop without a lot of hassle. Focusing not only on the place but also on the journey—i.e., on the experience of the visit itself—I’m always on the prowl for historic shopping zones as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores may carry similar items.

Here are a few more favorite shopping havens. I call it my T-Zone:

• Passage du Havre at Gare St-Lazare
• Magasin Décathlon at Place de la Madeleine
• Le Bon Marché at Métro Sevres-Babylone
• the whole stretch of rue de Rennes, along with Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Champs-Élysées, rue de Rivoli
• BHV at Hôtel de Ville.

Related: Our 10 favorite shopping districts in Paris

You’ll find a pocket of vintage clothing shops in the Marais. Photo: T. Brack

6. Paging Secondhand-Roses

Possess a mad penchant for collecting the garb of yesteryear? I’m with you, step by step. Paris still gives me a strong Proustian dose of solidarity with both past and present. Throughout Paris, you’ll find pockets of “friperies” (second-hand clothing shops) and “depôts-ventes” (consignment shops), but especially in Abbesses and the Marais.

Also, Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV) now boasts a new vintage clothing department. Here you’ll find retro garb, along with gently used bags, scarves, hats, and shoes. During one of my recent sleuthing trips, I spied more than a few big name Catherine Deneuve-worthy trench coats here—but without their usual exorbitant price tags.

Related: Know you secondhand shopping vocabulary in Paris

Getting all Tête-à-Tête at the Porte de Vanves Flea Market. Photo: T. Brack

7. Flea Markets

Don’t leave Paris without at least one trip to the Porte de Vanves Flea Market. I’ve also scored big at the “brocantes” (antique/junk sales) and the vide-greniers (neighborhood-wide attic sales). Down through the years, I’ve found pink Valentino heels, black boots by Charles Jourdan, and a pointy brassiere by Maison Cadolle handmade in the 1940s. And none cost more than 30 euros.

Click here for the 2016 listing of brocantes, vide-greniers and marches aux puces.

Related: Shopping tips for flea market success in Paris

Keep your peepers peeled for pickpockets whist browsing through the bargain bins. Photo: T. Brack

8. Bargain Bins

I often find my bargain bin bliss at the Sympa shops on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart . Located at the foot of Sacré Coeur in Montmartre, the stock is always in rotation. Here you’ll find Kookai, Jennyfer, and Naf-Naf, along with Best Mountain, Etam, and Undiz, but at a fraction of their original cost.

Don your elbow pads, eat a hearty breakfast, and keep your peepers peeled for pickpockets. Game on!

Galeries Lafayette’s Belle Époque rocking dome has never failed to bring me to tears. Photo: T. Brack

9. Grand Magasins

Paris boasts four famous old department stores. Bon Marché, Printemps, and Galeries Lafayette are conveniently located along the Métro 12 line, while Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV) holds court next to the Hôtel de Ville. Winding it back to the Belle Epoque, they’d lure the Cheapos of that day inside with displays of discounted silk remnants (a.k.a. “coupons”—literally “piece cut off,” from couper “o cut”).

Here’s how to get a few coupons of your own.

Don’t discount the tourist discount cards because every little bit counts. Photo: T. Brack

Tourist Discount Cards at BHV and Galeries Lafayette

Both BHV and Galeries Lafayette offer tourist discount cards, which knock off 10% on selected items. To score G.L.’s “Exceptional 10% Discount” card, present your passport at the information desk on the store’s ground floor near the rue Mogador entrance.

You’ll find BHV’s “-10% offer*” discount voucher on their website. Print it before leaving home and then present it at the welcome desk, along with your passport. It’s just that easy!

Department store house brands are often slashed by 20% to 50% during the big sales. A scene from Printemps. Photo: T. Brack

House Brands

Don’t miss the department store house brands. Affordable, well-made, and sporting souvenir-worthy labels, the collections feature bags, scarves, and sweaters. During the two annual sale periods (mentioned above), price tags are slashed by 20-50%.

Plus, Galeries Lafayette and BHV’s house brands are often eligible for the tourist discount. So do request your card. As my grandmother put it, “It all adds up.”

We always feel snappy and happy like room without a roof up on the rooftop at Galeries Lafayette. Photo: T. Brack

Rooftop Views

For years now, I’ve carried on a torrid love affair with the rooftop café at Printemps. Here, the wine is affordable and the panoramic view of the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra Garnier, and Sacré Coeur is free. The roof of Galeries Lafayette also sweetly tempts with its faux green grass and funky red plastic chairs and sofas.

But now, there’s a new roof in town. Not to be outdone in the potted plant department, Le BHV Marais now has its very own rooftop terrace. “Perchoir Marais” is open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, after the store closes. It’s another win-sin.

As Oscar Wilde once quipped, “The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it.”

I completely agree. Happy Hunting!

The post Paris Shopping Tips: How to save big on your shopping spree appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Rumor has it you’re planning a trip to Paris! So bless your soul and grab my hand. I have a few recommendations for a dreamy Parisian bucket list, big or tall. Here is where I find my inspiration!

Hang out at Shakespeare and Company.

1. Book it!

While kicking down the cobblestones, why not pick up a Paris-related book or novella? Check out Shakespeare & Co. at 37 rue Bûcherie (Metro: Saint-Michel). Located near Notre Dame, it is the most enchanting bookshop in the city!

Through the hard times and the good, I also praise the San Francisco Bookshop at 17 Rue Monsieur le Prince (Metro: Odéon). Here is where I recently found a well-loved copy of “A Literate Passion: Letters of Anaïs Nin & Henry Miller”. Talk about the ultimate starry-eyed read!

Henry wrote: “I have not dared until now to say what I think. But I am plunging—you have opened the void for me—there is no holding back. I am in a fever.” Oh, sigh!

(Read more about our favorite bookstores in Paris.)

Get cheesy at the fromagerie.

2. Eat, Drink and be Merry

And speaking of Henry’s valentine, he also penned, “The aim of life is to live, and to live means to be aware: joyously, drunkenly, serenely, divinely aware!”

Here’s the squeal! Paris is made up of beaucoup boulangeries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, and glaciers. Clipping The Left Banke, don’t walk away, Renée—spurge away! Also, ask for tidbit samples and recommendations. Cheapos, they know.

My gastronomical checklist:

Don’t leave the city without trying a crème brûlé, a meringue, and at least one macaron, along with a baguette, a pain au chocolat, and a selection of young fromage (difficult to find outside of France). Let’s not forget the wine and the crêpes! “Je voudrais une crêpe fromage-jambon, s’il vous plaît,” is what I always say!

(Read more about our favorite cafes and bakeries in Paris.)

3. Big City, Bright Lights

I also advocate sipping a round on a café terrace. Winter, spring, summer and fall, you won’t forget it! For pumped-up kicks, give Suze a shot! A gentian-based apéritif, this old-school bar favorite is typically served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice. Challenge your mates to describe its strange and peculiar flavor!

Back in the day, Picasso quipped, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Yes, the iconic bottle played muse to Picasso back in 1912. Hands-down, his super-cube collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze” always sets my rain on fire!

(Read more about drinks to try at any cafe in Paris.)

Hanging out in the Jardin du Luxembourg

4. Parks and Rec

After you’ve picked up your reads and nibbles, head to one of my favorite parks: Jardin du Luxembourg (Metro: Notre-Dame des Champs, Rennes or Vavin), Jardin des Tuileries (Metro: Tuileries, Concorde, Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre, Pyramides) and the Jardin du Palais Royal (Metro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre).

WWHD? (What would Hem do?)

Hemingway would most likely mosey on over to the Square du Vert-Galant (Metro: Pont Neuf, Cité or Saint-Michel), and chill with wine, books, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.”

(Read in detail about our favorite parks in Paris.)

Lovely, moody Pere Lachaise.

Last stop

Cemeteries are also perfect spots for a little peace, love and understanding. I often curl up with Oscar Wilde at the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise. Like a new pair of cat eyeglasses, the calm terrain not only changes perception, but also attitude. The surrounding beauty both soothes and re-energizes my spirits every time.

Here you’ll also find comfort with Chopin, Modigliani, Proust, Edith Piaf and Jim Morrison. It’s free, and the perfect Paris experience, rain or shine. Come with a journal or sketchbook in hand. In the words of the dashing Wilde, “I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train.” Oh, yes.

5. Taxi!

After nightfall, treat yourself to a cab ride in the City of Light. This is when the city truly twinkles. If you’re not already a wee intoxicated, you soon will be. I guarantee it.

To catch a ride, keep your eyes peeled for a cabstand. You could also hoof around the city after sundown. In Paris I always feel safe as houses, even when I roll solo.

6. Eiffel Tower

Like the moon and stars, the Eiffel Tower is a free show from almost anywhere in town, but better yet go there! Add it to your list. Just do it. Looking for a picture-perfect shot? Shoot up from below, center stage. Here the tower’s iron lattice resembles classic French black lace knickers. Oh, la, la!

I also highly recommend scoring an Eiffel Tower key chain at one of the souvenir shops in Montmartre. For the true love of corn, you’ll thank me one day in the near future. I have no doubts and no shortage of miniature replicas in my very own big box of life’s mementos. Just saying.

View from the rooftop.

7. Up on the roof

Right smack dab in the middle of town, I have a pet rooftop haven. Galeries Lafayette has never let me down! Up here, you’ll spy the Opéra Garnier, the Tour Eiffel, and Sacré Coeur. It’s another perfect spot to recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with sunsets and to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture!

(Read more about visiting the rooftop of Galeries Lafayette and tips for visiting the Sacre Coeur.)

8. Quill Power

Go vintage! Buy your postcards at the flea market! In the world of texts and emoticons, a little handwriting will feel good to the hand, spirit, cat sitter or paramour! Start the search for “cartes postale ancienne” at either the Porte de Vanves Flea Market or Clignancourt Flea Market at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès).

(Read our tips for shopping at flea markets in Paris.)

Signing off with yet another passage by Hemingway, Cheapos, “There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.”

Bon Voyage! Carpe diem, Cheapos! Now start planning that trip!

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Just ask and you shall (hopefully) receive:

1. Water at meals

All meals, from the ritziest restaurant to the lowliest donor kebab, should come with a free pitcher of tap water. Even an espresso comes with a glass of room temperature hydration.

If you don’t have a pitcher when your food comes, simply ask for “une carafe d’eau, s’il vous plait,” and don’t hesitate to ask for refills.

2. Bread at meals

Bread is also a staple at the table, so don’t hesitate to ask for it. In typical restaurants, mustard, salt, pepper and bread will be put on the table before you receive your meal. Of course there are many exceptions, but if you’re having a sit-down meal, asking for bread (“le pain, s’il vous plait”) will surprise no one. This is the birthplace of the baguette, after all.

3. Maps

Tourists hitting the streets of Paris with their guidebook maps are often disappointed by the missing streets and tiny Metro maps printed inside the cover of their books. Fortunately cartography is a big business in Paris. Metro maps, in both large and small formats, can be obtained for free at most Metro stations. (Simply ask for “un plan de Metro, s’il vous plait.”)

And the Galeries Lafayettes, one of Paris’ famed department stores, prints free city maps (“plan de Paris”) that can be found in the reception areas of most of Paris’ hotels and hostels, along with other major tourist sights.

4. Samples

This one’s delicate. Free samples are abundant in Paris – if you know when to ask. Many chocolate shops will offer a taste if you linger long enough, but play your cards right. If the shopkeeper can tell you’re going to buy something, he or she will have fewer qualms about offering up a sample to help you decide. And sometimes not.

When you stroll through outdoor markets, merchants are all too eager to have you taste their pineapples and mangos, so just say “Merci!” and taste away. Cheese shops will also be fairly willing to cut you a sliver if you ask to taste the difference between two choices, if you’re clearly going to purchase some fromage.

5. Toilets

While there are many free public bathrooms that look like small space pods located throughout the city, bathrooms are also available with any purchase at a café. If you purchase a café or a Perrier at the café bar (remember, it’s cheaper at the bar than at a table), you can ask for the bathroom without worries.

Note: If the bathroom door looks like it is coin-operated, simply ask for the “jeton” (token) from the server and he or she will hand you a silver coin that will open the door.

6. ATM withdrawals (for Bank of America clients)

Free money? Well, almost. If you want to avoid paying pesky bank fees, you can withdraw without charge from the BNP Paribas bank if you have a Bank of America account. If this applies to you, you will curtail any travelers’ checks or foreign exchange fees that have troubled travelers for so many years. (Read our guide to ATM bank fees for Americans abroad.)

7.  Wi-Fi

I’ve said it once and I’ve said it again: paying for the internet in Paris is a scam. With Paris’ public Wi-Fi program, and the various wireless networks available in cafés and McDonald’s, there is no reason to drop a dime to check your email.

For more information, read my previous post on where to find free Wi-Fi in Paris. Trust me, it still works as long as you have a smart phone or laptop.

Your favorite free things in Paris?

What other freebies have you found in the City of Light? Tell us, Cheapos, in the comments section.

The post Paris: 7 things that are always free in Paris appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

What do you like? Study the billboards!

But first things first, let’s prepare for our voluptuous quest. Looking for discounts? Schedule your trip during either the big January or July sale periods. Also, know your European size numbers. Upon your arrival, start looking for lingerie billboards. It’s an easy, breezy way to figure out what you like and don’t like. Plus, it’s free.

So without further ado, here are six of my favorite hunting grounds for lingerie. From the grand magasins to the bargain bins of Montmartre, all budgets are covered here. Plus, I’ve asked a few of my Parisian friends to drop the names of their pet brands and shops, along with a few tips.

1. Department stores

Shake the jetlag blues away with a little browsing at Galeries Lafayette. Its entire third floor, a.k.a. “Seductive Fashion” is dedicated to lingerie and hosiery, and yes, it’s got the goods to back up its name. With a dazzling slew of French brands, you’ll be able to cover a lot of ground without a great deal of wear’n’tear on your heels. I personally like shopping here because the no-pressure staff gives me space to browse and dream.

More “Seductive Fashion” at Galeries Lafayette.

Every once in a while, I’ll treat myself to an exquisite piece by century–old Aubade and Galeries Lafayette’s very own alluring house brand. Here you’ll also find Erès—my friend Anne’s favorite brand. “Cozy,” is how the discerning book designer succinctly described her decades-old French staple. Erès’ bathing suits also boast all-natural construction. You won’t find any uncomfortable high wire acts here, Cheapos.

2. Old-school lingerie shops

Are you in need of individual attention or a bra fitting? Well then, trek it to one of the independently owned lingerie and hosiery shops. My former beau (and now my husband) purchases special little sweet-nothing gifts at the Corsetry boutique Claverie at 234 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, near Metro Louis-Blanc.

In business since 1860, Josephine Baker and Mistinguett are just a few of the starlets who frequented the former corset showroom. Art Nouveau stained glass and curved staircases abound! These small classic French institutions are slowly becoming extinct, so while the sheer fun of it lasts, take a browse!

Etam at the former La Samaritaine department store

3. Chain, chain, chain

Trendy French chains also stock tantalizing collections. Musician Cat Masson didn’t miss a beat when I quizzed her about her favorite lingerie lines. “I love Etam and Oysho, too! Princesse Tam Tam is really nice—a little pricy but worth it! Here’s my secret. After I wash them in the machine inside a little lingerie bag at 30 to 40 degrees maximum, I hang them until they’re dry. Don’t forget the bag! They’ll last longer.”

4. Like Target?

Well, then you’ll love its French cousin Monoprix. Affordable and hip, the trusty chain also commissions designers to create their collections. My clothes designer friend Ghislaine swears by Monoprix’s house brand of lingerie. “It’s affordable and good quality. And pretty too! Some I have had for ages! So long that the tags have become unreadable.”

Rue de Rennes is a prime Cheapo hunting ground for lingerie. Here the brands to spy for are Monoprix (50), Valege (146) and Darjeeling (152), along with Cat’s picks: Etam (135-139), and Princesse Tam Tam at 53 rue Bonaparte, located just a hop, slip and jump from the Rennes Metro stop.

Dig in at Sympa in Montmartre.

5. Bargain bin bliss

And squeaking of historic buildings, don’t leave Paris without experiencing the bargain bins of Sympa at 62 Boulevard de Rochechouart. A Cheapo haven, it now occupies a part of “le bal de l’Elysée Montmartre,” where the famed Can Can star (and favorite muse of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec) La Goulue made her racy debut!

Here at Sympa, Etam, Petit Bateau, and Unzies sit pretty on the outside, while Chantelle and Huit hold court inside. My book editor friend Annelise recommends Petit Bateau. A century-old institution, she said, “For me, the “touch” of the clothes is pure cotton, simple looks, and a sweet taste of childhood.”

Shhhh. Secrets Pigalle in Pigalle.

6. Pigalle

Located near Sympa you’ll find the shops of Pigalle. Whether you’re in the market for false eyelashes, custom-made corsets, or Nancy Sinatra-worthy go-go latex boots, they’ve got you covered both night and day. I’d kick off my search at either Secrets Pigalle on 62 Boulevard de Clichy or Rebecca Rils at 76 Boulevard de Clichy. Kitty corner to the pair of shops is the Moulin Rouge. There are lots of distractions, so look both ways before crossing!

Cheapos, do you have a favorite lingerie shop in Paris?

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Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché

So fire up your printers, Cheapos! Here’s the agenda for the first day of our shop ’til you drop campaign of Napoleonic proportions!

Tips

Do pack one oversized bag for your goods. While the multiple-shopping bag scene with Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman” is charming and all, you’re just inviting advances from pickpockets. Most grocery store chains sell durable large bags for just a few cents. Franprix’s current model was inspired by Mondrian!

Also, for the love of saving both time and money, purchase your Metro tickets by the “carnet” (10-pack) before you set out.

Galeries Lafayette’s dome

10:00 a.m.: Abbesses
Metro: Abbesses, line 12

After a short run around the Sacré Coeur ’hood to help Wen shake the jet lag blues, we headed to Sympa for some bargain bin shopping. This string of shops runs along rue de Steinkerque, a street once notorious for its brothels and dance halls. (Picasso shopped here!)

On this day we were able to score some slinky black tops by Carling, each costing €2.99 a pop! Confession: I bought twelve, and my sister purchased nine. Heads-up: Etam’s frilly spring 2011 line of lingerie is currently on sale for just a few euros apiece!

11:00 a.m.: 140 bis, rue de Rennes
Metro: Rennes, line 12

We then soared to Zara at the Félix Potin building (an Art Nouveau masterpiece) on the bustling rue de Rennes. It’s a pet Zara hot spot because the location usually serves as one of last stops for the chain’s leftover winter clothing sales.

Commes des Garcons’ exhibit at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile

Here my sister scooped up a classic belted trench coat, along with seven cap-sleeved turtle necks, all costing just €3.99 a piece. By this victorious moment, the woozy feeling of jet lag had completely abandoned the scene. Yes, sometimes fleeting joy CAN be bought!

12 noon: Bon Marché
Metro: Sevres-Babylone, line 12

After grabbing soda pops just outside the Rennes metro stop, we fast-trekked to the Christian Dior exhibition at Bon Marché. Decked out in Dior’s beloved white and grey, the exhibit was made up of iconic “New Look” ensembles, photographs, and super hip multimedia projections on oversized accessories like chairs, mannequins and hat boxes. After a few spins around the gallery, we snagged a few sweets at the Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché, which is just behind the main building.

Wendy’s new coat

Please note: the Dior exhibit closes March 26, 2011, so if you’re in Paris now, hotfoot it there right away. Not in Paris? Fret not, because the department store often coordinates free exhibits. There will be more to come!

1:30 p.m.: Carrousel du Louvre
Metro: Louvre Rivoli, line 1

Feeling the sugar rush, we raced to the “Les années 1900-2000” exhibition at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile. Our favorite showstoppers included Jean Paul Gaultier’s plumes, Junya Watanabe’s unstoppable bustles, and Comme des Garcons’ bulges in all the wrong places.

Afterwards, we had a wonderful, marvelous photo-op at the Arc-de-Triomphe du Carrousel. Film buffs, this is where the iconic balloon scene in “Funny Face” with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire was shot. ‘S Marvelous!

3:30 p.m.: Samaritaine at Pont Neuf
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

Spotting a few dramatic-looking rain clouds heading our way, we made a joint decision to promenade swiftly down rue de Rivoli to Zara’s other “last stop” for sale items, located in the former Samaritaine department store at Chatêlet.

After ogling its spectacular exterior, we nipped into Zara where Wen picked up a few more turtlenecks (Can you ever have enough? I don’t think so!), and I scored a fur-lined vest and a thick green felt dress, both costing just €6.

4:30 p.m.: Pont Neuf and Saint Germain
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

We then made our way to the Pont Neuf to pay homage to King Henri IV (a.k.a. “Le Vert Galant”), and yes, to check out his boots. Green with envy and fatigue, we slowly crept across the bridge, limping toward Saint Germain des Prés.

The dapper monarch’s benediction must have been with us because in no time at all we found ourselves seated in a cozy boutique, surrounded by hundreds of boots, all on sale. The proprietor was extremely personable, helping my sister find the boots of her dreams. The boots? On Sale. The Cendrillon (Cinderella) experience? Priceless.

View from the flat at l’heure bleu

6:00 p.m.: Boulevard Haussmann
Metro: Havre-Caumartin, line 7

Losing both daylight and any remaining feeling in our feet (or “dogs” as my grandmother Wentz would say), we ended our whirlwind day trip by paying a call on those Belle Époque beauties, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on Boulevard Haussmann.

After an ogle and a gaze at GL’s amazing dome, we stopped by its gourmet shop, where we loaded up with bread, Cantal cheese, and a bottle of crisp white Cheverny. Then we slowly hobbled back to Saint-Lazare, where we caught line 12 back to Abbesses, just in time for l’heure bleu (twilight), more sister bonding, and planning for the next day!

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When you’re visiting Paris and “hitting the sights,” you shouldn’t spend half of your precious time waiting in lines. If you follow a few simple tips, you could curtail those lines and large groups and spend more time strolling the streets and relaxing in cafés after a day of successful sightseeing.

Here are seven ways to beat the crowds:

1. Sacre Cœur

The Sacre Cœur Basilica atop the Montmartre neighborhood is a gleaming white monument that attracts visitors like moths to a light, especially on weekends and during the summer. But head to the church at night–it’s open until 11 p.m. every day. At night, not only do you get a spectacular view of the city from the highest point in Paris, but you can wander the church without herds of camera-toting tourists behind you. (Speaking of which, there are no photos allowed!)

Oh, Mona! Photo: Stew Dean

2. Mona Lisa and the Louvre

Visiting da Vinci’s famed Mona Lisa at the Louvre is a must, especially for the first-time Parisian experience. But the crush of people in front of this tiny painting can be unbearable, especially on the first Sunday of the month when museums and monuments are free.

Visiting the Louvre first thing in the morning or during one of its nocturnal openings (Wednesday and Friday from 6-10 p.m.) will allow for a much more pleasant (if more expensive) experience, hopefully devoid of the crazy, snapping crowds.

3. Bakery

Getting the best baguettes and pastries in Paris can be difficult if you go during “rush hours.” While there’s rarely a wrong place to grab an éclair or loaf, there is a wrong time. Avoid the bakeries at lunch time and during the evening rush hours. For example, my favorite bakery has a line out the door at 6 p.m. every night, even during the winter. I drop by early in the morning for fresh pastries or later in the afternoon before the rush hour traffic arrives.

4. Department stores

Exploring department stores in Paris can be a rewarding treat. Not only is the merchandise fun to browse, but the stores themselves are works of art. If you show up on the wrong day or time, however, even an hour at the Galeries Lafayette or Printemps stores can leave you exhausted.

During the twice-annual sales, “soldes” in French (during the late summer and early winter), the stores become veritable havens for bargain hunters. No store is safe at these times. During the rest of the year, Saturdays are an agoraphobic shopper’s worst nightmare, as well.

If you need a breather, take the escalators to the top floor. The observation deck atop the Galeries Lafayette is free and offers a unique view of Paris.

5. Metro

While the Metro is never ideal for those inclined to panic attacks, the absolute worst time to ride are during rush hours, around 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. Parisian work days typically start around 10 and end around 6, so to avoid the rush, either get to the Metro station earlier or, well, walk. During the rest of the day, finding a seat shouldn’t be a problem. During the rush hour, however, you might not be able to squeeze into the train at all.

6. The Conciergerie and Sainte Chapelle

The Conciergerie and Sainte Chapelle are two extremely popular tourist attractions, both located on the Ile de la Cité near Notre Dame. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the crowds lined up on the sidewalk, making Marie Antoinette’s prison cell and Louis IX’s stain-glassed chapel feel like Space Mountain at Disney World.

Weekends, again, are bad times to go. Also, if visiting on the “first free Sunday of the month,” remember that the word “free” speaks to everyone. You’ll save some money, but you’ll lose lots of time, so weigh the pros and cons.

7. Eiffel Tower

Ascending the Eiffel Tower is an experience cherished by more than 6 million tourists each year. Unfortunately, most of them will also remember waiting upwards of an hour in line to take the elevator to the top.

There are ways around this, however. The most intrepid and athletic tourists can hike up to the first level by foot and then catch the elevator from there, bypassing the lines at the base of the tower. For those of us with less stamina, remember that the tower is open late into the evening, until 12:45 a.m. during the summer and until 11:45 p.m. the rest of the year. While other tourists are grabbing dinner, take advantage of the shorter lines!

The post Paris: 7 ways to avoid crowds at sights, stores and more appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Oh, the weather in Paris has been frightful, but the city is still delightful. So crank up Tino Rossi’s classic “Petit Papa Nöel” on the gramophone, or pull on your boots and bravely hot step it outside. For your wandering pleasure, I’ve created a personal list of my favorite holiday rituals and fancy rites!

Lights

Inside Galeries Lafayette

I typically kick off my holiday season with a jaunt to the lights and “vitrines de Noël” (holiday windows) on Boulevard Haussmann. This year, Galeries Lafayette’s windows were outfitted by Italian artist (and master of the spectacle) Valerio Festi to celebrate the resonating, magical beauty of musicals like Hairspray, Le Soldat Rose, Les Rockettes and Mamma Mia.

Meanwhile at nearby Printemps (102 Rue de Provence), royals and marionettes romp and frolic in fantastical and giddy “Nöel au Chateau” tableaux by Lanvin’s artistic director, Alber Elbaz. A “B.F.F. of the Cheapos,” we have Monsieur Elbaz to thank for introducing an affordable Lanvin line to H&M this year. Ooh-Ra-Ra!

Also, let’s not forget the smaller shops! Often restaurants, pâtisseries, boutiques, and even pharmacies hire artists to create holiday murals. Shopping districts in every arrondissement are also gussied up with streetlights.

Cookies

During the holidays I carry at least one meringue cookie in my trench coat pocket or bag at all times. Sweet and crunchy, it’s the ultimate instant sugar rush, making the perfect portable snack. Yes, Goldilocks, size does matter, so go with a medium-sized cookie because the smaller ones are sometimes on the dry side, and the larger ones are occasionally too soft.

Clémentines à feuilles at Lafayette Gourmet

Also, while in nibble-mode, sample other types of cookies like jelly-filled powdered lunettes, rich and crispy florentines, and fleshy iconic macarons. Looking for a big cookie? Ask for a sandy and oh-so-buttery “sablé”!

Fruit

During the colder months, clémentines à feuilles (i.e., with green leaves still attached to show how fresh they are) reign at the produce stands in Paris. You’ll also be tempted by big, bright pyramids of citrons (lemons), cédrats (citrons), and pamplemousses (grapefruit), not to mention tangerines, limes, mandarines, and oranges.

Keep your eyes peeled for les figues violette (purple figs), poires (pears), pommes (apples), raisins (grapes) and caramboliers (star fish). Remember, the produce merchant is your friend and advisor, so don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations!

Chopin at the Musée de la Vie Romantique

Museum Houses

Musée de la Vie Romantique
16 Rue Chaptal (Métro Blanche)

In the quiet and quaint “Nouvelle Athènes” area around Métro Saint-George, you’ll find the Musée de la Vie Romantique. Formerly the home of painter Ary Scheffer, it now showcases works from the Romantic Movement in art and literature. Back in the day, this is where George Sand, Chopin, Delaxroix, Lizt, and Rossini would gather! Scheffer’s paintings are displayed the second floor, while his spunky neighbor George Sand’s art, personal artifacts (and her bling, too!) occupy the first floor. Pack a hankie because electric candlelight and piped-in Chopin gently lends it a truly romantic ambiance.

Hooked on houses? Check out still more amazing digs:

Musée du Gustave Moreau on 14 rue de La Rochefoucauld (Métro Trinité)

Jacquemart-Andre Museum on 158 Boulevard Haussmann (Métro Miromesnil)

Maison de Victor Hugo at 6 place des Vosges (Metro: Chemin-Vert or Saint-Paul)

Le Musée de la Poupée at Impasse Berthaud (Métro Rambuteau) The Doll Museum’s exhibition “Le Retour du Père Nöel” closes January 9.

Cinema 28

Movies

The sun sets early in winter, so why not cozy up with an old flick at the cinema? After seeing “Pat Garrett and Billy the Kid,” followed by Audrey Hepburn’s “Love in the Afternoon” one cold and wet New Year’s Day, this became my personal holiday tradition.

My favorite cinema is Studio 28 in Abbesses. Founded in 1928, it became world’s first avant-garde art theater after Salvador Dali and Luis Buñuel premiered one of the first surrealist films there: “L’Age d’Or.” Do look up. Jean Cocteau designed the theater chandeliers!

Also showing oldie-but-goodie American classics (which, by the way, the locals love) are the Action Ecoles at 23 rue des Ecoles (Métro Maubert-Mutualité or Jussieu), the Action Christine on 4 rue Christine (Métro Odéon or Saint-Michel), and the Grand Action at 5 rue des Ecoles (Métro Cardinal-Lemoine or Jussieu)—just to name a few.

Happy Holidays, Cheapos!

The post Paris Holiday Rituals: Lights, cookies, action! appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Here are several ways you can catch the Christmas spirit in Paris:

1. Department store window displays

The windows at the department stores are not quite as extravagant as those on Fifth Avenue in New York, but the Galeries Lafayette and Bon Marché stores do their best to compete. And the best part is that you don’t even have to worry about expensive price tags to enjoy the holiday decoration.

Galeries Lafayette: This year a Broadway theme dominates at the Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussmann. Children especially love watching the puppets dancing to the “Mamma Mia!” soundtrack. (38 Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin, 75009, Metro: Chaussée d’Antin-Lafayette)

BHV: Meanwhile, over at the iconic BHV department store on rue de Rivoli, Santa tackles the circus in a series of colorful windows. (52 Rue de Rivoli, 75004, Metro: Hotel de Ville)

Also check out Printemps, next to the Galeries Lafayette (102 Rue de Provence, 75009. Metro: Saint-Lazare) and Le Bon Marché (24 Rue de Sèvres, 75007, Metro: Sèvres-Babylone).

Make sure to take a look inside each store for their elaborate Christmas trees, as well.

2. Christmas markets in Paris

If you are looking to do a little holiday shopping like the Europeans do, check out the holiday markets around town.

A tradition hailing from neighboring Germany, the bustling marchés de Noel can be found throughout Paris. While the merchandise may be kitschy and overpriced, the hot mulled wine is always yummy at just €3 for a cup of cheer.

Here are a few marchés to consider:

Champs Elysées: Tourists flock to the famed Champs Elysées market, a holiday wonderland once the lights twinkle to life at night. If you feel like splurging €8 on a breathtaking view of the city, take a spin on the Ferris Wheel at the end on Place de la Concorde. (Metro: Concorde or Champs Elysées-Clemenceau)

Saint Sulpice: Other markets are much more intimate. At the market outside Saint Sulpice church in the Saint Germain neighborhood you can browse scarves and various cheeses. (Metro: Saint Sulpice)

Montmartre: A stroll (or Metro ride) up Montmartre and you’ll find yourself in the middle of a market at Places des Abbesses in the picturesque neighborhood-with-a-view. (Metro: Abbesses)

La Defense: For a more modern take on the holiday, browse the 350 vendors at the La Défense market, located in the city’s business district. (Metro: La Défense)

Real Parisians know that the best Christmas markets in France are located in Strasbourg, about two hours to the east of Paris. However, any competition fades after a few glasses of hot wine.

For more Christmas market listings, check out About.com’s list.

3. Christmas at Notre Dame

Sure, it may be “on the beaten tourist path,” but the city’s medieval cathedral has an extra magical glow during the holidays. A Christmas tree shimmers with blue lights outside under the massive Gothic bell towers. Inside, the famous nativity scene is on display and visitors are encouraged to leave messages of peace.

On December 20, the church will host its annual Christmas concert–and of course it’s all free! (Metro: Saint-Michel).

4. Holiday feasting

Eating is, of course, essential in France during the holiday season (and most seasons, for that matter). Parisian supermarkets are rife with chocolates and cakes, most importantly the bûche de Noel, a scrumptious chocolate and chestnut cake. Hot wine flows in most cafés as well throughout the holiday season as the temperatures drop and spirits need a little lifting.

Of course all of this holiday cheer doesn’t stop on Christmas day. Look in any bakery or pastry shop for the galette de Rois, or King Cake, that is popular around the time of the Epiphany in the two weeks after Christmas day. A word of caution: Be careful not to swallow the figurine hidden inside. Whoever chomps down upon the the prize is crowned King or Queen–and buys the cake the next year!

The post Paris: Christmas Windows, Holiday Markets, and More Ways to Celebrate the Season appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Related: 25 Free things to do and see in Paris

Here are a few Theadorable insider tips, surefire to make your tour of my favorite “grand magasin” a breeze. Why, it’s in the bag!

A sweeping view of the “produits de beauté”

Access

Make your entrance at the junction of rue Mogador and boulevard Haussmann. For stamina’s sake, pack a candy bar. You’ll find complimentary water and restrooms on every floor. (Tip: You can avoid the crowd by shopping on weekday mornings.)

Level 0—Welcome Area and Accessories

Here you’ll find a welcome desk, stocked with store maps. This is also where you’ll find out about all the special promotions. Don’t be daunted by the throngs of people. Like a Mont Blanc climb, the mob will dissipate with altitude as you head up. Keep both your wits and your bag in grip.

YSL under the dome

Stay focused and fast track it to the cosmetics and perfume area, located in the middle of the store. As you make your way, ogle the handbags, scarves, and hats to your heart’s desire, but don’t touch. Once a silk Kenzo scarf makes its soft and silky contact, you’ll never go Cheapo again. Yes, I have been there.

Level 0, Part II—Scents and Sensibility under the dome

Once you’ve reached the intricate maze of “produits de beauté,”  take time to smell the (sometimes synthetic bottled) roses, while gazing up at the stained glass “coupole” (domed ceiling). Installed in 1912, this Belle Epoch beauty with its Byzantine twist has never failed to bring me to tears or goose bumps. But if you’re like me, you’ll soon wipe your tears and then try out the new scents and colors by French classics like Guerlain, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Clarins. Free primping just got easier. (Tip: Watch out for uneven flooring and extension-cord coverings.)

Shoes along the stairs

Level Minus 1 (basement)—Shoes

Hold on to your hat, Cinderella! Make a detour downstairs to the brand-spanking-new and oh-so-tempting shoe zone, shining with 12,000 designer shoes and LED lighting. It’s the world’s largest shoe selection! Take the marble stairwell nestled in between the Gucci and Prada showrooms at ground level. On your way down, get an eyeful of the shoes exhibited in their little glass boxes. Lose your mind or just your glasses? Lost and found is also located on this level.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s swanky digs

Level 1—Designer Fashion

Now, on to the first floor above ground level. Jump off the escalator, and take a quick spin through the fantastic, high-ticketed (but well-worth a window-lick) showroom of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Also lean over the Art Nouveau balconies for a rather spectacular aerial view of the perfume and cosmetic booths below. The logos were installed specifically for this bird’s-eye view. You’ll find plush seating, complimentary water and a €1 coffee machine by the escalator.

Level 2—Contemporary Fashion

Here you find additional seating, more free water, a Coca-Cola Light machine, and Parisian closet staples like Kookai, Naf Naf, and Zara. The view keeps getting better with each floor.

A leg up under the dome

Level 3—Seductive Fashion

Yes, Cheapos, you are in France, so this is what the lingerie and hosiery is officially called, and yes, it possesses the alluring goods to back up the name! Don’t forget to take yet another peek of the action below.

Level 4—Life’s a Beach

Happily, the crowd starts to thin out here on the bathing suit level, so take advantage of the empty seating, more complimentary water, and the photo booth. Did I say photo booth? Yes! Why not? On this level, you’ll finally earn your first view of the exterior peak of the dome.

Level 5—Toy Store

Hello Kitty, goodbye heart! Uh oh. Need I say more?

Level 6—Eiffel Towers, brides, and books—oh, my

Break time under the dome

Here you’ll find the city’s largest souvenir shop (who’d-a-thunk-it?), bridal gowns, and one of my favorite bookstores in Paris. Plus: wide designer tables, lanky stools, and red stylish lamps lining the large windows, with views to a kill (apologies to Duran Duran). Kick off your heels, troll the arts section, and grab a book and stool. Your back and feet will thank you!

Level 7—Vogue under the big top

Galeries Lafayette also offers free fashion shows, lit by a disco ball. They’re usually held during the spring and fall seasons. You can reserve a ticket merely by writing welcome@galerieslayfayette.com and asking for one. (Tip: arrive early to get a front row seat worthy of Anna Wintour.)

A view of the Eiffel Tower

Level 8—Up on the roof

This is my favorite city-gazing hot spot. Arrayed for your panoramic pleasure, you’ll find the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra Garnier, and Sacré Coeur. So commandeer a ledge and recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture, dramatic cloud formations, sunsets, and non-stop people-watching!

Cheapos, repeat after me, “Non, je ne regrette rien!”

Want to know about other places to shop? Read about our 10 favorite shopping districts in Paris and tips to save big on shopping in Paris.

The post Favorite Place in Paris: The Rooftop at the Galeries Lafayette appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.