As an elegy to the echoing void the thief left behind, I’ve compiled a list of these artists’ residences and studios, peppered with a little ear-popping gossip, of course. Paris has always inspired artists. Often, though, it was their very own “room with a view” that spurred them on to dizzying (and sometimes scandalous) heights.

There are so many places I want to show you that this week I’ll take you on a stroll through Montmartre. Next time we’ll visit the other great Parisian hotbed of modern art, Montparnasse and St-Germain.

Come on, Cheapos, a-façading we will go!

Pablo Picasso
13 Place Emile-Goudeau, Le Bateau-Lavoir (1904-1909)

Picasso’s view of the Sacre Coeur

Named “le Bateau-Lavoir” because of its resemblance to the laundry barges on the Seine, this former piano factory (pictured, at top) was converted into artist studios around 1880. Rent was just fifteen francs, noise and chaos abounded and newspapers served as table linens.

It was here that Picasso met Georges Braque, who was living on the other side of the hill. “Notre pard,” Picasso took to calling the six-foot boxer, race car driver and dancer, a phrase he pinched from “Les Histoires de Buffalo Bill.” A tight bond was formed, and Cubism took flight. Picasso’s “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon”—considered by many art historians to be the first modern painting—was painted here.

Braque’s view

11 Boulevard de Clichy (1909-1912)

As more money rolled in, Picasso was able to move downhill to Clichy. Southern exposure and northern light filled the top floor of the new spacious digs, making it a perfect studio. Here Picasso fell under the spell of the stunning view of Sacré Coeur, the bewitching redheaded model Fernande Olivier and a monkey called “Mamina.” Picasso and Braque’s relationship and experimental fragmenting continued to flourish, both racing back and forth to each others’ apartments.

Georges Braque
48 rue d’Orsel and 101 rue Caulaincourt, Hôtel Roma (early 1900s)

The then brand-spanking-new, curvaceous-but-yet-angular Sacré Coeur helped kick off Cubism by rousing both Picasso and Braque. Both were driven to paint the Neo-Byzantine stunner in all her fragmented beauty. Braque could see Sacré Coeur’s powder-white towers and turrets from his window, but from the back side of the hill.

Feeling brazen, he asked the owner of his building on rue d’Orsel to post a sign stating that there were “Cubists on every floor!” But he could back it up. Cubistas. (Just saying.)

Modigliani
13, Place Emile-Goudeau Le Bateau Lavoir (1906) and 7 Place Jean-Baptiste Clément (1906-1907)

Modigliani’s House

Here Modigliani started experimenting with sculpting heads with railroad cross-ties stolen from the Barbès-Rochechouart Metro Station, which was still under construction at the time. His very public and spirited fusses with girlfriends Beatrice Hastings and Jeanne Hébuterne at Place Emile Goudeau are still legendary with the locals. Cool down at the Wallace Fountain with my favorite view, located in the middle of the square.

What’s up next?

Stay tuned for next time, when we’ll head across town to see the Left Bank digs of these artists and more! What happens when Picasso meets his new infatuation Eva Gouel? Will he stay or will he go on to leave Montmartre for Montparnasse?

Like sands through the hourglass, Cheapos, so are the nail-biting days of our lives!

The post Paris Walking Tour: Famous artists’ studios in Montmartre appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Related: 25 Free things to do and see in Paris

Here are a few Theadorable insider tips, surefire to make your tour of my favorite “grand magasin” a breeze. Why, it’s in the bag!

A sweeping view of the “produits de beauté”

Access

Make your entrance at the junction of rue Mogador and boulevard Haussmann. For stamina’s sake, pack a candy bar. You’ll find complimentary water and restrooms on every floor. (Tip: You can avoid the crowd by shopping on weekday mornings.)

Level 0—Welcome Area and Accessories

Here you’ll find a welcome desk, stocked with store maps. This is also where you’ll find out about all the special promotions. Don’t be daunted by the throngs of people. Like a Mont Blanc climb, the mob will dissipate with altitude as you head up. Keep both your wits and your bag in grip.

YSL under the dome

Stay focused and fast track it to the cosmetics and perfume area, located in the middle of the store. As you make your way, ogle the handbags, scarves, and hats to your heart’s desire, but don’t touch. Once a silk Kenzo scarf makes its soft and silky contact, you’ll never go Cheapo again. Yes, I have been there.

Level 0, Part II—Scents and Sensibility under the dome

Once you’ve reached the intricate maze of “produits de beauté,”  take time to smell the (sometimes synthetic bottled) roses, while gazing up at the stained glass “coupole” (domed ceiling). Installed in 1912, this Belle Epoch beauty with its Byzantine twist has never failed to bring me to tears or goose bumps. But if you’re like me, you’ll soon wipe your tears and then try out the new scents and colors by French classics like Guerlain, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Clarins. Free primping just got easier. (Tip: Watch out for uneven flooring and extension-cord coverings.)

Shoes along the stairs

Level Minus 1 (basement)—Shoes

Hold on to your hat, Cinderella! Make a detour downstairs to the brand-spanking-new and oh-so-tempting shoe zone, shining with 12,000 designer shoes and LED lighting. It’s the world’s largest shoe selection! Take the marble stairwell nestled in between the Gucci and Prada showrooms at ground level. On your way down, get an eyeful of the shoes exhibited in their little glass boxes. Lose your mind or just your glasses? Lost and found is also located on this level.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s swanky digs

Level 1—Designer Fashion

Now, on to the first floor above ground level. Jump off the escalator, and take a quick spin through the fantastic, high-ticketed (but well-worth a window-lick) showroom of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Also lean over the Art Nouveau balconies for a rather spectacular aerial view of the perfume and cosmetic booths below. The logos were installed specifically for this bird’s-eye view. You’ll find plush seating, complimentary water and a €1 coffee machine by the escalator.

Level 2—Contemporary Fashion

Here you find additional seating, more free water, a Coca-Cola Light machine, and Parisian closet staples like Kookai, Naf Naf, and Zara. The view keeps getting better with each floor.

A leg up under the dome

Level 3—Seductive Fashion

Yes, Cheapos, you are in France, so this is what the lingerie and hosiery is officially called, and yes, it possesses the alluring goods to back up the name! Don’t forget to take yet another peek of the action below.

Level 4—Life’s a Beach

Happily, the crowd starts to thin out here on the bathing suit level, so take advantage of the empty seating, more complimentary water, and the photo booth. Did I say photo booth? Yes! Why not? On this level, you’ll finally earn your first view of the exterior peak of the dome.

Level 5—Toy Store

Hello Kitty, goodbye heart! Uh oh. Need I say more?

Level 6—Eiffel Towers, brides, and books—oh, my

Break time under the dome

Here you’ll find the city’s largest souvenir shop (who’d-a-thunk-it?), bridal gowns, and one of my favorite bookstores in Paris. Plus: wide designer tables, lanky stools, and red stylish lamps lining the large windows, with views to a kill (apologies to Duran Duran). Kick off your heels, troll the arts section, and grab a book and stool. Your back and feet will thank you!

Level 7—Vogue under the big top

Galeries Lafayette also offers free fashion shows, lit by a disco ball. They’re usually held during the spring and fall seasons. You can reserve a ticket merely by writing welcome@galerieslayfayette.com and asking for one. (Tip: arrive early to get a front row seat worthy of Anna Wintour.)

A view of the Eiffel Tower

Level 8—Up on the roof

This is my favorite city-gazing hot spot. Arrayed for your panoramic pleasure, you’ll find the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra Garnier, and Sacré Coeur. So commandeer a ledge and recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture, dramatic cloud formations, sunsets, and non-stop people-watching!

Cheapos, repeat after me, “Non, je ne regrette rien!”

Want to know about other places to shop? Read about our 10 favorite shopping districts in Paris and tips to save big on shopping in Paris.

The post Favorite Place in Paris: The Rooftop at the Galeries Lafayette appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

The museum is housed in a gorgeous 19th-century townhouse that drips with romantic ornamentation. The house was built by Joseph Lesoufaché, a student of Garnier, for whom the nearby Opera Garnier was named. (When we say “nearby,” we mean it. The museum is less than half a block west of the opera!)

The Fragonard Museum provides free guided tours throughout the day. Learn how perfume has been made through the ages, and inspect the elaborate tools used in their production.

Just don’t be surprised if you’re inspired to buy some wares at the end of the tour!

Visiting Fragonard’s Perfume Museum

Le musee du parfum
9, rue Scribe
Metro: Opera
Tél: +33 (0) 1 47 42 04 56

The museum is open Monday to Saturday from 9 AM to 6 PM, Sundays and holidays, 9 AM to 5 PM.

For more details, visit the museum’s website.

Join us again tomorrow, as our “Grand Tour” continues in Prague.

The post Paris: Fragonard Perfume Museum offers free tours appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.