History of Venice’s Jewish Ghetto

This site was the first Jewish ghetto in the world and was created in 1516, after the authorities of Venice decided that all Jewish people living in Venice (mainly on the island of the Giudecca) had to move to a confined area and could not hold any job apart from those indicated by the Republic of Venice. Among the jobs that Jewish people were allowed to do were money-lending and mercantilism.

At night the gates of the Ghetto would be closed and nobody could go in or out of it. Armed guards on a boat would patrol the surrounding canals.

Getting there

The Jewish Ghetto is located just off Ponte delle Guglie in Cannaregio, at the beginning of the Strada Nuova. As you get off the bridge, turn immediately left and then immediately right under the arch that reads “Sotoportego del Ghetto Vecchio.” This was the former gate.

What to see

You will enter a small dark alley which will lead you into the ghetto. As you step back in time, you’ll notice the quietness and the lack of crowds. Also notice that the buildings here are seven to eight stories high, which is quite unusual for Venice. They were constructed this way because the ghetto was a small confined area, and vertical expansion was the only option.

After you take a look in the nice Jewish bakery displaying all sorts of goodies, continue walking until you reach Campo del Ghetto Nov, where, near the Scuola Grande Tedesca, you’ll find the Jewish Museum of Venice. The museum is located in the main section of the Ghetto and it contains information on the history of Venice’s Jewish community.

After visiting to the museum, stop by the three splendid synagogues in Campo del Ghetto Novo (next to the museum) and then continue towards the other two in Campiello delle Scuole, in the Old Ghetto. In the 18th century, the ghetto had as many as nine synagogues to serve the city’s three “foreign populations” (German, Levantine and Sephardic).

I love to go here, sit on one of the stone benches, and be surrounded by trees, children playing in the campo, people praying and a few tourists sitting in the bars drinking a spritz. The atmosphere is so relaxing— and so completely far away from the crowds of Saint Mark’s Square. I highly recommend making the Jewish Ghetto part of your itinerary in Venice.

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A trace from the Golden Age

The Skinny Bridge was built in 1691, toward the end of the Dutch Golden Age. According to a popular legend, the bridge was constructed with funding from the wealthy Mager sisters, who lived on opposite sides of the Amstel River. With the Magere Brug built, the two sisters could visit one another with just a short jaunt over the bridge.

Sound far-fetched? Locals agree, and claim that the bridge’s name comes from the fact that it was originally so skinny that two people passing each other struggled. (“Mager” means “thin” in Dutch.) Despite renovations to widen it, the bridge retains an antique look, reminding us of a time rich with romanticism.

The bascule design, with a middle platform that divides and opens like a seesaw, only enhances its adorable charm. The bridge’s white-painted wooden body and giant rolo chains are an attractive sight by day, and the 1,200 white bulbs reflecting on the dancing water below carry on its grace through the night.

As a slightly off-color aside, the bridge was the site of a protest during the 1960s. Demanding public toilets for ladies, women marched on the Magere Brug, lifted their skirts and “demonstrated” their feelings. Needless to say, the women got their public toilets, though they were closed soon after due to vagrants using their facilities as sleeping spots.

The great location

The Skinny Bridge stretches across the Amstel River and rests between the Keizergracht and Prinsengracht canals. It’s a great spot to relax and munch on lunch while taking in the divine city view. One side overlooks the Waterlooplein and the lively Muntplein, while the other side reveals the Amstel’s journey beyond the city river.

The view by night is just as spectacular, and it’s what made me fall in love with this bridge four years ago. An Amsterdam newbie, I was cycling home one evening and heading full speed toward the Skinny Bridge. With my headphones blasting a favorite tune, I pedaled across its path and couldn’t decide which view was most breathtaking. In an act of indecisiveness, I threw up my hands, coasted across and declared my love for Amsterdam. (As a bonus, I learned I could ride my bike without handlebars.)

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Book browsing along the Seine.

Getting there

The Saint-Michel Metro stop will allow for a little bouquiniste browsing as you make your way. Along with a book, pick up a sandwich at a nearby boulangerie or even a compact but oh so filling crêpe fromage! I’m not the first to propose the tip of the Île de la Cité as the perfect spot for a little pic-a-necking, and I certainly won’t be the last.

The bridge: Pont Neuf

Still curvaceous and fabulous at 403-years-old, the “New Bridge” is actually the oldest standing bridge in Paris. Created by Henri IV, it was the first to be built without houses or shops (i.e., “firetraps”) lining it.

As the king of the original urban re-do, Henri also banned timber construction throughout the city, promoted symmetry in its public architecture, connected the Tuileries with the Louvre, and created Paris’s first city square! Thank Henri’s Place des Vosges for getting the party started in the Marais. Even today, this very stylish square is still a prime place to see and be seen.

Henri IV, avec cheval

As you promenade across the bridge, stop and cool your heels in one of its nook-like bastions. Originally these niches were created for the safety of pedestrians seeking to avoid being run over by passing carriages clattering madly by.

Jolly Green Giant: Statue of Henri IV

The bridge cuts across the island connecting the Right and Left Banks of the river. In its very center, you’ll find a huge bronze statue of Henri IV on horseback. Some folks consider the square around it the very center of Western Civilization. I don’t know about that, but I can vouch for it as a great place to make momentous decisions. See, Cheapos, this is where my paramour proposed to me! (I accepted.)

You’ll find the King’s square directly below. Just follow the steps.

Le Square du Vert-Galant

What’s in a name? Le Square du Vert-Galant

For the love of vitality, admiration, and gossip, Parisians gave the little tear-drop-shaped park the flamboyant King’s nickname, “Vert-Galant,” or “Gay Blade,” since he was larger than life, compassionate, and wildly loved. Mad about music, wine and women, Henri would horse around here with his friends, entertainers, and favorite mistress, Gabrielle d’Estrée. As he liked to say, “Great cooking and great wines make a paradise on earth!”

And speaking of big appetites, this is also where Hemingway relaxed with books, wine, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “and often they made excellent catches of the dace-like fish that were called goujon. They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.” For more park ideas, read about our seven favorite parks.

Tip of the Île de la Cité

The tip of the Ile de la Cite

Just beyond the le Square du Vert-Galant, you’ll find the downstream tip of the Île de la Cité. Pick a spot on the stone ledge and then settle yourself down for some smooth bateaux-cruise watching from underneath the weeping willow. I’ve been told that this tree is always the first in Paris to leaf out each spring! Notre-Dame, the Louvre, and the (currently closed) grand magasin Samaritaine pop up like a panoramic all-star photo shoot surrounding you.

Clipping from Hemingway, Cheapos, “There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.”

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Luckily, the Giardino dell’Orticultura (Horiculture Gaden) offers some much-needed greenery not far from the city center. So let me share one of my favorite spots, where you not only get some open space, but you also get a great view of the city you left behind. As an added bonus, all this beauty is available for free!

The 19th-century greenhouse

Florence underwent a huge transformation in the late 19th century. The city was modernized with grand boulevards, large open piazzas and equestrian statues. During the same period, this park was created to reserve a space for expositions of exotic plant life.

Nowadays the plants aren’t so exotic, but there are still fields of daisies sprinkled in the green grass. The area is divided into two sections by the unfortunate placement of the railroad. The lower section includes large fountains, small fields, benches, a small playground and a 19th-century replica of a traditional Italian “loggia” (a covered open-air pavilion with decorated arches).

The dragon fountain

The most impressive feature of this garden is the greenhouse, made entirely of glass and shining metal. It is currently (as of April 2010) being restored to its former glory, though it is still visible. It’s an especially lovely sight when the sun is shining.

The upper section of the garden is accessible by a bridge running over the train tracks. (You can also access it from farther up the hill on Via Trieste.) This section is situated on an incline, and the height offers great views of the city.

As you climb the stairs, take a good look at the dragon fountain made of pieces of glass, stone and bottles. (It brings to mind a similar fountain by Gaudì at the Parc Guëll in Barcelona.) Once you reach the top, you’ll find benches where you can relax and really enjoy the view and the fresh air. This is one of my favorite spots in Florence, so it’s worth the trip to check it out!

The view from the top

Giardino dell’Orticultura (Horticulture Garden)
Address: Via Bolognese near Ponte Rosso
Transportation: #25 bus (from Piazza San Marco to Pratolino) or on foot from Piazza della Libertà

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A network of leafy lanes and avenues perched on a barely perceptible hill (“berg”) just northeast of the center, this district offers such a perfect mix of cafés, restaurants, boutiques and charming architecture that it sometimes has a “this-is-too-good-to-true”, movie-set vibe to it. If Woody Allen were to make a film in Berlin, this is where he’d shoot it.

“Prenzlberg” emerged as a bustling, working class industrial hub in the 19th century—and still has the rows upon rows of (now-restored) tenement houses, complete with ornate stucco details and flower-bedecked balconies, to prove it. Also adding a historic touch are the restored and repurposed red brick factories studding the area. (The Kulturbrauerei cultural center, a former beer brewery, is an essential stop on a tour of the district.)

Ideal city living in the Kollwitzkiez

One century later, the district gained fame as the home base of East Germany’s poets, novelists, dissidents and intellectuals, who gathered around Köllwitzplatz, a triangular park named after the leftist artist and anti-war protestor, Kathe Köllwitz. (Her work is honored over in western Berlin’s Kathe Köllwitz Museum.) The district was grimy then, but the apartment buildings had survived the war relatively unscathed.

Fast forward to this century, and an over-sized bronze statue of Kollwitz is still watching over the park. But now, instead of gray, rundown façades, she faces swing sets and awning-shaded tables marking the cafés and bars along Kollwitz Strasse, Knaack Strasse and Wörther Strasse, the district’s three most genteel streets.

On Saturdays, a market, the Markt am Kollwitzplatz, takes over the square. Overflowing with gourmet food and hand-crafted clothing, it makes this corner of Berlin an urban paradise. After a stroll through the market, it’s practically mandatory to stop at Kaffeehaus SowohlalsAuch, a café-bakery famous for its cakes. Sit outside, even if it’s a bit chilly—blankets draped over the chairs will keep you warm.

This idyllic square is just one indication that this once-rundown neighborhood has morphed into the reunified city’s most appealing “Szeneviertel” (scene). Some Berliners grumble that well-to-do yuppies—many of whom add stylish little tykes to their brood—transformed the once-bohemian, left-leaning district into a pretentious playground for affluent, western German transplants, but the area retains a touch of alluring grittiness, especially along wide avenues like Schönhauser Allee, Prenzlauer Allee and Danziger Strasse.

A laid-back itinerary

The best way to tour the district is to start at the U-Bahn Senerfelder Platz. Walk north on Kollwitz Strasse to reach Kollwitzplatz. Continue north onto Knaack Strasse to reach the Kulturbrauerei (nearby, on Schönhauser Allee 44a, underneath the U-bahn tracks, is the famed Currywurst kiosk, Konnopke’s).

If you have time, keep heading north, across Danziger Strasse, to explore the mellow streets surrounding another classic Prenzlauer Berg square, Helmholzplatz. Bordered by Lynchener Strasse, Raumer Strasse, Duncker Strasse and Lette Strasse, it’s well stocked with shops and café-restaurants.

In addition to the Kulturbraueri, the district’s Cheapo-friendly sights include the redbrick Wasserturm (Watertower, between Knaack Strasse und Belforter Strasse), which served as one of the city’s first concentration camps, and the Jüdischer Friedhof (Jewish Cemetery, Schönhauser Allee 22-23), one of Germany’s largest historic Jewish resting places. The Zeiss Grosplantarium ( Prenzlauer Allee 80) offers inexpensive tours of the stars.

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Foam holds a roster of spectacular collections by world-famous photographers past and present, though its discreet Keizersgracht location keeps the place relatively peaceful. Its interior is modern and inventive, and the gallery size is manageable: It can take less than an hour to go through the entire museum.

Bresson’s “Behind Saint-Lazare Station”

As a college undergrad, the one photographer I remembered from my “easy A”  photo class was Henri Cartier-Bresson. Five years later, I ran into his ability to capture the “decisive moment” when visiting Foam. This made me an instant Foam fan, and the museum just continues to impress.

Last year’s Richard Avedon exhibit delivered a spot-on portrayal of the innovative portrait and fashion photographer. I admit that I didn’t originally recognize his name, but after studying work displayed ever so elegantly around Foam, I’ll never again forget Avedon and his stunning shots. Nor will I forget turning the corner and seeing pop star Beyoncé gazing at a Marylin Monroe portrait.

Beyoncé! See? You don’t have to be a pro photographer or know-it-all shutterbug to enjoy Foam’s exhibitions. The laidback vibe at this museum allows visitors to take their time and explore the meaning of reflection and self-perception. For photo connoisseurs, Foam offers a private library full of photo books and classic albums. These are available to peruse by appointment.

An added bonus is the museum’s affordable admission charge. While big-name museums can charge €15 to €20 without blinking, Foam charges a more manageable €8 for adults and €5.50 for students and seniors.

I absolutely love Foam as a museum. The Van Gogh Museum, Rembrandt House, and Rijksmuseum are obvious city pearls, but don’t forget the city’s smaller museums, galleries, and studios located along the canals (“grachts”).

Foam
Keizersgracht 609
From Dam Square, take trams 16, 24 or 25 and stop at Keizersgracht.

Open daily from 10 AM to 6 PM
Thursdays and Fridays from 10 AM to 9 PM
Closed: Jan. 1st, April 30th, and June 21 to 24

Admission
Adults: €8,00
Students/65+: €5,50
city card/ cjp: €4,00
Club, Fan, Fund: free
children under 12: free
ICOM: free
Museum card / I amsterdam card: free

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History has it that a castle was founded here in the first half of the 10th century, and thanks to its high rocky location overlooking the Vltava River, enjoyed a period of importance for roughly 50 years. The area is now mostly green space with walking paths and beautiful views of the city, including the more famed Prague castle. Mythologically speaking, Vyšehrad is also the spot where Princess Libuše apparently foretold the future of Prague’s greatness.

Statues in the park

Highlights and landmarks

Strolling through, you’ll spot some interesting landmarks. One of the first will be St. Martin’s Rotunda. Built in the second half of the 11th century, it’s not only the largest rotunda in Prague, but also the city’s oldest complete Romanesque building. There’s been a church at Vyšehrad since the 14th century, but the current one, the Church of St. Peter and Paul, was built in the early 1900s.

Slavin cemetery

Next door is Slavín, Prague’s “pop” cemetery. It was designed in the mid-19th century as a final resting place for Prague’s famous writers, scientists, artists, and the like. Prominent bodies laid to rest here include the writer Karel Capek, artist Alfons Mucha and composers Bedrich Smetana and Antonín Dvorák. The headstones and memorials are quite interesting and it’s definitely worth a wander.

On the south side of the church, you’ll spot a large green expanse dotted with four statues. These depict mythological heroes from Czech history. If you come across three huge granite slabs, take a photo. According to legend, these slabs were thrown through the roof of the church by Lucifer, made angry by an insubordinate cleric. They’re now called the “Devil’s Pillars.”

The view from Vysehrad

Aside from the church and monuments, there are a couple cafes, but more importantly a huge beer garden that is filled with locals, families, and dogs at the weekends. A cool wooden playground makes it a great place to allow kids to run and be free for an afternoon.

How to get there

Vyšehrad is listed in nearly all the guidebooks and there’s easy metro access (the stop is on the red metro line C and is named “Vyšehrad.”) It’s about a 10-minute walk from the metro station.

The views from all sides are amazing; you’ll probably spot from above many of the landmarks you’ve already been to down below. I predict it will be a highlight to your Prague visit.

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Related: 25 Free things to do and see in Paris

Here are a few Theadorable insider tips, surefire to make your tour of my favorite “grand magasin” a breeze. Why, it’s in the bag!

A sweeping view of the “produits de beauté”

Access

Make your entrance at the junction of rue Mogador and boulevard Haussmann. For stamina’s sake, pack a candy bar. You’ll find complimentary water and restrooms on every floor. (Tip: You can avoid the crowd by shopping on weekday mornings.)

Level 0—Welcome Area and Accessories

Here you’ll find a welcome desk, stocked with store maps. This is also where you’ll find out about all the special promotions. Don’t be daunted by the throngs of people. Like a Mont Blanc climb, the mob will dissipate with altitude as you head up. Keep both your wits and your bag in grip.

YSL under the dome

Stay focused and fast track it to the cosmetics and perfume area, located in the middle of the store. As you make your way, ogle the handbags, scarves, and hats to your heart’s desire, but don’t touch. Once a silk Kenzo scarf makes its soft and silky contact, you’ll never go Cheapo again. Yes, I have been there.

Level 0, Part II—Scents and Sensibility under the dome

Once you’ve reached the intricate maze of “produits de beauté,”  take time to smell the (sometimes synthetic bottled) roses, while gazing up at the stained glass “coupole” (domed ceiling). Installed in 1912, this Belle Epoch beauty with its Byzantine twist has never failed to bring me to tears or goose bumps. But if you’re like me, you’ll soon wipe your tears and then try out the new scents and colors by French classics like Guerlain, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Clarins. Free primping just got easier. (Tip: Watch out for uneven flooring and extension-cord coverings.)

Shoes along the stairs

Level Minus 1 (basement)—Shoes

Hold on to your hat, Cinderella! Make a detour downstairs to the brand-spanking-new and oh-so-tempting shoe zone, shining with 12,000 designer shoes and LED lighting. It’s the world’s largest shoe selection! Take the marble stairwell nestled in between the Gucci and Prada showrooms at ground level. On your way down, get an eyeful of the shoes exhibited in their little glass boxes. Lose your mind or just your glasses? Lost and found is also located on this level.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s swanky digs

Level 1—Designer Fashion

Now, on to the first floor above ground level. Jump off the escalator, and take a quick spin through the fantastic, high-ticketed (but well-worth a window-lick) showroom of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Also lean over the Art Nouveau balconies for a rather spectacular aerial view of the perfume and cosmetic booths below. The logos were installed specifically for this bird’s-eye view. You’ll find plush seating, complimentary water and a €1 coffee machine by the escalator.

Level 2—Contemporary Fashion

Here you find additional seating, more free water, a Coca-Cola Light machine, and Parisian closet staples like Kookai, Naf Naf, and Zara. The view keeps getting better with each floor.

A leg up under the dome

Level 3—Seductive Fashion

Yes, Cheapos, you are in France, so this is what the lingerie and hosiery is officially called, and yes, it possesses the alluring goods to back up the name! Don’t forget to take yet another peek of the action below.

Level 4—Life’s a Beach

Happily, the crowd starts to thin out here on the bathing suit level, so take advantage of the empty seating, more complimentary water, and the photo booth. Did I say photo booth? Yes! Why not? On this level, you’ll finally earn your first view of the exterior peak of the dome.

Level 5—Toy Store

Hello Kitty, goodbye heart! Uh oh. Need I say more?

Level 6—Eiffel Towers, brides, and books—oh, my

Break time under the dome

Here you’ll find the city’s largest souvenir shop (who’d-a-thunk-it?), bridal gowns, and one of my favorite bookstores in Paris. Plus: wide designer tables, lanky stools, and red stylish lamps lining the large windows, with views to a kill (apologies to Duran Duran). Kick off your heels, troll the arts section, and grab a book and stool. Your back and feet will thank you!

Level 7—Vogue under the big top

Galeries Lafayette also offers free fashion shows, lit by a disco ball. They’re usually held during the spring and fall seasons. You can reserve a ticket merely by writing welcome@galerieslayfayette.com and asking for one. (Tip: arrive early to get a front row seat worthy of Anna Wintour.)

A view of the Eiffel Tower

Level 8—Up on the roof

This is my favorite city-gazing hot spot. Arrayed for your panoramic pleasure, you’ll find the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra Garnier, and Sacré Coeur. So commandeer a ledge and recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture, dramatic cloud formations, sunsets, and non-stop people-watching!

Cheapos, repeat after me, “Non, je ne regrette rien!”

Want to know about other places to shop? Read about our 10 favorite shopping districts in Paris and tips to save big on shopping in Paris.

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For an ultimate Dutch time out in Amsterdam, head to Café Koosje. From coffee to apple pie with whipped cream, the place warms its patrons with cups of culture and a charming ambiance hard to find elsewhere. Plus, the Jewish Historical Museum, Botanical Gardens, and Waterlooplein are all within walking distance.

Koosje won my heart on a rainy afternoon as I sipped an Irish coffee and observed with amusement as a baby grand piano swung in the air by a rope. (A man across the street was moving into the top floor, and as Dutch flats are inconveniently narrow, hoisting a piano to the top floor was the only possible, unthinkable and [in]convenient option.)

But Café Koosje can be fun for all. Families burst in fresh from visits at the nearby Artis Zoo, and locals are lured in by the classy lunchtime scene. Scarlet awnings and curtains round out the vintage décor, though the long bar and mirrored liquor cabinet lend the space an airy vibe. The café’s interior is lit by cozy candlelight, with parlor-like windows along the front wall inviting customers to gaze out.

Koosje is a prime people-watching location, with everything from bike quarrels to nearby customers slurping on Chocomel delights providing entertainment for your eyes. Outside, patrons can choose between the covered patio or the wooden benches that wrap around the building.

The extras here are spectacular because Koosje is Dutch: Coffee always comes with cookies, “appletaart” comes with whipped crème, and “toastis” come with ketchup. Cool music posters and  papers in English and Dutch are readily available. While servers breeze back and forth holding the blackboard dinner menu, smart travelers indulge in the relaxed vibe and soothing atmosphere of a café open to serving all passersby.

Café Koosje
Plantage Middenlaan 37
website

Sun. to Thurs. 9 AM– 1 AM
Fri. 9 AM – 3 AM
Sat. 9 AM– 2 AM

Typical prices

Main courses: €11.50 – €18.50
Apple pie: €4.50
Coffee: €2.00
Fresh mint tea: €2.30
Beer: €2.20
Wine: €3.00

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