Le Bon Marché was not only the very first department store in Paris (in fact, one of the world’s first) but it also changed up the rules of retail, set waves of shopping frenzies in motion, and acted as muse to artists and writers of the avant-garde set.

So Cheapos, a tribute we will pay!

A view from the Métro

Getting there

Le Bon Marché
38, rue de Sèvres
Métro: Sèvres-Babylone (lines 12 or 10)

Tip: I recommend staying on track by taking the number 12 Métro, because this line snakes through other popular shopping meccas like Abbesses, Saint-Germain (Métro Rue du Bac), Boulevard Haussmann (Métro Saint-Lazare) and Rue de Rennes.

But watch your step when exiting at Sèvres-Babylone because the mere sight of the “Le Bon Marché” sign atop the old building has never failed to make this Cheapo’s knees begin to buckle.

Back in the day

“The cathedral of modern commerce!” is how Émile Zola neatly described Le Bon Marché (“the good deal”) in his novel Le Bonheur des Dames. The store was the first to launch fixed pricing, welcome stations staffed with English-speaking personal shoppers, and self-service. Soon faire du lèche-vitrine (“window licking”) became all the rage.

Andrée Putman's chic escalators

Though now taken for granted, at the time, its newfangled open-door retail concept meant that even prostitutes could shop here with ease. Both seductive and alluring, Bon Marché’s open aisles of enticing wares were often blamed for bankrupting families and inciting spontaneous shoplifting.

Fine features

Initially designed by Gustave Eiffel and Paul Sédille (who beautified Printemps, too), Bon Marché has maintained her radiant glow by getting a little work done now and then. It’s no secret that Andrée Putman (also credited with the extreme makeover of Guerlain’s flagship on the Champs-Élysées and the swanky interiors of Air France’s late, great Concord jet) recently updated the store’s look with sets of crisscrossing escalators. Surrounded by slender columns, the moving stairs’ geometric patterns smartly echo the skylight’s square glass panes.

Oh, the brands you’ll see

Though no longer considered quite the palace of “good deals” it was back in the time of Picasso and Hemingway (who bought his knock-off suits here), Le Bon Marché is still the place to window-gawk and trend-spot. You’ll find classics like Balenciaga, Lanvin, and Sonia Rykiel, along with funky designs by Comme des Garcons, Paul & Joe and Sandro.

On the ground level, be wooed by “Le Théatre de la Beauté,” which specializes in just-launched, innovative, and difficult-to-find beauty products. So prior to your visit, do a little research and pack a wish list! Make your friends at home green with envy.

Then, fortify yourself

After your high browsing, you do have a few Cheapo options!

1. Eat

In a separate part of Bon Marché, La Grande Epicerie de Paris (the world’s largest international food labyrinth) seems to have everything to satisfy every taste bud, both domestic and foreign. Wine and fromage tastings are often held on Fridays and Saturdays, while the Babylon Garden is just in front of the store, so stock up and prepare to nosh like there’s no tomorrow!

At La Grande Epicerie de Paris

2. Shop

After your picnic, get your bargain garb on at Zara, situated kitty-corner from Bon Marché. Find the trends you’ve just spotted at a fraction of the cost. Your pocketbook and conscience will both thank you.

3. Pray

But if your conscience is still troubled, just behind Bon Marché you’ll find the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal. Here’s a chance to balance out your mortal sins (like lust, gluttony, envy, to name a few) with a visit to Saint Catherine Labouré’s shrine.

The lady Herself is on full view in a glass case at the front of the sanctuary. Among other things, she’s credited with designing one of the most popular of saints’ medals, which are available on-site. The shop also carries a collection of cards.

Snipping from “Bon Marché Weather,” a poem by Gertrude “Lady Dada” Stein:

“There are a very great many things everybody is buying. There are a very great many things you are buying. There are a very great many things they are buying. There are a very great many things I am buying.”

She lived just a few blocks away, so I’m sure she was speaking from experience.

Smooth sailing, Cheapos!

The post Paris: Summer shopping at Le Bon Marché appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

1. Twinkle: Bright lights, dig the city

First, take in the lights with a brisk stroll around town, and then warm up with “un vin chaud” or crack open a toasty crème brûlée out on the terrace of a lively bar or café. Forget about the elements. The glowing overhead braziers, impromptu sing-alongs, and people-watching will keep you warm. For the city’s official street-illumination map, click here.

Taking in the festive scene at a café

2. Tower: Bon Anniversaire, Madame Eiffel!

Continuing to celebrate her 120th birthday in style, la Tour Eiffel is not just sparkling for the usual five minutes on the hour, but she’s also encoring with a 12-minute super-cool LED light show nightly at 8, 9, 10, and 11 PM. My favorite spots for tower-gazing are just below Sacré Coeur at Rue Azaïs and rue Saint-Eleuthère, and beside the Palais de Tokyo.

Breaking News! For the first time ever, advance tickets for Eiffel Tower visits are now available online! Check out their booking site.

3. Window Shopping: Here comes the Hotstepper

Promenade up and down Boulevard Haussmann, while getting an eyeful of the grand magasins’ “vitrines de Noël” (holiday windows). This year, Chanel and Dior outfitted Printemps’ Russian-inspired windows, while rabbits, dollies, and bears (oh, my) cavort next door at Galeries Lafayette in tableaux by designers Gaultier, Kenzo, and Marc Jacobs.

The one-ring Cirque d’hiver Bouglione

Also, let’s not forget the smaller shops! Often restaurants, pâtisseries, boutiques, and even pharmacies hire artists to create whimsical murals. And keep your eyes peeled for neighborhood “concours de décorations de vitrines” (window decorating contests).

4. Holiday Circus: Time flies!

Treat yourself to an old-time spectacle at the one-ring Cirque d’hiver Bouglione (Metro: Oberkampf). Just think—Degas, Seurat, and Toulouse-Lautrec sat on these same red-velvet seats! Celebrating the 150-year anniversary of the flying trapeze, invented in 1859 by dashing acrobat Jules Léotard (thank him for creating the garment too!), this year the Bouglione circus family is paying homage to its roots with a “Festif” show, jammed-packed with traditional acts.

Tip: The seats in the very last row are just €10—but it’s worth every cent to be up close.

5. Ice Skating: Watch that figure!

Prepare for the 2010 Olympic Winter Games by taking a few spins around the ice rinks in front of the Hotel de Ville or Gare Montparnasse. Let Johnny be-Weir! The admission is free. Skate rental is €5, cash only. Know your European shoe size numbers. There’s no charge for sideline watching.

The decadent displays at l’épiceries Fauchon

6. Concert: The bells are ringing!

During the holidays, you’ll find no shortage of Vivaldi, Mozart, Chopin, Lizst, or Bach! Time is going to be your only issue. So pick up a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. In it you’ll find a listing of free concerts and other holiday events. (Read about classical music discounts.)

Why, oh, why is l’église de la Madeleine my choice for classical concerts? Because, Cheapos, the tantalizing window displays of l’épiceries Fauchon are near!

7. Christmas Markets: What’s good for the goose

During the holidays, the winter markets, with their quaint boxes, tents, and chalets, are found in nearly every square. Follow the smell of “chaud les marrons” (chestnuts roasting on an open fire!). This is also the place to grab a quick hearty meal. Try the Alsatian “choucroute garnie” or the Belgian waffles. You’ll also find delectable regional specialties such as foie gras, honey, and champagne.

Tip: After marketing at the Saint-Germain-des-Prés Winter Village, meander over to the Bar du Marché at 75, rue de Seine, and clank a few with locals! Look for the candy-striped awning.

Happy Holidays, Cheapos! (And special thanks to Jessica Hines for the Cirque d’hiver photograph!)

The post 7 tips for spending the Christmas holiday in Paris appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Check out the atrium.

Now sporting a chic modern look that nevertheless manages to pay homage to her expansive Belle Époque days, Printemps’ new three-level atrium is finally open to the public. Window lickers (as the French call window shoppers—”lèche-vitrine”) of the world, unite.

Heads up, Cheapos! A special unveiling of the store’s newly-restored façade, along with its notorious holiday window displays, happens on November 12, 2009. And there are still more wonders are yet to come!

Équipe (“team”) effort

On the case is the Canadian architectural firm Yabu Pushelberg. (Toronto duo George Yabu and Glenn Pushelberg were also responsible for New York City’s Tiffany & Co. Wall Street, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman’s impressive good looks.) No holds were barred, as roughly €70 million have been poured into Printemps’ extensive interior and exterior revamping. The rest of the project’s completion is slated for spring 2010.

A rather large bag.

Like a dream

Meanwhile you’ll be dazzled by the recently installed super-cool (and eco-friendly) LED lighting system that illuminates and opens up the heart of the store: the center atrium. Resembling an oversized Lucite box, this pleasing eye candy is decked out in slick marble, sleek bands of iced chrome, and live trees that sprout multi-colored handbags. Ma joie!

Jutting out between the bustling, zigzagging escalators are towering cubbyholes (three stories high) stuffed with shiny fab accessories, just enough out of reach to tantalize. But one can always dream, can’t one?

Don’t skip the loo, my darlings

Check out “the first luxury public toilets” by Point WC (as touted on their website). One euro buys you private seating in a water closet lit by rose-colored lights, and handsomely stocked with shocking fluorescent toilet tissues in pinks, greens, and blues.

Skip to the loo!

You can’t miss the €1800 price tag for the commode, but happily you don’t have to buy it to experience it! Cosmetics for touch-ups, souvenir rolls of toilet tissue, and even beverages are available at the Point WC welcome desk.

Yes, I know, life is good–and with flattering lighting to boot. So make a beeline! Stopping by the loo has never been more fun or stylish! (BTW, you’ll also find a Point WC at the Carrousel du Louvre.)

The post Paris: A tour of the remodeled Printemps department store appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.