church of santa maria in trastevere – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Rome: How to spend the day in Trastevere https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-how-to-spend-the-day-in-trastevere.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-how-to-spend-the-day-in-trastevere.html#comments Fri, 29 Apr 2011 12:14:20 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=18091 Rome wasn’t built in a day… and you certainly can’t uncover all of its treasures in a day, either. But something you can do is uncover the city’s beauties neighborhood by neighborhood, devoting a day to each one. Which better neighborhood to start off with than the charming quartiere of Trastevere! Most locals consider Trastevere, » Read more

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Rome wasn’t built in a day… and you certainly can’t uncover all of its treasures in a day, either. But something you can do is uncover the city’s beauties neighborhood by neighborhood, devoting a day to each one. Which better neighborhood to start off with than the charming quartiere of Trastevere!

Most locals consider Trastevere, which literally means “across the Tiber,” to be the most authentic and charming part of Rome. This despite the neighborhood’s gentrification, due to its increasing popularity with American and international students and tourists.

It’s no wonder that everyone wants a piece of this picturesque part of the city. You’ll find yourself charmed by its winding alleyways and cobblestone streets, many of which are pedestrian only. And you’ll be delighted by its traditional mom-and-pop trattorias and the abundant array of restaurants and cafés from which to choose.

Here’s my guide to spending the perfect day in Trastevere. Get started early!

9 a.m. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Start off your day at the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere by having a cappuccino and cornetto (croissant) at any one of the cafés that surround the square. If you start off early, before the commuter crowd gets off to school and work, you may just have the piazza to yourself.

It’s not hard to guess what makes this piazza so wonderful. By day, you’ll witness locals and tourists alike gazing up at the golden mosaics of the Santa Maria in Trastevere church glimmering in the sun. The Basilica, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is also one of the oldest churches in Rome.

By night, this piazza is a totally different scene. The piazza livens up with its street performers, vendors, diners and a whole lot of people watching!

10:00 a.m. Piazza San Calisto

Next, head on down to Piazza San Callisto where you can witness locals shopping for fresh fruits and vegetables at the mercato. It’d be a good idea to pick up some fruit for yourself here to take with you on your tour.

10:30 a.m. Shopping or church

If it’s a Sunday, you’ll definitely want to hit up Rome’s largest mercato delle pulci (“flea market”) at Porta Portese (Via di Porta Portese). There’s nothing like spending a few hours scouring this street market for deals. Bat those pretty eyelashes of yours and ask the vendor for a “piccolo sconto” (a small discount) and you’re bound to get him to slash his prices by a euro or two. The street market feels miles long, with stalls and stalls of second-hand clothes, accessories, antiques, paintings and furniture. Just be mindful of your wallet and purse, as the later it gets, the more popular it becomes with pick-pockets.

If it’s not Sunday, you’ll want to head over to the Santa Cecilia in Trastevere Church (Piazza Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, 22) for some great frescoes. In particular, pay close attention to the Last Judgment fresco painted by Pietro Cavallini. Another striking thing to marvel is the sculpture of Saint Cecilia, after whom the church is named. The white marble statue shows the saint with her head half-severed and lies just below the main altar.

Noon. Lunch at Da Enzo

Da Enzo (Via dei Vascellari, 29) is a hole-in-the-wall restaurant with only about 10 tables or so. But that’s what makes it so good. A definite must-try for appetizers are the carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes). For pasta, try one of their classics: arrabbiata (spicy tomato), amatriciana (tomato, onion and pancetta) or carbonara (egg and pancetta). Throw in a bottle of their house wine and some tiramisù, and you’ll come out paying roughly €25 per person. Not bad for such a great meal!

3 p.m. Museum of Rome in Trastevere

After lunch, whip back around to the other side of Viale Trastevere to visit the Museum of Rome in Trastevere (Piazza Sant’Egidio). The museum dates back to 1601 and is located in a historic building that was once a convent. In 1970, the building became a place for preserving and showcasing Roman folklore, poetry, dialect and traditions. Later it underwent a facelift and reopened in 2000 as the Musuem of Rome in Trastevere, which today hosts exhibitions (many dedicated to photography), shows and conferences.

6 p.m. Window shopping

Spend an hour strolling and gazing at the boutiques around the Santa Maria in Trastevere area.

7 p.m. Aperitivo

When 7 p.m. rolls around, Romans head for the bars that offer “aperitivo.” Aperitivo is sort of like an American “happy hour” without the 2-for-1 drink specials. Instead, with the purchase of a drink (usually around €7-10), there’s a buffet of finger food for you to feast your appetite on.

My pick for Aperitivo, Freni e Frizioni (“Shocks and Brakes”), located at Via del Politeama, 4, is a mechanic shop-turned trendy aperitivo hangout. Just around the corner is another good spot, Friends (Piazza Trilussa) where hipsters tend to hang out at night in the piazza.

9 p.m. Dinner

My pick for dinner is Dar Poeta, located at Vicolo del Bologna, 45. Some of the best wood-oven pizza can be found here. The amatriciana and fior di zucca pizzas are a must try!

Have extra time?

In case you have more time in the neighborhood, some other places to check out are: Villa Farnesina, Gianicolo Hill, the Church of San Pietro in Montorio and the Church of San Francesco a Ripa.

Your favorite spots in Trastevere?

What did we miss? Have a favorite place to visit in Trastevere? Tell us about it in the comments section.

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Rome: 10 things to do for less than €10 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-10-things-to-do-for-less-than-10.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-10-things-to-do-for-less-than-10.html#comments Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:33:10 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=17589 By Nicole Arriaga in Rome— Even though Rome is fast becoming one of the most expensive cities in Europe, there are still plenty of memorable things to do that won’t put a big strain on your budget. Here are my top ten Roman activities that cost less than €10. 1. Galleria Borghese: €8.50 Piazzale del » Read more

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By Nicole Arriaga in Rome—

Even though Rome is fast becoming one of the most expensive cities in Europe, there are still plenty of memorable things to do that won’t put a big strain on your budget. Here are my top ten Roman activities that cost less than €10.

1. Galleria Borghese: €8.50
Piazzale del Museo Borghese, 5
Tel.: +39 06 32 810
Web site
Open: Tuesdays- Sundays 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Located inside Rome’s “Central Park,” the Villa Borghese is a lovely museum that holds a vast collection of 17th and 18th-century artwork. Feast on masterpieces by Bernini, Caravaggio and Raphael. The villa was built for Cardinal Sciopione Borghese and is itself quite a beauty. When you’ve had enough art you can go for a passeggiata in the park. (That’s always free.)

Castel Sant'Angelo

2. Castel Sant’Angelo: €5.50
Lungotevere Castello, 50
Tel.: +39 06.6819111
Web site
Open: Tuesdays-Sundays 9 a.m.-7:30 p.m.

At first glance, the overbearing structure that looms over the Tiber River near the Vatican seems to be just another enormous castle. However, the history of Castel Sant’Angelo is more complicated than that. It was built by the emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself in 135 AD. The monument was later transformed into a fortress that guarded the Vatican and became a Papal refuge for nearly 1,000 years. Inside the castle you’ll find a spectacular showcase of battlefield weaponry, including cannons, cannon balls and dungeons, too. Not a bad deal for just €5.50!

3. Dome of St. Peter’s Basilica: €5-€7
Piazza San Pietro
Tel.: +39 06.0608
Web site
Hours: October 1 – March 31: daily, 8 a.m. – 5 p.m.; April 1 – September 30: daily, 8 a.m. – 6 p.m.

Sure, a bird’s-eye view of the Eternal City can be found from any number of rooftop terraces around town. But there’s something extra special about taking in the view from the tip-top of St. Peter’s dome. There are two ways to get up there: your feet or an elevator. For €5 you can huff and puff your way up 500 steps to the top. Or you can ride the elevator up for €7.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

4. Fountain-hopping frenzy: Free

Did someone say free? One of the most amazing things about Rome for budget travelers is the amount of art, architecture and sculptures that can be admired for niente. When it comes to marvelous fountains, Rome has plenty to go around. They’re just as breathtaking by day as they are by night. Here are some of my personal favorites:

Fontana del Tritone (Triton Fountain): Located at the center of the bustling Piazza Barberini where traffic flows in and out of the Centro Storico. The fountain was designed by Bernini in 1642. Also worth checking out is the Fontana delle Api (Fountain of the Bees) nearby on Via Veneto.

Fontana delle Naiadi (Fountain of the Naiads): My goodness what a piazza (della Repubblica)! Albeit, seeing it by day doesn’t do it justice, as the the fountain only becomes more beautiful when illuminated at night.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers): What makes Piazza Navona so beautiful (apart from its picturesque cafes) are the three beautiful fountains that dominate the square. My favorite is the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, the central and largest of the three. Designed by the great Bernini, the fountain represents the rivers of the four continents known at that time: the Nile (symbol of Africa), the Ganges (symbol of Asia), the Danube (representing Europe) and the Rio de la Plata (representing America).

Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain): The mother of all fountains, it’s also world-famous for wish-makers. Legend has it that if you toss a coin into the fountain, a return to Rome is guaranteed! It also made famous appearances for movies like Three Coins in a Fountain and Fellini’s La Dolce Vita.

5. Ostia Antica: €6.50 + two €1 bus tickets
Viale dei Romagnoli, 717
Tel.: +39 06 5635 8099
Web site
Hours: November-February, Tues-Sun 8:30 a.m-6 p.m.; March, Tues-Sun 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; April-October, Tues-Sun 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m.

Located just outside Rome, the Ancient town of Ostia Antica often gets overlooked. Ostia Antica is an archeological site that served as a port city for ancient Rome and is located near the modern town of Ostia. Although its founding was thought to have been in the seventh century BC, archaeological remnants “only” date it back to fourth century BC. Wander about the impressive ruins, including an amphitheater, many temples and villas.

Getting there is a simple combination of a Metro and train ride (45 minutes total). Take Metro B line to the “Piramide” stop (direction: “Laurentina”). The Piramide Metro stop is located next to the Roma Porta San Paolo train station. Make sure to follow the signs that say “Lido.” Trains leave every 15 minutes.

Dining in Trastevere

6. Roaming the streets of Trastevere: Free

One of the favorite Italian past times is going for a passeggiata (“easy stroll”), and what better neighborhood to stroll through than picturesque Trastevere. Get lost in the winding cobblestone alleys. Happen upon local trattorias, street cafès and wonderful churches, such as Santa Maria in Trastevere.

7. Attend a Papal Mass: Free
Web site

There’s our favorite word again! On Sundays at noon, the Pope gives a prayer (the “Angelus”) and blesses the crowd of pilgrims in St. Peter’s Square. Tickets are not required to attend this event, so if you want a good spot, be sure to arrive early. On Wednesdays at 10:30 a.m. the Pope leads a blessing before a general audience; tickets are required but can be easily obtained (see Web site for details).

ArcheoBus

8. Hop on the ArcheoBus: €10
Web site

Sometimes, it’s nice to have someone do all the planning for you. For example, the ArcheoBus will drive you around town and let you hop on and hop off at major sights, including the Colosseum, the Baths of Caracalla, the Appia Antica Park, the Catacombs of San Callisto and San Sebastiano, among others. The entire loop lasts about an hour and a half and includes an audio guide in eight languages, including English. You can catch the green open-air bus from Termini train station.

9. Go for gelato: €2-€3

After going to see the Pantheon (another must-see freebie), you must indulge in one of life’s tastiest pleasures: a gelato from Giolitti (Uffici del Vicario, 40). It’s one of Rome’s oldest gelaterie and, according to me at least, it’s one of the city’s best. Nocciola (“hazelnut”) and pistacchio are my favorites. The place is always packed with tourists, but once you’ve tried their gelato, you’ll understand why. (It’s a far cry from Häagen-Dazs.)

Ara Pacis, Rome

10. Visit Ara Pacis: €7.50
Lungotevere in Augusta
Tel.: +39 06.0608
Open: Tuesday-Sunday 9 a.m.-7 p.m.
Web site

One of Rome’s newest landmarks, the funky glass-and-travertine structure where the Ara Pacis (“Alter of Peace”) is held was designed by the American architect Richard Meier. Some find the structure gaudy, while others find it breathtaking. Regardless, it caused quite a stir in Rome when it opened in 2006.

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Rome Neighborhood Spotlight: Trastevere https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-neighborhood-spotlight-trastevere.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-neighborhood-spotlight-trastevere.html#comments Thu, 05 Feb 2009 13:40:08 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=2394 The scene at Porta Portese’s market in Trastevere; photo by Tara Bulba Today we bring you another neighborhood spotlight, this time we’re focusing the lens on Trastevere in Rome, Italy. Ciao down! Across the river… Trastevere, which literally means “Beyond the Tiber,” is an area directly west of the Tiber River in Rome. Not only » Read more

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The scene at Porta Portese’s market in Trastevere; photo by Tara Bulba

Today we bring you another neighborhood spotlight, this time we’re focusing the lens on Trastevere in Rome, Italy. Ciao down!

Across the river…

Trastevere, which literally means “Beyond the Tiber,” is an area directly west of the Tiber River in Rome. Not only is it gorgeous architecturally (think lots of ivy, stone walls, cobblestone streets, and medieval buildings), it’s pretty chock full of funky shops, cafes, and bars. (In fact, we call it “Boho gone Soho” in our guide.

Years ago, it was your typical Roman working class neighborhood, but today, it’s been ‘discovered’ by hipsters and fashionistas alike.

This doesn’t mean it has to be expensive, though.  Six of the budget hotels we recommend in this area go for under €150 a night, for two guests. And, if you want something cheaper, we have tons of properties via  CheapoSearch; just do a search and simply highlight Trastevere as your neighborhood of choice. (As usual, let us know if you don’t find what you’re looking for.)

What to see and do…and eat

A trip to Trastevere isn’t complete without a visit to the flea market in Porta Portese. It happens every Sunday from 7 AM to 1 PM, just off of Viale Trastevere.

If you want some truly spectacular photos of the city (“I’ve seen the world from both sides now…”), be sure to take a walk on Isola Tiberina, the island that’s in the middle of the Tiber between the Trastevere and Centro Historico sides.

The Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere is widely considered the oldest church – dedicated to the Virgin Mary –  in Rome. It’s a beautiful sight, with golden mosaics and a Romanesque facade.

And, our own EC correspondent Annie Shapero, recommends Da Augusto (Piazza de’ Renzi, 15) for traditional Italian fare – and at reasonable prices.

If you go

Check out our guide for lots of budget tips for Rome, hotels, and more.

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