Although bäckerei are a common fixture on any Berlin street, not all loaves are created equal. But fear not, here’s a quick(-rising) guide to three of my favorite bakeries in Berlin:

Soluna Soluna Brot und Öl.
Gneisenaustr. 58, 10961 Berlin
(+49) 30 61671191
Mon-Fri, 10 a.m. – 7 p.m., Sat 7:30 a.m. – 4 p.m., Sun 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Owner, Peter Klann is a baker of the Old World. His Kreuzberg-based bakery’s wood-oven stone near the entrance hints at the quality of loaves that rise here, luring customers in with the yeasty aroma of freshly baked bread.

The shop offers a range of traditional German style brots, as well as some foreign-inspired starches, such as Ligurian Olive Bread or the traditional French baguette. There are also house-made spreads (known as “pistes”), cheeses, cured meats, leberwurst, and other amiable bread companions available for purchase.

Weichardt
Mehlitzstrasse 7, Wilmersdorf
(+49) 30 873 8099
Tues-Fri 8 a.m. – 6:30 p.m., Sat 9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Located off a sleepy street in Wilmersdorf, Weichardt’s modest entrance and size belies its reputation when it comes to the art of German bread-baking. Although a small space, it manages to craft a vast variety of German-style breads that easily rival the size of your head.

Since its inception in 1977, Weichardt has leavened its reputation amongst Berlin bread-lovers dishing out traditional loaves, such as Roggenbrot (rye) and Volkornbrot (whole-grain). If you have sweet tooth, then their Schokosahne Torteand, a decadent confection composed of bitter chocolate and cream is a must.

Brotgarten
Seelingstrasse 30, Charlottenburg
(+49) 30 322 8880
Mon-Fri 7 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Sat 7 a.m.-2 p.m., Sun 7 a.m.-3 p.m.

The whole-grain bread movement first took shape in the late 19th century under the direction of the “life reform” movement, which sought to return dense unrefined bread to the table and reinstate its place in German life in order to counter the rise of starchy white rolls. A close cousin of the Austrian-led organic movement, its hearty reign continues today and Brotgarten, located in Charlottenburg is further evidence of it.

Founded in 1978, Brotgarten is considered one of Berlin’s first whole-grain bakeries. It offers an impressive variety of 29 whole-grain style loaves keeping customer healthy (not to mention full). Next-door is a sister cafe, where you can dip your crusty loaf in some warm soup or indulge in the traditional afternoon, kaffee and kuchen ritual with a sweet slice of their Linzertorte and a frothy latte macchiato.

Also in our guide: If this post has raised your interest, stop loafing around and head over to our Berlin guide where you’ll find a wide-variety of information on budget travel, including reviews of the best budget hotels in Berlin.

The post Berlin: Our 3 favorite bakeries for your daily bread appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Just ask and you shall (hopefully) receive:

1. Water at meals

All meals, from the ritziest restaurant to the lowliest donor kebab, should come with a free pitcher of tap water. Even an espresso comes with a glass of room temperature hydration.

If you don’t have a pitcher when your food comes, simply ask for “une carafe d’eau, s’il vous plait,” and don’t hesitate to ask for refills.

2. Bread at meals

Bread is also a staple at the table, so don’t hesitate to ask for it. In typical restaurants, mustard, salt, pepper and bread will be put on the table before you receive your meal. Of course there are many exceptions, but if you’re having a sit-down meal, asking for bread (“le pain, s’il vous plait”) will surprise no one. This is the birthplace of the baguette, after all.

3. Maps

Tourists hitting the streets of Paris with their guidebook maps are often disappointed by the missing streets and tiny Metro maps printed inside the cover of their books. Fortunately cartography is a big business in Paris. Metro maps, in both large and small formats, can be obtained for free at most Metro stations. (Simply ask for “un plan de Metro, s’il vous plait.”)

And the Galeries Lafayettes, one of Paris’ famed department stores, prints free city maps (“plan de Paris”) that can be found in the reception areas of most of Paris’ hotels and hostels, along with other major tourist sights.

4. Samples

This one’s delicate. Free samples are abundant in Paris – if you know when to ask. Many chocolate shops will offer a taste if you linger long enough, but play your cards right. If the shopkeeper can tell you’re going to buy something, he or she will have fewer qualms about offering up a sample to help you decide. And sometimes not.

When you stroll through outdoor markets, merchants are all too eager to have you taste their pineapples and mangos, so just say “Merci!” and taste away. Cheese shops will also be fairly willing to cut you a sliver if you ask to taste the difference between two choices, if you’re clearly going to purchase some fromage.

5. Toilets

While there are many free public bathrooms that look like small space pods located throughout the city, bathrooms are also available with any purchase at a café. If you purchase a café or a Perrier at the café bar (remember, it’s cheaper at the bar than at a table), you can ask for the bathroom without worries.

Note: If the bathroom door looks like it is coin-operated, simply ask for the “jeton” (token) from the server and he or she will hand you a silver coin that will open the door.

6. ATM withdrawals (for Bank of America clients)

Free money? Well, almost. If you want to avoid paying pesky bank fees, you can withdraw without charge from the BNP Paribas bank if you have a Bank of America account. If this applies to you, you will curtail any travelers’ checks or foreign exchange fees that have troubled travelers for so many years. (Read our guide to ATM bank fees for Americans abroad.)

7.  Wi-Fi

I’ve said it once and I’ve said it again: paying for the internet in Paris is a scam. With Paris’ public Wi-Fi program, and the various wireless networks available in cafés and McDonald’s, there is no reason to drop a dime to check your email.

For more information, read my previous post on where to find free Wi-Fi in Paris. Trust me, it still works as long as you have a smart phone or laptop.

Your favorite free things in Paris?

What other freebies have you found in the City of Light? Tell us, Cheapos, in the comments section.

The post Paris: 7 things that are always free in Paris appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

And soon I was hooked. Still after all these years, my love for the classic French “sammiches” (as my musician brother Will says) is here to stay. And what’s not to adore? Individually wrapped, often in beautifully illustrated bags, they’re delectable, affordable and oh so portable.

So, as a nod to the upcoming picnic season and to New York Times 82-year-old street photographer Bill Cunningham, let’s pedal push wildly “On the Streets” of Paris, and find out what the best-dressed sandwiches are wearing this season. I’ll also tip you off to two of my favorite current joints for sandwiches—a café and a boulangerie. Relish that, Cheapos!

Jambon Beurre Gruyère (ham, butter and Gruyère cheese)

Tip one
Splurge-worthy: Café de la Mairie
8 Place Saint-Sulpice, 6th arrondissement (Metro: Saint Sulpice or Rennes)

Thank my sister Wendy for this discovery. During her recent trip to Paris, she’s the one who wisely suggested that we take a much-needed touring (and shopping) break at the Café de la Mairie, and I’m happy to report that the experience was a knockout win-grin.

I had photographed the café’s terrace-action for previous Cheapo stories, but I had never dined there. Truth be told, for the love of saving euros, I usually try to avoid the bars and cafés near tourist hotspots, and the Café de la Mairie is located in the heart of Saint-Germain, kitty-corner to Église Saint-Sulpice.

But to my surprise, the café latte with a Cantal cheese and butter baguette (pictured, top) wildly surpassed our expectations. Blame the attentive table service, dramatic skies, and the catbird seats under the big awning near a bustling bus stop, but the spontaneous moveable feast was worth every cent, down to the last drop.

While the coffee may have cost a tad more than at cafes located in less touristic areas, it was rich and hot, topped with a thick layer of foam. The substantial sandwich Wen and I shared? It cost just €4, and we sliced it down the middle. Dagwood in Paris experience? Priceless.

Who else found inspiration here? Henry Valentine Miller, Anaïs Nin, and Ernest Hemingway, along with F. Scott Fitzgerald, Saul Bellow, and Djuna Barnes. Let’s also add James Joyce, Samuel Becket, and Jean-Paul Sartre, but don’t forget Albert Camus, Edward Hopper, and Simone de Beauvoir.

Added bonus: After fifteen years of restoration work, the church of Saint-Sulpice across the square recently shed its scaffolding, and the view is once more a beauty.

Sunday night bread line at Le Grenier à Pain

Tip Two
Palace-worthy: Le Grenier à Pain
38, rue des Abbesses, 18th arrondissement (Métro: Abbesses or Pigalle)

Located in Abbesses, this is where I buy most of my baguettes and jambon-fromage sandwiches (ham and cheese with butter). Consistency, friendly customer service, and an eclectic house selection of breads, cakes, and pies are just a few of the Grenier boulangerie’s winning qualities.

Tip: If you spot the sandwich of your dreams but it doesn’t have crudités (lettuce and tomato), just ask, and they’ll happily add it.

Add award-winning to the mix, too. Handsome Boulanger Djibril Bodian won the 2010 “Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris” which not only earned him a sparkly medal and a wad of cash but also earned him the honor of baking bread for the Palais de l’Elysées (the French presidential palace) for one year! The annual award is based on aroma, honeycomb-like interior, and crust (which can never be too thin or too crisp). What makes Bodian’s bread so special? No shortcuts, long fermentation, and a dash of hazelnut!

By the way, the 2011 winner has not been announced yet. Perhaps the President and First Lady don’t want to lose their daily loaf from Le Grenier à Pain? Just guessing. Please stay tuned!

Baguette Thon Crudités Oeufs (tuna, lettuce, tomato and hard-boiled eggs)

Best-dressed list

And how are the baguettes dressed this season? Here are a few of my favorites. Take heed, they are dressed to fill!

Baguette Cantal Beurre (Cantal cheese and butter)

Baguette Jambon Beurre Gruyère (ham, butter and Gruyère cheese)

Baguette Thon Crudités Oeufs (tuna, lettuce, tomato and hard-boiled eggs)

Baguette Salami (salami and butter)

Baguette Poulet Crudités (chicken, lettuce and tomato)

Baguette Paté, Baguette Camembert (Camembert cheese)

Baguette Saucisson Sec (cured sausage)

Your favorite baguettes?

Do you have a favorite baguette sandwich? Share your experience in our comments section. And bon appétit, Cheapos!

The post Paris: The city’s best-dressed baguette sandwiches appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Here’s our guide to the boulangerie’s “other” baked goods, thinking beyond the baguette…

More “pain,” all gain

First off, there is much more to French bread (“pain”) than the baguette.

I’m a bit partial to the “tradition,” which is much softer than a baguette and tastes a little like sourdough. There are also “boules,” or round breads, and most boulangeries now offer whole-grain options. You’ll be hard-pressed to find any loaf of French bread that costs more than €2.

Similarly, it’s time to branch out from the standard croissant. Go for broke on the calorie-meter with a “pain au chocolat”, often mistakenly called a “chocolate croissant” in the U.S. (The word “croissant” implies a crescent shape, whereas a “pain au chocolat” tends to be somewhat square.)

Though not as extensive as a “patisserie” (a bakery that specializes in pastries), boulangeries offer a full range of “tartes” and other small pastries to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Lunch to go: Baguette sandwiches, quiches, and more

The boulangerie is a great place to pick up a quick lunch to eat on the go or bring to a picnic.

Small baguette sandwiches are reasonably-priced (around €3-4). A “jambon buerre” (ham with butter) is a pretty standard French option, although you’ll also find sandwiches with “thon” (tuna), “poulet” (chicken), “ouef” (egg), and more.  When the shopkeeper asks if you’d like your sandwich “avec salade,” she wants to know if you’d like one with lettuce and tomato or just the meat.

Other lunch options range from quiche to mini pizza to “croque monsieur” (a ham sandwich with cheese baked on the outside), depending on the bakery.

Formule: Make the most of your lunch money

Most boulangeries offer a “formule,” a lunch special that includes a sandwich, a dessert, and a drink. The price depends on the location and sometimes on the type of sandwich you order. Expect to pay between €5-7 for the meal.

As with all shops in France, the majority of boulangeries will be closed on Sundays, except for in highly touristed areas. If you do find a boulangerie you like open on Sunday, odds are it will be closed if you try to return on Monday.

Tell us!

Do you have a favorite boulangerie in Paris? Or a French bread product you just can’t live without? Tell us about it in the comments section.

The post Paris Cheap Eats: Beyond baguettes at the boulangerie appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.