boulangerie – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 First time in Paris? 8 activities not to miss https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-8-activities-that-should-be-on-your-bucket-list.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-8-activities-that-should-be-on-your-bucket-list.html#comments Wed, 30 May 2012 15:25:08 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=23705 By Theadora Brack in Paris— Rumor has it you’re planning a trip to Paris! So bless your soul and grab my hand. I have a few recommendations for a dreamy Parisian bucket list, big or tall. Here is where I find my inspiration! 1. Book it! While kicking down the cobblestones, why not pick up » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Rumor has it you’re planning a trip to Paris! So bless your soul and grab my hand. I have a few recommendations for a dreamy Parisian bucket list, big or tall. Here is where I find my inspiration!

Hang out at Shakespeare and Company.

1. Book it!

While kicking down the cobblestones, why not pick up a Paris-related book or novella? Check out Shakespeare & Co. at 37 rue Bûcherie (Metro: Saint-Michel). Located near Notre Dame, it is the most enchanting bookshop in the city!

Through the hard times and the good, I also praise the San Francisco Bookshop at 17 Rue Monsieur le Prince (Metro: Odéon). Here is where I recently found a well-loved copy of “A Literate Passion: Letters of Anaïs Nin & Henry Miller”. Talk about the ultimate starry-eyed read!

Henry wrote: “I have not dared until now to say what I think. But I am plunging—you have opened the void for me—there is no holding back. I am in a fever.” Oh, sigh!

(Read more about our favorite bookstores in Paris.)

Get cheesy at the fromagerie.

2. Eat, Drink and be Merry

And speaking of Henry’s valentine, he also penned, “The aim of life is to live, and to live means to be aware: joyously, drunkenly, serenely, divinely aware!”

Here’s the squeal! Paris is made up of beaucoup boulangeries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, and glaciers. Clipping The Left Banke, don’t walk away, Renée—spurge away! Also, ask for tidbit samples and recommendations. Cheapos, they know.

My gastronomical checklist:

Don’t leave the city without trying a crème brûlé, a meringue, and at least one macaron, along with a baguette, a pain au chocolat, and a selection of young fromage (difficult to find outside of France). Let’s not forget the wine and the crêpes! “Je voudrais une crêpe fromage-jambon, s’il vous plaît,” is what I always say!

(Read more about our favorite cafes and bakeries in Paris.)

3. Big City, Bright Lights

I also advocate sipping a round on a café terrace. Winter, spring, summer and fall, you won’t forget it! For pumped-up kicks, give Suze a shot! A gentian-based apéritif, this old-school bar favorite is typically served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice. Challenge your mates to describe its strange and peculiar flavor!

Back in the day, Picasso quipped, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Yes, the iconic bottle played muse to Picasso back in 1912. Hands-down, his super-cube collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze” always sets my rain on fire!

(Read more about drinks to try at any cafe in Paris.)

Hanging out in the Jardin du Luxembourg

4. Parks and Rec

After you’ve picked up your reads and nibbles, head to one of my favorite parks: Jardin du Luxembourg (Metro: Notre-Dame des Champs, Rennes or Vavin), Jardin des Tuileries (Metro: Tuileries, Concorde, Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre, Pyramides) and the Jardin du Palais Royal (Metro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre).

WWHD? (What would Hem do?)

Hemingway would most likely mosey on over to the Square du Vert-Galant (Metro: Pont Neuf, Cité or Saint-Michel), and chill with wine, books, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.”

(Read in detail about our favorite parks in Paris.)

Lovely, moody Pere Lachaise.

Last stop

Cemeteries are also perfect spots for a little peace, love and understanding. I often curl up with Oscar Wilde at the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise. Like a new pair of cat eyeglasses, the calm terrain not only changes perception, but also attitude. The surrounding beauty both soothes and re-energizes my spirits every time.

Here you’ll also find comfort with Chopin, Modigliani, Proust, Edith Piaf and Jim Morrison. It’s free, and the perfect Paris experience, rain or shine. Come with a journal or sketchbook in hand. In the words of the dashing Wilde, “I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train.” Oh, yes.

5. Taxi!

After nightfall, treat yourself to a cab ride in the City of Light. This is when the city truly twinkles. If you’re not already a wee intoxicated, you soon will be. I guarantee it.

To catch a ride, keep your eyes peeled for a cabstand. You could also hoof around the city after sundown. In Paris I always feel safe as houses, even when I roll solo.

6. Eiffel Tower

Like the moon and stars, the Eiffel Tower is a free show from almost anywhere in town, but better yet go there! Add it to your list. Just do it. Looking for a picture-perfect shot? Shoot up from below, center stage. Here the tower’s iron lattice resembles classic French black lace knickers. Oh, la, la!

I also highly recommend scoring an Eiffel Tower key chain at one of the souvenir shops in Montmartre. For the true love of corn, you’ll thank me one day in the near future. I have no doubts and no shortage of miniature replicas in my very own big box of life’s mementos. Just saying.

View from the rooftop.

7. Up on the roof

Right smack dab in the middle of town, I have a pet rooftop haven. Galeries Lafayette has never let me down! Up here, you’ll spy the Opéra Garnier, the Tour Eiffel, and Sacré Coeur. It’s another perfect spot to recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with sunsets and to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture!

(Read more about visiting the rooftop of Galeries Lafayette and tips for visiting the Sacre Coeur.)

8. Quill Power

Go vintage! Buy your postcards at the flea market! In the world of texts and emoticons, a little handwriting will feel good to the hand, spirit, cat sitter or paramour! Start the search for “cartes postale ancienne” at either the Porte de Vanves Flea Market or Clignancourt Flea Market at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès).

(Read our tips for shopping at flea markets in Paris.)

Signing off with yet another passage by Hemingway, Cheapos, “There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.”

Bon Voyage! Carpe diem, Cheapos! Now start planning that trip!

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Paris: Favorite cafe, chocolate shop, and boulangerie “hangouts” https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-favorite-cafes-chocolates-and-boulangerie.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-favorite-cafes-chocolates-and-boulangerie.html#respond Mon, 12 Dec 2011 13:11:51 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=21190 ’Tis the season to be jolie, so I’ve decided to whip up a little something special for you, Cheapos. Here are a handful of my favorite hangouts in Paris. They’re all food-related and drool-worthy, but that’s no big surprise as I eat, love and pray daily for an abundance of treats. Ho-ho-ho! (By the way, » Read more

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’Tis the season to be jolie, so I’ve decided to whip up a little something special for you, Cheapos. Here are a handful of my favorite hangouts in Paris. They’re all food-related and drool-worthy, but that’s no big surprise as I eat, love and pray daily for an abundance of treats. Ho-ho-ho!

(By the way, if you haven’t already, check out Bryan’s fantastic Paris gift-giving guide!)

1. Café de la Mairie
8 Place Saint-Sulpice, 6th arrondissement (Metro: Saint Sulpice or Rennes)

Located next to Église Saint-Sulpice, the Café de la Mairie is where I catch my breath during my bargain shopping sprees on rue de Rennes or in Saint-Germain-des-Près. Here the historic joint rocks a New York coffee shop or Baltimore diner vibe. Dogs, kiddies and chit-chat abound! It smells great, too, like my grandmother’s Butcher’s Hill row house during holiday meal preparations.

I recommend ordering Cantal jeune cheese (which can be difficult to find back in the States!) with a baguette. This substantial sandwich costs €4, and is large enough for two. The bottled soda pops are served up all old-school with ice, a spoon and a slice of lemon. Service is consistently friendly and swift.

Tips: Ask to sit in Jeff’s section. He’s a charmer. The terrace has a catbird’s view of the famous church just across the square.

Who else has found inspirational bliss here? Literary greats like F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and Albert Camus, that’s who, along with Henry Miller, Anaïs Nin, and Saul Bellow—just to name a few!

Also, if time permits, pop by Saint-Sulpice, and hang with its Delacroix inside. For the love of Dan Brown, DaVinci-Coders, don’t leave without walking the famous Rose Line (which cuts right through the altar).

2. Triadou Haussmann
80 Boulevard Haussmann, 8th arrondissement (Metro: Saint-Lazare)

Nestled in between Gare Saint-Lazare and Printemps Homme, I recently discovered the historic Triadou, after attending the launches of the holiday window spectaculars at the grand magasins along the hustling, bustling Boulevard Haussmann. Open since 1935, the family-run café is now my new favorite post-shopping stop. Its handsome terrace with its iconic cane chairs, neon lights, and outdoor heaters is also a prime people-watching spot.

So what’s on the menu? I recommend going with the baguette jambon beurre Gruyère (ham, butter and Gruyère cheese). Recognize a running theme in this post? Yes, I am hooked on baguette sandwiches! The bowl-sized café latte is consistently rich and piping hot, topped with a thick layer of foamy cream and served with a chunk of dark chocolate. Making hot chocolate just got easier, and I just can’t get enough.

3. Chocolates and Macarons by Christophe Roussel
5 rue Tardieu, 18th arrondissement (Metro: Abbesses or Anvers)

Is it possible to have too many addictions? I don’t think so. This week, I am happy to shout out that there is a new macaron in Montmartre, and it’s dipped in dark chocolate. Created by charismatic Christophe Roussel and Julie Haumont, the shop’s Calder-like macaron mobiles in the window caught my eye and tempted my tongue. So I ventured inside.

The shop’s interior is bright and trippy, boasting a tie-dyed, psychedelic color scheme in pink, green, purple and orange. Here I definitely felt a “Groovitational” pull and—in a fit of rave—I purchased one too many macaroons to count. Soon I was I feeling the sugar rush, and singing Simon and Garfunkel’s “Feeling Groovy,” as I kicked down the cobblestones to the “I love you” wall in the square behind the Hector Guimard entrance to Metro Abbesses. Ba-da-da-da, all is groovy!

Here’s another loving spoonful. In 2010 Christophe and Julie received Paris’s “Salon du Chocolat Prix Spécial Innovation.” His chocolate bar (yes, you heard me right—it’s a bar that serves chocolate) is located at the Hôtel du Cadran at 10 Champs de Mars in the 7th arrondissement. Don’t leave without tasting Roussel’s signature scrumptious (and Man Ray/Lee Miller-inspired) chocolate lips, or his new chocolate-coated lollipop macarons. Oh, la la.

Au Levain d’Antan Paris

4. Au Levain d’Antan
6 rue des Abbesses, 18th arrondissement (Métro: Abbesses or Pigalle)

Extra! Extra! Read all about it here. This year, boulanger Pascal Barillon of Au Levain d’Antan won the “Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris.” Located in Abbesses, Au Levain d’Antan is where I buy most of my croissants and pain au chocolat pastries. (By the way, in the past five years, four boulangeries in Montmartre have won the coveted award. Could it be that there’s something special about the old hill’s own local earth, wind and fire?)

Fast forward, the amiable Pascal Barillon scored a shiny medal, cash, and the honor of baking bread for President Nicolas Sarkozy and First Lady Carla Bruno-Sarkozy at the Palais de l’Elysées (the French presidential palace) for one year! The annual award is based on aroma, texture, crust, and size. And yes, Virginia, size DOES matter, at least when it comes to bread—this year 32 of the 175 competing baguettes got eliminated because, well, they came up a tad on the short side.

Cheapos, here’s what else is short—life! So find your happy place. Bon Appétit!

Your favorite hangouts?

Do you have a favorite cafe, restaurant or bakery to add to our list? Tell us about your favorite Parisian hangout in our comments section.

Also in our guide: Heading to Paris anytime soon? We’ve got favorite hotel hangouts, too! Read our editors’ reviews of their favorite hotels, all located in central Paris and all visited, inspected and photographed by us. Read more in our Paris guide.

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Paris: 6 favorite cheap restaurants in the Abbesses neighborhood https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-6-favorite-cheap-eats-in-the-abbesses-neighborhood.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-6-favorite-cheap-eats-in-the-abbesses-neighborhood.html#comments Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:40:23 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=11277 When it comes to love and chow in Paris, I’m as loyal they come, but I ain’t easy. Before it’ll catch my heart, any eatery had better possess a certain ambience, flattering lighting, an affordable menu, gastronomical consistency, and friendly service. If they recognize my devotion with a smile, a little wave or a complimentary » Read more

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When it comes to love and chow in Paris, I’m as loyal they come, but I ain’t easy. Before it’ll catch my heart, any eatery had better possess a certain ambience, flattering lighting, an affordable menu, gastronomical consistency, and friendly service. If they recognize my devotion with a smile, a little wave or a complimentary cocktail, well then I am hooked—make no bones about it.

So, for your moveable feasting pleasure, I got out my little red book and whipped up a short list of favorite cheap eats in my Abbesses neighborhood. The joints listed here will not only save you money but enhance your overall travel experience.

As my grandmother would say, saving for a trip starts at home. So set down that fancy frappuccino, and wait to treat yourself to a “Sez” draft at a café above the Seine instead!

Getting there: Métro Abbesses, Pigalle or Blanche

1. Le Coquelicot (“The Poppy”)
24 rue des Abbesses
Boulangerie

Here’s where I buy my ham and cheese sandwiches, along with their award-winning “Piccola” baguettes.

Decor: Shabby-chic with hand-painted murals
Vibe: Fresh and bubbly
Perks: Fabulous view of the bakers kneading, perky staff, and terrace seating
Try: Jambon-fromage baguette, lemon bars, pain au chocolat, and Piccola baguettes

Tips: As always in Paris, takeout is cheaper, so make a selection and picnic at nearby Place des Abbesses and its little Square Jehan Rictus by the “J’taime Wall.” Love your bread straight from the oven? Ask and they will tell.

La Pignatta restaurant Paris

La Pignatta

2. La Pignatta
89 rue des Martyrs
Italian

Here’s where I buy take-out pizzas for my dinner parties. With their gravity-defying pizza tossing tricks and brick oven, they’ve never let me or my shindig guests down.

Decor: Old World charm accessorized with checkered tablecloths and travel posters
Vibe: ‘S Wonderful, ‘S Marvelous
Perks: Terrace seating, personable staff, hefty portions with Cheapo price tags attached
Try: Pizza Caprese or Pizza Pignatta, topped with a roasted egg and crème fraîche

Tips: Again, take-out is cheaper. From here it’s just a romantic stroll up to Sacre Coeur. For another picnic idea, check out their fresh Italian salads. I’ve got a thing going on with the tri-salad sampler.

Le Saint Jean, Paris

The terrace at Le Saint Jean

3. Le Saint Jean
16 rue des Abbesses

Like the 25 little black dresses that hang in my closet, there really isn’t an occasion that le Saint Jean is perfectly suited for, night and day.

Decor: Classic Paris diner with cozy wooden booths, bar, and photography
Vibe: Where’s Edith Piaf? I’m sure she’s here somewhere.
Perks: Terrace seating and occasional live music and dancing
Try: Omelets, hand-cut fries, salads, crème brulée, and French onion soup

Tips: Order house wine by the pitcher. Traditional French dishes are always available. Lost in translation? Just ask. The staff is friendly and helpful. The best people-watching tables are located on the far left, next to the rue André Antoine steps.

4. Le Mono
40 rue Véron
Togolese

Le Mono restaurant Paris

A birthday at Le Momo. Photo: Marcus Schubert

I love this place because the owner always manages to find a table for me, even on his busiest Saturday nights.

Decor: West African—bamboo, masks and popular art
Vibe: Very festive and so bruyant!
Perks: Large portions, engaging staff and a masterpiece playlist that includes King Mensah and Salif Keita!

Try: Djenkoumé (chicken in tomato sauce), grilled plantains and a cold Flag beer!

Tips: This is a great place to celebrate a birthday. Let them know ahead of time, leave your cake behind the counter, and they’ll happily stage a dramatic presentation—with music! (They won’t mention it, but it’s good form to tip for extra service like this.)

5. Le Relais Gascon
6 rue des Abbesses

Cheapos, this is where I go after a seeing movie at the historic movie house Studio 28, located just down the street. Here you’ll find big, inexpensive salads piled high with a variety of meats, cheeses and vegetables, and scrupulously topped with mountains of homemade, hand-cut garlic potatoes!

Decor: Traditional-rustic with wooden bar, mirrors, murals, and paintings
Vibe: Oh, so boisterous and bustling
Perks: Family-style seating on the second floor, terrace seating, and large portions
Try: One of the ten Salades Géantes with pommes de terre sautées à l’ail (think Mont Ventoux!)

Tips: The locals are also in awe of its old-school appeal, so arrive early to score seating. Also, order your house wine by the pitcher. It’s cheaper.

6. Café des Deux Moulins
15 rue Lepic

Café des Deux Moulins Paris

The glow of the Café des Deux Moulins

So why is the “café of two windmills” so unique et magnifique? Because it was featured in “Amélie“, that’s why! Stop by for an apéritif or post-dinner indulgence and rub elbows with other pilgrims.

Decor: Old-fashioned seating, hand-painted murals and classic bar
Vibe: Frenetic
Perks: Photo-op with the house gnome or exterior neon sign. Make the kids back home ga-ga with envy.
Try it: Picon-bière, a bittersweet blend of oranges and deep blue gentian flowers, typically served with a small draft beer. Mix and tipple!

Tip: Arrive around 5 PM for happy hour, starring discounted drinks. The voluptuous sweets are also heavenly.

Cheapos, make every meal an experience, after all, it was Julia Child’s very first lunch in France that changed her life, and set her cookbook project in motion. Years later she wrote, “I can still almost taste it. And thinking back on it now reminds me that the pleasures of the table and of life, are infinite. Toujours Bon Appétit!”

Oui-oui, Bon Appétit!

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Paris In A Cheapo Minute: City tips A-Z https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-in-a-cheapo-minute-city-tips-a-z.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-in-a-cheapo-minute-city-tips-a-z.html#comments Mon, 15 Feb 2010 15:44:05 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=8069 With my pointy arrow, I feverishly pen this post from Paris. February marks my one-year anniversary with EuroCheapo! In honor of this sparkling occasion, I pop open the flashbacks along with a few brand-spanking-new insider nuggets! Read on, Cheapo! A for Abbesses By now it’s no secret that “Amélie” was filmed here, but did you » Read more

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With my pointy arrow, I feverishly pen this post from Paris. February marks my one-year anniversary with EuroCheapo! In honor of this sparkling occasion, I pop open the flashbacks along with a few brand-spanking-new insider nuggets!

Read on, Cheapo!

A for Abbesses
By now it’s no secret that “Amélie” was filmed here, but did you know that its original title was “Amélie des Abbesses”? If you come by Metro, do take the lift. The station is ten stories underground!

B for Brocante
Throughout the year you’ll find “brocantes” (antique/junk sales) and “vide-greniers” (garage sales) scattered all over. For a listing, click here.

Outside the Coquelicot boulangerie.

Outside the Coquelicot boulangerie.

C for Coquelicot
Next to Metro Abbesses, you’ll find the Coquelicot boulangerie. Thierry Racoillet’s old-fashioned and award-winning Picolla baguettes are not to be missed. They also give bread to the homeless.

D for Dalida
The late pop diva’s house is at the bend in rue d’Orchampt, and her grave is in the Cimetière de Montmartre. Pilgrims still visit both shrines to the female Elvis of France!

E for Eiffel
Not only did Madame La Tour Eiffel recently celebrate her 102nd birthday, but now it’s possible to buy tickets online prior to your visit!

F for Flea markets
Junkies, note that the Porte de Vanves is open Saturday and Sunday mornings, while the Porte de Clignancourt flea runs all day Saturday through Monday.

A shrine to popstar Dalida

A shrine to popstar Dalida

G for Serge Gainsbourg
Long live the late French King of Croon! “Vie Héroïque,” a film about his life, was just released. His former pad at 5 bis Rue de Verneuil is now covered with layers of graffiti left by ardent fanatics.

H for le Halle Saint Pierre
Visionaries, naives, and outsiders, oh my! Homemade quiche with a view of Sacré Coeur! If you like Baltimore’s American Visionary Art Museum, you’ll love Halle Saint Pierre, a giant cultural center with plenty of attractions.

I for “I Love Sympa”
Practice the art of elbow-to-elbow bargain bin shopping in the heart of Montmartre, elbow-deep in garb by Kookai, Jennyfer, Naf-Naf, Pimkie, Sinéquanone, and Sandro . . .  at only a fraction of original cost!

J for Jardin des Tuileries
This is the place to read your book or museum catalogue—and people-watch! Nab a bench and stay till sundown.

Strawberries and asparagus in season

Strawberries and asparagus in season

K for Kilos
At the markets, think seasonally! Produce will taste better and cost less. Asparagus rules in May, cherries star in July, and apples shine in early autumn. The lively marché d’Aligre in the 12th arrondissement is a favorite.

L for Jardins de Luxembourg
Run, Cheapo, run! Each loop is about 1.25 miles. Forgot your watch? There’s a clock on top of the Palais du Luxembourg.

The Mona Lisait bookstore

The Mona Lisait bookstore

M for Marais
The great discount bookstore Mona Lisait and the Musée Carnavalet are practically neighbors in the Marais! Carnavelet has an entire jewelry shop designed by Mucha and featuring Marie Anoinette’s dancing slippers. Bookshop tip: Avoid heels, the floor is ancient cobblestones.

N for Napoléon
High and aloof atop his column in the Place Vendôme, le petit caporal overlooks the Hôtel Ritz, (where the daring Cheapo will sashay through, just to have a look, see).

O say, can you see the Opéra?
The best spot for ogling the Phantom’s lair is the Metro Opéra entrance.

P for Pariscope
Pick up a copy at any newsstand. The pocket-sized weekly lists the week’s cultural happenings for brows of any height.

Q is for Quizzes
Expect more to come, Cheapos!

R for Raindrops
They fall often but never for long. Pack your “parapluie!”

The Studio 28 cinema

The Studio 28 cinema

S for Studio 28
Thank heaven for little cinemas! At Studio 28, you’ll be wooed by Jean Cocteau’s fantástico chandeliers, a crushed velvet fainting couch in the lobby, an art gallery, café, and footprints of the stars!

T for Taxi!
Need a cheap airport ride? Contact Lizza at Art-Trans Voyage.

U is for “Erope”
What’s missing? You!

The Bazzar de l’Hôtel de Ville department store.

The Bazzar de l’Hôtel de Ville department store.

V for Bazaar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV)
At grand magasin BHV, you’ll find one of my favorite souvenirs, the French bath mitt. Pair it with Provence soap and you’re good to bathe.

W for Wallace Fountains
Test the waters at 108 fountains sprinkled around Paris.  Bring your own bottle; the water’s free.

X for the Unexpected
Sometimes the best things in life take us by surprise.

Y for Degas’ “Young Dancer”
Where bronze meets tulle at the Musée d’Orsay.

Z for Émile Zola
Signing off with a mantra by Zola, “I am here to live out loud!”

Speaking of “out loud,” Cheapos, let’s hear from you! What tips would you add?

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Paris Tip: The best tarte in town! https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tip-the-best-tarte-in-town.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tip-the-best-tarte-in-town.html#comments Mon, 31 Aug 2009 14:31:27 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=5387 Looking for the best tarte in Paris? For a delectable inside scoop, I asked a baker’s dozen friends to name their favorite boulangerie or pâtisserie. Nearly everyone in Paris is both food critic and advocate. So, while visiting the City of (De)lights, take advantage of the gastronomical convictions of the knowledgeable locals. Hint: Look for » Read more

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Looking for the best tarte in Paris? For a delectable inside scoop, I asked a baker’s dozen friends to name their favorite boulangerie or pâtisserie.

Nearly everyone in Paris is both food critic and advocate. So, while visiting the City of (De)lights, take advantage of the gastronomical convictions of the knowledgeable locals. Hint: Look for lines snaking out of doorways—that’s always a good sign. Ask merchants for personal recommendations. And if you’re invited to a dinner party, brace yourself for at least one heated debate about food, and when it erupts, for the love of Julia Child, don’t take cover—take notes!

Cheapos, let’s take it to the streets (or the table)!

Sandrine’s pick: Gérard Mulot at 76 rue de Seine (Metro Odéon)

“I’m gluttonous!” confesses harpist Sandrine, “so on special occasions, I indulge in their decadent tarte à la orange. It always pleases!” (By the way, Sandrine taught Kirsten Dunst how to play the harp for her title role in film, Marie Antoinette. What if she’d said, “Let them eat tartes?”)

Stéphanie’s pick: Pâtisserie Arnaud Larher at 53 rue Caulaincourt (Metro Lamarck-Caulaincourt)

“He makes extremely good pies and tartes, but he’s more famous for his chocolate and award-winning macarons,” according to media analyst Stéphanie.

Yohan’s pick: Arnaud Delmontel at 57 rue Damrémont (Metro Lamarck-Caulaincourt)

“In France, many bakeries don’t make the pastries themselves, so it is difficult to find really great ones, but this one makes it all on the premises,” says television editor Yohan.

Both Yohan and Stéphanie also mentioned: Les Petits Mitrons at 26 rue Lepic (Metro Blanche)

Ooh la la; More tartes at Le Petits Mitrons

Ooh la la; More tartes at Les Petits Mitrons

“Paris is changing. Most of the good bakeries and patisseries are near La Madeleine or across the Seine, so we’re very lucky to have three so close to our apartment,” Yohan says. Stephanie adds, “I highly recommend Chef Samie Didda’s mouth-watering chocolate tarte.”

Jeff’s pick: Encore! Les Petits Mitrons

Musician and composer Jeff Hallam often takes his band here just before or after rehearsals. “The crust is confection perfection. They caramelize the bottom of the light and flaky crust with butter and sugar. It’s to die for!”

Karine’s pick: Et encore une fois! Les Petits Mitrons

Engineer Karine admits, “But when I was younger I loved tartes aux fruits from Tarte Julie.” (Tarte Julie is a national franchise that’s been around since 1974.)

Swati’s pick: Les Petits Mitrons (must be habit forming!)

It wasn’t the pies in the window that caught clothing designer Swati’s eye during one of her early morning walks. It was the little bags of soft and chewy chocolate chip cookies. “Along with the music of Prince, they soon became my dinner party staple.”

Cat’s pick: Les Petits Mitrons (maybe we’re on to something?)

Gypsy band violinist Cat (a confirmed French Cheapo at heart, down to her Monoprix t-shirts) buys by the slice for just a few euros. “The slices are big. The crust is thin. It’s breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Miam! Miam! And the pink boxes they use are super cute!”

The scene at Legendre. Yummy.

The scene at Legendre. Yummy.

Laurent’s pick: Pâtisserie Legendre at 2 Butte aux Cailles (Metro Place d’Italie)

“To tell the truth, my favorite bakery is always the one closest to my apartment! What can I say, I like to buy local. It makes me feel connected,” says film editor Laurent.

Annelise’s pick: Tarte Julie outlets located all over France.

“When I don’t make my own tartes myself, I buy from Tarte Julie, or the frozen food store Picard. Yes, the frozen tarte is surprisingly nice, but it’s not as good as mine!” boasts book editor Annelise, referring to two popular chains.

Nausicaa’s pick: Pâtisserie Legendre

“Maybe it’s not the cheapest, but the pies are always fresh. Texture is perfect. So I’ll buy one in a pinch. The chocolates are also very, very good, ” she says.

Anne’s pick: Pâtisserie Tholoniat at 47 rue du Chateau d’Eau (Metro Chateau d’Eau).

“This confiserie has existed for seventy years. It was also my father’s favorite shop, when he was a boy,” says book designer Anne, with a nostalgic sigh.

Pierre’s picks: Le Grenier à Pain at 36 rue des Abbesses (Metro Abbesses)

“I know you asked about pies, but can I tell you where the best Christmas log cakes come from? No? Well, they have wonderful pies, too,” according to photographer Pierre.

And my own personal pick? Coquelicot (the poppy) at 24 rue des Abbesses (Metro: Abbesses). It’s dangerously located just below my apartment windows, so I’m able to smell their signature Piccola baguettes bake as I type. I can tell every time they open the oven door!

Do you have a favorite boulangerie or pâtisserie in Paris? Come on, Cheapos! Let’s rumble!

The post Paris Tip: The best tarte in town! appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

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Paris Cheap Eats: Beyond baguettes at the boulangerie https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-cheap-food-beyond-baguettes-at-the-boulangerie.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-cheap-food-beyond-baguettes-at-the-boulangerie.html#comments Mon, 15 Jun 2009 15:31:52 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=4303 For many people, living in Paris (or just visiting) conjures up visions of buying fresh baguettes and croissants every morning at the local “boulangerie.” But those delightful bakeries offer so much more than breakfast breads! They can also serve as a Cheapo-friendly lunchtime resource! Here’s our guide to the boulangerie’s “other” baked goods, thinking beyond the baguette… More “pain,” » Read more

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For many people, living in Paris (or just visiting) conjures up visions of buying fresh baguettes and croissants every morning at the local “boulangerie.” But those delightful bakeries offer so much more than breakfast breads! They can also serve as a Cheapo-friendly lunchtime resource!

Here’s our guide to the boulangerie’s “other” baked goods, thinking beyond the baguette…

More “pain,” all gain

First off, there is much more to French bread (“pain”) than the baguette.

I’m a bit partial to the “tradition,” which is much softer than a baguette and tastes a little like sourdough. There are also “boules,” or round breads, and most boulangeries now offer whole-grain options. You’ll be hard-pressed to find any loaf of French bread that costs more than €2.

Similarly, it’s time to branch out from the standard croissant. Go for broke on the calorie-meter with a “pain au chocolat”, often mistakenly called a “chocolate croissant” in the U.S. (The word “croissant” implies a crescent shape, whereas a “pain au chocolat” tends to be somewhat square.)

Though not as extensive as a “patisserie” (a bakery that specializes in pastries), boulangeries offer a full range of “tartes” and other small pastries to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Lunch to go: Baguette sandwiches, quiches, and more

The boulangerie is a great place to pick up a quick lunch to eat on the go or bring to a picnic.

Small baguette sandwiches are reasonably-priced (around €3-4). A “jambon buerre” (ham with butter) is a pretty standard French option, although you’ll also find sandwiches with “thon” (tuna), “poulet” (chicken), “ouef” (egg), and more.  When the shopkeeper asks if you’d like your sandwich “avec salade,” she wants to know if you’d like one with lettuce and tomato or just the meat.

Other lunch options range from quiche to mini pizza to “croque monsieur” (a ham sandwich with cheese baked on the outside), depending on the bakery.

Formule: Make the most of your lunch money

Most boulangeries offer a “formule,” a lunch special that includes a sandwich, a dessert, and a drink. The price depends on the location and sometimes on the type of sandwich you order. Expect to pay between €5-7 for the meal.

As with all shops in France, the majority of boulangeries will be closed on Sundays, except for in highly touristed areas. If you do find a boulangerie you like open on Sunday, odds are it will be closed if you try to return on Monday.

Tell us!

Do you have a favorite boulangerie in Paris? Or a French bread product you just can’t live without? Tell us about it in the comments section.

The post Paris Cheap Eats: Beyond baguettes at the boulangerie appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

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