That was the challenge laid down by one reader when he commented on our blog post last week. So we accept the challenge. Why go to Macedonia?

What’s in a name?

Similar in size to Massachusetts and Wales, Macedonia is a country in the southern Balkans that would dearly like to cut a dash on the international tourist circuit. So far, so good… or perhaps not.

US readers may remember those full page ads in the New York Times a few years ago where the Athens government protested that its northern neighbor used the name Macedonia. So to pacify those ruffled Hellenic feathers, the international community dubs the country (at least when Greeks are in earshot) the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (or “FYROM” for short).

Sveta Sofia church in Ohrid

Cut through the politics surrounding the name, and the Republic of Macedonia is keen to welcome visitors.

Macedonian variety

But why Macedonia rather than Greece or Albania? If you are a dedicated culture-vulture, Macedonia arguably packs more into a small space than any of its neighbors. It is the juxtaposition of a rich Orthodox Christian tradition with a lively Islamic heritage that underpins Macedonia’s appeal.

Then there are other inviting aspects of local culture, such as the Torbeshi and Vlach communities in the hills, and Europe’s largest Roma settlement at Suto Orizari, and dedicated followers of European minorities can enjoy a Macedonian feast. Suto Orizari, for example, could be a good magnet for culturally sensitive travelers.

Throw in great fresh salads, superb wines (especially the hefty reds) and you have many key ingredients to make the Republic of Macedonia a first-class destination.

Byzantine style

True, you’ll find that same engaging cultural combination, particularly the mixed Christian and Islamic heritage, in Albania (though certainly not in Greece). But Macedonia captures that religious variety better than Albania.

The sheer density of fine Byzantine art and architecture in Macedonia is dazzling. Sveta Sofia church in Ohrid (pictured, above right) boasts subtle frescoes that give a beautiful tutorial in 11th-century ecclesiastical politics, when the Great Schism divided the Christian Church into its two principal branches, viz. Latin (or Western) and Greek (or Eastern).

The monastery of Sveti Jovan Bigorski (St. John the Baptist) has a world-class carved iconostasis. And whether it be in the crumbling monastery at Treskavec (so desperately in need of renovation) or at the tiny church perched on the cliffs by Lake Ohrid at Kaneo, Macedonia offers rich insights into the Orthodox tradition.

A rich Islamic tradition

Yet frescoes and icons, no matter how splendid, may not induce you to travel to the Republic of Macedonia. For us, the country’s huge appeal lies in other pilgrim trails which meld Byzantine glory with other aspects of culture. One day, the Macedonian government will wake up to the reality that the country’s mosques and Muslim culture may be a trump card.

Bektashi beliefs

Visitors to Macedonia who take the trouble to visit the country’s Islamic communities will begin to appreciate the various strands of Muslim belief in the country. This is a chance to see something of the Bektashi community, a relatively small sect often regarded as part of the Sufi tradition, which has a number of tekkes or lodges across the country.

The city of Tetovo is a good starting point, where you can see a very fine mosque (pictured, left) and a Bektashi tekke. Curiously, the Bektashis blend elements of Christian religious practice into their own faith, such as venerating the tombs of the dead. There are even examples of shared shrines in Macedonia where Christians and Bektashi converge on the same sacred spaces (though not, perhaps, always for the same reasons).

How to get there

The main airport at Skopje (named after Alexander the Great in a move that does nothing to appease neighboring Greeks who also assert ownership over Alex) has regular flights from Zürich, Budapest, Vienna, Prague, Ljubljana and Belgrade. Wizz Air launches four times weekly connections from London on June 19.

The country’s second airport at Lake Ohrid reopened this week after a period closed for refurbishment. This spring and summer, Ohrid will benefit from direct flights from Ljubljana (Adria), Belgrade (JAT) and Amsterdam (ArkeFly).

The Bradt Guide to Macedonia

There are excellent train connections, with this summer’s schedules showing direct trains to Skopje from eight other countries. However and whenever you visit, take along Thammy Evans’ Bradt Guide to Macedonia. Her handling of the cultural complexity of the country is superb.

The post Why Travel to Macedonia? The Macedonian Question appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Europe’s car train network

Car trains don’t usually feature in the regular train schedules, and are often not so easy to find out about. Europe’s largest operator is DB Autozug, a division of Deutsche Bahn, which this year celebrates 80 years of operations. Apart from a network of routes within Germany, DB Autozug operates services from seven bases in Germany to ten destinations in France, Austria and Italy.

Other car train operators to bear in mind are:

• ÖBB (Austrian Railways): Six routes within Austria plus international services to Germany and ItalyAustria plus international services to Germany and Italy
• Trenitalia: Six routes within Italy
• SNCF Auto-Train: Some two dozen routes within France including some very useful cross-country links, such as from France’s Atlantic coast to the Riviera or Brittany to Alsace
• Optima Tours run the Optima Express which makes a big leap across the Balkans from Austria to Turkey.

In addition, there are useful domestic services in Croatia and Finland, plus of course a large number of short-hop car trains that transport vehicles and their passengers through Alpine tunnels, under the English Channel or to offshore islands linked by rail causeways to the mainland (as in the case of the German holiday island of Sylt).

Car train fares

Car train services can be pricey, but at the top end they offer a very high level of comfort with overnight journeys in modern sleeping cars, along with a good on-board restaurant where you can enjoy dinner before retiring for the night. It is possible to board a train in northern Germany mid-afternoon and wake up next morning on the shores of the Mediterranean, having traveled a thousand miles but without having spent a cent on fuel.

Some operators offer discount options for travelers prepared to book very early or last minute. Early bookers with ÖBB, for example, can pick up a one way ticket for car and driver from Vienna to Hamburg from just €133, a journey which by road would take about 11 hours and cost (depending on vehicle size) upwards of €80 in fuel.

National and international services: DB Autozug

DB Autozug has a great one-way special for inner-German route, offering fares of €99, which covers car transport and couchette accommodation for the driver. For international journeys, there is a €149 fare (similarly for vehicle plus driver with couchette).

Regular fares for international journeys for those not wanting to book well in advance start at €179 for car with driver or €319 including car transport plus couchettes for up to five passengers. Not cheap, we know, but really an amazing way to start or end a European car tour. And, once your car rental company has told you that their one-way drop charge from Germany to the Med is over €400, the idea of using a car train to return to your point of origin begins to look like a decidedly attractive proposition.

Car train services are also a credible option for British travelers looking for southern sunshine who want to avoid the long grind south on continental motorways.  The DB Autozug terminal at Düsseldorf is less than a three-hour drive from Channel ports.

The post Alternative Transportation: European Car Trains appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

The Srebrenica massacre

It was fifteen years ago this summer that 8,000 Bosnian men and boys were ruthlessly murdered in and around Srebrenica. This small city in a quiet valley in eastern Bosnia will probably never come to terms with the atrocities that propelled Srebrenica into the headlines in 1995. As a site of violence and tragedy, Srebrenica exerts enormous symbolic power. It is a milestone in our historic consciousness, just as Auschwitz is for another generation.

Thanotourism: Auschwitz and the Museum of Free Derry

Have you been to Auschwitz? If so, you have dabbled in “thanotourism” (as the specialists dub travel that evinces feelings of grief). And would you happily visit the Museum of Free Derry if you were in Ireland? There you will hear the terrified screams of protesters as they were gunned down by British soldiers on a sunny Sunday afternoon in January 1972.

Tourism relating to the Ulster Troubles has become a considerable industry in Derry, as a community shattered by a horrible history tries to rebuild – and with considerable success. Just as Srebrenica is trying too. The violence inflicted on this one community in a ten-day period in mid-July 1995 is hard for us to fathom. Yet fifteen years on, Srebrenica is back in business. Fathers, brothers and sons died. But the women of Srebrenica have taken the lead in revitalizing the town.

The burden of history

Srebrenica has a beautiful memorial to those who perished. The locals want you to go there to see it. But they want you to visit for other reasons too. Tourism is a marvelous way of regenerating the local economy, and Srebrenica needs its share of the tourist dollar. And a steady flow of visitors helps communities escape the heavy burden of history.

After all, Srebrenica, just like Oscwiecim (the Polish town better known by the German rendering Auschwitz), are not only places of the dead, but also of the living. Bosnia is one of Europe’s most fascinating countries. It might now be time to see for yourself and visit Srebrenica.

The post Dark Tourism: Auschwitz and Srebrenica appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Like when you want to inquire about transport options to Montenegro from Bulgaria and your handy Bulgarian phrase book only gets you so far with the impatient cashier. After all, how are you supposed to know that locally, Montenegro is known as Crna Gora?

Never fear, it’s ‘ole Wikipedia to the rescue. Consulting this handy Wikipedia directory in advance might just save you the energy you need to climb Ano Poli when you travel from Sofia to Solun (Thessaloniki). We love that the Web site lists city names in most European languages and with a version that uses the Latin alphabet. This way, we can at least approximate the local pronunciation.

Oh, and if you’re in Budapest and want to meet me in Dubrovnik, ask for a flight to Raguza pronto.

Wandering Cheapo Sunnia Ko is a wanderer at heart and primarily supports this habit as a teacher at Plovdiv University in Bulgaria. She is currently on a cross-Balkan trek from Plovdiv to Sibenik, Croatia, where she hopes to find the Adriatic as splendid and turquoise as she remembers it to be.

The post Wandering Cheapo: Localize Your Lingo appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.