The Mackintosh factor

Devotees of Charles Rennie Mackintosh should not however now delete Glasgow from their itineraries. The House for an Art Lover in the city’s Bellahouston Park is a fine piece of Mackintosh art nouveau style—even though construction of the building did not start until more than sixty years after the architect’s death.

It is also worth making an excursion out of Glasgow to visit the Hill House in Helensburgh. It is just 45 minutes from Glasgow by train (with departures twice hourly from the lower level of Glasgow Queen Street station). At the Hill House you’ll see one of Mackintosh’s finest designs. It was completed in 1904, and the real draw is that Mackintosh also handled the interior designs—some visitors find them excessively stylised, but we like the manner in which grace and severity stand in counterpoint to one another.

If you have more appetite for art nouveau design upon returning to the city from Helensburgh, the obvious next stop is the Willow Tea Rooms which nowadays trade at two addresses: 217 Sauchiehall Street and 97 Buchanan Street. Neither has the original Mackintosh furnishings, but there’s still heaps of design flair—and the classic high-backed art nouveau chairs are more comfy than they look.

Art nouveau around Europe

Fans of art nouveau style will find splendid examples of the genre in cities across Europe. There are those whimsical entrances to Parisian métro stations, a feast of facades in Brussels and a too-often-overlooked magnificent art nouveau entrance hall to the main railway station in Prague.

Ultimately, though, art nouveau was a provincial movement, one that found its fullest expression not in capital cities but in secondary cities. So in Germany, look to Darmstadt rather than Berlin. In France, Nancy cuts a dash in art nouveau design.

Other cities where art nouveau architecture makes a good showing are Barcelona, Subotica (mentioned in a previous EuroCheapo post), Liepaja in Latvia, Zakopane in Poland and even Ålesund in Norway. If that last one sounds a tad improbable, there is a simple explanation. The center of the Norwegian coastal town was destroyed in a fire in 1904. It was rebuilt immediately thereafter, and remains to this day a showpiece example of coherent urban design which is full of art nouveau accents.

Glasgow may be mourning, but Ålesund is a reminder that the fire card plays two ways. Were it not for that devastating fire in 1904, Ålesund would not today be a magnet for lovers of art nouveau.

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The picturesque old train, comprised of half a dozen wooden cars dating back to the railway’s opening in 1912, was the island’s first electrified railway. It was constructed to connect Mallorca’s largest city, Palma, with the then-booming town of of Sóller, located about an hour’s tug away, over the mountains on the northwest side of the island.

What awaited on the other side of the mountain shouldn’t be missed. Here are five reasons that Sóller makes a great day trip (or escape) from Palma:

Boarding the train to Sóller.

1. The train ride from Palma

The vintage train is reason unto itself to visit Sóller. Originally constructed to transport olives and oranges (and their growers) between the town and the city, the train today serves mostly tourists. Still, it’s a worthwhile endeavor, offering interesting views of Palma as you pull out of town, before climbing the nearby Sierra de Tramuntana mountains. Winding its way up, crossing bridges, and heading through tunnels, the hour-long train ride offers great views and plenty of photo-ops.

The ride costs €19.50, per person, round-trip. Seven journeys a day run between the two towns during high season. (Read more on the train’s Web site.)

Sóller’s main square, anchored by the cathedral.

2. Medieval town.

The train depot, constructed in 1912, is situated just steps away from the city’s medieval place of worship, the Cathedral of St. Bertholomew, named after the patron saint of this town of 15,000. The cathedral, which celebrated its 500th anniversary in 2010, offers three distinct styles in one building: Medieval (the original structure), Baroque (the church’s ornate interior and extension), and Modernist (the curvy, Gaudi-esque facade).

Once outside, wander the narrow, Medieval streets, with buildings constructed closely together to block the powerful summer sun. Indeed today, the streets, nearly always in shadows, offer a cool respite.

As you walk, smell: The air carries a floral scent. The town is surrounded by orange groves and mountainsides packed with olive trees. This sweet smell seems to settle far below along the Sóller’s narrow streets.

Inside the Modernist Museum.

3. Art Nouveau / Modernismo

It’s not all Medieval in Sóller’s old center. During difficult economic times during the 19th century, many Mallorcan’s fled the island, seeking opportunities elsewhere, including in the United States. Some of these former residents of Sóller (and their descendents) made their fortunes and returned to Sóller, bringing with them great wealth and in interest in constructing new homes in the “hot” style of the day, Catalan Modernism (Art Nouveau), a look made famous by Gaúdi.

Walking through the center of Sóller, modernist facades sit comfortably next to structures constructed 400 years prior. Interestingly, the modernist style was so en vogue 100 years ago that many of these tell-tale elements (fanciful, curving doorways, windows, staircases), were standardized and picked out of a catalog. A student of Gaudi’s even spent time in the city, working on the cathedral’s facade.

Fans of art nouveau architecture shouldn’t miss the Ca’n Prunera, an early 20th-century mansion that opened as the city’s Modernist Museum in 2009. The museum lets visitors wander through a painstakingly restored modernist residence, and offers a selection of modern paintings, photographs and sculpture.

Hopping on the train to Sóller’s port.

4. Another tram!

There’s more to Sóller than the old town, of course. A few kilometers away beckons the port, with its beach and harbor. To get there, you can walk it, or hop on another wooden tram (again operated by the Ferrocarril de Soller). The tram departs every 30 minutes (in high season / 60 minutes during the winter) from the street just outside the train station. Round-trip tickets are €10 per person.

This ride, passing along the city’s main street, past stores and residences, is less thrilling than its mountain climbing sibling, but it still offers a pleasant 15-minute stroll. Things get more interesting, of course, when it makes a final turn, pulling along…

Pulling into the Port of Sóller.

5. The Port de Sóller

Arriving into the Port de Sóller by tram is a bit of a thrill, as you cruise straight down the main drag, hugging the harbor, easing past couples flopped onto blankets and children frolicking in the calm waters of the bay, which stretches out into the Mediterranean. And wrapping around its shores, the purple-green mountains of the Serra de Tramuntana look down.

To the right side of the tram, a line of hotels and restaurants offer a respite from the sun. Indeed, I recharged with a favorite, local drink: freshly squeezed orange juice. Enjoy a glass, while contemplating the role that this sweet fruit played in the town’s history.

Getting there: This post is part of a series sponsored by airberlin, which now offers flights between New York and Palma de Mallorca. Find rates and special offers on airberlin.com.

The post Mountains, Beaches, and Modernismo: 5 reasons to visit Sóller, Spain appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

This post presents a handful of the city’s great structures categorized according to style; a kind of architecture tour of Prague, if you will. And remember, it doesn’t cost anything to gaze at some of the finest examples of architecture in the world.

Gothic

Charles Bridge
Stare Mesto and Mala Strana

Construction of this epic bridge began in 1337 and was completed in the 15th century. The most distinguishing features of this stone bridge are its Baroque sculptures and statues that were added to the sides of it in the 1700’s. (Today’s are just replicas of the originals, which are housed inside the National Museum.)

Three towers are found at the entrances to the bridge, one on the side headed to Old Town and two on the Mala Strana side. The latter is considered one of Europe’s finest examples of civil Gothic architecture. As one of Prague’s most visited sites, it’s advised to visit at the crack of dawn or late night (which actually turn out to be the hours which suit this wonder best).

Others Gothic structures: The House of the Stone Bell, St. Vitus Cathedral, The Convent of St. Agnes

Renaissance

Ball Game Hall
Hradcany

Ball Game Hall. Photo: Carolyn Will

Located within the Royal Garden of the castle, this sgraffito-adorned building was first built in the 16th century to serve as the Royal Game Hall for an early form of tennis and badminton. After transforming into the Royal Stables in the 17th century and then a military barrack and storeroom, the building was struck by a bomb during World War II and burned down to its outer wall.

Its restoration was completed in 1952, but the Royal Garden wasn’t opened again until after 1989. But the communists left their mark. On the front of the building, facing the garden, look out for their own sgraffito: the number five (for the “Five Year Plan”) and a hammer and sickle.

Other Renaissance examples: The Royal Summer Palace, Star Summer Palace, The House at the Minute

Baroque

Strahov Monastery
Strahovské nádvorí 132/1
Hradcany

Dating back to the 12th century, Strahov is Prague’s second oldest monastery (and it remains functioning today). Comprised of several buildings, its baroque library—including both the Theological Hall and the Philosophical Hall—are not to be missed. As it is perched atop a hill, its location offers some wonderful views of the city.

Other Baroque examples: St. Nicholas Cathedral, Troja Chateau, The Sternberg Palace.

Art Noveau

The Municipal House
Námestí Republiky 1090/5
Stare Mesto

Including gilded decorations, ceramics, stained glass windows, and murals, the Municipal House’s details, in combination with its impressive size, make it perhaps Prague’s most shining example of the style. Completed in 1911, its remarkable outcome is the work of prominent Czech sculptors and painters, including Alfons Mucha.

Saloun’s Villa
Slovenská 4/2499,
Vinohrady

A more off-the-beaten-path example, but definitely worth the journey, this great little structure is the former studio of Czech sculptor Ladislav Saloun, a leading figure of Czech Art Noveau symbolism. Designated as a protected cultural monument in 1958, today it serves as a teaching space for guest professors of the Academy of Fine Arts. You’ll find it in Prague’s Vinohrady neighborhood, to the side of a long set of stairs that run beside a park. Look out for the sculpted head above the doorway.

Cubism

House of the Black Madonna
Celetná 569/34
Stare Mesto

Cubism is special to the Czech Republic, as it is the only country where you will find Cubist architecture. One of the most renowned examples, the House of the Black Madonna was completed between 1911-1912 by architect Josef Gocar–one of the members of a famous group of Czech artists and architects who worked in the style. Appropriately, the house is home to the Museum of Czech Cubism and the Grand Café Orient, which boasts a cubist interior.

Kovarovic Villa
Libušina 3
Vyšehrad

Inspired by the works of Braque and Picasso, this exceptional villa is a must see. Not only is the house done in the cubist style, but also the garden layout, the surrounding metal fence and even the stairs.

Cubist Lamppost
Jungmannovo Namesti

It’s the only cubist lamppost in the world. Enough said.

Functionalism

Manes
Masarykovo nábreží 250/1
Stare Mesto

Opened in 1930, the Manes building is considered one of Europe’s top Functionalist buildings. Comprised of three floors, with the river running underneath it, Manes’ function since it was formed has been to serve as a visual arts exhibition hall.

Muller Villa
Nad hradním vodojemem 642/14
Strešovice

One of the most influential architects of Modern European architecture, Adolf Loos built this cubed-shaped home for the family after which it was named. Done in a design called “Raumplan,” the interior was conceived as spaces–as opposed to rooms, sections or floor plans–that flow into one another via multi-levels, according to function.

Communist Era

Panelaks

From Prague’s highest points you can’t not see these structures. Situated on the outskirts of the city, these tall, gray boxes, sitting side by side, were actually inspired by Le Corbusier’s idea of people living in small, efficient cities. However, the outcome was blank buildings that feel completely devoid of inspiration. Due to the more affordable costs, this is where a large percentage of Praguers live today.

Other Communist examples: Kotva department store, The Zizkov Television Tower (as this is the highest structure in Prague, you can’t miss it on the skyline. It was started by the communists and is today characterized by large sculpted children climbing up its sides, made by controversial Czech artist David Cerny).

Post 1989

The Dancing House
Rašínovo nábreží 1981/80
Nove Mesto

Not much has been done in the way of interesting modern architecture in Prague at this point. The Dancing Building however is the one exception. Built by Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunic between 1992 and 1996, the structure rests on a formerly vacant riverfront plot where the building before had been destroyed by a bomb at the end of WWII. It’s sometimes referred to as the “Fred and Ginger Building,” as it was made to resemble two dancers.

The post Prague: Architecture history on tour, from Gothic to Gehry appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

With plenty of Eurocrats flaunting their nontaxable income, Brussels can be a tricky place for Cheapos. But eating and shopping in Brussels don’t have to cost an arm and a leg (although they can, if that’s what you’re into). Let me give you a few splurge options–and their budget alternatives.

Chocolate souvenirs

It’s indisputable that Belgians know how to make phenomenal chocolate. You can choose from a number of chocolatiers in the historic Old City, although you’d be wise to veer away from the perennial mall faves like Godiva and Neuhaus. If you want to splurge, you should look no further than the museum-like Pierre Marcolini boutique (39, Grote Zavel). Marcolini has some of the most inventive and delicious truffles, and you can even buy them by the piece.

Still, Marcolini’s gorgeous works of art don’t come cheap. That’s where Leonidas (12, Galerie du Centre and throughout the city) steps in. Though Leonidas’ truffles are good enough to be sold in upscale department stores abroad (i.e. Galeries Lafayette), they’re at the bottom of the steep chocolate hierarchy in Belgium, making them absurdly affordable. A 250g box goes for €5—and makes for a great souvenir.

Lunch with a view

Musical Instrument Museum. Photo: Vainsang

The Musical Instruments Museum (2, Hofberg) is housed in a gorgeous Art Nouveau mansion, and its terrace affords a stunning view of the city. The top floor cafe also happens to offer good bistro food, friendly service and a chance to mingle with the city’s Bright Young Things. But, with drinks and dessert, even its lunch deal can run close to €20.

For a cheap meal with a fine view, grab a sandwich from a bakery. Take the glass elevator up to Place Polaert, from where you have a beautiful panorama of the city–tout gratuit.

Art Nouveau elegance

Brussels is arguably the capital of Art Nouveau. The granddaddy of the movement, Victor Horta, lived the way he preached in a beautiful house. Today, the turn-of-the-century house is a museum (25, rue Américaine) that showcases gorgeous stained glass, beautiful arches and elegant wrought iron decorations. The only trouble is, it’s open only three hours a day, with visitors snaking around the block. Plus, admission is, at €8, not cheap.

As an alternative, you can head to the tourist information center and grab the helpful downtown Art Nouveau map that highlights some of the best examples of the movement. The whole city is your Art Nouveau museum, free of charge.

Antiques

Le Sablon square is the address for exclusive antique shopping. On weekends, when vendors set up tents, you’ll see well-heeled Parisians strolling with wads of cash. The stores surrounding the square are posh, everyday of the week.

If you’re less than awash in cash, you should beeline straight to the Place du Jeu de Balle, a flea market in the gentrified but still charming Marolles. It’s the kind of place where you’ll see 18th century dressers next to piles of used t-shirts. You might find stupendous reproductions of Magritte–or an oil portrait of someone’s great grandma.

And if you want to keep shopping, the surrounding streets are dotted with eclectic boutiques. (This neighborhood might be the only place on earth that outnumbers Berlin’s number of per-capita vintage stores.)

Get there before hipsters like you and me ruin it forever. Oh, wait…

The post Luxurious Brussels and Cheapo Alternatives appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Coast to coaster

For centuries, agricultural conditions in the Czech Republic have proven ideal for growing hops. Historians place beer brewing as early as 859 AD. By 1200, most residents of the landlocked countryside had a home brew of their own. After the Velvet Revolution of 1989, investors started flooding into the Czech beer market, and the suds have been flowing ever since.

Today, the Czech population drinks an impressive (estimated) 156 liters of beer per person, per year. National brews, including Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, and Bernard, are served everywhere at anytime, even in breakfast cafés.

A half-liter of pivo ranges in price from CZK 24 to CZK 97 ($1.25 to $5 USD). Most pubs plunk drinks down on promotional coasters replete with enticing photos and slogans in the Western Slavik tongue. Grab yours… and maybe your neighbor’s, as well. They’ll be a hit back home.

While you’re at it…

Grab a bunch of arty Mucha postcards suitable for framing. Alfons Mucha was born in Ivancice, Moravia in 1860 and would later be attributed as the creator of the art nouveau art style. After dropping into a print shop in Paris, Mucha became an overnight sensation with his promotional poster for “Gismonda,” a popular play starring Sarah Bernhardt. Much postcards sell for CZK 12 ($.60 USD) to CZK 20 ($1 USD).

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