Simply show up with empty bottles or boxes and fill them up with the wine of your choice. It’s typically cheaper than buying a bottle in the supermarket and, most importantly, the wines are of high quality and integrity.

Here are five places I recommend for filling up with wine on tap in Florence:

Enoteca Alla Sosta dei Papi
Via Borgo La Croce, 81r
Neighborhood: Sant’Ambrogio

Located right down the road from Sant’Ambrogio market, this enoteca is a perfect place to fill up on wine after you get your groceries from the market. They offer six or seven wines on tap, almost all from local family-owned wineries. Their most inexpensive red wine is a Montepulciano, at €2.60/liter, while their most popular is the Montalcino for €3.30/liter.

If you are looking for a basic red wine, I would recommend one of their “table” wines: the Rosso Toscano Chianti and the Nero d’Avola (Sicilian), both for €2.80/liter. My personal favorite so far is their Chardonnay for €2.70/liter.

One of the special aspects of this enoteca is that you can organize little (or big) “Apericena” events here. For about €15 a person, you can choose a wine and eat from a buffet of local Tuscan specialties, like local meats and cheeses, bruschetta and other goodies.

Fattoria San Michele a Torri
Via dell’Agnolo, 101
Neighborhood: Santa Croce

Fattoria San Michele a Torri offers a smaller selection of wine on tap, but the wines are all from grapes that are biologiche (organic). I am obsessed with their Merlot (€3.50/liter), but their red and white table wines are also amazing (€2.40/liter).

I would also recommend buying your bread here. Although it is a bit more expensive than what you will find at the supermarket, it is well worth the extra euro. Baked in a wood fired oven, the loaves taste great with local cheeses (which you can also buy here).

San Michele is where all my friends from this neighborhood go to get wine—it’s always packed with locals, a great sign.

I Vinaio
Via delle Carra, 16
Neighborhood: Piazza S. Jacopino

I Vinaio an itsy bitsy little wine and beer shop on Via delle Carre, near Piazza San Jacopino. The wines on tap cost around €2- €5 a bottle and all come from Tuscany or Sicily. I bought a red “Morello” that was amazing for only €3 here.

Unlike most wine stores in Florence, this store also carries a wide selection of artisan beer. Though there is no beer on tap, their prices for bottled specialty beer are not extraordinarily high, so it’s easy enough to come and try a couple from their selection to find one you really like. The owners are very knowledgeable, so if you are unsure of what to try, just ask them and they will help you select the perfect wine or beer to fit your tastes. If you are in the mood for something bubbly, they also have prosecco on tap, how amazing is that?!

Vigna Vittoria
Via Fabroni Giovanni, 14R
Neighborhood: Piazza S. Jacopino

The superstore!  Vigna Vittoria has a huge selection of wine on tap. What makes this place great is their extensive selection of wines from all around Italy, not just Tuscany. White wines from Venice, Liguria, red wines from Piedmont, Puglia, Sardinia etc. and prices that are very affordable. (Basic red/white table wines start at €1.20/liter.)

Plan on coming here when you have lots of time—preferably in the morning or late evenings when it is least busy—so that you will have a chance to talk with a staff member about their selection.

BVeg
Via degli Orti Oricellari, 6
Neighborhood: Santa Maria Novella Station

Not only does Bveg offer some of the best vegetarian food in Florence, but this little bistro has a great selection of beer, hence the name B(eer)Veg(etarian). They have about six beers on tap, all of which are exclusively from Italian breweries.

I recommend the Brewfist Jale, but if you are unsure of what you want, sit at the bar and—if it isn’t too busy—the bartender will let you sample a couple of beers. An average-sized beer costs around €5 and if you come after 7 p.m. they offer a small aperitivo: a selection of delicious little finger foods (some of which are made using the beer!).

This is a place to come and enjoy a glass of beer or wine with friends in a tranquil atmosphere—with great music and free Wi-Fi too!

The post Florence: Buy your wine like the locals… on tap! appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

So here’s what to do to keep the coins in your pocket and the wine in your tummy.

Squat a Piazza

If you’re not picky on location but like to be around people, here’s what I suggest. Make your way to one of the piazzas, like Piazza Sant’Ambrogio and find yourself a seat on the steps of the church or any of the benches.

Next, resist the temptation to drink at one of the surrounding establishments. They will be overpriced and lousy. Instead, walk the neighboring streets until you find a little store (some call it a “kiosk”) that sells cheap beer and wine. There are lots of these in Florence and lots of people do it.

Purchase a beverage, return to the piazza, soak up the ambiance and toast the stars.

Fun bars for aperitivo

If you are not big fan of “piazza guzzle” here’s a few bars that are fun. First try “Volume” in Piazza Santo Spirito with its vintage/museum deco. Or the nearby La Cité (still my personal favorite) with its book-covered walls and small music stage.

Or maybe it’s food you want with your aperitivo, so try Kitsch Bar where you’ll have access to a full buffet of Italian specialties during aperitivo time.

If pubs are more your thing, try The Lion’s Fountain Pub, which is usually overflowing onto the square.

Bottoms Up

Have you heard of Vin Santo? If not you need to try it. Often made in Tuscany’s very own Chianti Region, Vin Santo is a strong sweet wine served either before or after dinner (or at any other time of the day that you see fit). You can pick it up anywhere that sells wine, but my suggestion would be one of the larger supermarkets where it is definitely cheaper (Coop, Esselunga, etc.).

And if you are completely new to the Italian drinking scene, consider trying an ice cold shot of Limoncello, a lemon liqueur from the south or a shot of Grappa, Italy’s answer to Tequila.

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Many of the most jaw-dropping vistas have been taken over by Rome’s most exclusive hotels, yet there are still a few rooftop gems scattered about the city accessible to Cheapos. The following watering holes on high are definitely worth your while—and they won’t cost you a fortune.

Caffeteria Italia
Via di San Pietro in Carcere
Telephone: 06 6780664

No other place in Rome boasts panoramic views like the terrace of the Vittoriano Monument in Piazza Venezia. True, it will take you nearly 200 steps to schlep to the top of the “Wedding Cake” monument where the “Terrazza delle Quadrighe” (Terrace of the Four-Horse Chariots) is located. But the real treat is the lovely café located on its lower terrace.

Stop in on your way up to enjoy a glass of wine while taking in the views of the Roman Forum and much of the historic center. Alternatively, for those who can’t handle the stairs, there are two glass elevators that will take you to the very top for €7.

Cafe Chiostro
Via della Pace, 26 (behind Piazza Navona)
Telephone: 06 68809035 int.26
Closed Mondays
Web site

Tucked away like a little secret on the second floor of the Chiostro del Bramante church and convent, this charming café offers visitors drinks, coffee and tea at tables overlooking the beautiful cloister. If you decide to pop in for a drink, you’ll have to make it an early one, as the cafeteria closes at 7:30 pm.

Il Fontanone Cocktail Bar del Gianicolo
Via Garibaldi, 35
Telephone: 334 5282284
Closed in the winter
Web site

Tourists flock to the top of the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) to get a snapshot of the domes and monuments that dot the Eternal City’s skyline.

After you’ve taken in the picture-perfect view, head to the trendy cocktail bar and enjoy an early evening aperitivo or an after-dinner drink. Aperitivos are usually served from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., and the price (€10-€20) includes delicious snacks.

Summer Drink Tip: Aperol Spritz

A good Italian cocktail to try during the spring and summer months is an Aperol Spritz. It contains Aperol, a bitter orange alcoholic soda, white wine and sparkling water.

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Luckily for you, Florence does have plenty open in August. The main tourist attractions and centrally located restaurants and shops generally remain open to meet the demands of summer visitors. In fact, you’ll find there are many advantages to visiting this picture-perfect city during this hot month.

Here are a few of my favorite reasons to head here and stick around (if you can stand the heat, that is…).

Less crowds and commotion

While the amount of tourists visiting the city remains more or less the same, almost all Italians are on vacation in the mountains or on the beach. While you may miss out on some interaction with the locals, you will benefit from the ease of an empty city, very quiet weekends and less hustle and bustle. Even in the main tourist areas you’ll notice the slower pace of the summer.

Summer nights and concerts

When the warmth arrives in Florence, the city’s nightlife welcomes it with open arms. Open-air concerts and parties are scheduled for every night during the summer. Granted, things do tend to slow down a bit in August, but there are still plenty of events—free and paying—to choose from.

For example, the summer concert series Live On, at the large fortress near the train station, La Fortezza da Basso, offers a wide range of concerts, the majority of which are free, as well as a place to dance and drink in the open air.

If you’re looking for something more low-key, the former prison-turned-cultural space Le Murate, right near Piazza Beccaria, offers aperitivos every Monday night. During the month of August, the post-aperitivo entertainment includes presentations of short films and documentaries from all over the world.

Gelato

Ok, I know you can get gelato all year round and in all parts of Italy, but come on, what is better on a scorching hot day in the Tuscan capital (and disputed home of the luscious snack) than three solid meals of icy creamy gelato? You could start with a breakfast of fruity sorbetto topped with whipped cream, linger over a hearty lunch of nocciola (hazelnut) and pistacchio and finish off your night with some rich cioccolato fondente (dark chocolate) and crema (cream).

After all that, you may even need a gelato al caffe’ (coffee ice cream) to help digest. I’ll be writing about my Florence’s best gelato places soon, but in the meantime go to my favorite, Perche’ No (literally named Why Not?) in Via dei Tavolini, right off the main shopping street of Via Calzaiuoli. In addition to the central location, it boasts gelato made on the premises from all natural ingredients. The shop even has vegan ice cream!

Extended hours at the Palazzo Vecchio

The Palazzo Vecchio will remain open every night, except Thursdays, from 9 a.m. to midnight. These late-night openings allow the public an even more special look at one of the most important buildings of past and present Florence.

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Between 7 PM and 9 PM,  most bars in Italy offer a small buffet to their customers—upon purchase of a drink, naturally. In some places, the aperitivo has become an art form. By picking the right bar, you can enjoy a full, all-you-can-eat buffet for the price of your Campari Spritz. To get your fill in Florence, check out these places:

Kitsch
Via San Gallo or Piazza Beccaria

This bar is famous for its abundant spread, and there will be the crowds to prove it. Try to arrive around 7 or 7:30 PM to get a table, there are even a few outside if the weather is nice. Arriving later usually means waiting for a table and then having people successively waiting for you to leave.

For the price of €8, Kitsch offers you your choice of drink and a buffet of cured meats, cheeses, hot and cold rice and pasta dishes, grilled vegetables, and a few meat dishes. Don’t be afraid of the hard-boiled egg covered in a pink sauce. I can’t tell you what it is, but it’s delicious!

Moyo
Via de’ Benci, near Santa Croce
website

The dark mood lighting and “M”-shaped chairs may be a bit much in terms of décor, but don’t let that take away from the reasonably-priced drinks and well-balanced buffet. For about €7, you’ll find mini sandwiches, omelettes, rice and pasta salads, and a few hot dishes. The offerings are a bit lighter than what’s at Kitsch, but the bar is usually less packed and has a more sophisticated vibe.

Pop Café’
Piazza Santo Spirito
website

In terms of aperitivi, this may be a bit of an alternative spot, providing a good vegetarian buffet and some really good people watching. Drinks range from €4 for wine up to €6 for a cocktail. Included are various vegetarian foods,  such as couscous, rice salads, and potato dishes.

It’s better to sit outside, even if it’s crowded and you’re forced to the sidewalk of the piazza, because the Pop Café’s interior is small and narrow. But that’s exactly the point of Pop: to eat and drink cheaply and go outside and mingle. You’ll find a nice mix of Italians and foreigners, and as the night goes on the most “picturesque” people come out of the woodwork to provide some notable post-aperitivo entertainment.

So go ahead and try these aperitivi and more! Given the popularity and lure of the aperitivo, bars are constantly changing and offering more.  So don’t hesitate to experiment and sample to find the right aperitivo for you.

The post Florence Aperitivos: Free delicious food for the price of a drink appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

The typical spread can be something as modest as olives, cheeses and potato chips to something as overwhelming and awe-inspiring as pasta dishes, pizza slices, bruschetta, meats, sautéed vegetables and fruit salad. Unlike the American happy hour, drinks are the regular price or slightly more — but come with unlimited admission to the food bar. The usual aperitivo starts at 6 or 7 PM and lasts until 9, and as little as one drink—alcoholic or not—can be your ticket to one of the most delicious secrets in Italy.

Do as the Milanese do…

Although it is entirely possible to make an entire free dinner of aperitivo, the real test is to act like the Milanese, who delicately graze through the line, giving the food the respect it deserves.

As an American student studying in Milan, amazed by the delicious food and blindsided by the dismal exchange rate, my fellow expats and I were not so sophisticated. We would dash to the food immediately after the waitress walked away with our drink order, returning with our hands guarding our heaps of food, poised to catch the last piece of focaccia from falling to the ground. The locals, still dressed in their crisp and stylish work attire, would watch us with amusement as they nibbled at the vegetables and cheeses, then sampled the more elaborate dishes.

After all, the Milanese have had time to perfect their technique. With roots in ancient Rome and more direct ancestors in the 1800s, aperitivo is a well-established Italian tradition, particularly in Northern Italy. The modern aperitivo began to take shape in the 1920s in Milan—the city became known as “the capital of aperitivo” as the tradition gained popularity—and consisted of drinks of Campari or similar bitters, accompanied by simple snack foods such as olives or nuts.

Since then, the food selection has exploded in size, and the drinks are no longer limited to traditional “aperitif” liquors—bitters, prosecco, martinis and white wine—though they still remain the most popular choices, with the decisive winner being the Negroni (1 part Gin, 1 part Campari, 1 part Sweet Vermouth). Through it all, the social essence of the aperitivo tradition has remained its unchangeable core.

“Aperitivo offers a moment of relaxation at the end of a day at work, where you can allow yourself the pleasure of conversation paired with the pleasure of good food,” says Grazia Mannozzi, author and professor at the University of Insubria, just outside Milan. “It is especially successful due to the pleasant climate of our country and the Italian passion for socializing,” she says, “as can also be seen in the ‘passeggiare’ tradition, in which people stroll in the piazzas and the main streets of the cities in the evening.” Mannozzi attends aperitivo approximately once a week, but says she knows of many people who attend far more frequently (“especially those without children to make dinner for!” she adds).

So many aperitivo options

The possibilities for aperitivo are endless. Walk into any neighborhood café and you’ll find a dozen tables crammed with friends and family, laughing and talking excitedly, very rarely sitting; standing for the excitement of a story, mingling with friends at other tables, passing along the bar filled with steaming plates and bowls.

Pick: Bar Tender
Piazza Morbegno (intersection of Via Varanini and Via Venini)

Bar Tender is our pick for “neighborhood bar.” Drinks are anywhere from €5.50 for a regular drink to €8 for a large drink. Service is prompt and friendly and the food selection is legendary—many Milanese claim it is the largest they have seen in the city. With various types of focaccia, pizza, and pasta dishes (and with servers that bring the plates around to the table to serve you seconds), you may find it difficult to wait until 9, when they clear the bar to make room for the delicious desserts.

Brera

Head to Brera, the artsy, bohemian district, and meander along its cobblestone streets where you’ll find friends, looking effortlessly hip with their colorful scarves, lingering over their white wine in the ivy-climbed patio cafés.

Pick: Radetzky Café
Via Largo La Foppa, 5

Drinks average about €8, and the buffet has all the elements of a standard aperitivo spread, yet nothing more. You pay, however, for the experience—considered one of the trendiest bars in Brera, this is the place to see and be seen. And its location in the primarily pedestrian-only streets of Brera guarantees that the party flows outside on warm nights, accumulating crowds of patrons drinking and smoking around the picturesque bar.

Navigli district

Care to have a drink in Venice? Take a trip to Milan’s Navigli district, where the canals—designed in 1482 by Leonardo da Vinci to import wine, food, and the marble needed to construct Milan’s elaborate Gothic Duomo—still carve through the narrow streets.

Along the still waters, lined with lights, the trendiest bars and restaurants compete for the largest and most exciting stuzzichini selections, as the university students compete with the blaring music. For an even more unique experience, step onto one of the houseboats docked in the canals, which offer aperitivo and often live music. Whether by land or by sea, most of the Navigli hot spots turn their buffets into dance floors later in the evening.

Pick: Slice
Via Ascanio Sforza, 9

Drinks are about €7, and the experience manages to combine an impressive food selection with a fun and trendy experience. You will probably not notice the burnt orange walls, animal prints and knick-knack decorations because you will be too busy filling up your plate. With standard wares such as focaccia, cold cuts, pasta, French fries, and even New York-style pizza, the word has gotten out; arrive by 7 PM at the latest before the line gets out of hand.

Piazza Duomo

For a more classic aperitivo experience, go no further than the heart of the city, Piazza Duomo. There you’ll find the more expensive bars, as they tend to cater to the large percentage of tourists who never stray from that sightseeing epicenter. But be careful—expensive does not necessarily translate into better or more food.

Inside the Galleria di Vittorio Emanuele lies Café Zucca, arguably the home of the aperitivo. A favorite hangout of Giuseppe Verdi and Arturo Toscanini after their performances at La Scala, the legendary opera house next door, “Zucca in Galleria” was owned by the Campari family, who lent their name to the traditional aperitif they invented. Consequently, Zucca is often considered the original aperitivo bar, and wears its history proudly. Though you’ll pay extra for the experience, soak up the historical ambiance as you gaze at the Duomo’s magnificent spires and pinnacles. Weaving in and out through the crowd of tourists, you’ll also hear the clicks of heels echoing along the marble floors as the shoppers pass by with their newly acquired Gucci and Prada treasures.

Pick: Caffè Miani Zucca In Galleria
In Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, in Piazza Duomo

Like few places in the city, Zucca has made a determined effort to remain in the style of the golden days of aperitivo. The keyword here is classic: classic, old-fashioned décor; classic, simple food selection (olives, potato chips and nuts); and classic, original aperitivo drinks (Negroni and the classic Milanese martini are most popular).

You can’t go wrong

With almost every bar and café in the city offering some version of aperitivo, the choices may seem overwhelming. But with obvious variations in ambiance, selection size, and prices, it is easy to select an unforgettable aperitivo experience. Just follow the pace of the Milanese in their leisurely tribute to food and friends; that is, if that new plate of risotto will let you.

About the author:
Jenna Weiner is a senior English major at Georgetown University. She is the former Editor-in-Chief and current News Editor of The Georgetown Independent, where she writes mostly feature articles. A native of Boston, Massachusetts, she travels whenever possible and lived in downtown Milan for four months.

The post Milan: Aperitivo bars offer delicious dining, cheapo-style appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.