amelie – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Paris: 6 favorite cheap restaurants in the Abbesses neighborhood https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-6-favorite-cheap-eats-in-the-abbesses-neighborhood.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-6-favorite-cheap-eats-in-the-abbesses-neighborhood.html#comments Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:40:23 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=11277 When it comes to love and chow in Paris, I’m as loyal they come, but I ain’t easy. Before it’ll catch my heart, any eatery had better possess a certain ambience, flattering lighting, an affordable menu, gastronomical consistency, and friendly service. If they recognize my devotion with a smile, a little wave or a complimentary » Read more

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When it comes to love and chow in Paris, I’m as loyal they come, but I ain’t easy. Before it’ll catch my heart, any eatery had better possess a certain ambience, flattering lighting, an affordable menu, gastronomical consistency, and friendly service. If they recognize my devotion with a smile, a little wave or a complimentary cocktail, well then I am hooked—make no bones about it.

So, for your moveable feasting pleasure, I got out my little red book and whipped up a short list of favorite cheap eats in my Abbesses neighborhood. The joints listed here will not only save you money but enhance your overall travel experience.

As my grandmother would say, saving for a trip starts at home. So set down that fancy frappuccino, and wait to treat yourself to a “Sez” draft at a café above the Seine instead!

Getting there: Métro Abbesses, Pigalle or Blanche

1. Le Coquelicot (“The Poppy”)
24 rue des Abbesses
Boulangerie

Here’s where I buy my ham and cheese sandwiches, along with their award-winning “Piccola” baguettes.

Decor: Shabby-chic with hand-painted murals
Vibe: Fresh and bubbly
Perks: Fabulous view of the bakers kneading, perky staff, and terrace seating
Try: Jambon-fromage baguette, lemon bars, pain au chocolat, and Piccola baguettes

Tips: As always in Paris, takeout is cheaper, so make a selection and picnic at nearby Place des Abbesses and its little Square Jehan Rictus by the “J’taime Wall.” Love your bread straight from the oven? Ask and they will tell.

La Pignatta restaurant Paris

La Pignatta

2. La Pignatta
89 rue des Martyrs
Italian

Here’s where I buy take-out pizzas for my dinner parties. With their gravity-defying pizza tossing tricks and brick oven, they’ve never let me or my shindig guests down.

Decor: Old World charm accessorized with checkered tablecloths and travel posters
Vibe: ‘S Wonderful, ‘S Marvelous
Perks: Terrace seating, personable staff, hefty portions with Cheapo price tags attached
Try: Pizza Caprese or Pizza Pignatta, topped with a roasted egg and crème fraîche

Tips: Again, take-out is cheaper. From here it’s just a romantic stroll up to Sacre Coeur. For another picnic idea, check out their fresh Italian salads. I’ve got a thing going on with the tri-salad sampler.

Le Saint Jean, Paris

The terrace at Le Saint Jean

3. Le Saint Jean
16 rue des Abbesses

Like the 25 little black dresses that hang in my closet, there really isn’t an occasion that le Saint Jean is perfectly suited for, night and day.

Decor: Classic Paris diner with cozy wooden booths, bar, and photography
Vibe: Where’s Edith Piaf? I’m sure she’s here somewhere.
Perks: Terrace seating and occasional live music and dancing
Try: Omelets, hand-cut fries, salads, crème brulée, and French onion soup

Tips: Order house wine by the pitcher. Traditional French dishes are always available. Lost in translation? Just ask. The staff is friendly and helpful. The best people-watching tables are located on the far left, next to the rue André Antoine steps.

4. Le Mono
40 rue Véron
Togolese

Le Mono restaurant Paris

A birthday at Le Momo. Photo: Marcus Schubert

I love this place because the owner always manages to find a table for me, even on his busiest Saturday nights.

Decor: West African—bamboo, masks and popular art
Vibe: Very festive and so bruyant!
Perks: Large portions, engaging staff and a masterpiece playlist that includes King Mensah and Salif Keita!

Try: Djenkoumé (chicken in tomato sauce), grilled plantains and a cold Flag beer!

Tips: This is a great place to celebrate a birthday. Let them know ahead of time, leave your cake behind the counter, and they’ll happily stage a dramatic presentation—with music! (They won’t mention it, but it’s good form to tip for extra service like this.)

5. Le Relais Gascon
6 rue des Abbesses

Cheapos, this is where I go after a seeing movie at the historic movie house Studio 28, located just down the street. Here you’ll find big, inexpensive salads piled high with a variety of meats, cheeses and vegetables, and scrupulously topped with mountains of homemade, hand-cut garlic potatoes!

Decor: Traditional-rustic with wooden bar, mirrors, murals, and paintings
Vibe: Oh, so boisterous and bustling
Perks: Family-style seating on the second floor, terrace seating, and large portions
Try: One of the ten Salades Géantes with pommes de terre sautées à l’ail (think Mont Ventoux!)

Tips: The locals are also in awe of its old-school appeal, so arrive early to score seating. Also, order your house wine by the pitcher. It’s cheaper.

6. Café des Deux Moulins
15 rue Lepic

Café des Deux Moulins Paris

The glow of the Café des Deux Moulins

So why is the “café of two windmills” so unique et magnifique? Because it was featured in “Amélie“, that’s why! Stop by for an apéritif or post-dinner indulgence and rub elbows with other pilgrims.

Decor: Old-fashioned seating, hand-painted murals and classic bar
Vibe: Frenetic
Perks: Photo-op with the house gnome or exterior neon sign. Make the kids back home ga-ga with envy.
Try it: Picon-bière, a bittersweet blend of oranges and deep blue gentian flowers, typically served with a small draft beer. Mix and tipple!

Tip: Arrive around 5 PM for happy hour, starring discounted drinks. The voluptuous sweets are also heavenly.

Cheapos, make every meal an experience, after all, it was Julia Child’s very first lunch in France that changed her life, and set her cookbook project in motion. Years later she wrote, “I can still almost taste it. And thinking back on it now reminds me that the pleasures of the table and of life, are infinite. Toujours Bon Appétit!”

Oui-oui, Bon Appétit!

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Paris Cinema: Classic films at Studio 28, and more https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-cheapo-night-out-cinema-at-studio-28-and-more.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-cheapo-night-out-cinema-at-studio-28-and-more.html#comments Wed, 27 May 2009 16:09:38 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=3946 When the sun sets in Paris, what’s an insomniac Cheapo to do? Why not take in a film? After all, cinema is as French as camembert cheese. With almost 400 theaters in Paris showing 600 films on any given day, choosing just one film can be daunting. First things first: Get your hands on a Pariscope, the » Read more

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When the sun sets in Paris, what’s an insomniac Cheapo to do? Why not take in a film? After all, cinema is as French as camembert cheese.

With almost 400 theaters in Paris showing 600 films on any given day, choosing just one film can be daunting.

First things first: Get your hands on a Pariscope, the weekly entertainment guide available at any newsstand, or visit Allocine.fr. (In cinema listings, “v.f.” stands for “version francaise,” meaning it’s dubbed in French with no subtitles. “V.o.” is “version originale,” which means the film is presented in its original language with subtitles in French.)

Spotlight on… Studio 28

My own favorite cinema is little Studio 28, the only movie house on the hill of Montmartre. With just 170 seats and about ten screenings a week, it has earned a special place in the Parisian filmscape.

Founded in 1928 (hence the name), it immediately carved a niche in history as the world’s first avant-garde art theater. Studio 28’s fame was secured when Salvador Dali and Luis Buñuel premiered one of the first surrealist films there: “L’Age d’Or” (The Golden Age).

Before you go

Today, Studio 28 provides a delightful experience while remaining relatively inexpensive, compared to other Paris movie theatres. During July, it offers a special reduced-fare series featuring international classics like “Rebel Without a Cause”, “East of Eden”, “Roman Holiday”, and “Double Indemnity”, among others.

The cinema offers a rare opportunity to experience films the way they were before the multiplex—it’s no wonder that Audrey Tautou’s “Amélie Poulain” headed to Studio 28 every Friday.

Also to note: Studio 28 maintains a rotating display of artwork, and showcases the hand- and footprints of famous actors and directors who have premiered films there.

A bar at the end of the lobby opens onto a small beer garden (enclosed in winter) where you can sit and have a drink or some snacks before the show. Once you’ve entered the auditorium, settle into your plush red seat, let your eyes adjust to the dark, and make sure you check out the old piano nearby. It last saw serious use when Charlie Chaplin showed his movies here. The large set of surrealist light fixtures in the same auditorium were created by artist/film director Jean Cocteau.

Practical info: Studio 28 is located at 10 rue Tholozé in the 18th arrondissement (Metros Abbesses or Blanche). Phone: 01 46 06 36 07, or check online for current listings. Tickets are usually €7.50 (students €6.30)

Other cinemas of note

La Pagode (57, rue de Babylone, 7th arrondissement), looks like a Japanese temple. It was built for the wife of the founder of Au Bon Marché, the oldest department store in the city.

Le Balzac (just off the Champs-Elysées at 1, rue Balzac) will make you feel like you’re on a steamship bound for a distant land, thanks to its porthole-and-riveted-steel-hatchways ocean liner decor.

At La Péniche Cinéma that particular aesthetic is carried even further, as the theater actually is a ship—well, a barge, anyway—docked at Parc de la Villette each winter, and then moored at La Villette canal basin all summer.

Le Grand Rex is by far the city’s largest and flashiest theater. Located at 1, boulevard Poissonnière (between Metros Grands Boulevards and Bonne Nouvelle), this humongous movie palace was erected in 1932 at the height of the Art Deco movement. It can seat audiences of 5,000.

Do you have a favorite Paris cinema? Tell us about it in the comment section below!

Also, read our post on how to score discount movie tickets in Paris.

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