abbesses – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Paris: Our 10 favorite shopping districts https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-our-10-favorite-shopping-districts.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-our-10-favorite-shopping-districts.html#respond Mon, 14 May 2012 17:36:41 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=23521 Tripping to Paris? Do you plan to shop? Well then, look and listen! Throughout Paris, there are shopping zones where you can buy anything, as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores carry similar items. Shopping fanatics, unite. Here’s a mini-guide. So dust off the printer! But first, a few tips: 1. In France, » Read more

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Tripping to Paris? Do you plan to shop? Well then, look and listen! Throughout Paris, there are shopping zones where you can buy anything, as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores carry similar items. Shopping fanatics, unite. Here’s a mini-guide. So dust off the printer!

But first, a few tips:

1. In France, most ATM machine “keys” do not include letters, just numbers. So what to do if you’ve memorized your password as “Rosebud” and not as “9693292”? Get thee quickly to a payphone booth! Here the keys include both numbers and letters. Voilà, Super Man! This little tip saves the day every time. (More advice about ATMs in Europe.)

2. Looking for discounts? Shop during the two annual Big Sale (“Solde”) periods in either January or June. This year’s summer sales launch on Wednesday, June 27, 2012.

3. Got to shop ’til you drop on a Sunday? I recommend hoofing it to either Abbesses or the Marais, where most stores are open seven days a week. Here you’ll also find beaucoup bars, cafés and pâtisseries going full blast!

4. Check out our full list of tips to save big on shopping Paris — everything you need to know for a perfect shopping spree!

Now on to the list:

Hoof it to the Porte de Vanves flea market!

Flea Markets

Bitten by the Flea? Visit the Marché aux puces de la Porte de Vanves (14th arrondissement, Métro Porte de Vanves) or the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (18th arrondissement, Métro: Porte de Clignancourt).

Tip! The 95-bus line connects both “puces.” See this Web site for a handy 2012 listing of Paris Fleas, brocantes and vide-greniers.

Trendy (and affordable) Labels

Looking to shake up your wardrobe with a little Zara, Etam or Naf-Naf? Here’s where I go-go for my Chains of Love: Boulevard Haussmann, rue de Rennes, and rue du Commerce, along with rue de Rivoli and Champs-Elysées.

During the Big Sales, the Zara at 40 rue de Rennes usually serves as one of “last stops” for the chain’s leftover clothing.

Bargain Bins

I often find my bargain bin bliss at the Sympa shops on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart (Métro Abbesses or Anvers). Located at the foot of Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre, the stock is always cha-cha-changing. Expect Best Mountain, Etam, Naf-Naf, Sinéquanone, and Undiz but at a fraction of their original cost.

Don your elbow pads and eat a healthy breakfast. Game on! (Read more about Sympa shops in Paris.)

Vintage Clothing

Throughout in Paris, you’ll find “friperies” (secondhand clothing shops) and “depôts-ventes” (consignment shops). I’d either book it to Abbesses (Métro Abbesses, 18th arrondissement) or the Marais (Métro Saint-Paul, 4th arrondissement).

Both have deep pockets of vintage clothing shops. Le Caverne à Fripes at 25 rue Houdon in Abbesses or FREE’P’STAR at 61 rue de la Verrerie in the Marais are peek-a-boo-worthy! (Read more about vintage clothing shops in Paris.)

Funky designer shops and studios

Rocking a fairy tale vibe, the skinny rue d’Orsel (Métro Abbesses or Anvers) is lined with a row of clothing shops and studios. Their kitschy, candied-colored vitrines always stop me in my tracks. Located in the textile district, the artists here play with the full spectrum of fabrics like there’s no tomorrow.

Check out: Zélia’s Sur la Terre Comme au Ciel, Marie’s Le Boudoir de Marie, and Kitty’s Killy Grind.

Fabric

At the foot of Sacré Coeur in Montmartre (Métro Abbesses or Anvers) is where I hunt for fabric and notions. I’d kick off the quest on Rue d’Orsel (north of Metro Anvers in the 18th). Flaunting four floors of textiles, notions and baubles, both the Marché Saint Pierre on 2 rue Charles Nodier, and the Tissus Reine at 5 Place Saint-Pierre (with its fifty miniature mannequins!) are definitely worth a visit. Yes, you’ve got the notion!

Looking for African Megawax cloth? Trek it to the nearby Barbès neighborhood. Tip! Most of the fabric is precut at six meters (about 18 feet, enough for two shirts or dresses). Look for the €10 piles of cloth!

Kitchenware

WWJCD? (What would Julia Child do?) That joke never gets old! For gastromical sakes, she’d hunt the aisles of kitchen-equipment specialist E. Dehillerin! “Thunderstruck!” was her description of the heated encounter she first had there. Located at 18 Rue Coquillière (Métro: Les Halles), the centuries-old shop’s shine has not dulled the least bit.

Also, check out Julia’s photograph behind the cash register!

Tableware

When it comes to dinner parties, presentation is everything! So channel your inner Martha Stewart, and roll on over to shops along rue de Paradis (south of Métro Poissoniere, 10th arrondissement). There’s also a row of funky tableware shops along rue de Rennes (Métro: Rennes, 6th arrondissement). For the love of whimsy, all three shops are worth a pop-by: La Vaissellerie (85), Culinarion (99), and Plastiques (103). (Read more on buying kitchenware in Paris.)

Vintage Postcards

One of my favorite hunting grounds for “cartes postale ancienne” (known as CPA in the trade) is at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès) in the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt). Stocked with postcards organized by category or genre, if you’re looking for a specific category, don’t be afraid to ask! The Porte de Vanves Flea also carries them, along with vintage magazines.

Books

Also at the Clignancourt Flea, you’ll find one of my favorite bookshops. La librairie de l’Avenue is a large but still intimate bookshop, stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. After hunting at the Porte de Vanves Flea, book it to the book and prints flea market. Located at intersection of Rue Brancion and Rue Fizeau in the 15th arrondissement, the market is open Saturdays and Sundays.

Your favorite shopping spots?

Cheapos, do you have a favorite shopping district in Paris? Do spill!

Also in our guide: If you’re planning your Paris vacation and need suggestions for great affordable hotels, check out our reviews of budget hotels in Paris. All of our picks have been visited, inspected and approved by a EuroCheapo editor. Read more in our Paris guide and grab some helpful tips on where to stay during your visit.

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Paris: A fashion fanatic’s (Cheapo-friendly) shopping tour https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-a-fashion-fanatics-cheapo-friendly-shopping-tour.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-a-fashion-fanatics-cheapo-friendly-shopping-tour.html#comments Mon, 21 Mar 2011 12:28:40 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=17392 Recently my sister Wendy flew to Paris for a short jaunt, so I spun a special day tour, tailor-made to suit my very stylish and au courant sibling. With a little pre-planning, we were able to visit two fashion-related exhibitions, three historical monuments, four grand magasins, along with five prime (and oh-so-affordable) shopping districts. And » Read more

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Recently my sister Wendy flew to Paris for a short jaunt, so I spun a special day tour, tailor-made to suit my very stylish and au courant sibling. With a little pre-planning, we were able to visit two fashion-related exhibitions, three historical monuments, four grand magasins, along with five prime (and oh-so-affordable) shopping districts. And that was just Day One!

Grande Épicerie

Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché

So fire up your printers, Cheapos! Here’s the agenda for the first day of our shop ’til you drop campaign of Napoleonic proportions!

Tips

Do pack one oversized bag for your goods. While the multiple-shopping bag scene with Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman” is charming and all, you’re just inviting advances from pickpockets. Most grocery store chains sell durable large bags for just a few cents. Franprix’s current model was inspired by Mondrian!

Also, for the love of saving both time and money, purchase your Metro tickets by the “carnet” (10-pack) before you set out.

Galeries Lafayette Paris

Galeries Lafayette’s dome

10:00 a.m.: Abbesses
Metro: Abbesses, line 12

After a short run around the Sacré Coeur ’hood to help Wen shake the jet lag blues, we headed to Sympa for some bargain bin shopping. This string of shops runs along rue de Steinkerque, a street once notorious for its brothels and dance halls. (Picasso shopped here!)

On this day we were able to score some slinky black tops by Carling, each costing €2.99 a pop! Confession: I bought twelve, and my sister purchased nine. Heads-up: Etam’s frilly spring 2011 line of lingerie is currently on sale for just a few euros apiece!

11:00 a.m.: 140 bis, rue de Rennes
Metro: Rennes, line 12

We then soared to Zara at the Félix Potin building (an Art Nouveau masterpiece) on the bustling rue de Rennes. It’s a pet Zara hot spot because the location usually serves as one of last stops for the chain’s leftover winter clothing sales.

Musée de la Mode et du Textile Paris

Commes des Garcons’ exhibit at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile

Here my sister scooped up a classic belted trench coat, along with seven cap-sleeved turtle necks, all costing just €3.99 a piece. By this victorious moment, the woozy feeling of jet lag had completely abandoned the scene. Yes, sometimes fleeting joy CAN be bought!

12 noon: Bon Marché
Metro: Sevres-Babylone, line 12

After grabbing soda pops just outside the Rennes metro stop, we fast-trekked to the Christian Dior exhibition at Bon Marché. Decked out in Dior’s beloved white and grey, the exhibit was made up of iconic “New Look” ensembles, photographs, and super hip multimedia projections on oversized accessories like chairs, mannequins and hat boxes. After a few spins around the gallery, we snagged a few sweets at the Grande Épicerie de Paris Bon Marché, which is just behind the main building.

Wen at the Arc-de-Triomphe du Carrousel

Wendy’s new coat

Please note: the Dior exhibit closes March 26, 2011, so if you’re in Paris now, hotfoot it there right away. Not in Paris? Fret not, because the department store often coordinates free exhibits. There will be more to come!

1:30 p.m.: Carrousel du Louvre
Metro: Louvre Rivoli, line 1

Feeling the sugar rush, we raced to the “Les années 1900-2000” exhibition at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile. Our favorite showstoppers included Jean Paul Gaultier’s plumes, Junya Watanabe’s unstoppable bustles, and Comme des Garcons’ bulges in all the wrong places.

Afterwards, we had a wonderful, marvelous photo-op at the Arc-de-Triomphe du Carrousel. Film buffs, this is where the iconic balloon scene in “Funny Face” with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire was shot. ‘S Marvelous!

Paris boot shopping

3:30 p.m.: Samaritaine at Pont Neuf
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

Spotting a few dramatic-looking rain clouds heading our way, we made a joint decision to promenade swiftly down rue de Rivoli to Zara’s other “last stop” for sale items, located in the former Samaritaine department store at Chatêlet.

After ogling its spectacular exterior, we nipped into Zara where Wen picked up a few more turtlenecks (Can you ever have enough? I don’t think so!), and I scored a fur-lined vest and a thick green felt dress, both costing just €6.

4:30 p.m.: Pont Neuf and Saint Germain
Metro: Pont Neuf, line 7

We then made our way to the Pont Neuf to pay homage to King Henri IV (a.k.a. “Le Vert Galant”), and yes, to check out his boots. Green with envy and fatigue, we slowly crept across the bridge, limping toward Saint Germain des Prés.

The dapper monarch’s benediction must have been with us because in no time at all we found ourselves seated in a cozy boutique, surrounded by hundreds of boots, all on sale. The proprietor was extremely personable, helping my sister find the boots of her dreams. The boots? On Sale. The Cendrillon (Cinderella) experience? Priceless.

Twilight Paris

View from the flat at l’heure bleu

6:00 p.m.: Boulevard Haussmann
Metro: Havre-Caumartin, line 7

Losing both daylight and any remaining feeling in our feet (or “dogs” as my grandmother Wentz would say), we ended our whirlwind day trip by paying a call on those Belle Époque beauties, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on Boulevard Haussmann.

After an ogle and a gaze at GL’s amazing dome, we stopped by its gourmet shop, where we loaded up with bread, Cantal cheese, and a bottle of crisp white Cheverny. Then we slowly hobbled back to Saint-Lazare, where we caught line 12 back to Abbesses, just in time for l’heure bleu (twilight), more sister bonding, and planning for the next day!

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Paris Winter Sales: Our 2 favorite shopping neighborhoods https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-winter-sales-our-2-favorite-shopping-neighborhoods.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-winter-sales-our-2-favorite-shopping-neighborhoods.html#comments Mon, 24 Jan 2011 13:13:25 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=16514 Make no tips, hands or buts about it, “Les soldes d’hiver 2011” (big winter sales) are in full and vibrant swing here in Paris! They began on January 12, 2011 and last through Tuesday, February 15, 2011. So this week I’ve decided to don my faux fur tour guide hat, and create a special excursion » Read more

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Make no tips, hands or buts about it, “Les soldes d’hiver 2011” (big winter sales) are in full and vibrant swing here in Paris! They began on January 12, 2011 and last through Tuesday, February 15, 2011. So this week I’ve decided to don my faux fur tour guide hat, and create a special excursion for our au courant fashion trendsters. Magnifique Miles, here we come!

Cheapos, here’s the scoop: The “80” bus line connects two of my favorite shopping districts in the city: rue des Abbesses in the 18th arrondissement and rue du Commerce in the 15th arrondissement. Nestled in cobblestoned ’hoods with views to boot, both boast a cool blend of bargain bins, “indy” designer boutiques, funky shops, and trendy chains.

For the mere price of a metro ticket (the same tickets work for both buses and Metros), you’ll not only cruise between the shopping havens with the greatest of ease, but also boast about your first scores of the day while the panorama of Paris rolls by en route to the next shipping district. The 80 is one of the most scenic bus lines in the city, so keep your camera handy and eyes open!

Related: How to save big when shopping in Paris

Rue des Abbesses

We’ll first hit Abbesses (Métro Abbesses) in the morning. The neighborhood has a bustling village vibe about it, and is chockfull of shops, cafés, and hair salons. Even Louis Vuitton recently fell under its spell, and named one of their messenger bags “Abbesses.”

Beloved national and international chains sit pretty on rue des Abbesses, while most of the vintage shops and funky designer boutiques hold court on the side streets. On Sundays the area becomes a pedestrian-only and traffic-free district!

Sue’s Matière à Bijoux

Something old

Looking for fine vintage? Dial back the clock at Le Caverne à Fripes at 25 rue Houdon. Here the inventory is eclectic, and may seem chaotic but don’t let looks deceive you. The collection is quite organized. Looking for a specific item? Don’t hesitate to ask. They once tracked down a French sailor hat for me. Prices are super reasonable, too.

Something new

Bargain bin shopping Sympa is located nearby at the foot of Sacré-Coeur. Inventory rotates. Here you’ll often find Best Mountain, Etam, Naf-Naf, Sinéquanone, Sandro, and Undiz Lingerie Planet but for a wee fraction of their original cost!

Something borrowed and stunning blue

While trekking about, check out Van Gogh’s old third floor apartment on 54 rue Lepic. A plaque marks the spot where he lived with his brother Theo for a few years.

Feeling all inspired and starry, starry eyed after the visit? Then pop by Sue’s Matière à Bijoux bead shop located directly across the street, and create your own work of art. She’ll even help you design your own bling! Tell her you’re a Cheapo.

Église Saint-Augustin de Paris

This is our stop

After we shop till we drop in Abbesses, we’ll hop on the 80 bus. The bus stop is located at rue Caulaincourt and Tourlaque, just around the corner from the (late, great) pop star diva Dalida’s Bambino studio at 10 Rue Damrémont and Toulouse-Lautrec’s atelier at 7 rue Tourlaque! Again, building plaques mark both historical and hip hot spots.

Oh, the places we’ll go

On our way to rue du Commerce, we’ll pass the Cimetière de Montmartre, Place Clichy, Gare Saint Lazare, the Église Saint-Augustin de Paris, the unofficial Princess Di memorial at Pont de l’Alma, École Militaire, Champ de Mars, the Eiffel Tower, and the Le Mur pour la Paix created in 2000 by artist Clara Halter and architect Jean-Michel Wilmote. Here the word “peace” in 49 languages is inscribed on large glass panes and tall, slender metal columns. From our rolling catbird seats, we’ll also spot legendary fashion houses like Valentino, Dior and Jimmy Choo!

Rue de Commerce

Rue du Commerce

Hold onto your hat and signal the bus driver because we’ve reached our final destination! First we’ll fortify ourselves with a soda pop at the café, located next to La Motte Picquet Grenelle bus stop. A favorite of the locals, this is prime people-watching zone, any time of the day or year.

Got passion for fashion?

The Rue du Commerce shopping district runs from from Boulevard de Grenelle to Rue des Entrepreneurs. I love this place. The shops are just beyond the bridge. Here you’ll find Cheapo iconic darlings like Monoprix, Etam, Cameliau, Zara, and H&M—where, by the way, rumor has it that the fabulous Jimmy Choo shoe line for the celebrity embracing chain can still be found at the very back of the sale racks! How cool is that? Oh, la la.

Happy Hunting, Cheapos! May the shopping force be with you.

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Paris: 6 favorite cheap restaurants in the Abbesses neighborhood https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-6-favorite-cheap-eats-in-the-abbesses-neighborhood.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-6-favorite-cheap-eats-in-the-abbesses-neighborhood.html#comments Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:40:23 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=11277 When it comes to love and chow in Paris, I’m as loyal they come, but I ain’t easy. Before it’ll catch my heart, any eatery had better possess a certain ambience, flattering lighting, an affordable menu, gastronomical consistency, and friendly service. If they recognize my devotion with a smile, a little wave or a complimentary » Read more

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When it comes to love and chow in Paris, I’m as loyal they come, but I ain’t easy. Before it’ll catch my heart, any eatery had better possess a certain ambience, flattering lighting, an affordable menu, gastronomical consistency, and friendly service. If they recognize my devotion with a smile, a little wave or a complimentary cocktail, well then I am hooked—make no bones about it.

So, for your moveable feasting pleasure, I got out my little red book and whipped up a short list of favorite cheap eats in my Abbesses neighborhood. The joints listed here will not only save you money but enhance your overall travel experience.

As my grandmother would say, saving for a trip starts at home. So set down that fancy frappuccino, and wait to treat yourself to a “Sez” draft at a café above the Seine instead!

Getting there: Métro Abbesses, Pigalle or Blanche

1. Le Coquelicot (“The Poppy”)
24 rue des Abbesses
Boulangerie

Here’s where I buy my ham and cheese sandwiches, along with their award-winning “Piccola” baguettes.

Decor: Shabby-chic with hand-painted murals
Vibe: Fresh and bubbly
Perks: Fabulous view of the bakers kneading, perky staff, and terrace seating
Try: Jambon-fromage baguette, lemon bars, pain au chocolat, and Piccola baguettes

Tips: As always in Paris, takeout is cheaper, so make a selection and picnic at nearby Place des Abbesses and its little Square Jehan Rictus by the “J’taime Wall.” Love your bread straight from the oven? Ask and they will tell.

La Pignatta restaurant Paris

La Pignatta

2. La Pignatta
89 rue des Martyrs
Italian

Here’s where I buy take-out pizzas for my dinner parties. With their gravity-defying pizza tossing tricks and brick oven, they’ve never let me or my shindig guests down.

Decor: Old World charm accessorized with checkered tablecloths and travel posters
Vibe: ‘S Wonderful, ‘S Marvelous
Perks: Terrace seating, personable staff, hefty portions with Cheapo price tags attached
Try: Pizza Caprese or Pizza Pignatta, topped with a roasted egg and crème fraîche

Tips: Again, take-out is cheaper. From here it’s just a romantic stroll up to Sacre Coeur. For another picnic idea, check out their fresh Italian salads. I’ve got a thing going on with the tri-salad sampler.

Le Saint Jean, Paris

The terrace at Le Saint Jean

3. Le Saint Jean
16 rue des Abbesses

Like the 25 little black dresses that hang in my closet, there really isn’t an occasion that le Saint Jean is perfectly suited for, night and day.

Decor: Classic Paris diner with cozy wooden booths, bar, and photography
Vibe: Where’s Edith Piaf? I’m sure she’s here somewhere.
Perks: Terrace seating and occasional live music and dancing
Try: Omelets, hand-cut fries, salads, crème brulée, and French onion soup

Tips: Order house wine by the pitcher. Traditional French dishes are always available. Lost in translation? Just ask. The staff is friendly and helpful. The best people-watching tables are located on the far left, next to the rue André Antoine steps.

4. Le Mono
40 rue Véron
Togolese

Le Mono restaurant Paris

A birthday at Le Momo. Photo: Marcus Schubert

I love this place because the owner always manages to find a table for me, even on his busiest Saturday nights.

Decor: West African—bamboo, masks and popular art
Vibe: Very festive and so bruyant!
Perks: Large portions, engaging staff and a masterpiece playlist that includes King Mensah and Salif Keita!

Try: Djenkoumé (chicken in tomato sauce), grilled plantains and a cold Flag beer!

Tips: This is a great place to celebrate a birthday. Let them know ahead of time, leave your cake behind the counter, and they’ll happily stage a dramatic presentation—with music! (They won’t mention it, but it’s good form to tip for extra service like this.)

5. Le Relais Gascon
6 rue des Abbesses

Cheapos, this is where I go after a seeing movie at the historic movie house Studio 28, located just down the street. Here you’ll find big, inexpensive salads piled high with a variety of meats, cheeses and vegetables, and scrupulously topped with mountains of homemade, hand-cut garlic potatoes!

Decor: Traditional-rustic with wooden bar, mirrors, murals, and paintings
Vibe: Oh, so boisterous and bustling
Perks: Family-style seating on the second floor, terrace seating, and large portions
Try: One of the ten Salades Géantes with pommes de terre sautées à l’ail (think Mont Ventoux!)

Tips: The locals are also in awe of its old-school appeal, so arrive early to score seating. Also, order your house wine by the pitcher. It’s cheaper.

6. Café des Deux Moulins
15 rue Lepic

Café des Deux Moulins Paris

The glow of the Café des Deux Moulins

So why is the “café of two windmills” so unique et magnifique? Because it was featured in “Amélie“, that’s why! Stop by for an apéritif or post-dinner indulgence and rub elbows with other pilgrims.

Decor: Old-fashioned seating, hand-painted murals and classic bar
Vibe: Frenetic
Perks: Photo-op with the house gnome or exterior neon sign. Make the kids back home ga-ga with envy.
Try it: Picon-bière, a bittersweet blend of oranges and deep blue gentian flowers, typically served with a small draft beer. Mix and tipple!

Tip: Arrive around 5 PM for happy hour, starring discounted drinks. The voluptuous sweets are also heavenly.

Cheapos, make every meal an experience, after all, it was Julia Child’s very first lunch in France that changed her life, and set her cookbook project in motion. Years later she wrote, “I can still almost taste it. And thinking back on it now reminds me that the pleasures of the table and of life, are infinite. Toujours Bon Appétit!”

Oui-oui, Bon Appétit!

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