Hotels, restaurants and gondola rides can quickly and adversely affect your budget.

So we decided to list 10 favorite activities that Venice offers for under €15. Who says Venice has to be expensive?

Venice travel tips
• The Best cheap hotels in Venice: 7 picks from our guide
• Italy 10-Day Itinerary: Rome, Florence and Venice
• 5 Budget hotels with canal views

10 Cheap things to do in Venice

Let’s start with some activities for art lovers:

1. Visit the Gallerie Dell’Accademia

The Accademia is the world’s greatest museum for Venetian Renaissance art. It hosts an amazingly rich collection of Venetian paintings from the Byzantine and Gothic 14th century. Feast your eyes on works by Bellini, Carpaccio, Giorgione, Veronese, Tintoretto, and Tiziano, not to mention Tiepolo and Canaletto, Guardi, Bellotto and Longhi.

Admission: €15; €2 for reduced admission or €10 for early morning arrivals before 9 am
Free entry: 1^st Sunday of the month (no online tickets) and for visitors under 18.
Hours: Mon 8:15 am – 2 pm, Tues to Sun 8:15 am – 7:15 pm (ticket office closes one hour earlier)
Entrance: Near the Vaporetto Stop: Accademia – Line 1 and 2

Website

2. Tour the Museo Arte Orientale Ca’ Pesaro

The Museo Arte Orientale Ca’ Pesaro offers one of the most important collections of Japanese art from the Edo period in Europe. The collection was acquired by Prince Henry II of Bourbon during his travels to Asia, between 1887 and 1889. You can admire more than 30,000 artifacts, like swords and daggers, Japanese armors and precious porcelains, with wide sections dedicated to Indonesian and Chinese art.

Admission: €14, reduced €11.50
Hours: Nov to March: Tues to Sun, 10 am – 5 pm, April to October: Tues to Sun, 10 am – 6 pm
Entrance: Near the Vaporetto Stop: San Stae, line 1

Website

Now for some religious activities:

Basilica San Marco is a must-see on a Venice vacation. Photo: Ivan

3. Visit the Basilica San Marco

Boasting an incredibly rich ensemble of domes, columns, statues and mosaic-covered interiors, the Basilica San Marco (“St. Mark’s Church”) is the true heart of Venice and the final resting place of Saint Mark. There are always long queues outside, but you can follow our guide on how to avoid crowds.

Admission: Church only €6, Church and St. Mark’s Museum €15, Church and Pala d’Oro €12, Church and Loggia Dei Cavalli €10, Bell Towers €12
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 9:30 am – 5:15 pm; Sunday, 9:30 am – 5:15 for Museum and Loggia Dei Cavalli, 2 p.m. – 5:15 pm for the church
Entrance: Near the Vaporetto Stop San Zaccaria – Lines 2, 51 and 41

Website

4. Take a tour of the Jewish Museum and synagogues

This is the world’s first ghetto and it hasn’t changed since it was created back in the Middle Ages. The Jewish Museum of Venice was opened in 1953 and displays valuable artifacts, sacred furnishings and the nuptial contract of the Jewish community that for centuries has lived in this neighborhood. The tour also includes a visit to the five synagogues of the city, all founded during the 16th century.

Admission: €14, reduced €12, guided tours €15 or €2 in advance
Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 10 am – 5:30 pm; Friday, 9 am – 3 pm
Entrance: Near the Vaporetto stop Ponte delle Guglie, Line 41, 42, 51, 52 or S. Marcuola, Line 1 or 2

Website

5. Visit the Chiesa dei Frari

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice, a religious treasure situated in the middle of the Venice, makes up one of the largest groups of buildings in the city. The massive church, commonly called “Frari,” dominates the area of San Polo with its Gothic forms and creative use of bricks. Inside, gaze at amazing masterpieces by Titian, Donatello, and many more local artists.

Admission: €5, €2 reduced
Hours:  Monday to Friday 9 am – 7:30 pm; Saturday 9 am – 6 pm; Sunday 1 pm – 6 pm
Entrance: Near the Vaporetto stop San Toma, Line 1

Website

Take a vaporetto ride for a low-cost tour of the Venetian canals. Photo: Mark

How about some outdoor activities, with perfect spots for panoramic photos of Venice?

6. Take a ride to San Giorgio Island

This important Benedictine monastery was built on the small island of the same name by Andrea Palladio. It is designed around the church and two cloisters. Since 1951, it has been run by the Giorgio Cini Foundation. Take the short vaporetto ride to the island and enjoy the view.

Admission: Free for church, €6 for Bell Towers
Hours: April to October 9 am – 7 pm, November to March 8:30 am – 6 pm, Sundays closed for mass from 10:40 am – 12 pm
Getting there: Vaporetti Line 2, Isola di San Giorgio stop

Website

7. Walk the beaches of Lido

Take a boat out to the sandy beaches of Lido, where the city’s aristocrats used to stroll during the summer. If you head over during the Venice Film Festival, you might chance upon some movie stars. The beach is free and there are some very nice restaurants in the area.

Getting there: Lido Line 1, Lido stop

8. Park it

Immerse yourself in one of the few green spots in Venice: the Giardini, created by Napoleon (after knocking down many old churches and convents) when he conquered the city in 1807. The rubble was used to create a small hill, which now hosts the Padiglione della Biennale.

And last, but not least, two of my own favorites:

9. See how gondolas are built at Squero San Trovaso

This boatyard is located along the Rio San Trovaso and dates back to the 17th century. This squero (“boatyard”) is one of the few still operating in Venice and you can watch for free from the outside.

Also, note the unique boathouse, the building shaped like a mountain house. The reason for its sloping shape is twofold: Both the carpenters and the timber came from Cadore (a mountain area of the Dolomites); and secondly, the slope was useful in case of rain, and serves as storage for tools.

If you want to take a tour and see gondolas being built and repaired, you need a group of at least 25 people. The tour usually lasts 30 minutes. Email ahead to info@squerosantrovaso.com for more information.

Website

10. Take a Cheapo Vaporetto tour

Take Vaporetto Line 51, relax and take in the view of the lagoon. The vaporetto circles around the city and connects the Lido to Fondamenta Nove, on the northern lagoon side of Venice’s historic center. From there, it continues through the Cannaregio Canal to the train station and Piazzale Roma before heading up the Giudecca Canal with stops at San Zaccaria, Giardini, and S. Elena on its way back to the Lido. The tour only costs the price of a normal Vaporetto ticket (€9.50, valid for 75 minutes), and offers some of the most breathtaking views of the city!

Website

Your favorite cheap activities in Venice

Have anything to add to our list of great things to do in Venice on the cheap? Tell us about it in the comments section.

The post 10 Things to do in Venice on the cheap appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Last week here on EuroCheapo, we reported on Venice’s island of the dead. For over 200 years, the Isola di San Michele has served as the city’s principal cemetery. This week, we’ll look at island churches in the Venetian lagoon.

The best panorama in Venice

Few visitors to the city do not at some stage take a vaporetto over to Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, if only to gaze back over the Canale di San Marco towards the Palazzo Ducale, the Piazzetta and the St Mark’s Basilica. The view of Venice from the campanile (entered through the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore) is perhaps the finest panorama in the entire city. Don’t make the trip just for that view from the top of the tower. The church itself is a wondrous place—even if John Ruskin found it “barbarous.” It is a delicate confection of pale marble, one of Palladio’s finest achievements.

The impressive La Giudecca rising in the background. Photo: Rita Manicor

West to the Redentore

So you’ve ticked off San Giorgio Maggiore. Where next? Well, if you liked Palladio’s essay in classical Renaissance design, hop over to La Giudecca, the island immediately west of San Giorgio Maggiore. Just two stops on vaporetto route 2 will do the trick. It’s a six-minute ride on a route that runs five times an hour from dawn till dusk. Alight at Redentore and you’ll be confronted by the main sight of La Giudecca. The Chiesa del Redentore is one of five churches in Venice built to give thanks for the end of the plague. And with the Redentore, Andrea Palladio really pulled out all the stops. Even Ruskin was impressed.

Armenian connections

Churches and islands go together in Venice. Another popular Venice excursion is to San Lazzaro degli Armeni—which is not quite the sole Armenian religious imprint on the Venetian landscape for there is an Armenian church tucked away in a side street just north of the Piazza San Marco.

When Byron went out to San Lazzaro for his thrice-weekly lessons in Armenian, he had to row to the island-monastery. Today’s visitors have it easier. Vaporetto route 20 runs a dozen times each day to San Lazzaro from the boat station by San Zaccaria (just east of the Palazzo Ducale).

The peaceful Armenian monastery on San Lazzaro degli Armeni. Photo: Jean-Pierre Dalberra

San Lazzaro degli Armeni

San Lazzaro is something special. Yes, it pulls the tourist crowds, but it has an atmosphere all its own. The writer Jan Morris (in her wonderful book Venice) describes it as a place “that never feels far from the great world, and takes modernity easily in its stride.”

Armenian monks have prayed on San Lazzaro for close on 300 years and in those years the monastery has developed into one of Europe’s leading repositories of Armenian art and culture. The best way to visit is to join the tour held each afternoon and led by one of the monks. Take the vaporetto at 2.30 pm from San Zaccaria which will get you in good time to San Lazzaro for the tour, which usually starts about 3.30 pm.

Another unforgettable view of San Servolo island from the ferry. Photo: Emanuele

The island of the mad

If you like the idea of a trip out to San Lazzaro, it combines well with a stop on another fascinating Venetian island: San Servolo. The low huddle of buildings on San Servolo conceal a hidden history: the island served for many years as an asylum. The story is told by the Museo del Manicomio (Museum of the Asylum) on San Servolo. The island is also served by vaporetto route 20.

This is the second of two posts on Venice by Nicky and Susanne. Their first post looks at Venice’s Island of the Dead.

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Ah,  the “Carnivale di Venezia,” an experience that should be had by every traveler at least once. Extravagant costumes, colorful masks, crowds dancing in Piazza San Marco, and special Carnival desserts that bars and cafés display proudly all make it unforgettable, and unique to Venice. What’s better is that many events are entirely free.

A Cheapo Carnival

Though hotel rates do spike during this time of year, it’s nice to know that virtually all of Carnival’s public activities are free. Of course I am not talking about the elegant aristocratic “behind closed door” parties, attended by the rich and the famous. Rather, I’m speaking of the real Carnival, the people’s Carnival, which is the Carnival at its best and the most enjoyable–and it’s open to everyone.

The 2011 Carnival

The theme of the 2011 Carnival is fantastic: “Women and the 19th Century,” timed to celebrate Italy’s 1861 unification.

The festival will be held Saturday, February 19 and Sunday, February 20, 2011 and then from Saturday, February 26 through March 8, 2011. The days packed with the most events are any weekends and on Thursday, March 3 (Shrove Thursday) and Tuesday, March 8 (Mardi Gras).

Here is a short list of some of this year’s free Carnival events. You can find more on the city’s official Web site.

Saturday, February 19: The Great “Brindisi”
Piazaetta San Marco
7 p.m. – 8 p.m.

This is a joyful and elegant “toast” (“brindisi”) that offers the Venetians and tourists an opportunity to officially welcome in the Carnival. The festival will open with dances in San Marco Square, to the tune of the most famous Brindiam.

Sunday, February 20: Feast of the Venetians
Grand Canal and Cannargeio
10 a.m.

On Sunday, February 20 at 10:00 a.m. on the Grand Canal and around the Cannaregio district the “Feast of all Venetians,” dedicated to the citizens and visitors of the city, takes place. Rowing associations will perform a water parade from San Marco and will row along the Grand Canal until they reach the Cannaregio district.

Once in Cannaregio, they swish past the crowds lining the banks, waiting for the now famous “Flight of the Venetian Rat.” Upon their arrival, the wine and food booths open, dishing up and pouring out Carnival treats, such as the Venetian fritole, Galani and the beloved cicheti.

Saturday, February 26 and Tuesday, March 8: Feast of Marie
Various locations and times

On Saturday, February 26 the Feast of Marie departs at 2 p.m. from San Pietro di Castello, arriving in Piazza San Marco at about 4 p.m. On Tuesday, March 8 the water procession departs from St. James Gold at 3:30 p.m. and arrives at 5 p.m. in Piazza San Marco for an awards ceremony.

The event, called the “Festa delle Marie,” recalls the annual tribute that the Doge presented to 12 beautiful and humble Venetian maidens, awarding them with a generous dowry. The festival is a great opportunity to take in the traditional Venetian costumes.

Sunday, February 27: The Flight of the Angel
Piazza San Marco
Noon

The “Flight of the Angel” is an exciting “flight” of a secret guest of the city (usually a celebrity) from the top of
the bell tower in Piazza San Marco to the center of the square. The guest, or rather the “angel,” wears a beautiful costume with a special Carnival theme.

Saturday, February 26 to Tuesday, March 8: Shows in the Grand Foyer of San Marco
Grand Foyer, Piazza San Marco
2 p.m. – nighttime

The Grand Foyer of San Marco will host the festival’s “main stage.” Among the not-to-be-missed events offered are live music concerts hosted by DJs and radio stars, a circus with international artists, parades and comedians. The space will also host the festival’s famous dances every evening starting at 8 p.m. Don’t miss the grand finale on March 8: the Feast of Women and Mardi Gras.

Other events

Throughout the Carnival, from February 26 to March 8, you will be able to catch other events, such as performances in many of the city’s major squares by the commedia dell’arte. Additionally, costumed guides will lead city tours, and churches will be open late into the evening, many with classical concerts on offer.

Tuesday, March 8: Closing Night: The Rowing of the Silence
Grand Canal
Midnight

Don’t forget about the “Rowing of the Silence,” the event that closes the festival on Tuesday, March 8, at midnight. The Carnival’s big finale features a long procession of gondolas and rowing boats that travel the Grand Canal from Rialto to the Basin San Marco, following the sounds of a trumpet crying out from the first boat.

Along the way, the Grand Canal will be lit by candles and lanterns, recreating a subdued 19th-century atmosphere. Upon arrival in St. Mark’s Basin hundreds of bright balloons will be released into the air, signaling the end of the Carnival, and the metaphorical entrance into Lent.

I hope you’ll be able to take part at this year’s Carnival. Remember, you don’t need to shell out a fortune to have a blast!

The post Venice: A Cheapo’s guide to free Carnival events appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

With so few tourists walking down the city’s quiet calli (small streets), this is the quietest time to savor the city. How lovely it is to see the Rialto Market all lit up day and night. The restaurants propose scrumptious menus, while the hotels decorate themselves in their finest. Thousands of lights reflect onto the canals and create a magical environment. Even without tourists, the city feels alive.

Christmastime also offers holiday markets in the small towns and cities of the Veneto region. These markets, with their lively colors and goods for sale, attract thousands of tourists and locals.

Here are some of my favorite ways to celebrate the season in Venice:

Santo Stefano Christmas Market
Campo Santo Stefano
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
Through December 24
Vaporetto n. 1/82 stop Accademia

From the beginning of December through December 24 in Campo Santo Stefano the city holds a Christmas market that offers a traditional Venetian atmosphere. Visitors will be able to immerse themselves into a magical world of lights, colors and flavors while experiencing the handicrafts of the Veneto Region.

The market offers its visitors the perfect balance of art and folklore. Walking amongst the wooden market stalls (similar to those used in northern Europe) alongside the magnificent Venetian buildings is an unforgettable experience. Check out the typical Christmas offerings, including Christmas ceramics, dolls, candles, decorations, necklaces, masks, handmade soaps and Murano glass balls. Of course, you’ll also be able to taste the city’s seasonal treats.

Murano: Glass Christmas
Vaporetto n. DM Stop: Murano
Through the end of December

Another lovely market, the “Natale di Vetro,” or “Glass Christmas,” takes place in Murano from the December 5 till the end of December. Murano Island is located a couple of vaporetto stops from Venice.

On December 6, the island celebrates Saint Nicholas (San Nicolo), the patron saint of glass makers, with a glass Christmas market. Stalls offer hundreds of glass Christmas decorations, all of which are produced on the island by master glass makers. The market also includes an exhibition of handmade Murano chandeliers, which light up the ancient portico of the San Pietro Martire cloister.

There are all kinds of entertainment offerings, from concerts to glass-blowing demonstrations.

Jesolo Lido: Sand Nativity
From December 8

In Jesolo Lido (the famous seaside resort only an hour away by bus from Venice) you can admire the Jesolo Sand Nativity, one of the finest in the world. The show is open from December 8 onward, from 10 a.m.-noon and 2 p.m.-7 p.m. and takes place in one of the city’s nicest squares. This year one of the sculptures will be dedicated to Nelson Mandela.

Jesolo Lido: Father Christmas Run
Piazza Mazzini, Jesolo
December 19

Another of Jesolo’s events is the “Babbo Natale Run 2010” (the Father Christmas run). Held on December 19 the run starts at the Piazza Mazzini at 2:30 p.m. and features athletes running while dressed as Father Christmas.

The post Venice Holiday Events: Markets, Glass Christmas and more appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Whenever people visit Venice,  they often visit the city’s best known museums, including the Doge’s Palace, the Galleria dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Palazzo Grassi. However, because of their popularity, these museums are often very crowded and have long lines that can fatigue even the most tireless Cheapo.

If you want to explore some museums off the beaten path, check out the following recommendations. These lesser-known museums are generally not as crowded as their better known counterparts, meaning you will be able to enjoy the history and beauty of Venice in a much calmer and relaxing way.

Museo Storico Navale (Naval History Museum)
Riva S. Biasio Castello (Vaporetto Stop: Arsenale)
Tel.: +39 (0)41 2441 399
Hours: 8:45 a.m to 1:30 p.m. (Monday to Friday), 8:45 a.m. to 1 p.m. (Saturday)
Admission: €1.55 (free for school groups)
Web site

Situated in Campo San Biagio, the Naval History Museum was founded in 1919. The building used to be an old grain warehouse, though at the end of the 17th century, Austrian-ruled Venice decided to use the building to archive ship models from the Arsenale (Venice’s state-owned shipyard).

Together with some adjacent buildings, the museum holds a very large collection of models, original plans, original ships (including some historic gondolas) and much more. A visit to the museum will provide you with a good history of Venice and her powerful naval fleet.

Museo Di Arte Orientale (Oriental Art Museum)
Santa Croce n. 2076 (Vaporetto Stop: San Stae)
Tel.: +39 (0)41 520 0345
Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Tuesday to Sunday)
Admission: €5.50 (adult), €3.00 (reduced)
Web site

The Oriental Art Museum is situated in the ancient palace of Ca’ Pesaro, which also houses the Modern Art Museum. This museum hosts one of the most important collections of Japanese art of the Edo period.

Outside the Museo Fortuny. Photo by gwenflickr.

The collection was a gift from Prince Henry of Bourbon, who traveled throughout Asia in the late 19th century. The museum holds more than 30,000 artifacts, from swords and daggers to a wide selection of Indonesian and Chinese art.

Museo di Storia Naturale (Natural History Museum)
Santa Croce 1730 (Vaporetto Stop: Riva di Biasio)
Tel.: +39 (0)41 275 0206
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Wednesday), 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Saturday and Sunday)
Admission: €4.50 (adult), €3 (reduced)
Web site

Housed in the Fontego dei Turchi, a 13th-century palace and former warehouse used by Turkish merchants in the 1600s, the Museum of Natural History is one of the most interesting spots on the Grand Canal.

The second floor of the ancient palace is home to the museum, which was recently completely refurbished and re-opened in March, 2010. The collection includes plenty of fossils, along with exhibits on the Venetian lagoon and Giancarlo Ligabue, a Venetian paleontologist who discovered several dinosaur fossils in 1973.

Museo Fortuny
San Marco 3958 (Vaporetto stop: Sant’ Angelo or San Samuele)
Tel.: +39 (0)41 520 0995
Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (daily except for Tuesday)
Admission: €9 (adult), €6 (reduced)
Web site

This ancient Gothic palace houses the collection of Mariano Fortuny, a Spanish fashion designer who lived in Venice. The collection includes preserved structures, textiles, tapestry, art collections, precious fabrics and Fortuny’s famous lampshades.

The post Venice: Lesser-known museums worth visiting appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

Still, there are many things to do with children in Venice that will make their holiday one to remember. The following suggestions have been tried and tested with children of all ages and backgrounds: from tiny toddlers to bored teenagers, from wild primary school boys to young girls.

Vaporetto ride on the Grand Canal

As you arrive in Venice the first thing you should do is to take a vaporetto (water bus) ride on the Grand Canal. Get yourself and your child (children under one meter do not pay transport fees in the city) a daily pass. (A 12-hour pass costs €16 per person—it allows you unlimited rides within the allotted period.) For more information, visit ACTV, Venice’s transportation Web site.

The Palazzo Ducale

Take vaporetto line 1 and admire the beautiful palaces, gondolas, roaring boats and the innumerable seagulls and pigeons flying above you. I have not met a child who does not enjoy the ride.

To get the best views, sit outside either at the front or at the back of the vaporetto. The journey from Piazzale Roma to San Marco Square takes about one hour.

The Palazzo Ducale
San Marco 1, 30124 Venice
Tel.: +39 (0)4 12 71 59 11
Hours: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. (April 1st to May 31st), 8:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. (June 1st to October 31st), 9 a.m.-6 p.m. (November 1st to March 31st)
Getting there: With vaporetto, line 51 or 41 to San Zaccaria
Admission: €13 (adult), 7.50 (reduced)

Once you arrive in San Marco, visit the Palazzo Ducale (the Doge’s Palace). To avoid the crowds, go during lunchtime or toward the end of the afternoon.

For children, the main attractions are likely the weapon and armor collection and the dungeons. If you take part in the guided tour of the dungeons, you will be sure to have a very happy kid when you come out.

Gondola and traghetto rides

Another kid-pleaser is a nice gondola ride (if you do not mind the cost—a whopping €80 for a 30-minute ride). If you want a cheaper alternative, try hopping on a traghetto.

Inside the Museum of Natural History

Traghetti are big gondolas, also called barchette (small boats). You can use a traghetto to cross the Grand Canal at various points. A ride costs just €0.50 and the crossing lasts about 10 minutes. The catch is that passengers have to stand up during the journey, and this can be a bit tricky with the waves rolling around the boats. In any case, it’s definitely an exciting, if short, experience!

Natural History Museum
Fontego dei Turchi-Santa Croce, 1730
Tel.: +39 (0)4 12 75 02 06
Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. (Wednesdays), 10 a.m.-6 p.m. (Saturdays and Sundays)
Getting there: With vaporetto, line 1 or 52 to Riva de Biasio
Admission: €4.50 (adults), €3 (reduced)

Children will also enjoy the Museo di Storia Naturale—the Natural History Museum. Just recently refurbished and reopened, the museum hosts a very interesting collection of fossils and finds from all over the world.

The most interesting (and scary) exhibition is the stuffed animal collection, which the museum has been displaying for over 100 years.

Don’t forget gelato!

No list of kid-friendly activities would be complete without mentioning gelato. For a nice break between traghetto rides and museum visits, seek out one of the gelaterias mentioned in this post.

The post Venice: 5 fun activities for kids in Venice appeared first on EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog.

History of Venice’s Jewish Ghetto

This site was the first Jewish ghetto in the world and was created in 1516, after the authorities of Venice decided that all Jewish people living in Venice (mainly on the island of the Giudecca) had to move to a confined area and could not hold any job apart from those indicated by the Republic of Venice. Among the jobs that Jewish people were allowed to do were money-lending and mercantilism.

At night the gates of the Ghetto would be closed and nobody could go in or out of it. Armed guards on a boat would patrol the surrounding canals.

Getting there

The Jewish Ghetto is located just off Ponte delle Guglie in Cannaregio, at the beginning of the Strada Nuova. As you get off the bridge, turn immediately left and then immediately right under the arch that reads “Sotoportego del Ghetto Vecchio.” This was the former gate.

What to see

You will enter a small dark alley which will lead you into the ghetto. As you step back in time, you’ll notice the quietness and the lack of crowds. Also notice that the buildings here are seven to eight stories high, which is quite unusual for Venice. They were constructed this way because the ghetto was a small confined area, and vertical expansion was the only option.

After you take a look in the nice Jewish bakery displaying all sorts of goodies, continue walking until you reach Campo del Ghetto Nov, where, near the Scuola Grande Tedesca, you’ll find the Jewish Museum of Venice. The museum is located in the main section of the Ghetto and it contains information on the history of Venice’s Jewish community.

After visiting to the museum, stop by the three splendid synagogues in Campo del Ghetto Novo (next to the museum) and then continue towards the other two in Campiello delle Scuole, in the Old Ghetto. In the 18th century, the ghetto had as many as nine synagogues to serve the city’s three “foreign populations” (German, Levantine and Sephardic).

I love to go here, sit on one of the stone benches, and be surrounded by trees, children playing in the campo, people praying and a few tourists sitting in the bars drinking a spritz. The atmosphere is so relaxing— and so completely far away from the crowds of Saint Mark’s Square. I highly recommend making the Jewish Ghetto part of your itinerary in Venice.

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Though Venice may seem to be a less than ideal location for the budget traveler, I assure you that you can visit the city without having to splurge. In fact, here are five things you can do for free.

1. Explore the Lista Di Spagna and the Strada Nuova

If you like shopping and crowds, take a walk through Lista di Spagna and the  Strada Nuova. Every single guide book in the world tells you to avoid it, but I personally don’t mind it. If you like window shopping, walking slowly and seeing lots of people, you must come here.

Start walking from the Santa Lucia Station, by Ponte degli Scalzi, where Lista di Spagna begins. The route starts in Rio terà,  where you will find many masks and souvenir shops. Keep walking and you will reach Campo San Geremia where you can see the church that hosts the relics of Santa Lucia. After the campo there is Ponte delle Guglie, which will lead you into Cannaregio, one of the six “sestieri” (main neighborhoods) of Venice.

Carry on walking and after Rio Tera Leonardo you will pass along Rio Tera’ Maddalena. At the end of this street, you’ll find the lovely Osteria Vecia Carbonera, where you can enjoy some delicious cicheti with a nice spritz. Once you pass this osteria, you will be on the “real” Strada Nova.

Strada Nuova is filled with small shops, ice-cream parlors, osterie, bakeries, patisseries, bars and cafés. The moment you turn either right or left, the crowds disappear.

Giudecca seen from Zattere

2. La Passeggiata Alle Zattere (Walk in Zattere)

The Fondamenta delle Zattere is a long promenade in Dorsoduro, overlooking the Canal of the Giudecca and extending for about one kilometer from Stazione Marittima a San Basilio up to Punta della Dogana, where the Canal enters the Bacino di San Marco. Strolling the Fondamenta is a favorite pastime of locals, especially on Sunday afternoons. Walking and watching the boats and cruises sail by is a great way to relax.

The Fondamenta delle Zattere is sunny and breezy, making it the perfect spot for a stroll in the warmer months. If you get hungry, pop into Nico’s, which serves some of the best ice cream in Venice.

3. Lido Beach

Take a day trip to Lido, Venice’s beach. This is traditionally the place where Venetians go during the hot and stuffy summer months to cool off in the Adriatic Sea. Take line 61/62 to get directly from piazzale Roma to the Lido.

Aside from a section where visitors  pay to use a big umbrella, the beach is completely free. Take a walk along the water to see where the Venetian aristocrats used to sunbathe. The Jewish Cemetery is also nearby.

Lido Beach at sunset

4. Venice’s many parks

It is true: Venice is more stones than trees and plants, but even here there are some lovely little oases of peace and green.

The Giardini Papadopoli is situated by Piazzale Roma and it is the first park you encounter as you enter the city from the bus terminal. I personally remember spending many mornings here during my final year at college, skipping school, preparing for my final exams and getting to know the local young Venetian male population (we are talking about when I was 15, mind you!).

Check out the Giardini Napoleonici (Napoleon Gardens) in Castello. This is the largest green area in the city, and as the name suggests, these gardens were created in the 19th century under the order of Napoleon. The Giardini Reali, located south of Saint Mark’s Square along a beautiful quay, were also built for Napoleon.

And don’t forget the Giardini Savorgnan. These beautiful gardens are in S. Geremia, in the sestiere of Cannaregio, and they are an integral part of Palazzo Savorgnan, which houses the Institute for Tourism Algarotti. There are trees everywhere but there aren’t any edges, so it looks more like a little forest than a garden.

5. Visiting the city’s art galleries

There are many museums in Venice, but there is also a large selection of privately owned art galleries. These are free to enter and display a wide variety of work from both local and international artists.

Here are some gallery highlights:

Contini Art Gallery: S. Marco n°2675/2769, Calle dello Spezier (Campo S. Stefano)
Galleria d’Arte l’Occhio: Dorsoduro 181-185 (near the peggy Guggenheim Collection)
Galleria Ravagnan: Piazza San marco, 50A
Giudecca795 Art Gallery: Fondamenta S.Biagio 795, Giudecca
Melori & Rosenberg Gallery: San Polo 2815/2816 Campiello San Tomà

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Although excited (a bit like a child on Christmas morning), I had no difficulty falling back asleep, lulled by the steady rainfall. At 9 AM, when I went downstairs to breakfast, I headed straight to the hotel’s front door to check out the scene. Sure enough, the water had come, turning my street, the Calle de Botteghe, into a stream.

A metal water guard.

My hotel is the charming, 10-room Locanda Art Deco just off Campo Santo Stefano, in Venice’s San Marco district. Last night before heading to bed, the receptionist had warned me about the water’s expected arrival. “It should start in the morning and peak at 10 AM, when it hits 1.15 meters [above the water table],” he explained. They really have this down to a science.

I’ve been in Venice all week, visiting about 50 hotels for our Venice guide, updating reviews and scouting out new picks. In between rooms, I’ve had a chance to talk water with the hotel owners. Yesterday, one owner showed me a text message she received during the day warning her of today’s expected flooding. They’re high-tech!

The water hits the city unevenly, depending on elevation. The Piazza San Marco is one of the lowest points in the city, and is thus constantly flooded. I took the photo at the top of this post yesterday in the piazza, while hardly any other streets were flooded. Note the pedestrian walkways the city constructs to help tourists cross the most heavily-trafficked areas.

This morning, I approached the hotel’s front door to find a metal guard secured in the doorway, locked against the front of the building to keep the stream at bay.

The Calle de Botteghe, this morning.

The morning receptionist explained that, in fact, the water wasn’t as bad as expected. “They told us to expect 1.15, but it turns out it will only be 1.05,” she told me, with a bit of a smile and a shrug. That’s nothing, in fact. If it goes over 1.2 meters, the water will enter the hotel’s lobby, forcing them to move all of the furniture (and there’s quite a bit!) up a staircase to the second landing.

Meanwhile, outside on the Calle de Botthege, Venetians sloshed by in their rubber boots, unfazed. A delivery man pushed a cart past the hotel stacked with boxes headed for the wine shop next door. Life goes on.

The water is set to peak at 10 AM (which is, by the way, right now as I write this in my room), and then subside over the next hour. The rain stopped about two hours ago, but it will take that long for Venice’s drainage system to do its work.

As for the city’s tourists, you either stay put and wait, or shove off. A British couple sitting at the breakfast table next to me decided to go for it. With the rest of us watching from our tables, they stood a bit apprehensively at the door, behind the metal guard, “Lonely Planet” in hand, sporting their heaviest shoes (decidedly not rubber boots). And then they took the plunge. The water went up over their feet, and they pushed off down the street.

As for me, I’ll give it a few minutes to drain before I set sail. But alas, the rain just picked up again.

Hmmm. Which pair of shoes do you think…

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Glass pass

A trip to Murano is easy, but here’s a quick primer: First, we recommend wandering the streets of Venice proper. Get lost (it’s easy to do!) and browse the windows of the trendy glass shops. Chances are you’ll fall in love with a delicate lamp, or maybe a colorful ashtray, or just a pretty set of wine glasses.

Then, instead of paying retail, hop on a vaporetto and head to Murano. Take in a free glass blowing demonstration. If you’re not visiting one of the bigger factories, there’s no need to make an appointment. Simply stop in and start watching. Most artisans will let you walk right into their warehouses while they’re working. If you’re really lucky, you’ll meet and talk to one of the traditionally trained glass blowers or artists.

Next, ask for a sample (this really only applies to those smaller shops, not factories). Sometimes, they’ll hand you a remnant of colored glass free of charge. Most often, you can buy their unique glass art at a discounted cost.

Or, if you’ve got €5.50 (€3 reduced) to spare, take a tour of the Museo Vetrario (The Glass House). For information including restoration projects and opening and closing times, go here (click on the subheads on the left).

Fun fact: The most well known glass blowers in town are Pauly & C (Compagnia Veneto). Visit their web site (in Italian only) for information about the artists that work there.

Mura-no-no

Ok, so it’s true that people in glass houses (or factories) shouldn’t throw stones. But, just a quick and diplomatic tourist trap note: We’ve heard tales that the Vecchia Murano Glass Factory can be pricey once you’re through the front door. As usual, we suggest sticking with the Ma and Pop glass shops and those single artisan stores.

For more on visiting Murano, go here.

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