Sightseeing in Prague – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Prague: 3 do-it-yourself walking tours https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-3-do-it-yourself-walking-tours.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-3-do-it-yourself-walking-tours.html#respond Tue, 18 Oct 2011 14:11:38 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=20313 Prague was made for walking. At this time of year when Indian summer (or “Babi Leto” in Czech) is upon us, it’s the perfect time to take advantage of the city’s walkability. After all, despite enjoying all the sights and experiencing all the “must-do’s” of a foreign city, it’s those special moments you have along » Read more

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Prague was made for walking. At this time of year when Indian summer (or “Babi Leto” in Czech) is upon us, it’s the perfect time to take advantage of the city’s walkability.

After all, despite enjoying all the sights and experiencing all the “must-do’s” of a foreign city, it’s those special moments you have along the way – stumbling upon a striking statue, turning the corner and discovering the beautiful façade of a building or being taken aback by yet another astounding view – that remain in your mind when you reflect on your travels.

Here are three walks in Prague that I’ve taken many a time. Each step along their paths still satisfies.

Walk 1: Below the bridge, into the park and along the river

On the west side of the Charles Bridge, take a set of stairs down and into the lovely square Na Kampe. Walk straight ahead through the square and into one of the city center’s most lovely parks, also called Kampa. Keep to the side closest to the river.

Most likely you’ll come upon a number of kids playing around three massive statues of children crawling through the park made by Czech artist David Cerny. The statues are just outside the Kampa Museum of Modern Art. For free, you can walk through the outside entryway of the museum where there are several installations. There’s also an area on the ground where you walk over water that flows through a crack in the building that provides a view of the river. Once through the area, and out by the river, walk along the path that borders the water.

You can keep strolling or take a seat on one of the benches and look out at the island just across the way, the boats and the bridges.

Walk 2: Behind the castle, through the park and down into Lesser Town

For this walk, your starting point is the Prazsky Hrad (Prague Castle) tram stop on the street Marianske Hradby. Take a right at this back entrance to the castle, onto U Prasneho mostu and then a left into one of the Castle’s gardens – Kralovska Zahrada (The Royal Garden).

Inside you’ll find several lovely buildings and some stunning views of the city below. At the end of the Garden, where Queen Anne’s Summer Palace rests, you’ll go out the open gate (back onto Marianske Hradby) and make a right. Just a few steps away and on the right, you’ll walk into a park – Chotkovy sady. Here you’ll see some hidden sculptures and be immersed in the foliage of several big, beautiful trees.

Walking straight, you’ll cross over a small bridge and then you can either keep going straight ahead and into Letna park or walk to the left and around the corner (onto the larger street Chotkova) and down a set of stairs into the charming Mala Strana or Lesser Town.

Walk 3: Along the riverfront and back up to view a cubist gem

Starting at Palackeho Namesti (just look for the tram stop of the same name on a map) cross over the street toward the river. Walk down a nearby set of stairs that will take you to the promenade along the water (walk in the direction that will have Prague Castle at your back.).

You’ll pass bikers, see boaters, and have a full view of the cityscape of Prague’s fifth district across the way. At Vyton, which is near a bridge that trains cross over (there is also a tram stop called “Vyton” that you can look for as a marker) go back up on the street and keep walking in the same direction.

Just after passing under the train track bridge, look on your left for the Kovarovic Villa – a house built in the Cubist style by architect Josef Chochol between 1912-13. On the same side of the street, you’ll also pass by the Neo-Classical house by Emil Kralicek and the Sequens Villa (named after the family that constructed it) by Otakar Novotny in a Modernist Rationalist style.

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Prague: A guide to grocery stores and food markets https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-food-shopping-a-guide-to-grocery-stores-and-food-markets.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-food-shopping-a-guide-to-grocery-stores-and-food-markets.html#comments Fri, 16 Sep 2011 15:13:45 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=20125 Food is a great way to get to know a culture, and so is shopping for it. Along with purchasing their foodstuffs in supermarkets, Czechs do their food shopping in smaller markets, special stores just for fruits and vegetables, butcher shops, farmers’ markets (during the summer season), organic (or “bio”) shops and a few other » Read more

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Food is a great way to get to know a culture, and so is shopping for it. Along with purchasing their foodstuffs in supermarkets, Czechs do their food shopping in smaller markets, special stores just for fruits and vegetables, butcher shops, farmers’ markets (during the summer season), organic (or “bio”) shops and a few other offerings.

When traveling, shopping for your food is not only a great way to get to know a place, it’s also a smart way to save some crowns. Here’s a quick guide to food shopping in Prague.

Let’s start with the big boys

The three main supermarkets in Prague are Albert, Billa and Tesco. In my personal experience, Albert caters more to the Czech Republic market, Billa has a bit more quality and Tesco offers the most options for foreign shoppers.

All of them have locations throughout the city. Once inside, shop with a basket or have a 5 or 10 crown on you to insert into the top part of a shopping cart (to unlock the chain holding it to the other carts) if you plan to pick up a lot of items.

Don’t expect aisles and aisles of packaged goods or frozen meals. Do expect lots of interesting yogurts, beer and chocolate! Try new stuff even if you don’t know what it is. It’s fun!

Just a quick pick up

The potraviny, something equivalent to a smaller market or convenience store, can be found on nearly every corner of the city. Here you’ll find more of the essentials. There great places to go if you just need to pick up a few items. They usually stock a small selection of bread, sometimes cheeses and a handful of fruits and vegetables.

If it’s a bit late in the day, look out for something called Vecerka. These are potraviny that stay open later or in some cases, non-stop.

Ovoce a Zelenina (Fruits and Vegetables)

The fruit and vegetable markets are the place to go for the best selection and highest quality of produce. Again, ovoce a zelenina are found throughout the city. Some are just tiny little shops, while others spill out into the streets, with a few even being housed in small huts on the street.

Inside, you usually just select and bag your own goods (small clear plastic baggies are found hanging or in a roll within the fruit and vegetable box). There are still a handful of places where the clerk does it for you; just point, nod and smile.

Enter the land of meat

If you’re a fan of meat, there’s lots of in the Czech Republic. You can’t miss the butcher shop because the meats are prominently displayed in the window. (People stop by and stare as if gazing into a clothing shop window.) And you can’t miss the smell–it starts before you even enter the shop.

I don’t eat much of the stuff, so I’m not a great guide for this one. Just go inside and see what’s on offer.

Farmers’ markets

Although the fall brings an end to the farmers’ market season, they’re definitely worth noting. As I mentioned in a previous post, they just started last year and continue to be packed with shoppers eager for fresh, local goods.

Go early, buy one of the beautiful weaved baskets on offer and start shopping for some delicious Czech specialties.

Of the health food and organic variety

During the past few years, a noticeable number of of bio-portraviny (“bio” is basically the same as organic) have been popping up around the city. To be sure the items are indeed organic, look out for the Czech biozebra mark or the EU organic logo.

There are also a few fair-trade offerings as well as food shops selling Czech-made goods. Founded in 1991, Country Life stores offer organic, fair-trade and a variety of health food options. Many of the products are from the shop’s own eco-farm and organic bakery. In a few locations they have a restaurant or a take-away counter.

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Prague: Day trips to Kutna Hora and Karlstejn Castle https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-day-trips-to-kutna-hora-and-karlstejn-castle.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-day-trips-to-kutna-hora-and-karlstejn-castle.html#comments Thu, 01 Sep 2011 14:44:17 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=19987 One of Prague’s most endearing attributes is that you can hop on a train and find yourself in a completely different environment in a just a short trip. Only kilometers outside the city you can experience the stunning Czech Republic countryside, visit the country’s numerous castles and chateaus or just breathe in the fresh air » Read more

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One of Prague’s most endearing attributes is that you can hop on a train and find yourself in a completely different environment in a just a short trip. Only kilometers outside the city you can experience the stunning Czech Republic countryside, visit the country’s numerous castles and chateaus or just breathe in the fresh air through a romp in one of its forests.

The options for day trips from Prague are nearly endless, but here are two classics.

Kutna Hora

In less than an hour you can arrive in Kutna Hora from Prague’s main train station. Dating back to 1142, the town has a rich history in silver mining and a city center that boasts UNESCO status since 1995.

Along with the Italian Court, the Gothic Stone House and the Gothic St. James’ Church, Kutna Hora’s architectural offerings include St. Barbara’s Cathedral, which was established in 1388 and took 500 years to complete. Just next door is a former Jesuit College that now houses the Czech Republic’s second largest art gallery. Opened in 2010, Central Bohemian Art Gallery – known as GASK – includes both permanent and temporary exhibitions with a focus on 20th-century Czech avant-garde art, but also includes the work of international artists like recently featured Damien Hirst.

Kutna Hora’s most famous attraction, however, is Sedlec Ossuary. Here, over 40,000 bones from those buried there (including victims of the 14th century plague) have been decoratively arranged. The work dates back to 1870 and includes bones that now form a bell, a coat of arms and a chandelier. You can see the name of the artist – Czech woodcarver Frantisek Rint – written (yes, in bones) on the right hand wall.

Karlstejn Castle

Just 45 minutes from Prague by train, Karlstejn is one of the Czech Republic’s most well-admired castles. Perched on top of a hill, this Neo-Gothic structure was founded in 1348 and built by Czech King and Roman emperor Charles IV as a place to protect family jewels.

The castle’s beautiful surroundings only enhance its charm. You’ll get to enjoy it with a good walk from the train and then up the hill, so put on your walking shoes. After your tour, you can explore the lovely forest setting with a walk on a wooded path. There are some restaurants (and unfortunately kitschy tourist goods on the walkway just below the castle), but it’s not a bad idea to pack a lunch to enjoy outside.

For train schedules from Prague to both locations, check idos.cz.

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Prague: 10 things to do for less than €10 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-10-things-to-do-for-under-10-euros.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-10-things-to-do-for-under-10-euros.html#comments Tue, 09 Aug 2011 22:57:49 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=19746 The prices aren’t what they used to be in Prague, but this city in the Czech Republic still offers a variety of cheapo-friendly activities. Here’s a list of a few of them that are sure to keep you entertained, with a few crowns left over to spare. 1. Prague Zoo – Lions and tigers and » Read more

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The prices aren’t what they used to be in Prague, but this city in the Czech Republic still offers a variety of cheapo-friendly activities. Here’s a list of a few of them that are sure to keep you entertained, with a few crowns left over to spare.

1. Prague Zoo – Lions and tigers and a new baby hippo! These are just a few amongst the 5,000 animals that you can Czech-out (sorry) at the Prague Zoo. One of the country’s most popular destinations, the zoo’s cost for admission is just 150 Kc (around 6 Euro).

2. Prague Beer Museum –  This museum just opened this year and while it might sound like a tourist trap, it’s an excellent opportunity to sample from 30 regional beers on tap. Prices for individual beers range from 28 to 55 kc for half-liters. Try the 5-beer sampler (priced according to what brews you choose).

3. DOX Museum of Contemporary Art – Opened in 2002, DOX offers the some of the cities most interesting contemporary arts exhibitions. Once you’ve had a look, head up to the café and sip your drink on the rooftop terrace. Don’t miss the design shop where you can buy authentic Czech design goods and choose from a great selection of books from the Bendox Bookstore. 150 Kc.

4. Petrin Observation Tower – Located on the opposite hill from Prague Castle, walk up the 60 m Petrin Observation Tower – a small version of the Eiffel Tower– for stunning views of the city (100 kc). To get there, take the funicular from Ujezd Street for the price of a public transport ticket.

5. Cafe Slavia – A favorite gathering place for artists and intellectuals since the late 1880’s, Café Slavia is a Prague icon. Along with a coffee and dessert, look out at the National Theater or the Vltava River from Slavia’s Art Deco interior.

6. The Castle Grounds – There’s no need to pay admission to enter the various areas of the castle when you can enjoy it from outside while strolling its lovely gardens. Along with offering some stunning views of the city below, you might stumble upon a music concert or other cultural offering.

7. Historic Tram – Nostalgic line number 91 runs from April through mid-November on weekends. Departing from the Stresovice depot, the rides takes you through the city center. The fare is just 35 Kc. For timetables, have a look here.

8. A walk along the river – A wide stone path runs along the river, where you can view the city’s architecture from a riverside perspective or watch the swans and boats passing by. There are a couple of places to stop for a drink along the way and very often you’ll come upon art installations. It’s free to follow the river through the city.

9. The Municipal Library – Prague’s 42 branches are free and open to the public. Head to the central library on Marianske Square where you can find a moment of quiet and a selection of English books to peruse. At the entrance lobby, take some time to look at the book tunnel sculpture by Slovak artist, Matej Kren.

10. The vineyard at Grebovka – Officially called Havlickovy Sady, this beautiful park – referred to as Grebovka by the locals – is home to a lovely villa, a glass cafe and a functioning vineyard. Perched on the hill just beside it is Grebovka Altan or gazebo. Sip some wine and take in the view of the trees and the city in the distance.

Do you have your own tips for keeping it cheap in Prague? Tell us in the comments below!

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Prague Cemeteries: Retreats of history, art and Kafka https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-cemeteries-retreats-of-history-art-and-kafka.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-cemeteries-retreats-of-history-art-and-kafka.html#respond Tue, 24 May 2011 11:40:42 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=18583 When in Prague, if you seek some respite from the hustle and bustle of the city, several cemeteries offer just that, along with history and art lessons to boot. Perhaps not the first place you think of for a quiet break, Prague’s cemeteries truly offer a silent oasis in the city. Full of trees and » Read more

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When in Prague, if you seek some respite from the hustle and bustle of the city, several cemeteries offer just that, along with history and art lessons to boot. Perhaps not the first place you think of for a quiet break, Prague’s cemeteries truly offer a silent oasis in the city. Full of trees and pleasant walking paths, they’re something akin to a city forest.

Prague is home to about 30 cemeteries that are maintained by the city. Two into which I recommend venturing are located nearly side-by-side in Prague’s third district. Both are free to enter, and hours are posted outside of each.

Olsany Cemetery (Olsanske Hrbitovy)
Vinohradska 1835/153
Praha 3 – Zizkov

Olsany has several entrances. The easiest to locate is the one just to the right of Palac Flora mall. I know it sounds weird having a mall next to a cemetery—and it is—but once down the stairs, through the gate and inside the walls, the mall melts away and is replaced by singing birds, lush trees and ivy growing everywhere.

Founded in 1680, Olsany is the oldest burial ground outside of Prague’s old city walls and the city’s largest, with nearly 1.5 million people buried within it. Comprised of 46 hectares, it was started to accommodate the increased deaths during a plague epidemic at the end of the 17th century.

The cemetery is notable for its many art nouveau monuments. Its oldest stones can be found in the northwestern corner, close to the 17th-century Chapel of St. Roch (“kaple sv Rocha”). Final resting place to actors, writers, artists, politicians and many others, a few of Olsany’s most famous inhabitants include artist and writer Josef Lada, Klement Gottwald (communist president of Czechoslovakia) and Jan Palach (a student who committed self-immolation on Wenceslas Square in 1969 in protest against the Soviet invasion).

The New Jewish Cemetery (Novy zidovsky hrbitov)
Izraelska 712/1
Praha 3 – Zizkov

Located on the same street, just a short walk west and across the busy intersection at Jana Zelivskeho street, the New Jewish Cemetery was built in 1891 when the Old Jewish Cemetery (located in the city center and the more familiar of the two) ran out of space. The New Jewish Cemetery is still in use today.

Home to some 100,000 graves, the New Jewish Cemetery houses tombstones in a wide range of styles including Neo-Gothic, Neo-Renaissance, Art Nouveau, Classicism, Purism and Constructivism. Many monuments were designed by the country’s best-known artists, architects and sculptors.

For example, renowned architect Jan Kotera designed two art-nouveau monuments for members of the Perutz family. Sculptor Josef Vaclav–creator of the famous St. Wenceslas statue on Wenceslas Square–created two busts that adorn one of the cemetery’s most elaborate tombs belonging to the Waldes family.

The cemetery’s most famous inhabitant is world-renowned writer Franz Kafka. When you walk into the cemetery you’ll see a sign directing you to the grave, just a short walk to the right. Designed by architect L. Ehrmann, the tomb’s shape is a hexahedral, truncated crystal. Kafka shares the burial with his parents. Just across from him on the wall is a memorial plaque to Kafka’s friend and promoter, Max Brod.

Other cemeteries

Another cemetery worth having a look at is located in the Vysehrad neighborhood. Here you will find the tombs of author Jan Neruda, writer Karel Capek, poet Karel Hynek Macha and composer Antonin Dvorak. Read more here.

Do you have a favorite cemetery in Prague? Tell us about it in our comments section.

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Prague Spring: 5 outdoor activities to celebrate the season https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-spring-5-outdoor-activities-to-celebrate-the-season.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-spring-5-outdoor-activities-to-celebrate-the-season.html#respond Fri, 18 Mar 2011 11:20:12 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=17351 Alright, so the spring season doesn’t officially start until March 20, but here in Prague the birds are singing and the temperatures have warmed up enough that I can finally wear a lighter coat. I can’t promise that we’ve seen the last gusts of winter, but for now (and later), here are some great ways » Read more

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Alright, so the spring season doesn’t officially start until March 20, but here in Prague the birds are singing and the temperatures have warmed up enough that I can finally wear a lighter coat. I can’t promise that we’ve seen the last gusts of winter, but for now (and later), here are some great ways to celebrate the new season in Prague.

1. Walk aimlessly

I’m a walker, and one of the many reasons I like living in Prague is because it’s a great city to get lost in. Just pick a starting point, start walking and see where the path takes you. It’s a great way to explore the city and stumble upon any of Prague’s myriad treasures.

2. Drink a beer outside

After walking for a while, you’ll naturally get thirsty. Of course there aren’t as many outdoor beer gardens open now as there will be in the summer, but I just passed one yesterday and the people looked like they were in Czech beer heaven. Sipping a brew outside is one of the country’s greatest pleasures; if you don’t do it, well, you just haven’t experienced the Czech Republic. Na zdraví! (That’s “cheers!” in Czech.)

3. Find a park bench

Prague has a number of parks, squares and even little corners with benches to relax, and from which you can watch the world go by. When the temperatures warm up residents emerge from their apartments and take in the sun on their favorite park bench. It’s great people watching!

4. Head to the farmer’s market

Last year a host of farmer’s markets popped up in various locations in the city. They were so popular that they’re doing it again this year, and the season has just begun. At the markets you can find cheeses, breads, fruits, veggies and a variety of Czech specialties. Check out the official Web site (in Czech, but you can translate it online) for info about when and where to find the markets.

5. See what’s in bloom at the Botanical Gardens

Head on up to Prague Botanical Gardens. Open throughout the year, the area includes a Japanese Garden, the Fata Morgana greenhouse and St. Claire’s Vineyard, where you can sample local wines in a lovely wine bar. The gardens are located in a residential area above the city center called Troja, which is an area you might otherwise miss. While there, why not stop by the nearby Zoo and Troja Chateau. Bonus: From March 18- 27, 2011, the Fata Morgana greenhouse is hosting an orchid exhibit.

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Prague: A day and night in the Holesovice neighborhood https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-a-day-and-night-in-the-holesovice-neighborhood.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-a-day-and-night-in-the-holesovice-neighborhood.html#respond Fri, 04 Mar 2011 11:50:38 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=17086 This is the last of a three-post installment giving you a deeper look inside three of Prague’s most interesting neighborhoods. The first took us to the slightly edgy Zizkov neighborhood. The second brought us to a quaint area of this city in the Czech Republic called Vinohrady. This final neighborhood post brings us to Prague’s » Read more

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This is the last of a three-post installment giving you a deeper look inside three of Prague’s most interesting neighborhoods. The first took us to the slightly edgy Zizkov neighborhood. The second brought us to a quaint area of this city in the Czech Republic called Vinohrady.

This final neighborhood post brings us to Prague’s Holesovice district. Located on the other side of the river from Zizkov and Vinohrady, Holesovice is home to two of the city’s best parks (Stromovka and Letna), lots of cafes and tea houses (including one in a tower). Over the past few years it’s been shifting into one of the city’s best art areas, as many of the neighborhood’s old warehouses have been turned into galleries and exhibition spaces.

Here are some specific spots to check out to give you a full day’s worth of activities in Holesovice:

Something to start the day

Ouky Douky Prague

Ouky Douky café and bookshop
Janovského 1118/14, Prague 7, 170 00
Tel: +420 266 711 531

With great coffee and a relaxing vibe, Ouky Douky will start your day on the right foot. Besides good coffee they offer a full menu of breakfast options (as well as lunch and dinner). And after you’re finished, you can slip into the next room to peruse their equally atmospheric bookshop. Offering second-hand books, you’re sure to find a cheapo deal on their decent selection of English-language books. Internet is available, too.

Something to see

National Technical Museum
Kostelní 1320/42, Prague 7, 17078
Tel: +420 220 399 111
Web site

Recently reopened after a four-year renovation, the museum is the Czech Republic’s impressive nod to its proud industrial tradition. The museum includes over 50,000 items in its five permanent exhibitions covering transport, photography, printing, astronomy and architecture.

Something to eat

Fraktal
Smeralova 1, Prague 7, 170 00 Prague 7
Tel: +420 777 794 094
Web site

Fraktal serves great food in a comfortable, laid-back atmosphere. The eclectic menu features a variety of sandwiches, burgers (including veggie), quesadillas, chicken and fish, salads, soups and some interesting smaller dishes. They also have lots of great drinks, as Fraktal is one of the area’s best bars. To top it all of, the prices are cheapo friendly.

Something to buy

Designshop DOX
Dox Centre for Contemporary Art
Poupetova 1, Prague 7, 170 00
Tel: +420 774 145 434
Web site

Okay, maybe it’s not the cheapest option, but you can go home with something truly Czech. This excellent shop – housed inside Dox Centre for Contemporary Art – features items designed by the country’s best artists and artisans, both established and emerging. You’ll find glass, porcelain, jewelry and quirky little objects that show off an excellent sense of Czech humor. The Designshop DOX also carries a great selection of design books.

Something to drink

Cross-club
Plynarni 1096/23, Prague 7, 170 00
Tel: +420 736 535 053
Web site

Although this club is a bit off the beaten path, you can’t miss it. Outside there is an insane (in a good way) huge metal sculpture that looks like a carnival of hubcaps. Inside is just as visually stirring. The club offers music from around the world on two stages, experimental theater, exhibitions and poetry readings. Grab something to eat or drink at the club’s café or grab pizza on the first floor and enjoy it on the outside seating area for a breather before going back inside for more.

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Prague: Vinohrady neighborhood walking tour https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-vinohrady-neighborhood-walking-tour.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-vinohrady-neighborhood-walking-tour.html#respond Tue, 08 Feb 2011 20:25:23 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=16762 This is the second installment of a three-post series dedicated to an in-depth look at three of Prague’s most noteworthy neighborhoods. In the first post we had a look at an edgy, happening area of the city called Zizkov. This second post will take us to the neighborhood of Vinohrady. I like to think of » Read more

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This is the second installment of a three-post series dedicated to an in-depth look at three of Prague’s most noteworthy neighborhoods. In the first post we had a look at an edgy, happening area of the city called Zizkov.

This second post will take us to the neighborhood of Vinohrady. I like to think of Vinohrady as Zizkov’s slightly older, more sophisticated, yet still hip sister. It’s a great place to walk, as it’s full of shops, restaurants and cafes, one of the city’s best squares and some lovely views.

As I did with Zizkov, here are some top spots to check out to have a full day’s worth of activity in Vinohrady!

Something to start to the day

Prague Cafe Fra

Books and coffee at the Cafe Fra. Photo: Lipar

Café Fra
Safarikova 15
120 00 Prague 2-Vinohrady
Tel: 773 458 073
Web site

Open the door and walk down the stairs into this compact, atmospheric café. It actually feels like you’re sitting inside a good book, and it’s no wonder as the wall to your left on entry is full of books. The venue, after all, combines good coffee with a bookstore and its own publishing company. You can also pick up a Moleskin journal. In the warmer months a few tables are set up outside, so you can sip your kava (coffee) or wine, streetside.

Something to see

The neighborhood

As I mentioned, Vinohrady is a nice place to walk, so I’d recommend just taking a stroll through its quaint streets. Café Fra (above) is actually an excellent place from which to begin your journey. Make a left outside the café’s door and then make either an immediate right onto the street Bruselska, which will take you down some quiet, pleasant streets, or go straight ahead onto Belehradska, which is full of shops (including the Antikvariat Belehradska, below). Follow Belehradska until you hit Rumunska, onto which you’ll make a right.

Just a few paces up, you’ll essentially run right into a big square–home to the lovely neo-Gothic St. Ludmila church–called Namesti Miru (Peace Square). If the weather is good, have a seat on one of its benches and take a rest and people watch along with the locals.

Something to eat

Pizzeria Grosseto
Francouzska 79/2
120 00 Praha 2-Vinohrady
Tel: 224 252 778
Web site

Once again, you’re in luck: The Pizzeria Grosseto, one of the two best pizza places in the city, is located directly across from Namesti Miru. I love pizza, so if I’m craving a good pie, this is where you’ll find me (it most often beats out Kmotra, my other favorite pizzeria, because it’s closer to where I live).

Located on a corner, it’s comprised of one big floor and a balcony area with about five more tables. Besides pizza, the restaurant also offers pasta dishes, salads and soups. In summer, definitely ask to sit in the garden (out back, just around the corner).

FYI: They recently opened another location right on the Vltava river (but it gets crowded fast).

Something to buy

Antikvariat Belehradska
Belehradska 644/96
120 00 Prague 2-Vinohrady, Czech Republic
Tel: 222 521 043
Web site

Back on Belehradska street, head into Antikvariat Belehradska. Antikvariats are scattered around the city. They’re a special kind of antique shop carrying rare books, prints, stamps, maps, postcards and other unique paper items. Be sure to have a look at the bins hanging from the windowsills outside, as they hold discounted items. You will find a small selection of English books inside, but most of the fun is looking through all the treasures.

Something to drink

Vinecko Wine Bar
Londýnská 135/29
120 00 Praha 2
Tel: 222 511 035
Web site

This hopping little wine bar is a refreshing way to begin, or carry out, the evening. With two rooms and two garden seating areas in summer, Vinecko offers yummy wines from the Czech Republic as well as abroad. If you get hungry, they offer some light snacks. Be sure to get there early or make a reservation beforehand, however, as this place gets packed early on.

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Prague: A day in the Zizkov neighborhood https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-a-day-in-the-zizkov-neighborhood.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-a-day-in-the-zizkov-neighborhood.html#comments Fri, 21 Jan 2011 11:57:13 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=16389 Prague is comprised of 22 administrative districts (referred to as Prague 1—or “Praha 1” in Czech, Prague 2, Prague 3 and on and on). However, when Czechs refer to the area or neighborhood they are in, they use the cadastral area name as opposed to a number. To clarify, look at the street signs (red » Read more

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Prague is comprised of 22 administrative districts (referred to as Prague 1—or “Praha 1” in Czech, Prague 2, Prague 3 and on and on). However, when Czechs refer to the area or neighborhood they are in, they use the cadastral area name as opposed to a number.

To clarify, look at the street signs (red rectangular signs with white lettering, located at the beginning of the street on the side of a building) where you’ll see the name of the street, with the name of the cadastral area below it, followed by “Praha 1” or whichever district number you happen to be in.

For this post, we’re going to the area of Zizkov (located in Prague 3). This will begin a series of three posts dedicated to a particular neighborhood of the city, which I highly recommend venturing into. Each will include a look at several spots to visit to experience the area (essentially a full day’s worth of activity!).

Zizkov at a glance

I’ve heard Zizkov referred to as the “Harlem of Prague.” Not knowing Harlem, I can’t say whether the comparison is true, but I understand that the reference was made to convey Zizkov’s slightly edgy feel (in comparison to areas in the dead center, like Old Town or New Town). I personally recognize Zizkov for its numerous bars, clubs, restaurants and cafes. To me the neighborhood feels like a place where people live as opposed to a place where people did live that got turned into a tourist area.

Here’s where to go:

1. Something to start the day

Café Pavlac
Víta Nejedlého 487/23
130 00 Praha 3
Hours: Mon-Fri, 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat and Sun, noon-11 p.m.

Serving breakfast (as well as lunch and dinner), which of course includes coffee, this well-designed café’s name refers to the art gallery it contains. (“Pavlac” means gallery.) Although the gallery doesn’t seem to change very often, the interior of the space is, in itself, something pretty to look at. Its centerpiece is a steel bar with a swirly design made from tiny points that light shines through. Don’t miss the garden courtyard in summer!

2. Something to see

Vitkov National Memorial
U Pamatniku 1900
Praha 3

After a coffee, get your blood pumping further with a big hike up the hill to Vitkov. Completed in 1932, this robust functionalist building was recently reopened after a two-year renovation (and several years remaining functionless). It contains the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and a gigantic statue that you can see at various points throughout the city: the Hussite leader Jan Zizka on a horse (it’s said to be the largest equestrian statue in the world).

The memorial is also now home to the museum of modern Czechoslav and Czech history. Its café offers an exceptional view of the city, which you can actually view best via the building’s look-out point (80 Czk). Of course you can opt to skip all that and just grab a bench or a spot on the grass in the park next to the memorial. The views from the park are stellar, as well!

3. Something to eat

Taverna Olympos
9 Kubelikova
130 00 Praha 3
Web site

My pick for lunch doesn’t serve Czech food, but rather some of the city’s best Greek dishes. Think hummus, tzatziki, grilled meats, ouzo and baklava served in an atmospheric courtyard setting. Although the prices are just fare, you can save a bit by making a meal out of hot and cold starters. Getting a good table for lunch at the Taverna Olympos is usually pretty easy, but it wouldn’t hurt to make a reservation (which is a good idea on the weekend and necessary for dinner).

4. Something to buy

Flamingopark
Vlkova 11
130 00 Prague 3

Owned by an Australian and Czech couple, this eclectic shop offers home accessories, clothing, jewelry, bags, toys and various other limited edition gift options. Personally selected by the duo, they write on their website, “We source our products and suppliers personally. No bulk manufacturing, no middleman. We try to find our way to the artisans, designers and skilled workmen to collaborate with them to produce unique products that we can then present to you.”

5. Something to drink and beyond

Palac Akropolis
Kubelíkova 1548/27
130 00, Praha 3
Web site

Comprised of a big hall, a small hall, a theater bar and a café and restaurant, Akropolis is a mainstay of culture in Prague. Featuring acts from all over the world, this music, theater and drinking venue is so many things (sometimes all in one night) that you can’t help but have a great time there. Descend into its labyrinth for the evening and you’ll most likely emerge (chances are, at the crack of dawn) with memories of a night that you’ll hold dear forever.

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Prague: John Lennon’s Wall celebrates an era of resistance https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-john-lennons-wall-celebrates-an-era-of-resistance.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/prague-john-lennons-wall-celebrates-an-era-of-resistance.html#respond Thu, 16 Dec 2010 19:06:36 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=15958 This year, December 8 not only marked the 30th anniversary of John Lennon’s death, but also the 30th anniversary of one of Prague’s most unique landmarks: Prague’s John Lennon Wall. Behind the wall Created by Czechs as a kind of shrine to John Lennon in the days just following his death, the wall was marked » Read more

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This year, December 8 not only marked the 30th anniversary of John Lennon’s death, but also the 30th anniversary of one of Prague’s most unique landmarks: Prague’s John Lennon Wall.

Behind the wall

Created by Czechs as a kind of shrine to John Lennon in the days just following his death, the wall was marked with short messages, song lyrics and portraits of him.

However, when the then-communist authorities, who saw the wall as a symbol of Western ideals, painted it over and broke up the gatherings that were held each year on the anniversary, the wall became a symbol of freedom and the peaceful rebellion of the Czech youth against the regime. Never letting up on the freedom that they demanded was rightfully theirs, the youths kept on putting up new markings and continued the gatherings where they lit candles and left flowers each year.

Located not far from the Charles Bridge in a quiet area of Prague’s Mala Strana district, it’s definitely a piece of history not to be missed.

Address: Velkoprevorske Namesti
Metro: Malostranska (Green line A); Tram: 12, 20, 22, 23 to “Malostranske namesti” or “Hellichova”

 

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