Bulgaria – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 5 Affordable Ski Villages in Europe: The best budget-friendly slopes https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/5-affordable-ski-villages-in-europe-hitting-the-slopes-on-the-cheap.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/5-affordable-ski-villages-in-europe-hitting-the-slopes-on-the-cheap.html#comments Mon, 06 Jan 2020 12:12:43 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=47410 No doubt about it, Europe has great slopes to offer skiers of all ages or skills. But if you venture up the most famous mountains in Austria or Switzerland, they’ll set you back a pretty penny, with expensive ski passes, overpriced food, pricey accommodation… you name it. However, snow hounds on a budget, shouldn’t despair. » Read more

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No doubt about it, Europe has great slopes to offer skiers of all ages or skills. But if you venture up the most famous mountains in Austria or Switzerland, they’ll set you back a pretty penny, with expensive ski passes, overpriced food, pricey accommodation… you name it.

However, snow hounds on a budget, shouldn’t despair. Europe still has many great destinations where you can speed down snow-covered mountains at lower prices. We’ve gathered our top five spots for budget skiing in Europe, located in five different countries. We’re here to help you plan your next European ski trip, the cheapo way!


Top 5 destinations for budget skiing in Europe

1. Bansko, Bulgaria

Located about 100 miles from Sofia’s airport, Bansko has the longest ski season in Bulgaria, with snow-covered slopes from mid-December to mid-May. The town is nestled at the foot of the scenic Pirin Mountains and features a quaint old town square with stone buildings mixed in with modern lodges and restaurants that have popped up in recent years.

The ski runs are located in two main areas: Chalin Valog (3,600 – 5,250 feet) and Shilgarnika (5,577 – 8,202 feet). Although it does offer one black ski run, this ski resort is more suitable for beginner or intermediate skiers. Snowboarders can try out new tricks at the Balkans’ first snow park, complete with a half-pipe for ripping up the flakes.

Hotels: Rates start as low as $30 for a double room in Bansko. Search for accommodations in Bansko.

2. Kranjska Gora, Slovenia

Slovenia’s best-known ski resort is located a mere four miles from the border of both Italy and Austria, but you can blaze down the slopes here for far less cash. Kranjska Gora, a narrow valley situated between the Julian Alps and the Karavanke, offers nearly 20 miles of ski slopes serviced by 16 ski lifts, as well as breathtaking alpine views.

This family-friendly ski resort has several slopes ranging from around 2,600 to 5,325 feet. Although most of the trails are geared towards the beginner or intermediate skier, the Podkoren trail is more demanding. In fact, some of the world’s best skiers compete on this run every year for the acclaimed Vitranc Cup in men’s slalom and giant slalom races.

Hotels in Kranjska Gora: Rates for four-star hotels start under $70 per night. Search over 250 hotels in Kranjska Gora.

Riding the lift up the trails of Livigno, Italy. Photo: Peter

Riding the lift up the trails of Livigno, Italy with the village in the background. Photo: Peter

3. Livigno, Italy

Because of its remote location high up in the mountains of northern Italy, Livigno ski resort is known to locals as “Piccollo Tibet” (Little Tibet). Located near the Swiss border, Livigno makes an excellent alternative for skiers on a budget. Not only are the prices far less than their Swiss neighbors, this area, known as the Spol Valley, also enjoys a duty-free status. This means you can hit the slopes, then shop ‘til you drop, before partaking in a little lively après ski party time. Most suited to intermediate skiers, Livigno does have a handful of black runs as well as a snow park.

Hotels: The village of Livigno is comprised of three original villages that have merged to create a resort town that runs about 2.5 miles long. When choosing accommodation, make sure you have easy access to the ski lift and amenities. Although the village does offer a free ski bus service, the service doesn’t run regularly and stops fairly early in the evening. Search over 500 hotels in Livigno.

Skiing down into the valley at Brauneck Bergbahn. Photo: Sebastian W.

Skiing down into the valley at Brauneck Bergbahn. Photo: Sebastian W.

4. Brauneck Bergbahn, Germany

Located just over an hour south of Munich, the ski area on Brauneck Mountain has a lot to offer skiers of all ages and abilities. A family-friendly ski resort, Brauneck has everything from children’s areas with ski schools to cross-country ski trails and World Cup ski runs.

The town of Lenggries has a storybook charm. You’ll find plenty of guesthouses off country roads that serve up local Bavarian cuisine and beer at a nice price. If you want to add some sightseeing to your ski vacation, great sights and cities such as Munich, Salzburg, Oberammergau, Germany’s Romantic Road, and Neuschwanstein are all an easy drive an hour or less away.

Hotels: Find rooms for $100 and up in Lenggries.

Skiers getting ready to hit the slopes of Zakopane. Photo: MoFA

Skiers getting ready to hit the slopes of Zakopane. Photo: MoFA

5. Zakopane, Poland

Zakopane is a ski resort nestled in the Tatra mountains, about two hours south of Krakow. An airport transfer bus from both Krakow and Katowice is possible, with prices ranging from $90 for 1 to 3 people. Most lifts in the area offer a pay-as-you-go rate. For beginners, this means lower prices than the more common day pass at other resorts, and more advanced skiers hankering to hit the slopes hard will still pay less than they would at pricier resorts in Western Europe.

Zakopane also boasts plenty of cheap eats and bargain drinks, so be sure and chow down on some pierogi washed down with a Polish Zywiec beer after your day of snowy fun. Check out our guide to Zakopane, Poland’s premier mountain resort.

Hotels in Zakopane: Rooms can be found for $50 and under per night. Search over 1,000 hotels in Zakopane.


Do you have a favorite ski slope that won’t break the bank? Let us know in the comments!

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European Capital of Culture: Plovdiv 2019 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/2019-european-capitals-of-culture-plovdiv-matera.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/2019-european-capitals-of-culture-plovdiv-matera.html#comments Wed, 21 Nov 2018 15:09:59 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=52129 It’s never too early to start planning next year’s European vacations. If you’re looking for somewhere new to explore in 2019, you should think about booking a trip to one of the European Capitals of Culture: Plovdiv, Bulgaria. If you’ve never been to Plovdiv, you can enjoy a new European destination while soaking in world-class » Read more

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It’s never too early to start planning next year’s European vacations. If you’re looking for somewhere new to explore in 2019, you should think about booking a trip to one of the European Capitals of Culture: Plovdiv, Bulgaria.

If you’ve never been to Plovdiv, you can enjoy a new European destination while soaking in world-class cultural events from contemporary art and dance to theater, food, and music. We’ve written about our love of Plovdiv before, and now we’re excited to see what happens in 2019 and the coming years.

Plovdiv is planning on going all out with parades, educational forums, and community workshops. The festivities are already underway, but the real fun kicks off on the weekend of January 11, 2019, in the center of the city with an exciting show filled with dance, light, and music.

But what exactly is a European Capital of Culture?

The official flag of Plovdiv 2019.


European Capital of Culture

The idea was conceived in 1985 as a way to bring Europe closer together through cultural and artistic events and honor the rich diversity of the continent. Since the idea was launched, more than 40 cities have been chosen for the honor.

Impact of being a European Capital of Culture

Being named a European Capital of Culture has been a driving force in raising the profile of several cities across the continent. Along with offering the local population a point of pride, the event can attract thousands of new visitors to a city. In the early years, big cities like Athens, Paris, and Berlin were chosen. In subsequent years, the designation moved on to more-under-the-radar destinations like Tallin, Lille, and Essen.

2019 Cities

For 2019, two cities have been selected: Plovdiv, Bulgaria and Matera, Italy (recently featured in the New York Times). This is a huge opportunity for both cities to showcase their beauty and culture. But it’s especially the case for Plovdiv, which has long stood in the shadow of the capital city, Sofia. It really is a once-in-a-lifetime chance for Plovdiv to make a name for itself and attract more visitors from around Europe and the world.

The official slogan for Plovdiv 2019: Together.

Plovdiv 2019

Recently, I had the chance to visit Plovdiv to check in on the preparations for 2019 and learn more about this fascinating city. As one of the oldest in the world, dating back more than 8,000 years, Plovdiv is located at the crossroads of East and West. With Roman ruins expertly integrated into the city, an attractive old town filled with lovely examples of Bulgarian National Revival architecture, and lively street life, Plovdiv is a pleasant surprise for visitors who come from all over the world.

The charm of the city is easy to find. You just need to stroll down the main pedestrian street, sip a cocktail in the hip neighborhood of Kapana, or climb up the hill in the Old Town for amazing views. You’ll never need to hop on a bus or even worry about crosswalks — most of the main attractions in the city are in fully pedestrianized zones.

Even without the exciting events planned for next year, Plovdiv is worth your attention. If you’re looking for a new weekend city getaway, Plovdiv should be near the top of your list.

The Tobacco City has the potential to be a vibrant part of the city again through art and culture.

The 2019 festivities are bringing old neighborhoods to life including Tobacco City, a series of warehouses that have fallen into disrepair but are now starting to be revitalized. The re-thinking of urban spaces is a big part of Plovdiv 2019, and the events offer a unique opportunity for locals to interact with their own city in new ways.

As a city boasting a vibrant local art scene, Plovdiv 2019 will also offer the chance for local artists to show off their talents. During my visit, there were musicians playing from patios along the main street, performers on the street, and public concerts in the main square to kick off the 2019 celebration. You can expect a lot more of that next year.

Celebrating the opening night program.

2019 Capital of Culture Events in Plovdiv

The talented team behind the festivities are pulling out all of the stops with an impressive lineup of activities. The events are divided into four categories: Fuse, Transform, Revive, and Relax.

A few of the highlights include:

“Chitalishta” Project
Listen to Us – Artistic Intelligence
• “European Odyssey 2019. The Travelling Man”
Ayliak Parade
Love Swing Dance Festival

Check out the full program in Plovdiv here and sign up for updates on their newsletter.

Plovdiv travel tips

Get a jump on the fun before the crowds start flocking to Plovdiv. If you need more information on visiting this vibrant city, check out our budget guide to visiting Plovdiv.

You can also search and book more than 600 hotels in Plovdiv. Rates for nice rooms with a private bathroom start under $30! One of our favorites is the spectacular Guest House Old Plovdiv, one of the finest hostels in the world.

For more information on the 2019 Culture of Capital cities, you can check the official websites for Plovdiv 2019 and Matera 2019.

The hilltop view of Plovdiv from Alyosha Monument.

Your experiences

Have you ever been to a European Capital of Culture? Let us know in the comments below.


Editor’s Note: Accommodations and transportation were provided by Plovdiv 2019 Foundation.

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A Budget guide to Plovdiv, Bulgaria https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/budget-guide-to-plovdiv-bulgaria.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/budget-guide-to-plovdiv-bulgaria.html#comments Thu, 17 Nov 2016 20:16:25 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=45834 If you plan on visiting Bulgaria, don’t overlook the country’s second-largest city — Plovdiv. Packed with old-world architecture, an impressive ancient Roman theater, and one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe, Plovdiv is an excellent choice for budget travelers with a taste for culture. And speaking of culture, Plovdiv is scheduled to be the » Read more

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If you plan on visiting Bulgaria, don’t overlook the country’s second-largest city — Plovdiv.

Packed with old-world architecture, an impressive ancient Roman theater, and one of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe, Plovdiv is an excellent choice for budget travelers with a taste for culture.

And speaking of culture, Plovdiv is scheduled to be the European Capital of Culture in 2019, so you can expect to hear a lot more about this magnificent city. Plan a trip now before everyone has it on their European itinerary!

Here’s how to visit Plovdiv on a budget.

Getting to Plovdiv

From London: Direct flights from London Stansted Airport are offered on Ryanair (3.5 hours, one-way fares from $40).

Search for cheap flights to Europe

From Sofia: You can take a train to Plovdiv in 2.5 hours, but most locals prefer the bus because the train timetable is not always reliable. The bus leaves from the Central Sofia Station every hour, and the ride takes 2 hours to reach Plovdiv. A one-way fare is around $10.

Tip: Keep your ticket handy to check for your seat assignment.

The charming and super cheap Old Plovdiv Guesthouse. Photo: Craig Nelson

Old Plovdiv Guesthouse is a paradise for budget travelers. Photo: Craig Nelson

Where to stay

It’s easy to find good deals on hotels across Bulgaria but Plovdiv has especially low prices. You can stay in a modern luxury hotel for half the price of many European cities, but what really stands out are the cozy and affordable guesthouses. Private rooms in these charming accommodations go for an incredibly low price — under $50 a night. Here are a few of our favorites in the Old Town:

Guest House Old Plovdiv
There’s an appealing old-world feel to this budget hotel with free breakfast. Rooms are furnished with antique furnishings and vintage art. The super friendly staff will welcome you with open arms (and a cold glass of lemonade). Read about our “hotel crush” on Guest House Old Plovdiv.

Residence Art Guest House
Behind the colorful facade, you’ll find modern rooms that feature city views and Wi-Fi. The price is hard to beat with double rooms with a private bathroom coming in under $20 and triple rooms for less than $30.

Guest House Maison 21
You can find double rooms with shared bathrooms for under $30 at this guesthouse in the heart of old town. Cheapos will love the shared kitchen to make meals. Groups or families may want to book one of the apartments for extra space.

Search over 700 hotels in Plovdiv on EuroCheapo

Getting around Plovdiv

If you love to walk, then you’ll love exploring this city. The main tourist areas are very compact and easy to navigate without a car. In fact, the Old Town has gates preventing most vehicles from entering. One of Europe’s longest pedestrians routes runs right through the central city stretching for over a mile.

Tip: Wear comfy shoes because the city is built on seven hills and there are many cobblestone streets.

A view from Park XXX Photo: Craig Nelson.

Enjoy the view from Nebet Tepe, one of the seven hills of Plovdiv. Photo: Craig Nelson.

Free and cheap things to do

Free Plovdiv Tour
This 3-hour walking tour is a fantastic introduction to the history and layout of the city. If you can join this tour on your first day in Plovdiv, you’ll get a good feel for the city. Tours leave at 11 am and 6 pm every day of the week. There is no charge, but you are encouraged to tip the guide if you enjoy the experience. Check out the Free Plovdiv Tour website for more details.

Plovdiv Old Town
Wander the cobblestone streets of this historic district filled with spectacular architecture, churches, museums, and gift shops. Walk through an amazing history that stretches from Roman times to the beautifully preserved houses from the 19th century. Most of the hotels we recommend are based here.

Kapana (The Trap)
Despite its ominous nickname, this neighborhood is bustling with a creative energy. Visit Kapana during the day to check out trendy boutiques, eateries, and galleries, then come back when the sun goes down to explore the nightlife scene.

Discover cafes and galleries in the Kapana neighborhood. Photo: Craig Nelson

Discover cafes and galleries in the Kapana neighborhood. Photo: Craig Nelson

Ancient Roman Theater
Holding up to 7,000 spectators, this spectacular landmark is one of the best preserved ancient theaters in the world and a highlight of Plovdiv. Mountains frame the backdrop of the stage flanked by gigantic columns. It makes for a dramatic setting, and yes, they still host live performances (see the culture section below).

Tsar Simeon Gardens
On a sweltering day, the lake and fountains of this public park make a cool spot to take a break from sightseeing. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, you can watch the Singing Fountains light up the night  at 9:30 pm.

Regional Ethnographic Museum
Documenting the rich culture and history of Plovdiv, the Regional Ethnographic Museum features displays on traditional crafts, agriculture, clothing, and much more. Even if you don’t have time to check out the exhibits, the historic house and gardens are an attraction all themselves. The architecture is an outstanding example of Baroque design from the mid-19th century. Entry costs about $5.

Ethnographic Museum. Photo: Craig Nelson

Discover local culture at the Regional Ethnographic Museum. Photo: Craig Nelson

The main pedestrian street
Stroll past countless shops and restaurants along “Knyaz Aleksandar”, a vibrant street that stretches over a mile long. Keep an eye out for the Dzhumaya Mosque that dates back to the 15th century and the ancient Roman stadium ruins that are hiding beneath your feet. Grab a seat at a cafe or follow the locals’ lead and just wander at your own pace.

Nebet Tepe
For a lovely view of the city, make a detour from the winding cobblestone streets of Old Town to one of the spots where ancient Plovdiv began. Situated amid archaeological ruins, Nebet Tepe (Prayer Hill) is a sweet little park where you can relax and soak in the view.

Shopska salad and a cold beer at Restaurant Rahat Tepe. Photo: Craig Nelson

Shopska salad and a cold beer at Restaurant Rahat Tepe. Photo: Craig Nelson

Eating and drinking

Old Town is brimming with restaurants — and tourists — so the prices here can be higher than elsewhere in the city. There are a few affordable options, but you might want to wander outside this district to find the best deals. Here are a few cheap eats that we like in Plovdiv:

Restaurant Rahat Tepe
Up the street from the Ethnographic Museum is Restaurant Rahat Tepe, a lively eatery and beer garden. You can sample traditional cuisine like grilled meats or just sip a Kamenitza (a popular beer in Bulgaria) at one of the outdoor tables. A full meal with appetizer, drinks, and main course won’t run you more than $10.

Grazhdanski Klubb
Take a seat on the patio for heaping portions of classic Bulgarian dishes. If the weather isn’t cooperating, head for the comfy dining room. This is one of the most affordable restaurants in Old Town.

Restaurant Megdana
Want a side of Bulgarian folk dancing with your meal? Try Restaurant Megdana for a night of traditional cuisine and fun entertainment. Despite the popularity with tourists, the prices are very reasonable. Be prepared to dance!

Tip: Head to Kapana (The Trap) neighborhood that’s filled with small restaurants and cafes. Pick one where the locals are spilling out onto the street.

Culture on the cheap

Plovdiv has an energetic arts scene with literature events, gallery openings, opera, chamber music, and live theater. Check the Visit Plovdiv Culture Calendar to see what’s going on.

Balabanov House
This architectural gem is open for tours, but the real draw at Balabanov House is the wide range of live performances from theater to classical music. The Balabanov House Music Days festival brings world-class talent to the city every spring and autumn.

A live opera on the stage of the Ancient Roman Theater. Photo: Craig Nelson

A live opera on the stage of the Ancient Roman Theater. Photo: Craig Nelson

Ancient Roman Theatre
On my first day in town, the Free Plovdiv Tour took me right by the theater when they were rehearsing for an opera. I made a note to come back later that evening. Tickets were available ($5-20), but instead, I just grabbed a table at an outdoor cafe that overlooked the stage. A glass of raki (a traditional spirit) and a live performance cost me no more than $5. The surprising fireworks display was a brilliant conclusion to my introduction to Plovdiv!

Have you been to Plovdiv? Share your tips in the comments!

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Bulgaria Hotel Crush: Guest House Old Plovdiv https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-hotel-crush-guest-house-old-plovdiv.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-hotel-crush-guest-house-old-plovdiv.html#respond Fri, 05 Aug 2016 15:56:30 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=45893 It’s always exciting to visit a new city and stay at a new hotel — especially when it surpasses your expectations. I had heard from many people that Plovdiv was one of the gems of Bulgaria, so when I added this ancient city to my itinerary, I started searching for a hotel. You can easily find » Read more

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It’s always exciting to visit a new city and stay at a new hotel — especially when it surpasses your expectations. I had heard from many people that Plovdiv was one of the gems of Bulgaria, so when I added this ancient city to my itinerary, I started searching for a hotel.

You can easily find plenty of nice modern hotels for under $75, but I wanted to stay in the Old Town (Stari Grad) where the hotels and surrounding streets have a little more character. One affordable hotel stuck out when I began looking at reviews on Booking.com and TripAdvisor — Old Plovdiv Guest House. The enchanting neighborhood is also great for exploring Plovdiv with a good location for visiting the ancient Roman theater, the lively Kapana district, and one of the best views in the city.

Related: A budget travel guide to Plovdiv

I was happy when I walked up to the front door and found a handsome historic house. After a quick snapshot of the front entrance, I stepped into the lobby and was greeted by a sweet little cat on the rug. A self-described “boutique hostel”, Old Plovdiv has a friendly staff running the show. The clerk behind the front desk pointed out the handmade sign they had made for me that I totally missed on my way in. As we sat out on the patio to talk about the details of the hotel, she grabbed me a glass of cold lemonade. Later on, I met the very friendly owner and we exchanged tales about New York. He also told me how the hotel was once the home of a wealthy tobacco merchant and dates back to 1838.

Guest House Old Plovdiv offers a charming location in the heart of the city. Photo: Craig Nelson

Guest House Old Plovdiv offers a charming location in the heart of the old city. Photo: Craig Nelson

Spacious rooms with historic touches

The private single room I stayed in cost €30 (including tax) for the night. It was more than spacious with two twin beds on either side of the room, hardwood floors that are over 130 years old, and free Wi-Fi. I was traveling on my own, but if you had two people, there was more than enough room to spread out and enjoy a bit of privacy. The shared bathroom was clean and right outside the door which was very convenient for washing up at night or an early morning shower.

Guest House Old Plovdiv Entrance

The antique furnishings are a very nice touch, and the bed was surprisingly comfortable. Photo: Craig Nelson

True to its name, there were old furnishings and touches everywhere you looked. I loved the antique details such as the old-time radio and period sitting chairs. On the walls, there were framed historic photos and newspaper clippings from years ago.

When I visited Plovdiv in June, there was a big heat wave across the country with temperatures soaring over 100 degrees. Luckily, my room had one amenity that was very modern — efficient air-conditioning! It came in handy as I popped back in and out to cool down throughout the day.

Cheapo tip: If you want to save even more, you can get a bed in a dorm room for around $10.

A personal greeting was a wonderful way to start your visit. Photo: Craig Nelson

A personal greeting was a wonderful way to start my visit. Photo: Craig Nelson

Beautiful common spaces

The 2nd-floor common room felt more like an elegant library in a private club than a space in an budget hotel. Spending a few minutes during the heat of the day reading about Plovdiv was an excellent use of my time. You can also connect to the free Wi-Fi from here.

The elegant common room at Guest House Old Plovdiv. Photo: Booking.com

The elegant common room at Guest House Old Plovdiv. Photo: Booking.com

Free breakfast on the outdoor patio

Your stay comes with a traditional European breakfast that offers a Bulgarian twist. The nice spread of items included your basic meats and breads but also local delicacies like feta cheese and olives. The coffee machine is always on, so you can grab an espresso or latte at any time of day. When I first arrived in the afternoon, it was nice to get a little shot of caffeine before heading out to explore Plovdiv.

Free breakfast on the patio is a perfect way to start your day in Plovdiv. Photo: Craig Nelson

Free breakfast on the patio is a perfect way to start your day in Plovdiv. Photo: Craig Nelson

If you have time, it’s worth ordering a beer or glass of wine at the bar to sip on the leafy patio. It’s just one of the many features that makes this hotel an excellent value for your money. Yes, I have a major crush on Guest House Old Plovdiv!

Guest House Old Plovdiv Patio

The patio is open all day, and you can order a cold beer from the bar for less than $1.

Want to enjoy your own adventure in Plovdiv Old Town? Search for available dates and book a room at Guest House Old Plovdiv.

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Kosovo Houses in Bulgaria: An affordable escape to a scenic mountain village https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/exploring-bulgaria-visit-kosovo-houses.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/exploring-bulgaria-visit-kosovo-houses.html#respond Mon, 18 Jul 2016 16:08:48 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=45615 Have you ever been to Kosovo? And no, I’m not talking about the state in the Balkans. The Kosovo I’m talking about is a tiny and picturesque Bulgarian village nestled in the Rhodope Mountains about an hour from Plovdiv and two hours from Sofia. Home to only eight permanent residents, Kosovo, Bulgaria is a beautiful but » Read more

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Have you ever been to Kosovo? And no, I’m not talking about the state in the Balkans. The Kosovo I’m talking about is a tiny and picturesque Bulgarian village nestled in the Rhodope Mountains about an hour from Plovdiv and two hours from Sofia.

Home to only eight permanent residents, Kosovo, Bulgaria is a beautiful but very sleepy place. However, new life is springing back into this lovely hill town thanks to the Kosovo Houses, an affordable guesthouse that offers a relaxing stay well off the beaten path. It’s also the perfect gateway to Rhodope Mountains — a region stretching from southern Bulgaria into Greece that’s filled with natural wonders, ancient fortresses, and regional cuisine.

During a recent three-day stay, in between hikes and sightseeing trips, I was able to soak in the atmosphere of this scenic mountain guesthouse. Featuring rooms with warm traditional Bulgarian design, lovely views of the surrounding hills, and breakfast at the cozy tavern, the prices (starting at about $50 per night for a double room) make the Kosovo Houses a very cheapo getaway for those looking to explore territories off the standard European circuit.

A stone path winds its way up to the Kosovo Houses.

A stone path winds its way up to the Kosovo Houses.

Accommodations

The Kosovo Houses are actually spread around several restored houses in the village, all located within easy walking distance of each other. I stayed in the main guesthouse, The Hadjiyska House, that was named after architect Hadji Georgi Stanchovski, who built the original structure in 1853 as his home. Each of the eight cozy rooms offers little touches like wooden chairs and bedside tables with antique-style lamps.

Each room has several intricate rustic details that capture the spirit of Bulgarian design.

Each room has several intricate rustic details that capture the spirit of Bulgarian design.

The Wi-Fi worked well in my room and in the tavern, and there’s also satellite TV in each room. But other than my curiosity to watch a few local Bulgarian channels, I had no interest in staring at screens. Getting away from your regular routine is what Kosovo Houses is all about. At night, I opened my window to look out over the hills at the moon and stars. I quickly fell asleep to the sounds of crickets chirping and a few dogs barking in the distance.

The Hadjiyska House is the main guesthouse just a few steps from the tavern.

The Hadjiyska House is the main guesthouse just a few steps from the tavern.

The modern bathroom has a glass shower cabin with a handheld shower head and a wide sink. My bathroom in Room 8 even had a peek-a-boo view out over the hills (although one night I left the window open and found a giant grasshopper greeting me in the morning!).

Traditional Bulgarian design is prevalent throughout Kosovo Houses.

Traditional Bulgarian design is prevalent throughout Kosovo Houses like this common room in The Hadjiyska House.

A Focus on traditional design

The friendly Bulgarian owners and hosts, Svetlana and Christo, spent many years living in Venezuela before deciding to come back to their homeland. They searched the Rhodope Mountains looking for a special village to open a guesthouse. They discovered Kosovo and started to restore abandoned houses in a traditional style.

Using the original foundations, they hired expert craftsmen from the surrounding area to reconstruct several homes using their knowledge of intricate stone roofs and Bulgarian design. From the handmade wooden ceilings to the colorful carpets, these rustic details offer a warm and comfortable experience in every room.

Food: Local and authentic cuisine

I didn’t have to go far to find traditional Bulgarian food. The menu at the Kosovo Houses tavern features many local specialties that you can only find in the Rhodope Mountains. From my room in The Hadjiyska House, it was just a 30-second walk across the yard to the tavern.

I started my first morning off with a traditional pancake served with a slab of feta cheese and seasonal berry jam. Breakfast is included in your stay, and the view from the porch is a relaxing way to start your day. The tavern is open throughout the day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Wild mushrooms foraged from the surrounding forests on display in the tavern.

Wild mushrooms foraged from the surrounding forests on display in the tavern.

And speaking of dinner, the first night I was there, I saw that Christo had been out foraging mushrooms, so I ordered a pork steak with wild mushroom sauce ($6). It tasted as good as it sounds. Other delicacies include a delicious pan-fried trout ($6) that is sourced from nearby local fisheries and classic Bulgarian grilled meats like spiced hamburgers (kyufte) and kebabs (kebapche) for $1 each.

If it’s hot like it was during my visit, order a cold bowl of tarator ($1.50), a refreshing soup that’s like liquid tzatziki with cucumbers, yogurt, and garlic. No matter what you order, start your meal with a classic shopska salad (a mix of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and peppers topped with feta cheese; $2.75), and save room for the “Light Cake” ($1.75), a delicious homemade dessert.

Pan fried trout from a local fishery is a specialty at Kosovo Houses.

Pan fried trout from a local fishery is a specialty at Kosovo Houses.

To drink, you can choose from a wide selection of local Bulgarian wines (with bottles starting at $7) or sip an ice cold Bulgarian beer like Kamenitza or Zagorka ($1.40). Or if you’re lucky, like during my second dinner, you can sip homemade rakia, the ouzo of Bulgaria. It was brought by a fellow Bulgarian guest whose father had recently made a fresh batch. Don’t worry if you’re not so lucky, you can still buy a glass of rakia from the bar for less than $1.

The view was just as nice as the company each evening on the tavern porch.

The view was just as nice as the company each evening on the tavern porch.

I quickly realized the tavern patio is a wonderful spot to spend an evening. Not only do you get to dine with an incredible view of the Rhodopean landscape, you will also meet a wide array of people. During my three-night stay, I met families taking a city break from Sofia, a Bulgarian/Canadian couple who are restoring an old house up the road, a photographer traveling around the country for a sightseeing guide, and two small walking groups — one from Ireland and the other from Belgium.

The lively discussion about everything from Bulgarian history to US politics flowed well into the night — especially after a few more glasses of rakia.

Enjoying dinner on the porch with other guests was a highlight of my stay.

Enjoying dinner on the porch with other guests was a highlight of my stay.

Activities: Hiking, history, and ancient architecture

When you’re not relaxing in your room or sipping a beer in the tavern, there are several activities and attractions that you can enjoy as a guest. Nearby, you can visit spectacular waterfalls on long hikes or visit famous sights like Bachkovo Monastery, the Wonderful Bridges, and Asen’s Fortress.

But you don’t have to leave the village to get a taste of the true beauty of the Rhodopes. I spent my first evening after dinner wandering around the stone paths of the village taking in the view and marveling at the peace and quiet of the place. I didn’t see a soul, except for one barking dog and a cute kitty cat.

Exploring the paths around Kosovo after dinner.

Exploring the paths around Kosovo after dinner.

On my first morning, I set out on a hike through the countryside. You can connect to a hiking trail right outside the main entrance of Kosovo Houses that takes you into the hills on a marked path. I wasn’t always able to keep track of the trail, but that just made the hike even more fun. After all, isn’t travel all about getting a little lost sometimes?

Getting there

From Sofia: You can fly into Sofia International Airport and rent a car for a 2-hour drive to Kosovo.

From Plovdiv: You can take a bus from Plovdiv to the nearby town of Narechenski Bani. From there, the Kosovo Houses will arrange to pick you up.

Booking a room

Kosovo Houses is open year round and it’s a popular destination for weekend getaways and family trips during the holidays. They just opened a new conference center, so sometimes the whole complex can be booked by an entire group. Weekdays are a lot slower in the high season, but it’s still best to plan ahead to secure a room.

Book a room at the Kosovo Houses

Editor’s Note: Accommodations and transportation were provided by the Kosovo Houses.

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Bulgaria: A place apart https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-a-place-apart.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-a-place-apart.html#comments Thu, 10 Jan 2013 07:35:08 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=25996 There is a lovely anecdote in the introduction to Annie Kay’s Bradt Guide to Bulgaria. It tells how God was dividing up the Earth between all the different peoples. True to form, the Bulgarians turned up late and there was nothing left. But the good Lord took pity on the Bulgarians and gave them a » Read more

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There is a lovely anecdote in the introduction to Annie Kay’s Bradt Guide to Bulgaria. It tells how God was dividing up the Earth between all the different peoples. True to form, the Bulgarians turned up late and there was nothing left. But the good Lord took pity on the Bulgarians and gave them a little piece of Paradise.

It is an interesting little tale of Bulgarian manners and the generosity of the Almighty. Though Bulgarians have not always responded to the gesture with any great religious devotion. But the story nicely highlights that punctuality is not a national virtue in this country in the southeastern Balkans. Bulgaria arrived late in the European Union (EU) — it joined, along with Romania, only in 2007.

Hallmarks of identity

On the face of it, Bulgaria really is a place apart. It is the only EU country that overwhelmingly favors the Cyrillic alphabet (not to be confused with the Greek script). That Cyrillic script may often be judged as a hallmark of Orthodoxy, but in fact many Orthodox churches in Bulgaria are markedly less crowded than in neighboring Romania (which, for all its Latin ways, is still one of the most devoutly Orthodox countries in Europe).

The Trigrad Gorge in southern Bulgaria. Photo: Countries in Color

Architectural heritage

The churches in Bulgaria may not be packed, but the country boasts some of the world’s most striking Orthodox heritage. The monasteries of Rila and Bachkovo, easily accessed in day trips from Sofia and Plovdiv respectively, are landmark examples of Orthodox architecture and design. The two are very different: Rila a riot of color, Bachkovo more muted yet a place of perfect harmony. Some of the interior murals in the ossuary church at Bachkovo are almost 1,000 years old.

If Orthodox style is not your thing, then Bulgaria also has some of the finest Islamic architecture in the Balkans. Take a look at the superb Tombul Dzhamiya complex in Shumen (in eastern Bulgaria) to discover how Islam nurtured an entire community, providing a focus for prayer and education. It houses a beautiful mosque with an adjacent school, library and sheltered courtyards for rest and relaxation.

Memorable landscapes

Bulgaria has its gritty cities which could do with a little love and care. It is struggling in the transition to a market economy. But it is has some memorably beautiful landscapes. We like the strange natural obelisks of Belogradchik and the gaunt beauty of the Pirin mountains. The Trigrad gorge is utterly memorable, as too are the coastal wetlands of Dobrudzha.

Catch any of these in the right light, and well might you feel that you have indeed stumbled on a little piece of Paradise.

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Bulgaria: Exploring Sofia’s museums https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-exploring-sofia%e2%80%99s-museums.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-exploring-sofia%e2%80%99s-museums.html#comments Wed, 02 Nov 2011 17:19:25 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=20614 Sofia boasts an oddball mix of museums and galleries. Probably not a lot of Cheapos would normally add the National Museum of Military History (92 Cherkovna str.) to their list of “must-see” sights in the Bulgarian capital. The Web site is not calculated to wow the casual surfer, but it does have some splendid promotional » Read more

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Sofia boasts an oddball mix of museums and galleries.

Probably not a lot of Cheapos would normally add the National Museum of Military History (92 Cherkovna str.) to their list of “must-see” sights in the Bulgarian capital. The Web site is not calculated to wow the casual surfer, but it does have some splendid promotional nonsense: “Everyone who has crossed the threshold of this museum enters the Bulgarian temple of immortality.”

So if you want immortality Bulgarian-style, you know where to head.

Mission impossible

It’s hard to say that things are much better at the National Polytechnic Museum, which has as its mission “to collect everything created by our ancestors in the past because in them are contained the signs of knowledge.”

Grand stuff, but that’s another cultural treasure that we’ve somehow missed. Next time we are in Sofia with a month to spare, perhaps.

Museum of Socialist Art

But don’t give up entirely on Sofia’s museums, for tucked away around the city are a few gems. The one that has hit the headlines this fall, and for all the right reasons, is the new Museum of Socialist Art (7 Luchezar Stanchev). It opened in September 2011 and is already attracting very positive reviews in Bulgaria and beyond.

The exhibits

The museum displays about 150 pieces that for the last two decades have been hidden away in vaults and cellars. The country’s transition to democracy has not always been easy, but the authorities have decided that now is the time to show how artists variously suffered and thrived in the socialist period.

Visitors to the museum, which is tucked away in a side street south-east of the city center, are confronted at the entrance with a classic stereotype: the massive five-pointed red star that for many years topped the Communist Party Headquarters in Sofia. There is also a 45-ton statue of Lenin in the museum’s sculpture garden.  Previously it stood in one of Sofia’s central squares.

Lots of splendid late 20th-century art, and more than merely the predictable socialist realism, help make this a top choice for culture vultures looking for an engaging diversion in Sofia.

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Bulgaria: Introducing Plovdiv’s Old Town https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-introducing-plovdivs-old-town.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-introducing-plovdivs-old-town.html#respond Wed, 16 May 2007 14:07:21 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-introducing-plovdivs-old-town.html Travelers to Bulgaria short on time will be pleased to know that Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second largest city, is often referred to concentrated in Plovdiv’s Old Town—can be seen in a single day. Built around three hills under Roman rule in the 1st century A.D., Old Plovdiv (known in Roman times as Trimontium) a very walkable » Read more

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Travelers to Bulgaria short on time will be pleased to know that Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second largest city, is often referred to concentrated in Plovdiv’s Old Town—can be seen in a single day.

Built around three hills under Roman rule in the 1st century A.D., Old Plovdiv (known in Roman times as Trimontium) a very walkable maze of tangled, cobbled streets lined with Bulgarian National Revival Era houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. Some of these houses have been renovated on the inside and are now galleries, restaurants, or museums showing the elaborate furnishings and ornamentation from that time period in post-Ottoman Bulgaria.

The Municipal Institute of Old Plovdiv (+359 032 633 380) is now offering a package for visitors to see Old Plovdiv’s Top 5 in one shot. For BGN9 (€4.50), one can gain admission to the Balabanova House, Hyndlian House, Nedkovich House, Zlatio Boyadzhiev Gallery, and the city’s pride and joy, its Ancient Roman Amphitheater, renovated as a modern-day venue for some of Plovdiv’s summer performances. All of these sites are open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., seven days a week, except for the Nedkovich Gallery, which is closed on the weekends.

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An authentic taste of Bulgaria: Lyutenitsa https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-lyutenitsa.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-lyutenitsa.html#respond Fri, 06 Apr 2007 15:04:41 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/bulgaria-lyutenitsa.html Photo by Sunnia Ko In Bulgaria, herbivores and carnivores alike can enjoy the delightful and addictive red pepper relish known as lyutenitsa. Made from red peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, sugar, and other spices, a little bit of lyutenitsa can add life to a dry piece of bread or any of the grilled meats so commonly » Read more

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Yum city

Photo by Sunnia Ko

In Bulgaria, herbivores and carnivores alike can enjoy the delightful and addictive red pepper relish known as lyutenitsa. Made from red peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, sugar, and other spices, a little bit of lyutenitsa can add life to a dry piece of bread or any of the grilled meats so commonly found in the Balkans.

You might have heard of lyutenitsa’s cousin—the ajvar sauce of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, a variety that is more pepper and less tomato. While you can find lyutenitsa (or ajvar, for that matter) at gourmet food shops elsewhere, once you’ve sampled some homemade lyutenitsa, we promise you’ll never go back to the store-bought variety.

Those traveling in Bulgaria should make some local friends and try to get invited over for a taste of lyutenitsa. Barring such an invitation, visitors can also visit an outdoor market and purchase the homemade variety as cooked up by an enterprising grandmother. One jar should be enough to last you weeks and you won’t have to pay more than BGN2 (€1).

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Wandering Cheapo: Localize Your Lingo https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/wandering-cheapo-localize-your-lingo.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/wandering-cheapo-localize-your-lingo.html#respond Thu, 05 Apr 2007 18:13:01 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/wandering-cheapo-localize-your-lingo.html The beauty of travel in the Balkans is the authentic experience it provides its visitors. Without much of the tourist infrastructure set up in other parts of Europe, an adventure is always just around the corner. Like when you want to inquire about transport options to Montenegro from Bulgaria and your handy Bulgarian phrase book » Read more

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The beauty of travel in the Balkans is the authentic experience it provides its visitors. Without much of the tourist infrastructure set up in other parts of Europe, an adventure is always just around the corner.

Like when you want to inquire about transport options to Montenegro from Bulgaria and your handy Bulgarian phrase book only gets you so far with the impatient cashier. After all, how are you supposed to know that locally, Montenegro is known as Crna Gora?

Never fear, it’s ‘ole Wikipedia to the rescue. Consulting this handy Wikipedia directory in advance might just save you the energy you need to climb Ano Poli when you travel from Sofia to Solun (Thessaloniki). We love that the Web site lists city names in most European languages and with a version that uses the Latin alphabet. This way, we can at least approximate the local pronunciation.

Oh, and if you’re in Budapest and want to meet me in Dubrovnik, ask for a flight to Raguza pronto.

Wandering Cheapo Sunnia Ko is a wanderer at heart and primarily supports this habit as a teacher at Plovdiv University in Bulgaria. She is currently on a cross-Balkan trek from Plovdiv to Sibenik, Croatia, where she hopes to find the Adriatic as splendid and turquoise as she remembers it to be.

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