Yet, it is precisely because of its unusual politics that Belarus is a top destination for European travellers anxious to sample somewhere a little more offbeat. The country is beginning to cut a dash in the ecotourism market (think farm stays, fishing and birdwatching), and its cities have a stunning range of monuments and museums.

Eastbound by train

We have been back in Belarus these past few days. The Moskva Express from Berlin is a train with many merits. The train’s nocturnal entry into Belarus at three in the morning is not one of them. We are not at our best at that hour. But the women of the border control were friendly and efficient. They even spoke some English. In truth, though, it really helps to have a few phrases of Russian when visiting Belarus, and it is essential to be able to read the Cyrillic alphabet – if only to decipher road names and street signs.

Ukrainian singer Sofia Rotaru performing at the gala concert that opened the 2009 Slavianski Bazaar in Vitebsk.

A city of art and culture

Our destination was Vitebsk, a city in the northeast corner of the country. Vitebsk deserves to be much better known. The city on the Western Dvina river is a gem. One-time Jewish city, birthplace of the painter Marc Chagall, and host of the annual Slavianski Bazaar – one of eastern Europe’s foremost festivals of music and culture. Dance troupes from across the Slavic world and beyond; music in a dozen genres; film, art and poetry too.

The two sides of Belarus

Belarus seems very foreign to many visitors that cross its borders. It is hard to get a handle on the place. The presidential website tells one tale. The human rights pressure group, Charter 97, recounts quite another story.

Travellers must make their own judgements. In Vitebsk, we found a people of unfailing courtesy. Hospitable, friendly, keen to party and very proud of their country.

Vitebsk at festival time is Belarus at its best – and for visitors from western Europe unbelievably good value. A half litre of beer for less than a dollar, a tram ride right across town for just a few cents and a main course in a good restaurant for less than five dollars. True EuroCheapo country.

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Europe made a good showing of course, with almost every country of the continent there to present its case for a share of the tourist dollar. Almost every. But not quite all.

Belarus was sadly unrepresented at this year’s ITB, its absence a quiet reminder that there is still one part of Europe fairly undiscovered by tourists. That will not last for long.

Late last year the first ever English language travel guide to Belarus was published by Bradt Travel Guides. And the current issue of hidden europe magazine has a feature on the small Belarusian town of Vetka, a place in the far southeast of the country that was terribly afflicted by radioactive fallout from Chernobyl in nearby Ukraine. That article was written by Nigel Roberts, the author of the new Bradt guide to the country.

Belarusian intrigue

Belarus is one Europe’s most intriguing countries, a survivor from the Soviet era where Lenin still stands on his plinth, the trains still run to time, and the streets are impeccably clean. We were impressed on our last visit. Towns like Grodna and Minsk will before long surely cut a dash in the European tourist market.

This summer budget carrier Wizzair is offering twice weekly flights to L’viv in Ukraine from both London and Dortmund. And Air Baltic, as well as serving Moldova and Ukraine from its Riga hub, will also fly into the Belarus capital Minsk.

For folk less inclined to hop on a plane, Belarus is well served by regular bus services from Vilnius and has excellent rail links with neighbouring Poland. The capital has a daily direct overnight train to Berlin.

If Belarus appeals, don’t forget that you need a visa. And go soon. We have a sense that it is a country on the brink of change.

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