Theadora Brack – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Paris Shopping Tips: How to save big on your shopping spree https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tips-for-saving-big-on-shopping.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-tips-for-saving-big-on-shopping.html#comments Mon, 15 Feb 2016 15:46:06 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=44358 Got passion for fashion? Cuckoo for a steal? Join the club! Nothing gives me more pleasure than finding quality garb at a discount price. For years, I’ve celebrated bargain shopping in the City of de-Light, like there’s no tomorrow. Based on my experience, here are a few tips on how to experience a guilt-free shopping » Read more

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Got passion for fashion? Cuckoo for a steal? Join the club! Nothing gives me more pleasure than finding quality garb at a discount price. For years, I’ve celebrated bargain shopping in the City of de-Light, like there’s no tomorrow.

Based on my experience, here are a few tips on how to experience a guilt-free shopping spree in Paris.

Now, let’s tally forth!


Paris shopping tips for budget travelers

1. Timing is key

Bargain hunter to the core? Try to schedule your trip during one of the citywide sales. The “Soldes d’hiver” launch in January and continue through February, while the “Soldes d’ete” are on tap to woo for six weeks in June and July.

Also, during the sales the prices start to drop and keep on dropping, so it’s a judgment call as to whether to pounce early and get the best selection, or wait it out a little and get the best deals. To be perfectly honest, I do both.

Be prepared

O, my deer! Do consider a basic shopping kit prior to your trip. A scene from a Bon Marché window. Photo: T. Brack

2. Be Prepared

Prior to setting out, consider your basic shopping kit: water bottle, moleskin (for blisters), a snack, Métro tickets, maps with targeted shops circled, and coins for WCs. And don’t forget a sturdy bag for your treasures. Most French grocery stores sell them at checkout for just a few cents. Lightweight and good-looking, they make perfect souvenirs, too.

My sister Wendy suggests also packing a camera for self-portraits, and snaps of celebrities like Lenny Kravitz. “Are you going our way?” we recently cried as he sped past us on his bike, near the Opéra. I don’t think he heard us because, well, he didn’t stop.

Regarding rooftop selfies: #Holdontotheledge

Plan of action

Visualization always helps me narrow my Great Hunt. A scene from a Printemps’ window. Photo: T. Brack

3. Plan of Action

Have a “quest” in mind, since visualization will help narrow your hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your desire.

What’s missing from your closet? Ballet slippers? Trench coat? Both are timeless French classics. Or perhaps you covet a Longchamp tote? Heck, we’ve been there. How about just a nice pair of shoes? Nobody’s going to judge you. It’s Paris, after all. So grab a pen and create a wish list.

Bus

Are you going our way? If so, take the bus, Gus! A scene from a Galeries Lafayette window. Photo: T. Brack

4. Getting around

Time is precious. However, it’s possible to visit two fashion-related exhibitions, three monuments, four department stores, and five prime (and affordable) shopping districts—all in one day. Lean in, because it’s true. Mine eyes have seen the glory!

What’s my secret? Get on the bus, Gus. For the price of a Métro ticket, you’ll not only cruise between the shopping districts with the greatest of ease, but also boast about your first scores of the day while the panorama of Paris rolls by en route to the next shopping district. You can use the same ticket for rides on several buses taken within 90 minutes of the first time you get it stamped.

To cite just one example, there are several personal favorite shopping meccas along the “95” bus route: Montmartre-Abbesses, Boulevard Haussmann, the Opéra district rue de Rivoli, and rue de Rennes. Talk about wheeling and dealing!

Favorite shopping neighborhoods

My sister Wendy documenting the Eiffel Tower and favorite sacred shopping grounds at Place de la Madeleine. Photo: T. Brack

5. Favorite Shopping ’Hoods

I’m no diva, but I do like to shop-hop without a lot of hassle. Focusing not only on the place but also on the journey—i.e., on the experience of the visit itself—I’m always on the prowl for historic shopping zones as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores may carry similar items.

Here are a few more favorite shopping havens. I call it my T-Zone:

  • Passage du Havre at Gare St-Lazare
  • Magasin Décathlon at Place de la Madeleine
  • Le Bon Marché at Métro Sevres-Babylone
  • the whole stretch of rue de Rennes, along with Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Champs-Élysées, rue de Rivoli
  • BHV at Hôtel de Ville.

Related: Our 10 favorite shopping districts in Paris

Vintage shopping

You’ll find a pocket of vintage clothing shops in the Marais. Photo: T. Brack

6. Paging Secondhand-Roses

Possess a mad penchant for collecting the garb of yesteryear? I’m with you, step by step. Paris still gives me a strong Proustian dose of solidarity with both past and present. Throughout Paris, you’ll find pockets of “friperies” (second-hand clothing shops) and “depôts-ventes” (consignment shops), but especially in Abbesses and the Marais.

Also, Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV) now boasts a new vintage clothing department. Here you’ll find retro garb, along with gently used bags, scarves, hats, and shoes. During one of my recent sleuthing trips, I spied more than a few big name Catherine Deneuve-worthy trench coats here—but without their usual exorbitant price tags.

Related: Know you secondhand shopping vocabulary in Paris

Flea Markets

Getting all Tête-à-Tête at the Porte de Vanves Flea Market. Photo: T. Brack

7. Flea Markets

Don’t leave Paris without at least one trip to the Porte de Vanves Flea Market. I’ve also scored big at the “brocantes” (antique/junk sales) and the vide-greniers (neighborhood-wide attic sales). Down through the years, I’ve found pink Valentino heels, black boots by Charles Jourdan, and a pointy brassiere by Maison Cadolle handmade in the 1940s. And none cost more than 30 euros.

Click here for the 2016 listing of brocantes, vide-greniers and marches aux puces.

Related: Shopping tips for flea market success in Paris

Bargain bins

Keep your peepers peeled for pickpockets whist browsing through the bargain bins. Photo: T. Brack

8. Bargain Bins

I often find my bargain bin bliss at the Sympa shops on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart . Located at the foot of Sacré Coeur in Montmartre, the stock is always in rotation. Here you’ll find Kookai, Jennyfer, and Naf-Naf, along with Best Mountain, Etam, and Undiz, but at a fraction of their original cost.

Don your elbow pads, eat a hearty breakfast, and keep your peepers peeled for pickpockets. Game on!

Grand Magasins

Galeries Lafayette’s Belle Époque rocking dome has never failed to bring me to tears. Photo: T. Brack

9. Grand Magasins

Paris boasts four famous old department stores. Bon Marché, Printemps, and Galeries Lafayette are conveniently located along the Métro 12 line, while Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV) holds court next to the Hôtel de Ville. Winding it back to the Belle Epoque, they’d lure the Cheapos of that day inside with displays of discounted silk remnants (a.k.a. “coupons”—literally “piece cut off,” from couper “o cut”).

Here’s how to get a few coupons of your own.

Tourist Discount Cards

Don’t discount the tourist discount cards because every little bit counts. Photo: T. Brack

Tourist Discount Cards at BHV and Galeries Lafayette

Both BHV and Galeries Lafayette offer tourist discount cards, which knock off 10% on selected items. To score G.L.’s “Exceptional 10% Discount” card, present your passport at the information desk on the store’s ground floor near the rue Mogador entrance.

You’ll find BHV’s “-10% offer*” discount voucher on their website. Print it before leaving home and then present it at the welcome desk, along with your passport. It’s just that easy!

House Brands

Department store house brands are often slashed by 20% to 50% during the big sales. A scene from Printemps. Photo: T. Brack

House Brands

Don’t miss the department store house brands. Affordable, well-made, and sporting souvenir-worthy labels, the collections feature bags, scarves, and sweaters. During the two annual sale periods (mentioned above), price tags are slashed by 20-50%.

Plus, Galeries Lafayette and BHV’s house brands are often eligible for the tourist discount. So do request your card. As my grandmother put it, “It all adds up.”

Rooftop views

We always feel snappy and happy like room without a roof up on the rooftop at Galeries Lafayette. Photo: T. Brack

Rooftop Views

For years now, I’ve carried on a torrid love affair with the rooftop café at Printemps. Here, the wine is affordable and the panoramic view of the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra Garnier, and Sacré Coeur is free. The roof of Galeries Lafayette also sweetly tempts with its faux green grass and funky red plastic chairs and sofas.

But now, there’s a new roof in town. Not to be outdone in the potted plant department, Le BHV Marais now has its very own rooftop terrace. “Perchoir Marais” is open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, after the store closes. It’s another win-sin.

As Oscar Wilde once quipped, “The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it.”

I completely agree. Happy Hunting!

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Wow Air: Our guide to flying the Cheapo skies https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/wow-airlines-our-guide-to-flying-the-cheapo-skies.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/wow-airlines-our-guide-to-flying-the-cheapo-skies.html#comments Wed, 09 Dec 2015 12:15:44 +0000 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=43763 Editor’s Note: Wow Air ceased operations in March of 2019. Thinking about taking a flight with Iceland’s Wow Air? Well then, halló from the other side! This year, I’ve taken multiple flights along the budget airline’s Paris (CDG) – Baltimore (BWI) route, always with a brief layover at the Keflavík International Airport (KEF). My airfare » Read more

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Editor’s Note: Wow Air ceased operations in March of 2019.


Thinking about taking a flight with Iceland’s Wow Air? Well then, halló from the other side!

This year, I’ve taken multiple flights along the budget airline’s Paris (CDG) – Baltimore (BWI) route, always with a brief layover at the Keflavík International Airport (KEF). My airfare has hovered around $400 to $600 round-trip, or roughly half the cost the other airlines are currently charging.

Like all global expeditions, there have been highs and lows, because, well, turbulence happens. Based on my experience, here are tips on how to make the most of a Wow flight.

Related: $99 to Europe? Yes, but… | 8 tips for finding cheap flights to Europe

On a Wow flight, only the airline’s sassy wit, the view, and the air you breathe are free. Photo by T. Brack

On a Wow flight, only the airline’s sassy wit, the view, and the air you breathe are free. Photo by T. Brack

Here’s the deal

Founded by Skúli Mogensen in 2011, Wow’s small fleet of planes cruises between Europe and North America (Baltimore, Boston, Montreal and Toronto). In 2016, Wow will begin to offer flights from San Francisco and Los Angeles, too. Fees typically start at $300 if you chart your plans (and book your seats) far enough in advance.

The planes are purple. The carpeting is purple. The flight attendants sport “Mad Men”-era uniforms in purple. Cheeky wordplay also reigns here, from the “Vomit-Meter” motion sickness bags and the “Rolling, Rolling, Rolling” food cart, to the “Honk if you’re hungry” service buzzer, and the “Sip it, Sip it good!” beverage cups.

Cheeky wordplay always flies on Wow. Photo by T. Brack

Cheeky wordplay always flies on Wow. Photo by T. Brack

That said…

On a Wow flight, only the airline’s sassy wit, the view, and the air you breathe are free. Food, luggage, and extra legroom are additional. The list of additional charges includes the H2O, BTW, and I am not JKG.

Divas need not fly here. Still, even with the added charges, it’s a lot cheaper than any other flight deals out there.

Related: Creative and cheap ways to fly to Europe

On the flip side…

Just because it’s a low cost carrier doesn’t mean you have to lower expectations (said not in a Polly Anna sort of way!). Instead, change your approach. Try to leave behind your preconceptions of what makes a great flight great. In this new world of bare-bones budget flights, you are actually the master of your Airbus destiny.

Cheapo tip: Go with the flow, and embrace the opportunity to customize your flight.

  • Mad shopper? Pay for a larger luggage allowance.
  • Long gams? Buy extra legroom.
  • Fancy brews or wines from afar? Supplement the snacks you brought from home with a glass of the house white. I did! Rocking a cat on its label, I couldn’t resist. Iceland’s own Gulle beer is often discounted, the perfect gift for one of your row mates.

As Bob Dylan once strummed, “For the times, they are a-changing.”

After selecting travel dates, you’ll be asked to purchase a seat. (Photo by T. Brack)

After selecting travel dates, you’ll be asked to purchase a seat. (Photo by T. Brack)

Booking your flight

After selecting travel dates, you’ll be asked to purchase a seat. Depending on the size of the plane, here’s the lay of the land:

Upper right section: XXL (35 to 40 inches of legroom), $57 to $67
Upper left section: XL (32 inches), $38 to $48
Middle section: (30 to 31 inches), $10 to $15
Back of the plane: (30 to 31 inches), $6

Tip: Like the theater, everyone has a sweet spot. I recommend following designer Elsa Schiaparelli’s mantra on this one: “Buy only the best or the cheapest.” I’d either splurge on a roomy XXL for $67, or book one in the back for a lean $6. Doing the math, it doesn’t make sense to pay extra for an upper left XL seat unless you’re going after location.

Here’s something else to consider: Restrooms. They’re located in the front and the back of the plane. So if you’re the kind that needs to skip to the loo often, pick your seat accordingly. Or if you’re fond of stretching the legs during the flight, perhaps a seat in the middle has your name on it.

You’re permitted one free carry-on item up to 11 pounds—and this includes your personal item. Image: Courtesy Wow Airlines

You’re permitted one free carry-on item up to 11 pounds—and this includes your personal item. Image: Courtesy Wow Airlines

Luggage

You’re permitted one free carry-on item up to 11 pounds—and this includes your personal item (i.e., stylish handbag or backpack).

But don’t panic: You have options. For an additional $48, it’s possible to add 15 more pounds to your carry-on bag. Or do like I do: just pay the piper, and check one bag (maximum weight of 44 pounds) for $67.

Tip: Skirting around Wow’s one free little carry-on bag policy, I also wear a wafer-thin nylon cross-body bag in black, and because it matches my customary manteau noir, it rarely raises an eyebrow or a scale, for that matter.

Related: A Guide to airline baggage fees for US carriers to Europe

Don’t forget to pack a small blanket or wearing a large sweater and an eye mask. (Image by T. Brack’s archives, 1953)

Don’t forget to pack a small blanket or wearing a large sweater and an eye mask. (Image by T. Brack’s archives, 1953)

Packing List

I recommend packing a small blanket (or wearing a large sweater) and an eye mask because Wow keeps the lights on throughout the entire flight.

Reading material should also be on your list, because Wow offers no in-flight entertainment, and they’ve stopping renting iPads. There are outlets for recharging your own electronic devices, but they’re not always in working order, but books and magazines are the good old green alternative.

Related: Packing for a two-week trip to Europe

Tip: On a recent flight I devoured Amy Poehler’s “Yes, Amy”. Heads-up: The book weighs a whopping 1.8 pounds, so consider purchasing it after checking in, in case they decide to weigh your carry-on. Or else pack Tina Fey’s relatively slim 12.8 ounce “Bossy Pants”. Time flew during both reads.

If you’re hungry, don’t hesitate to honk at anytime during the flight. (Image: Courtesy Wow Airlines)

If you’re hungry, don’t hesitate to honk at anytime during the flight. (Image: Courtesy Wow Airlines)

The Flight

“Bon Appétit!” is what I always say whenever I hear the rumble of the meal cart in the distance, shortly after takeoff. Making no bones about it, dining is one of my favorite flight rituals. On Wow, there’s a meal truck, but everything comes at a price. Coffee, tea and chips cost about $2.65; juice, soda, candy bars, and Skyr cost $2.27; beer and soup cost about $5.30; and sandwiches and wine cost $7.57.

Tip: I usually pack beaucoup bags of trail mix in my pockets, and then score some soda pops at the airport. I’ve splurged on the wine, the soup, and the coffee, of course. Because fueled with caffeine is how I like to roll upon arrival.

Waiting for takeoff at the Keflavík International Airport (Photo by T. Brack)

Waiting for takeoff at the Keflavík International Airport (Photo by T. Brack)

The layover

Wow now prints out tickets for both legs of your trip at the start of your journey, so the layover at the Keflavík International Airport is easier and breezier. Need more reading material? Make a beeline to the Penninn Eymundsson bookshop, not far from the Wow gates. The other shops at KEF airport don’t stock books and magazines.

However, be quick on your feet because the layover is only an hour and a half, even if “Iceland’s most punctual airline” occasionally runs a bit behind schedule. Granted, I haven’t missed any of my connections yet, but it’s something to keep in mind if you’re tacking on another flight at the end of your trip.

Lastly, keep your eyes peeled for Wow’s over-sized inflight magazine. Thanks to one fascinating article, I now no longer have to ponder how the flight attendants manage to fix their flawless topknots prior to a 4 a.m. flight. They don’t wake up that way, but can whip up their signature dos in a matter of seconds. Impressive!

Questions about Wow?

Feel free to ask away below. And if you have any more tips on how to make the most of a Wow flight, do spill.

Bon Voyage!

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First time in Paris? 8 activities not to miss https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-8-activities-that-should-be-on-your-bucket-list.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-8-activities-that-should-be-on-your-bucket-list.html#comments Wed, 30 May 2012 15:25:08 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=23705 By Theadora Brack in Paris— Rumor has it you’re planning a trip to Paris! So bless your soul and grab my hand. I have a few recommendations for a dreamy Parisian bucket list, big or tall. Here is where I find my inspiration! 1. Book it! While kicking down the cobblestones, why not pick up » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Rumor has it you’re planning a trip to Paris! So bless your soul and grab my hand. I have a few recommendations for a dreamy Parisian bucket list, big or tall. Here is where I find my inspiration!

Hang out at Shakespeare and Company.

1. Book it!

While kicking down the cobblestones, why not pick up a Paris-related book or novella? Check out Shakespeare & Co. at 37 rue Bûcherie (Metro: Saint-Michel). Located near Notre Dame, it is the most enchanting bookshop in the city!

Through the hard times and the good, I also praise the San Francisco Bookshop at 17 Rue Monsieur le Prince (Metro: Odéon). Here is where I recently found a well-loved copy of “A Literate Passion: Letters of Anaïs Nin & Henry Miller”. Talk about the ultimate starry-eyed read!

Henry wrote: “I have not dared until now to say what I think. But I am plunging—you have opened the void for me—there is no holding back. I am in a fever.” Oh, sigh!

(Read more about our favorite bookstores in Paris.)

Get cheesy at the fromagerie.

2. Eat, Drink and be Merry

And speaking of Henry’s valentine, he also penned, “The aim of life is to live, and to live means to be aware: joyously, drunkenly, serenely, divinely aware!”

Here’s the squeal! Paris is made up of beaucoup boulangeries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, and glaciers. Clipping The Left Banke, don’t walk away, Renée—spurge away! Also, ask for tidbit samples and recommendations. Cheapos, they know.

My gastronomical checklist:

Don’t leave the city without trying a crème brûlé, a meringue, and at least one macaron, along with a baguette, a pain au chocolat, and a selection of young fromage (difficult to find outside of France). Let’s not forget the wine and the crêpes! “Je voudrais une crêpe fromage-jambon, s’il vous plaît,” is what I always say!

(Read more about our favorite cafes and bakeries in Paris.)

3. Big City, Bright Lights

I also advocate sipping a round on a café terrace. Winter, spring, summer and fall, you won’t forget it! For pumped-up kicks, give Suze a shot! A gentian-based apéritif, this old-school bar favorite is typically served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice. Challenge your mates to describe its strange and peculiar flavor!

Back in the day, Picasso quipped, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Yes, the iconic bottle played muse to Picasso back in 1912. Hands-down, his super-cube collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze” always sets my rain on fire!

(Read more about drinks to try at any cafe in Paris.)

Hanging out in the Jardin du Luxembourg

4. Parks and Rec

After you’ve picked up your reads and nibbles, head to one of my favorite parks: Jardin du Luxembourg (Metro: Notre-Dame des Champs, Rennes or Vavin), Jardin des Tuileries (Metro: Tuileries, Concorde, Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre, Pyramides) and the Jardin du Palais Royal (Metro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre).

WWHD? (What would Hem do?)

Hemingway would most likely mosey on over to the Square du Vert-Galant (Metro: Pont Neuf, Cité or Saint-Michel), and chill with wine, books, and sausages while watching the fishermen. “They always caught some fish,” he wrote, “They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all.”

(Read in detail about our favorite parks in Paris.)

Lovely, moody Pere Lachaise.

Last stop

Cemeteries are also perfect spots for a little peace, love and understanding. I often curl up with Oscar Wilde at the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise. Like a new pair of cat eyeglasses, the calm terrain not only changes perception, but also attitude. The surrounding beauty both soothes and re-energizes my spirits every time.

Here you’ll also find comfort with Chopin, Modigliani, Proust, Edith Piaf and Jim Morrison. It’s free, and the perfect Paris experience, rain or shine. Come with a journal or sketchbook in hand. In the words of the dashing Wilde, “I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train.” Oh, yes.

5. Taxi!

After nightfall, treat yourself to a cab ride in the City of Light. This is when the city truly twinkles. If you’re not already a wee intoxicated, you soon will be. I guarantee it.

To catch a ride, keep your eyes peeled for a cabstand. You could also hoof around the city after sundown. In Paris I always feel safe as houses, even when I roll solo.

6. Eiffel Tower

Like the moon and stars, the Eiffel Tower is a free show from almost anywhere in town, but better yet go there! Add it to your list. Just do it. Looking for a picture-perfect shot? Shoot up from below, center stage. Here the tower’s iron lattice resembles classic French black lace knickers. Oh, la, la!

I also highly recommend scoring an Eiffel Tower key chain at one of the souvenir shops in Montmartre. For the true love of corn, you’ll thank me one day in the near future. I have no doubts and no shortage of miniature replicas in my very own big box of life’s mementos. Just saying.

View from the rooftop.

7. Up on the roof

Right smack dab in the middle of town, I have a pet rooftop haven. Galeries Lafayette has never let me down! Up here, you’ll spy the Opéra Garnier, the Tour Eiffel, and Sacré Coeur. It’s another perfect spot to recharge your spirit, soul, and soles with sunsets and to-the-horizon boulevards and buildings of Haussmannian architecture!

(Read more about visiting the rooftop of Galeries Lafayette and tips for visiting the Sacre Coeur.)

8. Quill Power

Go vintage! Buy your postcards at the flea market! In the world of texts and emoticons, a little handwriting will feel good to the hand, spirit, cat sitter or paramour! Start the search for “cartes postale ancienne” at either the Porte de Vanves Flea Market or Clignancourt Flea Market at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès).

(Read our tips for shopping at flea markets in Paris.)

Signing off with yet another passage by Hemingway, Cheapos, “There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.”

Bon Voyage! Carpe diem, Cheapos! Now start planning that trip!

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Paris: Our 10 favorite shopping districts https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-our-10-favorite-shopping-districts.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-our-10-favorite-shopping-districts.html#respond Mon, 14 May 2012 17:36:41 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=23521 Tripping to Paris? Do you plan to shop? Well then, look and listen! Throughout Paris, there are shopping zones where you can buy anything, as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores carry similar items. Shopping fanatics, unite. Here’s a mini-guide. So dust off the printer! But first, a few tips: 1. In France, » Read more

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Tripping to Paris? Do you plan to shop? Well then, look and listen! Throughout Paris, there are shopping zones where you can buy anything, as well as scattered districts where clusters of stores carry similar items. Shopping fanatics, unite. Here’s a mini-guide. So dust off the printer!

But first, a few tips:

1. In France, most ATM machine “keys” do not include letters, just numbers. So what to do if you’ve memorized your password as “Rosebud” and not as “9693292”? Get thee quickly to a payphone booth! Here the keys include both numbers and letters. Voilà, Super Man! This little tip saves the day every time. (More advice about ATMs in Europe.)

2. Looking for discounts? Shop during the two annual Big Sale (“Solde”) periods in either January or June. This year’s summer sales launch on Wednesday, June 27, 2012.

3. Got to shop ’til you drop on a Sunday? I recommend hoofing it to either Abbesses or the Marais, where most stores are open seven days a week. Here you’ll also find beaucoup bars, cafés and pâtisseries going full blast!

4. Check out our full list of tips to save big on shopping Paris — everything you need to know for a perfect shopping spree!

Now on to the list:

Hoof it to the Porte de Vanves flea market!

Flea Markets

Bitten by the Flea? Visit the Marché aux puces de la Porte de Vanves (14th arrondissement, Métro Porte de Vanves) or the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (18th arrondissement, Métro: Porte de Clignancourt).

Tip! The 95-bus line connects both “puces.” See this Web site for a handy 2012 listing of Paris Fleas, brocantes and vide-greniers.

Trendy (and affordable) Labels

Looking to shake up your wardrobe with a little Zara, Etam or Naf-Naf? Here’s where I go-go for my Chains of Love: Boulevard Haussmann, rue de Rennes, and rue du Commerce, along with rue de Rivoli and Champs-Elysées.

During the Big Sales, the Zara at 40 rue de Rennes usually serves as one of “last stops” for the chain’s leftover clothing.

Bargain Bins

I often find my bargain bin bliss at the Sympa shops on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart (Métro Abbesses or Anvers). Located at the foot of Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre, the stock is always cha-cha-changing. Expect Best Mountain, Etam, Naf-Naf, Sinéquanone, and Undiz but at a fraction of their original cost.

Don your elbow pads and eat a healthy breakfast. Game on! (Read more about Sympa shops in Paris.)

Vintage Clothing

Throughout in Paris, you’ll find “friperies” (secondhand clothing shops) and “depôts-ventes” (consignment shops). I’d either book it to Abbesses (Métro Abbesses, 18th arrondissement) or the Marais (Métro Saint-Paul, 4th arrondissement).

Both have deep pockets of vintage clothing shops. Le Caverne à Fripes at 25 rue Houdon in Abbesses or FREE’P’STAR at 61 rue de la Verrerie in the Marais are peek-a-boo-worthy! (Read more about vintage clothing shops in Paris.)

Funky designer shops and studios

Rocking a fairy tale vibe, the skinny rue d’Orsel (Métro Abbesses or Anvers) is lined with a row of clothing shops and studios. Their kitschy, candied-colored vitrines always stop me in my tracks. Located in the textile district, the artists here play with the full spectrum of fabrics like there’s no tomorrow.

Check out: Zélia’s Sur la Terre Comme au Ciel, Marie’s Le Boudoir de Marie, and Kitty’s Killy Grind.

Fabric

At the foot of Sacré Coeur in Montmartre (Métro Abbesses or Anvers) is where I hunt for fabric and notions. I’d kick off the quest on Rue d’Orsel (north of Metro Anvers in the 18th). Flaunting four floors of textiles, notions and baubles, both the Marché Saint Pierre on 2 rue Charles Nodier, and the Tissus Reine at 5 Place Saint-Pierre (with its fifty miniature mannequins!) are definitely worth a visit. Yes, you’ve got the notion!

Looking for African Megawax cloth? Trek it to the nearby Barbès neighborhood. Tip! Most of the fabric is precut at six meters (about 18 feet, enough for two shirts or dresses). Look for the €10 piles of cloth!

Kitchenware

WWJCD? (What would Julia Child do?) That joke never gets old! For gastromical sakes, she’d hunt the aisles of kitchen-equipment specialist E. Dehillerin! “Thunderstruck!” was her description of the heated encounter she first had there. Located at 18 Rue Coquillière (Métro: Les Halles), the centuries-old shop’s shine has not dulled the least bit.

Also, check out Julia’s photograph behind the cash register!

Tableware

When it comes to dinner parties, presentation is everything! So channel your inner Martha Stewart, and roll on over to shops along rue de Paradis (south of Métro Poissoniere, 10th arrondissement). There’s also a row of funky tableware shops along rue de Rennes (Métro: Rennes, 6th arrondissement). For the love of whimsy, all three shops are worth a pop-by: La Vaissellerie (85), Culinarion (99), and Plastiques (103). (Read more on buying kitchenware in Paris.)

Vintage Postcards

One of my favorite hunting grounds for “cartes postale ancienne” (known as CPA in the trade) is at Caveyron Devey, located at stall number 7 and 8 in the Passage Lecuyer (off Rue Jules Vallès) in the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt). Stocked with postcards organized by category or genre, if you’re looking for a specific category, don’t be afraid to ask! The Porte de Vanves Flea also carries them, along with vintage magazines.

Books

Also at the Clignancourt Flea, you’ll find one of my favorite bookshops. La librairie de l’Avenue is a large but still intimate bookshop, stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. After hunting at the Porte de Vanves Flea, book it to the book and prints flea market. Located at intersection of Rue Brancion and Rue Fizeau in the 15th arrondissement, the market is open Saturdays and Sundays.

Your favorite shopping spots?

Cheapos, do you have a favorite shopping district in Paris? Do spill!

Also in our guide: If you’re planning your Paris vacation and need suggestions for great affordable hotels, check out our reviews of budget hotels in Paris. All of our picks have been visited, inspected and approved by a EuroCheapo editor. Read more in our Paris guide and grab some helpful tips on where to stay during your visit.

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Arriving in Paris: Getting to your hotel, situated and settled https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/arriving-in-paris-getting-to-your-hotel-situated-and-settled.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/arriving-in-paris-getting-to-your-hotel-situated-and-settled.html#comments Mon, 30 Apr 2012 16:24:10 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=23306 It’s almost summertime, and soon the touring and discount shopping in Paris will be easy. Feeling the love, rhythm, and a bright new mood, here are few tips to help you ease into your first day in the city. I will take you there! Related: How to spend your first day in Paris 1. To » Read more

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It’s almost summertime, and soon the touring and discount shopping in Paris will be easy. Feeling the love, rhythm, and a bright new mood, here are few tips to help you ease into your first day in the city. I will take you there!

Related: How to spend your first day in Paris

Lizza will get you to your hotel affordably.

1. To cab or not to cab?

That’s always the question upon arrival. But if steps are an issue or you’re toting heavy luggage, for heaven’s sake, take a cab. No one’s gonna judge you. Heck, we’ve all been there. I’m no diva, but I’ve always thought Gare du Nord had one too many corridors, and two too many sets of stairs to count. So there, I’ve said it. I sometimes cab it myself.

My own Cheapo solution is to contact Lizza (also a concert cellist!) at contact@art-trans-voyage.com. With advance bookings, they’ll greet you at the airport with a spiffy sign in hand. The flat rate will be pre-determined during booking, and is based on your destination in the city, regardless of traffic jams. Who could ask for anything more?

Tip! Book in advance and tell her you’re a Cheapo. For the very lowest rate (especially if your flight is an early one), say you are willing to wait for a late or group pick-up at the airport café, just outside the baggage area. I do this often, and I’ve never had to wait more than one hour. After the long flight, I actually find the lull relaxing, and besides, check-in for hotels in Paris is usually in the afternoon. Plus, you can’t beat the sunrise people-watching action.

If you’re up for public transportation, check out our guide to getting in from the airport by bus and train.

Pick up a Pariscope at any magazine kiosk, like this one near the Louvre.

2. Reading Material

While waiting for a taxi or before jumping on the RER train, pick up some reading material at Les boutiques Aéroports de Paris. You can’t miss their bright red signs. Getting you coming and going, there’s usually one located just outside of baggage.

I’d kick off my spending spree with a copy of L’Officiel des Spectacles or Pariscope. Both cover the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. Then while in transit, start making plans. Costing about fifty cents a pop, it’s your new BFF! (By the way, the rags can also be found at any newsstand or kiosk in Paris.)

Let’s not forget to pick up a few fashion magazines. It’s a great way to find out what’s happening on the streets of Paris before actually hitting the cobblestones.

Here’s another squeal! Often magazines like Be, Elle, Marie Claire, and Vogue include a free gift with purchase. I recently scored a scarf and cosmetics, along with a chic Édition Limitée Nuisette (nightie) by Princesse Tam Tam in a drop dead burgundy. Talk about a win-sin!

What to do? What to do? Follow my lead. In Paris, most super market stores are not one-stop shopping havens. Monoprix is the exception. Here’s the breakdown.

Head to your neighborhood Pharmacie.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies in Paris carry a wide array of plant-based soaps, shampoos, lotions, and conditioners, along with cosmetics, contact solution, eye-drops, and contact lens cases. They also stock aspirine and Ibuprofène. When making a purchase, ask for the marque générique because it’s usually half the cost of the name brands.

How to find one? Pharmacies are easily recognizable by their flashing green cross signs, dressed in neon and cool LED. In each neighborhood at least one remains open through the night (and any closed pharmacy will post a sign directing you to the nearest one that’s open). French pharmacists are licensed to diagnose and treat minor illnesses without doctors’ prescriptions. Look for the “conseils pharmaciens” sign outside on the shop’s window.

Grocery stores

At grocery stores in Paris, you’ll find shampoo, soap, deodorant, and cosmetics, along with toothpaste and mod-looking toothbrushes (another perfect souvenir!).

Tip: Grocery stores in Paris, like Monoprix, Franprix, and Carrefour now have smaller “Mini Me” boutiques scattered throughout the city. It’s all about streamlining!

dailymonop’ sells toiletries, as well as basic grocery items.

Prior to your trip, I recommend exploring your Paris ’hood via Google Earth, and jotting down addresses of nearby pharmacies and grocery stores. Yes, this message has been approved by the Girl Scouts du Monde.

4. Batteries Chargers and Memory Chips

Forget your battery charger or need a new memory chip? It happens. Hotfoot it to Fnac (pronounced “fuh-NACK”), the largest French entertainment retail chain.

The two biggest stores are at rue de Rennes and Les Halles. (The Saint-Lazare shop is my favorite because it’s smaller.) The camera equipment is usually located on the second floor, close to the cashier booths. Check out their good-looking shopping bag. It’ll make your friends back home green with jealousy.

Tip! Fnac also discounts its inventory of books. This includes the latest catalogs from current blockbuster exhibitions in Paris. With everything from laptops and DVDs to French comic books and concert tickets, in the entertainment realm, it’s one-stop shopping. You can also pick up museum admission tickets here.

Your tips for getting situated in Paris

Cheapos, Bon Voyage! And do let us know if you have a tip for your own first day in Paris. Curious trekkers want to know.

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Paris parks: Our 7 favorite green spaces https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-our-7-favorite-parks-in-paris-with-photos.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-our-7-favorite-parks-in-paris-with-photos.html#comments Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:01:59 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=23100 Visiting Paris soon? If so, don’t forget to stop and smell the roses! Throughout the city, you’ll find parks, squares and gardens. While on holiday, time is precious. I hear you! So to help out, I’ve created a list of favorite parks, along with the monuments, museums and shopping districts that surround them. Day tripping just » Read more

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Visiting Paris soon? If so, don’t forget to stop and smell the roses! Throughout the city, you’ll find parks, squares and gardens. While on holiday, time is precious. I hear you! So to help out, I’ve created a list of favorite parks, along with the monuments, museums and shopping districts that surround them. Day tripping just got easier!

Oh, so hub-able

While touring, parks are the perfect spots for resting and picnicking. Tip! Grocery stores in Paris like Monoprix, Franprix, and Carrefour now have smaller “Mini Me” boutiques scattered throughout Paris. With ease, you’ll be able to stock up on fresh salads, sandwiches, and cold beverages. There’s also fromageries and patisseries! Bon Appétit.

Relaxing at the Jardin du Luxembourg.

1. Jardin du Luxembourg
6th arrondissement (Metro: Notre-Dame des Champs, Rennes or Vavin)

Fashioned by Queen Marie de Médici and garden guru Boyeau de La Bareaudière with a Florentine twist during the 17th century, it’s my favorite park.

Gossip! In the years before Hemingway could afford to shoot lions in Africa, he hunted urban birdlife here. Back in his salad days, Luxembourg was known for its voluptuous pigeons! “We got a little tired of pigeon that winter but they filled many a void,” Hem wrote.

Before or after your own moveable feast in the park, I recommend visiting the Musée du Luxembourg, the Église Saint-Sulpice, or the Musée de Cluny. The Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Panthéon are also fine options. Let’s not forget to mention the kitschy Latin Quarter. Don’t hate me because I think this touristic hotspot is beautiful!

Table service in the Tuileries.

2. Jardin des Tuileries
1st arrondissement (Metro: Tuileries, Concorde, Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre, Pyramides?)

And speaking of royal creations, here’s another one! Created by Catherine de Médici (with a slight Italian flair) in the 16th century, the Jardin de Tuileries was given a redo by landscape architect André Le Nôtre during the Sun King’s reign. After the Big Wigs’ big move to Versailles, it became one of the first public parks.

Ready to stroll? Look for the Musée du Louvre, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and the Musée des Arts de la Mode, along with the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and the Place de la Concorde.

Dig the Musée d’Orsay? Cross the river Seine at Pont Royal or Pont de Solférino. Want more? The Petit Palais and the Grand Palais are also in walking distance.

Sit like a king in the Jardin du Palais Royal

3. Jardin du Palais Royal
1st arrondissement (Metro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre)

Here you’ll find beaucoup de benches, a fountain and a music box shop! Back in the day, writer Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette held court here. Some claim to still hear the tapping of her typewriter keys. Keep your little eye peeled for the historic plaque marking where she lived.

Nearby, you’ll find the Musée du Louvre, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and the Musée des Arts de la Mode, along with Place de la Concorde, the Musée d’Orsay, and the Palais Royal Musée. Shopping enthusiasts, the hustling, bustling Châtelet shopping district is located just a few blocks away.

4. Jardin des Plantes
5th arrondissement (Metro Monge, Jussieu or Gare d’Austerlitz)

I’ve spent entire days here. Created in the 17th century as a medicinal herb garden for the King Louis XIII, it’s chockfull of flowers, statues and ancient trees. Also in the area, you’ll be able to explore the Arènes de Lutèce, the Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle, and the Institut du Monde Arabe, along with the Mosquée de Paris.

Tip! Check out its gift shop and restaurant. Their couscous is among the best in the city!

Clown murals and more at the Square de la Trinité.

5. Square de la Trinité
9th arrondissement (Metro: Saint-Trinité)

Located in the quaint “Nouvelle Athènes” area, the square is not to be missed! Its clown murals never failed to make me smile! Here in the historic neighborhood, you’ll also find the Musée Gustave Moreau (the artist’s studio and house), along with the Musée de la Vie Romantique.

Formerly the home of painter Ary Scheffer, it now features works from the Romantic Movement in art and literature. Yes, here is where George Sand, Chopin, Delacroix, Liszt, and Rossini would gather and gab. Interested in the Moulin Rouge or the Musée de l’Erotisme? Hotfoot it directly uphill!

“Je t’aime” so many things at the Square Jehan-Rictus.

6. Square Jehan-Rictus
18th arrondissement (Metro: Abbesses)

Nestled in Abbesses, you’ll find the intimate square, along with its “J’taime Wall.” Created by Frederic Baron and Claire Kito, the phrase “I Love You” in 250 languages is inscribed on glazed blue tiles.

While touring Abbesses and the rest of Montmartre, do stop by the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dali, the Musée de Montmartre and Sacré Coeur. Tip! In Abbesses, the shops are always open on Sundays.

7. Square du Vert-Galant
1st arrondissement (Metro: Pont Neuf, Cité or Saint-Michel)

The Square du Vert-Galant, a centuries-old romantic hotspot.

Let’s now stroll to another favorite centuries-old romantic hotspot, le Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of the Île de la Cité. How did the park get its name? Parisians gave the little tear-drop-shaped park the flamboyant King Henri IV’s nickname, “Vert-Galant,” or “Gay Blade,” since he was larger than life, compassionate, and wildly loved!

Just beyond the le Square du Vert-Galant, you’ll find the downstream tip of the Île de la Cité. Pick a spot on the stone ledge and then settle yourself down for some smooth bateaux-cruise watching. What else can be spotted? Notre Dame and the Musée du Louvre. Feel up for a stroll? The Centre Georges Pompidou, the Hotel de Ville, and the Musée de Cluny are also worth the trek!

Where do you park it?

Do you have a favorite park in Paris? Do tell us in our comments section! Also check out our post on hidden parks in Paris.

Also in our guide: If you’re planning an upcoming trip to Paris and looking for an affordable hotel, do swing by to our Paris guide to read our expert reviews of budget hotels in Paris. Each of them has been visited, inspected and approved by one of our editors.

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Paris: Shopping for vintage kitchenware at the Porte de Vanves flea market https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-shopping-for-vintage-kitchenware-at-the-porte-de-vanves-flea-market.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-shopping-for-vintage-kitchenware-at-the-porte-de-vanves-flea-market.html#respond Mon, 02 Apr 2012 15:01:10 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=22901 By Theadora Brack in Paris— Cuckoo for classic French dishes, pots and pans? Join the club! I, too, possess a mad penchant for collecting kitchenware from yesterday. Fret not, I’m okay! You’re okay! So where to find the beauties in Paris? I recommend trekking it to the Porte de Vanves flea market. I’ve been shopping » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Cuckoo for classic French dishes, pots and pans? Join the club! I, too, possess a mad penchant for collecting kitchenware from yesterday. Fret not, I’m okay! You’re okay!

So where to find the beauties in Paris? I recommend trekking it to the Porte de Vanves flea market. I’ve been shopping here for over a decade because the wares are eclectic and the prices are affordable. Tip! Create a shopping wish list. Visualization will help you narrow your hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your cuisine dreams!

Setting the bar high.

Flashback!

Old French kitchenware has always been souvenir-worthy. In fact, an antique mortar and pestle was one of Julia Child’s first flea market purchases after she moved to Paris.

“The mortar was made of dark-gray marble, and was about the size and weight of a baptismal font,” she wrote. “One look at it, and I knew there was no question: I just had to have that set.” That very mortar and pestle, along with other kitchenware she brought back from France is now on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.

1. Vintage barware

Prepared to be bug-eyed at the market’s groovy mix of ice buckets, ashtrays, glasses, and bottle openers, all sporting logos of old-fashioned French bar favorites like Suze, Ricard, Pastis 51, and Picon.

Un peu de café?

Looking for something specific? I’d kick off the quest with dealers Danielle and Pierre Aurillon. They’re personable, and have been with the market for decades. Their booth is located just across from the soccer field. While browsing through their funky array of barware, don’t overlook the absinthe spoons, the tastevins (wine taster’s cups, recognizable by the bump in the middle) or the glazed wine pitchers.

2. Pots and Pans

Here at the flea market you’ll find a slew of Julia Child’s favorite (and highly coveted) Le Creuset cookware but drastically discounted compared to what it costs outside of France. Made to last forever, it hardly matters if it’s “used.” I’ve been able to find cast iron ovens, au gratin pans and chef skillets, along with enameled-iron sauce and sauté pans—all vintage and well loved.

Copper equipment will also seduce you. Feeling all Proustian, I’ve also picked up madeleine pans with their telltale shell-shaped molds. Is there such a thing as too many? Not in my book, and not in Proust’s either, apparently.

Le Creuset alert!

3. One dish, two dish

As you make your way through the flea market, keep your eyes peeled for classic crème brûlée ramekins, café au lait bowls, soup tureens (with handles) and escargot tongs, along with the little dimpled metal pans you cook the snails in. Quiche and soufflé dishes also rise to the top here. Don’t let minor chips and scratches keep you at bay. I firmly believe that yesteryear’s wear’n’tear adds value. “Everything has a history,” as Julia would say.

Currently I’m on the hunt for historical plates. Royally kitschy, they’re perfect for desert and salad, and they’ve never failed to ignite dinner party conversation. Collecting them like baseball cards, so far I’ve been able to find enough royals for everyone at a table of eight to have their own doppelganger from Versailles. Once I locate the Sun King, the world will be my oyster. Do let me know if you spot him!

Never too many Madeleine pans...

4. Flatware

If obsessively buying dozens of silver-plated knives, forks and spoons is wrong, I don’t want to be right. I’m hooked. Decked out in intricate Art Deco and Art Nouveau patterns, each one typically costs only one or two euros. Do they need to match? Not on my table. If you’re into a little tarnish and exquisite patina, well then, pull up a chair and start sorting. The “keepers” go to the left.

Tip: During your flea market jaunt, also keep your eyes open wide for other classic French table items like linens, breadbaskets cutting boards and cheese molds, not to mention pepper mills, candle stick holders, and wire baskets—the latter were once used for collecting (and rinsing) eggs or slinging salad lettuce dry. Soon you will be just a-swingin’, Cheapos!

Clipping from Julia, “Toujours Bon Appétit!” Happy hunting!

Elsewhere in our guide: If you’re also hunting for a great inexpensive place to stay during your trip to Paris, be sure to stop by our Paris guide. You’ll find more than 100 recommended budget hotels, all visited, inspected and reviewed by our Paris-based correspondents. Read more.

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Paris Shopping List: 3 cheeses to try at the fromagerie https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-shopping-list-3-cheeses-to-try-at-the-fromagerie.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-shopping-list-3-cheeses-to-try-at-the-fromagerie.html#comments Mon, 19 Mar 2012 14:31:32 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=22613 Who doesn’t want to be a big cheese whiz? But with so many enchanting fromageries in Paris, how to make a cheese selection? Like hemlines, the variety of cheeses is seasonal and never-ever-ending. I have been there. So to help out, I’ve created a shopping list to use as a starting point. Crank up the » Read more

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Who doesn’t want to be a big cheese whiz? But with so many enchanting fromageries in Paris, how to make a cheese selection? Like hemlines, the variety of cheeses is seasonal and never-ever-ending.

I have been there. So to help out, I’ve created a shopping list to use as a starting point. Crank up the printer, because I’m about to share three cheeses that are not to be missed!

Brillat Savarin tastes like buttah.

1. Brillat Savarin (Tastes like buttah!)

Butter. Brillat. Butter. Brillat. That’s what he said. Thank my cheese monger friend Ishai (extraordinaire!), for introducing me to this very velvety, voluptuous beauty. I’m a fool for fresh salted butter, so for me it was love at first bite. In fact, I squealed. Read my hips. This decadent triple-cream cheese from Rouen contains a whopping 75% butterfat and about 40% fat overall.

Yes, this little piggy will be returning to the market for more. Tip: I recommend serving it with a sparkling wine or a palate-cleansing beer. The carbonation will cut the fat, while enhancing its milky mushroom flavor. Visiting Paris? Sample Brillat Savarin as a fresh young’un. For the love of cream cheese or ice cream, you won’t be sorry.

Here are a few historical tidbits to help pump up your plateau de fromages and cocktail party conversation. Created in the 1930s by Henri Androuët, he named the cheese after the 18th-century French gastronomic guru, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin.

A master of words and cuisine, B-S is responsible for such gems as: “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are,” and “A dessert without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye.” (Huh?)

Mighty Mimolette

2. Oh, Mighty Mimolette

Scatter close, my history bugs, because I’ve got another royal story to tell. After the Sun King banned imported goods from Holland in the 17th century, the folks in Lille, in northeastern France, put their heads together and created a copycat version of Edam, their favorite Dutch cheese. To make it sound more French, they called it Mimolette. After all, a rose by any other name is just as stinky!

So what’s the difference?

Though both have the same basic texture and spherical shape, Edam is dipped in red wax, while Mimolette features a natural (waxless) rind that gives it a neon orange hue. And thanks to the addition of cheese mites, it is riddled with holes. Yes, that’s right—mites!—as in bugs. But fear not, they’ve all flown the coop by the time the finished Mimolette makes it to market. So don’t even think about it!

Here’s a tip: Go vintage! The older, the better, my friend, is what my fromager tells me. Yes, given enough time, Mimolette eventually blossoms, revealing a rich, salty, hazelnut flavor. Looking a lot like a cantaloupe, both inside and out, just try the flaky “extra-vielle” (that’s been aged 18 to 22 months). By the way, it was Charles de Gaulle’s favorite cheese.

Morbier Fermier is smelly (and delicious) when ripe.

3. Morbier Fermier

Morbier Fermier is easily identifiable in display cases by the horizontal line of bluish ash cutting through it like a layer of icing in the middle of a vanilla cake. This dates back to when farmers would half-fill their cheese molds after the first milking and then scatter a little ash on the curds to keep bugs away till they’d milk the cows again and top up the molds.

Warning! When ripe, it can be smelly! But fear not, its aroma is stronger than its (grassy-with-a-lemon-twist) bite.

How did I discover Morbier Fermier? Again, with a little help from my friends. Film editor Yohan and media analyst Stéphanie are self-proclaimed “food enthusiasts” and proud of it. Whenever I attend one of their dinner parties, I always take notes. “We like Comté, Vacherin Mont d’Or and Morbier Fermier. They’re all from Yohan’s hometown, Besançon,” says Stéphanie.

Chez Virginie Fromagerie
54 rue Damrémont, 18th arrondissement (Métro Lamarck-Caulaincourt)

Where do Yohan and Stéphanie shop? Chez Virginie Fromagerie is their secret weapon. Virginie herself is a third-generation cheese monger, and extremely friendly and accessible. If you need help, just ask questions. I also recommend the shop’s signature chèvre, topped with pesto or tapenade.

Cheese tips?

Do you have a favorite French cheese? If so, let us know. Moo-la-la! Bon Appétit!

Also in our guide: If you’re planning a visit to Paris and are looking for a little hotel to go with your favorite cheese, look no further than our guide to inexpensive places to sleep. Our editors have visited, inspected and reviewed affordable hotels in central Paris and offer their recommendations for those offering the best value. Read more in our Paris guide.

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Paris: The city’s most enchanting bookstores https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-the-citys-most-enchanting-bookstores.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-the-citys-most-enchanting-bookstores.html#comments Mon, 05 Mar 2012 16:12:48 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=22385 By Theadora Brack in Paris— Bookworms, ignite! This week, we’re headed to my new favorite bookshop in Paris. Located in historic Montmartre, the cozy, century-old Librairie Robert Jonard softly glows with vintage reading lamps, books, art and antiques. Truth unfold, the shop’s ambiance and eclectic collection stole my book-collecting heart immediately. For the love of » Read more

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By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Bookworms, ignite! This week, we’re headed to my new favorite bookshop in Paris. Located in historic Montmartre, the cozy, century-old Librairie Robert Jonard softly glows with vintage reading lamps, books, art and antiques. Truth unfold, the shop’s ambiance and eclectic collection stole my book-collecting heart immediately.

For the love of Woody Allen, I’ll give you two other bookshops that also flaunt a jazzy, romantic “Midnight in Paris” vibe. Let’s go!

Paris books of all ages in the Librairie Robert Jonard.

1. Librairie Robert Jonard
80 rue Joseph de Maistre, 18th arrondissement (Metro Abbesses)

Getting there

Meet me at the Cimetière de Montmartre gates (corner of rue Caulaincourt and rue des Abbesses), and then, depending on the weather, we’ll either hoof it or take the “95” bus. Let’s pack a picnic because there’s a park next to the shop. It’s a sublime reading spot.

As we roll down hill to the shop, keep your eyes peeled for Librairie Robert Jonard’s classic French green “Antiquites Livres Anciens” façade and gorgeous vitrine. Chock-full of paintings, photographs and African sculpture, it will stop you in your tracks. Let’s not also forget to mention the large box of discounted books at the door. Cha-ching!

What’s not to frame?

Warm and fuzzy

Inside, the bookshop possesses the vibe of an old-school salon. Outfitted in rugs and antique furniture, it gave me a strong Proustian dose of solidarity with both past and present. It smelled great, too. This intimate bookshop is well stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, records, postcards and antique magazines.

Deciding exactly where to start your quest is the only glitch you’ll encounter here as you make your way through the floor to ceiling bookshelves, stocked with discounted books that have been meticulously organized by favorite categories like art, travel, and cinema, along with gardening, history and Paris.

Annelise at Librairie Robert Jonard

I’ve got my eye on a Paris souvenir booklet, a Steinlen exposition catalog and a 1950 signed copy of “Paris des Reves” by Bidermanas Izis (with quotes by Henry Miller).

Looking for a specific title or subject?

Ask proprietors Annelise Signoret and Robert Jonard. Both are friendly and accessible. They are also computer savvy and speak English. Here’s another tip: Annelise keeps a stash of beverages and snacks, and she is always willing to share while you browse. Just tell her that you’re a Cheapo. She’s one, too!

Here are two more favorite bookshops. Grab a ballpoint pen!

Pass the day at Mona Lisait

2. Librairies Mona Lisait
17 bis rue Pavée, 4th arrondissement (Metro: St. Paul)
Place Joachim du Bellay, 1st arrondissement (Metro: Châtalet)

I’ve been known to spend entire days in the aisles of the Librairies Mona Lisait. Although this funky bookstore chain that specializes in new and used art books has shops scattered all over Paris, its Marais location is closest to my heart. Its creaky wooden floorboards, uneven cobbled flooring, tinny classical music, helpful staff, and free gift-wrapping all add up to real atmosphere.

Another favorite is the one at Place Joachim du Bellay, not far from the Centre Pompidou. Each of the seven locations has its own charm, and definitely worth a visit. (By the way, “Mona lisait” means “Mona was reading.”)

Browse within sight of Notre Dame at Shakespeare and Company

3. Shakespeare and Company
37 Rue Bûcherie, 5th arrondissement (Métro Saint Michel)

Yearning for your own copy of Victor Hugo’s Notre-Dame de Paris? After getting an eyeful of the real thing, cross the river and stop by the English bookshop Shakespeare and Company, located in a former 16th-century monastery in sight of the big cathedral. Both paperback and hardcover copies of the book are always available here.

A favorite Beat Generation haunt, the late, great George Whitman (Walt Whitman’s nephew) opened the rue Bûcherie location in 1951 under the name of “Le Mistral.” He changed its name to Shakespeare and Company as a tribute to his friend Sylvia Beach after she closed up the original shop by the same name, which had been a few blocks away.

Until December 2011, the grand and dapper old man himself held court here, but alas he is with us no more. You are missed, kind sir.

Nevertheless, happy browsing, Cheapos! In the words of Morrissey, “Keats and Yeats are on your side, strange love, while Wilde is on mine.”

Your favorite bookstores?

Have an enchanting bookstore to add to our list? Tell us about it in our comments section!

Also in our guide: If you’re browsing for a hotel in Paris that will enchant you without shattering your budget, check out our suggestions for affordable hotels, all visited, inspected and reviewed by our editors. Read more in our Paris guide.

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Paris: What’s hot (and what’s not) in 2012 https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-whats-hot-and-whats-not-in-2012.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-whats-hot-and-whats-not-in-2012.html#comments Mon, 09 Jan 2012 09:13:11 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=21577 I’ve decided to kick-off the grand New Year with another shot of what’s red-hot and what’s not in Paris. I’ll also include a few cool tips. So grab a chair and a spiked cuppa because it’s about to get real in the City of Light! 1. Je ne regrette rien—NOT. Dear Musée Edith Piaf, You » Read more

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I’ve decided to kick-off the grand New Year with another shot of what’s red-hot and what’s not in Paris. I’ll also include a few cool tips. So grab a chair and a spiked cuppa because it’s about to get real in the City of Light!

1. Je ne regrette rien—NOT.

Dear Musée Edith Piaf, You broke my heart. Was it really necessary to slam the door in my face back in November when I arrived at your doorstep without a set rendezvous? I’ve loved you since my first visit back in 1998, and every visit since. So what gives? Do the math. For over a decade, I’ve been sending folks your way. In this easy, breezy social media world, perhaps a new system is needed? Just asking.

Anna's music box shop Paris

Regrette rien at Anna’s music box shop.

If operations get switched up for the better, do let me know. Nothing in this world would give me more pleasure than happily spreading the word about the “little sparrow” and your collection once more. (5 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75011)

Happy alternative plays on

Yearning for a little “La Vie en Rose” to take home with you? Then trek it to Boîtes à Musique Anna Joliet. Located at the northern end of the Jardin du Palais Royal, Anna and her collection of hand-cranked music boxes have held court here for three decades. Prices start at only €8.

Looking for a specific tune? Just ask. Listen for Debussy, Chopin, and Charles Trénet, along with Mozart, Beethoven and Andrew Lloyd Webber. Yes, fellow felines, “Memory” is always in stock.

Paris Centre Pompidou

The Centre Pompidou. All that plumbing… and not one decent toilet.

2. Skip the loo—entirely.

Dear Centre Pompidou, I love you, but it’s time to clean up your act, as my grandmother Helen would quip. I’m no restroom diva, but golly gee wham—I nearly fainted during a recent visit. All that piping on the outside of the building and there’s still a problem? It makes the mind reel! Perhaps it’s time to get Point WC on the horn. After all, their restrooms at the Louvre and Printemps are state of the art and consistently spotless. It’s just a thought.

By the way, the Point WC washrooms are pretty hot. One euro gets you private seating in a water closet lit by rose-colored lights, and stocked with fluorescent toilet paper in blues, pinks, and greens. Just don’t leave your soda pop bottle behind. They will hunt you down, and give you a scolding at sink side! My-O-My, bad.

Alternative pit stop

Cheapos, if you plan to visit the Centre Pompidou, pick your potty spot prior to your arrival. Or run nearby to the grand washrooms at the BHV department store (Bazaar de l’Hotel de Ville), which also boasts one of my pet views of Paris. It’s a straight shot down rue du Renard. Make a left at rue Rivoli. It’s also definitely worth the wait (or trot)!

So what’s red hot? Follow my lead!

Farewell, Sympa.

1. Sympa

Due to a recent fire, two of my favorite Sympa shops have closed. Located at the historic “Bal de l’Elysée Montmartre,” this is where Can Can starlet (and muse of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec) La Goulue got her start before joining the Moulin Rouge.

I nearly cried when I spotted the damage. Confession: I did cry. Its façade is still a beauty, on the outside at least. I’ll keep you posted on any future reconstruction work.

In the meantime, the Sympa bargain bins on rue Steinkerque and along Boulevard de Rochechouart are still overflowing with tremendous deals.

Starbucks Paris Moulin Rouge

Wendy at the Starbucks kitty-corner to the Moulin Rouge.

2. Starbucks

Café Royalists, look away because you’re going to hate this tip. During my sister Wen’s recent trip to Paris, the Starbucks at Place Blanche is where she picked up her morning coffee.

Located kitty-corner to the Moulin Rouge, the place was bustling, but by the end of her week-long visit, the amiable staff not only knew her name, but also her standard “Café Latte skim” order. Did they make fun of her French? I don’t think so!

Inside and out, the jaunty joint was packed with locals, not tourists, by the way. Don’t hate me because I’m truthful.

Pumped and ready at Minutit moins 7.

3. Minuit moins 7

And speaking of red hot steals, I recently scored a pair of Christian Louboutin kitten heels at a flea market for just €15. They’re real and they’re spectacular. Except for the soles, the black leather shoes were in perfect condition.

So what to do? I took them to the Minuit moins 7 for a much-needed official red resoling. Located in the historic passage Véro-Dodat, the repair will cost just €20. Also, this is where Monsieur Louboutin takes his very own shoes. Ask about their signature homemade (and affordable) shoe polish.

Bibliotheque Forney Paris

“Gaz à les étages around 1880” at the Bibliothèque Forney

4. Bibliothèque Forney

While strolling about in the Marais, I stumbled upon the “Gaz à tous les étages” exhibition at the Bibliothèque Forney in the Hotel de Sens (1 rue du Figuier, 75004). It’s definitely worth a pop in. Named as a nod to the little blue enamel signs that can still be spotted on buildings throughout the City of Light (“All floors have gas”—a 19th century boasting), the exhibit recounts the brilliant history of gas in Paris.

Highlights include antique lighting and cooking equipment, gas company uniforms, and a stellar collection of advertising posters along with a 1920s kitchen and hair salon, an Art Nouveau bathroom, and Frédéric Kastner’s weirdly entrancing gas organ. It’s a looker, and one of only two in the world. “Gaz à tous” will stay on through January 28, 2012.

Happy New Year, Cheapos!

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