What to look for

Cheapos with an appetite are well served by a number of low-cost eateries in the central district of Mitte, where most major sights are located, that turn out big, warm meals at surprisingly low prices.

Unless you’re in an adventurous mood, be sure to avoid Berlin’s more unusual specialties, including Eisbein (pickled knuckle of pork), Hering nach Hausfrauenart (pickled herring), and Gekochte Eier in Senfsauce (boiled eggs in creamy mustard sauce). Stick instead to filling classics like roasts, schnitzels, sausage, and vegetarian-friendly casseroles.

Where to get home-cooking in Mitte

Follow procrastinating Humboldt University students to Deponie No. 3 (Georgen Str. 5, U-bahn and S-bahn: Friedrich Str.) for a budget-friendly meal that will keep you fueled for hours. Near the pricey Friedrich Strasse and stately Museum Insel, this wood-lined, pub-like eatery is adorned with a hodgepodge of hokey antiques. Find a wooden table and peruse a huge menu of classic German meals like mama makes. Most entrees, including stuffed cabbage, big schnitzels, and vegetable Aufläufe (casseroles), cost less than €10.

Decorated with antique movie posters, cozy Sophieneck (Grosse Hamburger Str. 37, U-bahn: Weinmeister Str.) is steps from Hackescher Markt’s pricey boutiques and Sophien Strasse’s exclusive art galleries. Luckily, prices for dishes such as roasted pork, Bratwurst, and Boulette (meat patties), aren’t out of reach. Even with a beer, you can dine for about €10. Stop by for lunch to take advantage of the daily specials, which always include a vegetarian option (€5.90).

Quick eats that will still warm you up

If you’re in a rush or about the catch a train, head to the food court on the ground floor of the Friedrich Strasse Bahnhof (train station, U-bahn and S-bahn: Friedrich Str.) to find German classics served with speed at Damisch (across from the Edeka grocery store). Dishes like stew, schnitzel, Bratkartoffeln (fried potatoes), and a plus-sized Currywurst usually go for €5–7. With a meal like this, you won’t notice the brisk temperatures outside.

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Luckily, visitors don’t have to feel left out of the biking fun: Bike rentals are cheap and easy to find. And tooling around by Rad won’t just make you look and feel like a local—it will also enable you to access sights that are otherwise impossible to visit by foot or too time consuming to visit via public transportation.

Before burning rubber, read this little guide to find out where to find a bike, how to ride like a local, and which bike paths to seek out.

Step One: Rent Wheels

Many hotels and hostels will arrange bike rentals for you. But if they don’t, both Fat Tire Bike Rentals (€12/day) and fahrradstation (€15-20/day) boast several locations throughout the city. If you have time to hunt for cheaper prices (you can find bikes for as low as €8/day), scour neighborhoods like Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, and Kreuzberg for upstart rental spots.

Step Two: Follow the Rules!

Since most Berliners use their bikes as a form of transportation and are sticklers about the rules, you should brush up on a few Regeln before pedaling. You’ll see plenty of bikers blowing through red lights, weaving through traffic, and speeding past pedestrians on a sidewalk. Don’t follow their example! They give bikers a bad name—and they are asking for a ticket.

If there is a bike lane, use it. (But first make sure that you’re riding in the correct direction; not all paths are two-way.) If there isn’t a bike lane, ride on the street—not the sidewalk. Stop at stop signs, stop lights, and never, ever assume that a car driver sees you coming.

You are free to bring your bike with you onto the U-bahn (subway) and S-bahn (commuter train)—as long as you use designated compartments (look for the bike sign on the door). Baby carriages and wheelchairs have priority.

Step Three: Hit the paths

Berlin boasts 620 kilometers (385 miles) of bike paths. We’ve highlighted two of our favorites below, but the city government’s English-language biking page offers a complete overview of Berlin’s biking opportunities.

Path: Follow the Wall

The Berlin Mauerweg is a well-marked route that follows the contours of the 12-kilometer-long Berlin Wall. Though the actual divider is long gone, taking this scenic, off-the-beaten-path trail that passes through often-overlooked districts is the only way to get a true sense of the Wall’s size and scope.

For inspiration beforehand, rent the documentaries “Cycling the Frame” and “The Invisible Frame”. They feature the actress Tilda Swinton biking the Wall in 1988 and 2009 respectively.

Path: Take a Dip

Visiting the peaceful and historic Wannsee, a posh lake district in far-western Berlin, by public transportation is time consuming. After taking the S-bahn to the Wannsee station, you have to walk (a lot) or rely on buses to see the lake’s must-see sights: a historic public beach, the gripping Haus am Wannsee-Konfernz, and the romantic, flower-filled Pfaueninsel (“Peacock Island”).

Take a bike along with you or rent a bike at the lake, then pedal from one sight to the next at your leisure. Don’t forget your bathing suit!

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Big shows with hefty price tags, including Patti Smith, Prince, Stevie Wonder, Arcade Fire and more, will hit the capital’s dozens of stages this season. But there are so many smaller and cheaper venues throughout the city that you won’t have a hard time catching up-and-coming acts for little—or even nothing.

Here’s a rundown of our favorite venues that sing the Cheapo tune:

Be Worldly

Housed in a funky 1950s building dubbed the “pregnant oyster” by locals, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt (S-bahn: Hauptbahnhof; U-bahn: Bundestag) hosts dozens of free or inexpensive acts from far-flung corners of the world.

The multi-kulti (German slang for multicultural) Wassermusik Festival (July 22-August 13) features live music outdoors (or, in the case of rain, inside). This year’s theme—the Danube, the Nile and the Amazon—dictates the diverse acts, which hail from Hungary, Peru, Uganda and beyond. Tickets are €10. After the concert, you can take a relaxing—and cost-free—stroll through the expansive Tiergarten park.

Jazz-a-ma-tazz

Berlin’s most famous jazz club, Quasimodo, shuts its doors July and August, but A-Trane (S-bahn: Savingyplatz) and B-Flat (S-bahn: Hackeschermarkt) sweat out the summer. Both venues offer the occasional free concerts; B-Flat shows are rarely more than €10 (€8 if you’re a student).

Open-Air

Berlin’s most beloved summer hangout, Badeshiff (U-bahn: Schlesisches Tor, €4), doubles as a music venue in July and August. Badeschiff is a swimming pool floating atop the Spree River in the funky district of Treptow, just east of bar-lined Kreuzberg. During the day, it’s the place to cool off and recover from a night on the town. After 8 p.m., it’s the place to catch some inexpensive tunes before hitting the bars again. Performers include singer-songwriters and DJs. Shows start at 8 p.m. and cost €4.

If you do feel like shelling out for a full-price concert, check out Comet Club (S-bahn and U-bahn: Schlesisches Tor) for shows under €20 and O2 Welt (S-bahn: Ostbahnhof), Huxelys Neue Welt (U-bahn: Hermannplatz), Arena (S-bahn: Treptower Park) and Magnet Club (U-bahn: Schlesisches Tor) for pricier options.

Don’t forget to check out Zitty, Tip and the English-language Ex-Berliner for comprehensive event listings. If you’re trying to decipher German, look for the word frei (free).

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Stick to studenty/artsy neighborhoods—the Mitte/Prenzlauer Berg border, Kreuzberg, and Friedrichshain—and you’ll be sure to score a dud or two that will make you look oh-so-European for oh-so-few Euros. We think that Mitte/Prenzlauer border and Kreuzberg are the best hunting grounds.

Young and hip: The Mitte/Prenzlauer Berg Border

Most of the boutiques lines up on Kastanienallee, Oderberger Strasse, Eberswalder Strasse, and Schönhauser Allee, are inexpensive repositories of stylish his and her fashions. We’re partial to the bright and colorful Kwikshop (Kastanienallee 44), which specializes in locally-crafted clothing, notebooks, and fun, reasonably-priced gifties. Continue up the street to find Skunk Funk (Kastanienallee 19), a young and fun boutique well-stocked with great little getups.

Turn left onto Oderberger Strasse to find more clothing shops and a smattering of second-hand and vintage spots. Paul’s Boutique (Oderberger Str. 47) hawks used designer sneakers; VEB Orange (Oderberger Str. 29) specializes in East German throwbacks.

If you’re after designs by local Berliners and you’re in the area on Sunday (when most other shops are closed), the Mauer Park Flöhmarkt (U-bahn: Eberswalder Str., Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.), which lives in the scruffy park at the eastern end of Oderberger Strasse, is the place. A hybrid flea market-craft/design fair, the dusty, cramped, and excellent flea market boasts dozens of booths hawking duds and jewelry by young Berlin designers hoping to make it big.

Edgy and Worldly: Kreuzberg

Head southwest to Kreuzberg, where you’ll find another batch of inexpensive yet style-conscious shops. Shops here tend to be of the edgy (think leather and studs) or worldly (as in hemp, and vegan) variety—but there is a wide range of styles thrown into the mix.

From the Gorlitzer Bahnhof U-bahn stop, stroll down Oranien Strasse to find looks like appeal to the hoods cosmopolitan, punk-ish crowd. Depot 2 (Oranien Str. 9) draws fashion-forward types. The organic duds are noteworthy.

On the other side of district, the Bergmannkiez (the area around Bergmann Strasse; U-bahn: Geneisenau Str.) is just a touch more upscale. But the secondhand shop Colours Kleidermarkt (Bergmann Str. 192)—where you can buy a kilo of clothes for less than €15; on Tuesday, between 10 a.m.-3 p.m. it’s only €10—is worth the journey. (So is a divine döner from Mustafas Gemüse Kebab on Mehringdamm, near the entrance to the U-bahn).

Further Afield

If you’re into bargain shopping and you’ll be in Berlin for a while, consider a stop at Designer Outlet Berlin (Alter Spandauer Weg 1; RE 2 & Bus 662). A half-hour ride from the city center, this new mall offers German brands for less.

Closer to the Center, there are three T.K. Maxx (check the website for locations) outposts—owned by the same people behind T.J Maxx and Marshall’s. They are among the first discount shops of their kind in Germany—so expect a crowd of bargain hunters.

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“Inglorious Basterds,” “The Bourne Supremacy” and “A Good German” are just a few of the films that have been enhanced by the city’s historic and high-tech architecture. Berlin also boasts a cutting-edge film studio, Studio Babelsberg, which produces mega-budget action flicks. What’s up next? “Unknown White Male” with Liam Neeson, January Jones and Diane Kruger.

It only makes sense, then, that Berlin is well-stocked with a wide range of movie theaters. A host of quirky cinemas studding the city play anything but mainstream fare. In fact, you’re more likely to catch an offbeat, English-language independent film in Berlin than in many major cities in the U.S.

Ticket prices and Kinotage

Film-going in Berlin is decidedly Cheapo-friendly. Prices are relatively low—most films don’t cost more than €7. They’re even cheaper on Kinotage (“Movie Day”), when tickets are reduced by about €1.50. Kinotage varies by theater, but it’s usually on Tuesday. Be sure to avoid movies longer than two hours and ten minutes—they can cost up to €1 more.

For current movie listings, pick up an issue or visit the Web sites of Zitty or Tip, the city’s weekly entertainment and cultural listings magazines.

Here are four great cinema options for movie-goers in Berlin:

Babylon Cinema
Rosa Luxemburg Str. 30
U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
Admission: €6.50

With its old-fashioned neon marquee, Babylon Berlin is the best of the Yorck Kinogruppe’s art theaters. Its film buff-approved lineup almost always includes English-language films or foreign films with English subtitles, making it a favorite among Berlin’s expats. The theater also hosts occasional film festivals and book talks. After catching a showing, discuss the film over a beer at a nearby Hackescher Markt bar.

Hackesche Höfe Kino
Rosenthaler Str. 40/41
S-bahn: Hackescher Markt
Admission:  €8 (€6.50 on Monday and Tuesday)

Also in Mitte, the Hackesche Höfe Kino is a downsized “multiplex” in one of the neighborhood’s historic courtyards. Movies—from the U.S., Europe and beyond—tend to be critically acclaimed and independent. Documentaries are also well represented.

CineStar Berlin-Original
Potsdamer Str. 4
S-/U-bahn: Potsdamer Platz
Admission: €7; loge seats: €8

Potsdamer Platz is another major place to catch a movie. The futuristic Sony Center is home to two theaters that offer vastly different options. The subterranean CineStar Berlin-Original is an American-style multiplex that plays Hollywood blockbusters in their original versions.

Arsenal
Potsdamer Str. 2
S-/U-bahn: Potsdamer Platz
Admission:€6.50

Adjoining the Filmmuseum Berlin, the Arsenal provides an indie alternative to Cinestar. Also housed in the Sony Center, it runs film series that focus on a specific director—usually a classic like John Ford or Ingmar Bergman.

Note: No matter which theater you choose, be warned that movie theater popcorn in Berlin is sweet.

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A network of leafy lanes and avenues perched on a barely perceptible hill (“berg”) just northeast of the center, this district offers such a perfect mix of cafés, restaurants, boutiques and charming architecture that it sometimes has a “this-is-too-good-to-true”, movie-set vibe to it. If Woody Allen were to make a film in Berlin, this is where he’d shoot it.

“Prenzlberg” emerged as a bustling, working class industrial hub in the 19th century—and still has the rows upon rows of (now-restored) tenement houses, complete with ornate stucco details and flower-bedecked balconies, to prove it. Also adding a historic touch are the restored and repurposed red brick factories studding the area. (The Kulturbrauerei cultural center, a former beer brewery, is an essential stop on a tour of the district.)

Ideal city living in the Kollwitzkiez

One century later, the district gained fame as the home base of East Germany’s poets, novelists, dissidents and intellectuals, who gathered around Köllwitzplatz, a triangular park named after the leftist artist and anti-war protestor, Kathe Köllwitz. (Her work is honored over in western Berlin’s Kathe Köllwitz Museum.) The district was grimy then, but the apartment buildings had survived the war relatively unscathed.

Fast forward to this century, and an over-sized bronze statue of Kollwitz is still watching over the park. But now, instead of gray, rundown façades, she faces swing sets and awning-shaded tables marking the cafés and bars along Kollwitz Strasse, Knaack Strasse and Wörther Strasse, the district’s three most genteel streets.

On Saturdays, a market, the Markt am Kollwitzplatz, takes over the square. Overflowing with gourmet food and hand-crafted clothing, it makes this corner of Berlin an urban paradise. After a stroll through the market, it’s practically mandatory to stop at Kaffeehaus SowohlalsAuch, a café-bakery famous for its cakes. Sit outside, even if it’s a bit chilly—blankets draped over the chairs will keep you warm.

This idyllic square is just one indication that this once-rundown neighborhood has morphed into the reunified city’s most appealing “Szeneviertel” (scene). Some Berliners grumble that well-to-do yuppies—many of whom add stylish little tykes to their brood—transformed the once-bohemian, left-leaning district into a pretentious playground for affluent, western German transplants, but the area retains a touch of alluring grittiness, especially along wide avenues like Schönhauser Allee, Prenzlauer Allee and Danziger Strasse.

A laid-back itinerary

The best way to tour the district is to start at the U-Bahn Senerfelder Platz. Walk north on Kollwitz Strasse to reach Kollwitzplatz. Continue north onto Knaack Strasse to reach the Kulturbrauerei (nearby, on Schönhauser Allee 44a, underneath the U-bahn tracks, is the famed Currywurst kiosk, Konnopke’s).

If you have time, keep heading north, across Danziger Strasse, to explore the mellow streets surrounding another classic Prenzlauer Berg square, Helmholzplatz. Bordered by Lynchener Strasse, Raumer Strasse, Duncker Strasse and Lette Strasse, it’s well stocked with shops and café-restaurants.

In addition to the Kulturbraueri, the district’s Cheapo-friendly sights include the redbrick Wasserturm (Watertower, between Knaack Strasse und Belforter Strasse), which served as one of the city’s first concentration camps, and the Jüdischer Friedhof (Jewish Cemetery, Schönhauser Allee 22-23), one of Germany’s largest historic Jewish resting places. The Zeiss Grosplantarium ( Prenzlauer Allee 80) offers inexpensive tours of the stars.

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For culture vultures: Tiergarten

The vast Tiergarten park (S-bahn: Potsdammer Platz, Tiergarten, Bellvue, Reichstag) in Berlin’s center offers green meadows, groves of trees, mossy ponds, and dozens of monuments and memorials. After enjoying a picnic lunch in the park, follow the shaded pathways lacing the park to discover famous sites, including the hard-to-miss Siegessäule (victory column) and the bubble-gum pink Schloss Belvedere (the German president’s palace), and not-so-famous sites, including the quiet Luiseninsel (Luise Island) and the bronze Bismarck Nationaldenkmal (Bismarck Memorial).

One of Tiergarten’s quirkiest attractions is the Berliner Gaslaternen-Freilichtmuseum (Berlin Open Air Gas Lantern Museum, Strasse des 17. Juni), an open-air (and free) collection of some 90 gas lanterns.

For people-watchers: Volkspark Friedrichshain

Don’t expect to have this historic green space, which straddles the Mitte-Prenzlauer Berg-Friedrichshain border, all to yourself. Since the late 19th Century, picnickers, sport-nuts, families, and sun-worshippers have shown up early and in droves on sunny days to claim a patch of the pleasant, well-worn park.

If you’re lucky, you can wrangle a table at Cafe Schönbrunn, a retro-stylish café-restaurant in the middle of the park. There are also plenty of cheapo-friendly gelateria nearby. Be sure to check out the recently-restored Märchenbrünnen (fairytale fountain) at the park’s western-most point (where Frieden Str. and am Friedrichshain meet). It’s a grand way to enter the park.

For romantics: Pfaueninsel

You have to take an S-bahn, bus, and ferry to reach the Pfaueninsel (peacock island), a historic park-island in the Havel river, near the Wannsee lake on Berlin’s far western edge. But the journey is worth the opportunity to explore this little paradise.

Laid out in the 19th Century, the park features a white brick palace that the Prussian King Frederick William II built for his mistress, as well as bursts of roses and a collection of exotic birds, including dozens of free-roaming peacocks. Designed for proposals—or at least romantic picnics—this is a place for lovey-dovey couples and nature lovers.

For world travelers: The Gärten der Welt in the Erholungspark Marzahn

Like the Pfaueninsel, the off-beat Erholungspark Marzahn (€3, S-bahn: Marzahn & Bus 195;
U-bahn Hellersdorf & Bus 195) isn’t easy to reach. But because it’s nestled in one of the city’s most off-beat and least-visited districts—the Plattenbau-lined district of Marzahn—the journey adds to the adventure. When else will you have an excuse to check out a post-Communist, eastern Berlin suburb?

Despite its somewhat unpleasant surroundings, the Erholungspark and its Gärten der Welt (gardens of the world), is an oasis of tranquility—and worldliness. In addition to the largest Chinese garden in Europe, which was designed in partnership with Berlin’s sister city, Beijing, and includes a tea room, the park boats authentic Japanese, Balinese, Middle Eastern, Korean, and Italian Renaissance gardens. Get lost in the labyrinth—but beware:  It’s not as easy to navigate as it looks.

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Here’s a guide to our favorite memorials, including those that are on the well-beaten tourist path and those that are all-too-often overlooked by visitors.

1. Behren Strasse (U/S-bahn: Reichstag or Potsdamer Platz) is the wide avenue that runs alongside the Tiergarten park and connects Unter den Linden to Potsdamer Platz. Behrn Strasse is home to the U.S. Embassy, as well as two World War II monuments.

On the beaten path…

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Ebert Str. & Behren Str.), which is commonly known as the Holocaust Memorial, is a maze of steel gray “stele”, tomb-like slabs, that covers an entire block. Don’t forget to visit the subterranean documentation center for gripping, sobering exhibits about the victims of the Holocaust.

Off the beaten path…

Standing on the edge of the Tiergarten Park (on Ebert Str., between Behren Str. & Hannah-Arendt Str.), the Memorial for Gays Persecuted by Nazis is only a short stroll away from the Holocaust Memorial. Peek through the small “window” on the side of the 13-foot-tall concrete block to see a black and white film that depicts two men kissing. “A simple kiss could cause trouble,” reads the accompanying plaque.

2. Grosse Hamburger Strasse is a long, elegant avenue steps from Hackescher Markt. The street was once a center of Jewish life. It hosted one of the earliest Jewish cemeteries, as well as a home for seniors (marked with a plaque) and a school for boys (now the heavily-fortified Jüdische Oberschule, a school for children of all faiths). Today, the entire street is an open-air memorial to the Mitte’s once-vibrant Jewish community.

On the beaten path…

Will Lambert designed a bronze statue dedicated to the Jewish victims of fascism in 1957. Standing on the site of the long-destroyed Jewish cemetery, on the spot were Jews were deported to concentration camps, the somber memorial depicts a cluster of women and children awaiting their tragic fates.

Off the beaten path…

Installed in 1990 by the French artist Christian Boltanski, the Missing House (once at 15/16 Grosse Hamburger Str.) pays poignant tribute to one of the city’s many voids—in this case, a house that was never rebuilt after its 1945 destruction by Allied bombs. Twelve black-and-white plaques bearing the names, birth and death dates, and occupation of the building’s final residents adorn the facing walls of the two neighboring buildings. It’s a subtle, easy-to-miss tribute.

Continue north on Grosse Hamburger Strasse to reach the quiet, residential square of Koppenplatz. Standing on the northern side is a bronze statue of a table and two chairs, one of which is tipped over onto its back. The Memorial to the Deserted Room, by Karl Biedermann, pays tribute to the many Jews who were forced from their homes. It was installed in 1991.

3. Treptower Park (S-bahn: Treptower Park or Plänterwald) is an expansive stretch of green that runs alongside the Spree river in eastern Berlin. Big with picnickers, dog-walkers, and even boaters, the park is lined with gorgeous “Jugendstil” mansions and apartment buildings that reflect its history as a well-to-do district. It bears two intriguing traces of East Berlin architecture.

On the beaten path…

Occupying a massive swath of green, the gargantuan Soviet Memorial was built by the Soviet Union shortly after World War II to honor the Soviet soldiers who died in the battle for Berlin (1945-1949). Massive marble memorial plaques are overshadowed by the memorial’s focal point–a statue of a Soviet soldier, cradling a German child in his arms.

Off the beaten path…

Schlesischer Busch, a small, scrubby park north of Treptower Park, on the Treptow-Kreuzberg border (Puschkinallee), is home to a former Wachturm (watchtower) that’s been transformed into a small art gallery. Other than the concrete, graffiti-marred tower, there are no longer any traces here of the Berlin Wall that divided the city.

Tell us: Have you been to any of these memorials? Do you have another favorite monument or memorial that you’d like to add to our list? Tell us about it in the comments section.

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Cheapos traveling from the German capital (or beyond) when snowy conditions prevail should take a few steps to prepare for the absolute worst: cancelled flights and missed connections. The following precautionary measures will make an unplanned night or two in Berlin or your layover city more cost (and time) efficient.

1. Carry on your essentials

It is all too often the case that travelers aren’t allowed to re-claim their bags once they’ve checked them, even if their flight is cancelled or they’re stranded in a layover airport. As a result, a well-packed carry-on is key to avoiding the cancellation blues.

Pack a change of underwear and a clean T-shirt, as well as three-ounce-or-less containers of soap, toothpaste, deodorant, and/or whatever you can’t live without for a night (or two). If you have a cell phone or a laptop, bring along the energy cord and converter plug. If you’re easily bored, pack reading material or a deck of cards.

2. Check your flight

If it’s snowing or the weather forecast calls for snow on your departure date, check the status of your flight online before heading to the airport. If flights out of your airport and/or your layover airport are canceled, call the airline to find out if your flight will make it.

3. Consider Re-booking

If airline officials suspect that your flight (or flights) will be canceled, they may encourage you to book a seat on a flight the leaves in a day or two, or after weather conditions have improved. If you have a flexible schedule and enough euros to tide you over for an extra day or two, you shouldn’t hesitate to extend your trip. Waiting around in a crowded airport is a lot less fun than roaming Berlin’s warm and cozy museums.

4. Avoid the airport

If you find out that your flight is cancelled before getting to the airport, don’t waste time or money on transportation to the airport. Since both Tegel and Schönefeld are too small to handle a crowd, you’d probably be turned away or stuck waiting in a confusing, slow-moving re-booking line. Your best bet is to find the nearest phone or computer and work the airline’s customer service line.

5. Book a room with flexible terms

If it is likely that your flight will be canceled, reserve a room at a hostel or hotel that doesn’t require a credit card hold or advanced payment. If you end up making the flight, you can always cancel the room before boarding. Ensuring that you have a place to stay is especially important if you’re flying through Tegel; sleeping in the airport isn’t an ideal option. (Sometimes guards kick travelers out after the last flight of the evening has arrived; sometimes they herd everyone to Terminal D.)

6. Know your rights

Luckily, travelers passing through the European Union are entitled to reimbursements for food, transport, or accommodation if their flight is canceled (some restrictions apply). Treat yourself to a nice hotel and a big meal if the airline is footing the bill!

7. Bring along a snack

Before heading to the airport, where food is overpriced and not very good, stock up on granola bars, nuts, or other lightweight snacks at a Cheapo grocery store like Aldi. If you get stuck overnight, at least you’ll have something to nibble on.

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While a handful of the more established galleries (for example C/O Berlin, Sammlung Boros, and Sammlung Hoffmann) charge admission for the privilege of perusing their high-profile exhibitions, the vast majority of galleries are free to visit. As can be expected, some prestigious spots are as pretentious as they come, but most are casual affairs that you can pop in and out of on a whim, without fretting about your wardrobe or your cheapo bank account.

Touring the galleries of Mitte

Most (but certainly not all) of the city’s art galleries—from the upscale to the funky–roost in the central district of Mitte. After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, gallery-owners based in Charlottenburg, the tony district in the western part of town that once dominated the city’s art scene, decamped to the “newer,” edgier side of the city to take advantage of its avant garde spaces, low rents, and international buzz factor.

Start a tour of the district’s gallery scene at the eastern end of Auguststrasse. Since many of the galleries lined up on this quiet street are window-lined, you can check out the artwork on display inside as you stroll past. At the western end of August Strasse, you’ll hit heavily-touristed Oranienburger Strasse, where the famous squatters/art commune (which has occupied a bombed-out department store since the fall of the wall) hovers above the corner of Chausse Strasse. You can explore the graffitied warren of studios and exhibition rooms comprising Kunsthaus Tacheles for free.

To catch a few more galleries, head back east along Linienstrasse, an elegant, café- and boutique-lined street that runs parallel to Auguststrasse. Be sure to admire the costumes on display in Wunderkind Vintage, a gorgeous space on the corner of Tucholskystrasse that is best described as a “gallery to fashion.” Turn right onto Tucholsky, where you’ll find a few more galleries. At Oranienburger Strasse, you can hop on a tram to Rosenthaler Platz.

From this bustling square, head east along gritty Torstrasse for a couple of blocks to check out the handful of innovative galleries and designer boutiques nestled on the southern side of the street. Double back to Rosenthaler Platz and walk north on Brunnenstrasse. (If you need a coffee break first, stop at one of the cafes on Weinbergsweg.) On the stretch of the wide street between Invalidenstrasse and Bernauer Strasse, you’ll find a smattering of youthful and unpretentious galleries. End your tour at the Bernauer Strasse U-bahn station.

Look for openings

As you explore the gallery scene, look out for fliers advertising upcoming openings. Catching a “vernissage” means the opportunity to mix and mingle with Berlin’s multicultural art scenesters, as well as score a free beer or wine.

For a more complete overview of the city’s gallery-filled hoods, download a copy of Kunstmagazin Berlin and check out their map and corresponding list of galleries.

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