Here are four of my favorite spots for people watching in Rome.

The Spanish Steps

Taking its name because of the Spanish ambassador who once lived here, the steps leading up from Piazza di Spagna to the Trinita dei Monti church are ideal for taking a rest after a day’s shopping in the nearand all those fabulous tourists and Romans—go by.

Piazza Trilussa

Just over the Ponte Sisto bridge in Trastevere is Piazza Trilussa. This is a lively piazza full of young Romans who congregate till the early hours. On any given evening you could witness anything from an impromptu guitar concert, locals crooning old Calabrian tunes from a bygone era, or see some breakout flamenco dancing. Keep an eye out for the regular, and very amusing exploits, of Indian magician “Guarda”. Cheapo tip: There’s a small ice cream parlor just off Piazza v.Pallotti where you can grab a few cold bottles of beer for just €1.50 before heading for the piazza.

Campo de’Fiori

With a host of fun restaurants and wines bars circling the piazza, this is another ideal spot for watching Romans in their natural environment. Come late into the evening and the place has a more lively frenetic energy to it which can border on the chaotic. On occasion, it’s not for the fainthearted. Cheapo tip: Head for La Vineria (Campo de’ Fiori, 15) for a perfect ringside seat and great, inexpensive wine by the glass.

Isola Tiberina

At sundown, the Tiber Island is a fantastic place for an easy stroll and a good bout of people watching. It’s a wonderfully relaxed and laid back environment. There’s an outdoor cinema,  and loads of vendors selling all manner of delicious foods.  Choose from all manner of bars, grab a drink, and then pop a squat on a cozy sofa—or in the case of one bar—a bed! It’s accessible from Ponte Fabricio. Cheapo tip: The cocktails around here can be on the expensive side. Buy a couple of bottles at a local shop beforehand.

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For the donna…

Ride high!

Whether it’s hopping on a motorini or taking on those ancient, cobbled streets, strong and dominant high heels are de rigueur for Roman ladies. Get the look on-the-cheapo: Head for the Piazza dell’Emporio in the Testaccio area. Just a short walk from the Piramide Metro and outside the vegetable market you’ll find stalls packed with great, sexy shoes at bargain prices. Ciao down!

And another thing…

Mini skirts and short shorts for the ladies are deemed declassé and, worse yet, touristy.

For the uomo…

Walk in his shoes.

Not wearing a decent pair of shoes here is considered in extremely bad taste. Also, with such an elaborate array of shoe stores all over the city, and for every budget, there is simply no excuse to be soul-less. Get the look on the cheapo: For good deals and decent prices, check out Mas Allo Statuto (11, Via della Statuto). It’s between Termini station and Piazza Vittorio and has four floors full of choice stuff.

Dress the part.

You will notice that everyone from the street vendor to the taxi driver dresses “up” in Rome. It’s appreciated if you slip on a smart shirt, trousers and shoes. Get the look on the cheapo: A cool shop for guys is the Ivy Oxford on Via due Macelli (near the Spanish Steps). Here you can snag stylish new togs without breaking the bank.

And another thing…

Skinny jeans are pretty much the norm among the young dudes in Rome. Get the look on the cheapo: The easy answer here is H&M. Stores are located at Via Cristoforo Colombo 714, (Rome 00144), on Via Collatina, (Roma Lunghezza 00010) and at 201, Via Alberto Lionello (Roma Bufalotta). Also worth a look for good prices: Benetton. There’s a store on Via Nazionale.

For all man (and woman) kind

Some schmancy knockoff shades; Photo by Sav D’Souza

Proper shading

You’ve gotta have shades in Rome. No matter if it’s overcast or you find yourself indoors unable to see a thing, it’s all about the look. Designer sunglasses and their doppelganger knockoffs are essential for blending in here.  Get the look on the cheapo: Take a stroll along Via Nazionale and you are bound to spy street vendors selling designer shades. Remember these Chanel and Dolce versions lack authenticity, so haggle away until you get a price that’s right.

Good branding

Big name labels and brands are big stuff in Rome. Some of the most frequently encountered are the ubiquitous Lacoste polo shirts, Converse and Adidas trainers, and—that’s right—those flashy name brand sunglasses. These are all considered wardrobe staples. Get the look on the cheapo: The market on Via Sannio (near the San Giovanni Metro station) is a great place to pick up labels at a fraction of their normal cost. Remember, those prepared to haggle will get further reductions.

Snow suit

Even if it seems like a mild day – perhaps even a touch on the warm side – Romans don a coat, scarf and sometimes a chic, woolly hat. Get the look on the cheapo: The area around Castel Sant’Angelo sells scarves and hats at good prices.

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Among other delights, Rome’s San Giovanni neighborhood offers its share of interesting sights, cheap clothing opportunities, and sweet eats. Here’s our guide to a fun day exploring what to see, do, and eat in San Giovanni.

1. Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano

Grab a bargain at San Giovanni’s market.

A must-visit. The basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (Basilica of St. John Lateran), pictured above, is Rome’s only official cathedral, and thus could be considered the “big daddy” of all basilicas. The bishop of Rome (the Pope) counts this as his church, and as a result it ranks higher than other churches in the Roman Catholic Church. The church was originally constructed by Constantine the Great in the fourth century.

Piazza San Giovanni. Open every day 7:00 AM – 6:30 PM

2. San Giovanni Clothing Market

Head for the San Giovanni clothing market to find very cheap new and used clothing. The market features plenty of stalls to pick through. You’re destined to find a bargain or two.

Via Sannio. Open daily, except Sunday. 8:00 AM – 2:00 PM

Tiramisu at Pompi. The best in Rome?

3. Tiramisu stop

Armed with bags of new (and used) clothing, head down the road, near Re di Roma, to Pompi. The restaurant has a reputation for dishing up the best tiramisu in Rome. If you’re not in the mood for layers of cream, chocolate, and cinnamon, you could also sample their gelato, panna cotta, “caffe del nonno,” or just settle for a banana split.

Via Albalonga, 11. Open daily, except Monday 6:30 AM – 1:30 AM.

4. Free Music! If you time it right…

The Cornetto Free Music Concert held every year in Piazza San Giovanni. The Black Eyed Peas, Avril Lavigne, Duran Duran, Beck, Joss Stone, and Jamiroquai have played the event in the past. The festival, sponsored by the Cornetto ice cream empire, is normally held during the summer. Consult their official site for upcoming dates.

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The release of the movie “Angels and Demons” is set to do for Rome what “The Da Vinci Code” did for Paris—bring a lot more Dan Brown fans to town! But while Rome is currently afire with pricey “Angels and Demons”-inspired guided tours, you can visit most of the sights featured in the film for free.

Here are six sights, featured in the film, that are easy to get to and free to visit:

1. The Ecstasy of St. Teresa

This provocative sculpture by Bernini holds court in the Santa Maria della Vittoria church. Works by Bernini are featured prominently in “Angels and Demons,” and throughout Rome, where it’s hard to imagine the cityscape without the indelible mark of the painter, sculptor, and architect.

Where to go: Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. Just off Via Nazionale.

2. Fountain of Four Rivers

The striking and imposing “Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi,” sculpted in 1651 by Bernini, is the setting for a scene in which Dr Langdon (played by Tom Hanks) saves a cardinal from drowning. The fountain is an excellent example of the dramatic flourishes of the “High Baroque” period. Toss a penny in the fountain and make a wish for good luck.

Where to go: The fountain is located in the center of Piazza Navona, in the heart of Rome.

3. Chigi Chapel

The Chigi Chapel was designed by Renaissance painter and architect Raphael, although it was finished in 1520, nearly a hundred years after his death, by Bernini. The chapel is tucked inside the Santa Maria del Popolo church in Piazza del Popolo. The Chigi Chapel houses the famous Chigi pyramidal wall tomb, and the Bernini sculpture “Habakkuk and the Angel,” which factors into Brown’s book.

Where to go: Santa Maria del Popolo church in Piazza del Popolo (Metro Flaminio)

4. Pantheon

The Pantheon, that wonder of ancient architecture, is referred to as the “oldest church in Rome” by Dr. Langdon in “Angels and Demons.” Constructed in 125 AD, the Pantheon was originally dedicated to the worship of all gods, or “pan theos.” In 609, the building was consecrated as a Christian church by Pope Boniface IV. Today, the Pantheon represents the best-preserved ancient building in Rome, and is filled with sculptures, tombs (including Raphael’s), and incredibly-preserved details.

Where to go: Piazza della Rotunda. Open daily, admission free.

5. Ponte and Castel Sant’Angelo

The magnificent Ponte Sant’Angelo (pictured above), constructed in 136 AD by Emperor Hadrian, leads travelers past its Bernini sculptures over the Tiber River and to the Castel Sant’Angelo and Vatican City.

The Castel Sant’Angelo is an imposing sight, and was built by Hadrian as a tomb for himself, his family, and subsequent Emperors. The building has been used for many purposes since, including a fortress, castle, and today, museum. The Castel plays a crucial part in “Angels and Demons.”

Where to go: Take bus #40 from Termini to Castel Sant’Angelo

6. St. Peter’s Square

The dramatic first murder in “Angels and Demons” takes place in St. Peter’s Square, crowded with visitors.

The square, located directly in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, is another of Bernini’s Roman masterpieces, designed to give the faithful a massive gathering space where every visitor could see the Pope and receive his blessing.

The square, replete with colonnade and obelisk, was constructed between 1656 and 1667, and can accommodate more than 300,000 people.

Where to go: Bus 40 or 64, or Metro Ottaviano.

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Don’t want to get trampled by meal costs when in Rome? Read on for my tried, true, and tested cheap eat survival tips.

1) Watch out for package deals.

Stay away from what I call the “slashers”: Anything that touts itself as an all-inclusive “Bar/Restaurant”  or has a menu decreeing that it offers pizza/gelato/pasta.

It’s also best to steer clear of any restaurant that boasts an all-singing/all-dancing agenda. Surcharges here are the norm and food is pretty lackluster.

Lets face it.  If you’re in Italy, you’ve come to experience the good food that the country is renowned for, not some sub-standard chain-like grub where posted food photos aren’t even prepared in a kitchen (many, believe it or not, are microwaved!) Many bar/restaurant places offer only average food and can be quite pricey.

So, here’s the deal: Always look for a “ristorante” or “trattoria.” Likewise, head to a real gelateria for ice cream.  You can sing and dance while you’re there.

2) Be smart about prices. Ask ahead for “house specials.”

Restaurants often tempt diners with “house specialties”… that are often posted on placards without prices. If your dish isn’t on the menu, and you don’t ask about price before ordering, you risk ending up with indigestion when the bill arrives. Also, “market price,” (common for fish and seafood dishes) can mean anything, expensive or cheap, so ask ahead.

This doesn’t only apply to upscale restaurants. Some unscrupulous vendors will charge a pretty piece for the simplest of snacks, like a sandwich and a cola. Others charge a hugely inflated price for bottled water with your meal.

Antica Boheme, on Via Napoli, is a good Trattoria.

3) Be specific about food quantities.

In Rome, you have to be a bit vigilant and assertive when ordering food by the quantity. For example, in many pizzerias, your slice is cut to order. You may only want a small slice, but some vendors (if they recognize you as a tourist) will try to cut off a large slice of pie (which will cost a heavier slice of your budget).

Italians are direct, so speak up if you only want un piccolo.

4) Beware of extras.

In some restaurants (and most with fixed-price menus), you will get charged for a basket of bread. To add insult to injury, the bread might also be stale. Some establishments charge for water, or add on a cost for additional dinner guests or alcohol. Know what you’re paying for ahead of time. And if you don’t care for bread, send it back!

5) Take it away.

To-go prices in Rome are much cheaper than sit-down prices. Sure, sipping a cappuccino while hanging out in a lovely outdoor café is romantic and chic, but it will typically cost three times more than if you order your espresso to go or drink it standing at the bar (as most locals do).

Share your dining tips!

Do you have any tips for saving money on food in Rome? Let us know below!

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Rome, like most European destinations, has some delightful parks. Whether you plan to relax after a day on the town, or spend a free afternoon strolling through gardens, sitting and public—park, the Villa Doria Pamphilj. Named after two noble Italian families, this marvel sits West of the Tiber and just South of Vatican City in residential Monteverde.

At the park’s center is the Villa Vecchia, here since the 1600s. The park itself offers a host of lovely gardens, intricate statues, a grotto, and fountains. A curvy bridge links up the gardens making this an especially popular destination for jogging and walking dogs.

Napoleon’s bust in the Villa Borghese.

Villa Borghese
Via Veneto
(Metro line A to Flaminio)

A sprawling area of land full of everything from quiet, lush green spaces to famous statues and fountains, the Villa Borghese is perhaps Rome’s most well-known park.  The oasis, completed around 1620, is an ideal venue for taking in some rays.

When you’re done sun bathing, you must check out the Borghese Gallery, considered one of the world’s top private art collections. (Keep in mind you need to reserve a ticket before you gallery-gaze. Adult tickets, to the museum and gallery, are €13.50 plus a €2 booking fee. EU citizens, children, and seniors receive a discount.)

Tip: Check out the carriage racing, every May at the Piazza di Siena.

Gianicolo Park
Trastevere (Walk up Via Garibaldi)

The Gianicolo, in picturesque Trastevere, is at the top of Janiculum Hill and offers unbeatable panoramic views of Rome’s sprawl. It’s a bit of a trek up, but if you can make it, pleasant scenery and unique photo-ops await you. Pack a picnic and make a day of it. For more info, grab a map at the Rome Tourism Office. The walk up to Janiculum Hill and its accompanying park are also clearly marked on most any tourist map of Rome.

Pincio Gardens
Piazzale Napoleone I and Viale dell’Obelisco
(Metro line A to Flaminio)

The Pincio gardens overlook the neoclassical Piazza del Popolo. Although Pincio is slightly wild and unkempt, I still love it for its vivid colors, towering trees, and foliage-filled gardens.  The Pincio remains a local and tourist favorite for sunset watching and afternoon reading—and is considered one of the prettiest places in the Eternal City.

Do you have a favorite park in Rome? Or, know of a secret garden somewhere off the beaten path? Share it in the comment section below.

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Campo de’ Fiori: La Vineria

A delightful watering hole overlooking the charming Campo de’ Fiori, the cosy “La Vineria” (photo, above) has a warm and inviting feel that attracts a friendly international crowd. La Vineria offers a good selection of wines, with prices starting at €1.50 for drinks in the bar and €2.50-€3 for drinks outside at a table on the famous square. The bar features a daily selection of wines available to try by the glass.

With good vino and a central address, La Vineria is an easy and enjoyable place to relax (and get a little buzz).

Address: Campo de’ Fiori. 15 Campo de’ Fiori. Tel 06 6880 3268.

1970’s-era football memorabilia at the San Calisto.

Trastevere: Bar San Calisto

The San Calisto, located on the Piazza San Calisto in Trastevere, has character, a bit of a reputation, and feels edgier than your normal Roman bar. The décor inside seems stuck in the 1970’s. Decades-old football posters featuring stars of the past adorn the walls, and the furniture has a retro quality.

The San Calisto is mostly a coffee shop during the day, but in the evening locals (and those in the know) pack inside, enticed by cheap drinks. Becks, Bud, Peroni and gin and tonics are yours for €2-2.50 a pop.

Most guests grab a drink before snagging a seat outside, or wander off into the Piazza Santa Maria.

Trastevere. Piazza San Calisto.

Lots of wine at the Enoteca Cavour.

Near the Forum: Enoteca Cavour

Enoteca Cavour offers an extensive wine and drinks menu, great food, reasonable prices, and friendly service. Whatever your drink of choice, from Earl Grey to a Pilsner Urquell, you can find it, although wine is the main attraction. Glasses start at €3 and bottles at €13.

Happily, we can also recommend the food at Enoteca Cavour. House specialities include the tasty cheese and salami platter, fine salads, and exquisite desserts.

The décor is modern and stylish, yet comfortable. It’s this mix that attracts locals and a smattering of “in the know” tourists.

Via Cavour 313. Tel: 06 678 5496

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Local hot-spot Panificio Firenze, a tasty joint serving as grocery store (alimentari), bakery (panificio) and deli (salumi), has been delighting locals with fresh breads, meats, and cheeses since 1929. At lunch time it’s as busy and chaotic as the trading floor at the stock exchange.

Made to order

Follow these simple steps for Panini perfection:

1) If the place is super busy, pull a ticket from the machine by the front door. Wait for your number to show up on the display overhead.

2) Choose your filling from a range of delicious fresh meats and cheeses on display. Watch as the goods get weighed.

3) Pay a reasonable price for your taste sensation. Enjoy!

Crusty rolls and fresh breads, too!

My personal favorite? The prosciutto and mozzarella on flatbread (focaccia), warmed in the oven for a minute or two… bellissimo! The roasted pork sandwiches served in crusty rolls occasionally make an appearance, and are devilishly tasty, too.

Another great bet is Panificio’s mini pizzas. Just out of the oven, they are divine. Locals like to eat them cut down the middle and folded. The cost for this delight will only set you back €1.50.

A cornucopia of different types of freshly baked bread is always on display. From crusty rolls to sublime focaccia, the panificio (baker) also offers up a good assortment of biscuits and pastries. In addition, Panificio is the perfect place to pop in for picnic provisions like finely sliced Mortadella or Bresola.

It’s easy to walk by…

Know before you go

It can be a little tricky to find, as there isn’t any sign hanging out front. Panificio Firenze is located just off Via Nazionale (Piazza Republica end) at 51-52 Via Firenze, Rome. The closest metro is Republica.

Panificio is open Monday through Friday from 7 AM to 7 PM, on Saturdays until 2 PM, and is closed on Sundays. (Tel: 06-488-5035)

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