Public transportation strikes are extremely common in Rome (there was one just a fortnight ago). They usually get called with a couple of days notice and have the potential to disrupt even the most carefully laid travel plans.

But you can avoid the headaches of “scioperi” (strikes) by keeping an eye out for upcoming strikes and making alternative arrangements to ensure you’re not left stranded and out of pocket.

How to find out about upcoming strikes

There are many websites that announce upcoming strikes in Italy, but not too many that do it in English. The website of your local embassy in Rome is a pretty good place to start. Other options:

• The British Embassy in Rome almost always announces upcoming strikes.

• A couple of other city-specific websites usually have info on upcoming industrial action, including AngloInfo and Wanted in Rome.

If you speak a little Italian, there are several more sources, including:

• The Ministry of Infrastructure and Transport

• The Strikes Commission Website (yes, it really exists)

• For train strikes, see the Ferrovie dello Stato website.

Signs of a strike

If you’re in Rome, keep an eye out for any signs around Metro, bus and tram stops that might signal any upcoming strikes. The information is usually in Italian, and may not be very obvious to the passer by (the signs might only be a couple of A4 pieces of paper taped somewhere). The magic word is “Sciopero” – if you see this written anywhere (accompanied by dates and times) it might be a sign that strike has been called.

Another tip: Ask the receptionist in your hotel. They’ll definitely be able to tell you if any upcoming industrial action. They might also be able to help you arrange alternative transport on the day the strike is planned.

What to do when there is a strike

What you do in the event of a strike really depends on the length of strike, which services will be affected and what are your plans.

Unless the strike is a “general transport strike,” not all services will be out of action. Because of the different types of transport in Rome (and in Italy) it can actually be tricky working out what services will be out of action (e.g. sometimes buses are involved, but not Metro trains. Or Regional trains are frozen, but not the Metro). Private city tour buses will almost never be part of industrial action by city transport workers.

Hours: Strikes can occur on weekdays or weekends. They often go for 24 hours – from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm, then again from 8 pm until the following morning. There is sometimes a break mid-strike to let commuters return home after work.

If you are planning to visit tourist attractions on the day of the strike, then you should travel by public transport before 8:30 am. Although limited bus services sometimes run during strikes, extensive cancellations should always be expected and you should expect to be “stranded” at least between the hours of 8:30 and 5:00 pm.

Wear your walking shoes, take plenty of water, and start your day somewhere within walking distance of Rome’s best attractions (I recommend Colosseum – Metro B).

Getting to the airport during a strike

Rome’s Leonardo Express service between Termini station and Fiumicino Airport often runs as normal, even in the case of general strikes. If you have to catch a plane, and had planned to take the Leonardo Express from Termini to Fiumicino Airport, you might need to catch a taxi from your hotel to get to Termini Station.

If the Leonardo Express is not running, then a private shuttle bus is probably the cheapest alternative. Your hotel or hostel will probably be able to recommend one – but beware – you could still spend €70 or more per person. (One option is: http://www.rome-airport-shuttle.it.)

Remember – your airline (or connecting bus or train company) will probably not care (or refund your ticket) if you miss your connection because of a public transport strike. Inform yourself the second you learn about an upcoming transport strike and begin considering your options.

If you’re in a jam, call your airline or connecting bus or train company and ask their advice as to what to do. They usually have English speaking staff that will be able to help you consider your options and minimize any major disruptions to your travel plans.

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In fact, the weather is usually so good that it’s possible to sit outside with a steaming cup of hot chocolate or mulled wine and watch panicked Romans desperately try to finish their Christmas shopping. Just make sure you pack a warm coat and a scarf (but keep your sunglasses handy).

Here are some more great things to see and do in Rome to get into the holiday mood:

First things first: Take in the Christmas tree at the Colosseum. Photo: Wenzday01

Christmas tree at the Colosseum

An absolute must-see is the enormous Christmas tree currently illuminated in front of the Colosseum. It has been standing tall since early December and adds a fantastic glow to the ancient amphitheater.

Christmas Market in Piazza Navona

The “Mercantino di Natale” (Christmas Market) in Piazza Navona is considered a highlight of the Christmas scene here in Rome. It goes from November 24, 2012 to January 6, 2013, and features market stalls packed with Christmas-related ornaments, goodies and components to create do-it-yourself nativity scenes (“presepi”).

Piazza Navona is especially popular for gifts just before the Epiphany on January 6, which is a religious holiday featuring the Befana, an old witch-type lady who brings gifts to good children and lumps of coal to bad children (Harsh – I know!).

Weekdays: 10:00 am – 1:00 am
Holidays and days before Holidays: 10:00 am – 2:00 am

The Christmas market in Piazza Navona is one of the most visited in Rome. Photo: ianus

Nativity Scenes (“Presepi”)

Nativity scenes are traditionally elaborate in Italian culture, and while Naples is the “home” of the presepi, most Roman churches feature their own presepi during the holiday season. One of the most well-known nativity scenes in Rome is in Santa Maria Maggiore, which dates back to the 13th Century and is said to contain pieces of the original manger.

For people who are really keen on presepi, there is the comprehensive “100 Presepi, a Display of Nativity Scenes from Around the World” exhibition in the Sala del Bramante by Piazza del Popolo (admission charge). Via G. D’Annunzio (Piazza del Popolo)

Of course, a life-size nativity scene is also unveiled every year in St. Peters Square on Christmas Eve (pictured, at top). The presepe is open during the day and night, and is, of course, free.

Attending a mass in St. Peter’s Square. Photo: Trishhhh

Masses in Vatican City

Every year, thousands of visitors from around the globe flock to Saint Peter’s Square on Christmas Eve to watch the Pope on large, outdoor screens say midnight mass in Saint Peter’s Basilica. He also delivers his Christmas message at noon on Christmas Day from a window above the square. Even if you’re not Christian, it is usually a fascinating cultural experience and a definite must if you love people watching.

More Christmas ideas

For more holiday suggestions, check out our previous posts on celebrating the Christmas season in Rome. This post offers some additional markets and details on ice skating in Rome.

Also in our guide: If you’re heading to Rome this holiday season (or anytime, really), be sure to swing by our Rome guide for recommendations on great budget hotels in central Rome.

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Eataly, the world’s largest wine and food market has set up shop in a disused air terminal a short walk from Piramide Metro station (Metro B). There are a couple of other Eataly’s around the world (including one in New York), but the one in Rome (at 170,000 square feet) is by far the largest. It is spread over four generous levels, with 23 different eateries, cooking classes, onsite beer making and 14,000 products (the majority of them Italian) for sale.

Snack your way through Italy

The thing I like most about Eataly is that you can literally spend hours perusing the produce and picking up edible souvenirs. The owners (known for their appreciation for the slow food movement) stock specialty brands of oils and wines and chocolates from remote parts of Italy (including Sicily and Sardinia) that are almost impossible to find in ordinary supermarkets. They also do great fresh bread, seafood and even make their own cheese on site.

While there is no shortage of excellent places to eat in the eternal city, few match the convenience of Eataly’s hub of restaurants. Clustered on the second floor of the ultra-modern building, visitors have a pick of high-quality pizza, pasta, fresh and fried seafood and meat dishes.

Eataly isn’t particularly cheap – a plate of pasta and a drink for €15- 20. However, it’s worth visiting if you want a deeper understanding of Italian foods and ingredients or want an interesting experience in a city celebrated for its food and wine.

Directions

Getting to Eataly is a bit tricky, as it’s a little out of the center of the city. I recommend taking the Metro from Termini (Line B) to Piramide (it’s four stops). From there, head on foot (about 10 minutes) through the underpass that goes directly to Eataly.

Eataly – Air Terminal Ostiense
Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492
Opening time 10 am – 12 am daily
06 90279201
http://www.roma.eataly.it

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While tourists flock to Trastevere and squish into bars around the historical center, Testaccio, which was once famous for its butcher shops, maintains a low-key, friendly buzz that keeps things interesting, but not overwhelming. It could be called the “Notting Hill of Rome.” (Hugh Grant would not be out of place strolling through the wide, leafy streets or shopping for veggies in the weekend produce market!)

Below are just three reasons why it’s worth jumping on the Rome Metro and taking the short trip to one of my favorite parts of Rome.

Shop with the locals at the Testaccio Food Market. Photo: Context Travel

1. Real pubs

While there are lots of pubs in the historical center of Rome, they tend to be of the cookie cutter, “Irish pub” variety. Testaccio breaks this trend, with a selection of atmospheric pubs and locales in an authentic Italian environment (and absolutely no four leaf clovers or Guinness on tap!).

One of my favorites, Enoteca L’Oasi della Birra, boasts 500 different beers from across the globe (including Brazil, Mexico and Israel), as well as good old fashioned Belgium and German brews. They also have an extensive wine menu. L’Oasi della Birra (literally, “beer oasis”) also does an excellent aperitivo buffet – for around €10 you can drink a beer, heap a plate with cold meats, pizzas, cheeses, pastries, and watch the world go by from the outdoor seating area. Heaven!

On The Rox is another popular spot with Romans. Spread across two floors, and with a generous outdoor area, four types of beer are available on tap, as well as bottled brews, cocktail and spirits. Scruffy chandeliers, funky art on the walls, free Wi-Fi and beer pong make it extremely popular with young Romans keen for a pint (or two!) before heading out to the numerous clubs in the area. It’s open late – which also makes it a great place to finish an evening in the Eternal City.

L’Oasi della Birra, Piazza Testaccio, 38/41, Open from 4:30 p.m. Closed Sunday.
On the Rox, Via Galvani, 54, Open 6:00 p.m. to 4:00 a.m. Closed Sunday

2. MACRO – Museum of Modern Art

Visiting Rome and need a break from frescos? Visit MACRO Testaccio and experience the future of the Italian art scene. Not your ordinary art gallery, MACRO Testaccio (Museo d’Arte Contemporanea di Roma) is the hip little sister of MACRO Roma (the main Museum of Modern Art in Rome).

Located in the heart of Testaccio, Macro displays art from the hottest young artists in Italy and Europe.  The current exhibition, “Re-Generation,” is open from now until September 9, 2012, and features contemporary installations and works from some of the most talented young European artists today (including my good friend Luana Perilli!).

MACRO Testaccio, Via Nizza 138 – 00198 Roma. Open from  4:00 p.m. – 12:00 am.

3. Food Market

Essential to any trip to Testaccio is a visit to the central Piazza Testaccio food market.  Since opening its doors nearly 100 years ago, the Testaccio food market has become one of the best markets in Rome – and it’s easy to see why. A quick stroll through the undercover market reveals stalls overflowing with meats, cheeses, fruit, vegetables, seafood as well as clothes and other knick-knacks.  The best part is that its not touristy; this is a living, breathing market where Romans go to pick up fresh produce for authentic Roman dishes.

Roma Farmer’s Market, ex mattatoio-Testaccio padiglione 9. Open Saturday and Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

Also in our guide: If you’re planning a trip to Rome and looking for an affordable hotel, be sure to check out our Rome guide for our editors’ hotel recommendations. We’ve visited and inspected budget hotels all over Rome. Trust us, we’ve been there!

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Want to look like Fonzie from “Happy Days”? The vintage shops in Rome are particularly good for vintage leather goods such as jackets and shoes. Italy is a huge producer of leather goods – so leather handbags and belts are also a good value (although you can pick up new stuff at pretty good prices, too).

Best of all, you’ll only really be competing with other hip tourists like yourself, as Italians don’t tend to trawl vintage shops, preferring new to old.

Here are four great vintage clothing stores in Rome to get you started. Happy hunting!

Second Chance
Via Sardegna, 57
Tel: 06 42 02 08 53
Web site:  www.secondchancebags.com

Just off Via Veneto, Second Chance sells only vintage luxury items – Chanel, Fendi, Yves Saint Laurent, Tiffany and Co., etc. It’s a bit of an undiscovered gem (I recently happened upon it entirely by accident) – an unpretentious shop packed full of really high quality stuff.

Some of the prices will make you swoon, but there are genuine bargains to be had and everything is immaculately preserved (the handbags are in excellent condition). This is high-class vintage, kids.

Cinzia
Via del Governo Vecchio 45
Tel: 06 683 2945

Cinzia’s is where you’ll find a pointy vintage bra from the 1950’s next to a pair of Mexican cowboy boots. Nestled in a cobbled lane a five-minute walk from Piazza Navona, Cinzia’s is lots of fun to browse. You literally never know what you’re going to find wedged between sunglasses and tap dancing shoes.

Afterwards, stroll along to Piazza Navona and celebrate your new (probably unusual) purchase with a couple of scoops of gelato.

Twice
Via di San Francesco a Ripa 105A, Trastevere
Tel: 06 31050610
Web site: www.twicevintage.com

Twice is located in the Trastevere area of Rome, just off Viale Trastevere. Twice sells fun 1960’s and 1970’s dresses, as well as cute vintage designer pieces from labels like Moschino and Prada. The prices aren’t rock bottom – but they’re really reasonable. If you’re in the Trastevere area, it’s worth popping in and checking out what’s new.

Omero & Cecilia – Vestiti Vecchi
Via Del Governo Vecchio
Tel: 06 683 3506

Omero & Cecilia is a curious little shop – it’s so packed with stuff it’s hard to know where to start. The name of the shop “Vestiti Vecchi” literally translates as “old clothes.” This kind of says it all: You’re probably not going to find a vintage Chanel here, but then again, maybe you will.

Omero & Cecilia is located on the same street as Cinzia’s – so you could definitely explore both shops in the same afternoon before cruising along to bar for an aperitivo.

Also in our guide: If you’re headed for Rome any time soon and need a place to stay, check out our recommended budget hotels in Rome (all centrally located, clean and cheap). Remember: If you keep your hotel bill low, you’ll have plenty of euros left over to go on a complete vintage shopping blow-out. Read more in our Rome guide.

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According to the European Union of Vegetarians, around 10% of Italians are vegetarian – the highest percentage in Europe. In Rome, you’ll find meat-free meals almost everywhere. Most pizza-by-the-slice places serve vegetarian-friendly combinations (such as potato and rosemary) for €5 – €10. Rome also has an array of Kebab shops where you can pick up felafels and a quick salad for under €10.

There are a number of vegetarian restaurants located in the city center. Note that the lunch menus are a particularly good value and that not all serve alcohol.

Here are five of the most popular vegetarian restaurants in central Rome:

Fresh and healthy meals at Il Margutta RistorArte. Photo: VeganTraveller

Bibliothè
Via Celsa 5, Rome. Ph: 0667 814 27, Open: Mon-Sat 12:30 – 3:30 p.m., 7:30 p.m. – 11 p.m.

Nestled in a chic cobbled alley off Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Bibliothè is conveniently located near most of Rome’s key tourist attractions (a 5-10 minute walk from the Pantheon, Piazza Navona and the Foro Romano). Bibliothè serves Ayurvedic food, whole grain and organic pasta in a cozy library-inspired environment. Many of the dishes are vegan, and the daily lunch special is popular and inexpensive (cost varies, but it’s usually around €13).

The service can be slow at times (so I’ve been told – but I’ve never had this problem myself) but the atmosphere is chilled-out and fairly unpretentious.

Govindas
Via di Sardegna, 55. Ph: 0668 891 540. Open Tue-Sat 12 – 2 p.m., Fri – Sat 7 p.m. – 10 p.m.
www.harekrsna.it

Govindas is a popular Hare Krishna spot known for low-fuss vegetarian nosh. They are currently in the process of moving to a new location near Via Veneto and will be closed until the start of April 2012 (the restaurant on Via Santa Maria del Pianto is gone). The new spot will be about a ten-minute walk from metro stop Spagna (Line A) or a 15-20 minute walk from Termini.

You can choose between different menus ranging in prices and the food is presented buffet-style. Choose from rice with vegetables and spices, grilled vegetables, bread and desserts. Second helpings are available. Govindas does not serve alcohol.

REWILD Cruelty-Free Club
Via Giovannipoli, Garbatella. 18. Ph: 0697 613 910. Open: from 8 p.m.
www.rewild.it

You’ll need to take the metro out of the center to find this place (Line B – Garbatella), but it’s an interesting spot. Rewild is a vegan pub – so to speak. It serves burgers, hotdogs and beer, but all dishes are vegan. They also put on concerts, films and exhibitions (check their website for information). It’s really cheap and not at all touristy.

To eat here, you need to become a card-carrying member – but don’t worry, it’s free and you can sign up on the spot. They also have menus in English – you just need to ask.

Il Margutta RistorArte
Via Margutta, 118. Ph: 0632 650 577, Open: 12:30 – 3:30 p.m., Dinner from 7 p.m.
www.ilmarguttavegetariano.it

Il Margutta is a Roman institution – more than 32 years and counting. Located north of Piazza di Spagna and minutes from Piazza del Popolo, art lovers will appreciate the trendy art-gallery vibe. The nearest metro stop is Flamino. Dishes get pricey at dinner, but they do a pretty good value brunch menu.

Arancia Blu Cucina Vegetariana con Enoteca
Via Prenestina 396e, Tel: 064454105, Bistrot open from 5 p.m.
www.aranciabluroma.com

If you ask a Roman to recommend a vegetarian restaurant, they’ll probably mention Arancia Blu. It’s not cheap, but the food is delicious and for a light dinner, they do a fixed degustation menu for about €20 (including beer). No list of vegetarian restaurants in Rome would be complete without it. Save it for a night when you’re feeling particularly extravagant.

Also in our guide: Hungry for a great affordable hotel? We’re here to help. Our editors have visited, inspected and reviewed the best inexpensive hotels in Rome, all central, clean and affordable. Read more in our Rome guide.

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