Journeying to Moravia, the eastern half of the country, is an excellent way to do this in the Czech Republic. Here you’ll find beautiful landscapes full of vineyards and fabulous wine towns waiting to be discovered.

Valtice and Lednice

Valtice and Lednice are towns near the border of Austria, which makes them convenient destinations  if you will be visiting Vienna as well. Large chateaus dominate each of the villages. The two towns, along with a lovely park, comprise the Lednice-Valtice Complex, a 200-kilometer area with UNESCO World Heritage distinction. Bikers can explore the area via the excellent marked trails—including one dedicated to grapes—which wind through the vineyards and into the villages.

The Minaret in Lednice.

In Lednice, the gorgeous complex is better preserved and extensive: Members of the Lichtenstein family lived in the English Tudor Neo-Gothic building until the end of World War II. The park, complete with ponds and canals,  is designed for a lovely wander or a leisurely boat ride. And don’t miss the minaret on the other side of the pond. It’s the tallest of this type of structure in a non-Islamist country. The medieval ruin? It’s actually a hunting lodge and was designed to look that way.

Valtice’s chateau is a bit more rundown, and the surroundings aren’t as impressive. It has two special things going for it, though: a brand new herb garden showcasing hundreds of different herbs and their uses and the National Wine Center. Yep, this is wine country, and in the basement of Valtice’s chateau, you can sample each of the country’s 100 best wines (the selection changes annually). Pace yourself, please.

Both towns offer restaurants and accommodation, although Valtice may be the more pleasant of the two towns if you are over-nighting. A local bus will sprint you between the two towns in less than 10 minutes, but take the more exploratory way and walk.

An easy 11-kilometer marked trail will lead you from near the Valtice train station to the center of Lednice. Along the way, you’ll pass the Temple to the Three Graces and St. Hubert Chapel, a Gothic column dedicated to the patron saint of hunting.

Getting there

From Prague, Valtice and Lednice are best reached by train. The journey time is approximately four hours. Visit IDOS, the official transportation site, for more information.

Moravia is famous for its warmth; both in the people and the weather. The wine here is a bit fresher, and the vibe more laid-back than Prague.  Whether you explore Valtice and Lednice on bike or foot, you will encounter a peaceful corner of the Czech Republic and a new appreciation for the country.

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History has it that a castle was founded here in the first half of the 10th century, and thanks to its high rocky location overlooking the Vltava River, enjoyed a period of importance for roughly 50 years. The area is now mostly green space with walking paths and beautiful views of the city, including the more famed Prague castle. Mythologically speaking, Vyšehrad is also the spot where Princess Libuše apparently foretold the future of Prague’s greatness.

Statues in the park

Highlights and landmarks

Strolling through, you’ll spot some interesting landmarks. One of the first will be St. Martin’s Rotunda. Built in the second half of the 11th century, it’s not only the largest rotunda in Prague, but also the city’s oldest complete Romanesque building. There’s been a church at Vyšehrad since the 14th century, but the current one, the Church of St. Peter and Paul, was built in the early 1900s.

Slavin cemetery

Next door is Slavín, Prague’s “pop” cemetery. It was designed in the mid-19th century as a final resting place for Prague’s famous writers, scientists, artists, and the like. Prominent bodies laid to rest here include the writer Karel Capek, artist Alfons Mucha and composers Bedrich Smetana and Antonín Dvorák. The headstones and memorials are quite interesting and it’s definitely worth a wander.

On the south side of the church, you’ll spot a large green expanse dotted with four statues. These depict mythological heroes from Czech history. If you come across three huge granite slabs, take a photo. According to legend, these slabs were thrown through the roof of the church by Lucifer, made angry by an insubordinate cleric. They’re now called the “Devil’s Pillars.”

The view from Vysehrad

Aside from the church and monuments, there are a couple cafes, but more importantly a huge beer garden that is filled with locals, families, and dogs at the weekends. A cool wooden playground makes it a great place to allow kids to run and be free for an afternoon.

How to get there

Vyšehrad is listed in nearly all the guidebooks and there’s easy metro access (the stop is on the red metro line C and is named “Vyšehrad.”) It’s about a 10-minute walk from the metro station.

The views from all sides are amazing; you’ll probably spot from above many of the landmarks you’ve already been to down below. I predict it will be a highlight to your Prague visit.

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Lehká Hlava
Borsov 2, New Town – Prague 1
website

Often listed as a vegetarian fave, “Clear Head”  gets raves from meat eaters as well. As the restaurant leans a bit Mediterranean, you can graze over their eggplant tartar, pasta with tofu or tempeh, or choose one of their decent Mexican items (especially the big burritos). Lehká Hlava has a funky, semi-spacey decor, and reservations are recommended.

Bona Vita
Václavské námestí 43, New Town – Prague 1

Bona Vita is the local health food company that produces a lot of natural and vegetarian foods. Their restaurant is in a passageway off of Wenceslas Square, quite convenient if you’re in the center. Bona Vita’s menu used to be much larger and more exciting; they offered Mexican, Asian, Italian, and more with the front half being with meat; the second half with meat substitutes. Now they only have 2 pages of meatless offerings and prices have gone up a bit. Nonetheless, the food is still tasty.

Country Life
Melantrichova 15, Old Town – Prague 1
website

Another natural and organic restaurant, Country Life is a buffet-style restaurant close to Old Town Square that is popular to say the least. Food is sold by weight, so you pay for what you think you can eat. Hot and cold selections, plus soup, desserts, and free water make this a bargain hunter’s dream. Beware: lunchtime sees the smallish place packed with area business people. Make it an early or late lunch for more assured seating. There’s a decent sized health food store out front; the restaurant is in the courtyard.

Maitrea
Týnská 6, Old Town – Prague 1
website

Lehká Hlava’s not-so-wild cousin is one of the newest veg places in town. The decor is a bit milder, the space bigger, and the menu slightly more affordable. They offer a daily set lunch menu for 108 CZK ($5.90) that includes soup, a main dish, and small water. There’s even a vegetarian version of the traditional Old Bohemian Plate; this time with beets and tofu.

Veg Food
Londýnská 35, Vinohrady – Prague 2
website

Nestled on a residential street, Veg Food is not just a clever name. It is all veg with lots of items using meat substitutes. The spring rolls and sushi are two of the best choices. It’s easy to find something under 100 CZK ($5.45), so it’s also a great budget choice. Only non-alcoholic drinks are served here, and the restaurant is non-smoking. Veg Food offers a great daily lunch special, and the place fills up. Dinnertime, however, is quieter and the staff is very pleasant.

Beas Vegetarian Dhaba
Týnská 19, Old Town – Prague 1
Belehradská 90, Vinohrady – Prague 2
website

This is one of the best Cheapo finds, whether you are vegetarian or not. Beas is a cafeteria-style Indian restaurant with a daily meal that includes your choice of two kinds of subji; two kinds of dhal; two kinds of rice; plus a small salad and cup of soup. The small menu is 88 CZK ($4.80), the large 98 CZK ($5.35). They also have other items you can order separately and there are pitchers of free water on every table.

The Old Town location is a bit smaller, and gets crowded quickly. It’s better in the summer thanks to the large front courtyard. The Prague 2 location is bigger and also has a small outdoor eating area. Beas is a non-smoking restaurant.

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Read on to make sure you’re getting your Czech kroners’ worth!

1. Go at lunch time.

Nearly every traditional Czech restaurant offers a lunch menu with prices usually around 99 CZK. The menu often isn’t translated; however it gives you an excellent, cheap excuse to be adventurous. Sides, like French fries, potatoes, rice etc. usually aren’t included, so be sure to order them separately.

2. Go before (or after) the crowds.

That said, expect packed restaurants at lunch time. Czechs know a good value when they see one, and city center restaurants are usually packed around the noon hour. Plan on a full restaurant (go right at 11 AM, typical opening times for most restaurants, or around 1 PM; the lunch specials usually last until 2 PM) and count on brusque service. If you order from the lunch menu, your food will come fast; if you order off it, you’ll have to wait.

3. Watch your bill.

Legally, a restaurant must tell you if service is included. It’s hit or miss if they actually will. Have a rough idea of what your bill should be ahead of time. An extra beer often finds its way onto unsuspecting tabs.

4. Go easy on tips.

Usually rounding up is enough of a tip; minimum 10-20 CZK. If service is horrid, don’t feel bad about not tipping, and if it’s good, 10% is quite generous.

Your Prague restaurant tips

Have any Prague dining tips, Cheapos? Post a comment to share.

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Here are three of my favorite pubs in central Prague:

U Jindrišské veže
Jindrišská 26, Prague 1

Near Wenceslas Square, “At the Jindrišská Tower” offers plentiful plates of Czech pub grub. Pictures of old Prague line the walls, while outside, the historic Jindrišská Tower looms overhead. Dark wooden tables sassily covered in beer tablecloths fill up quickly for their “smažený sýr,” ” tatarská omácka” (fried cheese with tarter sauce), and “kurecí prsa na žampionech” (chicken breast with mushrooms).

Beer fans take note: They offer tank Gambrinus (tank beer is supposedly the best), plus the well-known Pilsner Urquell and Kozel dark, one of the most popular dark brews.

U Provaznice
Provaznická 3, Prague 1

At the other end of Wenceslas Square, right near one of the Mustek metro entrances, you’ll find U Provaznice (translated as “At the Rope maker’s wife”). Look for the wooden statue near the entrance—legend has it you should touch her breasts for good luck. A small space (keep walking around the bar towards the left for more tables in the back), it’s often packed, but the waiters are usually of the friendly sort.

Go there for their great “vepro, knedlo, zelo” (pork, bread dumplings, and cabbage) or “smažené veprové rízky” (pork schitznel). The low ceilings, brick accents and light wood tables offer a cozy atmosphere.

Lokál
Dlouhá 33, Prague 1

Run by a well-regarded local restaurant group, Lokál is the place to go if you want Czech atmosphere without the traditional ambiance. Confused? This new restaurant, opened in the fall of 2009, recreates the Czech pub experience in a modern way. Here you’ll find a typical pub menu and long wooden tables spruced up with modern lighting and design.

It’s a small menu. Go for some “svícková hovezí pecene na smetane” (beef tenderloin in a cream sauce) or “guláš z hovezí kližky” (beef goulash). Prices are shockingly low for the location and evidence of its upscale nature can be found in its decent wine list and competent service. Close to Old Town Square, Lokál has quickly become a favorite among the locals.

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