Ernesto Guiraldes – EuroCheapo's Budget Travel Blog https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog EuroCheapo editors take on the world of budget travel. Tue, 18 Nov 2025 18:54:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.8.3 Which hotel amenities do you really need? https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/which-hotel-amenities-do-you-really-need.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/which-hotel-amenities-do-you-really-need.html#comments Mon, 05 Aug 2013 18:17:11 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=29688 D’you know who sneaked into my stateroom at three o’clock this morning? …  Nobody, and that’s my complaint! – Groucho Marx, Monkey Business Apparently Groucho was alluding to the lack of some “unclassified” amenity in that film scene. But all jokes aside, travelers often give an exaggerated sense of importance to certain amenities in the » Read more

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D’you know who sneaked into my stateroom at three o’clock this morning? …  Nobody, and that’s my complaint!
– Groucho Marx, Monkey Business

Apparently Groucho was alluding to the lack of some “unclassified” amenity in that film scene. But all jokes aside, travelers often give an exaggerated sense of importance to certain amenities in the hotels they patronize—even if those amenities were not promised in the first place.

Amenities depend on context. In some remote properties in exotic or undeveloped areas, a mosquito-free or even a rat-free environment could be regarded as a desirable amenity. However, in major cities these and other conveniences are taken for granted and regarded as givens, even by undemanding travelers.

Budget-savvy travelers, often well acquainted with the written and unwritten rules of international hospitality, seldom make complaints about the non-presence of amenities, knowing that each additional (non-essential) service renders the property less and less affordable. This is not true, however, for a growing group of more naïve travelers that expects hotel services that are not necessarily essential. According to the accumulating experience of hotel proprietors and staff, these latter travelers’ demands often border on unreasonable.

Many small cheap hotels in Paris, for example, have very basic amenities (if any), and this contributes to their simplicity and affordability. Which amenities are indispensable to me? Provided the basic hotel qualities are met (cleanliness, hygiene, honesty, safety, a civilized environment, reasonable infrastructure, a comfortable bed, etc.), I can do perfectly well without the rest.

The major amenities

Here are many of the major amenities you’ll find listed for most hotels. What do I, as an ultra-cheapo, think of them? Let’s investigate!

Non-smoking premises

No longer an amenity. Looking for—and demanding—a smoke-free environment is no longer a personal preference but a vital health imperative—an individual and social obligation. Nowadays, almost all Parisian hotels are smoke-free, though some of them are known to not fully enforce the regulation, as hinted by the pervasive stench some guests have noticed. Still, some properties keep a few rooms for inveterate smokers (such as the Hotel des Boulevards, nonetheless a Cheapo favorite).

Wi-Fi

The great majority of quality budget hotels in Paris offer free Wi-Fi, in contrast to their luxury counterparts, which usually charge a considerable rate for it. To me, Wi-Fi is one of the most significant amenities—if not the most significant—that a hotel can offer. However, with the numerous Wi-Fi hotspots that Paris offers at the moment, if your hotel doesn’t have it, pas grave! (See the related article on where to find free Wi-Fi in Paris.)

Concierge desk

I find the concierge to be a costly and fully dispensable amenity. In more expensive hotels, the concierge is usually in charge of special services for guests, such as arranging tours or tickets. Undoubtedly, a budget-conscious and knowledgeable traveler in the EuroCheapo vein knows well how to deal with his/her touristic duties. Being street-smart and self-reliant saves you euros! Having said that, a few quality cheap hotels (incredibly enough) do offer concierge services in Paris.

Multilingual staff

A simple French phrasebook or, even better, a functional understanding of the local language may help the frugal traveler deal with everyday hospitality-related interactions. Keeping a multilingual staff is usually costly for a hotel and even more so for a budget sleep; this “amenity” tends to be disproportionately reflected in the final bill. However, as I have remarked before, many of our favorite Cheapo-friendly properties have managed to assemble a multilingual (and very friendly) staff without imposing undue charges on the prudent traveler. Kudos for Le Laumière, de l’Espérance, Paris Villette, Champerret Heliopolis, Perdrix Rouge, Marignan and many others.

TV

Unless you’re a hardcore Tour de France fan and travel to Paris for the exclusive purpose of watching the TV transmission of the famed race, going to one of the most alluring cities in the world and wishing to spend time in front of a TV is something of an incongruity. Still, a substantial proportion of guests at Parisian hotels complain bitterly that there are only French language shows (!).  I personally couldn’t care less for  a TV set in my hotel. And, each year, I am able to follow the whole Tour from the faraway comfort of my own home.

Air conditioning/Ceiling fan

I’ve never been to Paris during the hottest peaks of summer, so the lack of air conditioning in my hotels has never bothered me. The common ceiling fan (or portable fan borrowed from the front desk) usually suffices in case of moderate heat. However, I reckon that trying to sleep in the July-August sweltering heat is an ordeal most travelers from temperate countries are not willing to endure.

Some notable extras

Minibar

Some consider it the quintessential tourist trap. This small snack and beverage bar offers its inventory at generally very high prices (when compared to the equivalent items purchased in grocery stores). A certain type of hotel guest is easily tempted with the minibar. Our EuroCheapo-friendly properties generally have no need to offer one.

Complimentary toiletries

Fully dispensable. I always take mine everywhere I go. Fine as token lightweight souvenirs for the children back home, but not as an additional and unnecessary item on your bill.

Iron/ironing board

Most of my acquaintances have told me they prefer to take their laundry loads to laverie once during their stay, and so do I. If I tried to iron my clothes with a hot iron, my life insurance premiums would rise by several orders of magnitude, so in this entry I save by not using an iron.

Room service

Ninety percent of responders to a recent survey stated that they didn’t care for this feature when booking a hotel. I’m glad to be counted as part of the majority on this item.

Safe/minisafe

A sensible device. I’ve never needed one but many do, and I should consider using it.

Direct-dial phone

I seldom use direct phones in hotels and my impression is that they are becoming less and less indispensable.

Porter/bellhop

No thanks! I can manage…

Hair dryer

A useful device for some. I’ve never  actually needed one, except in one lone occasion in an emergency situation.

Bathrobes/slippers

Very stylish, but no thanks! Another pointless sort of “gift”, which will be eventually reflected in your bill.

Coffee/tea

Maybe… but I will pass and get my coffee from a café!

Your indispensable amenities?

What hotel amenities could you not live without? Leave a comment below.

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Paris: Our “under the radar” list of the 12th arrondissement’s best budget hotels https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-the-best-budget-hotels-in-the-12th-arrondissement.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-the-best-budget-hotels-in-the-12th-arrondissement.html#respond Sat, 01 Jun 2013 15:07:11 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=29349 The upbeat 12th arrondissement of Paris is in a constant process of reinventing itself and today constitutes one of the city’s most modern districts, with several upscale urban renewal projects to its name. A predominantly business and residential district, the 12th was traditionally regarded as one the less touristy quarters of Paris. Today, however, visitors » Read more

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The upbeat 12th arrondissement of Paris is in a constant process of reinventing itself and today constitutes one of the city’s most modern districts, with several upscale urban renewal projects to its name. A predominantly business and residential district, the 12th was traditionally regarded as one the less touristy quarters of Paris. Today, however, visitors are coming to this area in increasingly large numbers for varying, but very good, reasons.

Easy to reach

First, the 12th is home to some very important transit hubs for the Metro, the RER and even the TGV. The busy Gare de Lyon and its annex, Gare de Bercy, as well as the Place de la Nation and the iconic Place de la Bastille all play host to swarms of travelers, commuters and tourists on their way to and from Paris and its many sights.

Great dining 

Second, the emergence of numerous affordable quality hotels and the large number of good restaurants and cafes in the peaceful neighborhood provides visitors with very attractive gastronomic and leisure options. And these are only growing as an increasing number of business travelers choose to stay in the 12th.

No shortage of entertainment

Third, various places of great artistic, “green”, historical, sporting and commercial appeal add some interesting allure to the 12th. For example, the avant-garde Opera Bastille, the Cinémathèque Française in Bercy; the Musée des Arts Forains; the unique combination of the Viaduc des Arts and the Promenade Plantée; le Bois de Vincennes (the largest public park in Paris); the Palais Omnisport de Bercy; the Bassin de L’Arsenal and the cozy shopping center Bercy Village are all in the radar of locals and visitors alike.

Unique shopping options

The arrondissement is also renowned for its specialized commercial quarters that mix modernity with history. These are devoted either to the fabrication or restoration of certain traditional crafts (i.e. furniture at the Faubourg St. Antoine) or to shops selling more contemporary items (i.e. electronics and computer items at Boulevard Diderot and rue de Charenton; hip boutiques at rue de Charonne).

Budget hotel picks

The number of very good affordable hotels in the 12th arrondissement is indeed high and, I believe, deserving of perhaps attention by EuroCheapo’s editors. Here are some of my picks (which I’d encourage the editors to check out for consideration in their guide to cheap hotels in Paris):

For a property of its quality, the Hotel du Printemps' rates are almost impossible to beat.

For a property of its quality, the Hotel du Printemps’ rates are almost impossible to beat.

Hotel du Printemps
80 Boulevard de Picpus
Doubles from €108

Its past guests have justly called Hotel du Printemps “the hotel with the best value around Paris.” How else would you label a hotel “de charme,” with such an outstanding staff; offering comfortable, clean, and nicely decorated rooms; situated in a leafy boulevard near the Metro, RER and numerous restaurants? And all this with prices starting as low as €92 for singles and €108 for doubles?!

Hotels with half of these qualities in Paris typically charge two or three times those prices. Additionally, whenever you need to write to hotels requesting for rate information or reservations, the Printemps is among the first to reply, in a thorough and transparent fashion, along with its neighbor, the Lux Hotel Picpus.

Lux Hotel Picpus
74 Boulevard de Picpus
Doubles from €60

This little gem of a hotel is one of a select group of properties in the city that always ranks at the top of “quality/price” rankings by guests. It provides room service, minibar, ensuite bathroom, hairdryer, safe, free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TV and phone—all in an ultra-clean and charming environment. Additionally, the Lux has one of the most professional staffs of any property in its category.

And would you believe that its rates start at €60 for singles and doubles? Indeed, there’s not a better candidate for the “SuperCheapo” category.

Hotel de la Porte Doree

The Hotel de la Porte Dorée offers nifty décor at prices that don’t sting.

Hotel De La Porte Dorée
273 avenue Daumesnil
Doubles from €126.

Located in the vicinity of the Bois de Vincennes and just outside a Metro stop, the Hotel De La Porte Dorée is rightly celebrated for its comfortable rooms, which are individually decorated, air-conditioned and soundproofed as well as equipped with free Wi-Fi, a flat-screen TV and ensuite bathroom. This tastefully decorated property also has an elevator.

Grand Hotel Doré
201 avenue Daumesnil
Doubles from from €130

Close to Daumesnil Metro station, this is another comfortable property staffed by courteous, friendly and resourceful people and equipped with a lift. Fully renovated, it’s run by one of the oldest families in the Paris hotel business and offers a 24-hour reception and rooms with private bathroom, free Wi-Fi and a satellite TV. Rooms from €130 per night.

Hotel de Reims

The recently renovated Hotel de Reims offers exceptional value.

Hotel de Reims
26 Rue Hector Malot
Doubles from €100

A favorite budget place of travelers who use the busy Gare de Lyon, the quiet, friendly and recently renovated Hôtel de Reims offers all the customary creature comforts and consistently gets laudatory comments by past guests on account of location, service, and staff. A very good value for money, its doubles start at just €100.

Sport Hotel
258 Avenue Daumesnil
Doubles from €111

The Sport is a very sought-after hotel in the Bercy quarter, close to a Metro station. Regularly praised for its location and overall comfort as well as its superb breakfast, cleanliness and peacefulness, and professional (even “fantastic”) staff.

Le Quartier Bercy Square

Le Quartier Bercy Square is a well-priced hotel that offers a convenient location near the Omnisport.

Le Quartier Bercy-Square
33 boulevard de Reuilly
Doubles from €98

A stylish property, close to a Metro station and to the Omnisport, this hotel receives high marks for its comfortable and modern rooms, its helpful and professional staff and its overall tidiness. Double rooms start at €98.

Hotel Bel Air
6 rue de la voûte
Doubles from €135

This comfortable design hotel is also located in the Bercy quarter and within walking distance of the Bois de Vincennes and the Château de Vincennes. Each soundproofed and stylish room is equipped with a flat-screen TV, free Wi-Fi, a safety deposit box and an ensuite bathroom with free toiletries and a hairdryer. In addition, the property has a nice garden and its guests can access a kitchen area with various useful facilities.

Alfa Hotel Nation
12 Rue Guénot
Doubles from €47

This hotel—officially located in the 11th arrondissement but geographically gravitating resolutely towards the Place de la Nation area—is a popular budget sleep in the “SuperCheapo” vein. Located on a quiet residential street, it’s not only cheap but cheerful. All of its rooms are accessed by a lift and have ensuite bathrooms. They are all equipped with free Wi-Fi as well.

Doubles start at the astonishing price of €47 (those with TV are slightly more) and triples at €65! Its faithful clientele commend its excellent value, relaxing atmosphere, cleanness and special deals (for example, a seventh night is offered free to those guests that stay for six nights). And we thought it couldn’t get cheaper!

More hotels to consider

The list doesn’t stop here. Below are several more hotels in the 12th that consistently get high marks:

Hotel Viator
1 Rue Parrot; Doubles from €124

Exceedingly well located, just a five-minute walk from the Gare de Lyon, this clean and comfortable hotel is another find in the area. Guest rooms at the Viator have a private bathroom and are equipped with flat-screen satellite TV and a telephone. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel.

Hotel Palym
4 Rue Emile Gilbert; Doubles from €105

Another good, tidy budget hotel with a prime location near Gare de Lyon. A great value.

Hotel Nouvel
24 Avenue du Bel air; Doubles from €98

A charming and comfortable little hotel near Place de la Nation, the Nouvel has been run by the same family for three generations. Among other nice details, its garden provides a quiet oasis. A real bargain.

Hotel Jules Cesar
52 Avenue Ledru-Rollin; Doubles from €111

This tidy and snug little hotel with soundproofed and air-conditioned rooms, located between Gare de Lyon and Place de la Bastille, offers a solid value.

Hotel Helvetia
28 Boulevard Diderot; Doubles from €80

Yet another convenient budget option near Gare de Lyon, the serviceable Helvetia offers en suite accommodation, an elevator, and rooms equipped with TV and free Wi-Fi.

Hotel Corail
23 Rue de Lyon; Doubles from €95

Praised for its professional staff and low rates, this is another cheap option near the Gare de Lyon.

Hotel Adriatic
6 Bis Rue de Lyon; Doubles from €85

A popular budget hotel in the proximity of the Gare de Lyon and the Place de la Bastille. A solid value.

Do your stay in the 12th?

Do you enjoying staying in Paris’ 12 arrondissement? Tell us why you choose it–and where you choose to stay. Leave a comment below.

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Paris: What makes a budget hotel special? https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-what-makes-a-budget-hotel-special.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-what-makes-a-budget-hotel-special.html#comments Mon, 20 May 2013 15:03:47 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=29141 As my regular readers will have caught on to by now, I’m a huge fan of budget hotels, and specifically those in Paris. I visit them, stay in them and follow their changes (and sadly for some, their transformation into boutique hotels). I see them as a force of good in travel, a way for » Read more

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As my regular readers will have caught on to by now, I’m a huge fan of budget hotels, and specifically those in Paris. I visit them, stay in them and follow their changes (and sadly for some, their transformation into boutique hotels). I see them as a force of good in travel, a way for so many to afford to travel and, in the best cases, experience a local culture up close.

But what are these “best cases”? What characteristics do my favorite hotels share, aside from their relative affordability? Let’s look at what makes a regular old cheap hotel a great budget hotel.

Note that most of the hotels mentioned in this piece are listed in our guide to cheap Paris hotels. Click through to read the full reviews.

Related articles: Also be sure to check out our articles on ways to save on hotels in Paris, and tips for saving on hotels throughout France (including many budget-friendly options that don’t exist inside Paris).

1. Location, location, location

Sometimes it looks as though only those haughty, self-promoting luxury hotels with regal names have the ability to boast a prime Parisian address. Not surprisingly, this is a key factor in defending their prohibitive prices.

Fortunately for us, a good many small and independent Parisian hotels aimed at the frugal traveler have also managed to stick stubbornly to their enticing roots—both in the geographical and the budgetary sense. With enviable locations in the city center (or immediately around it), these prized gems have been applauded countless times in these pages and this surely won’t be the last time we celebrate their presence—either in the Right, or in the Left Bank, or even in between.

“Location, location, location” is my first and most important rule.  The following hotels are well-located and some of my favorites in EuroCheapo’s guide to cheap Paris hotels:

• Near Ile de la Cité: Hotel Esmeralda,  Hotel Henri IV, Hotel-Dieu Hôpital
• Near the Louvre / Grands Boulevards: Hotel TiquetonneHotel du Cygne, Hotel Chopin
• Latin Quarter /  St. Germain Hotel Diana, Hotel Stella, Hotel St. André-des-Arts, Cluny Sorbonne, Hotel de Nesle
• MaraisHotel Rivoli, Grand Hotel du Loiret, and Grand Hotel Jeanne d’Arc

Even the not-so-central Cheapo-friendly properties manage to position themselves in charming, quiet and practical areas, or in trendy districts that are on the rise in the Paris popularity meter.

Hotel Eber Paris

Monsieur Eber, of the Hotel Eber Mars, shows off an antique.

2. Owners

The presence of personable owners is another winning characteristic shared by many of this site’s picks. Often, the same family has owned the hotel for decades. This privileged tenure—and the refined art of a good hospitality—turn the property into your home away from home, the genial proprietors into your special hosts and the hospitable staff into your extended family.

In addition, some dose of “proprietary eccentricity” is not only benignly tolerated but encouraged by the patrons. Some owners are true curators of the attractive objects and antiques that decorate their property, as is the case of Monsieur Éber of the Hotel Éber Mars. The friendly management of the Esmeralda presides over the premises with a slightly amused air. The gregarious owner of the delightful Hotel du Nord oversees his convivial property in the company of his dog Pluto, a house regular. The couple that runs the Saint André-des-Arts has its own group of fans—including us!

Ermitage Sacre Coeur Paris

The Hotel Ermitage Sacre Coeur, located a quick walk from Sacre Coeur Basilica, is classy and affordable.

3. A touch of class

Our favorite hotels have a touch of personality and entice travelers with their stylish touches or quaint charms.

In the Right Bank, the delightful little Hotel Chopin lies at the end of a 19th-century covered passage lined with cute shops.

To the north, in a quiet corner of Montmartre, the Ermitage Sacre Coeur occupies a striking mansion-turned-guesthouse, expertly managed by its resourceful owner.

West of Montmartre, the increasingly trendy Batignolles district is home to the unique sleep Eldorado, where original artwork and antiques mix with flea-market finds in such a natural way that every item seems to have found its natural habitat.

And, in the very improbable case that you haven’t yet heard of the Hotel Tiquetonne, winner of the EuroCheapo award for “Best SuperCheapo,” we can tell you that its amazing central location and exceedingly convenient prices are augmented by a grandmotherly-type air of nostalgia, a candy-colored reception and spacious, vintage-cool rooms.

Hotel Jeanne d'Arc Paris

The Grand Hotel Jeanne d’Arc seems more like a countryside inn than a big-city hotel.

Further east, in the Marais, the neighborhood’s darling hotel—the Grand Hotel Jeanne d’Arc, situated off the tranquil Place du Marché St. Catherine—is a quaint property that looks more like a country house than a downtown prototype. Last but not least, the Hotel du Nord (popular among other reasons because it offers free bicycles) is a little jewel in the 10th arrondissement with artistic touches in the lobby and an ivy-covered and flower-boxed exterior.

In the Left Bank, a distinctive feature of several of our friendliest budget hotels is that they are housed in historic, old buildings with attractive exposed wooden beams. One of them is the old-fashioned and romantic Stella, with big windows that open onto flower boxes. Not far from there, the popular Esmeralda wins over travelers with its 17th-century building, its “dollhouse” interior and its title as EuroCheapo’s “best location in Paris”—not to forget its reasonable rates. The Cluny Sorbonne, across the road from the University of Paris, is truly a reservoir of romantic and bohemian times past and inhabits a lovely 18th-century structure. Just to the north, the charming rooms of the friendly St-Andre-des-Arts go even further back in the past as they are housed in a 16th-century building.

In nearby St-Germain, the cozy Hotel de Nesle—winner of the EuroCheapo’s honor as the “most unique” Parisian low-cost hotel—is a veritable museum with its historically minded murals, individually painted by the owner and her son, and its funky furniture and statues.

4. Staff

The staff at these hotels is characteristically friendly and helpful, but not subservient. As they are an integral part of the owners’ vision, the staff often sees itself as part of the latter’s extended family and hence a partner in the owners’ mission. More often than not, the reception staff is multilingual. Its members are efficient and with enough individuality as to be known by their names by clients, as opposed to the archetypal cipher-type bellboys elsewhere that will bend over backward to take care of your every whim.

Since opinions about the service industry are not the same in some countries as they are in France, a certain segment of the international traveler community (you know them!) wouldn’t be entirely happy with our friends from the cheapo-friendly sleeps, since they expect staff to be by and large submissive. I believe that most of EuroCheapo’s down-to-earth readers would obviously not espouse such a view. They’d feel more comfortable sharing a sassy repartee with a staff member than uttering a machine-gun-like succession of orders.

5. Other details

The official websites of quality budget hotels are often quaint and very matter-of-fact, without too many sleek features. It’s as if the basic intent is to point to the property’s overall practicality and straightforward rates. An artificial gloss would only detract from this.

On these websites, pictures of the rooms are realistic and never presented with beautifying or aggrandizing special effects. Whatever amenities exist are tersely listed. Rates are always shown in a transparent way.

For a shining example, have a look at sites such as those of the Cosmos or Alfa Hotel Nation or the Hotel Rivoli. Every single room category has a fixed price—in sharp contrast with the more pretentious hotels, where it’s often difficult to find a clear indication of their prices on the website. In many of the latter, their rates fluctuate wildly depending not only on the season but also on the day of the week and numerous other factors.

Finally, a very gratifying feature of good budget hotels is that they reply promptly, courteously and thoroughly to reservations and requests for rate information. Their correspondence is transparent and authentic, and they’d almost never send you back to the hotel website (creating a veritable Catch-22), as many of the more expensive or less professional ones often do.

Some of our friendly Cheapo picks will even provide you with a list of alternative properties (i.e. their competitors!) in case they are fully booked. Sometimes the person who replies is none other than the property’s owner. Some of these owners are renowned for their consideration and great zeal in trying to find a solution to your predicament. The charming owner of Le Figuier, an Ivry-sur-Seine hotel, for example, is one of those propriétaires who would take a personal interest in solving your urgent appeal.

What makes your favorite budget hotel special?

Now you’ve read my list of winning hotel characteristics. What do you think makes a budget hotel special… or even “great”? Do you have a go-to spot in Paris? Why do you choose this hotel? Tell us about your favorite hotel, and what makes it stand out for you.

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Paris: 14 excellent budget hotels in the nearby suburbs https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-head-to-the-nearby-suburbs-for-these-14-excellent-cheap-sleeps.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-head-to-the-nearby-suburbs-for-these-14-excellent-cheap-sleeps.html#respond Mon, 13 May 2013 19:13:00 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=28669 Strictly speaking, the suburbs of Paris (“la banlieue”) are those communes that lie beyond Paris “intramuros,” in other words, outside the Peripheral Boulevard, the highway that runs around the city. While the word “banlieue” is meant to be a socially neutral term, the media often use it in a derogatory sense that is inexact and » Read more

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Strictly speaking, the suburbs of Paris (“la banlieue”) are those communes that lie beyond Paris “intramuros,” in other words, outside the Peripheral Boulevard, the highway that runs around the city. While the word “banlieue” is meant to be a socially neutral term, the media often use it in a derogatory sense that is inexact and unfair.

There is a burgeoning hospitality industry going on in some of the suburban communities. Many of these are decidedly non-touristy districts in a state of post-industrial flux, many of them actively transforming into residential and commercial areas. The locations could be frequently characterless, but at least they are safe and fairly quiet.

Why sleep in the suburbs?

In general, property is less expensive in the outskirts than it is in Paris. For this reason, hotel rooms in the suburbs tend not only to be cheaper than their Parisian counterparts, but often a bit more spacious as well.

In la banlieue you’ll find no shortage of convenient and popular B&Bs and small independent properties aimed at the frugal traveler. The branches of some well-known budget hotel chains can also be found in Paris’ suburbs. Many of the these cater to both business and leisure travelers, as well as to large families, for whom sojourning in downtown Paris can be very expensive.

This eclectic mix of budget options is very convenient for those committed Cheapos who wish to experience the countless attractions of Paris without having to pay extra for the privilege of a central location, some useless gadgets, or over-decoration.

Drawbacks

However, it should be noted that while travelers can save substantial sums by staying away from the center of Paris, in some cases their overall transportation costs could eventually become quite high. In addition, the time spent in commuting those extra distances represents a relative inconvenience, and may detract from the overall experience.

Therefore, as we never get tired of repeating, we are thankful to those little hotel gems which, while boasting a prime Parisian location and good general quality, are still able to keep themselves within the beloved Cheapo league, thus allowing their guests to experience the best things of Paris without undue burden or cost — a rare and wonderful achievement.

Budget hotel picks in Seine-St-Denis and Val-de-Marne

I will now review some of the most convenient budget hotels of the Departments of Seine-St-Denis and Val-de-Marne. Together, they cover the eastern inner suburbs of Paris.

Hotel Le Donjon
22, rue Donjon
Vincennes

Very well placed in the pleasant, leafy commune of Vincennes, this charming and cozy property is the virtual king of the quality affordable hotels of Paris’ inner suburbs. It offers a flower-filled courtyard and a historic location, a short walk from the imposing Vincennes castle, Vincennes Park and two Metro (line 1) and one RER stations.

The hotel receives very high marks from previous guests, who always sing the praises of the staff, tidiness and location. Doubles start at €95.

Le Ruisseau
137 Avenue Gallieni
Saint-Mandé

Saint-Mandé is a small “rump” community situated east of Paris, and the home of a popular street market. It looks like a small piece of Paris detached from the mother town and transferred, as if by art of magic, to the east of the Peripheral Boulevard.

Le Ruisseau is a hotel-restaurant located in this gateway to Paris, between the 12th arrondissement and the commune de Vincennes, and close to the Metro (line 1). It offers 35 clean and spacious rooms with en-suite bathrooms also of good size, and free Wi-Fi access. Doubles start at €91.

Le Figuier (“The Fig Tree”)
72, Bd de Brandebourg
Ivry-sur-Seine

Ivry is a resolutely non-touristic area, lying at the very southern gates of Paris. There, Le Figuier is like a cocoon of sophistication, quietness and comfort. This hotel-restaurant is another clear winner and one of those places that seem to leave an indelible imprint on visitors. It offers tastefully decorated rooms with private bathroom, TV, free Wi-Fi access, heating and a fan, at rates starting at just €79.

The property is very close to Ivry-sur-Seine RER Station, which takes the visitor to the center of Paris in a few minutes. Perhaps the strongest asset of this hotel is its owner, a lady that figures prominently in almost every user review as being supremely charming, gentle and helpful.

La Maison Bacana
Vitry-sur-Seine

Its name evokes French and Brazilian influences, which seem perfectly well justified by the winning coexistence of a very professional management and a warm welcome and ambiance. Very few lodgings in the Parisian region can boast the nearly 100% approval rate by its clientele and the degree of wild enthusiasm that this friendly B&B brings about in its guests. Patrons declare that “… they are the best hosts you can ask for” and “go beyond all expectations to help.”

Meanwhile, guests also rave about the spaciousness and cleanness of rooms, and the hotel’s breakfast, atmosphere, decoration… you name it! Indeed, all in all, it’s hard to find a lodging in Paris or around with such high marks. Located in Vitry-sur-Seine, a commune with many similarities with Ivry, the B&B is very close to the Vitry-sur-Seine RER station. (Rooms with private bathrooms, for 2-3 persons at €100, up to 4 persons at €120, up to 5 at €135, up to 6 at €150.)

Ibis Budget
Vitry sur Seine (ex ETAP HOTEL)

Another Vitry property, this suburban branch of the well-known budget hotel chain sits midway between the Orly airport and Porte d’Italie to the south of Paris. It offers basic, clean rooms with flat-screen television, comfort shower and separate toilets rooms at very cheap rates. Doubles at €45-50.

Séjours & Affaires
Paris-Vitry

Also located in the rather nondescript but quiet suburb of Vitry-sur-Seine, this Séjours & Affaires branch is a highly serviceable and inexpensive lodging. It provides studio apartments with free Wi-Fi internet access, flat-screen TV with satellite channels, kitchenette with fridge, microwave, electric stove and coffee maker as well as laundry facilities and luggage storage. It enjoys very positive reviews by users despite the fact of not being close to the Metro or RER public transportation type. Studios at €52-65.

Ibis Budget
Paris Porte d’Italie Est

This property, located near the Kremlin-Bicêtre community immediately south of the Peripheral Boulevard, offers cheap and comfortable rooms. It’s particularly suitable for families. Visitors often praise the helpful and courteous staff. Doubles at €60-65.

Ibis Budget
Paris Porte d’Italie Ouest

Also in Kremlin-Bicêtre and very close to the Peripheral Boulevard, this inexpensive hotel with its clean rooms and friendly staff is another convenient option at the gates of Paris. Doubles at €63.

Mister Bed City
Bagnolet

Located near the Porte de Bagnolet and the Metro station Gallieni, this cheap hotel features comfortable rooms with en suite facilities, TV and telephone as well as heating, (paid) Wi-Fi and parking. The area isn’t exactly a laugh riot but it’s very handy, close to public transport and cafés, restaurants and shops. Doubles from €64.

Campanile Paris Est
Porte de Bagnolet

In close proximity to the Mister Bed City, this budget hotel has comfortable air-conditioned rooms, free Wi-Fi access and satellite TV. Doubles from €72-78, triples at €90.

Ibis Budget
Paris Porte de Bagnolet

Yet another lodging in the Porte de Bagnolet area, this serviceable Ibis property, a truly cheapo hotel, has clean and spacious rooms and bathrooms. Doubles at €48-63, quads at €70.

Adagio Access Paris
Porte de Charenton (ex Citéa)

This pleasant apartment hotel, in a vintage position at the gates of Paris, is based on the southeastern suburb of Charenton, at walking distance from two Metro stations. Its studios and larger apartments are equipped with telephone, satellite TV, free Internet access and a kitchenette with various appliances. The multilingual staff is another bonus. Studios at €70-73, larger apartments (quads) at €103-113.

Villa Bellagio
Villejuif

Located some 3.5 km. south of the Paris limits, in the commune of Villejuif, this hotel offers free underground parking and has a bus station just outside, but is relatively far away from any metro or RER station. Visitors comment favorably on the polite and welcoming staff, the clean and spacious rooms and bathrooms and the availability of a kitchenette. The proximity of Villa Bellagio to some big hospitals of European stature, specialized in Oncology and organ transplantation, is a bonus for families of patients attending those leading Medical Centers. (Doubles start at €79-81, triples at €116 and family suites at €140).

Park & Suites Elegance
Villejuif

This comfortable apartment hotel, located in a quiet neighborhood and close to supermarkets and to a Metro station, gets favorable reviews for its clean and roomy studios with kitchenette, (very convenient for families), free Wi-Fi and efficient housekeeping. “Standard” Studios begin at €99-109 and quads at €130 (promotional rate, breakfast included).

Do you prefer the suburbs?

Have you stayed in Paris’ suburbs? Tell us about your experience in the comments section.

Also in our guide: If you’d like to find something more central, check out our editors’ reviews of cheap hotels in Paris. All of our recommended hotels have been visited, photographed and approved by our team of inspectors.

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Paris: 5 hotels in the 10th and 11th that should be on the Cheapo radar https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-5-hotels-in-the-10th-and-11th-that-should-be-on-the-cheapo-radar.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-5-hotels-in-the-10th-and-11th-that-should-be-on-the-cheapo-radar.html#respond Fri, 03 May 2013 15:37:39 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=27683 A few weeks ago I wrote about some favorite budget hotels in Paris’ less-touristic 19th and 20th arrondissements. These are great small hotels that I believe are too often dismissed by travelers as not central enough for their trips. However, as I pointed out, Paris’ northeast quarter is buzzing these days, and travelers seeking out » Read more

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A few weeks ago I wrote about some favorite budget hotels in Paris’ less-touristic 19th and 20th arrondissements. These are great small hotels that I believe are too often dismissed by travelers as not central enough for their trips. However, as I pointed out, Paris’ northeast quarter is buzzing these days, and travelers seeking out accommodation here are often rewarded with an experience that puts them in closer proximity to the city and its residents than most tourists in central neighborhoods will ever experience.

Today let’s move a bit southwest and examine five hotels in the 10th and 11th arrondissments, neighborhoods which are actually closer to the center of the city. I believe that each of these hotels represents a fine value and should be considered by EuroCheapo’s editors for possible inclusion as “editor’s picks” in the future.

Renovations in the 10th

Two hotels in the 10th have undergone recent refurbishment and are luring guests in with their fine qualities and affordable rates. These include:

The Hotel Garden Saint Martin, situated in the proximity of the Canal Saint-Martin gets very high marks for cleanliness and location, and offers singles at €100 and doubles at €110. (35 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010)

Located a few blocks away from the Garden Saint Martin, the Belta Hotel has also received glowing reviews for its friendly staff, its good continental breakfast and its overall value, with rooms starting at €115. (46 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010)

Meanwhile in the 11th…

 

The Hotel Beaumarchais, located about half way between République and Bastille and near the Eastern edge of the Marais, introduces itself as “The cheapest 3-star funky hotel in the Marais district.” With singles starting at €92 and doubles at €120, the Beaumarchais’ rates are not precisely “cheapo” but are a convenient deal, considering the strategic location, the well-equipped, air-conditioned rooms, the comfortable bathrooms and the presence of an elevator at the premises. The staff has been justly celebrated for its friendliness and helpfulness. (3 Rue Oberkampf, 75011)

Update (August 2015): The Grand Hotel de l’Avenue (see below) has been rechristened the Ibis Paris Avenue de la République, with rates from 63. This is what we had to say about its predecessor:

Housed in a vintage Parisian building, the charming Grand Hotel de l’Avenue, described as a “petit hotel familial,” offers 40 rooms with fully equipped bathrooms, direct phone, TV, and double glass-windows. Its low prices (€72 for a single, €85-88 for a double/twin) attract an eclectic clientele, which has grown more and more enthusiastic over the years. (14 rue Rampon, 75011)

Printania Temple: A Cheapo that deserves a review

A small hotel near the Cirque d’Hiver (11th) has recently been going up in the ratings, given its excellent quality/price ratio and, in the process, baffling the connoisseurs. The Printania Temple, unknown to many, is an example of an extreme “offline” hotel. Without a website or email address, or any possibility of booking through the online methods, the Printania’s popularity is passed by word-of-mouth among its hardcore fans.

This circle of friends—they actually sound like an extended family—consistently praise the owners (especially Raymonde, the patronne), the welcoming staff, the cleanness and comfort of the premises and the low prices. These rates, only mentioned in passing in some reviews, appear to lie in the zone of €55-60 per night.

Whether it’s a concealed candidate for a well-deserved EuroCheapo accolade or it’s just the spinster aunt of other properties near the Place de la République, this intriguing hotel deserves better attention. (16 Boulevard du Temple, 75011. Phone: +33 1 47 00 33 46)

Need more budget hotel suggestions? Look no further than our guide to cheap hotels in Paris, with hotel picks that have been inspected and reviewed by EuroCheapo’s editors.

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Paris: Who wins when budget hotels go boutique? https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-who-wins-when-budget-hotels-go-boutique.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-who-wins-when-budget-hotels-go-boutique.html#respond Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:39:56 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=27893 Legend has it that Oscar Wilde remarked shortly before his death: “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.” The comment pertained to the hotel room where he was staying, which would become his final resting place. These days, the same building houses » Read more

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Legend has it that Oscar Wilde remarked shortly before his death: “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.” The comment pertained to the hotel room where he was staying, which would become his final resting place.

These days, the same building houses a different sort of hotel, not the one with the ugly wallpaper—a squalid place called Hotel L’Alsace—but now a Left Bank darling, a luxury hotel simply named L’Hôtel.

Cheapo picks go from “budget” to “boutique”

In the past few years, Paris has seen several instances of inexpensive hotels closing their doors, being renamed and revamped before finally reopening as full-fledged boutique properties. However, the great majority of them had not been fleabags crying for renewal—or corrective closure—but popular and beloved quality budget hotels.

Hotel Sejour Beaubourg - Hotel Georgette Paris

Things went quickly from budget to boutique when the once cheapo Sejour-Beaubourg (top) transformed itself into the Hotel Georgette (bottom). (Top photo by EuroCheapo, bottom photo from the Hotel Georgette’s website.)

Several properties have followed this course of events and EuroCheapo has mourned the loss of each passing budget hotel. The Lyon Mulhouse—my very favorite Parisian hotel for years—became the Hotel Original; the Séjour Beaubourg is now the Georgette, and the Sévigné in the Marais, was reborn as the Émile.

Hotel Crayon by Elegancia, located in an enviable spot in the shadow of the Louvre, is the former Louvre Forum, now thoroughly refurbished and rechristened, while the modern and sophisticated Design Hotel Sorbonne, in the Left Bank, was the Hotel de la Sorbonne in its past life.

Also, smack dab in the middle of the Latin Quarter, two other exceedingly cheapo-friendly hotels have closed their doors. The former Delhy’s, now defunct and in cheapo-heaven, has been transmogrified into Le Clos de Notre Dame. This three-star newcomer, decorated in a design style, has announced its imminent opening, which will be celebrated with free champagne.

On the other hand, the mythic Les Argonautes, a favorite of budget-conscious bohemians and night owls, closed a couple of years ago and its ultimate fate is a mystery.

Almost all these new boutique hotels are doing very well indeed. Their quite fabulous rooms, the bold decor and excellent service have attracted a different legion of fans. The better for them!

Hotel Lyon Mulhouse Paris Hotel Original

The Hotel Lyon-Mulhouse (top) was a EuroCheapo favorite for years. It transformed itself last year into the much fancier (and pricier) Hotel Original (bottom).

Adieu to a favorite cheap sleep

However, I was shocked and saddened when the Lyon Mulhouse closed. That was a neat, utterly comfortable and welcoming place, which boasted an exceptional location—a short walk from Place de la Bastille and the magnificent Place des Vosges (and within walking distance of most of central and east Paris, either of the left or the right bank). The front staff was incredibly courteous and friendly: Nothing seemed too much trouble for them and they were genuinely helpful. The hotel prices were extremely advantageous. A real gem; one in a million.

To get an idea of what the place was like, here is the groovy description that Theadora Brack, EuroCheapo’s chronicler extraordinaire wrote a couple of years ago (“…so start packing your raccoon coats because the Hôtel Lyon-Mulhouse is the real McCoy…”).

All these losses makes EuroCheapo ever more appreciative of those hotels that resist renovating away all of their charms.

[Where else would a letter carrier from Denver, Colorado on her first European holiday, rub elbows and fraternize with some upbeat musicians from South America, or enterprising college girls from Taiwan get the first taste of the Vie de Bohème by ecstatically listening to the elocutions of a would-be Arthur Rimbaud, in search of inspiration in the university of life that is Paris? Would you picture these disparate characters in anything other than an utterly romantic, charming hotel as the ones described in detail by the EuroCheapo knowledgeable diarists?]

Deconstructing the trend

This rather recent trend of successful boutique hotels being born from the ashes of highly popular and quality budget ones (rather than from discredited and rundown sleeps, of which there are plenty) implicitly generates a couple of perverse—and wrong—corollaries.

The first is that a budget hotel and a boutique-type one are mutually exclusive. What an absurd notion. While both types have their own core constituencies, they can also sometimes overlap. You can at times book a room in some of the bijou hotels for more or less 100 euros, as Lise Charlebois-Ludot has persuasively discussed in her column “Paris: 5 Budget hotels with boutique style“, or for a little more, as in the sleek and comfortable Design Hotel Sorbonne. So, definitely, there is room for everyone in Paris.

The other notion is that the idea of a “deluxe” type hotel is indisputably a modern one, meanwhile dismissing affordable and simple sleeps as outdated and passé.

Really? We all know about the inflated costs typical of several expensive multi-star hotels, where you have to pay extra not only for the utilitarian Wi-Fi but for a myriad of useless gadgets. But, above all, you’ll be overcharged for the added decoration, at times extravagant and overdone, perpetrated by a designer with an inflated ego.

Hotel Les Argonautes Paris

The quirky lounge of the super cheap Hotel Les Argonautes in the heart of the Latin Quarter. The hotel has now closed, its fate uncertain. Photo: EuroCheapo

Consequences of the boutique craze

As a result of all of this, there are fewer decent budget hotels available to budget-conscious tourists. Consequently, we will have to conform to pay more, now for rooms in properties with lesser quality/price ratios than those of our old favorites. In this scenario of spiraling costs, it’s we who pay in the long run, indirectly bearing the costs of the (usually unnecessary) designers’ oeuvre—as well as playing a part in the overall swelling of property values and real estate speculation.

Many of these reforms are made in the name of “modernity.” However, there is nothing remotely avant-garde or modern about the restrictive concept that sees being wealthy as a prerequisite for being able to travel. On the contrary, this is an archaic—and rather offensive—assumption.

Nor is there anything particularly new about paying a fortune for sojourning in a room that recreates the stuffy ambiance of the “Thousand-and-one Nights'” tales. Maybe that’s cute and extremely exotic, but modern? Maybe it was breathtakingly innovative during the Orientalists’ heyday, a century and a half ago…

In today’s world to be truly modern is to empower the cost-conscious and adventurous travelers, especially young people, to reach their varied goals and broaden their horizons. Budget-savvy travel is a mindset, and goes hand in hand with its natural companion: slow travel.

This is a notion that Wilde would have happily espoused. Now, that is a modern concept!

Share your thoughts!

Who do you think wins when hotels go from budget to boutique? Is this trend perfectly normal and, in fact, good for the consumer? Have you been heartbroken by the closure of your favorite budget hotel? Share your thoughts in our comments section below.

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Paris: Popular budget hotels in less touristic neighborhoods https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-popular-budget-hotels-in-less-touristic-neighborhoods.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/paris-popular-budget-hotels-in-less-touristic-neighborhoods.html#comments Fri, 12 Apr 2013 21:14:20 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=27681 Northeast Paris is witnessing an interesting phenomenon. In this multicultural collage of gritty historic neighborhoods, bohemian quarters and more recently, piecemeal gentrification, several independently-run, quality budget hotels are enjoying increased popularity with travelers, thanks mostly to word-of-mouth. While these properties may be too far away from the traditional touristic routes for some tourists, other travelers » Read more

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Northeast Paris is witnessing an interesting phenomenon. In this multicultural collage of gritty historic neighborhoods, bohemian quarters and more recently, piecemeal gentrification, several independently-run, quality budget hotels are enjoying increased popularity with travelers, thanks mostly to word-of-mouth.

While these properties may be too far away from the traditional touristic routes for some tourists, other travelers (mainly practical and independent souls) do purposely seek out a sojourn in a quiet and safe neighborhood, and a sleep undisturbed by the droves of tourists and night owls that literally take over some prime downtown locations.

Staying in the 19th or the 20th means, in other words, being as far away as possible from the rue Cler and the crowds that overflow these and other quarters!

As you may have read, I enjoy keeping my eye on Paris’ budget hotel scene. Below are six hotels in less touristic neighborhoods not yet chosen by EuroCheapo’s editors as “picks” that I think deserve consideration.

Hotel Nadaud
8 Rue de la Bidassoa

One of the most notable up-and-coming hotels in the 20th arrondissement is the Hotel Nadaud. Seasoned travelers rave about the exceptionally welcoming staff, pristine rooms, convenient location and affordable prices. After her sojourn in this hospitable and ultra-serviceable hotel one patron wrote: “I had not been to Paris since many years and this visit even changed my opinion of the Parisians.” A laudable feat for the Nadaud! Doubles from €65.

Hotel de la Perdrix Rouge

The Hotel de la Perdrix Rouge is another pick near the Parc de Bellville.

Hotel Paris Villette
56 Rue Curial

Located in the 19th, the Hotel Paris Villette has seen its popularity skyrocket, with its clientele routinely praising the friendly and multilingual staff, the neatness of the rooms, the quiet neighborhood and the excellent quality/price ratio. With singles starting at €58, doubles at €65 and triples at €70, this property would be a worthwhile candidate for EuroCheapo’s “Classic Cheapo” category.

Abricotel
15 Rue Lally Tollendal

A group of convenient and unpretentious budget hotels dot the northeast of the city. The Abricotel, also located in the 19th, has recently been renovated and offers rooms all equipped with a salle de bain, as well as a 24-hour front desk, direct telephone and Wi-Fi at prices starting as low as €55.

Hotel de la Perdrix Rouge
5 Rue Lassus

Currently riding a wave of popularity, the Hotel de la Perdrix Rouge (“Hotel of the Red Partridge”), another 19th arrondissement sleep, lies in the vicinity of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont and the Parc de Belleville. Guests commend the quietness of the quarter, the hotel’s cleanliness, value for money, proximity to the Metro and the decent breakfast. The reasonable rates (€86 for a single and €93- €103 for a double) have earned it quite a bit of attention.

Hotel Crimée
188 Rue De Crimée

The Hotel Crimée was refurbished not long ago and, as a result, earned a third star. However, it didn’t let it go to its head. Indeed, with nightly rates starting at €85 (singles) and €95 (doubles), the property has amassed a well-merited reputation among budget-savvy travelers. It offers free Wi-Fi, an Internet station in the lobby and air-conditioned rooms. The Crimée is located in the 19th arrondissement not far from the Parc de la Villette and about 50 yards from a Metro station. Guests praise the clean and functional rooms, the comfortable bedding, the friendly staff and especially the excellent quality/price ratio.

Hotel du Moulin
3 Rue Aristide Bruant

Finally, in the 18th, the Hotel du Moulin is quite popular among fans of the Montmartre area, who praise its spotless rooms, good location and convenient rates (singles from €100, doubles from €110).

More options

Stay tuned for more hotel suggestions that should be up for consideration by EuroCheapo’s editors. Next week I’ll jump down to the 10th and 11th arrondissements. Of course, for many more hotel recommendations, visit EuroCheapo’s guide to cheap hotels in Paris.

Your favorite hotels in Paris

Do you enjoy staying in the 19th and 20th arrondissements? Tell us about your experiences and favorite hotels in our comments section.

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Religious Accommodations in Rome and Paris: Comparing convent-ional cheap sleeps https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/religious-accommodations-in-rome-and-paris-some-convent-ional-cheap-sleeps.html https://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/religious-accommodations-in-rome-and-paris-some-convent-ional-cheap-sleeps.html#comments Fri, 05 Apr 2013 15:55:33 +0000 http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/?p=27360 A few weeks ago, cardinal Jorge Mario Bergoglio checked in at the Domus Internationalis Paulus VI, a clerics’ hotel in Rome, before the launching of the secret electoral conclave that would lead to the Papal election. A few days later, now the new Pope, Padre Bergoglio religiously paid his bill while checking out. The final » Read more

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A few weeks ago, cardinal Jorge Mario Bergoglio checked in at the Domus Internationalis Paulus VI, a clerics’ hotel in Rome, before the launching of the secret electoral conclave that would lead to the Papal election. A few days later, now the new Pope, Padre Bergoglio religiously paid his bill while checking out.

The final price averaged about €60 per night, an amount that was in keeping with Bergoglio’s reputation for frugality and his attachment to an austere life.

The event was widely reported by the world press and motivated participants in several travel forums to comment on how convenient and economic that lodging sounded, and to wonder if the residence was available to “lay” travelers. Of course it was not, as was promptly disclosed to the general disappointment of many prospective budget-conscious travelers.

However, there are dozens of other properties of the same type in Rome that do take lay tourists, in contrast to the rank-selective Domus Internationalis.

Rome’s religious pied-à-terres

Rome is one of the great cities of religious pilgrimage in the world. The presence of the Papacy in Rome, plus the magnificent Church-related patrimony of the ancient city, attracts swarms of travelers every year. Many of these tourists come for faith-based reasons, either for religious tourism proper or religious “business.”

The Vatican’s numerous “dicasteries” (ministries) and their networks of offices, as well as the headquarters of dozens of Catholic congregations are scattered all over the city. This means that each and every ecclesiastical traveler, from the humblest green seminarian and junior novice nun to the über-VIP visiting cardinals, must have a suitable kind of lodging as his/her Roman pied-à-terre.

All of these reasons help to explain why Rome is filled with “Case per Ferie:” residences run by religious orders, offering affordable accommodation.

My experience in Rome could not have been better. Several years ago, advised by a Jesuit friend who happens to come from my home town (a combination that guarantees sure wisdom), I stayed at the Istituto Santa Giuliana Falconieri, located in Rome’s historical center, a mere steps from Piazza Navona and close to everything.

Suore di Santa Elisabetta Rome

The Suore di S Elisabetta in Rome offers spic-and-span doubles for €64. Photo: EuroCheapo

The place was extremely welcoming and the price, consistent with a “classic cheapo.” The room was somehow Spartan but spacious and cozy (a winning combination) with an en-suite bathroom. The ample buffet-type continental breakfast was included in the price. The curfew was at midnight, which was okay with me. The sisters, whose superior hailed from the U.S., were extremely friendly. They did their best to talk to me in English, and I duly reciprocated, by digging out my best self-taught Italian (none of them our native languages).

My sojourn there was memorable, but, alas! some of the best things in life do not last and this friendly and convenient convent-cum-pension closed not long ago.

Remaining Roman options

A few options for religious accommodations in Rome can be found in EuroCheapo’s Rome guide. These include the Suore di Santa Elisabetta (run by friendly nuns near Santa Maria Maggiore) and the Casa per Ferie Santa Maria Alle Fornace (a former convent near St. Peter’s).

Religious accommodation in Paris?

Paris, however, does not have this reputation for religious pilgrimage. Despite the many unique monuments dedicated to religion and revered by tourists, the hordes that descend on the city throughout the year are mainly those who come to take part in fashion weeks. These travelers take their duties with a fervor bordering on the religious, but are centered on a practical and materialistic vision.

This goes in keeping with a city that, while boasting an ancient Catholic tradition, has become the Mecca of international tourism and of the fashion world, while also being a paragon of secularism. On the other hand, the Italian capital, with its baroque sensuousness, has served as the catwalk of the surrealist-like religious fashion show orchestrated by film director Federico Fellini in his eccentric and appropriately titled “Rome.”

Again, the weight of the church is felt here even in the most mundane events (or is it vice versa?).

Holy nights in Paris

A traveler recently wrote in a forum: “Unlike Rome, Paris is not exactly overflowing with half empty convents with rooms to rent at a reasonable price.” While some religious guesthouses in the French capital welcome individuals or groups that come to Paris to conduct a process of prayer and pilgrimage (e.g. “Ephrem Guesthouse”, la Maison d’accueil de la Basilique du Sacré-Cœur), the dearth of religious institutions offering lodging for general travelers is noticeable.

Recently the Auberge Adveniat, a residence affiliated to a religious group, has opened in the 8th arrondissement. It is obvious that in this type of accommodation there should be a curfew and that the hotel will have to do its best to keep at bay night owls, party animals and girls in fishnets. Therefore, this new residence enforces some strict regulations. Prices are indeed very cheap: Singles start at €36-46, and doubles at €30 per person.

Another religious house, Maison Eymard, also in the 8th, is available exclusively to members of the “Association Maison Eymard.” However, you can pay the membership (€7) when you arrive. Prices are €36 for a single and €60 for a double, with breakfast included. Some restrictions apply (e.g. no smoking, no reception during the weekend, minimum stay: 5 days).

A great lodging, which is not precisely a religious house but has a lot of associations with the Church, is the Hôtel-Dieu Hôpital. There is not a better position for an accommodation in Paris than this hotel located within a hospital—the Hôtel Dieu—and next to the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, on the Île de la Cité. The striking proximity to this illustrious building, the hospital’s centuries-long relation with the Church (hence its very name), and the fact that the profits are handed over to charity make this affordable hotel the closest thing to a religious residence in central Paris. As a bonus you can wake to the chimes of the bells of Notre-Dame and have your breakfast in your room. Needless to say, this is a coveted location for tourists. It charges a reasonable €139 for one person and €150 for two.

Not far from there, the Hotel Saint Merry is a beautiful property, sporting a vintage Gothic facade and an enviable location in the Marais. Nowadays, the Merry is a genuine three-star hotel, although this building has more than tenuous connections with the church, as it used to be the parish house of the Saint-Merry church.

Your favorite religious sleeps?

Have you stayed in religious accommodations when visiting Paris or Rome? Tell us about your experience in the comments section!

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